Re: Stus-List Spreaders

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

While on this topic I just removed spreader boots to reveal major corrosion on 
upper starboard spreader ☹
I have a 1982, CnC 37  do I need to get a pair ? where do I get these South 
Marine?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 2, 2018 1:03:00 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreaders

The 37/40 XL mast is an Offshore Spars mast: 
http://www.offshorespars.com/

Mine come out with a few taps with a soft hammer.  Be sure to slide something 
in in place of each spreader bar as you remove it so the halyards, etc. inside 
the mast will remain on the correct side of the spreader bar when you reinsert 
it.  From the Owner's Manual:

"The aerodynamic spreaders are secured to the mast via machined, continuous 
aluminum spreader bars. They precisely fit the spreader bases and traverse the 
mast and along with separate support bars carry the compression loads exerted 
by the shrouds."

Ken H.




On 2 April 2018 at 13:48, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I have the mast down and have noticed a different angle on my starboard 
spreaders compared to the port.
A few questions:
Does anyone know the brand used in the 37/40?
How do you remove the spreader base which goes.through the mast?

La Neige
1993 37/40 xl
Brian Fry

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Danny

You are adding it to the edge of the plywood?  A nail won't do much there, and 
it may split the plys apart.  I'd just glue it with epoxy.  If you really feel 
the need to make the joint stronger you should get a biscuit joiner.  The 
resulting joint is much stronger, uses a wooden biscuit to make the joint - so 
no corrosion issues.  Not visible after assembly.  
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-02 11:41 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Ok, I think I'm going to go with the Bronze Silicon screws given the the very 
moist environment.  I am actively trying to chase down all the sources of water 
in the bilge but, until then...  As I understand it, SS doesn't really like 
like an environment that could be wet with little oxygen and suffers crevice 
corrosion.

I have another question in reference to this same project.  I'll be adding a 
solid 1/2 x 1 piece of teak to the edge of the T plywood to frame out the 
bilge opening.  My plan is to epoxy it there and finish nail it in place.  I 
can't seem to find any bronze finish nails.  Would anyone have any advice as to 
the type of nail and material.  Currently I'm thinking my only option is a 
stainless finish nail.  My question is more of what size, should I pre-drill to 
avoid splitting the solid teak edging?  Actually any insight or advice at all 
will be appreciated.

After this project I plan on going to the Salon to get my hair done and then I 
reckon I'll jump on my mustang, called Ol Paint to mosey on over to the Saloon 
for a whiskey and few hands of poker...

Danny

On 3/28/2018 11:01 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think you'd be better off with Robertson, instead of the #2 Phillips drive.

Ken H.

On 28 March 2018 at 09:19, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:
HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my salon back 
together with them.

Thanks,

Danny


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Spreaders

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The 37/40 XL mast is an Offshore Spars mast: http://www.offshorespars.com/

Mine come out with a few taps with a soft hammer.  Be sure to slide
something in in place of each spreader bar as you remove it so the
halyards, etc. inside the mast will remain on the correct side of the
spreader bar when you reinsert it.  From the Owner's Manual:

"The aerodynamic spreaders are secured to the mast via machined, continuous
aluminum spreader bars. They precisely fit the spreader bases and traverse
the mast and along with separate support bars carry the compression loads
exerted by the shrouds."

Ken H.




On 2 April 2018 at 13:48, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have the mast down and have noticed a different angle on my starboard
> spreaders compared to the port.
> A few questions:
> Does anyone know the brand used in the 37/40?
> How do you remove the spreader base which goes.through the mast?
>
> La Neige
> 1993 37/40 xl
> Brian Fry
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Spreaders

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have the mast down and have noticed a different angle on my starboard
spreaders compared to the port.
A few questions:
Does anyone know the brand used in the 37/40?
How do you remove the spreader base which goes.through the mast?

La Neige
1993 37/40 xl
Brian Fry
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Filler hose elbow

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Tracy,

Please, let us know what item you purchased and how it worked.  I've been
eyeing the filler neck site also but don't need to replace now.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 2, 2018 at 11:39 AM, TL ROSS via CnC-List  wrote:

>  Yes I have now - I had seen it but was just hesitating to see if i could
> find an exact replacement here (and maybe save on shipping). But someone
> else mentioned it on the forum so I've gone through with it now.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tracy Ross
>
> oo...@yahoo.ca
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 2, 2018, 12:34:47 p.m. EDT, Morgan Ellis <
> mje.mjel...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Have you tried this site?
> https://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/
>
> Morgan Ellis
> SV Meandher 30-2
>
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2018, 12:04 TL ROSS via CnC-List, 
> wrote:
>
> Hi ! I have a 1971 C 35 Mk1 with an atomic 4 engine, lying Etobicoke,
> (near Toronto).  The gas fill hose disintegrated so I am replacing (with
> much swearing). The most challenging part is to find a replacement for the
> elbow that makes the 90 degree turn from the fill hose into the tank. The
> existing piece is a fuel stable soft rubber like material, (5"long, 1.5
> "ID) with MFHL 150 stamped on the outside, and a just barely visible EWCO
> written on the inside. It could be the original piece that C+C put in way
> back.  I have tried a hard plastic replacement without success. There is
> very little clearance between the top of the fill tube on the tank and the
> underside of the cockpit - I think I do need something flexible that I can
> squish over the tube coming in from the side and then down onto it, as this
> flexible piece did.  But I have not been able to track down a direct
> replacement. I've done a bit of searching online but I have not found the
> exact piece, nor have any idea if I could ever track something like this
> down from an automotive supplier.
>
> If anyone has experience with this, or tips on finding a replacement, I'd
> appreciate your thoughts. Need to get this sorted before launch!
> Blasted Auxiliary...
>
> Thanks
>
> Tracy Ross
> oo...@yahoo.ca
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Filler hose elbow

[TL ROSS via CnC-List]

 Yes I have now - I had seen it but was just hesitating to see if i could find 
an exact replacement here (and maybe save on shipping). But someone else 
mentioned it on the forum so I've gone through with it now. 
Thanks!

Tracy Ross

oo...@yahoo.ca

 
 

On Monday, April 2, 2018, 12:34:47 p.m. EDT, Morgan Ellis 
 wrote:  
 
 Have you tried this site? https://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/
Morgan Ellis SV Meandher 30-2

On Mon, Apr 2, 2018, 12:04 TL ROSS via CnC-List,  wrote:

Hi ! I have a 1971 C 35 Mk1 with an atomic 4 engine, lying Etobicoke, (near 
Toronto).  The gas fill hose disintegrated so I am replacing (with much 
swearing). The most challenging part is to find a replacement for the elbow 
that makes the 90 degree turn from the fill hose into the tank. The existing 
piece is a fuel stable soft rubber like material, (5"long, 1.5 "ID) with MFHL 
150 stamped on the outside, and a just barely visible EWCO written on the 
inside. It could be the original piece that C+C put in way back.  I have tried 
a hard plastic replacement without success. There is very little clearance 
between the top of the fill tube on the tank and the underside of the cockpit - 
I think I do need something flexible that I can squish over the tube coming in 
from the side and then down onto it, as this flexible piece did.  But I have 
not been able to track down a direct replacement. I've done a bit of searching 
online but I have not found the exact piece, nor have any idea if I could ever 
track something like this down from an automotive supplier. 
If anyone has experience with this, or tips on finding a replacement, I'd 
appreciate your thoughts. Need to get this sorted before launch! Blasted 
Auxiliary... Thanks
Tracy rossoo...@yahoo.ca
 
  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Filler hose elbow

[Morgan Ellis via CnC-List]

Have you tried this site?
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/

Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher 30-2

On Mon, Apr 2, 2018, 12:04 TL ROSS via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Hi ! I have a 1971 C 35 Mk1 with an atomic 4 engine, lying Etobicoke,
> (near Toronto).  The gas fill hose disintegrated so I am replacing (with
> much swearing). The most challenging part is to find a replacement for the
> elbow that makes the 90 degree turn from the fill hose into the tank. The
> existing piece is a fuel stable soft rubber like material, (5"long, 1.5
> "ID) with MFHL 150 stamped on the outside, and a just barely visible EWCO
> written on the inside. It could be the original piece that C+C put in way
> back.  I have tried a hard plastic replacement without success. There is
> very little clearance between the top of the fill tube on the tank and the
> underside of the cockpit - I think I do need something flexible that I can
> squish over the tube coming in from the side and then down onto it, as this
> flexible piece did.  But I have not been able to track down a direct
> replacement. I've done a bit of searching online but I have not found the
> exact piece, nor have any idea if I could ever track something like this
> down from an automotive supplier.
>
> If anyone has experience with this, or tips on finding a replacement, I'd
> appreciate your thoughts. Need to get this sorted before launch!
> Blasted Auxiliary...
>
> Thanks
>
> Tracy Ross
> oo...@yahoo.ca
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fuel Filler hose elbow

[TL ROSS via CnC-List]

Hi ! I have a 1971 C 35 Mk1 with an atomic 4 engine, lying Etobicoke, (near 
Toronto).  The gas fill hose disintegrated so I am replacing (with much 
swearing). The most challenging part is to find a replacement for the elbow 
that makes the 90 degree turn from the fill hose into the tank. The existing 
piece is a fuel stable soft rubber like material, (5"long, 1.5 "ID) with MFHL 
150 stamped on the outside, and a just barely visible EWCO written on the 
inside. It could be the original piece that C+C put in way back.  I have tried 
a hard plastic replacement without success. There is very little clearance 
between the top of the fill tube on the tank and the underside of the cockpit - 
I think I do need something flexible that I can squish over the tube coming in 
from the side and then down onto it, as this flexible piece did.  But I have 
not been able to track down a direct replacement. I've done a bit of searching 
online but I have not found the exact piece, nor have any idea if I could ever 
track something like this down from an automotive supplier. 
If anyone has experience with this, or tips on finding a replacement, I'd 
appreciate your thoughts. Need to get this sorted before launch! Blasted 
Auxiliary... Thanks
Tracy rossoo...@yahoo.ca
 
  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

LOL,  I will happily ride on by your spread on my way into town!


I have to say, I'm very impressed so far.  Although there is still a 
cost to me, the value is going up.  They decided to strip the transom as 
well at no additional cost and will be re-painting the whole boat rather 
than just the one side.



So they stripped the gelcoat, glassed with a heavy layer of mat and 
vinilester resin,
The new laminate has been sanded and coated with hull guard which is a 
epoxy barrier coat.
The guys are troweling it with Awlgrip awlfair epoxy fairing putty. They 
will let it sit a few days and then sand, most likely it will need a 
second coat.



I think I'm going to have the paintjob I should have had at a cost that 
it probably should have initially cost.  I'm not really getting anything 
for my aggravation.  However, it is a much more professional experience.



I'll probably go over everything again with Brewers at the finish and 
try squeeze another season of storage or something out of them.  I doubt 
I'll return to Triad as I'm really disappointed in Peter Costa's role in 
all of this.  But, we'll see I guess...



Danny


On 4/2/2018 10:55 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:


Danny,


Call me after the salon and before you jump on the mustang.   I'll 
join you for poker and whiskey...



How is paint-job-parte-deux going?






*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Monday, April 2, 2018 10:41 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Danny Haughey
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

Ok, I think I'm going to go with the Bronze Silicon screws given the 
the very moist environment.  I am actively trying to chase down all 
the sources of water in the bilge but, until then...  As I understand 
it, SS doesn't really like like an environment that could be wet with 
little oxygen and suffers crevice corrosion.


I have another question in reference to this same project.  I'll be 
adding a solid 1/2 x 1 piece of teak to the edge of the T plywood to 
frame out the bilge opening.  My plan is to epoxy it there and finish 
nail it in place.  I can't seem to find any bronze finish nails. Would 
anyone have any advice as to the type of nail and material.  Currently 
I'm thinking my only option is a stainless finish nail.  My question 
is more of what size, should I pre-drill to avoid splitting the solid 
teak edging?  Actually any insight or advice at all will be appreciated.


After this project I plan on going to the Salon to get my hair done 
and then I reckon I'll jump on my mustang, called Ol Paint to mosey on 
over to the Saloon for a whiskey and few hands of poker...


Danny


On 3/28/2018 11:01 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think you'd be better off with Robertson, instead of the #2 
Phillips drive.


Ken H.

On 28 March 2018 at 09:19, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:


HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my
salon back together with them.

Thanks,

Danny


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[David via CnC-List]

Danny,


Call me after the salon and before you jump on the mustang.   I'll join you for 
poker and whiskey...


How is paint-job-parte-deux going?





From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 2, 2018 10:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE


Ok, I think I'm going to go with the Bronze Silicon screws given the the very 
moist environment.  I am actively trying to chase down all the sources of water 
in the bilge but, until then...  As I understand it, SS doesn't really like 
like an environment that could be wet with little oxygen and suffers crevice 
corrosion.

I have another question in reference to this same project.  I'll be adding a 
solid 1/2 x 1 piece of teak to the edge of the T plywood to frame out the 
bilge opening.  My plan is to epoxy it there and finish nail it in place.  I 
can't seem to find any bronze finish nails.  Would anyone have any advice as to 
the type of nail and material.  Currently I'm thinking my only option is a 
stainless finish nail.  My question is more of what size, should I pre-drill to 
avoid splitting the solid teak edging?  Actually any insight or advice at all 
will be appreciated.

After this project I plan on going to the Salon to get my hair done and then I 
reckon I'll jump on my mustang, called Ol Paint to mosey on over to the Saloon 
for a whiskey and few hands of poker...

Danny

On 3/28/2018 11:01 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think you'd be better off with Robertson, instead of the #2 Phillips drive.

Ken H.

On 28 March 2018 at 09:19, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:
HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my salon back 
together with them.

Thanks,

Danny


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, I think I'm going to go with the Bronze Silicon screws given the the 
very moist environment.  I am actively trying to chase down all the 
sources of water in the bilge but, until then...  As I understand it, SS 
doesn't really like like an environment that could be wet with little 
oxygen and suffers crevice corrosion.


I have another question in reference to this same project.  I'll be 
adding a solid 1/2 x 1 piece of teak to the edge of the T plywood to 
frame out the bilge opening.  My plan is to epoxy it there and finish 
nail it in place.  I can't seem to find any bronze finish nails.  Would 
anyone have any advice as to the type of nail and material.  Currently 
I'm thinking my only option is a stainless finish nail.  My question is 
more of what size, should I pre-drill to avoid splitting the solid teak 
edging?  Actually any insight or advice at all will be appreciated.


After this project I plan on going to the Salon to get my hair done and 
then I reckon I'll jump on my mustang, called Ol Paint to mosey on over 
to the Saloon for a whiskey and few hands of poker...


Danny


On 3/28/2018 11:01 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think you'd be better off with Robertson, instead of the #2 Phillips 
drive.


Ken H.

On 28 March 2018 at 09:19, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:


HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my
salon back together with them.

Thanks,

Danny


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List B instruments

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have bought and sold these, I think for around a hundred bucks per.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2018 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List B instruments

 

I sold a working set of these in  for $150

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List B instruments

 

Hello

 

Someone at our club has 3 working early to mid 2000's era B instruments
(wind, speed, depth) he says work well and I should tell him what I am
willing to pay.

 

What does the list think?

 

My Horizon set except wind works, so I would rather get that one fixed, but
in the meantime, am humouring this offer.

 

Let me know.

 

Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List B instruments

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

They actually have some value according to my electronics guy. 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Apr 2, 2018, at 08:19, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I sold a working set of these in  for $150
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
> Giannelia via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 12:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alex Giannelia
> Subject: Stus-List B instruments
>  
> Hello
>  
> Someone at our club has 3 working early to mid 2000’s era B instruments 
> (wind, speed, depth) he says work well and I should tell him what I am 
> willing to pay.
>  
> What does the list think?
>  
> My Horizon set except wind works, so I would rather get that one fixed, but 
> in the meantime, am humouring this offer.
>  
> Let me know.
>  
> Alex Giannelia
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
> a...@airsensing.com
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List B instruments

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I sold a working set of these in  for $150

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List B instruments

Hello

Someone at our club has 3 working early to mid 2000's era B instruments 
(wind, speed, depth) he says work well and I should tell him what I am willing 
to pay.

What does the list think?

My Horizon set except wind works, so I would rather get that one fixed, but in 
the meantime, am humouring this offer.

Let me know.

Alex Giannelia
C 35-II (1974) no 282
a...@airsensing.com

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray