Stus-List C 25 MARK 1

2016-01-25 Thread Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List
owned c 25 mk1 one of the first back in jan 1973  purchased from c
sales in bronte oakville show room...raced it very succesfully on lake
ontario that summer then in late sept  left for south  ...thru oswego canal
 erie canal hudson river to atlantic  sailed coast to florida ...ft
lauderdale...was approached by c sales at fla. dock  ,,,offered by c
much larger custom built bruckmann yacht.,  the c in house custom
builder,..took the dealdelivered 25 to ryder  fla yacht sales ..sad
parting  but beginning of a life time adventurethey had firm offer for
my 25 from person who we raced against in his c designed 27ftmust say
of 6 yachts i have sailed   the mk1 25  was best performer  ,best
 fun boat, one of best built,,,would have loved to keep both but could
not...tried to buy it years later,.but owner not interested25 mk1 best
boat i ever ownedbuilt by hinterholler mfg in n on lake  the standard
production line of c in feb 1973this model  began production mid 1972
 & sales slow until 1973..yacht designed by in house design with very close
direction ..by both georges,cuthbertson...   second owner of my 25
 won more than it share of races over the years .jimmy  c design
 redline 41 mk1  #1of two built..  currently.southern british  columbia
canada
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

2016-01-25 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Doug

Most new sails will be priced in US dollars.  That will make a RF 125 cost 
approximately $1,000,000 CAD.

Persistence is a Frers 33 which is very similar to the CC33-2.  For RF we have 
a 100% pentex with taffeta both sides and an older square weave dacron 155 
which seems a bit blown out.  When not doing much with the boat we leave the 
100 on the furler.  It is underpowered for most conditions.  When racing we 
take the sails off the furler and use our Kevlar 155, 140 and the RF 100 (no on 
furler).

If I were to have one goto furling sail it would be a 135.

We sail in Nova Scotia.  Winds sound similar

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 5:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

Thanks all for your input. To answer some of your questions. The boat does have 
a furler. Most of the time it will be my wife and I, we both crew on friends 
boats for racing. I have several Susan Hoods and LO300s under my belt including 
the big wind year. Generally on Lake on Ontario we get 15-25 Kn in the spring 
and late fall, 10-15 in June and July and 5-10 in August and Sept. The boat 
came with a 120 and 135 in decent shape, so i will probably mess about with 
those next season before pulling the trigger on a new sail.

Cheers,
Doug

On Sunday, January 24, 2016 12:54 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
> wrote:

We're on Lake Huron with our 33 Mk II. We have  a 155, a 130, and a 95. The 155 
is great for those quiet summer days, the 130 in spring and fall and only used 
the 95 once late last fall for the single handed challenge. I'd suggest a 130 
for cruising, if you're only going to have one. You didn't mention whether or 
not you had a furler. I've seen many partially furl their large Genoa in 
heavier winds.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C 33 Mk II

I'd rather be sailing


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Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller

2016-01-25 Thread Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Thanks to everyone for the responses re my tiller.  And thank you Stu for 
checking in.  All is well here, except I haven't been able to get out to my 
boat to try anyone's suggestions!  The roads here in Brooklyn are a mess.  


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List DC distribution panels

2016-01-25 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Not sure what your panel looks like, but it can look good to just get a blank 
sheet black starboard or delrin and mount the Blue Sea onto that. 

That ‘s what I did, looks great. They make great stuff.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of erik 
hillenmeyer via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 7:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: erik hillenmeyer
Subject: Stus-List DC distribution panels

 

Does anyone know where to get replacement DC circuit breaker panel that are the 
same dimensions as the original panel (1984 C 35-3).  The originals are 8 
position panels that measure 9" H x 5" W.  I can't find anything online that 
are these dimensions.  Even 8 position panels from blue sea are much shorter, 
although they look like a great match.

 

Erik

C 35-3

Slapshot

Chicago

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Are you talking about the cover panels that you remove to get at bolts?

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
sthoma20--- via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a
bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what
it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
boats, including whether or not there were options available.

Steve Thomas
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

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Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread sthoma20--- via CnC-List
The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a 
bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what it 
is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what materials 
were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar boats, 
including whether or not there were options available.

Steve Thomas
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 120, Issue 80

2016-01-25 Thread Harald Braun via CnC-List
I have bought a line lifter for my Barrient 27 from Australia fairly reasonable.

Harald
Spirit 35 mk3

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
  Original Message
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 120, Issue 80


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Barient 28ST on EBay (Joel Aronson)
   2. Re:  Toerail mounted stanchion bases (John and Sue Fletcher)
   3.  C Spinnaker Pole Lift install (Alex Wolfe)
   4. Re:  Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size
  (dwight veinot)
   5. Re:  Toerail mounted stanchion bases (dwight veinot)
   6. Re:  Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size
  (Robert Boyer)
   7. Re:  C Spinnaker Pole Lift install (dwight veinot)
   8. Re:  Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size (Hoyt, Mike)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2016 11:59:24 -0500
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay
Message-ID:
<cael16p_3h+8krbv6ys_jjgl-d+ql8msg2tqy4w9mi2p5l8_...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Petar,

Barient parts:

http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares

not cheap or fast!

Bacon Sails has a few parts on the shelf.  not sure which size winch they
fit.  They are probably closed today due to the snow, but give Gavin a call.

(Taught sailing out of Stanley's as a kid)

Joel
Annapolis

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of those, I had broken off the tailing part many years ago on one
> of my 28ST.
>
> Does anyone have any idea on how to go about replacement that does not
> involve purchasing a pair of ST winches of the same size.   Cause I fear
> after investing 800$ to get a used replacement, I can see myself in the
> same predicament after few years.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley?s in Barrington, RI.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:31 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman
> *Subject:* Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/151961260637?item=151961260637==mtr
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2016 13:25:04 -0500
From: "John and Sue Fletcher" <jfletche...@cogeco.ca>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases
Message-ID: <D676D56131EB49B8A9B6BE989C3C251D@fletcherHP>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I moved mine on our 33-1 nine years ago and was very happy.  That three inches 
makes a huge difference.  The bases i used also angled the stanchions a little 
outboard which gives you a much more open feel swinging past the shrouds and 
moving around on the foredeck.  Be aware the life lines will likely be too 
short mine were but I knew that going in and since it was time to upgrade them 
anyway it allowed me to relocate the stanchions to put the gates where I wanted 
them.  I do have to be a little careful docking on fingers with vertical posts  
as it is possible to hook a stanchion on a post if wind and waves are alligned

John

Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

2016-01-25 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
Well Mike Hoyt, I sail in Nova Scotia too, St. Margaret's Bay mostly good
winds, 15-25 apparent from SW most days and I have a RF Doyle 135%
crosscut, 8 oz with tuff luff, high cut and if or when I ever buy another
new head sail for Allianna, my old 35 MKII, I will definitely be going for
less than 135%; in fact a good 110 is what I think would suit me just
fine...there are a lot of advantages to a smaller headsail, and IMHO very
few for a larger LP headsail if one is just out for a fun sail in such
conditions as we mostly have around here in summer/fall, cruising for fun
in retirement I mean but for racing I would be lost without a 150 when the
apparent drops below about 15 kts, I know that, but who cares, it's sort of
nice some days to roll a similarly rated boated to weather while sailing
single handed when that other boat is overpowered and wondering why Alianna
is so fast...on a 33 II, a very stiff boat, maybe a 135 would be a good all
purpose sail but the crew, husband and wife for example will have to work
harder and I bet one of them would likely wish for a smaller headsail most
of the time

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Doug
>
>
>
> Most new sails will be priced in US dollars.  That will make a RF 125 cost
> approximately $1,000,000 CAD.
>
>
>
> Persistence is a Frers 33 which is very similar to the CC33-2.  For RF we
> have a 100% pentex with taffeta both sides and an older square weave dacron
> 155 which seems a bit blown out.  When not doing much with the boat we
> leave the 100 on the furler.  It is underpowered for most conditions.  When
> racing we take the sails off the furler and use our Kevlar 155, 140 and the
> RF 100 (no on furler).
>
>
>
> If I were to have one goto furling sail it would be a 135.
>
>
>
> We sail in Nova Scotia.  Winds sound similar
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Doug
> Welch via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2016 5:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* doug.we...@rogers.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size
>
>
>
> Thanks all for your input. To answer some of your questions. The boat does
> have a furler. Most of the time it will be my wife and I, we both crew on
> friends boats for racing. I have several Susan Hoods and LO300s under my
> belt including the big wind year. Generally on Lake on Ontario we get 15-25
> Kn in the spring and late fall, 10-15 in June and July and 5-10 in August
> and Sept. The boat came with a 120 and 135 in decent shape, so i will
> probably mess about with those next season before pulling the trigger on a
> new sail.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
> On Sunday, January 24, 2016 12:54 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> We're on Lake Huron with our 33 Mk II. We have  a 155, a 130, and a 95.
> The 155 is great for those quiet summer days, the 130 in spring and fall
> and only used the 95 once late last fall for the single handed challenge.
> I'd suggest a 130 for cruising, if you're only going to have one. You
> didn't mention whether or not you had a furler. I've seen many partially
> furl their large Genoa in heavier winds.
>
> Brad
>
> "Pulse" 1985 C 33 Mk II
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

2016-01-25 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
I recently bought new sails for my LF 38 for on the Chesapeake and in the 
Bahamas and I went with a 135 and plan on furling it on the roller furler at 
times when I want to reduce sail area.  I do not race my boat.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Jan 25, 2016, at 3:19 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well Mike Hoyt, I sail in Nova Scotia too, St. Margaret's Bay mostly good 
> winds, 15-25 apparent from SW most days and I have a RF Doyle 135% crosscut, 
> 8 oz with tuff luff, high cut and if or when I ever buy another new head sail 
> for Allianna, my old 35 MKII, I will definitely be going for less than 135%; 
> in fact a good 110 is what I think would suit me just fine...there are a lot 
> of advantages to a smaller headsail, and IMHO very few for a larger LP 
> headsail if one is just out for a fun sail in such conditions as we mostly 
> have around here in summer/fall, cruising for fun in retirement I mean but 
> for racing I would be lost without a 150 when the apparent drops below about 
> 15 kts, I know that, but who cares, it's sort of nice some days to roll a 
> similarly rated boated to weather while sailing single handed when that other 
> boat is overpowered and wondering why Alianna is so fast...on a 33 II, a very 
> stiff boat, maybe a 135 would be a good all purpose sail but the crew, 
> husband and wife for example will have to work harder and I bet one of them 
> would likely wish for a smaller headsail most of the time
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Doug
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Most new sails will be priced in US dollars.  That will make a RF 125 cost 
>> approximately $1,000,000 CAD.  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Persistence is a Frers 33 which is very similar to the CC33-2.  For RF we 
>> have a 100% pentex with taffeta both sides and an older square weave dacron 
>> 155 which seems a bit blown out.  When not doing much with the boat we leave 
>> the 100 on the furler.  It is underpowered for most conditions.  When racing 
>> we take the sails off the furler and use our Kevlar 155, 140 and the RF 100 
>> (no on furler). 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> If I were to have one goto furling sail it would be a 135. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We sail in Nova Scotia.  Winds sound similar
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
>> Welch via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 5:16 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks all for your input. To answer some of your questions. The boat does 
>> have a furler. Most of the time it will be my wife and I, we both crew on 
>> friends boats for racing. I have several Susan Hoods and LO300s under my 
>> belt including the big wind year. Generally on Lake on Ontario we get 15-25 
>> Kn in the spring and late fall, 10-15 in June and July and 5-10 in August 
>> and Sept. The boat came with a 120 and 135 in decent shape, so i will 
>> probably mess about with those next season before pulling the trigger on a 
>> new sail.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Doug
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Sunday, January 24, 2016 12:54 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We're on Lake Huron with our 33 Mk II. We have  a 155, a 130, and a 95. The 
>> 155 is great for those quiet summer days, the 130 in spring and fall and 
>> only used the 95 once late last fall for the single handed challenge. I'd 
>> suggest a 130 for cruising, if you're only going to have one. You didn't 
>> mention whether or not you had a furler. I've seen many partially furl their 
>> large Genoa in heavier winds.
>> 
>> Brad
>> 
>> "Pulse" 1985 C 33 Mk II
>> 
>> 
>> I'd rather be sailing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
On my 83 35/3 they were 1/8 plywood covered with a vinyl textured wallpaper
that matched the color of the fiberglass.  Some folks have used various
plastics as replacements.

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 10:41 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes.
>
>  Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:
> > Are you talking about the cover panels that you remove to get at bolts?
> >
> > Bill Coleman
> > C 39 Erie, PA
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> > sthoma20--- via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 9:22 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> > Subject: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels
> >
> > The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which
> is a
> > bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is
> what
> > it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
> > materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
> > boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> >
> > Steve Thomas
> > C MKI
> > Merritt Island, FL
> >
> > C MKIII
> > Port Stanley, ON
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> > of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Steve,

I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt access panels on Touche'
with plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or so thick, smooth on
one side and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and was easy to cut
and finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat heads.

I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and record
the stock number.  It's really nice stuff.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is
> a bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is
> what it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
>
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

2016-01-25 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
too much work and expense for very little gain, but if you like it do it

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 12:05 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and
> was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the
> toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be
> screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case
> said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru
> your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My
> toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this
> sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and
> MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
> Barbara L. Hickson
> "Flight Risk" C 33-1
> Chas., SC.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

2016-01-25 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
Check out the way it's done on some other boats, really you can get by with
just a ring on the mast for the inboard end of the pole...you will need to
rig a pole topping lift and also have a block on the deck for the downhaul
and separate winches for the sheets (guys)...i loved my triradial spinnaker
when I had my C 24, made Bathsheba really slippery (fast) downwind and
really nice for longer legs...just go looking around until you see
something that might work for you, then play around and find the gear you
need...sounds like this might be your first go with a kite so get some
experienced hands on board to help if you can

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 3:26 PM, Alex Wolfe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello CNC 24 owners and other experts,
>
> I am going to rig the hardware necessary to fly the chute which came with the 
> boat. What I don't have is a fitting on the mast to accommodate a shackle for 
> the pole topping lift, a ring or track and car, nor a foreguy/downhaul pad 
> eye.  I am not sure what  fitting and mounting procedure would be best, 
> especially for the topping lift fitting.  I am a little reluctant about 
> drilling into the mast.
>
>
> Your help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex Wolfe
> C 24 Shaka
> Miami, FL
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

2016-01-25 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Dwight

Yup I believe you. St Margaret’s Bay is a windy area compared with rest of the 
province.  Likely windier than most areas in Lake Ontario region as well

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 4:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

Well Mike Hoyt, I sail in Nova Scotia too, St. Margaret's Bay mostly good 
winds, 15-25 apparent from SW most days and I have a RF Doyle 135% crosscut, 8 
oz with tuff luff, high cut and if or when I ever buy another new head sail for 
Allianna, my old 35 MKII, I will definitely be going for less than 135%; in 
fact a good 110 is what I think would suit me just fine...there are a lot of 
advantages to a smaller headsail, and IMHO very few for a larger LP headsail if 
one is just out for a fun sail in such conditions as we mostly have around here 
in summer/fall, cruising for fun in retirement I mean but for racing I would be 
lost without a 150 when the apparent drops below about 15 kts, I know that, but 
who cares, it's sort of nice some days to roll a similarly rated boated to 
weather while sailing single handed when that other boat is overpowered and 
wondering why Alianna is so fast...on a 33 II, a very stiff boat, maybe a 135 
would be a good all purpose sail but the crew, husband and wife for example 
will have to work harder and I bet one of them would likely wish for a smaller 
headsail most of the time

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Doug

Most new sails will be priced in US dollars.  That will make a RF 125 cost 
approximately $1,000,000 CAD.

Persistence is a Frers 33 which is very similar to the CC33-2.  For RF we have 
a 100% pentex with taffeta both sides and an older square weave dacron 155 
which seems a bit blown out.  When not doing much with the boat we leave the 
100 on the furler.  It is underpowered for most conditions.  When racing we 
take the sails off the furler and use our Kevlar 155, 140 and the RF 100 (no on 
furler).

If I were to have one goto furling sail it would be a 135.

We sail in Nova Scotia.  Winds sound similar

Mike

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Doug Welch via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 5:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

Thanks all for your input. To answer some of your questions. The boat does have 
a furler. Most of the time it will be my wife and I, we both crew on friends 
boats for racing. I have several Susan Hoods and LO300s under my belt including 
the big wind year. Generally on Lake on Ontario we get 15-25 Kn in the spring 
and late fall, 10-15 in June and July and 5-10 in August and Sept. The boat 
came with a 120 and 135 in decent shape, so i will probably mess about with 
those next season before pulling the trigger on a new sail.

Cheers,
Doug

On Sunday, January 24, 2016 12:54 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
> wrote:

We're on Lake Huron with our 33 Mk II. We have  a 155, a 130, and a 95. The 155 
is great for those quiet summer days, the 130 in spring and fall and only used 
the 95 once late last fall for the single handed challenge. I'd suggest a 130 
for cruising, if you're only going to have one. You didn't mention whether or 
not you had a furler. I've seen many partially furl their large Genoa in 
heavier winds.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C 33 Mk II
I'd rather be sailing


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Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

2016-01-25 Thread Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px 
#715FFA solid !important;  padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white 
!important; }  I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather 
stabilizes and was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to 
mount on the toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases 
would be screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the 
case said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru 
your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My 
toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this 
sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and MAYBE 
get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. 
Barbara L. Hickson "Flight Risk" C 33-1Chas., SC. ___

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Mine were a discoloured white plastic, and I don't think looked all that
good from the get-go.
I replaced them all with and Ivory White Grained Naugahyde, using a double
sided 3M tape. Just pulled it taught, Pressed it on real good, and I think
it looks better than before. If I have to remove them, I will just pull if
down and add new tape.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
sthoma20--- via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

Yes.

 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Are you talking about the cover panels that you remove to get at bolts?
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> sthoma20--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 9:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> Subject: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels
> 
> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is
a
> bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is
what
> it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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bottom
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> ___
> 
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bottom of page at:
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> 


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Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

2016-01-25 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151961260637?item=151961260637 
 
==mtr

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1 

 

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread sthoma20--- via CnC-List
Yes.

 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Are you talking about the cover panels that you remove to get at bolts?
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> sthoma20--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 9:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> Subject: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels
> 
> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a
> bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what
> it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


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Re: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

2016-01-25 Thread Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
Speaking of those, I had broken off the tailing part many years ago on one of 
my 28ST.  

Does anyone have any idea on how to go about replacement that does not involve 
purchasing a pair of ST winches of the same size.   Cause I fear after 
investing 800$ to get a used replacement, I can see myself in the same 
predicament after few years. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington, RI. 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151961260637?item=151961260637 
 
==mtr

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA  

 

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Re: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

2016-01-25 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Petar,

Barient parts:

http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares

not cheap or fast!

Bacon Sails has a few parts on the shelf.  not sure which size winch they
fit.  They are probably closed today due to the snow, but give Gavin a call.

(Taught sailing out of Stanley's as a kid)

Joel
Annapolis

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of those, I had broken off the tailing part many years ago on one
> of my 28ST.
>
> Does anyone have any idea on how to go about replacement that does not
> involve purchasing a pair of ST winches of the same size.   Cause I fear
> after investing 800$ to get a used replacement, I can see myself in the
> same predicament after few years.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington, RI.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:31 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman
> *Subject:* Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/151961260637?item=151961260637==mtr
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

2016-01-25 Thread David Paine via CnC-List
wow, $800 each seems steep.   I bought a set of two Barrient two speed self
tailing model 21-33  winches (plus a complete helm) that came off a wrecked
person 33 for $300.   BTW, I know I have the model number because it's
inscribed on the top of the winch but I can't find the service manual
anywhere (including cncphotalbum) -- any ideas?

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of those, I had broken off the tailing part many years ago on one
> of my 28ST.
>
> Does anyone have any idea on how to go about replacement that does not
> involve purchasing a pair of ST winches of the same size.   Cause I fear
> after investing 800$ to get a used replacement, I can see myself in the
> same predicament after few years.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington, RI.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:31 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman
> *Subject:* Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/151961260637?item=151961260637==mtr
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
On my 1980 30, they are 1/8 white plastic of some variety.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

 

On my 83 35/3 they were 1/8 plywood covered with a vinyl textured wallpaper 
that matched the color of the fiberglass.  Some folks have used various 
plastics as replacements.

 

Joel

35/3

The Office

Annapolis

 

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 10:41 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Yes.





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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

2016-01-25 Thread John and Sue Fletcher via CnC-List
I moved mine on our 33-1 nine years ago and was very happy.  That three inches 
makes a huge difference.  The bases i used also angled the stanchions a little 
outboard which gives you a much more open feel swinging past the shrouds and 
moving around on the foredeck.  Be aware the life lines will likely be too 
short mine were but I knew that going in and since it was time to upgrade them 
anyway it allowed me to relocate the stanchions to put the gates where I wanted 
them.  I do have to be a little careful docking on fingers with vertical posts  
as it is possible to hook a stanchion on a post if wind and waves are alligned

John Fletcher  CnC 33-1  Peregrine  

From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:05 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your 
rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My toerail 
holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this sounds like 
a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and MAYBE get a 
better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. 
Barbara L. Hickson 
"Flight Risk" C 33-1
Chas., SC. 



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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I have been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com for a couple years
now.  Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a link to a
plastics selector pack, () which contains
several different samples of plastics.  I'm not excited about paying $57
for a sample pack which may or may not include what I want.

I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small piece to
mcmaster to see if they can match it.

It's really good stuff and has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen
several posts which could be answered with a link to this material.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was
> similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth
> on the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF
> 38 and used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up.
> Semi-industrial look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior
> white so the matching is pretty close.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt access panels on Touche'
> with plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or so thick, smooth on
> one side and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and was easy to cut
> and finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat heads.
>
> I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and record
> the stock number.  It's really nice stuff.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is
>> a bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is
>> what it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
>> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
>> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C MKI
>> Merritt Island, FL
>>
>> C MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

2016-01-25 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
Alex,

I own a C 25 and had slowly been acquiring the poles and pieces to fly the 
used symmetric spinnaker I bought several years back.While having a padeye 
on deck for your downhaul may be ideal, I found it easier to use a block 
shackled to the mast step on deck and lead the downhaul to it and back to the 
cockpit.  I do find having a track for the spinnaker pole to be important, 
mostly because I also have a whisker pole for the Genoa for cruising class 
racing or casual shorthanded sailing and the inboard pole height is very 
different (lower) for a 150 genoa that it is for my spinnaker.  

At the end of the day, unless you are doing a heck of a lot of dead downwind 
sailing specifically for racing, you may be better served with buying a used 
asymmetric spinnaker that will use a masthead halyard and no other specialized 
poles, fittings or hardware that require more holes in decks and masts 
(generally not the best thing for 30+ year old boats anyway).  Since you’d 
rarely fly an A-Sail along with your Jib, it would also eliminate the need for 
a second set of cockpit winches and the sail would be much easier to deploy 
when shorthanded which means you would use it more.

Best regards,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 mk1

 

Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Wolfe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Wolfe 
Subject: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

 

Hello CNC 24 owners and other experts,
I am going to rig the hardware necessary to fly the chute which came with the 
boat. What I don't have is a fitting on the mast to accommodate a shackle for 
the pole topping lift, a ring or track and car, nor a foreguy/downhaul pad eye. 
 I am not sure what  fitting and mounting procedure would be best, especially 
for the topping lift fitting.  I am a little reluctant about drilling into the 
mast. 
 
Your help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Alex Wolfe

C 24 Shaka

Miami, FL

 

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
Steve,

Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was 
similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth on 
the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 and 
used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. Semi-industrial 
look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior white so the 
matching is pretty close.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt access panels on Touche' with 
> plastic sheet from mcmaster.com .  It was 1/8 or so 
> thick, smooth on one side and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and 
> was easy to cut and finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 
> flat heads.
> 
> I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and record the 
> stock number.  It's really nice stuff. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a 
> bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what 
> it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what 
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar 
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
I use TAP Plastics for similar materials.  As a bonus they stock the Latitude 
38 magazine and hand them out for free.

TAP will cut or drill the materials they sell for an additional charge.  I have 
run through some big project for our production shop where the set-up costs 
were amortized over a quarter quantity and found the cost reasonable.  For a 
small piece it seems high.

TAP also sells epoxy and polyester based resins and fillers.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 1:06 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

I have been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com 
for a couple years now.  Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a 
link to a plastics selector pack, () which 
contains several different samples of plastics.  I'm not excited about paying 
$57 for a sample pack which may or may not include what I want.
I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small piece to mcmaster 
to see if they can match it.
It's really good stuff and has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several 
posts which could be answered with a link to this material.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Steve,

Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was 
similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth on 
the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 and 
used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. Semi-industrial 
look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior white so the 
matching is pretty close.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size

2016-01-25 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
Anywhere around here Mike, there are lots more advantages to a smaller
headsail like a 110 versus a 135, especially a RF sail, for anything
but racing and I would never start a race on my boat with and RF 135,
however if racing a good heavy wind 150 is a must have sail...a light
air 150 has it's times uses but not that often, I have both of which
neitehr are roller furling, old sails but in great condition, I hardly
ever have them on board, last time was about 10 years ago...generally
speaking for short handed cruising and for a roller furling headsail
on any 1970's / 80's C design I would recommend something less than
a 135% headsail unless I was sailing in predominantly light air
venues, under 15 apparent mostly...that said I seldom sail without my
main sail and if sailing with only one sail in heavy air I choose the
main simply because it is more comfortable sailing with less heel and
more control, tacking is a breeze, same for jibing...Alianna can get
up to 6 kts COG at 35 degrees to apparent wind upwind on main alone on
many days here in St. Margaret's...I have an almost new 135% but most
times I wish it were a 110...recommendation for you, race on Dave's
boat, set yours up for comfortable cruising...yes I know the frers 33
has a high speed potential, considered the design very seriously
before I purchased Alianna, sorry but I am glad I went with the C
design, something about lead keels I like and the solid construction
of the old C 's built in the 70"s back when Big George was doing the
designs and marine carpenters were actually building interiors with
teak really appealed to me...different stokes for different folks i
guess
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 4:32 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Dwight
>
>
>
> Yup I believe you. St Margaret’s Bay is a windy area compared with rest of
> the province.  Likely windier than most areas in Lake Ontario region as well
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 4:20 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: dwight veinot
>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size
>
>
>
> Well Mike Hoyt, I sail in Nova Scotia too, St. Margaret's Bay mostly good
> winds, 15-25 apparent from SW most days and I have a RF Doyle 135% crosscut,
> 8 oz with tuff luff, high cut and if or when I ever buy another new head
> sail for Allianna, my old 35 MKII, I will definitely be going for less than
> 135%; in fact a good 110 is what I think would suit me just fine...there are
> a lot of advantages to a smaller headsail, and IMHO very few for a larger LP
> headsail if one is just out for a fun sail in such conditions as we mostly
> have around here in summer/fall, cruising for fun in retirement I mean but
> for racing I would be lost without a 150 when the apparent drops below about
> 15 kts, I know that, but who cares, it's sort of nice some days to roll a
> similarly rated boated to weather while sailing single handed when that
> other boat is overpowered and wondering why Alianna is so fast...on a 33 II,
> a very stiff boat, maybe a 135 would be a good all purpose sail but the
> crew, husband and wife for example will have to work harder and I bet one of
> them would likely wish for a smaller headsail most of the time
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>
> Doug
>
>
>
> Most new sails will be priced in US dollars.  That will make a RF 125 cost
> approximately $1,000,000 CAD.
>
>
>
> Persistence is a Frers 33 which is very similar to the CC33-2.  For RF we
> have a 100% pentex with taffeta both sides and an older square weave dacron
> 155 which seems a bit blown out.  When not doing much with the boat we leave
> the 100 on the furler.  It is underpowered for most conditions.  When racing
> we take the sails off the furler and use our Kevlar 155, 140 and the RF 100
> (no on furler).
>
>
>
> If I were to have one goto furling sail it would be a 135.
>
>
>
> We sail in Nova Scotia.  Winds sound similar
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
> Welch via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 5:16 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation on 33 mkii Genoa size
>
>
>
> Thanks all for your input. To answer some of your questions. The boat does
> have a furler. Most of the time it will be my wife and I, we both crew on
> friends boats for racing. I have several Susan Hoods and LO300s under my
> belt including the big wind year. Generally on Lake on Ontario we get 15-25
> Kn in the spring and late fall, 10-15 in June and July and 5-10 in August
> and Sept. The 

Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

2016-01-25 Thread Alex Wolfe via CnC-List
Hello CNC 24 owners and other experts,I am going to rig the hardware necessary 
to fly the chute which came with the boat. What I don't have is a fitting on 
the mast to accommodate a shackle for the pole topping lift, a ring or track 
and car, nor a foreguy/downhaul pad eye.  I am not sure what  fitting and 
mounting procedure would be best, especially for the topping lift fitting.  I 
am a little reluctant about drilling into the mast. 
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
 Thanks,
Alex WolfeC 24 ShakaMiami, FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Ahmet via CnC-List
Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of
the transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge
pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these
> forums work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some
> typing?
>
> I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.
> It should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a
> Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I just bought one last August and love it.
> A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
> What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
> things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
> Ahmet
> 1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
> Winthrop, MA
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as
>> well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if
>> anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about
>> her development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't
>> been able to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would
>> appreciate to know a little of her backstory.
>>
>> Thanks a million,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Welcome to the list. There are several owners of 25s on here so you should
be able to get advice and answers to your questions pretty easily. I've
owned my 25 mk1 since 1994, and although I know I should find someone else
to love it and lavish attention on it, I just can't seem to find it in
myself to part with it.

 

Based on your HIN, your boat is hull number 526. And the 0976 date code
would make it a 1977 model.

 

The boat was designed by Cuthbertson & Cassian (C) who were successful
designers of boats before C Yachts was organized to build boats.
Hinterhoeller was one of the manufacturers who built C designs before C
Yachts was organized (and even after). 

 

You can find some information on your boat ( and links to more) at
Sailboatdata.com: http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=611

 

Because you have found the cnc-list (AKA Stu's List), I am presuming that
you have also found the C Photo Album website at
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ . You will find a huge amount of technical
information, DIY project information, photos, history, and more at that site
thanks to Stu. Among other things you can search the list archive to find
past posts about a given subject.

 

And, BTW, it is more or less customary (but not universal) to sign your
posts with information about your boat and where you are located. Sometimes
the answer to a question can vary depending on where you sail and how you
use the boat. And frequently owners in your area will chime in with offers
for assistance or to let you see how their boats are set up if they are in
your area.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Hello,

 

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these
forums work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some
typing?

 

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri
25 so I appreciate the feedback. 

 

Thanks,

 

Mark


On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List  > wrote:

I just bought one last August and love it.  

A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.

What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. 

Ahmet

1973 C 25 "Tabasco"

Winthrop, MA

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
 > wrote:

Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as
well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if
anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about
her development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't
been able to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate
to know a little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Thanks Rick.  I really appreciate it.  I'll definitely dive more into the 
Cncphotobum.

Mark McMenamy
Icicle C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:43 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Welcome to the list. There are several owners of 25s on here so you should be 
able to get advice and answers to your questions pretty easily. I've owned my 
25 mk1 since 1994, and although I know I should find someone else to love it 
and lavish attention on it, I just can't seem to find it in myself to part with 
it.

Based on your HIN, your boat is hull number 526. And the 0976 date code would 
make it a 1977 model.

The boat was designed by Cuthbertson & Cassian (C) who were successful 
designers of boats before C Yachts was organized to build boats. 
Hinterhoeller was one of the manufacturers who built C designs before C 
Yachts was organized (and even after).

You can find some information on your boat ( and links to more) at 
Sailboatdata.com: 
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=611

Because you have found the cnc-list (AKA Stu's List), I am presuming that you 
have also found the C Photo Album website at http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ . 
You will find a huge amount of technical information, DIY project information, 
photos, history, and more at that site thanks to Stu. Among other things you 
can search the list archive to find past posts about a given subject.

And, BTW, it is more or less customary (but not universal) to sign your posts 
with information about your boat and where you are located. Sometimes the 
answer to a question can vary depending on where you sail and how you use the 
boat. And frequently owners in your area will chime in with offers for 
assistance or to let you see how their boats are set up if they are in your 
area.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Ahmet via CnC-List
Ok, I asked because I had a HIM on the aft starboard transom, and then a
separate C plaque on the inside transom, port side.
Having the self-tailing winches and new sails is great.
I am sure you will enjoy sailing her
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
WInthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 8:54 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Ahmet,
>
> I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also
> has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.
>
> That's all I have for a HIN.
>
> Mark
>
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
> New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of
> the transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
> I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge
> pump.
> I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing
> winches.
> I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
> Ahmet
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these
>> forums work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some
>> typing?
>>
>> I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.
>> It should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a
>> Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I just bought one last August and love it.
>> A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
>> What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
>> things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
>> Ahmet
>> 1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
>> Winthrop, MA
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I
>>> as well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if
>>> anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about
>>> her development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't
>>> been able to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would
>>> appreciate to know a little of her backstory.
>>>
>>> Thanks a million,
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
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Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.  

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

2016-01-25 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used the 
type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At the time I 
think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the $450 you 
mentioned.

 

I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on each of 
the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long enough to 
handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and drill an 
additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to deck joint 
(which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer for backing and 
a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe rail for the (#10, 
IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the stanchion. All told, it took 
about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and it is a 2 man job to install the 
bolts through the hull to deck joint.

 

My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old lifelines in 
the new installation, but YMMV.

 

I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:

 

It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – even 
though it is only about 5 inches on each side.

The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are vertical  
but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that they thought 
the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which I believe was a 
problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the early 80s).

On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the rail, 
so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft and 
drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.

And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than the 
deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the locations 
where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in the gelcoat, 
but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with resulting leaks into 
the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my projects for this coming 
season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots left behind by the old 
bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect to see any future deck 
repairs; at least in those areas.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your 
rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My toerail 
holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this sounds like 
a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and MAYBE get a 
better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. 
Barbara L. Hickson 

"Flight Risk" C 33-1

Chas., SC. 

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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Ahmet via CnC-List
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as
> well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if
> anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about
> her development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't
> been able to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would
> appreciate to know a little of her backstory.
>
> Thanks a million,
>
> Mark
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

2016-01-25 Thread Ahmet via CnC-List
I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on
putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.
I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut
under the deck.
It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on
the aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.
In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room,
and solid.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used
> the type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At
> the time I think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the
> $450 you mentioned.
>
>
>
> I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on
> each of the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long
> enough to handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and
> drill an additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to
> deck joint (which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer
> for backing and a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe
> rail for the (#10, IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the
> stanchion. All told, it took about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and
> it is a 2 man job to install the bolts through the hull to deck joint.
>
>
>
> My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old
> lifelines in the new installation, but YMMV.
>
>
>
> I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:
>
>
>
> It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward –
> even though it is only about 5 inches on each side.
>
> The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are
> vertical  but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that
> they thought the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which
> I believe was a problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the
> early 80s).
>
> On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the
> rail, so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft
> and drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.
>
> And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than
> the deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the
> locations where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in
> the gelcoat, but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with
> resulting leaks into the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my
> projects for this coming season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots
> left behind by the old bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect
> to see any future deck repairs; at least in those areas.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Barbara
> Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Barbara Hickson Fellers 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases
>
>
>
> I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and
> was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the
> toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be
> screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case
> said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru
> your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My
> toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this
> sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and
> MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
> Barbara L. Hickson
>
> "Flight Risk" C 33-1
>
> Chas., SC.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

2016-01-25 Thread Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

2016-01-25 Thread svpegasus38






I replaced my panels with varnished African mahogany 1/4" plywood. Used 
brass screws to hold them up. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Jan 25, 
2016 13:07To: CnClist;Cc: Dennis C.;Subject:Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner 
Panels
I have been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com for a couple years now. 
 Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a link to a plastics 
selector pack, () which contains several 
different samples of plastics.  I'm not excited about paying $57 for a sample 
pack which may or may not include what I want.

I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small piece to mcmaster 
to see if they can match it.

It's really good stuff and has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several 
posts which could be answered with a link to this material.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Steve,
Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was 
similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth on 
the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 and 
used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. Semi-industrial 
look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior white so the 
matching is pretty close.
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
Steve,

I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt access panels on Touche' with 
plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or so thick, smooth on one side 
and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and was easy to cut and finish.  
I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat heads.

I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and record the 
stock number.  It's really nice stuff. 

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a 
bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what it 
is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what materials 
were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar boats, 
including whether or not there were options available.

Steve Thomas
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

2016-01-25 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Alex;

 

The list of stuff you say you need implies that you already have a spinnaker, a 
spin halyard, and a spin pole. Is that correct?

 

Normally a boat with the halyard (which means a mast crane and a block above 
the headstay as well) and pole would already have the padeye for the topping 
lift and the padeye for the downhaul. If you have just the halyard and the 
spinnaker, is there a chance the PO got an asymmetrical spinnaker for the boat? 
For an A-sail – especially when cruising - you really don’t need the other 
stuff.

 

My 25 has a fixed ring on the front of the mast, which is pretty adequate for 
double duty with both spin and whisker poles. The ring is mounted on a curves 
plate and attached to the mast with 4 machine screws tapped into the mast. I 
think they are ¼-20 but they may be fine thread to have less chance of 
stripping the holes in the mast.

 

I have external halyard and topping lift. The spin halyard is lead back to a 
cabin top #10 winch. The topping lift comes down to a cleat on the side of the 
mast.

 

The padeye for my toping lift is held on with 2 machine screws tapped into the 
mast. There is really not much load on the topping lift, just the weight of the 
pole – maybe 30 pounds? The load from controlling the height of the spinnaker 
is all on the downhaul, so proper installation of the padeye on the foredeck is 
important.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Wolfe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Wolfe 
Subject: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

 

Hello CNC 24 owners and other experts,
I am going to rig the hardware necessary to fly the chute which came with the 
boat. What I don't have is a fitting on the mast to accommodate a shackle for 
the pole topping lift, a ring or track and car, nor a foreguy/downhaul pad eye. 
 I am not sure what  fitting and mounting procedure would be best, especially 
for the topping lift fitting.  I am a little reluctant about drilling into the 
mast. 
 
Your help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Alex Wolfe

C 24 Shaka

Miami, FL

 

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