Stus-List Wire to rope sheaves

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

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> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 13:48:36 -0400
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC discussion list CnC 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply.  The Powerpost Plus looks 
> like a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that.  Do you have 
> that near the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel?  I gather this is 
> not fused, so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and putting 
> it near the panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker.
> In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to the 
> panel.  But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the same 
> size.  There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the rotary 
> switch directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits would only 
> have the panel breakers and no fuse.  I don?t know what was original and what 
> added later as all that predates my work on the wiring.   I plan to map all 
> the circuits this week so I know what comes from each wire.   But that setup 
> does not make sense given what Shawn says about the logic of the fuses near 
> the rotary switch being so you could have a long run of heavy wire to the 
> panel.   Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Dave, 
>> 
>> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common, 
>> especially in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to 
>> carry the load to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss 
>> bar which carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring is 
>> philosophically analogous.
>> 
>> Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a buss 
>> bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect 
>> each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of separate 
>> wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.
>> 
>> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection of 
>> the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON", the 
>> Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a 
>> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then 
>> supplied individually from the buss bar.
>> 
>> Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic might 
>> help.
>> 
>> You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':
>> 
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A 
>> <https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A>
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I understand the wiring in general and how the circuit works.  I am not sure 
>> what the logic is to have created the double crimp tabs in order to bridge 
>> power from one fuse to the other.  I get that each fuse will function for 
>> the circuit that goes to the panel.  What I am unclear on is 
>> #1, why have a fuse before a circuit breaker on the panel 
>> #2- is this the ?right? way to accomplish safe wiring.  I could instead 
>> bring separate wires off the + from the rotary switch to each fuse rather 
>> than the bridging setup if I replace the current fuse holders.  
>> 
>> Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
&g

Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Rick
So that’s topsides and boot stripe(s) only, or hole Hull as well?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Mar 12, 2020, at 1:50 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:


I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years ago. 
On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do myself, 
we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to Awlgrip or Imron. 
William reports very good results, and uses it for most of the paintwork he 
does. Comes on a pretty wide range of colors, one of which was a bit darker 
than the faded smoke white of Imzadi's hull and might be a close match to the 
original C&C color. One big advantage of the Alexseal paint is that it is about 
half the cost of Awlgrip. My cost for getting the boat prepped and painted 
(white topsides, triple red boot stripe, red cove stripe, red transom) was 
$125/foot - about $4800.

The paint has held up very well. Have had some black streaks from black 
rubstrips on an floating dock that washed right off. Had one scratch from a 
bolthead sticking out of a piling, which turned out to be an easy repair using 
some surplus from the original paint. The red transom shows no signs of fading 
yet.

Maintenance is to wash every 3 to 6 months with mild soap and water, and to 
wash annually with a product they sell which I presume is similar to Awlcare. 
BTW, the Alexseal website also lists other alternatives to their maintenance 
product - one of which I recall is made by Meguiars and is available from my 
local West Marine.

In all honesty, there was one small problem when the boat was painted. When 
they sprayed the red for the boot stripes and cove stripes over the white hull, 
the thin red paint leached under the edge of the green 3M masking tape amd left 
a fuzzy edge. So William had to touch up the white, remask the stripes with 
this fiendishly expensive 3M gold masking tape, and reshoot the red stripes. No 
 problem using the higher quality tape.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC
-Original Message-
From: Richard Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Mar 6, 2020 2:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls; if so, 
what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the work; are 
there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots, etcthanks!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, knowing me and my somewhat casual approach to docking, I eschewed
AwlGrip and choose AwlCraft 2000 instead.  It is more easily repairable.

Second, I managed to get Touche' professionally painted for about $4400 in
2011 by doing most the sanding and prep myself.  I lightly sanded,
degreased and prepped a small area for my painter to spray.  He was
painting a nearby boat with white AwlCraft.  When he sprayed the prepped
area, we saw crazy results.  Different layers of old paint reacted
differently.  In some areas the new paint beaded up.  In others, it
dissolved the old paint and made a nasty pink color.

The painter and I knew right away all the old paint had to be sanded off.
I completely removed several coats of old paint using a Hutchins 2000
straight line sander.  Do NOT use a disc sander.  It will gouge the hull.
You must use a straight line sander for best results.  Took me 1 day per
side.

The pro painter shot 3 coats of high build primer then the AwlCraft.  Still
looks good.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 2:17 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a
> 35 foot boat. That would be worth going to NC to get done!
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dave,

Philosophically, the MRBF fuse should protect the wire from the battery to
through the switch to the PowerPost.  That wire should be sized to handle
the maximum load on the PowerPost.  If you run individual wires to each
fuse, that fuse should be sized to protect that circuit and its
appropriately sized wire.

If you want to check wire size, download Blue Sea Circuit Wizard for your
mobile device.  http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/  Remember, the wire run
is there and back.  I would consider the distance for your circuits to be
from the PowerPost, through the fuse, through the user (pump, light,
whatever) and then to the ground point.  Your ground point may be another
PowerPost.

In Touche's case, I terminate the individual grounds in the breaker panel
on two buss bars.  The buss bars are connected by a larger wire to a ground
PowerPost.  The larger ground wire is sized to handle the conglomerate load
of the circuits.

Sorry I don't have a circuit diagram.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

  On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 3:21 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis- That makes sense.  I also have MRBF fuses on both batteries, so
> I could presumably do the same.  It would certainly simplify the wiring to
> just connect that heavy battery cable at the panel end to a Powerpost  and
> run from that to the various circuits.  I am never confident about doing
> fuse issues correctly, so this helps a lot.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2020, at 2:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker
> panel.  Less than 3 foot runs each.  The PowerPost is essentially fused
> because there are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts.
> Therefore, whether the battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse
> prior to the battery switch and therefore the PowerPost.  The MRBF fuses on
> the batteries serve Touche's entire electrical system except the bilge
> switch which is supplied directly from a battery and has its own fuse.
>
> Hope that clarifies for you.  If not, just holler.  I plan to be on the
> boat this weekend if you need more info.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply.  The Powerpost Plus looks
>> like a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that.  Do you have
>> that near the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel?  I gather this
>> is not fused, so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and
>> putting it near the panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker.
>> In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to
>> the panel.  But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the
>> same size.  There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the
>> rotary switch directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits
>> would only have the panel breakers and no fuse.  I don’t know what was
>> original and what added later as all that predates my work on the wiring.
>> I plan to map all the circuits this week so I know what comes from each
>> wire.   But that setup does not make sense given what Shawn says about the
>> logic of the fuses near the rotary switch being so you could have a long
>> run of heavy wire to the panel.   Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common,
>> especially in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to
>> carry the load to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss
>> bar which carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring
>> is philosophically analogous.
>>
>> Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a
>> buss bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then
>> connect each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of
>> separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.
>>
>> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection
>> of the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON",
>> the Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a
>> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then
>> supplied individually from the buss bar.
>>
>> Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic
>> might help.
>>
>> You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':
>>
>>
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your con

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Other point is that with Awlgrip is not really repairable. We sprayed our wed 
night boat, a 1979 J 24, with Awlgrip about four years ago and have had to make 
some repairs since. 

 

I hear that Alexseal is much easier to work with if you need to do a repair. At 
some point we are going to get Talisman our 36 redone and would use Alexseal. 
David-I am in Mystic, who did you boat? Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 C&C 36

Mystic, CT

 

 

 

 

From: David Knecht  
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2020 4:28 PM
To: CnC discussion list CnC 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

 

Ditto here.  Just had it done and all estimates were in Joe’s range.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT








On Mar 12, 2020, at 3:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a 35 
foot boat. That would be worth going to NC to get done!

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

  www.dellabarba.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2020 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

 

I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years ago. 
On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do myself, 
we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to Awlgrip or Imron. 
William reports very good results, and uses it for most of the paintwork he 
does. Comes on a pretty wide range of colors, one of which was a bit darker 
than the faded smoke white of Imzadi's hull and might be a close match to the 
original C&C color. One big advantage of the Alexseal paint is that it is about 
half the cost of Awlgrip. My cost for getting the boat prepped and painted 
(white topsides, triple red boot stripe, red cove stripe, red transom) was 
$125/foot - about $4800.

 

The paint has held up very well. Have had some black streaks from black 
rubstrips on an floating dock that washed right off. Had one scratch from a 
bolthead sticking out of a piling, which turned out to be an easy repair using 
some surplus from the original paint. The red transom shows no signs of fading 
yet.

 

Maintenance is to wash every 3 to 6 months with mild soap and water, and to 
wash annually with a product they sell which I presume is similar to Awlcare. 
BTW, the Alexseal website also lists other alternatives to their maintenance 
product - one of which I recall is made by Meguiars and is available from my 
local West Marine.

 

In all honesty, there was one small problem when the boat was painted. When 
they sprayed the red for the boot stripes and cove stripes over the white hull, 
the thin red paint leached under the edge of the green 3M masking tape amd left 
a fuzzy edge. So William had to touch up the white, remask the stripes with 
this fiendishly expensive 3M gold masking tape, and reshoot the red stripes. No 
 problem using the higher quality tape.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Ditto here.  Just had it done and all estimates were in Joe’s range.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 12, 2020, at 3:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a 35 
> foot boat. That would be worth going to NC to get done!
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2020 1:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls
>  
> I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years 
> ago. On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do 
> myself, we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to Awlgrip 
> or Imron. William reports very good results, and uses it for most of the 
> paintwork he does. Comes on a pretty wide range of colors, one of which was a 
> bit darker than the faded smoke white of Imzadi's hull and might be a close 
> match to the original C&C color. One big advantage of the Alexseal paint is 
> that it is about half the cost of Awlgrip. My cost for getting the boat 
> prepped and painted (white topsides, triple red boot stripe, red cove stripe, 
> red transom) was $125/foot - about $4800.
>  
> The paint has held up very well. Have had some black streaks from black 
> rubstrips on an floating dock that washed right off. Had one scratch from a 
> bolthead sticking out of a piling, which turned out to be an easy repair 
> using some surplus from the original paint. The red transom shows no signs of 
> fading yet.
>  
> Maintenance is to wash every 3 to 6 months with mild soap and water, and to 
> wash annually with a product they sell which I presume is similar to Awlcare. 
> BTW, the Alexseal website also lists other alternatives to their maintenance 
> product - one of which I recall is made by Meguiars and is available from my 
> local West Marine.
>  
> In all honesty, there was one small problem when the boat was painted. When 
> they sprayed the red for the boot stripes and cove stripes over the white 
> hull, the thin red paint leached under the edge of the green 3M masking tape 
> amd left a fuzzy edge. So William had to touch up the white, remask the 
> stripes with this fiendishly expensive 3M gold masking tape, and reshoot the 
> red stripes. No  problem using the higher quality tape.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis- That makes sense.  I also have MRBF fuses on both batteries, so I 
could presumably do the same.  It would certainly simplify the wiring to just 
connect that heavy battery cable at the panel end to a Powerpost  and run from 
that to the various circuits.  I am never confident about doing fuse issues 
correctly, so this helps a lot.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 12, 2020, at 2:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker panel.  
> Less than 3 foot runs each.  The PowerPost is essentially fused because there 
> are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts.  Therefore, whether the 
> battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse prior to the battery switch 
> and therefore the PowerPost.  The MRBF fuses on the batteries serve Touche's 
> entire electrical system except the bilge switch which is supplied directly 
> from a battery and has its own fuse.
> 
> Hope that clarifies for you.  If not, just holler.  I plan to be on the boat 
> this weekend if you need more info.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply.  The Powerpost Plus looks 
> like a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that.  Do you have 
> that near the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel?  I gather this is 
> not fused, so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and putting 
> it near the panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker.
> In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to the 
> panel.  But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the same 
> size.  There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the rotary 
> switch directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits would only 
> have the panel breakers and no fuse.  I don’t know what was original and what 
> added later as all that predates my work on the wiring.   I plan to map all 
> the circuits this week so I know what comes from each wire.   But that setup 
> does not make sense given what Shawn says about the logic of the fuses near 
> the rotary switch being so you could have a long run of heavy wire to the 
> panel.   Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Dave, 
>> 
>> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common, 
>> especially in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to 
>> carry the load to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss 
>> bar which carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring is 
>> philosophically analogous.
>> 
>> Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a buss 
>> bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect 
>> each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of separate 
>> wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.
>> 
>> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection of 
>> the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON", the 
>> Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a 
>> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then 
>> supplied individually from the buss bar.
>> 
>> Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic might 
>> help.
>> 
>> You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':
>> 
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A 
>> 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a 35 
foot boat. That would be worth going to NC to get done!


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2020 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years ago. 
On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do myself, 
we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to Awlgrip or Imron. 
William reports very good results, and uses it for most of the paintwork he 
does. Comes on a pretty wide range of colors, one of which was a bit darker 
than the faded smoke white of Imzadi's hull and might be a close match to the 
original C&C color. One big advantage of the Alexseal paint is that it is about 
half the cost of Awlgrip. My cost for getting the boat prepped and painted 
(white topsides, triple red boot stripe, red cove stripe, red transom) was 
$125/foot - about $4800.

The paint has held up very well. Have had some black streaks from black 
rubstrips on an floating dock that washed right off. Had one scratch from a 
bolthead sticking out of a piling, which turned out to be an easy repair using 
some surplus from the original paint. The red transom shows no signs of fading 
yet.

Maintenance is to wash every 3 to 6 months with mild soap and water, and to 
wash annually with a product they sell which I presume is similar to Awlcare. 
BTW, the Alexseal website also lists other alternatives to their maintenance 
product - one of which I recall is made by Meguiars and is available from my 
local West Marine.

In all honesty, there was one small problem when the boat was painted. When 
they sprayed the red for the boot stripes and cove stripes over the white hull, 
the thin red paint leached under the edge of the green 3M masking tape amd left 
a fuzzy edge. So William had to touch up the white, remask the stripes with 
this fiendishly expensive 3M gold masking tape, and reshoot the red stripes. No 
 problem using the higher quality tape.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC
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Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The best tape to use to get a sharp line is green Frog Tape. It's available
at Home Depot.

Alan Bergen

On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 10:50 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years
> ago. On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do
> myself, we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to
> Awlgrip or Imron. William reports very good results, and uses it for most
> of the paintwork he does. Comes on a pretty wide range of colors, one of
> which was a bit darker than the faded smoke white of Imzadi's hull and
> might be a close match to the original C&C color. One big advantage of the
> Alexseal paint is that it is about half the cost of Awlgrip. My cost for
> getting the boat prepped and painted (white topsides, triple red boot
> stripe, red cove stripe, red transom) was $125/foot - about $4800.
>
> The paint has held up very well. Have had some black streaks from black
> rubstrips on an floating dock that washed right off. Had one scratch from a
> bolthead sticking out of a piling, which turned out to be an easy repair
> using some surplus from the original paint. The red transom shows no signs
> of fading yet.
>
> Maintenance is to wash every 3 to 6 months with mild soap and water, and
> to wash annually with a product they sell which I presume is similar to
> Awlcare. BTW, the Alexseal website also lists other alternatives to their
> maintenance product - one of which I recall is made by Meguiars and is
> available from my local West Marine.
>
> In all honesty, there was one small problem when the boat was painted.
> When they sprayed the red for the boot stripes and cove stripes over the
> white hull, the thin red paint leached under the edge of the green 3M
> masking tape amd left a fuzzy edge. So William had to touch up the white,
> remask the stripes with this fiendishly expensive 3M gold masking tape, and
> reshoot the red stripes. No  problem using the higher quality tape.
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Richard Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Mar 6, 2020 2:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Bush
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls
>
> This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls;
> if so, what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the
> work; are there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots,
> etcthanks!
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker
panel.  Less than 3 foot runs each.  The PowerPost is essentially fused
because there are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts.
Therefore, whether the battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse
prior to the battery switch and therefore the PowerPost.  The MRBF fuses on
the batteries serve Touche's entire electrical system except the bilge
switch which is supplied directly from a battery and has its own fuse.

Hope that clarifies for you.  If not, just holler.  I plan to be on the
boat this weekend if you need more info.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply.  The Powerpost Plus looks
> like a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that.  Do you have
> that near the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel?  I gather this
> is not fused, so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and
> putting it near the panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker.
> In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to
> the panel.  But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the
> same size.  There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the
> rotary switch directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits
> would only have the panel breakers and no fuse.  I don’t know what was
> original and what added later as all that predates my work on the wiring.
> I plan to map all the circuits this week so I know what comes from each
> wire.   But that setup does not make sense given what Shawn says about the
> logic of the fuses near the rotary switch being so you could have a long
> run of heavy wire to the panel.   Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common,
> especially in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to
> carry the load to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss
> bar which carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring
> is philosophically analogous.
>
> Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a buss
> bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect
> each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of
> separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.
>
> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection
> of the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON",
> the Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a
> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then
> supplied individually from the buss bar.
>
> Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic
> might help.
>
> You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years ago. On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do myself, we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to Awlgrip or Imron. William reports very good results, and uses it for most of the paintwork he does. Comes on a pretty wide range of colors, one of which was a bit darker than the faded smoke white of Imzadi's hull and might be a close match to the original C&C color. One big advantage of the Alexseal paint is that it is about half the cost of Awlgrip. My cost for getting the boat prepped and painted (white topsides, triple red boot stripe, red cove stripe, red transom) was $125/foot - about $4800.The paint has held up very well. Have had some black streaks from black rubstrips on an floating dock that washed right off. Had one scratch from a bolthead sticking out of a piling, which turned out to be an easy repair using some surplus from the original paint. The red transom shows no signs of fading yet.Maintenance is to wash every 3 to 6 months with mild soap and water, and to wash annually with a product they sell which I presume is similar to Awlcare. BTW, the Alexseal website also lists other alternatives to their maintenance product - one of which I recall is made by Meguiars and is available from my local West Marine.In all honesty, there was one small problem when the boat was painted. When they sprayed the red for the boot stripes and cove stripes over the white hull, the thin red paint leached under the edge of the green 3M masking tape amd left a fuzzy edge. So William had to touch up the white, remask the stripes with this fiendishly expensive 3M gold masking tape, and reshoot the red stripes. No  problem using the higher quality tape.Rick BrassWashington, NC-Original Message-
From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Mar 6, 2020 2:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls



 This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls; if so, what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the work; are there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots, etcthanks!


 



Richard

 

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;





Richard N. Bush Law Offices 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255


 



___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply.  The Powerpost Plus looks like 
a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that.  Do you have that near 
the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel?  I gather this is not fused, 
so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and putting it near the 
panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker.
In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to the 
panel.  But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the same size. 
 There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the rotary switch 
directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits would only have the 
panel breakers and no fuse.  I don’t know what was original and what added 
later as all that predates my work on the wiring.   I plan to map all the 
circuits this week so I know what comes from each wire.   But that setup does 
not make sense given what Shawn says about the logic of the fuses near the 
rotary switch being so you could have a long run of heavy wire to the panel.   
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave, 
> 
> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common, especially 
> in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to carry the load 
> to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss bar which 
> carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring is 
> philosophically analogous.
> 
> Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a buss 
> bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect 
> each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of separate 
> wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.
> 
> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection of 
> the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON", the 
> Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a 
> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then supplied 
> individually from the buss bar.
> 
> Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic might 
> help.
> 
> You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I understand the wiring in general and how the circuit works.  I am not sure 
> what the logic is to have created the double crimp tabs in order to bridge 
> power from one fuse to the other.  I get that each fuse will function for the 
> circuit that goes to the panel.  What I am unclear on is 
> #1, why have a fuse before a circuit breaker on the panel 
> #2- is this the “right” way to accomplish safe wiring.  I could instead bring 
> separate wires off the + from the rotary switch to each fuse rather than the 
> bridging setup if I replace the current fuse holders.  
>   
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope - sheaves!

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Yes I got sheaves from Zepherworks, custom sizes and they work flawlessly.

Replaced 1 main, 2 jib halyards with XLS. 

A great upgrade and no work frayed wire punctures in any body parts.

 

John

Landfall 38 – ECHOES

 

 

From: ALAN BERGEN [mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu] 
Sent: March-12-20 1:17 AM
To: C&C
Subject: Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope - sheaves!

 

I, too, used sheaves from Zephyrwerks.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 10:16 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 wrote:

https://www.zephyrwerks.com/mastheadsheaves.html 

 

___

 

 

On Mar 11, 2020, at 8:46 11AM, Sam Salter via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I went all rope (main and Genoa) around 2008 on the original (1977) aluminum 
sheaves. Had no problems for about 5 years. I rebuilt the masthead sheave box 
in about 2013 with custom delrin  sheaves from the guy in Port Townsend (can’t 
remember the name of the company)



Sam Salter

C&C 26  Liquorice 

Ghost Lake  Alberta 

 

On Mar 11, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



My wire to rope jib halyard dates back to the 1980s and has some nasty meat 
hooks. I have several all rope halyards that were given to me and have sat 
inside my shed for years. I used the old wire halyard to pull one through and 
my original thought was to get another one made. This does raise an obvious 
question – why not just use the rope?

My fear is that since the sail usually only comes down once a year if that, the 
rope will get chewed through on the masthead shiv. Is this an issue?

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

 

 www.dellabarba.com

 

 

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to send contribution --

 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

One reason to use a fuse in addition to a breaker is to protect smaller
gauge wire. In many panels (like mine) breakers are 15A, which would
require all wire runs to be 10-12ga (maybe 8ga on larger boats for long
runs) in order to supply 15A without wire damage. Of course, C&C didn't use
this size wire for most runs, so to protect them, a small fuse sized for
the intended load and wire gauge should be used. Otherwise, a short in the
circuit could cause wire damage before a 15A breaker trips.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:01 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common,
> especially in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to
> carry the load to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss
> bar which carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring
> is philosophically analogous.
>
> Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a buss
> bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect
> each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of
> separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.
>
> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection
> of the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON",
> the Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a
> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then
> supplied individually from the buss bar.
>
> Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic
> might help.
>
> You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I understand the wiring in general and how the circuit works.  I am not
>> sure what the logic is to have created the double crimp tabs in order to
>> bridge power from one fuse to the other.  I get that each fuse will
>> function for the circuit that goes to the panel.  What I am unclear on is
>> #1, why have a fuse before a circuit breaker on the panel
>> #2- is this the “right” way to accomplish safe wiring.  I could instead
>> bring separate wires off the + from the rotary switch to each fuse rather
>> than the bridging setup if I replace the current fuse holders.
>>
>> Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box Material - Looking for Feedback on "Duramax Ultra"

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

No idea what is in mine, but just tightened it yesterday after noticing
about 1 drip every 6-10 seconds while sitting. There was a lot of salt
around it, so it's probably been loose for a while, and the nice clean
bilge has now made it noticeable. Sliding the shaft back to remove
transmission may have also caused it to leak. Nut was not even finger
tight, so I made it lightly snug, which seemed to have little difference on
the friction when turning shaft by hand, but drips stopped. Will have to
check again when I get engine back together, but hopefully I won't need to
replace it.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 10:00 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Pete,
>
> I’ve used it — good stuff. I’ve never packed the box myself, but the
> mechanics I’ve used use that.
>
> There’s no way to determine the life span of the material — too many
> factors like the amount of engine use, RPMs, etc. You should make it a
> habit to check for drips on a regular basis.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 11, 2020, at 12:46 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
> I need to address a leaking stuffing box on my 30-2.
> Recently, I found this product – Duramax Ultra.
>
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/product-resources/johnson-duramax/duramaxultra-xhighperformancecompressionpacking-pdf
>
> The brochure sounds like what I need.  Anyone using this stuff?  If so,
> can you share your experience?  How long can you go before renewing the
> packing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete W.
>
> Siren Song
> 91 C&C30-2
> Deltaville, Va.
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>
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