Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Simple Green works well, but can apparently etch aluminum. I'm leaning more
towards kerosene these days.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 17 January 2017 at 16:48, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1 on Fred’s suggestion.  But make sure you’re working in a well
> ventilated area and use gloves.  Brake cleaners aren’t the healthiest
> solvents in the world…
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Frederick
> G Street via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 17, 2017 7:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?
>
>
>
> Joel — I’ve used this stuff before, and it’s worked well — also
> non-flammable:
>
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-Brake-Parts-Cleaner/dp/B000LDR9HI
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> On Jan 17, 2017, at 2:15 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Although kerosene is flammable, it is still safe to use in a garage.  I
> did my winches that way.  The fumes are not volatile like gasoline fumes.
> Just don't be near an open flame.  Let the parts soak for a while, before
> you scrub with a tooth brush or wire brush.  When the parts are clean, wash
> the kerosene off with soapy water, before re-lubing the winch.  Use the
> minimum amount of winch grease, and only light oil on the pawls.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service
> (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused
> to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and
> acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.
>
>
>
> The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable
> solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and
> kerosene are out.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

+1 on Fred’s suggestion.  But make sure you’re working in a well ventilated 
area and use gloves.  Brake cleaners aren’t the healthiest solvents in the 
world…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 7:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

 

Joel — I’ve used this stuff before, and it’s worked well — also non-flammable:

 

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-Brake-Parts-Cleaner/dp/B000LDR9HI

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Jan 17, 2017, at 2:15 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

Although kerosene is flammable, it is still safe to use in a garage.  I did my 
winches that way.  The fumes are not volatile like gasoline fumes.  Just don't 
be near an open flame.  Let the parts soak for a while, before you scrub with a 
tooth brush or wire brush.  When the parts are clean, wash the kerosene off 
with soapy water, before re-lubing the winch.  Use the minimum amount of winch 
grease, and only light oil on the pawls.

 

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service (about 
25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused to the 
aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and acetone, 
along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.

 

The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable solvent I 
can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and kerosene are out.

 

Joel

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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've used Simple Green to remove winch grease.  Not as quick as a petroleum
based solvent but will eventually do it.

I usually use it to clean the winch parts AFTER I've removed the grease
with mineral spirits but it should work from the start.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 1:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service
> (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused
> to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and
> acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.
>
> The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable
> solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and
> kerosene are out.
>
> Joel
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I clean winches in the garage or on the boat using Diesel fuel or old Kerosene. 
I use an acid brush to wipe the gears and wipe off gunk with terry cloth (old 
face cloths) and final wipe off of solvent using cotton cloth (old tee shirt).

Chuck S


> On January 17, 2017 at 3:15 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Although kerosene is flammable, it is still safe to use in a garage.  I 
> did my winches that way.  The fumes are not volatile like gasoline fumes.  
> Just don't be near an open flame.  Let the parts soak for a while, before you 
> scrub with a tooth brush or wire brush.  When the parts are clean, wash the 
> kerosene off with soapy water, before re-lubing the winch.  Use the minimum 
> amount of winch grease, and only light oil on the pawls.
> 
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are 
> overdue for service (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as 
> the bolts had fused to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB 
> Blaster, vinegar and acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them 
> off.
> > 
> > The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable 
> > solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and 
> > kerosene are out.
> > 
> > Joel
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vxTELKUm951Y3xTx8v_t_dNwN_Az7AFW6Ruzb6LMWzA=w0DMGcy3dbjItJ-qQ07XC6wQy40_hsePQ96Ikf1Mgog=
> >  
> > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vxTELKUm951Y3xTx8v_t_dNwN_Az7AFW6Ruzb6LMWzA=w0DMGcy3dbjItJ-qQ07XC6wQy40_hsePQ96Ikf1Mgog=
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
> 
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel — I’ve used this stuff before, and it’s worked well — also non-flammable:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-Brake-Parts-Cleaner/dp/B000LDR9HI 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 17, 2017, at 2:15 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Although kerosene is flammable, it is still safe to use in a garage.  I did 
> my winches that way.  The fumes are not volatile like gasoline fumes.  Just 
> don't be near an open flame.  Let the parts soak for a while, before you 
> scrub with a tooth brush or wire brush.  When the parts are clean, wash the 
> kerosene off with soapy water, before re-lubing the winch.  Use the minimum 
> amount of winch grease, and only light oil on the pawls.
> 
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service 
> (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused 
> to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and 
> acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.
> 
> The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable solvent I 
> can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and kerosene are out.
> 
> Joel
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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 Bow Hatch Replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Brandon,

Are you in a hurry?  Maybe this is something we can ponder together.  I'll
be out in Colorado skiing until mid-Feb.  Maybe we can get together after
that.

I've given this a bit of thought but always decided the curvature of the
cabin top would be a challenge.

Defiance has an acrylic lens but a wooden frame.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 2:53 PM, Brandon Gaspard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm looking to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1.  Dimensions are
> 21.625" X 25.375" OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID.  Any suggestions on what to replace
> it with?  I can't seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider
> removing the "lip" the old hatch fit over?  Or should i epoxy in an
> additional spacer to get the frame down to a standard size, say maybe the
> Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or similar?  Or should I just build a new hatch
> out of fiberglass and wood frame like the original that's on the boat?  I'd
> prefer something that's going to be water tight, obviously.  and it would
> be nice to have some light coming through.
>
> Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 Bow Hatch Replacement

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

In the Toronto area, lots of folks go to hammerhead for hatch parts and 
refurbs. I haven't dealt with them personally but have recommendations from 
friends that have. 
Hammerhead Nautical Systems | Hatch & Portlight Repair

  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
Hammerhead Nautical Systems | Hatch & Portlight Repair
   |   |

  |

  |

 
Doug WelchCeltic Knot33-2 cb


On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 4:35 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 The monster hatch on my 42 sits on a wooden frame installed around the deck 
opening.  I assume it was done this way to obviate the need to make the opening 
the perfect size for the hatch.  The wooden frame may also serve to level the 
surface for mounting the hatch. I should note that the 42 was built in the 
custom shop and was not a production boat.  The deck on the 35-1 may have been 
constructed to accommodate a particular hatch. From: Brandon Gaspard via 
CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 3:53 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: 
Brandon Gaspard Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 Bow Hatch Replacement I'm looking 
to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1.  Dimensions are 21.625" X 25.375" 
OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID.  Any suggestions on what to replace it with?  I can't 
seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider removing the "lip" the old 
hatch fit over?  Or should i epoxy in an additional spacer to get the frame 
down to a standard size, say maybe the Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or similar?  
Or should I just build a new hatch out of fiberglass and wood frame like the 
original that's on the boat?  I'd prefer something that's going to be water 
tight, obviously.  and it would be nice to have some light coming through.

Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations.
___

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   ___

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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 Bow Hatch Replacement

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

The monster hatch on my 42 sits on a wooden frame installed around the deck 
opening.  I assume it was done this way to obviate the need to make the opening 
the perfect size for the hatch.  The wooden frame may also serve to level the 
surface for mounting the hatch.

I should note that the 42 was built in the custom shop and was not a production 
boat.  The deck on the 35-1 may have been constructed to accommodate a 
particular hatch.

From: Brandon Gaspard via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 3:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brandon Gaspard 
Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 Bow Hatch Replacement

I'm looking to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1.  Dimensions are 
21.625" X 25.375" OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID.  Any suggestions on what to replace it 
with?  I can't seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider removing the 
"lip" the old hatch fit over?  Or should i epoxy in an additional spacer to get 
the frame down to a standard size, say maybe the Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or 
similar?  Or should I just build a new hatch out of fiberglass and wood frame 
like the original that's on the boat?  I'd prefer something that's going to be 
water tight, obviously.  and it would be nice to have some light coming through.

Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations.




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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 37

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Isn't Varsol just paint thinner?  Looks like it off the market

Joel

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 3:18 PM, bruce via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Cleaning winches, what about Varsol?
> Bruce
> C C 27 Asterie
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 3:16 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 37
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
> "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bow Hatch Replacement

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Brandon:

My previous boat, an Ericson 30, had wood framed hatches.  I replaced them
with Bomar hatches, and removed some of the fiberglass to which the old
hatches were mounted.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

I'm looking to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1.  Dimensions are
21.625" X 25.375" OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID.  Any suggestions on what to replace
it with?  I can't seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider
removing the "lip" the old hatch fit over?  Or should i epoxy in an
additional spacer to get the frame down to a standard size, say maybe the
Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or similar?  Or should I just build a new hatch
out of fiberglass and wood frame like the original that's on the boat?  I'd
prefer something that's going to be water tight, obviously.  and it would
be nice to have some light coming through.

Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations.
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List C 35 Mk1 Bow Hatch Replacement

[Brandon Gaspard via CnC-List]

I'm looking to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1.  Dimensions are 
21.625" X 25.375" OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID.  Any suggestions on what to replace it 
with?  I can't seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider removing the 
"lip" the old hatch fit over?  Or should i epoxy in an additional spacer to get 
the frame down to a standard size, say maybe the Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or 
similar?  Or should I just build a new hatch out of fiberglass and wood frame 
like the original that's on the boat?  I'd prefer something that's going to be 
water tight, obviously.  and it would be nice to have some light coming through.

Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations.
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 37

[bruce via CnC-List]

Cleaning winches, what about Varsol?
Bruce 
C C 27 Asterie

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 3:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 37

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Although kerosene is flammable, it is still safe to use in a garage.  I did
my winches that way.  The fumes are not volatile like gasoline fumes.  Just
don't be near an open flame.  Let the parts soak for a while, before you
scrub with a tooth brush or wire brush.  When the parts are clean, wash the
kerosene off with soapy water, before re-lubing the winch.  Use the minimum
amount of winch grease, and only light oil on the pawls.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service
> (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused
> to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and
> acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.
>
> The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable
> solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and
> kerosene are out.
>
> Joel
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> vxTELKUm951Y3xTx8v_t_dNwN_Az7AFW6Ruzb6LMWzA=w0DMGcy3dbjItJ-qQ07XC6wQy40_
> hsePQ96Ikf1Mgog=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Disregard my last post. The Zep Purple degreaser is flammable. I 
confused it with this non-flammable degreaser:




Bill Bina


On 1/17/2017 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for 
service (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the 
bolts had fused to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB 
Blaster, vinegar and acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got 
them off.


The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable 
solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and 
kerosene are out.


Joel





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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bill Bina



On 1/17/2017 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for 
service (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the 
bolts had fused to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB 
Blaster, vinegar and acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got 
them off.


The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable 
solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and 
kerosene are out.


Joel



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Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service
(about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused
to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and
acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.

The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable solvent
I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and kerosene are
out.

Joel
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Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Boatyards are a different animal in Florida for a couple of reasons.

First is that almost no one stores boats in boat yards because of the weather 
and because waterfront property is too expensive to make it work economically.

To make a boat yard profitable, there has to be a steady turnover of vessels 
and enough repairs so tradesmen will pay the yard big bucks to locate in the 
yard. The rigger in the corner of the yard will get much of the mast work, for 
example.

In many yards, you are required to use the in-house tradesmen and you are not 
allowed to do any significant work yourself.

Another reason for this is environmental. Florida gets much of its drinking 
water from aquifers a few feet below the surface. Sloppy amateur work pollutes 
the aquifers with sanded off bottom paint, for example.

There are still a few yards that allow DIY, but they are disappearing. The one 
I plan to use this spring allows you to do your projects as long as they paint 
the bottom.

It's not a bad deal, actually. You used to have to buy the bottom paint at a 
huge markup. The current price for a bottom job is only a couple of hundred 
more, and they do all the nasty work.

Jack Brennan
Tierra Verde, Fl.
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30








Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date:01/16/2017  10:36 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36 

H...Louisiana is a fairly litigious state with Napaleonic law and a 
powerful trial lawyers group but they haven't reached deeply in unstepping a 
rig.  Some folks around my area hire a tow truck with a boom crane.  Yup, tow 
truck.  They usually charge a lot less than a real crane + operator.

Dennis C,
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 7:25 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Right you are Dwight, but the marina in Florida is insurance crazy and skill 
short when it comes to sailboat rigs. They insist that boat owners hire a 
"professional rigger" to assist with unstepping or stepping a mast. My plan is 
to improve the  situation for now, and unstep the mast to fix the step and a 
few other things when I get to a place that has a better attitude and maybe a 
crane. Everyone in our sailing club on Lake Erie unsteps their mast every year, 
so it is a little hard to relate to people who insist that it is such a big 
deal just because they don't do it much themselves.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C
Merritt Island, FL

 dwight veinot via CnC-List  wrote:
Good luck Steve...I think it would be a much easier fix with the mast out
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 1:17 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> Whatever is supporting the mast step on my 1980 C project boat has sunk 
> by 1/2 to 1.0 inch, and the mast is pulling down on the cabin top. There is 
> no visible sign of rot in the wood and fibreglass cross members at either 
> end, and I am planning to attempt to put an aluminum plate shim underneath. 
> The step box is constructed of anodized aluminum about a half an inch thick, 
> and the bottom plate extends forward forming a shelf through which 2 bolts or 
> lag screws hold it in place. There are no other visible mechanical fasteners.
> Judging from all the talk over the years about mast steps, I am guessing that 
> someone on the list has removed a similar box on a similar if not identical 
> boat. What did you find? Were there other fasteners? Was the fibreglass 
> holding it down? Any issues getting it loose? What is underneath that not 
> obvious?
> I am hoping to do this without unstepping the mast, but just jacking it up a 
> bit.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Thomas
> C 36
> Merritt Island, FL
>


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Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36

[Glenn Gambel via CnC-List]

I have a 1981 C 36, and it is keel stepped, not deck stepped.  Even if 
your mast is keel stepped and you were some how going to raise it a bit 
without completely removing it, I would suggest that the process would 
be risky.  Better to take it out and investigate the problem completely. 
 May be a smarter and safer way to go in the long run.  In addition, you 
get the opportunity to check out all of the rigging, wiring, etc. and 
service or replace what is needed.  Just my thoughts.


Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
C 36

-- Original Message --
From: "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Steve Thomas" 
Sent: 1/16/2017 8:25:59 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36

Right you are Dwight, but the marina in Florida is insurance crazy and 
skill short when it comes to sailboat rigs. They insist that boat 
owners hire a "professional rigger" to assist with unstepping or 
stepping a mast. My plan is to improve the  situation for now, and 
unstep the mast to fix the step and a few other things when I get to a 
place that has a better attitude and maybe a crane. Everyone in our 
sailing club on Lake Erie unsteps their mast every year, so it is a 
little hard to relate to people who insist that it is such a big deal 
just because they don't do it much themselves.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C
Merritt Island, FL

 dwight veinot via CnC-List  wrote:
Good luck Steve...I think it would be a much easier fix with the mast 
out

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 1:17 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List
 wrote:


 Whatever is supporting the mast step on my 1980 C project boat 
has sunk by 1/2 to 1.0 inch, and the mast is pulling down on the cabin 
top. There is no visible sign of rot in the wood and fibreglass cross 
members at either end, and I am planning to attempt to put an aluminum 
plate shim underneath. The step box is constructed of anodized 
aluminum about a half an inch thick, and the bottom plate extends 
forward forming a shelf through which 2 bolts or lag screws hold it in 
place. There are no other visible mechanical fasteners.
 Judging from all the talk over the years about mast steps, I am 
guessing that someone on the list has removed a similar box on a 
similar if not identical boat. What did you find? Were there other 
fasteners? Was the fibreglass holding it down? Any issues getting it 
loose? What is underneath that not obvious?
 I am hoping to do this without unstepping the mast, but just jacking 
it up a bit.


 Thanks,
 Steve Thomas
 C 36
 Merritt Island, FL




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Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

To all,

thanks very much for your input.  As always, it's very helpful.


Fair Winds,


Pete W.

'91 C

Deltaville, Va.
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