Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread robert via CnC-List

Fred:
 I got a new Doyle 135%  8.3 oz dacron.I specifically ordered a 
foam luff.the sail maker, whom I know personally, ignored my request 
and left out the foam luff.said the sail would work fine with out 
it.  If I didn't like it he would take the sail back and put it on.


Do I miss it, no.can I furl the sail down to 100% - 110%..no 
problem at all.


Just my experience!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.




On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 11:30 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38,
and would like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra
$$$ for a foam luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on
furling, knowing that regardless of the foam luff (or not), a
furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.

Thoughts?

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI   :^(




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Re: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt

2016-03-19 Thread Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
There is an email address in the last line on the page.

 

I used to race against Gerry back in the ‘70s when I was a teenager, he is a 
great sailor and a tough competitor.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
airdale143--- via CnC-List
Sent: March-17-16 21:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: airdale...@juno.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt

 

How does one contact Gerry?

-- Original Message --
From: Stu via CnC-List 
To: "C Email List" 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2016 10:26:22 -0500

Gerry Giles has just completed his conversion of a C Mega to what he calls a 
“Mega Putt Putt”.

 

This is not the first time a Mega has been converted – in fact we are still 
looking for the original.

 

See what Gerry has done at:  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/other/mega_putt_putt/ 

 

 

Stu

  

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4542/11838 - Release Date: 03/18/16




  
nowbuzzing
You Won’t Believe These Moments Caught on Camera
  
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/56eb49f96ee2249f91e67st03duc

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Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Gary Russell via CnC-List
 Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never
got a chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers
overstating the length of their designs, why did C understate the length
of their 37+"?  I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not
use the LOA like almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
Maybe you already read this but:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

I had to search it because I had not heard of varnishing over epoxy before.
Interesting.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List To foam or not to foam

2016-03-19 Thread ssjohnson via CnC-List


Hi FredI have sailed in 30k winds with just a furled jibwonderful, 
comfortable sailing.  A partial jib alone is a great sail planas long as 
you don't need to point and and the mast isn't pumpingthe mainsail supports 
the mast...if needed--==>Spencer1894 Landfall 38 "Alegria"


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Date: 03/17/2016  7:00 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 47 

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  To foam or not to foam... (Josh Muckley)
   2. Re:  To foam or not to foam... (wwadjo...@aol.com)
   3. Re:  To foam or not to foam... (Robert Boyer)
   4. Re:  To foam or not to foam... (jtsails)
   5. Re:  West coast rendezvous (Patrick Davin)
   6. Re:  To foam or not to foam... (Marek Dziedzic)
   7. Re:  Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)
  (Marek Dziedzic)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 18:13:10 -0400
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I too elected to get the rope.  The nice thing is that it is easily removed
and replaced/reduced/increased.  It is also more flexible so it will not
hold a shape and will articulate with the sail fabric betted.  Just my
observations and opinion.  I've had 1 new sails with foam,  an old sail
with rope and a new sail with rope.

The rope or the foam is designed to take up the belly of the sail when its
fuelled.  Without it the sail will act as though it is blown out while
close hulled.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 17, 2016 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I?m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and
> would like everyone?s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a
> foam luff.  In the past, I haven?t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail?s shape isn?t going to
> be ideal.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> ? Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 18:14:33 -0400
From: wwadjo...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...
Message-ID: <15386a500a5-3c92-7...@webprd-m74.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I have a UK tapedrive 144 with foam.? When furled it is smooth and clean right 
down to 100.? I can't speak to dacron.? But if done right it makes sense to me. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 18:16:33 -0400
From: Robert Boyer 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

My foam luff never collapsed in 12 years of my use and the sail was 20 years 
old when I retired it.

Bob Boyer


Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Mar 17, 2016, at 4:58 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam. His 
> thinking is that the line will never collapse. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I?m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
> like everyone?s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a 

Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Add the foam luff.  Its better than not having it, even if its imperfect.

Joel

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 12:34 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I liked my foam luff a lot.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Frederick
> G Street via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:31 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
> *Subject:* Stus-List To foam or not to foam...
>
>
>
> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and
> would like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a
> foam luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
> be ideal.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

2016-03-19 Thread schiller via CnC-List

Fred,

I really don't understand ABYC's position on this, unless they are 
referring to non plated copper.  We used silver plated copper braid in 
the Aerospace and Defense industry most of the time for lightning and 
ground bonding.  Any aircraft you ever fly on has it's electrical users 
bonded with braided copper.  As long as you have plating and the 
circular mils, I don't understand the issue.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"

On 3/14/2016 5:45 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Mike — ABYC E-11 (AC and DC Electrical Systems) has this to say about 
grounding:


11.18.2.5.2.2.Copper braid shall not be used.

11.18.2.6.Combined DC Grounding and Bonding Systems – The DC grounding 
conductors may be combined with the following systems providing all 
the requirements with respect to conductor size are met for each system.


It then goes on to list Lightning Protection, Cathodic Bonding and 
Static Electricity Grounding.  So yes, you CAN connect all of the 
grounding/bonding systems on a boat.


Lightning systems require the equivalent of #6AWG wire for everything 
but the main download; that needs to be #4AWG or equivalent, but for 
our boats the mast provides the downlead (and far exceeds #4AWG).


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 14, 2016, at 3:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Yes the braid is what we're talking about with regards to the 
lightning protection.  It is not uncommon for this braid to corrode 
away.  As I understand it you leave it uninsulated so that during a 
lightning strike the insulation doesn't have a chance to burn off and 
possibly start a fire. That's why using the cooper bar stock is 
appropriate.  I've also seen copper plumbing pipe bent in a tubing 
bender and flattened on the ends. Drill holes in the flat parts to 
bolt it ad needed. Again as straight of a shot as possible is preferred.


The lightning protection should be separated from the DC ground 
system and galvanic protection system.  See my previous link for 
clarification.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 14, 2016 10:09 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Further to this topic.

Our grounding wire is a braided copper strip approx. 3/8 inch
wide and flat.  A section has corroded and is no longer attached
and that section needs to be replaced.  Is this the same thing we
are already discussing?  Han I purchase o new section of this
wire in the suitable length and splice it somehow?

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS





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Re: Stus-List C 35 Keel bolt under mast.

2016-03-19 Thread Bill Hoyne via CnC-List
Thanks for the photo!
-bill

> On Mar 16, 2016, at 6:11 PM, Garry Cross via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I was mistaken in an earlier post. There is a keel bolt under the mast.
> Sorry.
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-itSD5oQd-SEIxWlZXSFZNeUU/view?usp=docslist_api
>  
> 
> 
> Garry Cross
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

2016-03-19 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List
To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s, 

I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side of 
the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? If so, 
could you send photos? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










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Re: Stus-List Idler Plate Photo Explanation

2016-03-19 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Wish I'd have seem this 2 months ago.

I bought the new bronze idler from edson.   When I realized that the
thickness was gonna be a problem I called edson and they found "the last
steel idler plate on the face of the earth."  They agreed to remove the
sheaves from the bronze plate and install them on the steel plate.  A week
later I got the steel plate back.  It was immediately evident that the
sheave pivots were preventing the sheaves from rotating close enough.  I
called edson again and they agreed to receive both of the plates.  My
original and the one they had just remanufactured.  They would now remove
my original sheaves from the original rusted steel plate and install them
on the "last ever" steel plate (which not needed new sheaves removed).  It
was a process but the guys at edson were reasonable and worked quickly.

It is now installed and works exactly as designed 28 years ago.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 16, 2016 10:36 AM, "Stu via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I have just posted an article by Chuck on Resolute explaining the Idler
> Arm on a 1990’s C 34/36.
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/Idler_Plate_Explained.pdf
> 
>
> or it is on the Photo Album main page.
>
> Stu
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Steve,

Yes.  Damn, that's expensive!

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel
>
>
>
> Regular paint thinner?
>
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> Yes – I have read that.  A friend (formerly C and now C) used
> varnish over epoxy on the 25 with great results.  Seals the teak better and
> hopefully holds up better/longer than varnish.  Teak & Holly now $609 CAD
> for 4x8 sheet so wantto take good care of it
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 16, 2016 2:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update
>
>
>
> Mike,
>
>
>
> I did 3 coats of epoxy.  Used thinner between coats.  I'd use thinner
> between coats of varnish too.
>
>
>
> I don't know what Ephiphanes recommends for the number of coats. I used
> Cetol natural x 3.   I imagine that's the minimum you would apply.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> 35/3
>
> Annapolis
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List message management

2016-03-19 Thread Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Blair,

- create a folder in Hotmail. You can do it through the web interface or on 
your computer (using Outlook or Live Mail). I don’t think Win 10 Mail would let 
you and for sure any of the Android Email apps won’t.

- go to Hotmail using web interface (browser). The only way to set up rules is 
while you are online at Hotmail (Outlook.com)

- once you logged in, go to Settings (little cog wheel to the right of the 
Skype icon and to the left of your name). There is a “Manage rules” option 
there. Select it.

- You will have to create a new rule. press on “New”.

- your new rule will have to be “If sender contains: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
then move to CnC” (where CnC is the name of the folder you created in step 1)

- you are done

- you may want to switch from digest to individual emails at cncphotoalbum

Marek

From: Blair Clark via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 09:58
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Blair Clark ; Dreuge 
Subject: Stus-List message management

Hello,



A while ago I saw a description on how to set up a folder in Hotmail on how to 
automatically have all incoming 

stu list emails go to a separate folder.



Can someone share with me how to do this?



Thanks

Blair Clark 902-423-4651 







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Re: Stus-List Windows again

2016-03-19 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Cast Plexiglass may be ordered with a UV coating. You don't get it by 
default.


Bill Bina

On 3/17/2016 11:15 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I have begun the process of replacing the ~ 15 year old fixed windows 
on Water Phantom. They have been leaking for awhile and are severely 
crazed--so much as to be opaque.
Interestingly, when they were replaced I also replaced all the Lewmar 
opening ports and none of these ports show any crazing--the 
acrylic/lexan (not sure which is used in Lewmar's stuff) looks like new.
I'd like to avoid a repeat of this crazing on my new windows and 
wonder if the list has some advice on the specific kind of acrylic or 
lexan to use for the windows to minimize this in the future.
I am going with 3/8" bronzed acrylic but wonder if there is a specific 
type that is recommended since there appear to be several different 
grades of acrylic with different inhibitors, etc.

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb



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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

2016-03-19 Thread Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
Of course, I didn't heed my own directions and left the body in that last
email!

ps

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Same story with the 34+

My guess is they could claim "The Fastest and roomiest 34" Works for me, 
we regularly embarrass 45 footers either cruising the lake or on the race 
course..  Just a couple weeks ago a guy in a recently purchased Beneteau 
473 unsuccessfully tried to run us down on a windward leg up the lake.. 
The "Sleeper" factor far outweighs the snob appeal of a bigger number on 
the badge any day in my book.  If that tongue in cheek effect is what C 
was looking for, I think they nailed it.. 


Surprisingly roomy and really fun boat for sure.  :-) 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA :-)

 



Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 09:03:52 -0300
From: Ken Heaton 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

By 1993 C corrected that mistake and called (and marketed) the boat as
the C 40 Series.  They even changed the number in the HIN (Hull Id.
Number) from 37 to 40 that year.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/40foot/40b3pg01.htm

Ken H.

On 18 March 2016 at 08:57, Gary Russell via CnC-List 

wrote:

>  Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never
> got a chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers
> overstating the length of their designs, why did C understate the 
length
> of their 37+"?  I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why 
not
> use the LOA like almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
Regards



François Rivard
 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

Big Data Black Belt
 Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales
 Usa
Mobile:
770-639-0429
 

e-mail:
jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 

 
 


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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Oh, Dennis, you’re such a contrarian…   :^)

This is why I love this list!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 17, 2016, at 11:38 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I don't think much of the foam luff on my cruising 155%.  I probably wouldn't 
> do it again, especially for a 135.
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List List Management

2016-03-19 Thread Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
"Maybe part of the problems with Gmail are that when replying to a message,
it does not appear that you can trim the message or change the subject
line."

Oh, but you can:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqKEJTjgNLE

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

2016-03-19 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List


Viola - Joe just gave me a reason to leave my CO2 bottle on the boat - 3 
reasons.  1st, (what I got it for ) to blow a big ship horn, 2nd, to push my 
favorite craft beer , ( I may have to get a large cooler ), and 3rd, put out 
fires!


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Date: 3/19/2016  4:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joe Della Barba  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets 

CO2 and halon are very nice ways to put out a fire without destroying the 
interior. CO2 extinguishers tend to be fairly big and halon is expensive now.  
Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaFrom: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 8:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets have one. It is pretty big, about the size 
of a backpack.I had 2 fires in the past 2 years. Fortunately I was on-board in 
both, awake on one, woken up by the second. 
I did not use the fire blanket though. Incidentally, first one was in the bilge 
due to a seized bilge pump, and the second one was a faulty charger on a high 
tech jumstarter.Both would have burned the boat down (1 ft flames licking the 
liner) if I had not been there.I have the fire blanket in case if there is an 
issue with the stove, such as an oil fireAhmet   On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 7:58 
PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:Any listers have a 
fire blanket onboard?Ever had to use one or see one used?Opinions?Dennis 
C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA  
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Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam luff.  
In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that regardless of the 
foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.

Thoughts?

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 42

2016-03-19 Thread Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Hello Brian,

I'd like to see the photos and dimensions too if you don't mind.  We were
planning to do this soon.

Our boat was re powered in 2000 with a different model of Yanmar and some
components (such as the raw water pump impeller) would be much more easily
accessed with a water proof hatch through the shower stall wall.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/


On 16 March 2016 at 21:13, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> La Neige, a 37/40 XL has an access cover in the head. It is one of those
> hinged plastic rectangular shaped hatches. Highly recommend at least this,
> as I couldn't have accessed the mounts to replace them. Also allows access
> to raw water pump and starter (still have to remove starter to get the pump
> out though.)
> I' will post pics next time I get aboard (maybe tomorrow). It was
> installed by previous owner. I would recommend larger if you can find one.
> Mine looks like this one, but black:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bomar--inspection-hatch-7-x-11-black--226873
>  I'll get the dimensions  with the pics.
>
>
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 14:43:44 -0400
>> From: Edd Schillay 
>> To: C List 
>> Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> To the Listers with 37+?s, R?s, or XL?s,
>>
>> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other
>> side of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done
>> this? If so, could you send photos?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Idler Plate Photo Explanation

2016-03-19 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
This is good but semi-unsettling information. I’ll be replacing my entire 
steering system less the quadrant and engine control cables sometime next Fall, 
Inshallah. I spoke with the folks at Edson at length about this but there was 
no thought or mention of the fact that the plate itself would be a different  
thickness.

Thanks for the updates.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 6:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wish I'd have seem this 2 months ago. 
> 
> I bought the new bronze idler from edson.   When I realized that the 
> thickness was gonna be a problem I called edson and they found "the last 
> steel idler plate on the face of the earth."  They agreed to remove the 
> sheaves from the bronze plate and install them on the steel plate.  A week 
> later I got the steel plate back.  It was immediately evident that the sheave 
> pivots were preventing the sheaves from rotating close enough.  I called 
> edson again and they agreed to receive both of the plates.  My original and 
> the one they had just remanufactured.  They would now remove my original 
> sheaves from the original rusted steel plate and install them on the "last 
> ever" steel plate (which not needed new sheaves removed).  It was a process 
> but the guys at edson were reasonable and worked quickly.
> 
> It is now installed and works exactly as designed 28 years ago.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Mar 16, 2016 10:36 AM, "Stu via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> I have just posted an article by Chuck on Resolute explaining the Idler Arm 
> on a 1990’s C 34/36.
>  
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/Idler_Plate_Explained.pdf 
> 
>  
> or it is on the Photo Album main page.
>  
> Stu
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 

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Stus-List Crack in Keel

2016-03-19 Thread Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List
I have just purchased a 1985 C 33 MK-2 that has a small crack on the port
side of the keel (see picture attached). 

The location looks to be lower than the normal Smile crack that develops.

Looking for recommendations on how to repair.

There is no delamination, but I do detect some moisture around the crack.

 

Inline image 3Inline image 4

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 39

2016-03-19 Thread Stephen Thorne via CnC-List
Ditto White Water made my stainless grab rails really nice upgrade.

Steve Thorne
Dejavu 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 16, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
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>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Gooseneck fitting (Josh Muckley)
>   2. Re:  Stainless grab rails (Dennis C.)
>   3.  Mertec folding prop removal (Curtis McDaniel)
>   4. Re:  Mertec folding prop removal (Dennis C.)
>   5. Re:  Stainless grab rails (Chuck S)
>   6. Re:  Stainless grab rails (Josh Muckley)
>   7. Re:  Mertec folding prop removal (Ronald B. Frerker)
>   8. Re:  Stainless grab rails (Josh Muckley)
>   9. Re:  Mertec folding prop removal (Dennis C.)
>  10. Re:  attaching grounding wires to keel bolts (schiller)
>  11.  Idler Plate Photo Explanation (Stu)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2016 18:56:17 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> FYI my bolt was too short on the unthreaded portion and the threaded
> portion wore into the lower mast fitting.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 12, 2016 12:22 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
> 
>> Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn
>> around the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94
>> 37/40+. I'm not sure of the manufacturer.
>> On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive?
>> I'm sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the
>> thread.
>> 
>> Cheers, Al
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2016 20:07:23 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ditto whitewater.  Had them make SS rails made for a J30.  Nice work.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Tue, Mar 15, 2016 at 5:51 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list.
>> Very reasonable to work with.   I can't remember if it was $200 each or
>> total for the pair.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Mar 15, 2016 3:35 PM, "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Call Doug Guierella at Klacko Stainless in st Carharines
>>> 
>>> Sent from Joe Bognar
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.
>>> Once I started stripping them, I realized that they are really thin from
>>> many years of sanding. I am looking for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area
>>> that can fabricate replacement grab rails from stainless steel.  Anybody
>>> have any suggestions?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
>>> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
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Stus-List "And now for something completely different..."

2016-03-19 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
If any Listers are in the Northern Neck/Reedville  area of Virginia this coming 
Saturday, afternoon, I, along with my wife and a few others, will be hosting 
our annual Sock Burning party. Everyone is welcome. It’s a pretty low-key event 
that started out with about 15 people in our back yard by the dock eight years 
ago and is up to 85-95, and growing, bewildered-about burning-socks folks. 

The “Chairman” of the sock burning is an old C List emeritus that many of you 
may remember, Dr. Greg Cutter. Always fun listening to him…

Email me off-list for details if interested.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
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Stus-List Idler Plate Photo Explanation

2016-03-19 Thread Stu via CnC-List
I have just posted an article by Chuck on Resolute explaining the Idler Arm on 
a 1990’s C 34/36.

http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGV4AwNjZmxkAQNzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG04BGR0AwxjZwVmAN

or it is on the Photo Album main page.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

2016-03-19 Thread Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
CO2 and halon are very nice ways to put out a fire without destroying the 
interior. 

CO2 extinguishers tend to be fairly big and halon is expensive now.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 8:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

 

have one. It is pretty big, about the size of a backpack.

I had 2 fires in the past 2 years. Fortunately I was on-board in both, awake on 
one, woken up by the second. 
I did not use the fire blanket though. 

Incidentally, first one was in the bilge due to a seized bilge pump, and the 
second one was a faulty charger on a high tech jumstarter.

Both would have burned the boat down (1 ft flames licking the liner) if I had 
not been there.

I have the fire blanket in case if there is an issue with the stove, such as an 
oil fire

Ahmet

 

 

 

On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 7:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:

Any listers have a fire blanket onboard?

Ever had to use one or see one used?

Opinions?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Not an affront, but many of us never look in those digest emails, so you might 
not get much of an audience ;)
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

Guilty as charged, again.
My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my shortcomings. I am trying 
my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did manage to get my 
return email address changed, put a signature line in the bottom, and delete 
the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.
So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
From: Russ & Melody >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
Message-ID:

>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
subject line instead of reading them.

So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!

Stu



--
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List masthead sheaves

2016-03-19 Thread Jason Ward via CnC-List

I am looking for another masthead sheave for my lf38.  I have the wire/rope 
sheaves and would like to stay with that system.  Does anyone know where you 
can source them. 
  
Thanks, 
Jason 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
For those interested in the DIY method, a friend of mine pretty thoroughly 
documented a rudder rebuild he did on his J-30 here:  
http://j30hullabaloo.blogspot.com/  It looked brand new when he got done and 
has held up well.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI




Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

Guilty as charged.  Maybe Infamously would be more appropriate.

I think we tend to feel that we have to fix these boats to factory standards 
when we get them, but in reality as they get older, they get more customized, 
which is not a bad thing. I don’t think anyone would want to replace  their 
traveler with an original Schaffer Traveler when you could have a nice Harken 
instead –

Back in the early eighties I was re-doing C rudders locally for a number of 
models, as it became widely understood that more control was needed, and they 
were modified to be less wide but deeper. By that, I mean just taking the 
original rudders, and cutting the framework off and welding new foils on, 
narrower and deeper, nothing else on my part. Interestingly, my father was 
sailing on a C 39 at the time, owned by an even older curmudgeon (my dad was 
NOT a curmudgeon)  who was in the market for a new rudder.  I offered to my dad 
that I would do Mearl’s  for free, and he declined, saying that “if anything at 
all was not right, he would never hear the end of it.”   Fast forward 18 years, 
I am now the owner of that very same 39, hauling it out in October to find I 
was missing nearly half that rudder that had been rebuilt at Bruckman’s.  I 
rebuilt it in 14 Gauge SS skin and moved the shaft back 2 ½” for better 
balance. A few years later I removed it and cut the corners off and made it 
elliptical, just because in my mind it seemed a less turbulent shape.  It is 
completely neutral in weight.  On  high to low reaches I can take my hands off 
and it sails itself.  And sorry,  no, I am not interested in making any, just 
mentioning this as another option. In my mind, an epoxy (or Polyester) to SS 
joint is eventually going to leak, they just do not stick to each other very 
well.

Another on/off lister from Toronto/BC had Bob Perry do him a design for a 39 
which looked sweet.  That rudder snapped off at the exit point,  (no reflection 
on Perry) so there is no need in my mentioning who fabricated that one.



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:27 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement



I friend of mine took his rudder home over the winter, cut a skin off, scooped 
all the rotten foam out, refilled it with an epoxy-microballon mix, and glued 
the skin back on. YMMV, no idea if this is the best way, but it was cheap.

Also someone famously made an all-stainless rudder.



Joe

Coquina





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement



When I was working with Rob on the 51, he freely admitted that rudder design 
back then was more art than science.  That's not to say slap anything on but I 
wouldn't feel obliged to duplicate your existing rudder to perfection if the 
mold isn't available.



On the post and structure inside the rudder you really won't know until the 
skins are removed and you get to see it.  Hopefully all is fine but given your 
comments...  Who knows, maybe you get to have the fun of deciding on a 
stainless vs. Carbon post! Is there a local designer you can speak with or a 
yard that frequently handles such work?



Good luck and sorry to hear of the problem.



John











Sent from my iPad


On Mar 18, 2016, at 1:30 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
wrote:

Rudder is in need of major repair. Got a quote for a replacement for less than 
a repair, but not an exact copy (they don't have a mold). Also 2/3 the cost of 
having a mold made and then a replacement made from that.

I had drilled a dozen  holes to drain water over the winter to avoid freeze 
expansion causing more damage. Found many of the holes drilled had just voids 
behind them, no foam, others had a gritty white material that was saturated 
with water. Saw pictures here and elsewhere of same rudder repair needed.



Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 12:21:42 -0400
From: John Pennie 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
Message-ID: <2c82d7c8-8e02-4d7f-aec5-d405a536d...@svpaws.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I seriously 

Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
I was talked out of adding the foam luff when I order my sail. I wanted to have 
it and my sailmaker recommended against it. I don’t miss it one bit. It is a 
135% and I fairly regularly sail furled down to about 90%.

 

Just my $0.02.

 

Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

 

I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam luff.  
In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that regardless of the 
foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.

 

Thoughts?

 

— Fred

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

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Stus-List Stainless grab rails

2016-03-19 Thread Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks back and 
noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried them? They do 
carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's also a company in 
Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the day, I think someone 
mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders.
Brad
"Pulse" C 33 MkII
Lake Huron


I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly Floor

2016-03-19 Thread Joseph Bognar via CnC-List
My boat came with a teak and holly sole . It was actually a pine I think with 
dark strips as apposed to the dark teak strips . The galley was cut into pieces 
. There were spacers over the bilge to make it level. I custom cut the VEE 
berth. Not as good a job as Eric but it will do . I was lucky to have the old 
floor to use as a pattern . My floor was screwed down . The only issue I had 
was by my ice box . The screw hole was right where the cabin sole meet the hull 
and I drilled right through my hull . Oops . It's all good now. Lessons learned 
.

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Mar 19, 2016, at 9:52 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Eric Dinn has provided a very good sequence of photos of his teak and holly 
> floor installation.
>  
> The installation was done on Arbutus, a 1974 C 30 MK I, out of Comox, BC, 
> Canada.
>  
> It’s on the Photo Album at:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/teak_holly_floor/
>  
> Stu
>  
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
For the second round of replacing the cabin sole and after using a single coat 
of epoxy with about 8 coats of gloss varnish on the first effort 12 years ago, 
I changed up.

1 coat Awlwood MA Primer
4 coats Awlwood MA Gloss
2 coats satin varnish of choice. I needed two coats because I’m a crappy 
varnisher…

And all I ever did between coats was sand, clean with a ling-free rag and use a 
tack-rag as I was brushing. Which is probably a bad thing…  :-)

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi
>  
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating is 
> in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of the 
> teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I am 
> planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>  
> A couple of questions.
>  
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what should 
> be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the 
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or something 
> else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux special 
> thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a Chandlery on 
> my drive home
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish 
> surface)
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
> Halifax, NS
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt 
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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> of page at:
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> 
> 

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Stus-List Winches on sale

2016-03-19 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
For those looking for new winches, West has buy one get one free for the
next 4 days.



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

2016-03-19 Thread Jim Watts via CnC-List
I bought one of the $10 Home Depot ones after going through the Safety at
Sea seminar last year. It immediately got repurposed to the home
firefighting team, but has thankfully not been used yet.
Now I have to buy another one for the boat.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Stus-List Keel Smile

2016-03-19 Thread Ainslie via CnC-List
My keel joint seems to be opening up; there wasn't much sign of it at haul
out, but now it's noticeable. Also, you can see something oozing from the
crack. Whatever it is has an oily texture so I'm guessing it's coming from
the bilge. In the first photo, the vertical stain is the same oily ooze
coming from a welt higher up on the keel stub. I think I have to address it
because if something can get out, then surely water can get in. Three
options: a)rout out the crack and fill with epoxy; b) fill it with 5200 (on
the premise that the keel 'wants' to flex laterally, so fill it with
something flexible); or c)see how it progresses this season and see if I
have an autumn project? I don't think (c) is the best option. I've done this
kind of work before - I'd appreciate hearing what the Listers say.

 

http://jainslieblog.blogspot.ca/

 

Could this have been caused by the way it's sitting in the cradle? FYI, this
keel is a modified bulb, done by MarsKeel about 9 years ago. Thanks for any
input.

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C 35-3

Port of Bayfield

 

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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread William Walker via CnC-List
I have a UK tapedrive 144 with foam.  When furled it is smooth and clean right 
down to 100.  I can't speak to dacron.  But if done right it makes sense to me. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 42

2016-03-19 Thread Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
Thanks for the idea.  I may go even larger on the inspection hatch.

Rick
Paikea 37+
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 5:13 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> La Neige, a 37/40 XL has an access cover in the head. It is one of those 
> hinged plastic rectangular shaped hatches. Highly recommend at least this, as 
> I couldn't have accessed the mounts to replace them. Also allows access to 
> raw water pump and starter (still have to remove starter to get the pump out 
> though.)
> I' will post pics next time I get aboard (maybe tomorrow). It was installed 
> by previous owner. I would recommend larger if you can find one.
> Mine looks like this one, but black:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bomar--inspection-hatch-7-x-11-black--226873 
> 
>  I'll get the dimensions  with the pics.
>  
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 14:43:44 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay >
> To: C List >
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> To the Listers with 37+?s, R?s, or XL?s,
> 
> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side 
> of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? 
> If so, could you send photos?
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 
> -- 
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread Sean Richardson via CnC-List
Who cares? A guy named Stu, that's who.

every 'Bit' counts


Sean

Lynx

1980 C 27 MKIII

Ottawa

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 8:42 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> who cares
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 1:22 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> > Guilty as charged, again.
> > My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my shortcomings. I am
> > trying my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did
> manage
> > to get my return email address changed, put a signature line in the
> bottom,
> > and delete the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.
> > So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Message: 10
> >> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
> >> From: Russ & Melody 
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
> >> Message-ID:
> >> <
> mailman.1929.1458215120.5230.cnc-list_cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> >>
> >>
> >> Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
> >> Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
> >> subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
> >> subject line instead of reading them.
> >>
> >> So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!
> >>
> >> Stu
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Brian Fry
> > S/V La Neige
> > 1993 C 37/40XL
> > HdG Maryland
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> > of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Stus-List Keel Project

2016-03-19 Thread ahycrace--- via CnC-List
I see that Stu has just posted some information about my keel repair project of 
a few years ago. I have just finished a small site with all my photos of the 
project along with a running log of the explanation of the process, the link 
for that site is here. Stu can now add this site to our list as well.

Gary Kolc
 "Liberty"
AHYC
Apponaug Harbor Yacht Club


http://gkolc3.wix.com/liberty

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Re: Stus-List masthead sheaves

2016-03-19 Thread John Sandford via CnC-List
Jason

My LF38 has wire rope sheaves;

2 Jib and one Main, are identical

4” OD, ½” ID, 9/16” wide, with Oilite bushing.

Rope size is 7/16

There is a number 523318 stamped on them, in case that is a help. I googled
my brains out with that number, but came up empty.

 

Closest that I have found, Just rope, is from Rigrite

 

4" Aluminum Sheave w/ Integral Bronze Bushing - 1/2" wide, 1/2" ID: PP
S16AR8-B8:
Anodized Aluminum Sheave with integral Oilite Bronze bushing is 4" OD x 1/2"
wide x 1/2" ID. Special Narrow Sheave for traditional masthead applications
has Rope groove for line up to 7/16" diameter. Features relieved walls to
reduce weight

 

I am in the process of;

-  Changing both jib sheaves to rope only. (Using the above, unless
anyone posts a better match)

-  Moving one unused Jib Sheave to replace the worn Main sheave.

-  Removing the existing Jib halyard and keeping it as a spare Main

 

I would be interested to see what the experts reply and advise.

thanks

John

 

 

From: jaw...@mymts.net [mailto:jaw...@mymts.net] 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List masthead sheaves

 


I am looking for another masthead sheave for my lf38.  I have the wire/rope
sheaves and would like to stay with that system.  Does anyone know where you
can source them.

 

Thanks,

Jason

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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I don't think much of the foam luff on my cruising 155%.  I probably
wouldn't do it again, especially for a 135.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 11:30 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and
> would like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a
> foam luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
> be ideal.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List West coast rendezvous

2016-03-19 Thread svpegasus38






I am planning on sailing to Desolation Sound in July and stopping at the 
Rendezvous on the way home to Seattle. If anyone wants to meet up somewhere or 
sail with me give me a shout. I could use crew as my girlfriend has to work, 
and won't be able to make the whole trip. She has to support me in the manner I 
wish to become accustomed to. I plan on leaving seattle around the middle of 
July and returning the middle of August. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.





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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread mike amirault via CnC-List
Thanks for the info about your rudder replacement,Bruno. Good company to keep 
in mind if I ever need to do mine.  Better to deal with a Canadian company with 
our dollar being so low right now.

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS___

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Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

2016-03-19 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
I got my ABYC electrical certification about twelve years ago; I don’t recall 
if that was discussed in the certification class or not.  I imagine it has to 
do with rapid deterioration of the braid over time in the very caustic salt 
environment.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 16, 2016, at 8:21 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> 
> I really don't understand ABYC's position on this, unless they are referring 
> to non plated copper.  We used silver plated copper braid in the Aerospace 
> and Defense industry most of the time for lightning and ground bonding.  Any 
> aircraft you ever fly on has it's electrical users bonded with braided 
> copper.  As long as you have plating and the circular mils, I don't 
> understand the issue.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> 
> On 3/14/2016 5:45 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>> Mike — ABYC E-11 (AC and DC Electrical Systems) has this to say about 
>> grounding:
>> 
>> 11.18.2.5.2.2.   Copper braid shall not be used.
>> 
>> 11.18.2.6.   Combined DC Grounding and Bonding Systems – The DC grounding 
>> conductors may be combined with the following systems providing all the 
>> requirements with respect to conductor size are met for each system.
>> 
>> It then goes on to list Lightning Protection, Cathodic Bonding and Static 
>> Electricity Grounding.  So yes, you CAN connect all of the grounding/bonding 
>> systems on a boat.
>> 
>> Lightning systems require the equivalent of #6AWG wire for everything but 
>> the main download; that needs to be #4AWG or equivalent, but for our boats 
>> the mast provides the downlead (and far exceeds #4AWG).

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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Brian,

I approached someone else off list as to why/how this happens.  Can you
possibly give some insights?  If there was legitimately something simple
that could be done on the server side?  I considered that maybe renaming
the digest subject to include "DO NOT REPLY" would help?  I've also thought
that simply having a server rule that rejects all mail with the word DIGEST
in the subject line?

I guess I've never had a problem so I don't understand what's causing the
problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 17, 2016 12:24 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Guilty as charged, again.
> My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my shortcomings. I am
> trying my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did manage
> to get my return email address changed, put a signature line in the bottom,
> and delete the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.
> So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.
>
>
>
>> Message: 10
>> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
>> From: Russ & Melody 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>>
>>
>> Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
>> Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
>> subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
>> subject line instead of reading them.
>>
>> So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!
>>
>> Stu
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Crack in Keel

2016-03-19 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Does look a bit low for the hull/keel joint.

Does this boat have a history of racing?  If so, a previous owner may have
faired a low spot in the keel or used a template to optimize the foil.

I'd dig into the crack a bit and see if it's fairing compound.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 11:16 AM, Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have just purchased a 1985 C 33 MK-2 that has a small crack on the
> port side of the keel (see picture attached).
>
> The location looks to be lower than the normal Smile crack that develops.
>
> Looking for recommendations on how to repair.
>
> There is no delamination, but I do detect some moisture around the crack.
>
>
>
> [image: Inline image 3][image: Inline image 4]
>
> ___
>
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Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Hi

All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating is in 
progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of the teak 
and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I am planning a 
number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.

A couple of questions.


1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what should be 
used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?

2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the 
varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or something 
else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux special 
thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a Chandlery on 
my drive home

3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish 
surface)

4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 22 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread sthoma20--- via CnC-List
My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam. His 
thinking is that the line will never collapse. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote: 
I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam luff.  
In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that regardless of the 
foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.

Thoughts?

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



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Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly Floor

2016-03-19 Thread Randy Stafford via CnC-List
That's beautiful. Nice work Eric, and thanks for sharing Erik and Stu. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Stu via CnC-List"  
To: "C Email List"  
Cc: "Stu"  
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2016 7:52:52 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Teak and Holly Floor 

Eric Dinn has provided a very good sequence of photos of his teak and holly 
floor installation. 
The installation was done on Arbutus, a 1974 C 30 MK I, out of Comox, BC, 
Canada. 
It’s on the Photo Album at: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/teak_holly_floor/ 
Stu 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Here is a shot of the Enterprise at the Mystic Seaport Museum: 
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/882365_222167627908097_1707433058_o.jpg
  

… and here is a shot of Rob Ball checking her out: 
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QBvBegS9zXA/UG2olsTiAcI/BnU/UrjYO2tFsOs/s1600/Ball.png
  

We are still not sure what he was thinking in the photo. Was it:

1. Hot damn, I designed a really nice boat;
2. If only she was as fast as she looks;
3. So this is the boat from the blog I keep hearing about; or
4. What did this Star Trek geek freak do to my design? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Mar 18, 2016, at 8:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Gary,
> 
> I asked him at the C Rendezvous in Mystic back in 2012 (we are going again 
> -- see cncnortheast.com ). 
> 
> Rob initially designed a 37 foot boat with a practically vertical bow and 
> stern (much like a J) and in just about every way, it is a 37 foot boat. 
> 
> But the look kept bugging him. So, and I quote, he "put $40 of fiberglass 
> onto the bow and another $40 of fiberglass into the stern."  Same is true for 
> the 34 series. 
> 
> The marketing department didn't want to change the name, so it stayed 37 (and 
> 34) for a while (adding R, XL or +). Eventually they started calling it the 
> 37/40 and then after the "40 Series". 
> 
> It does save a bit on dock fees and winter storage to call it a 37 :-)
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 7:57 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>  Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never got 
> a chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers 
> overstating the length of their designs, why did C understate the length of 
> their 37+"?  I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not use 
> the LOA like almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> _
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
How about anybody who posts without a correct subject line sends Stu a 
$5 donation. Sort of like a swear jar, but more productive. Posts 
replying to the digest also frequently contain the entire digest, so 
maybe that should be a $10 option. :-)


Bill Bina

On 3/17/2016 2:02 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List wrote:


Only three options I can see to deal with this.

1) 1) Those who wish to, continue to delete/ignore Digest replies. 
Or better yet, just create a filter/rule to automatically chuck it in 
the bin.


2)2) Stu removes the digest option altogether.

3) 3) Subject the offenders to a good Keelhauling.

I prefer #3, but that’s probably because I’ve been hanging out over at 
SA far too much.




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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

2016-03-19 Thread Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
Allen,

I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will grab 
some pictures for you this weekend.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: allen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: allen; Peter 
Patterson
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

I'd like to see pics too.  Clearance is tight on 30-2 and hatch access from 
head is something I would like to do too.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 7:44 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton ; Peter Patterson
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access


Hello David,


I'd like to see the photos and measurements too if you don't mind.  We were 
planning to do this soon.


Our boat was re powered in 2000 with a different model of Yanmar and some 
components (such as the raw water pump impeller) would be much more easily 
accessed with a water proof hatch through the shower stall wall.


Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/


On 16 March 2016 at 20:58, djmocny via CnC-List  wrote:

  Edd,  ours was done by the PO.  I will take photos and get measurements for 
you.  Will email this weekend or sooner.


  David Mocny
  37/40+
  Obsession


   Original message 
  From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
  Date: 03/16/2016 2:43 PM (GMT-05:00)
  To: C List 
  Cc: Edd Schillay 
  Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

  To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s,


  I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side 
of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? If 
so, could you send photos?



  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log















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Re: Stus-List Engine Access

2016-03-19 Thread kelly petew via CnC-List
I, too, would be most interested in seeing your photos.  Thanks
 
 
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
30-2
Deltaville, VA
 
Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 15:44:51 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll 
> To: allen via CnC-List 
> Cc: Jim Reinardy , Peter Patterson
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allen, I will grab a photo and dimensions of our hatch on our 30-2 this
> weekend when we are on the boat. Ours isn't a nice looking wood hatch, but
> it's the head and behind the door, and waterproof so it works fine for our
> needs.
> 
> KD
> 
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 7:26 AM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Allen,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will
> > grab some pictures for you this weekend.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Reinardy
> >
> > C 30-2 ?Firewater?  ___

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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Ken Heaton via CnC-List
The stock 37/40  rudder is a pretty close fit at the top, both between the
rudder top and hull when hard over, and between the top section of the
rudder and the stubby skeg in front if it.  You'd want to be sure before
you bought one.

Is your existing rudder saturated with water?  Many people have had
rebuilds done by removing one skin, putting in new foam and putting the
skin back.  They have generally found the stainless steel shaft and
internal armature to be sound.  I'm sure there are threads on the list
about it.

Graham (on the list) did the rudder on his C 35 a few years ago.  He'll
likely chime in soon.

Ken H.

On 18 March 2016 at 13:14, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?
> Got a decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing
> the pros and cons.
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

2016-03-19 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Link to pics.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 18, 2016 10:22 AM, "Dave via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Can someone post a photo of their C with stainless grab rails?
>
> Thanx,
> Dave
> C MK3
> Saltaire
> Bristol, RI
>
> --
> *From: *"Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Ken Heaton" 
> *Sent: *Friday, March 18, 2016 9:49:09 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
>
> Go sailing?
>
> ;-)
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 18 March 2016 at 09:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I agree with Dwight.
>>
>>
>>
>> What would you do with all your spare time each Spring if you didn’t have
>> teak handrails to sand and refinish?
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
>> veinot via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:41 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* dwight veinot
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
>>
>>
>>
>> teak handrails are better, they just look right on a classic Cuthhbertson
>> design
>>
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>>
>> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>>
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks
>> back and noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried
>> them? They do carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's
>> also a company in Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the
>> day, I think someone mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders.
>>
>> Brad
>>
>> "Pulse" C 33 MkII
>>
>> Lake Huron
>>
>> I'd rather be sailing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Idler Plate Photo Explanation

2016-03-19 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
Oops.. forgot to sign my name on the last post

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

 

Orion

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2016 6:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Idler Plate Photo Explanation

 

This is good but semi-unsettling information. I’ll be replacing my entire 
steering system less the quadrant and engine control cables sometime next Fall, 
Inshallah. I spoke with the folks at Edson at length about this but there was 
no thought or mention of the fact that the plate itself would be a different  
thickness.

 

Thanks for the updates.

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit  

 

On Mar 16, 2016, at 6:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

Wish I'd have seem this 2 months ago.  

I bought the new bronze idler from edson.   When I realized that the thickness 
was gonna be a problem I called edson and they found "the last steel idler 
plate on the face of the earth."  They agreed to remove the sheaves from the 
bronze plate and install them on the steel plate.  A week later I got the steel 
plate back.  It was immediately evident that the sheave pivots were preventing 
the sheaves from rotating close enough.  I called edson again and they agreed 
to receive both of the plates.  My original and the one they had just 
remanufactured.  They would now remove my original sheaves from the original 
rusted steel plate and install them on the "last ever" steel plate (which not 
needed new sheaves removed).  It was a process but the guys at edson were 
reasonable and worked quickly.

It is now installed and works exactly as designed 28 years ago.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Mar 16, 2016 10:36 AM, "Stu via CnC-List"  > wrote:

I have just posted an article by Chuck on Resolute explaining the Idler Arm on 
a 1990’s C 34/36.

 

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/Idler_Plate_Explained.pdf 

 

 

or it is on the Photo Album main page.

 

Stu

  

 
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Stus-List sleeper factor

2016-03-19 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
The sleeper factor is with the cruisers / casual sailors who judge the 
book by its cover which is most folks on the lake.. 

No Worries, as far as my racing competition and the PHRF committee is 
concerned, they can lookup a boat quicker you can say phrf..  They know 
what my boat is capable of and we're rated accordingly.
Actually, the phrf committee came to my dock after one of the 1st races we 
ran to measure the boat and make sure I was not underrated.. 

Have fun racing. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA 


?sleeper factor? is an interesting comment and touches a nerve with me. 
The comment we get mostly is we have a ?gift rating?.  Seems when we do 
well in races our rating is a gift.  However if we do poorly, we didn?t 
sail well.Whatever.   I?m tired of other boats being sailed poorly and 
using gift rating as an excuse.  The never ending problems with PHRF, I 
guess.

 

Sorry for the rant.  Long week. 

 

-  Pete and his screaming, PHRF busting, 1984 straight up 37 


Same story with the 34+

..The "Sleeper" factor far outweighs the snob appeal of a bigger 
number on the badge any day in my book. 

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Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Brian Fry via CnC-List
Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?
Got a decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing
the pros and cons.

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

2016-03-19 Thread Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
On our 30 mkII we have an 8" screw access port in the port cabin for
access. In the head we have an access hatch for dipstick etc. The hatch is
much more preferable. Something similar to this.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/tempress--access-hatches-with-slam-or-cam-latches--P024_720_002_003

Couldn't imagine what I would do without either!

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 12:07 PM David Blair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did that on a 30 Mk ii a few years ago – centered the opening over the
> dipstick and fuel pump areas.  Easy to do, being careful to avoid hoses on
> the other side. Used a screw in access port about 6” diameter – could have
> been larger.  Boat sold now so no pics, sorry..
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 16, 2016 11:44 AM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay
> *Subject:* Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
>
>
>
> To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s,
>
>
>
> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other
> side of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done
> this? If so, could you send photos?
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Graham Collins via CnC-List
It is possible to do a DIY job to a NACA profile, it just takes some 
time to plot the proper profiles out and use them as templates.  It was 
NOT a trivial DIY job though, be sure of your abilities first.


As Ken mentioned, I did rebuild mine.  It was saturated, and cracked 
during the winter.   When I pulled the skins off I was happy I'd decided 
to rebuild as the welds holding the frame to the post were dramatically 
corroded.  I had a new frame welded on, applied and shaped new foam, and 
put glass on top.  Very happy with the result. I kept the same outline 
shape (in case anyone is thinking of turning me in to the PHRF 
folks...), but shaped it to NACA foils.  It was not shaped like that 
before.  Very happy with the results.


Within Canada there is also Competition Composites (AKA Phil's Foils) in 
Ottawa.  They will re-use the post if you want and will CNC cut the 
profile in the foam, so super accurate.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-18 4:46 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:
Doing the research about replacement/repair and different profiles of 
rudders i became quite obsessed with the importance of the design and 
precision of the profile (ref. NACA profiles).


So a DIY job was quickly out of question. The boat is not a 40 kts 
foiler but i do race the boat and wanted a nice rudder.


The small local yard quote was over 2500$ for a complete rebuild, that 
would have been very ok, but still an eyeball job. At this point i 
decided to go all the way crazy and give the job to the pros. Don't 
regret it, i almost cried when i opened the box it was so beutiful!


There is a lot of good info on their website, even a video of the 
fabrication process.


I have now a keel fairing job on my to do list, but not a priority at 
this point.


Bruno Lachance
C 33mkII 87' Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:55:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@bellaliant.net

Thanks for the info about your rudder replacement,Bruno. Good company 
to keep in mind if I ever need to do mine.  Better to deal with a 
Canadian company with our dollar being so low right now.

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

2016-03-19 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
When the groundhog stuck his head out of the hole this year I shot him.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 1:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

Thank the ground hog!

John


Sent from my iPad

On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Dropped by my club today at noon and my finger pier is now in and waiting for 
me!  This is over one full month ahead of last year

Guess I had better get busy

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Joel

Regular paint thinner?

Steve

Yes – I have read that.  A friend (formerly C and now C) used varnish 
over epoxy on the 25 with great results.  Seals the teak better and hopefully 
holds up better/longer than varnish.  Teak & Holly now $609 CAD for 4x8 sheet 
so wantto take good care of it

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2016 2:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

Mike,

I did 3 coats of epoxy.  Used thinner between coats.  I'd use thinner between 
coats of varnish too.

I don't know what Ephiphanes recommends for the number of coats. I used Cetol 
natural x 3.   I imagine that's the minimum you would apply.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi

All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating is in 
progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of the teak 
and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I am planning a 
number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.

A couple of questions.


1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what should be 
used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?

2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the 
varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or something 
else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux special 
thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a Chandlery on 
my drive home

3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish 
surface)

4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 22 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Gary Russell via CnC-List
Hi Edd,
 I knew you would know the answer.
Thanks,
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I asked him at the C Rendezvous in Mystic back in 2012 (we are going
> again -- see cncnortheast.com).
>
> Rob initially designed a 37 foot boat with a practically vertical bow and
> stern (much like a J) and in just about every way, it is a 37 foot boat.
>
> But the look kept bugging him. So, and I quote, he "put $40 of fiberglass
> onto the bow and another $40 of fiberglass into the stern."  Same is true
> for the 34 series.
>
> The marketing department didn't want to change the name, so it stayed 37
> (and 34) for a while (adding R, XL or +). Eventually they started calling
> it the 37/40 and then after the "40 Series".
>
> It does save a bit on dock fees and winter storage to call it a 37 :-)
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 7:57 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never
> got a chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers
> overstating the length of their designs, why did C understate the length
> of their 37+"?  I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not
> use the LOA like almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
> ___
>
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Stus-List Teak and Holly Floor

2016-03-19 Thread Stu via CnC-List
Eric Dinn has provided a very good sequence of photos of his teak and holly 
floor installation.

The installation was done on Arbutus, a 1974 C 30 MK I, out of Comox, BC, 
Canada.

It’s on the Photo Album at:
http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGV4AwLlAmt5ZGpzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG04BGD2ZwH2AGV0At

Stu
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Re: Stus-List little A hatches on a LF38

2016-03-19 Thread svpegasus38






Paul, nice video. I replaced the seals and resealed my fwd hatch. Only 
to have it leak where I tweaked the frame. Ended up replacing it with a new 
hatch. No more drips on my head at night. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--From: Dreuge via CnC-List Date: Tue, Mar 15, 2016 
10:54To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Dreuge;Subject:Re: Stus-List little A 
hatches on a LF38
Maybe this youtube video will help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry5Vap15ak8

-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, Fl

Checked by Avast Antivirus. www.avast.com





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Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Dave Syer via CnC-List
Have used several different epoxy systems over the years and have found
that prep can vary a bit.  Cured epoxy leaves a film on its surface
referred to as "amine blush" that needs to be removed.  It is water
soluble.  I have found that some types wipe off with a wet rag, some must
be washed more aggressively,  (cure temp affects this too I think)  Wipe
with acetone after that if you wish.  I scuff sand after as well.  FYI - I
recently tried a "blushless" resin, which was not. Maybe they meant
blush-less?  Dunno.

For outdoor applications, epoxy MUST  be varnished or painted as it has no
inherent UV resistance.  For sun-baked, non-structural things like
handrails, I would not bother with epoxy, its easier to stick (so to speak)
to one system, and you will be varnishing anyway.

FWIW Doing my cabin sole as well, and repaired/epoxied the board around the
mast step (some carpentry involved, and rot and damage repair but the rest
is in good shape and has resisted whatever water it has encountered since
'85.  Urethane varnish only.

Epoxy seems really benign but it isn't, so be careful.  You can become
sensitized with cumulative exposure (as my Dad has been) and I recently
developed a really nasty rash after doing some work.  Possibly the price of
carelessness over time.

Dave





Message: 3
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 17:28:13 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole question/update
Message-ID:
<169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f129...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi

All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.

A couple of questions.


1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?

2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
Chandlery on my drive home

3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
surface)

4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 22 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 13:36:19 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Maybe you already read this but:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

I had to search it because I had not heard of varnishing over epoxy before.
Interesting.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

2016-03-19 Thread Dave via CnC-List
Can someone post a photo of their C with stainless grab rails? 

Thanx, 
Dave 
C MK3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ken Heaton"  
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 9:49:09 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails 

Go sailing? 

;-) 

Ken H. 

On 18 March 2016 at 09:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 





I agree with Dwight. 



What would you do with all your spare time each Spring if you didn’t have teak 
handrails to sand and refinish? 



From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:41 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails 




teak handrails are better, they just look right on a classic Cuthhbertson 
design 





Dwight Veinot 


C 35 MKII, Alianna 


Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 


d.ve...@bellaliant.net 








On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 


I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks back and 
noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried them? They do 
carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's also a company in 
Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the day, I think someone 
mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders. 


Brad 


"Pulse" C 33 MkII 


Lake Huron 



I'd rather be sailing 






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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
I have had a foam luff in my last 135 for 10 years and loved it.  I ordered the 
same in my new headsail.  It seems like you can furl it down to about 100% 
without losing much shape.  I would definitely go with the foam luff!

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Mar 17, 2016, at 12:30 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
> like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam luff. 
>  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that regardless of 
> the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

2016-03-19 Thread schiller via CnC-List
If you need practice, come on by my place.  I usually shoot two or three 
when they decide to take up residence under the barn (or front porch).  
I keep the .22 by the back door all summer long.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"

On 3/18/2016 8:29 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List wrote:

If you need ammo next year, let me know!

On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:


When the groundhog stuck his head out of the hole this year I shot
him.

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *John Pennie
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, March 18, 2016 1:42 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* John Pennie
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

Thank the ground hog!

John



Sent from my iPad


On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
> wrote:

Dropped by my club today at noon and my finger pier is now in
and waiting for me!  This is over one full month ahead of last
year

Guess I had better get busy

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

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Re: Stus-List West coast rendezvous

2016-03-19 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
I'll also be doing Desolation Sound this summer, and likely further north.
June thru August, if we can get three months off. So there's a good chance
we will try to make the rendezvous August 5-7. Hard to say for sure now -
as they say, cruisers plans are written in sand at low tide. But we should
definitely sync up on plans in May/June!

Also I'll be doing a haul-out at Seaview from April 15th for about a week,
so if I don't see you before then, I can give you the 3/8" epdm foam I
promised then.

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:00 PM,  wrote:
>
> From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 11:08:52 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Stus-List West coast rendezvous
>
> I am planning on sailing to Desolation Sound in July and stopping at the
> Rendezvous on the way home to Seattle. If anyone wants to meet up somewhere
> or sail with me give me a shout. I could use crew as my girlfriend has to
> work, and won't be able to make the whole trip. She has to support me in
> the manner I wish to become accustomed to.
>
>  I plan on leaving seattle around the middle of July and returning the
> middle of August.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
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Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

2016-03-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Good news indeed.

We got the water on again at all the floats at the beginning of 
March. It usually gets done in the middle of March.
I suspect there will be a lot of boat washing activity this weekend 
at the Club.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Wet Coast, Canada

At 09:33 AM 18/03/2016, you wrote:

Dropped by my club today at noon and my finger pier is now in and 
waiting for me!  This is over one full month ahead of last year


Guess I had better get busy

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
I had mine redone  last year for my 33 mkII by Competition composite, Ontario. 
They re used the post and fabricated a new one using the original plan form of 
the rudder from C (ordered at the maritime museum) . The shape was slightly 
optimized by their designer since the blade could be a bit thinner.
 
The construction is: Divinicell foam core shaped to the foil design with a 
"computer assisted milling machine" then wrapped with fiberglass and epoxy 
resin. (vacuum bagged). It is ligher than original. : 
http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/
 
The construction seemed superior to me compared to "original" rudder sold by 
Southshore yacht and the price was lower including the shipping costs.
 
I'm very pleased with the result, the shape and finish is perfect and i have 
full confidence in the strenht of the blade. The feel at the helm is superb, i 
can see the difference with my older rudder than hab been repaired and had lost 
its symetrie. I d'ont feel any turbulence now. :)
 
So, a good experience on my side with the company. no affiliation.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII 87'
New Richmond, Qc.
 
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 12:22:16 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dainyr...@icloud.com; biker...@yahoo.com

While not on a 37/40, I replaced my rudder a long time ago on my LF38.  
Southshore Yachts made it for me...
Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:14 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
wrote:

Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?Got a 
decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing the pros and 
cons.
-- 
Brian FryS/V La Neige1993 C 37/40XLHdG Maryland


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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread svpegasus38






I opt for the keel hauling. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Sean Richardson via CnC-ListDate: Thu, Mar 
17, 2016 11:03To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Sean Richardson;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)
Only three options I can see to deal with this. 1)     1) Those who wish to, 
continue to delete/ignoreDigest replies. Or better yet, just create a 
filter/rule to automatically chuckit in the bin.2)    2)  Stu removes the 
digest option altogether. 3)     3) Subject the offenders to a good 
Keelhauling. I prefer #3, but that’s probably because I’ve been hanging outover 
at SA far too much.    SeanLynx1980 C 27 MKIIIOttawa
On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 12:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Not an affront, but many of us never look in those digest emails, so you might 
not get much of an audience ;)JoeCoquina From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Brian Fry via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody) Guilty as 
charged, again.My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my 
shortcomings. I am trying my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max 
prop I did manage to get my return email address changed, put a signature line 
in the bottom, and delete the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject 
line.So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.  Message: 10
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
From: Russ & Melody 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
Message-ID:
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
subject line instead of reading them.

So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!

Stu 
 -- Brian FryS/V La Neige1993 C 37/40XLHdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
While not on a 37/40, I replaced my rudder a long time ago on my LF38.  
Southshore Yachts made it for me...

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:14 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?
> Got a decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing the 
> pros and cons.
> 
> -- 
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I too elected to get the rope.  The nice thing is that it is easily removed
and replaced/reduced/increased.  It is also more flexible so it will not
hold a shape and will articulate with the sail fabric betted.  Just my
observations and opinion.  I've had 1 new sails with foam,  an old sail
with rope and a new sail with rope.

The rope or the foam is designed to take up the belly of the sail when its
fuelled.  Without it the sail will act as though it is blown out while
close hulled.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 17, 2016 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and
> would like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a
> foam luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
> be ideal.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
who cares
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 1:22 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Guilty as charged, again.
> My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my shortcomings. I am
> trying my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did manage
> to get my return email address changed, put a signature line in the bottom,
> and delete the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.
> So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.
>
>
>>
>> Message: 10
>> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
>> From: Russ & Melody 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>>
>>
>> Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
>> Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
>> subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
>> subject line instead of reading them.
>>
>> So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!
>>
>> Stu
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

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Re: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt

2016-03-19 Thread airdale143--- via CnC-List
How does one contact Gerry?

-- Original Message --
From: Stu via CnC-List 
To: "C Email List" 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2016 10:26:22 -0500


Gerry Giles has just completed his conversion of a C Mega to what he calls a 
âMega Putt Puttâ�. This is not the first time a Mega has 
been converted â in fact we are still looking for the original. 
See what Gerry has done at:  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/other/mega_putt_putt/ 
Stu

nowbuzzing
You Won’t Believe These Moments Caught on Camera
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/56eb49f96ee2249f91e67st03duc___

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Re: Stus-List Mertec folding prop removal

2016-03-19 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Actually, I did it in Pensacola.  Need to watch for sharks there. :)

However, on the subject of alligators, I was coming in off the lake
yesterday and there was a 10-12 footer sunning himself near the start of my
marina.  I'll send you pics off list.  I might re-think diving the boat in
the marina to clean the bottom this spring.  :)

Dennis C.

On Tue, Mar 15, 2016 at 11:29 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, if you did this underwater where you sail, isn't that like
> trolling for alligators???
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 15, 2016 9:33 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Mertec folding prop removal
>
> I removed mine underwater with the method below.
>
> Insert a 3/8" extension in the square hole in the prop nut.  Attach a
> ratchet or handle.  Twist it counterclockwise.  The Cotter key through the
> hub and prop nut will shear and the nut will come out.  After that, a gear
> puller should remove the hub.  Once the hub and nut are off, remove all of
> the sheared pieces of the key with a small punch.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List List Management

2016-03-19 Thread David Miles via CnC-List
Thx Stu.
Appreciate your work and the effort you put in. I find this VERY helpful as a 
new C owner.
I the people have been great and very helpful too. Great group.
 
Best regards,
 
David Miles
Impule
1988 C
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: March-18-16 11:13 AM
To: C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List List Management
 
I did not realize how many people were getting the postings in Digest Format 
until I checked the subscribers’ list.  There are quite a few and many of them 
are using Yahoo, Hotmail and Gmail email addresses.
 
Maybe part of the problems with Gmail are that when replying to a message, it 
does not appear that you can trim the message or change the subject line.
 
After a bit of searching, I found the solution:
·  Log in to Google Mail using your username and password. 
·  Click the mail conversation you want to reply to with an edited subject or 
to trim the message. 
·  In the textbox with the message “Click here to Reply or Forward,” click 
“Reply.” 
·  To the left of the name of the person you are replying to, click the 
dropdown arrow. A pop-up menu appears. 
·  From the pop-up menu, click “Edit subject.” Gmail’s new compose/reply window 
will appear for you to type your reply. 
·  To edit the subject, click the cursor into the subject field and make the 
desired changes.  
 
I don’t know if Yahoo and Hotmail are the same or not.
 
There could be other web-based email programs that prevent changing the subject 
line or trimming messages.  Maybe one of our members can help out there.
 
I can’t change much in the list mailing software, but I have made some changes:
a) digests will be smaller is size – so you might get more than 1 a day 
depending on traffic on the list
b) the actual size of messages to be sent has been decreased.  So if you do not 
trim your messages, they may get rejected.
 
In a previous message, some one asked “Who cares?”.  The answer is ME!  I 
own, maintain and pay for the list.  So, when you are in my playground, you 
play by my rules.
 
Stu
  

 
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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

2016-03-19 Thread David Blair via CnC-List
Did that on a 30 Mk ii a few years ago – centered the opening over the dipstick 
and fuel pump areas.  Easy to do, being careful to avoid hoses on the other 
side. Used a screw in access port about 6” diameter – could have been larger.  
Boat sold now so no pics, sorry..

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2016 11:44 AM
To: C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

 

To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s, 

 

I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side of 
the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? If so, 
could you send photos? 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 





   

 






 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Think of the money saved in slip fees and haul-outs!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 7:58 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Why?

 Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never got a 
chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers overstating 
the length of their designs, why did C understate the length of their 37+"?  
I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not use the LOA like 
almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List Windows again

2016-03-19 Thread Dreuge via CnC-List
It sounds like you may have old Lexan(polycarbonate) for the fixed ports.  

Lexan is stronger (i.e. bullet proof) so often the lens thickness is less than 
what would be used for acrylic.   Lexan is easier to work with and will flex 
better around curved cabin tops.   It also does not chip or crack as easily as 
acrylic, but it is softer so it will scratch up easier.  Basic Lexan also 
degrades from UV more so that acrylic, but recent manufactures are now adding 
UV stabilizers and scratch resistant coating to polycarbonate (for example: 
Bayer Makrolon polycarbonate).   The price for polycarbonate has also dropped 
significantly in recent years.  But acrylic still has better UV longevity. 

Most all acrylic these days purchased at local glass shops are manufactured 
with both UV stabilizers and absorbers(the later blocking the transmission of 
UV light).  A quick search at McMaster-Carr shows many flavors of acrylic: 
Antistatic, Scratch-resistant, UV-Resistant, Strengthened UV-Resistant, and 
even Mirrored.

Here is the link:   http://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic/=11kwa0t


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Mar 17, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 11:15:35 -0400
> From: cenel...@aol.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Windows again
> Message-ID: <15385256a6c-79e9-5...@webprd-m70.mail.aol.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> I have begun the process of replacing the ~ 15 year old fixed windows on 
> Water Phantom. They have been leaking for awhile and are severely crazed--so 
> much as to be opaque.
> 
> Interestingly, when they were replaced I also replaced all the Lewmar opening 
> ports and none of these ports show any crazing--the acrylic/lexan (not sure 
> which is used in Lewmar's stuff) looks like new.
> 
> I'd like to avoid a repeat of this crazing on my new windows and wonder if 
> the list has some advice on the specific kind of acrylic or lexan to use for 
> the windows to minimize this in the future.
> 
> I am going with 3/8" bronzed acrylic but wonder if there is a specific type 
> that is recommended since there appear to be several different grades of 
> acrylic with different inhibitors, etc.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Ken Heaton via CnC-List
By 1993 C corrected that mistake and called (and marketed) the boat as
the C 40 Series.  They even changed the number in the HIN (Hull Id.
Number) from 37 to 40 that year.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/40foot/40b3pg01.htm

Ken H.

On 18 March 2016 at 08:57, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never
> got a chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers
> overstating the length of their designs, why did C understate the length
> of their 37+"?  I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not
> use the LOA like almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
My foam luff never collapsed in 12 years of my use and the sail was 20 years 
old when I retired it.

Bob Boyer


Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Mar 17, 2016, at 4:58 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam. His 
> thinking is that the line will never collapse. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
> like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam luff. 
>  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that regardless of 
> the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

2016-03-19 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Mike,

I did 3 coats of epoxy.  Used thinner between coats.  I'd use thinner
between coats of varnish too.

I don't know what Ephiphanes recommends for the number of coats. I used
Cetol natural x 3.   I imagine that's the minimum you would apply.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Windows again

2016-03-19 Thread Charlie Nelson via CnC-List

I have begun the process of replacing the ~ 15 year old fixed windows on Water 
Phantom. They have been leaking for awhile and are severely crazed--so much as 
to be opaque.
 
Interestingly, when they were replaced I also replaced all the Lewmar opening 
ports and none of these ports show any crazing--the acrylic/lexan (not sure 
which is used in Lewmar's stuff) looks like new.

I'd like to avoid a repeat of this crazing on my new windows and wonder if the 
list has some advice on the specific kind of acrylic or lexan to use for the 
windows to minimize this in the future.

I am going with 3/8" bronzed acrylic but wonder if there is a specific type 
that is recommended since there appear to be several different grades of 
acrylic with different inhibitors, etc.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb


 
cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

2016-03-19 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
I agree with Dwight.

What would you do with all your spare time each Spring if you didn’t have teak 
handrails to sand and refinish?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

teak handrails are better, they just look right on a classic Cuthhbertson design

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks back and 
noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried them? They do 
carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's also a company in 
Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the day, I think someone 
mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders.
Brad
"Pulse" C 33 MkII
Lake Huron

I'd rather be sailing


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Re: Stus-List List Management

2016-03-19 Thread Randy Stafford via CnC-List
Seconded. Very valuable resource. Thanks for everything Stu. 

Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "David Miles via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "David Miles"  
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 12:22:28 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List List Management 



Thx Stu. 

Appreciate your work and the effort you put in. I find this VERY helpful as a 
new C owner. 

I the people have been great and very helpful too. Great group. 




Best regards, 



David Miles 

Impule 

1988 C 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List 
Sent: March-18-16 11:13 AM 
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List List Management 





I did not realize how many people were getting the postings in Digest Format 
until I checked the subscribers’ list. There are quite a few and many of them 
are using Yahoo, Hotmail and Gmail email addresses. 





Maybe part of the problems with Gmail are that when replying to a message, it 
does not appear that you can trim the message or change the subject line. 





After a bit of searching, I found the solution: 


· Log in to Google Mail using your username and password. 

· Click the mail conversation you want to reply to with an edited subject or to 
trim the message. 

· In the textbox with the message “Click here to Reply or Forward,” click 
“Reply.” 

· To the left of the name of the person you are replying to, click the dropdown 
arrow. A pop-up menu appears. 

· From the pop-up menu, click “Edit subject.” Gmail’s new compose/reply window 
will appear for you to type your reply. 

· To edit the subject, click the cursor into the subject field and make the 
desired changes. 





I don’t know if Yahoo and Hotmail are the same or not. 





There could be other web-based email programs that prevent changing the subject 
line or trimming messages. Maybe one of our members can help out there. 





I can’t change much in the list mailing software, but I have made some changes: 


a) digests will be smaller is size – so you might get more than 1 a day 
depending on traffic on the list 


b) the actual size of messages to be sent has been decreased. So if you do not 
trim your messages, they may get rejected. 





In a previous message, some one asked “Who cares?”. The answer is ME! I 
own, maintain and pay for the list. So, when you are in my playground, you play 
by my rules. 





Stu 




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Re: Stus-List 37+ Why?

2016-03-19 Thread Gary Russell via CnC-List

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 9:38 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here is a shot of the Enterprise at the Mystic Seaport Museum:
> https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/882365_222167627908097_1707433058_o.jpg
>
>
> … and here is a shot of Rob Ball checking her out:
> http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QBvBegS9zXA/UG2olsTiAcI/BnU/UrjYO2tFsOs/s1600/Ball.png
>
>
> We are still not sure what he was thinking in the photo. Was it:
>
> 1. Hot damn, I designed a really nice boat;
> 2. If only she was as fast as she looks;
> 3. So this is the boat from the blog I keep hearing about; or
> 4. What did this Star Trek geek freak do to my design?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 8:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> I asked him at the C Rendezvous in Mystic back in 2012 (we are going
> again -- see cncnortheast.com).
>
> Rob initially designed a 37 foot boat with a practically vertical bow and
> stern (much like a J) and in just about every way, it is a 37 foot boat.
>
> But the look kept bugging him. So, and I quote, he "put $40 of fiberglass
> onto the bow and another $40 of fiberglass into the stern."  Same is true
> for the 34 series.
>
> The marketing department didn't want to change the name, so it stayed 37
> (and 34) for a while (adding R, XL or +). Eventually they started calling
> it the 37/40 and then after the "40 Series".
>
> It does save a bit on dock fees and winter storage to call it a 37 :-)
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 7:57 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Many of us have met the designer of the 37+ (Rob Ball), but I never
> got a chance to ask him this question.   With many yacht manufacturers
> overstating the length of their designs, why did C understate the length
> of their 37+"?  I know the 37 feet is the length on deck, but still why not
> use the LOA like almost every one else?  Has anyone ever asked Rob Ball?
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
> _
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
In my opinion, a 150 is too much sail for a LF38 in most conditions.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Mar 17, 2016, at 9:21 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Have to agree.  For my area, I’ve been a huge fan of 120 + main for cruising. 
>  On a landfall the 135 may be the better option and I would probably pass on 
> either foam or rope. I’m basing that on the assumption that the landfall will 
> reef later than most but I’ve never sailed one so don’t really know.  At 150 
> I would definitely go with something to take up the extra fabric but would 
> let the sailmaker decide between the two options.  Both work well so it’s 
> whatever they’re more comfortable with.
> 
> Just another $0.02
> 
> John
> 
> 
>> On Mar 17, 2016, at 8:43 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> get the foam luff if you intend to sail with the jib
>> furled...otherwise get a 110% and enjoy sailing
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 1:30 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>>  wrote:
>>> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would
>>> like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam
>>> luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
>>> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
>>> be ideal.
>>> 
>>> Thoughts?
>>> 
>>> — Fred
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
>>> of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> 

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Stus-List Stainless grab rails (Josh Muckley)

2016-03-19 Thread Brian Fry via CnC-List
Talked with Mike. Price is $422 for the pair + delivery.



> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 03:43:37 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacrboj6+7abm133duwf+7m8mbxp_mr062qj0yphhvopo...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sorry white water marine can be found here:
>
> http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com
>
> I was working with Mike and if you reference my project it might ease the
> engineering.
>
> m...@whitewatermarineinc.com
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list.
> Very reasonable to work with.   I can't remember if it was $200 each or
> total for the pair.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

2016-03-19 Thread Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Go sailing?

;-)

Ken H.

On 18 March 2016 at 09:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I agree with Dwight.
>
>
>
> What would you do with all your spare time each Spring if you didn’t have
> teak handrails to sand and refinish?
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:41 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
>
>
>
> teak handrails are better, they just look right on a classic Cuthhbertson
> design
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks
> back and noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried
> them? They do carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's
> also a company in Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the
> day, I think someone mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders.
>
> Brad
>
> "Pulse" C 33 MkII
>
> Lake Huron
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Fwd: Head engine access

2016-03-19 Thread Brian Fry via CnC-List
I posted pics and description on my FB blog:
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

Feel free to ask questions
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread Sean Richardson via CnC-List
Only three options I can see to deal with this.



1) 1) Those who wish to, continue to delete/ignore Digest replies. Or
better yet, just create a filter/rule to automatically chuck it in the bin.

2)2)  Stu removes the digest option altogether.

3) 3) Subject the offenders to a good Keelhauling.



I prefer #3, but that’s probably because I’ve been hanging out over at SA
far too much.





Sean

Lynx

1980 C 27 MKIII

Ottawa

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 12:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not an affront, but many of us never look in those digest emails, so you
> might not get much of an audience ;)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Fry via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:23 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Fry
> *Subject:* Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)
>
>
>
> Guilty as charged, again.
>
> My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my shortcomings. I am
> trying my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did manage
> to get my return email address changed, put a signature line in the bottom,
> and delete the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.
>
> So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
> Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
> subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
> subject line instead of reading them.
>
> So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!
>
> Stu
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Brian Fry
>
> S/V La Neige
>
> 1993 C 37/40XL
>
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

2016-03-19 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
teak handrails are better, they just look right on a classic Cuthhbertson
design

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks
> back and noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried
> them? They do carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's
> also a company in Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the
> day, I think someone mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders.
> Brad
> "Pulse" C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

2016-03-19 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
Thank the ground hog!

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dropped by my club today at noon and my finger pier is now in and waiting for 
> me!  This is over one full month ahead of last year
>  
> Guess I had better get busy
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

2016-03-19 Thread Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Doing the research about replacement/repair and different profiles of rudders i 
became quite obsessed with the importance of the design and precision of the 
profile (ref. NACA profiles).
 
So a DIY job was quickly out of question. The boat is not a 40 kts foiler but i 
do race the boat and wanted a nice rudder.
 
The small local yard quote was over 2500$ for a complete rebuild, that would 
have been very ok, but still an eyeball job. At this point i decided to go all 
the way crazy and give the job to the pros. Don't regret it, i almost cried 
when i opened the box it was so beutiful!
 
There is a lot of good info on their website, even a video of the fabrication 
process.
 
I have now a keel fairing job on my to do list, but not a priority at this 
point.
 
Bruno Lachance
C 33mkII 87' Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc
 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:55:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@bellaliant.net





Thanks for the info about your rudder replacement,Bruno. Good company to 
keep in mind if I ever need to do mine.  Better to deal with a Canadian 
company with our dollar being so low right now.
 
Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

2016-03-19 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
Good eats?

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 1:00 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When the groundhog stuck his head out of the hole this year I shot him. 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
> Pennie via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 1:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Pennie
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Docks are in!
>  
> Thank the ground hog!
>  
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dropped by my club today at noon and my finger pier is now in and waiting for 
> me!  This is over one full month ahead of last year
>  
> Guess I had better get busy
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Crack in Keel

2016-03-19 Thread mike amirault via CnC-List
The sump on a  C 33MKii is very deep so I would say that crack is at the 
bottom of the stub.  Nothing to worry about; just grind it out and fair the 
crack with compound suitable for below the water line.

Mike Amirault
C 33ii  Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS___

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