Re: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

[nateflesness via CnC-List]

My 1980 30-1 has a 7/8 shaft. Don't know prop detajls.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: T power via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/7/18  5:38 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: T power  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it. 


My 1973 cc30 mk1 has a 7/8" shaft. My engine is a gas atomic 4 . prop is r/h 
rotation 11.5 x 8 x 7/8" 2 blade folding prop. Gori props can size you up 
pretty quick. Good luck






Get Outlook for Android 










From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Cox via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 6:59:57 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Jeremy Cox

Subject: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing 
it.
 


Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.



Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as the 
pitch and shaft size?



or where I could find that info?



thanks


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I also installed a smartplug on my 37/40+. The screws matched, but I had to use 
my dremel to grind out some extra space where it passed through the fiberglass.
Absolutely well worth it.   A much better connection at the boat.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/7/18  2:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay , Jack Fitzgerald 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power 
inlet 
All,
I also converted to the SmartPlug and kicking myself for not doing it sooner. 
Easy, solid connection. 
Warning: if you have a 37+ or XL (probably 34+ or XL as well), the SmartPlug 
will not mount in the same location as your existing shore power inlet. You’ll 
have to drill new holes. Still totally worth it. 

All the best,
Edd
Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No. 
NCC-1701-BCity Island, New York——-914.774.9767 - 
iPhone——-Sent from my iPadiPad. iTypos. iApologize
On Aug 7, 2018, at 11:41 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 wrote:

All.
I installed a smart plug on Honey and adapted all of my spare power cords and 
adapters to the smart plug configuration. This was money well spent, no more 
burnt shore plugs. I only wish that I had made this conversion a couple of 
years ago.
I purchased mine from Defender since they had the best price at the time.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald HONEY - C&C 39 TM (#69/1974)
US12788Savannah, GA
This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 11:11 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Alan.
Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???
Thanks 
Ron C.


Sent from XFINITY Connect Application


-Original Message-

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
Sent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without any 
threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the cover 
snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with cord, or 
you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.  That's what I did 
when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.
I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30 amps.  
I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next. 



Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR



On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:
I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.

The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless

mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about $40

as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new attachment

for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60

degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to

thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.



I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.



I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on the

docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to

plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of

them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley

Lumgair via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Bradley Lumgair 

Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet



I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,

ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks

like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet

apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and

the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco

fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.

Thanks

Brad

Pulse C&C 33 MKII

Lake Huron



Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~

___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and

every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use

PayPal to send contribution --   
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQ

Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Please live stream this event!  😉

Typoed from my iPhone

Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
Skype - thombusc



> On Aug 7, 2018, at 5:48 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:47:33 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc: Les Griffith , Carmeletta Muckley
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis
> Me


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Good thinking John.  I’ll assess that gap a bit more carefully next time I am 
out.  Thanks, Nathan


> On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Nathan
>  
> On our 34, there is a reason why the head is a foot or so below the top; of 
> the mast.  It is to provide room for the sail headboard to fit between the 
> aft edge of the mast and the backstay.  Keep that in mind as you are thinking 
> of altering things
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan 
> Post via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 11:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?
>  
> Thanks for all the great feedback on this.  On my boat as with some of the 
> others the goose neck is attached with a bunch of machine screws - not welded 
> so I expect it should be straight forward to move it up - simply drill and 
> tap new holes in the mast.  I could put some screws in the old holes to 
> "fill" them.   Thinking about height of the boom for flaking/covering the 
> sail and attaching the halyard to the head are important considerations - 
> I'll make a few measurements/trials and see how much higher makes sense to go 
> based on that.  Other boats I have sailed on have had the top batten catch on 
> the back stay and while annoying there are ways to shake it loose as 
> suggested so not that big a deal to me (not planning on any short course 
> racing with lots of tacks).  Raising the clew helps with cockpit clearance, 
> but not with vang angle so that is a consideration and if just raising the 
> clue that would also mean installing new reef points in the sail if we wanted 
> to keep the same angle when reefed so raising the gooseneck seems to be the 
> way to go in my case.
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
>  
> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:42 AM Randy Stafford  
> wrote:
> Hi Nathan,
> 
> A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing 
> former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as a 
> safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came from 
> the factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on the early 
> HINs.
> 
> Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I 
> have no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just 
> clears my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I 
> added a vang and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been 
> possible with a lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem 
> reaching the headboard to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail 
> cover.
> 
> My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if 
> the previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail 
> resulting in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the 
> foot as long as possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on 
> the original 30-1 roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with 
> the top batten catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions I 
> have the backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let the 
> batten pass.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> > On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > All,
> > 
> > Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> > dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 
> > to 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> > 
> > We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> > mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> > doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> > raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so 
> > there is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current 
> > height the boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps 
> > her head if she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice 
> > for comfort and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> > 
> > I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> > conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> > balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> > effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> > don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced 
> > the boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> > 
> > Thoughts?
> > Thanks,
> > Nathan 
> > 
> > S/V Wisper
> > 1981 C&C 34
> > Lynn, MA
> > _

Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Thanks to Dennis for stepping up to suggest an itinerary.

The results of my early surveys was that many people wanted to meet with
other owners and see their boats.  My experience at the 2017 NE Rendezvous
was similar.  People really enjoyed just being in the company of other
ownersand drinking.

My wife, Carmeletta, has suggested a ladies shopping trip and has also
investigated a tour of the Naval Academy.  If there are at least 20 people
interested, the academy has private tours.  Less than 20 they still offer
tours just not private.

I considered an on board meal prep demo from various owners.  Brian Fry and
I both have Pro Select Pressure cookers which can be used for a multitude
of different cooking techniques.  I'm happy to demo or allow others to demo
on board my boat.  It might be cool to have a spread of food available on
Friday night.

For a price we could arrange catering, or make reservations at any of the
local eateries.

There is a cool music venue and bar and restaurant called The Rams Head
which may have a show if anybody is interested.

Dennis, if you have a line on a splicing demo from APS I would enjoy that.

Rick Brass had suggested a fun run sail race and had even had a prize in
mind for the winner.

There are a multitude of modifications on board my boat that I have shared
with the list throughout the years.  I'm happy to demonstrate any of them
in person.

Carm and I will have a car available and Uber and Lift are available too.
A trip to Faucets and APS are fun stops.

I don't know Annapolis too well so if there is a museum or other "thing to
see" then anybody is welcome to please chime in.

Long story short, if nobody tells us what you want to do we will all just
sit around and talk... And drink... Which is perfectly fine... I like
drinking.


All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 12:07 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> First, thanks to Josh for moving this rendezvous forward and to Ken for
> the webpage.
>
> The event is scheduled for Fri-Sun, October 26-28. Currently, we, the
> attendees, have no activities planned.  What do we want to do?
>
> In the past, our gatherings have had informal social events on Friday with
> more structured activities on Saturday.
>
> As a start, I propose the following:
>
> Friday 10/26 - 5-6:30 Cocktails on the pier.  Mingle
> Saturday 10/27  1-5 pm Tour attending boats.  5:30-7ish?  Group dinner?
> Where?  Suggestions?
> Sunday 10/28  Ad lib.
>
> Totally amenable to any revisions to the above.  Just trying to start
> putting some structure to the event.
>
> Maybe have Annapolis Performance Sailing do a lecture?  What does the
> group want?
>
> I know nothing about Annapolis.  Suggestions from locals on a venue for a
> group dinner?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ken Heaton was kind enough to host a web page for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic
>> C&C Rendezvous.  I am the primary organizer but it is NOT my rendezvous it
>> is ours.  As such I really only focused on the dates, venue, and
>> promotion.  This is a great opportunity to rerequest volunteers to organize
>> other aspects and activities.
>>
>> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1
>>
>> There is a place in the comments section to declare that you plan to
>> attend.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S /V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Nathan

 

On our 34, there is a reason why the head is a foot or so below the top; of the 
mast.  It is to provide room for the sail headboard to fit between the aft edge 
of the mast and the backstay.  Keep that in mind as you are thinking of 
altering things

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Post 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

 

Thanks for all the great feedback on this.  On my boat as with some of the 
others the goose neck is attached with a bunch of machine screws - not welded 
so I expect it should be straight forward to move it up - simply drill and tap 
new holes in the mast.  I could put some screws in the old holes to "fill" 
them.   Thinking about height of the boom for flaking/covering the sail and 
attaching the halyard to the head are important considerations - I'll make a 
few measurements/trials and see how much higher makes sense to go based on 
that.  Other boats I have sailed on have had the top batten catch on the back 
stay and while annoying there are ways to shake it loose as suggested so not 
that big a deal to me (not planning on any short course racing with lots of 
tacks).  Raising the clew helps with cockpit clearance, but not with vang angle 
so that is a consideration and if just raising the clue that would also mean 
installing new reef points in the sail if we wanted to keep the same angle when 
reefed so raising the gooseneck seems to be the way to go in my case. 

 

Thanks!

 

Nathan

S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34
Lynn, MA 

 

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:42 AM Randy Stafford  
wrote:

Hi Nathan,

A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing 
former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as a 
safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came from the 
factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on the early HINs.

Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I have 
no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just clears 
my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I added a vang 
and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been possible with a 
lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem reaching the headboard 
to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail cover.

My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if the 
previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail resulting 
in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the foot as long as 
possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on the original 30-1 
roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with the top batten 
catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions I have the 
backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let the batten pass.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 
> 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> 
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there 
> is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the 
> boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if 
> she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice for comfort 
> and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> 
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced the 
> boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> 
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan 
> 
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brien,

 

I have a bimini on my 35-3.  I will send you a pic off-list.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 08:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

 

In an attempt to not recreate the wheel, I'm looking for information, pictures, 
or a source lead on a bimini frame for an '87 35-3. Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

 

Brien Sadler

S/V TAZ 

1987 C&C 35-3

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

+1.

Replaced a two-blade fixed on my 30-1, A4, 7/8” shaft, with a two-blade Gori 
folding prop, before the 2017 season.  I’ve been running the Gori for two 
seasons now with absolutely no problems.  I think it gained me a half-knot easy.

Here are the specs on my shaft and prop from Geoff Prior of AB Marine (US 
distributor for Gori):
* RH rotation, 7/8” dia SAE shaft taper which has a ¼” nominal key & a 5/8” x 
11 UNC thread.
* So for your C&C 30 with the Atomic 4, rated at 30hp, 3000rpm,  (20hp @ 
2000rpm) with the 1:1 gear ratio, RH rotation, 7/8” dia. shaft it’s the 11.5" x 
8 x 2-blade RH.

I bought the Gori on sale for $845, which was $50 more than a Martec and $185 
less than a Flex-o-Fold.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 4:38 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My 1973 cc30 mk1 has a 7/8" shaft. My engine is a gas atomic 4 . prop is r/h 
> rotation 11.5 x 8 x 7/8" 2 blade folding prop. Gori props can size you up 
> pretty quick. Good luck
> 
> Get Outlook for Android  
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Cox via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 6:59:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jeremy Cox
> Subject: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help 
> replacing it.
>  
> Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as the 
> pitch and shaft size?
> 
> or where I could find that info?
> 
> thanks
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

[T power via CnC-List]

My 1973 cc30 mk1 has a 7/8" shaft. My engine is a gas atomic 4 . prop is r/h 
rotation 11.5 x 8 x 7/8" 2 blade folding prop. Gori props can size you up 
pretty quick. Good luck

Get Outlook for Android




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Cox via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 6:59:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Cox
Subject: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing 
it.

Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.

Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as the 
pitch and shaft size?

or where I could find that info?

thanks
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

[Jeremy Cox via CnC-List]

Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.

Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as
the pitch and shaft size?

or where I could find that info?

thanks
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How narrow a berth is too narrow

[David via CnC-List]

Actually given all this discussion about tough docking.  Makes it easier...just 
put your fenders out and push in.


Kind of like we do with inflatables at a dinghy dock.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 3:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How narrow a berth is too narrow

And hope there's no crosswind or current!
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 2:25:52 PM CDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:


You would need fenders on both sides in that tight to another boat.
Joe

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of John Irvin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin mailto:skis...@outlook.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

A foot either side is the norm in our harbour.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From 
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
> counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
> can make it work?
>
> Thanks,
>  Jeremy
>  78 34-1 #41
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 And hope there's no crosswind or current!RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 2:25:52 PM CDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 You would need fenders on both sides in that tight to another boat.
Joe

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

A foot either side is the norm in our harbour.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From 
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
> counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
> can make it work?
> 
> Thanks,
>  Jeremy 
>  78 34-1 #41
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You would need fenders on both sides in that tight to another boat.
Joe

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

A foot either side is the norm in our harbour.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From 
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
> counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
> can make it work?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy 
>   78 34-1 #41
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

A foot either side is the norm in our harbour.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From 
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
> counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
> can make it work?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy 
>   78 34-1 #41
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Sounds tight.  My 30-1 (10’ beam) shares a 20’-wide double slip with a Merit 25 
(8’ beam).  That two feet to spare is mostly consumed by three widths of 
fenders etc., leaving only 6” between our boats.  We’ve made it work without 
incident, but we don’t have any tide or current to deal with on our lake.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From 
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
> counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
> can make it work?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy 
>   78 34-1 #41
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

For a FLOATING dock, 3 inches wider than the boat will work.
Joe
Coquina

From: Jeremy Ralph [mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 2:13 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

Thanks for the info Joe. The tide here fluctuates 15' but it's a floating dock 
so I'm sure that would have an impact.

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 11:08 AM, Della Barba, Joe 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:
I am in a very narrow slip. My beam is 10.5 feet and I think the slip is 12. It 
is kind of PITA to get the lines and fenders all set, but I save about $1000 
for doing so.
Joe
Coquina

Forgot – what is the tide? If you have a lot of tidal range you won’t be able 
to do this

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 2:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From the 
edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
can make it work?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
  78 34-1 #41

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info Joe. The tide here fluctuates 15' but it's a floating
dock so I'm sure that would have an impact.

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 11:08 AM, Della Barba, Joe 
wrote:

> I am in a very narrow slip. My beam is 10.5 feet and I think the slip is
> 12. It is kind of PITA to get the lines and fenders all set, but I save
> about $1000 for doing so.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> Forgot – what is the tide? If you have a lot of tidal range you won’t be
> able to do this
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeremy
> Ralph via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 07, 2018 2:04 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow
>
>
>
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11'
> not counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you
> think I can make it work?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>   Jeremy
>
>   78 34-1 #41
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

All,

I also converted to the SmartPlug and kicking myself for not doing it sooner. 
Easy, solid connection. 

Warning: if you have a 37+ or XL (probably 34+ or XL as well), the SmartPlug 
will not mount in the same location as your existing shore power inlet. You’ll 
have to drill new holes. Still totally worth it. 

All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No. NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
——-
914.774.9767 - iPhone
——-
Sent from my iPad
iPad. iTypos. iApologize

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 11:41 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All.
> 
> I installed a smart plug on Honey and adapted all of my spare power cords and 
> adapters to the smart plug configuration. This was money well spent, no more 
> burnt shore plugs. I only wish that I had made this conversion a couple of 
> years ago.
> 
> I purchased mine from Defender since they had the best price at the time.
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Jack Fitzgerald 
> HONEY - C&C 39 TM (#69/1974)
> US12788
> Savannah, GA
> 
> This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
> Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
> privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
> that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
> communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
> have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 11:11 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Alan.
>> Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???
>> Thanks 
>> Ron C.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> 
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
>> Sent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>> 
>> A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without 
>> any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the 
>> cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with 
>> cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.  
>> That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.
>> 
>> I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30 
>> amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> 
>>> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
>>> The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
>>> mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about $40
>>> as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new attachment
>>> for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
>>> degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
>>> thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.
>>> 
>>> I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.
>>> 
>>> I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on the
>>> docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
>>> plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
>>> them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.
>>> 
>>> Rick Brass
>>> Washington, NC
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
>>> Lumgair via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>>> 
>>> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
>>> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
>>> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
>>> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and
>>> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
>>> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
>>> Thanks
>>> Brad
>>> Pulse C&C 33 MKII
>>> Lake Huron
>>> 
>>> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>>> 
>>>

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am in a very narrow slip. My beam is 10.5 feet and I think the slip is 12. It 
is kind of PITA to get the lines and fenders all set, but I save about $1000 
for doing so.
Joe
Coquina

Forgot – what is the tide? If you have a lot of tidal range you won’t be able 
to do this

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 2:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From the 
edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
can make it work?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
  78 34-1 #41
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I suggest the Boatyard Restaurant for dinner!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 1:10 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Right next to the dock:
> Pussers
> Federal House
> McGarveys
>  
> These are all 20 seconds walk.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 12:07 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis
>  
> First, thanks to Josh for moving this rendezvous forward and to Ken for the 
> webpage.
>  
> The event is scheduled for Fri-Sun, October 26-28. Currently, we, the 
> attendees, have no activities planned.  What do we want to do?
>  
> In the past, our gatherings have had informal social events on Friday with 
> more structured activities on Saturday.
>  
> As a start, I propose the following:
>  
> Friday 10/26 - 5-6:30 Cocktails on the pier.  Mingle
> Saturday 10/27  1-5 pm Tour attending boats.  5:30-7ish?  Group dinner?  
> Where?  Suggestions?
> Sunday 10/28  Ad lib.
>  
> Totally amenable to any revisions to the above.  Just trying to start putting 
> some structure to the event.
>  
> Maybe have Annapolis Performance Sailing do a lecture?  What does the group 
> want?
>  
> I know nothing about Annapolis.  Suggestions from locals on a venue for a 
> group dinner?
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Ken Heaton was kind enough to host a web page for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C 
> Rendezvous.  I am the primary organizer but it is NOT my rendezvous it is 
> ours.  As such I really only focused on the dates, venue, and promotion.  
> This is a great opportunity to rerequest volunteers to organize other aspects 
> and activities.  
>  
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1
>  
> There is a place in the comments section to declare that you plan to attend.
>  
>  
> Thanks, 
>  
> Josh Muckley 
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Dang.
We have had several good meals at Federal House lately, but I haven’t been to 
McGarvey’s in some time. The Dock Street Café has superb crab cakes and 
burgers, but space inside is limited.
The Boatyard definitely has the sailing atmosphere nailed. Water taxi will take 
you there if you are averse to walking.

Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: fall rendezvous Annapolis

I would walk a little further to O'Briens or across the bridge to The Boatyard 
in Eastport.  McGarveys and OBriens have new owners.  Not good for McGarveys.

Joel

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 1:11 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Right next to the dock:
Pussers
Federal House
McGarveys

These are all 20 seconds walk.

Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 12:07 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis

First, thanks to Josh for moving this rendezvous forward and to Ken for the 
webpage.

The event is scheduled for Fri-Sun, October 26-28. Currently, we, the 
attendees, have no activities planned.  What do we want to do?

In the past, our gatherings have had informal social events on Friday with more 
structured activities on Saturday.

As a start, I propose the following:

Friday 10/26 - 5-6:30 Cocktails on the pier.  Mingle
Saturday 10/27  1-5 pm Tour attending boats.  5:30-7ish?  Group dinner?  Where? 
 Suggestions?
Sunday 10/28  Ad lib.

Totally amenable to any revisions to the above.  Just trying to start putting 
some structure to the event.

Maybe have Annapolis Performance Sailing do a lecture?  What does the group 
want?

I know nothing about Annapolis.  Suggestions from locals on a venue for a group 
dinner?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ken Heaton was kind enough to host a web page for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C 
Rendezvous.  I am the primary organizer but it is NOT my rendezvous it is ours. 
 As such I really only focused on the dates, venue, and promotion.  This is a 
great opportunity to rerequest volunteers to organize other aspects and 
activities.

http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1

There is a place in the comments section to declare that you plan to attend.


Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From
the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11'
not counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you
think I can make it work?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
  78 34-1 #41
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I would walk a little further to O'Briens or across the bridge to The
Boatyard in Eastport.  McGarveys and OBriens have new owners.  Not good for
McGarveys.

Joel

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 1:11 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Right next to the dock:
>
> Pussers
>
> Federal House
>
> McGarveys
>
>
>
> These are all 20 seconds walk.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 07, 2018 12:07 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis
>
>
>
> First, thanks to Josh for moving this rendezvous forward and to Ken for
> the webpage.
>
>
>
> The event is scheduled for Fri-Sun, October 26-28. Currently, we, the
> attendees, have no activities planned.  What do we want to do?
>
>
>
> In the past, our gatherings have had informal social events on Friday with
> more structured activities on Saturday.
>
>
>
> As a start, I propose the following:
>
>
>
> Friday 10/26 - 5-6:30 Cocktails on the pier.  Mingle
>
> Saturday 10/27  1-5 pm Tour attending boats.  5:30-7ish?  Group dinner?
> Where?  Suggestions?
>
> Sunday 10/28  Ad lib.
>
>
>
> Totally amenable to any revisions to the above.  Just trying to start
> putting some structure to the event.
>
>
>
> Maybe have Annapolis Performance Sailing do a lecture?  What does the
> group want?
>
>
>
> I know nothing about Annapolis.  Suggestions from locals on a venue for a
> group dinner?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ken Heaton was kind enough to host a web page for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic
> C&C Rendezvous.  I am the primary organizer but it is NOT my rendezvous it
> is ours.  As such I really only focused on the dates, venue, and
> promotion.  This is a great opportunity to rerequest volunteers to organize
> other aspects and activities.
>
>
>
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1
>
>
>
> There is a place in the comments section to declare that you plan to
> attend.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S /V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Right next to the dock:
Pussers
Federal House
McGarveys

These are all 20 seconds walk.

Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 12:07 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis

First, thanks to Josh for moving this rendezvous forward and to Ken for the 
webpage.

The event is scheduled for Fri-Sun, October 26-28. Currently, we, the 
attendees, have no activities planned.  What do we want to do?

In the past, our gatherings have had informal social events on Friday with more 
structured activities on Saturday.

As a start, I propose the following:

Friday 10/26 - 5-6:30 Cocktails on the pier.  Mingle
Saturday 10/27  1-5 pm Tour attending boats.  5:30-7ish?  Group dinner?  Where? 
 Suggestions?
Sunday 10/28  Ad lib.

Totally amenable to any revisions to the above.  Just trying to start putting 
some structure to the event.

Maybe have Annapolis Performance Sailing do a lecture?  What does the group 
want?

I know nothing about Annapolis.  Suggestions from locals on a venue for a group 
dinner?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ken Heaton was kind enough to host a web page for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C 
Rendezvous.  I am the primary organizer but it is NOT my rendezvous it is ours. 
 As such I really only focused on the dates, venue, and promotion.  This is a 
great opportunity to rerequest volunteers to organize other aspects and 
activities.

http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1

There is a place in the comments section to declare that you plan to attend.


Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, thanks to Josh for moving this rendezvous forward and to Ken for the
webpage.

The event is scheduled for Fri-Sun, October 26-28. Currently, we, the
attendees, have no activities planned.  What do we want to do?

In the past, our gatherings have had informal social events on Friday with
more structured activities on Saturday.

As a start, I propose the following:

Friday 10/26 - 5-6:30 Cocktails on the pier.  Mingle
Saturday 10/27  1-5 pm Tour attending boats.  5:30-7ish?  Group dinner?
Where?  Suggestions?
Sunday 10/28  Ad lib.

Totally amenable to any revisions to the above.  Just trying to start
putting some structure to the event.

Maybe have Annapolis Performance Sailing do a lecture?  What does the group
want?

I know nothing about Annapolis.  Suggestions from locals on a venue for a
group dinner?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ken Heaton was kind enough to host a web page for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic
> C&C Rendezvous.  I am the primary organizer but it is NOT my rendezvous it
> is ours.  As such I really only focused on the dates, venue, and
> promotion.  This is a great opportunity to rerequest volunteers to organize
> other aspects and activities.
>
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1
>
> There is a place in the comments section to declare that you plan to
> attend.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Plastic zipper lube

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The IFAI Marine Fabricator had an article once where the fabricators were 
giving out their best secrets, and Chap Stick was at the top of the list.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 11:52 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Plastic zipper lube

 

Doing a bit of research on plastic zipper lubes for canvas I found several 
opinions.  Products mentioned positively were:

 

petroleum jelly

Sailkote McLube

McNett Zip-Tech

GairAid Zipper Lube (formerly McNett Zip-Tech)

Star Brite Zipper Lube

Several others.

 

Most seemed to work OK.  One criticism of zipper lubes was residue that would 
collect dirt and grime.  

 

The one that seemed to have the best reviews from sailors and canvas makers was 
the McNett/GearAid.  I ordered some.  I can also use it on the rubberized 
zippers of my snow ski jacket.  :)

 

Any comments on zipper lubes from the listers?

 

Dennis C.

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think my AC Dometic might be considered submersible as well, altho it doesn’t 
look like what I consider a submersible pump, like a little giant.

They say they can be run either way., probably yours as well.

Most important, these are not self-priming, so they have to be installed below 
the waterline, and preferably have a downhill run to them.  One way to prime is 
to pull off the outlet – you will get water in a hurry!  Pop it right back on, 
and if the pump is good, it will be running fine. But Better to just have the 
outlet going up, like I said.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

 

Thanks Bill, 

sure looks like its been on there for a while  but i will speak withbthem and 
probably order the non submerisible  model. Any  thoughts on priming  while I 
have you :)

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon 

www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Aug 6, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

Some submersible pumps need to be under water to cool them properly. You need 
to get a fact sheet on the pump.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 10:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

 

Mine looks exactly like the March  893- 04 but that is the submersible model?  
is says must be submerged ? ? the 893-03  would work but its not black casing  
like the one 1 have.   it sits under sink high and dry and looks like it drains 
to  sink drain ? Don’t know much about the refridgeration  think 1st time I 
turned it since got the boat first day was  OK then light sounds on and off   
them  second day screeeaach ! !  Hate to think it could it have just needed 
priming ?  Guess I need to know about this priming stuff  before I blow $180 
Bucks ! 😊 

Thanks all  ~~!!

 


  _  


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 8:03:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump 

 

I just replaced a refrigeration pump that looked just like that Lc-3CP, but it 
was a Dometic. I think they are all the same.

I think I replaced it needlessly, as a couple days after I did, the new one was 
screaming and shutting the compressor down. Again. Then, I remembered that I 
had to bleed the damn thing before, but I forgot.

I plan on fixing that bleeder problem by having the pump output go straight up 
for a bit, to let air out. Now the hose goes down, which traps air in the pump.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 3:34 PM
To: Dreuge; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

 

Perfect ! I will give them a  call no need to go submersible or is that 
recommended for marine use even though pump is high and dry ? 

Thanks again ! 

 


  _  


From: Dreuge 
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 3:00:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jconk...@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump 

 

John, 

 

Flagship Marine is a reasonable source for March Pumps.   I did not see a 
direct replacement for model 893-001-04, but a quick google search suggest that 
the replacement model is 893-04.   See the link below.

 

 

https://www.flagshipmarine.com/marinepumps.html 

 

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 

 

 

On Aug 6, 2018, at 2:14 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 18:13:41 +
From: John Conklin <  jconk...@hotmail.com>
To: "  cnc-list@cnc-list.com" < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C&C 37+
Message-ID:
< 

 bn6pr13mb12337a195197a772b5f885a49b...@bn6pr13mb1233.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

mine is down  too!  wate

Stus-List Plastic zipper lube

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Doing a bit of research on plastic zipper lubes for canvas I found several
opinions.  Products mentioned positively were:

petroleum jelly
Sailkote McLube
McNett Zip-Tech
GairAid Zipper Lube (formerly McNett Zip-Tech)
Star Brite Zipper Lube
Several others.

Most seemed to work OK.  One criticism of zipper lubes was residue that
would collect dirt and grime.

The one that seemed to have the best reviews from sailors and canvas makers
was the McNett/GearAid.  I ordered some.  I can also use it on the
rubberized zippers of my snow ski jacket.  :)

Any comments on zipper lubes from the listers?

Dennis C.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

All.

I installed a smart plug on Honey and adapted all of my spare power cords
and adapters to the smart plug configuration. This was money well spent, no
more burnt shore plugs. I only wish that I had made this conversion a
couple of years ago.

I purchased mine from Defender since they had the best price at the time.


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - C&C 39 TM (#69/1974)
US12788
Savannah, GA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 11:11 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Alan.
> Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???
> Thanks
> Ron C.
>
>
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
> Sent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>
> A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in
> without any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged
> in, the cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly
> complete with cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings
> yourself.  That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco
> inlet.
>
> I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30
> amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
>> The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
>> mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about
>> $40
>> as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new
>> attachment
>> for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
>> degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having
>> to
>> thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.
>>
>> I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.
>>
>> I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on
>> the
>> docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail
>> to
>> plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
>> them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.
>>
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>> Bradley
>> Lumgair via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
>> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>>
>> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
>> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
>> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
>> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic)
>> and
>> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
>> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this
>> year.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Pulse C&C 33 MKII
>> Lake Huron
>>
>> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to supp

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here are two links.  One for eBay and one for Defender Industries.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SmartPlug-B50ASSY-50-Amp-Inlet-Connector-Combo-Kit-Shorepower-Products-and/232811872531?epid=1118878419&hash=item3634ab4113%3Ag%3AJL4AAOSwQV5bKSIg&_sacat=0&_nkw=Smart+cordset&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.XSmart+cordset.TRS0

https://search.defender.com/?Action=2&AnswerId=82189&SH=QT1TbWFydCBQbHVnfkI9U21hcnQgUGx1Z35EPTI1fkk9UHJpY2V_Sz00fkw9MX5NPTF_&SI=5d06443e-4a18-475a-abdf-a037c1340d40&ss=1

Alan


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 8:11 AM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Alan.
> Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???
> Thanks
> Ron C.
>
>
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
> Sent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>
> A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in
> without any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged
> in, the cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly
> complete with cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings
> yourself.  That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco
> inlet.
>
> I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30
> amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
>> The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
>> mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about
>> $40
>> as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new
>> attachment
>> for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
>> degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having
>> to
>> thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.
>>
>> I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.
>>
>> I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on
>> the
>> docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail
>> to
>> plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
>> them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.
>>
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>> Bradley
>> Lumgair via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
>> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>>
>> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
>> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
>> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
>> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic)
>> and
>> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
>> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this
>> year.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Pulse C&C 33 MKII
>> Lake Huron
>>
>> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=
>> DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g4
>> 8D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=
>> DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g4
>> 8D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> P2o0heQmWwK42r7a

Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill,
sure looks like its been on there for a while  but i will speak withbthem and 
probably order the non submerisible  model. Any  thoughts on priming  while I 
have you :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net

On Aug 6, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Some submersible pumps need to be under water to cool them properly. You need 
to get a fact sheet on the pump.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 10:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

Mine looks exactly like the March  893- 04 but that is the submersible model?  
is says must be submerged ? ? the 893-03  would work but its not black casing  
like the one 1 have.   it sits under sink high and dry and looks like it drains 
to  sink drain ? Don’t know much about the refridgeration  think 1st time I 
turned it since got the boat first day was  OK then light sounds on and off   
them  second day screeeaach ! !  Hate to think it could it have just needed 
priming ?  Guess I need to know about this priming stuff  before I blow $180 
Bucks ! 😊
Thanks all  ~~!!


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 8:03:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

I just replaced a refrigeration pump that looked just like that Lc-3CP, but it 
was a Dometic. I think they are all the same.
I think I replaced it needlessly, as a couple days after I did, the new one was 
screaming and shutting the compressor down. Again. Then, I remembered that I 
had to bleed the damn thing before, but I forgot.
I plan on fixing that bleeder problem by having the pump output go straight up 
for a bit, to let air out. Now the hose goes down, which traps air in the pump.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 3:34 PM
To: Dreuge; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

Perfect ! I will give them a  call no need to go submersible or is that 
recommended for marine use even though pump is high and dry ?
Thanks again !


From: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 3:00:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jconk...@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

John,

Flagship Marine is a reasonable source for March Pumps.   I did not see a 
direct replacement for model 893-001-04, but a quick google search suggest that 
the replacement model is 893-04.   See the link below.


https://www.flagshipmarine.com/marinepumps.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 6, 2018, at 2:14 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 18:13:41 +
From: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C&C 37+
Message-ID:
mailto:bn6pr13mb12337a195197a772b5f885a49b...@bn6pr13mb1233.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

mine is down  too!  water cooled and small pump was screamin
was a MARCH MANUFACTURING
model 893-001-04  12v,1amp about 6?tall
Are these guys still around ? or what can I use to replace ?
Need Cold Beer  yes! :)
thanks all

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

 Thanks for all the great feedback on this.  On my boat as with some of the
others the goose neck is attached with a bunch of machine screws - not
welded so I expect it should be straight forward to move it up - simply
drill and tap new holes in the mast.  I could put some screws in the old
holes to "fill" them.   Thinking about height of the boom for
flaking/covering the sail and attaching the halyard to the head are
important considerations - I'll make a few measurements/trials and see how
much higher makes sense to go based on that.  Other boats I have sailed on
have had the top batten catch on the back stay and while annoying there are
ways to shake it loose as suggested so not that big a deal to me (not
planning on any short course racing with lots of tacks).  Raising the clew
helps with cockpit clearance, but not with vang angle so that is a
consideration and if just raising the clue that would also mean installing
new reef points in the sail if we wanted to keep the same angle when reefed
so raising the gooseneck seems to be the way to go in my case.

Thanks!

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34
Lynn, MA

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:42 AM Randy Stafford 
wrote:

> Hi Nathan,
>
> A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing
> former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as
> a safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came
> from the factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on
> the early HINs.
>
> Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I
> have no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just
> clears my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I
> added a vang and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been
> possible with a lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem
> reaching the headboard to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail
> cover.
>
> My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if
> the previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail
> resulting in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the
> foot as long as possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on
> the original 30-1 roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with
> the top batten catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions
> I have the backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let
> the batten pass.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> > On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having
> a dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8
> to 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> >
> > We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so
> there is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current
> height the boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps
> her head if she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice
> for comfort and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> >
> > I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced
> the boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> > Thanks,
> > Nathan
> >
> > S/V Wisper
> > 1981 C&C 34
> > Lynn, MA
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Alan.Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???Thanks Ron C.Sent from XFINITY Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: trya...@alumni.usc.eduSent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inletA better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.  That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30 amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next. Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR
On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about $40
as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new attachment
for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.

I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.

I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on the
docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and
the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I'm adding a vote for raising the boom end by altering the mainsail.

My gooseneck is welded. I expect I could find a new mast fitting that fit and 
screw it onto the mast above the OEM product. I'd leave the old fitting as it 
adds strength and wouldn't be in the way of anything.

In 2012, I had a sailmaker simply add a flattening reef cringle in the leech 
($75) on a racing sail. Last year I had a sailmaker raise the clew on J-109 
mainsail 18" because it was originally made for a tiller steered boat and 
allowed the boom to droop below 90 degrees. It actually touched the wheel and 
could jam it. He kept the tack and reshaped the foot of the sail, new foot line 
etc ($300 for a loose footed main). You may find a better deal.

> On August 7, 2018 at 10:16 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> Nathan;
>
> When I rerigged Imzadi back in 2011 or 2012, I talked to my sailmaker and the 
> rigger about doing what you are considering. Imzadi's boom was about 30" off 
> the deck, which put the vang at a marginally flat angle and limited the 
> access to the companionway. I, too, wanted to put on a taller dodger to aid 
> access below.
>
> They pointed out that the black stripe at the top of the mast (an indicator 
> of the max luff length for racing purposes) was a foot below the top of the 
> mast, so the gooseneck and black stripe could both be moved up and still be 
> legal. My gooseneck was installed on the mast with 8 or 10 machine screws, so 
> it was an easy task to move the gooseneck up about 8" and repaint the black 
> stripe.
>
> I find no difference in the sailing qualities of my boat. The rigid vang is 
> much closer to the optimum 45 degree angle. Clearance in the cockpit is 
> better. And there is enough room over the companionway that a hard dodger 
> with solar panels mounted on it has been added to the project list.
>
> The first downside is that the top batten in the main (a five batten main 
> with maximum roach) tends to get caught by the backstay when tacking in light 
> winds. But I have the same problem with my 25, and the gooseneck is in the 
> original location. A timely tug down on the boom is sometimes needed to clear 
> the batten. Since you indicate you have a second hand main that is 1 1/2 feet 
> shorter than the proper main for your boat, I don't imagine you have this 
> problem. It might become an issue when you get a new sail that is the proper 
> length.
>
> The second downside is the result of the Tides Strong Track on the mast and 
> the new main I bought last year. The new main has more "slugs" in the track 
> than the old one (though it is the number recommended by Tides for the luff 
> length of a main for a 38) and the stack height puts the top of the headboard 
> just about as high as I can reach when connecting the halyard or putting on 
> the mainsail cover. I sometimes wish I was a couple of inches taller.
>
> All in all, I'm pleased with the consequences of moving my gooseneck up.
>
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47
> la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan 
> Post via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 8:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post 
> Subject: Stus-List Raising the boom?
>
> All,
>
> Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering raising the boom about 8 to 
> 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea? Has anyone done this on their boat?
>
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there 
> is plenty of room up there without recutting it. At its current height the 
> boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if 
> she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice for comfort 
> and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
>
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> balance. It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> don’t think that will be so important. However, I love how well balanced the 
> boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
>
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> _

Stus-List Mast Rake for C&C 41

[Doug via CnC-List]

I'm looking for advice on what mast rake works best for a C&C 41

Doug Allardyce
C&C 41 BULLET
Detroit
~_/)~
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Nathan,

A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing 
former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as a 
safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came from the 
factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on the early HINs.

Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I have 
no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just clears 
my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I added a vang 
and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been possible with a 
lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem reaching the headboard 
to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail cover.

My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if the 
previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail resulting 
in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the foot as long as 
possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on the original 30-1 
roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with the top batten 
catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions I have the 
backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let the batten pass.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 
> 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> 
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there 
> is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the 
> boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if 
> she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice for comfort 
> and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> 
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced the 
> boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> 
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan 
> 
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Nathan;

When I rerigged Imzadi back in 2011 or 2012, I talked to my sailmaker and the 
rigger about doing what you are considering. Imzadi's boom was about 30" off 
the deck, which put the vang at a marginally flat angle and limited the access 
to the companionway. I, too, wanted to put on a taller dodger to aid access 
below.

They pointed out that the black stripe at the top of the mast (an indicator of 
the max luff length for racing purposes) was a foot below the top of the mast, 
so the gooseneck and black stripe could both be moved up and still be legal. My 
gooseneck was installed on the mast with 8 or 10 machine screws, so it was an 
easy task to move the gooseneck up about 8" and repaint the black stripe.

I find no difference in the sailing qualities of my boat. The rigid vang is 
much closer to the optimum 45 degree angle. Clearance in the cockpit is better. 
And there is enough room over the companionway that a hard dodger with solar 
panels mounted on it has been added to the project list.

The first downside is that the top batten in the main (a five batten main with 
maximum roach) tends to get caught by the backstay when tacking in light winds. 
But I have the same problem with my 25, and the gooseneck is in the original 
location. A timely tug down on the boom is sometimes needed to clear the 
batten. Since you indicate you have a second hand main that is 1 1/2 feet 
shorter than the proper main for your boat, I don't imagine you have this 
problem. It might become an issue when you get a new sail that is the proper 
length.

The second downside is the result of the Tides Strong Track on the mast and the 
new main I bought last year. The new main has more "slugs" in the track than 
the old one (though it is the number recommended by Tides for the luff length 
of a main for a 38) and the stack height puts the top of the headboard just 
about as high as I can reach when connecting the halyard or putting on the 
mainsail cover. I sometimes wish I was a couple of inches taller.

All in all, I'm pleased with the consequences of moving my gooseneck up.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Post 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 8:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Stus-List Raising the boom?

All,

Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 10 
inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?

We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten mainsail 
(which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it doesn’t 
correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully raised and 
the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there is plenty of 
room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the boom is about 
eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if she is not careful 
- getting it above head height would be nice for comfort and would also allow 
the dodger to be a bit higher.

I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy conditions, 
but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or balance.  It will 
also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the effectiveness of the 
cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I don’t think that will be so 
important.  However, I love how well balanced the boat is - she sails 
beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.

Thoughts?
Thanks,
Nathan 

S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34
Lynn, MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 151, Issue 36

[T Smyth via CnC-List]

Brad,

I recently purchased a replacement Marinco 100R Threaded Ring for 20 and 30 Amp 
Systems at Amazon and it works perfectly.
I noticed that Amazon has ample Marinco parts, so perhaps you could find your 
items there.

Just search Amazon for “Marinco.”
https://smile.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marinco

Good Luck,

Tom
Shangri-La, C&C 30
Clark Hill Lake, GA
(AKA Strom Thurmond Lake on the SC side...)


> On Aug 7, 2018, at 10:04 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
> Lumgair via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
> 
> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and
> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Pulse C&C 33 MKII
> Lake Huron


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without
any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the
cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with
cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.
That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.

I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30
amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next.



Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
> The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
> mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about
> $40
> as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new
> attachment
> for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
> degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
> thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.
>
> I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.
>
> I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on
> the
> docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
> plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
> them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
> Lumgair via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>
> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic)
> and
> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Pulse C&C 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> 3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_
> EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> 3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720&s=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_
> EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc&e=
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Marinco shore power inlet

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You can buy the internal parts for about $30 or so.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley 
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 10:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse, 
ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks like 
it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet apart, 2 of 
the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and the gaskets 
are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco fittings? 30a 110v 
stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about $40
as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new attachment
for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.

I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.

I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on the
docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and
the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I considered doing this because I am 6’ 3” and did not want to get hit in the 
head with the boom.  My sailmaker convinced me to raise the clew on the sail so 
the boom now has a slight angle but clears my head in the rear near the wheel.  
You might be able to get away with this option depending on where you want it 
higher.  It is certainly cheaper and easier than raising the gooseneck.  I did 
this when my new main was built, but it is easy to add a new cringle to the 
existing sail and try it out.   Dave

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:43 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Also consider the added difficulty handling the mainsail - Flaking on the 
> boom, removing or installing on the boom, operations if you have a sail cover 
> or stack pack.
> 
> How would you move the mast to boom fixture, the "goose neck"?  What scar 
> would remain?  Mine is welded.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 8:33 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List  > wrote:
> All,
> 
> Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 
> 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> 
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there 
> is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the 
> boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if 
> she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice for comfort 
> and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> 
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced the 
> boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> 
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan 
> 
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I think Touche's boom has been raised.  The bracket is attached with
machine screws.  There is a separate pattern of fastener holes below the
bracket which may be the original location.  It appears to have been raised
4-5 inches.

Although I have no way to compare before and after, the boat sails well.

You might consider modifying your mainsail instead.  The leech of Touche's
racing main is too long for us to sail it with the bimini up.  As this sail
ages, I have considered retiring it to cruising service.  I would have my
sail maker shorten the leech to have it clear the bimini.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8
> to 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
>
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so
> there is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current
> height the boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps
> her head if she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice
> for comfort and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
>
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced
> the boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
>
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Also consider the added difficulty handling the mainsail - Flaking on the
boom, removing or installing on the boom, operations if you have a sail
cover or stack pack.

How would you move the mast to boom fixture, the "goose neck"?  What scar
would remain?  Mine is welded.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 8:33 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List 
wrote:

> All,
>
> Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8
> to 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
>
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so
> there is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current
> height the boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps
> her head if she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice
> for comfort and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
>
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced
> the boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
>
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

All,

Having sailed our 1981 C&C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 10 
inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?

We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten mainsail 
(which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it doesn’t 
correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully raised and 
the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there is plenty of 
room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the boom is about 
eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if she is not careful 
- getting it above head height would be nice for comfort and would also allow 
the dodger to be a bit higher.

I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy conditions, 
but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or balance.  It will 
also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the effectiveness of the 
cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I don’t think that will be so 
important.  However, I love how well balanced the boat is - she sails 
beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.

Thoughts?
Thanks,
Nathan 

S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34
Lynn, MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray