Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Neil,

Thanks for the explanation. I hadn't thought of the electronics issue, as
my boat is pretty spartan. I monitor my depth sounder which has a voltage
readout during starting, and have seen it drop below 11V, but it doesn't
seem to mind, but other gear might. Since both my A-B switches are old, I
might just consider this upgrade when I redo the electrical, as I do like
the flexibility it offers, and we plan on adding Radar soon.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 6:15 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can
> deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained
> significantly, on the starting bank,  and deep-cycle type which are
> intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer time, on the house
> bank.  It would depend your use and on how often you recharge whether this
> is important or not, to be sure.  And there are now dual purpose batteries,
> so it may be less of an issue if you use them.
>
> One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting voltage
> dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,  one of the
> main reasons I chose this.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often
> is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being
> drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries,
> I could just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and
> a switch between the buses? Something to consider depending on how far I
> get carried away with my electrical. Currently I have 2 banks, with room
> for a 3rd, and just leave them combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC
> batteries. If I'm concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays
> away for too long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't
> happened. And so far, the only significant load we have is the fridge, with
> minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change...
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I suggest changing to the linked setup.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
>>> plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
>>> connection.   Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
>>>
>>> I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.
>>>
>>> Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a
>>> battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply
>>> replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure.
>>>
>>> Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if
>>> I’d needed power in a hurry.
>>>
>>> I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter
>>> in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>   Jeremy
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

That’s a fancy version of the one I had years ago (more bells and whistles).

From: Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 11:03 PM
To: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
Cc: Doug Robinson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

I just replaced the old switches with a new BlueSea's panel and their ACS.  
Simple device replaces all the trauma and gets the job done.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=blue-sea-systems-dual-battery-bank-management-panel=-1|328|229|2290006=1446905


On 11/18/19 9:15 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote:

  Shawn,

  This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can deliver 
high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained significantly, 
on the starting bank,  and deep-cycle type which are intended to drain down to 
much lower level over a longer time, on the house bank.  It would depend your 
use and on how often you recharge whether this is important or not, to be sure. 
 And there are now dual purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you 
use them.  

  One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting voltage dip 
from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,  one of the main 
reasons I chose this. 

  Neil Gallagher
  Weatherly, 35-1
  Glen Cove, NY


  On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:

I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often 
is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being 
drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries, I 
could just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and a 
switch between the buses? Something to consider depending on how far I get 
carried away with my electrical. Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, 
and just leave them combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If 
I'm concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for too long 
(and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't happened. And so far, 
the only significant load we have is the fridge, with minimal electronics. Once 
we add radar, that will change... 

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto



On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I suggest changing to the linked setup. 

  
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk


  Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch. 

  Josh Muckley 
  S/V Sea Hawk 
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD

  On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the 
plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky connection. 
  Seems this is a common problem base on this forum: 


https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a 
battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply replacing 
with the same one if it’s prone to failure.  

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if 
I’d needed power in a hurry. 

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter 
in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.  

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?  

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

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and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


  ___

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and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Doug Robinson via CnC-List]

I just replaced the old switches with a new BlueSea's panel and their 
ACS.  Simple device replaces all the trauma and gets the job done.


https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=blue-sea-systems-dual-battery-bank-management-panel=-1|328|229|2290006=1446905

On 11/18/19 9:15 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote:

Shawn,

This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can 
deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be 
drained significantly, on the starting bank,  and deep-cycle type 
which are intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer 
time, on the house bank.  It would depend your use and on how often 
you recharge whether this is important or not, to be sure.  And there 
are now dual purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you 
use them.


One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting 
voltage dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,  
one of the main reasons I chose this.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how 
often is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries 
from being drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or 
start) batteries, I could just additional on/off switches linked to a 
house or start bus, and a switch between the buses? Something to 
consider depending on how far I get carried away with my electrical. 
Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, and just leave them 
combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If I'm 
concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for 
too long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't 
happened. And so far, the only significant load we have is the 
fridge, with minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I suggest changing to the linked setup.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk

Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way —
essentially the plastic broke and the guts of the switch come
apart causing a flaky connection.   Seems this is a common
problem base on this forum:


https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when
I did a battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m
worried about simply replacing with the same one if it’s
prone to failure.

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been
really bad if I’d needed power in a hurry.

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to
the starter in case this happens again or for jump starting,
etc.

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send
contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you
want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Shawn,

This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can 
deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained 
significantly, on the starting bank,  and deep-cycle type which are 
intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer time, on the 
house bank.  It would depend your use and on how often you recharge 
whether this is important or not, to be sure.  And there are now dual 
purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you use them.


One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting 
voltage dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,  
one of the main reasons I chose this.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how 
often is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries 
from being drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or 
start) batteries, I could just additional on/off switches linked to a 
house or start bus, and a switch between the buses? Something to 
consider depending on how far I get carried away with my electrical. 
Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, and just leave them 
combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If I'm 
concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for too 
long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't happened. 
And so far, the only significant load we have is the fridge, with 
minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I suggest changing to the linked setup.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk

Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way —
essentially the plastic broke and the guts of the switch come
apart causing a flaky connection. Seems this is a common
problem base on this forum:


https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I
did a battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried
about simply replacing with the same one if it’s prone to
failure.

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been
really bad if I’d needed power in a hurry.

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to
the starter in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Blue Sea Systems used to have a simpler switch to separate the house and engine 
batteries (or combine them if the starting battery failed to start the engine). 
 This is the setup I had on my 34.  I kept the old Perko 1-2-all switch for the 
two house bank batteries, although I usually kept that switch on “all.”  

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 7:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often is 
that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being drained 
by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries, I could 
just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and a switch 
between the buses? Something to consider depending on how far I get carried 
away with my electrical. Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, and 
just leave them combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If I'm 
concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for too long 
(and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't happened. And so far, 
the only significant load we have is the fridge, with minimal electronics. Once 
we add radar, that will change... 

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto



On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I suggest changing to the linked setup. 

  
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk


  Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch. 

  Josh Muckley 
  S/V Sea Hawk 
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD

  On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the 
plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky connection. 
  Seems this is a common problem base on this forum: 


https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a 
battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply replacing 
with the same one if it’s prone to failure.  

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d 
needed power in a hurry. 

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in 
case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.  

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?  

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often
is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being
drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries,
I could just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and
a switch between the buses? Something to consider depending on how far I
get carried away with my electrical. Currently I have 2 banks, with room
for a 3rd, and just leave them combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC
batteries. If I'm concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays
away for too long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't
happened. And so far, the only significant load we have is the fridge, with
minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I suggest changing to the linked setup.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
>> plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
>> connection.   Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:
>>
>>
>> https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
>>
>> I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.
>>
>> Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a
>> battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply
>> replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure.
>>
>> Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if
>> I’d needed power in a hurry.
>>
>> I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter
>> in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.
>>
>> Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>   Jeremy
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I just dealt with this issue this summer, and wound up using this approach:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A

The switch actually has three positions, Off, On and Combine.  In On, 
the house and starting circuits are isolated,  in Combine they are 
connected.  It appears to accomplish almost the same as the 3 on/off 
switches, but it would not let you turn one battery "off" and power both 
circuits with a single battery. You'd have to disconnect the battery 
lead.  On the other hand, less wiring and fewer switches.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/18/2019 6:11 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
3 switches actually allow more flexibility if you need to start the 
engine with the house battery or power the house with the start 
battery.  They are also cheaper...and when/if one breaks you don't 
have an entire system failure to deal with.


FWIW, That switch setup is referenced in a book by Don Casey.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 4:50 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks all for the responses.

Yeah ,I should really call but less chance of me getting angrier
with an email.  Redoing this stuff is a major PITA as you all know
and I’ve lost some trust in all the Blue Sea stuff I spent a
bundle on

RE: do away with the 1-2-all switch in place of 3 switches.  I do
have an ACR (that came with the blue sea switch).  The switch can
then do  ON, force combine, off.  What’s the benefit of having 3
switches?  Different combinations of house, start, combine on/off?


Thanks,
  Jeremy




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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

3 switches actually allow more flexibility if you need to start the engine
with the house battery or power the house with the start battery.  They are
also cheaper...and when/if one breaks you don't have an entire system
failure to deal with.

FWIW, That switch setup is referenced in a book by Don Casey.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 4:50 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks all for the responses.
>
> Yeah ,I should really call but less chance of me getting angrier with an
> email.  Redoing this stuff is a major PITA as you all know and I’ve lost
> some trust in all the Blue Sea stuff I spent a bundle on
>
> RE: do away with the 1-2-all switch in place of 3 switches.  I do have an
> ACR (that came with the blue sea switch).  The switch can then do  ON,
> force combine, off.  What’s the benefit of having 3 switches?  Different
> combinations of house, start, combine on/off?
>
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the responses.

Yeah ,I should really call but less chance of me getting angrier with an
email.  Redoing this stuff is a major PITA as you all know and I’ve lost
some trust in all the Blue Sea stuff I spent a bundle on

RE: do away with the 1-2-all switch in place of 3 switches.  I do have an
ACR (that came with the blue sea switch).  The switch can then do  ON,
force combine, off.  What’s the benefit of having 3 switches?  Different
combinations of house, start, combine on/off?


Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Yikes!

I have one of these switches for my inverter. Job one before the boat 
moves again is securing the wires to not pull on the switch at all!


Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[David Risch via CnC-List]

I have this set-up…simple and effective.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 4:56 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

I suggest changing to the linked setup.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk

Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the plastic 
broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky connection.   Seems 
this is a common problem base on this forum:

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a battery 
upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply replacing with the 
same one if it’s prone to failure.

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d 
needed power in a hurry.

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in case 
this happens again or for jump starting, etc.

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Thickness of acrylic cabin windows on LF38?

[john sandford via CnC-List]

I used 3/8 (10mm).

Found a similar hard epoxy was used from the original build,  which I removed 
and frame cleaned up back to fibreglass, using finger sander and ¼ sheet 
sander, and dremmel

Then used Sikalfex 295, with their thinner and cleaner.

Make up 3 external guides to push the window to the curve in the frame. 

They pushed against the genoa track and the shroud turnbuckle bases.

Once set it is better than new.

Make sure that you allow lots of gap at the ends of the new windows to allow 
for the thermal expansion difference between plexi and fibreglass. 

295 stays flexible and will allow movement yet keep the seal.

Did my Stbd windows last winter and will complete the port ones this winter.

 

Remember to get enough 295 to satisfy the formula;

1 tube for the work + 1 tube to get on everythingandeveryonewithin a 3m radius 
= 2 tubes

 

John

LF 38 #234

Echoes

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
Sent: November-16-19 1:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thickness of acrylic cabin windows on LF38?

 

If you had bolts through the windows, that's not a factory method corroborating 
your idea they were probably replaced at some point.  

FWIW, My 34R windows are 1/4" think.  I wanted to go thicker but got the new 
material cut the same as the original thickness to bend the easier and to match 
original specifications.  Glad I did.  The material is very stiff.  Haven't 
started yet. 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, Pasadena Md 



On November 15, 2019 at 9:22 PM Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 wrote: 

Thanks for the replies, sounds like I can use either 3/8" or 1/4". I'm going 
with 3/8" (9mm) for the extra strength and so it will be flush with the 
exterior hull surface. The actual sizes from Acrylite are in mm, I just 
measured in inches out of habit.  

 

I have one window pulled now (it came out quite easily, fortunately, after 
thrubolts were removed). The prep / cleanup looks like it's going to take a 
long time, as expected but maybe a bit worse than expected. This plexus stuff 
is a *pain*.  

 

On the surface closest to the old window was a black rubbery sealant, which 
comes off easily, but below that is some kind of black / brown hard epoxy. From 
prior threads ( 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-February/073099.html ) 
I understand this is a methacrylate adhesive, aka Plexus (the brand name). 
Robert H in the prior thread decided to just fair over it, which I may have to 
do as well in some places.  

 

Another thread that discusses the Plexus headache is by Gary Russell -  
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-December/080369.html 

His experience was a bit different though (he had a very hard time separating 
the old acrylic from the Plexus), which makes me think maybe our windows have 
been previously replaced, and a sealant was used on top of the Plexus. It 
sounds like he used a router or RotoZip to cut off the plexus. 

 

We shall see (this will take a while).  

 

-Patrick 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I suggest changing to the linked setup.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk

Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
> plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
> connection.   Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:
>
>
> https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
>
> I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.
>
> Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a
> battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply
> replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure.
>
> Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d
> needed power in a hurry.
>
> I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in
> case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.
>
> Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

It seems kind of absurd that you would have to engineer a work-around for 
something like that, that should last the life of the boat and then be passed 
on down to your first born.

There must be a better switch than that, I would think .  I always considered 
Blue Sea to be quality stuff.  Altho I just replaced a Blue Sea triple breaker 
that had been made in Mexico, and is now made in (Gasp) China. 

Wonder who makes these for DelCity, they kind of resemble Perko. They may still 
be made in FLA

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/Battery-Switch/p_794068.h_794074





Bill Coleman

Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

 

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the plastic 
broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky connection.   Seems 
this is a common problem base on this forum: 

 

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

 

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

 

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a battery 
upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply replacing with the 
same one if it’s prone to failure.  

 

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d 
needed power in a hurry. 

 

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in case 
this happens again or for jump starting, etc.  

 

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?  

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

My first thought is to pick up the phone and call rather than waiting for a
response to your email. They aren't quick with that. Also someone can hear
the tone in your voice as well.

Jeff
Caposhi
C 35 mk1 #54
Port Stanley ON.

On Mon., Nov. 18, 2019, 2:13 p.m. Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
> plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
> connection.   Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:
>
>
> https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
>
> I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.
>
> Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a
> battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply
> replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure.
>
> Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d
> needed power in a hurry.
>
> I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in
> case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.
>
> Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
connection.   Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a
battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply
replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure.

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d
needed power in a hurry.

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in
case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Spencer,

For walnut shells application try wetting out a separate test piece 
and sprinkle the walnut shells onto it with something like a salt 
shaker. Then a topcoat when just past tacky.


Cheers, Russ


At 11:51 AM 11/17/2019, you wrote:


  ..


Getting the right ratio of walnut to Polyuruthane took some 
testingI found that 1.5 teaspoons walnut to 4 oz. Polyuruthane 
seemed to work.  The final problem is how to keep the crushed 
walnuts suspended long enough to get enough on the brush.   We'll see...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria"
Racine/Waukegan
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Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Removed rudder nut yesterday.  Simple process - support rudder by stacking
blocks under rudder / remove locking allen screws / remove nut (used filter
wrench with good results).  Simple delrin washer between nut and mounting
plate on cockpit floor.  Inspection shows lots of crud, scratches on washer
from said crud with some build up (after 30+ years seems reasonable).
Apparently this cause seal to fail, allowing water / rain to leak in.  Fix
is to clean / polish nut and plate, new washer and reassemble.  Hopefully
that will do it.  Stay tuned.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

 

Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor.  There is
no play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions
normally.  Am suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the
doughnut nut is degraded after almost 30 years.  Not sure if is a thrust
bearing with flange or just a washer.  Before I start disassembling any
thoughts from the group?  Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a
replacement?

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill – grease is not the issue – everything functions just fine and yes 
have a hydraulic hose going to the grease fitting – issue is water / rain 
leaking in

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM 
WALKER via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

 

When was last time you put grease in the cup on the shaft log?  If you don't 
have play in the rudder shaft, this may be your problem.  I am sure you know 
there is a grease cup on the shaft log where it comes through thhe hull.  Use 
Green Grease, a waterproof grease.  Fill the cup, tighten to force grease into 
shaft, turn wheel back and forth, repeat until you see new grease being forced 
out the top of rudder shaft log.  Good two person job as crawling in and out of 
that area of bilge can be tough. 
Hope this helps.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan  

  _  

On Saturday, November 16, 2019 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor.  There is no 
play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions normally.  Am 
suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the doughnut nut is 
degraded after almost 30 years.  Not sure if is a thrust bearing with flange or 
just a washer.  Before I start disassembling any  thoughts from the group?  
Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a replacement?

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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