Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[SEAN CONNER via CnC-List]

When I bought our 34 back in 1996 I noticed unused holes about 10" under the 
boom.  It took me a few years to figure out the boom had been raised by prior 
owner;  this was when I was measuring for a new main and the old sail 
measurements were shorter than the specs.  So I don't have good reference for 
how it impacted performance, but I can't imagine lowering the boom considering 
the head clearance, etc;  I also had the main made so it was ~6" below the top 
of the mast.  My experience racing this boat over the years is the main is the 
minority of your performance.. it's all about the right headsail, right amount 
of heel and VMG downwind with the spinnaker.   Btw, I did have a SS gooseneck 
made as the aluminum OEM was not going to last.  
Sean Conner/LADYHAWKE

> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:53:40 -0400
> From: Nathan Post 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?
> Message-ID: <705a1bc9-73cb-4edb-8433-f865bbdac...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Good thinking John.  I?ll assess that gap a bit more carefully next time I am 
> out.  Thanks, Nathan
> 
> 
> > On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Nathan
> >  
> > On our 34, there is a reason why the head is a foot or so below the top; of 
> > the mast.  It is to provide room for the sail headboard to fit between the 
> > aft edge of the mast and the backstay.  Keep that in mind as you are 
> > thinking of altering things
> >  
> > John and Maryann
> > Legacy III
> > 1982 C&C 34
> > Noank, CT
> >

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Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you were interested in knowing why the SmartPlug might be better than the 
traditional shore power plug, this article provides some background: 
https://marinehowto.com/shore-power-cords-smartplug-vs-1938/.

Marek

From: bwhitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 21:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore ; Jack Fitzgerald
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

I also installed a smartplug on my 37/40+. The screws matched, but I had to use 
my dremel to grind out some extra space where it passed through the fiberglass.

Absolutely well worth it.   A much better connection at the boat.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Date: 8/7/18 2:12 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay , Jack Fitzgerald 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

All,

I also converted to the SmartPlug and kicking myself for not doing it sooner. 
Easy, solid connection.

Warning: if you have a 37+ or XL (probably 34+ or XL as well), the SmartPlug 
will not mount in the same location as your existing shore power inlet. You’ll 
have to drill new holes. Still totally worth it.

All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No. NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
——-
914.774.9767 - iPhone
——-
Sent from my iPad
iPad. iTypos. iApologize

On Aug 7, 2018, at 11:41 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 wrote:

All.

I installed a smart plug on Honey and adapted all of my spare power cords and 
adapters to the smart plug configuration. This was money well spent, no more 
burnt shore plugs. I only wish that I had made this conversion a couple of 
years ago.

I purchased mine from Defender since they had the best price at the time.


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - C&C 39 TM (#69/1974)
US12788
Savannah, GA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
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On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 11:11 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Alan.
Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???
Thanks
Ron C.


Sent from XFINITY Connect Application


-Original Message-

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
Sent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without any 
threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the cover 
snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with cord, or 
you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.  That's what I did 
when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.

I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30 amps.  
I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next.



Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:
I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about $40
as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new attachment
for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.

I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.

I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on the
docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and
the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doin

Re: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The factory one I have in my basement says 13.5 x 9. And it is on a 7/8 inch 
shaft. Replaced with a 14 x 9 Flex-o-fold.

Gary (1980 30-1)

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jeremy Cox via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 6:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Cox 
Subject: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C&C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing 
it.

 

Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.

 

Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as the 
pitch and shaft size?

 

or where I could find that info?

 

thanks

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Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 
yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
 
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).
 
Thanks,
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
 
cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: fall rendezvous Annapolis

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

FYI –  It will be very hard at best to have any kind of sailing/racing event. 
Annapolis slips and moorings are considered free if you leave, there is no one 
keeping other boats from taking them if you are out. I have a cheap blow up 
dinghy that I got for about $50 to leave on moorings for this reason.


Joe
Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 I went with the hand sanding method on my 37 simply because there were no 
other options, (like soda blasting) available; its back breaking dirty work and 
takes forever...; I ended up buying a really good orbital sander with a vacuum 
system, (about $1,100.00), which worked well using 80 (and sometimes 60) grit 
paper; about the only thing I can say for it is that I became really intimate 
with my hull...knowing every blemish, blister or ding does have some value when 
you're faring etc.,  If I had a choice I would have easily gone for the soda 
blasting: 

 


Richard


s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: cenelson 
Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 9:33 am
Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms



I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 
yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
 
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).
 
Thanks,
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
 
cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I had a yard in Mattapoisett blast the bottom of Rum Runner. They uses 
walnut shells and I believe they charged me $1000.  Well worth it.  No 
impact on the gel coat whatsoever.  In fat they commented that the 
bottom looked as though it just came out of the showroom when they were 
done.



On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as 
both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with 
it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Ditto

From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bushma...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

I went with the hand sanding method on my 37 simply because there were no other 
options, (like soda blasting) available; its back breaking dirty work and takes 
forever...; I ended up buying a really good orbital sander with a vacuum 
system, (about $1,100.00), which worked well using 80 (and sometimes 60) grit 
paper; about the only thing I can say for it is that I became really intimate 
with my hull...knowing every blemish, blister or ding does have some value when 
you're faring etc.,  If I had a choice I would have easily gone for the soda 
blasting: 


Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: cenelson 
Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 9:33 am
Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms


I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 
yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).

Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Question: does the soda/walnut shell blasting affect a barrier coat like 
Interprotect?

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:45 AM
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

I had a yard in Mattapoisett blast the bottom of Rum Runner.  They uses walnut 
shells and I believe they charged me $1000.  Well worth it.  No impact on the 
gel coat whatsoever.  In fat they commented that the bottom looked as though it 
just came out of the showroom when they were done.




On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

  I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 
  yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).

  Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).

  Thanks,

  Charlie Nelson
  Water Phantom
  1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

  cenel...@aol.com


   

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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

I had my C&C 24 Soda blasted in 2016.  Awesome!  I then did 3-4 coats of
interlux barrier coat, then ablative anti-fouling paint.

I did some fairing and minor sanding.  Fixes a keel smile with rebed, too.

Surveyor this past spring gave me a passing grade on all.

It's way easier for sure.  And can help you find issues early.

Good Luck,

Doug
s/v Red Sky
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

well if it didn't even take the shine off the original gel coat, I'd say 
the barrier coat should be pretty safe.



On 8/8/2018 9:47 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
Question: does the soda/walnut shell blasting affect a barrier coat 
like Interprotect?

*From:* Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:45 AM
*To:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Danny Haughey 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

I had a yard in Mattapoisett blast the bottom of Rum Runner.  They 
uses walnut shells and I believe they charged me $1000.  Well worth 
it.  No impact on the gel coat whatsoever.  In fat they commented that 
the bottom looked as though it just came out of the showroom when they 
were done.



On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as 
both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed 
with it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


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list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Dan via CnC-List]

How bad is the flaking? - My boat also had some flaking paint when we
hauled out this spring. It has 4 or 5 coats of bottom paint, then barrier
coat, primer, then gel coat. Some of the flaking was down to the barrier
coat, but most of it was just bottom paint. The cost and time involved to
re-apply primer, then barrier coat, THEN bottom paint would have been a
real challenge. We just scraped away the flaky stuff by hand using drywall
knives, then sanded the whole thing using 2 orbital sanders and 60 grit
discs to take off the ridges and rough spots, then applied fresh
anti-fouling paint. It looks pretty smooth. I feel better knowing I still
have several layers of paint built up on there as opposed to just one or
two fresh layers that could be easily scraped off.

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 10:45 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ditto
>
> *From:* bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:44 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bushma...@aol.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms
>
> I went with the hand sanding method on my 37 simply because there were no
> other options, (like soda blasting) available; its back breaking dirty work
> and takes forever...; I ended up buying a really good orbital sander with a
> vacuum system, (about $1,100.00), which worked well using 80 (and sometimes
> 60) grit paper; about the only thing I can say for it is that I became
> really intimate with my hull...knowing every blemish, blister or ding does
> have some value when you're faring etc.,  If I had a choice I would have
> easily gone for the soda blasting:
>
> Richard
>
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: cenelson 
> Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 9:33 am
> Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms
>
> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to
> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and
> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>
> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it
> (or stay with the sanding method).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Charlie,

I just finished this process about two weeks ago.

Each year because of the flaking I would sand the hull, getting rid of 
some old buildup, but inevitably the newly applied antifouling paint 
would flake off more of the old stuff and mess up the paint. I finally 
had enough, had the yard soda blast, cost $2,000 to bring in the 
contractor.  The gel coat on my '73 35-1 is in poor shape, lots of 
crazing and pitting.  I did some filling with G-glex epoxy/410 filler on 
the worst stuff, then 4 coats Interprotect 2000e and anitfouling.  (The 
yard quoted me $7,000 to put on one coat of primer and two coats of 
antifouling, if the price had been somewhat reasonable I would have had 
them do that too.)


Everyone who removed the paint by hand (with smaller boats than my 35) 
said "don't do it by hand", and I'm sure they're right, just the filling 
and painting was bad enough on my back.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as 
both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with 
it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Neil; I forgot to add that to my earlier post: we did the same; four coats of 
the G-flex epoxy on the entire hull, (including keel), then two coats of bottom 
paint: Intreprotect 2000e; at least I know its done right!

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 10:34 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms


Charlie,

I just finished this process about two weeks ago.  

Each year because of the flaking I would sand the hull, getting ridof 
some old buildup, but inevitably the newly applied antifoulingpaint would 
flake off more of the old stuff and mess up the paint. I finally had 
enough, had the yard soda blast, cost $2,000 to bringin the contractor.  
The gel coat on my '73 35-1 is in poor shape,lots of crazing and pitting.  
I did some filling with G-glexepoxy/410 filler on the worst stuff, then 4 
coats Interprotect 2000eand anitfouling.  (The yard quoted me $7,000 to put 
on one coat ofprimer and two coats of antifouling, if the price had been 
somewhatreasonable I would have had them do that too.)

Everyone who removed the paint by hand (with smaller boats than my35) 
said "don't do it by hand", and I'm sure they're right, just thefilling and 
painting was bad enough on my back.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

  




  
  
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

Have no experience with this “yet” but have a similar bottom situation.  This 
past spring I asked the yard manager about it and he estimated if he [the yard] 
were to do all of work [subcontracting the soda blasting] and supplies the full 
job would be ~ $7,000.  He said the soda blasting frequently leaves pitting in 
the gelcoat which then needs to be filled / sanded / filled and faired / 
sanded, barrier coats and finally 2-3 coats of bottom paint.  He is pretty 
relaxed about DIY and said that $$$ amount could be reduced depending on how 
much of the labor I want to do, and if I supply the barrier coat and bottom 
paint materials.  I am NOT going to sand off the bottom paint myself; using a 
random orbital sander this spring managed to get too much paint dust / 
particles in my eyes, even with goggles.  

 

Find it difficult to rationalize investing that much in a 30 yo boat I have 
owned for 20 years, especially if there is a possibility there might be a 
“next” boat in the future…  

 

I like Danny’s $1k and good finish on the bottom much better…Danny:  Which 
yard in Mattapoisett did you use?  And what time of year was the work done?  
Would guess there are seasonal variations in the rate schedule.  Thanks. 

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

 

I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).

 

Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

 

cenel...@aol.com  

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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

A boat in our boatyard had their hull soda blasted and it looked like concrete 
when done.   They ended up having to do 3-4 coats of epoxy filler and then 
fairing the entire hull.   I was envious when their boat was stripped in 1 day 
but then seeing the extra work and sanding required, felt great with my option 
to sand. 

I redid my hull this year as well.   There were many layers of ablative paint.  
 I took down to gel coat / barrier with a 80 / 100 grit sanding using a festool 
sander.   Already had from work which was a plus but would have bought it for 
this job alone.   

Then two coats of petit epoxy  barrier and 2 coats of petit vivid over top of 
that.I must say, I love the vivid paint.Boats been back in the water 4 
months now, on the river, and have zero growth.When scraping with my 
fingernails, nothing comes off, growth or paint, and the hull feels nicely 
polished.   

Overall it took about 50 hours start to finish at a casual pace working solo on 
the boat. If I didn’t truly enjoy it, probably not a money savings in 
taking time from work but satisfaction wise, would do again.

As a side, last year I did the "1000 dollar" option, scraped off loose stuff, 
overcoat with 2 coats of ablative and it all sheeted off during the year.   I 
have ideas of what happened, but I kind of knew i was putting a band aid on 
something more serious.  Wasted my time and money.

I’ve quickly learned with sailing there are no shortcuts.

Donald








> On Aug 8, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
>  
> Have no experience with this “yet” but have a similar bottom situation.  This 
> past spring I asked the yard manager about it and he estimated if he [the 
> yard] were to do all of work [subcontracting the soda blasting] and supplies 
> the full job would be ~ $7,000.  He said the soda blasting frequently leaves 
> pitting in the gelcoat which then needs to be filled / sanded / filled and 
> faired / sanded, barrier coats and finally 2-3 coats of bottom paint.  He is 
> pretty relaxed about DIY and said that $$$ amount could be reduced depending 
> on how much of the labor I want to do, and if I supply the barrier coat and 
> bottom paint materials.  I am NOT going to sand off the bottom paint myself; 
> using a random orbital sander this spring managed to get too much paint dust 
> / particles in my eyes, even with goggles. 
>  
> Find it difficult to rationalize investing that much in a 30 yo boat I have 
> owned for 20 years, especially if there is a possibility there might be a 
> “next” boat in the future… 
>  
> I like Danny’s $1k and good finish on the bottom much better…Danny:  
> Which yard in Mattapoisett did you use?  And what time of year was the work 
> done?  Would guess there are seasonal variations in the rate schedule.  
> Thanks.
>  
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
> Nelson via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms
>  
> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>  
> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
> stay with the sanding method).
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>  
> cenel...@aol.com 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

When I purchased Half Magic, it had huge chunks of antifouling paint peeling 
off with the bare gelcoat (in pristine condition) revealing underneath.  My 
boatyard hired an outside contractor to soda blast and charged me $875 for the 
service.   There was another $2500 in charges for 3 layers of barrier coat and 
antifouling with prep work and sanding in between each layer.  The result was a 
nice smooth cruising bottom that has held up well for the past 3 seasons (with 
touch up to the antifouling each spring).

Our boatyard (and many in our area) doesn’t allow any owner sanding done to 
bottoms due to issues with clean up and environmental liabilities.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 9:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

 

I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).

 

Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

 

cenel...@aol.com  

___

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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Donald when you say “hull”, did you just do the bottom (wetted surface), or did 
you do the topsides as well?

The reason I ask is because I’m contemplating both on my boat this coming 
offseason, and am trying to do the trade-off about whether to do it myself or 
hire it out, etc.  For me it looks like the biggest issue in doing it myself is 
finding a place to put the boat for doing the work (can’t do it in the dry 
storage yard I use, I can’t find an available rental garage that will allow 
that kind of work, etc.)

Cheers,
Randy

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 9:04 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> A boat in our boatyard had their hull soda blasted and it looked like 
> concrete when done.   They ended up having to do 3-4 coats of epoxy filler 
> and then fairing the entire hull.   I was envious when their boat was 
> stripped in 1 day but then seeing the extra work and sanding required, felt 
> great with my option to sand. 
> 
> I redid my hull this year as well.   There were many layers of ablative 
> paint.   I took down to gel coat / barrier with a 80 / 100 grit sanding using 
> a festool sander.   Already had from work which was a plus but would have 
> bought it for this job alone.   
> 
> Then two coats of petit epoxy  barrier and 2 coats of petit vivid over top of 
> that.I must say, I love the vivid paint.Boats been back in the water 
> 4 months now, on the river, and have zero growth.When scraping with my 
> fingernails, nothing comes off, growth or paint, and the hull feels nicely 
> polished.   
> 
> Overall it took about 50 hours start to finish at a casual pace working solo 
> on the boat. If I didn’t truly enjoy it, probably not a money savings in 
> taking time from work but satisfaction wise, would do again.
> 
> As a side, last year I did the "1000 dollar" option, scraped off loose stuff, 
> overcoat with 2 coats of ablative and it all sheeted off during the year.   I 
> have ideas of what happened, but I kind of knew i was putting a band aid on 
> something more serious.  Wasted my time and money.
> 
> I’ve quickly learned with sailing there are no shortcuts.
> 
> Donald
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 8, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Charlie,
>>  
>> Have no experience with this “yet” but have a similar bottom situation.  
>> This past spring I asked the yard manager about it and he estimated if he 
>> [the yard] were to do all of work [subcontracting the soda blasting] and 
>> supplies the full job would be ~ $7,000.  He said the soda blasting 
>> frequently leaves pitting in the gelcoat which then needs to be filled / 
>> sanded / filled and faired / sanded, barrier coats and finally 2-3 coats of 
>> bottom paint.  He is pretty relaxed about DIY and said that $$$ amount could 
>> be reduced depending on how much of the labor I want to do, and if I supply 
>> the barrier coat and bottom paint materials.  I am NOT going to sand off the 
>> bottom paint myself; using a random orbital sander this spring managed to 
>> get too much paint dust / particles in my eyes, even with goggles.  
>>  
>> Find it difficult to rationalize investing that much in a 30 yo boat I have 
>> owned for 20 years, especially if there is a possibility there might be a 
>> “next” boat in the future…  
>>  
>> I like Danny’s $1k and good finish on the bottom much better…Danny:  
>> Which yard in Mattapoisett did you use?  And what time of year was the work 
>> done?  Would guess there are seasonal variations in the rate schedule.  
>> Thanks. 
>>  
>> Brian
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:33 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
>> Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms
>>  
>> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
>> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
>> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 
>> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>>  
>> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it 
>> (or stay with the sanding method).
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to suppo

Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[schiller via CnC-List]

The last time that I did Corsair (1970 Redwing 35), I used my pressure 
washer and a turbo nozzle.  Stripped the paint off without affecting the 
barrier coat.  I put down a tarp to collect the bottom paint (Micron 
CSC), but the yard didn't really care.  I got the tarp from Harbor 
Freight and just tossed it after I was done.  Paint came off pretty 
easily once I got the technique down.  A light sand afterwards and two 
coats of Micron CSC and I was back in business.  I tried the pressure 
washer on the advice of the yard owner.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as 
both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with 
it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I had my hull soda blasted about 4 years ago and it was a very positive 
experience--all done in about 4 hours and cost less than $1000 as I recall.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>  
> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
> stay with the sanding method).
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

I just did the diy style this winter went to boat once a weekend  starting in 
January for 2-3 hours. Scrapped whole hull 30 years of paint  C&c 40 

Dust deputy. Pro Scrapper and wet dry vac. Then sanded with random orbital 5 
inch use the 3m sand paper 80 grit.  Better then the stuff at Lowe’s 

petit epoxy filler as needed   Then 
4 coats. Sea hawk barrier. Then hard ablative  sea hawk 

Total time about 50-60 hours.  Spread out so I just had a good shoulder work 
out 

A friend of mind did it all in 2 weeks on his 35 ft Erickson (he’s retired so 
had way more time then me)

My boat just launched today delay was due to other issues and kids schedule  
but in theory it could have been launched in June 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 12:11 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had my hull soda blasted about 4 years ago and it was a very positive 
> experience--all done in about 4 hours and cost less than $1000 as I recall.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> 
>> On Aug 8, 2018, at 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
>> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
>> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
>> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>>  
>> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it 
>> (or stay with the sanding method).
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

I always wondered if this would work. How many PSI was your pressure washer?


/John

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 12:09 PM, schiller  wrote:
> 
> The last time that I did Corsair (1970 Redwing 35), I used my pressure washer 
> and a turbo nozzle.  Stripped the paint off without affecting the barrier 
> coat.  I put down a tarp to collect the bottom paint (Micron CSC), but the 
> yard didn't really care.  I got the tarp from Harbor Freight and just tossed 
> it after I was done.  Paint came off pretty easily once I got the technique 
> down.  A light sand afterwards and two coats of Micron CSC and I was back in 
> business.  I tried the pressure washer on the advice of the yard owner.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C&C 35-3, #028
> "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
> 
>> On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
>> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
>> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
>> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>>  
>> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it 
>> (or stay with the sanding method).
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[schiller via CnC-List]

My pressure washer is a Briggs and Stratton 2200 psi, 2.2 gpm unit.  If 
I remember correctly, it only took two full yanks of gas.  This only 
worked because my yard owner didn't care as long as I put a tarp down.  
I'm not at all sure how much runoff I had.  I tried to catch as much as 
I could.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/8/2018 2:35 PM, John Christopher wrote:
I always wondered if this would work. How many PSI was your pressure 
washer?



/John

On Aug 8, 2018, at 12:09 PM, schiller > wrote:


The last time that I did Corsair (1970 Redwing 35), I used my 
pressure washer and a turbo nozzle. Stripped the paint off without 
affecting the barrier coat. I put down a tarp to collect the bottom 
paint (Micron CSC), but the yard didn't really care.  I got the tarp 
from Harbor Freight and just tossed it after I was done.  Paint came 
off pretty easily once I got the technique down.  A light sand 
afterwards and two coats of Micron CSC and I was back in business.  I 
tried the pressure washer on the advice of the yard owner.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as 
both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed 
with it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


___

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to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[schiller via CnC-List]

I should point out that the most important component was the turbo spray 
head.  This allowed lifting the paint without gouging into the gel coat.


BTW, it was two *tanks*, not yanks, of gas.  Remember, spell check is 
your worst enema!


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/8/2018 4:01 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote:
My pressure washer is a Briggs and Stratton 2200 psi, 2.2 gpm unit.  
If I remember correctly, it only took two full yanks of gas.  This 
only worked because my yard owner didn't care as long as I put a tarp 
down.  I'm not at all sure how much runoff I had.  I tried to catch as 
much as I could.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/8/2018 2:35 PM, John Christopher wrote:
I always wondered if this would work. How many PSI was your pressure 
washer?



/John

On Aug 8, 2018, at 12:09 PM, schiller > wrote:


The last time that I did Corsair (1970 Redwing 35), I used my 
pressure washer and a turbo nozzle.  Stripped the paint off without 
affecting the barrier coat.  I put down a tarp to collect the bottom 
paint (Micron CSC), but the yard didn't really care.  I got the tarp 
from Harbor Freight and just tossed it after I was done.  Paint came 
off pretty easily once I got the technique down.  A light sand 
afterwards and two coats of Micron CSC and I was back in business.  
I tried the pressure washer on the advice of the yard owner.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting 
as both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that 
the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed 
with it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


___

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to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I was over at the boat yesterday and explored several.  The one that looks
most promising was suggested by several listers, the continuous line from
forward to the cockpit.  I attached a line to the toerail and brought it
outside the lifelines back to the primary winch.  I configured it such
that, when dropped on the pier's outermost cleat, it will stop the boat and
keep the stern from swinging away from the pier.  Didn't actually try it
but I am optimistic.

The challenge will be dropping it on the cleat if single handing.  It's a
floating pier and the cleat is a couple feet below the toe rail.

BTW, I will attach the line to the toe rail with a soft shackle.  That will
prevent damage to the toe rail anodizing as well as minimize damage to the
dock line.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
> I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
> pilings.  Whoopee.
>
> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
> from the starboard side.
>
> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
> Docking
> stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
> neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
> looking at a working boatyard.
>
> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls
> the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to
> port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The
> wind and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
>
> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
> the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
> to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
> midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
> outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
> is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
> secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
> this process but we manage it.
>
> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
> back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
> myself.
>
> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Richard Gonesailing via CnC-List]

Had our hull sofa blasted 4 years ago took the guy a hour roughly and he 
changed 700 con to do the job no damage done to the gel coat 

Richard

Sent from my iPad Pro
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> On Aug 8, 2018, at 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 
> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>  
> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
> stay with the sanding method).
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have numerous "soft shackles" on my toe rail and mast collar.  They
aren't actually soft shackles but rather small diameter continuous loops
that I luggage tag onto the metal fixtures.  Each one costs about 18" of
amsteel and less than 5 minutes to make.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Aug 8, 2018, 5:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
> I was over at the boat yesterday and explored several.  The one that looks
> most promising was suggested by several listers, the continuous line from
> forward to the cockpit.  I attached a line to the toerail and brought it
> outside the lifelines back to the primary winch.  I configured it such
> that, when dropped on the pier's outermost cleat, it will stop the boat and
> keep the stern from swinging away from the pier.  Didn't actually try it
> but I am optimistic.
>
> The challenge will be dropping it on the cleat if single handing.  It's a
> floating pier and the cleat is a couple feet below the toe rail.
>
> BTW, I will attach the line to the toe rail with a soft shackle.  That
> will prevent damage to the toe rail anodizing as well as minimize damage to
> the dock line.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
>> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
>> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
>> I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
>> pilings.  Whoopee.
>>
>> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
>> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
>> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
>> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
>> from the starboard side.
>>
>> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
>> Docking
>> stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
>> neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
>> looking at a working boatyard.
>>
>> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls
>> the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to
>> port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The
>> wind and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
>>
>> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
>> the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
>> to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
>> midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
>> outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
>> is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
>> secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
>> this process but we manage it.
>>
>> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
>> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
>> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
>> back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
>> myself.
>>
>> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

Maybe this docking stick is of help. You can find it on Amazon.

https://youtu.be/0YSn3qR_FQw

https://youtu.be/NUTim_7PVJQ

/John

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 5:25 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions.  
> 
> I was over at the boat yesterday and explored several.  The one that looks 
> most promising was suggested by several listers, the continuous line from 
> forward to the cockpit.  I attached a line to the toerail and brought it 
> outside the lifelines back to the primary winch.  I configured it such that, 
> when dropped on the pier's outermost cleat, it will stop the boat and keep 
> the stern from swinging away from the pier.  Didn't actually try it but I am 
> optimistic.
> 
> The challenge will be dropping it on the cleat if single handing.  It's a 
> floating pier and the cleat is a couple feet below the toe rail.
> 
> BTW, I will attach the line to the toe rail with a soft shackle.  That will 
> prevent damage to the toe rail anodizing as well as minimize damage to the 
> dock line.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  
>> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both 
>> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I 
>> can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any 
>> pilings.  Whoopee.
>> 
>> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different 
>> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just 
>> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings 
>> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is 
>> from the starboard side.  
>> 
>> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
>> Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off 
>> towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is 
>> preferable to looking at a working boatyard.
>> 
>> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
>> boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
>> when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
>> prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
>> 
>> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best 
>> the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle 
>> to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of 
>> midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost 
>> cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, 
>> we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a 
>> stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through this 
>> process but we manage it.
>> 
>> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself 
>> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the 
>> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping 
>> back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by 
>> myself.
>> 
>> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey folks

I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion or 
stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, ground to 
engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and through hull 
I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind generator, with 
the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  Also the prop shaft 
was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled out to do the centre 
board.

Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
methodically and what I should look for.


Thanks in advance
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
Long Sault___

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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes the docking stick ! there is a solo sailor youtube channel search Patrick 
Laine ( bavaria 40)  hes great , his latest several recent videos of using this 
stick it and loving it !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Aug 8, 2018, at 7:35 PM, John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Dennis,

Maybe this docking stick is of help. You can find it on Amazon.

https://youtu.be/0YSn3qR_FQw

https://youtu.be/NUTim_7PVJQ

/John

On Aug 8, 2018, at 5:25 PM, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I was over at the boat yesterday and explored several.  The one that looks most 
promising was suggested by several listers, the continuous line from forward to 
the cockpit.  I attached a line to the toerail and brought it outside the 
lifelines back to the primary winch.  I configured it such that, when dropped 
on the pier's outermost cleat, it will stop the boat and keep the stern from 
swinging away from the pier.  Didn't actually try it but I am optimistic.

The challenge will be dropping it on the cleat if single handing.  It's a 
floating pier and the cleat is a couple feet below the toe rail.

BTW, I will attach the line to the toe rail with a soft shackle.  That will 
prevent damage to the toe rail anodizing as well as minimize damage to the dock 
line.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  Touche's 
"home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both outboard and 
midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I can competently 
back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different scenario. 
 First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just short of full 
boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings between Touche' and 
my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards 
my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to 
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to the 
finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, have 
crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on the 
finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern 
in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  The stern 
still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself approaching 
the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the steering station 
past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back on the boat, 
warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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to send contribution --   
https://nam04.safelinks.protectio

Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Picture of those Josh ?
I just picked up some 1”flat webbing to make a few connection points to run 
thru toerail will tie or hook to those istead  of  directly to rail

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Aug 8, 2018, at 6:58 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have numerous "soft shackles" on my toe rail and mast collar.  They aren't 
actually soft shackles but rather small diameter continuous loops that I 
luggage tag onto the metal fixtures.  Each one costs about 18" of amsteel and 
less than 5 minutes to make.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Aug 8, 2018, 5:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I was over at the boat yesterday and explored several.  The one that looks most 
promising was suggested by several listers, the continuous line from forward to 
the cockpit.  I attached a line to the toerail and brought it outside the 
lifelines back to the primary winch.  I configured it such that, when dropped 
on the pier's outermost cleat, it will stop the boat and keep the stern from 
swinging away from the pier.  Didn't actually try it but I am optimistic.

The challenge will be dropping it on the cleat if single handing.  It's a 
floating pier and the cleat is a couple feet below the toe rail.

BTW, I will attach the line to the toe rail with a soft shackle.  That will 
prevent damage to the toe rail anodizing as well as minimize damage to the dock 
line.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  Touche's 
"home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both outboard and 
midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I can competently 
back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different scenario. 
 First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just short of full 
boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings between Touche' and 
my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards 
my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to 
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to the 
finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, have 
crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on the 
finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern 
in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  The stern 
still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself approaching 
the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the steering station 
past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back on the boat, 
warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

What is the condition of your shaft zincs?

Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
type of water your boats in?

Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion 
> or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, 
> ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and 
> through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind 
> generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  
> Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled 
> out to do the centre board.
> 
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
> methodically and what I should look for.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
> Long Sault
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Performance Tees

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Interesting - I emailed the company on 12th July with a couple questions.
No response yet.

On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 2:59 PM, Colin A. Flock via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With the all of the threads on the great shirts from Maritime Tees I did
> not see any comments on the Performance Tees he offers.  We have a new (to
> us) C&C 29-2 and there was only a C&C 29 on the site so he made up new ones
> for us very quickly.
>
> Received them today, one long sleeve and one short but both performance,
> they are a 65/35 poly/cotton blend so soft and fit well.  I am 6 foot and
> average build, the large is perfect.  My wife got the long sleeve in small,
> she is normally a medium in women's petite and 5'3".
>
> Have not washed them yet but suspect with the blend they will not shrink.
>
> Great service will likely order again.
>
> Colin
> C&C 29 Toronto, ON
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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