Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It’s a 12oz. spray can. Go to an auto shop.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 So send us a pic or link - searching for cold in a covid year doesn’t work!



On May 20, 2020, at 4:28 29PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold helps. 
There’s a spray COLD blaster.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two 
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB 
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS bolts, 
steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so after 
applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much trouble, but I 
didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted my plan of 
removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and bolts with tap & 
die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on many 
very stuck fasteners over the years.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All,

Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.

Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
from that standpoint.

Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left for a 
day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be cutting and 
replacing shaft and coupler :(.

Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...

Wanna go sailing :).


/John

On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman 
mailto:colt...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who like 
a belt and suspenders approach.

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

John,

Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go then 
the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft out ... 
every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating oil. Two 
days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less then.

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a mechanic 
doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been allowed to 
visit the boat this spring.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless .

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -

Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

So send us a pic or link - searching for cold in a covid year doesn’t work!   



> On May 20, 2020, at 4:28 29PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold 
> helps. There’s a spray COLD blaster.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two 
>> additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB 
>> Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS 
>> bolts, steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so 
>> after applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much 
>> trouble, but I didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted 
>> my plan of removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and bolts 
>> with tap & die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
>> PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on 
>> many very stuck fasteners over the years.
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.
>> 
>> Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
>> from that standpoint.
>> 
>> Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
>> pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
>> taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left 
>> for a day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be 
>> cutting and replacing shaft and coupler :(.
>> 
>> Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...
>> 
>> Wanna go sailing :). 
>> 
>> 
>> /John
>> 
>>> On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who 
>>> like a belt and suspenders approach.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Bill Coleman
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>>> ] On Behalf Of Paul Fountain via 
>>> CnC-List
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> John,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
>>> aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go 
>>> then the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the 
>>> shaft out ... every time the set screw hole got to the top we added 
>>> penetrating oil. Two days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in 
>>> a drip less then.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
>>> replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a 
>>> mechanic doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been 
>>> allowed to visit the boat this spring.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Where abouts are you in Ontario?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Paul Fountain
>>> Perception II
>>> 1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
>>> Port Credit Yacht Club
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List >> > on behalf of John Christopher via 
>>> CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
>>> To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Cc: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
>>> Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> All
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
>>> could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on 
>>> shaft , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from 
>>> boat to install the dripless . 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
>>> impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT 
>>> ALL. I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use 
>>> gas torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get 
>>> ruined.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
>>> Shaft, steel cou

Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold helps. 
There’s a spray COLD blaster.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
wrote:


Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two 
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB 
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS bolts, 
steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so after 
applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much trouble, but I 
didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted my plan of 
removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and bolts with tap & 
die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on many 
very stuck fasteners over the years.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All,

Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.

Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
from that standpoint.

Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left for a 
day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be cutting and 
replacing shaft and coupler :(.

Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...

Wanna go sailing :).


/John

On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman 
mailto:colt...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who like 
a belt and suspenders approach.

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

John,

Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go then 
the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft out ... 
every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating oil. Two 
days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less then.

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a mechanic 
doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been allowed to 
visit the boat this spring.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?


Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C&C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless .

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS
bolts, steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so
after applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much
trouble, but I didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted
my plan of removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and
bolts with tap & die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on
many very stuck fasteners over the years.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.
>
> Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks
> good from that standpoint.
>
> Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with
> pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry,
> taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left
> for a day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be
> cutting and replacing shaft and coupler :(.
>
> Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...
>
> Wanna go sailing :).
>
>
> /John
>
> On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who
> like a belt and suspenders approach.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Paul
> Fountain via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Paul Fountain; John Christopher
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>
>
>
> John,
>
>
>
> Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket
> aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go
> then the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the
> shaft out ... every time the set screw hole got to the top we added
> penetrating oil. Two days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in
> a drip less then.
>
>
>
> Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and
> replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.
>
>
>
> This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a
> mechanic doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been
> allowed to visit the boat this spring.
>
>
>
> Where abouts are you in Ontario?
>
>
>
> *Paul Fountain*
>
> *Perception II*
>
> *1985 C&C 33-II k/cb*
>
> *Port Credit Yacht Club*
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of John
> Christopher via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC 
> *Cc:* John Christopher 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>
>
>
> All
>
>
>
> I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.
>
>
>
> got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but
> could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on
> shaft , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from
> boat to install the dripless .
>
>
>
> I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an
> impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT
> ALL. I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use
> gas torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get
> ruined.
>
>
>
> Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.
>
>
>
> Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals
> (SS Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).
>
>
>
> *Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am
> missing?*
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 1983 Landfall 38, #155
>
> Ontario Canada
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Had a diesel fuel tank leak on a delivery from NC to Charleston for CRW--crew 
patched it with some kind of black epoxy to stop it.
When back in NC, took the old tank to a shop that specialized in building 
custom barbeque grills and they duplicated it for $460 in a little thinner than 
original aluminum. Fortunately, I was able to remove the tank without cutting 
any wood or fiberglass!
Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 36XL/kcbWater Phantom


-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Sent: Wed, May 20, 2020 1:50 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

  The aluminum fuel tank on my boat from 1989 developed a small leak underneath 
while on the hard.  A pin hole opened up after I had painted the bilge and the 
reddish fuel trickled out from under the tank ontop the white paint.  I never 
located the offending pinhole as I found many areas of corrosion on the tank 
bottom.  I looked at all the possible repairs and thought how new leaks might 
develop at the most inopportune time at sea.  I couldn't think of an 
environmentally responsible way to deal with fuel in the bilge while at sea and 
no way to stop twenty gallons of diesel from winding up in the bilge if I was 
away from the boat when a leak occured.    
   I looked into buying a new and better tank.  Moeller plastic tanks come in a 
thousand shapes and sizes and cost under $400.  I ordered the new tank and all 
new hoses, clamps, valves, & sender.   
http://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/
   
   Chuck   
        
 On May 20, 2020 at 1:28 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote: 
 
   Yep.  Years ago I did the same with a fuel tank on an old motorcycle that 
had been idled for a while.  I removed the tank, threw in a handful of gravel, 
shook it around to remove rust, etc.  Flushed it, poured in some fuel tank 
repair epoxy, swirled it all around to coat the tank and re-installed it.  
Worked well.  
   There are several options for tank repair.   
     -- 
   Dennis C.  Touche' 35-1 #83   Mandeville, LA  
   On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 12:20 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
  
 Hi Dennis,   
   One of our boat neighbors had a similar problem on a powerboat.  He drained 
all the fuel, cut multiple access ports in the top so he could get around any 
baffles and coated the bottom and 3" up the side with an epoxy specially 
designed to withstand fuel.  He then made caps for the access ports and screwed 
them down.  It turns out that this kind of solution is evidently pretty common. 
  
   Food for thought, 
   
   Bruce Whitmore
  1994 C&C 37/40+   "Astralis"   Madeira Beach, FL
  (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

   
 On Wednesday, May 20, 2020, 12:39:31 PM EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:   
   
 While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.  Might 
want to explore that option.  
   Dennis C.   
   On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
  
  Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is 
sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum tank, 
but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had though I 
was safe from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe engine and 
a retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least that is what 
Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other optionsand am open to 
ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...  Spencer Johnson    84 LF38 
"Alegria" #165   Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI  
___ 
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --    https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
 
  
  
 -- 
   Dennis C.  Touche' 35-1 #83   Mandeville, LA
___ 
 
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
   ___ 
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --    https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
 
  
  
 -- 
   Dennis C.  Touche' 35-1 #83   Mandeville, LA
___ 
 
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
 
  
   ___

Thanks eve

Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

All,

Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.

Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
from that standpoint.

Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left for a 
day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be cutting and 
replacing shaft and coupler :(.

Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...

Wanna go sailing :). 


/John

> On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> 
> Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who 
> like a belt and suspenders approach.
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
> Fountain via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>  
> John,
>  
> Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
> aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go 
> then the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft 
> out ... every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating 
> oil. Two days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less 
> then.
>  
> Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
> replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.
>  
> This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a 
> mechanic doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been 
> allowed to visit the boat this spring.
>  
> Where abouts are you in Ontario?
>  
> Paul Fountain
> Perception II
> 1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
> Port Credit Yacht Club
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Christopher 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
> To: CNC CNC 
> Cc: John Christopher 
> Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>  
> All
>  
> I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.
>  
> got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
> could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft 
> , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
> install the dripless . 
>  
> I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
> impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. 
> I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas 
> torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.
>  
> Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.
>  
> Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
> Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).
>  
> Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
> missing?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> John
>  
> 1983 Landfall 38, #155
> Ontario Canada
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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I ordered a new forestay for my 33-2 this season at Klacko Spars in Oakville 
Ontario. The old one had a kink at the top, probably from a haylard wrap, not 
enough length to rehead so i decided to replace the whole thing.

The cost of the new forestay (# 8 rod) including the nose piece/fitting for the 
Harken furler is: 1 195 cnd$. + taxes and shipping

I think it is a pretty good price to replace the forestay. i will spend more 
time inspecting the rods but it seemed fine.

I am currently rebuildong the mast step so the timing was right for a rig refit 
while the mast is down. I am replacing many rig/deck hardware parts, have order 
new sheaves and pins from Zephyrwerks, hanving the spreader repainted, wires 
and VHF antenna replaced, some running rigging upgrades, etc... It adds up $$$

May is an expensive month every year, but especially this year.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


De : CnC-List  de la part de Doug Mountjoy via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 20 mai 2020 12:07
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc : Doug Mountjoy 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

Joe,
2 years ago I had my rod rigging replaced plus a bunch of other repairs done to 
my mast and boom. Total cost was $18k. Mast was pulled, inspected, rewired, new 
rods, new furler on for stay, new staysail stay, new goose neck. I added a 
second main halyard block. Back stay had insolators for SSB antenna, and mast 
and boom were repainted.
Port Townsend Rigging did most of the work, not the cheapest place around on 
Puget Sound.

On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 8:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

What would it cost to have a C&C with rod rigging inspected? Reheaded? Rod 
replaced?

It makes one think about buying a 70s-80s-90s era boat and having an immediate 
large expense.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Michael Brannon via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brannon mailto:ff1...@aol.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection



James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out and 
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around 
them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion 
line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do the dye 
penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging or 
re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
(1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some things 
I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7
 .



We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am a 
professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.



I hope that this helps.





Mike Brannon

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA









On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at the 
same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the broader 
C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience.

I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a layperson 
with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company up here….I’d 
love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the existing.

James Bibb

34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly





___

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___

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--
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C&C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 38 year old aluminum tank had pinholes in the bottom where it sat on a 
plywood platform. Replaced with plastic.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ssjohnson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 12:23 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohnson 
Subject: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is sitting 
in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum tank, but the 
boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe 
from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe engine and a 
retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least that is what 
Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other optionsand am open to 
ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...

Spencer Johnson 

84 LF38 "Alegria" #165

Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I had my yard replace my primary fuel tank several years ago.  Neither the 
engine nor the quadrant had to be removed.  The yard cut out the panel just 
ahead of the tank, removed the panel on the starboard side of the engine, 
removed the water heater and cut out a piece of the bulkhead just aft of the 
water heater.  They were able to turn the tank in its side and removed it 
through the cutout panel aft of the water heater.  (It was pretty easy for me—I 
just had to pay the yard bill!)

One must note that the original tank was only 0.060 inches thick!  My 
replacement tank is 1/4” thick—4 times thicker. It cost very little extra to 
get the much thicker tank—its a no-brainer to do this! I think I have some pics 
that I took of the whole operation if anyone wants them...

Bob

> On May 20, 2020, at 12:23 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is 
> sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum 
> tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had 
> though I was safe from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe 
> engine and a retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least 
> that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other 
> optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
> Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
(Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the ICW 
in between)
411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I just had my 44-year old tank pressure tested to the original manufacturer’s 
specs.  FYI, the industry standard at the time (stamped on the tank) was 3 psi.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ssjohnson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 3:11 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohnson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Thanks for all the options...knowing them is half the battle.  I checked with 
the Yard 

... they suggested removing all fuel and trying a pressure test at no more than 
7psi.  Off to get half a dozen 5 gallon Jerry cans :-(

Spencer Johnson

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the options...knowing them is half the battle.  I checked with 
the Yard ... they suggested removing all fuel and trying a pressure test at no 
more than 7psi.  Off to get half a dozen 5 gallon Jerry cans :-(Spencer Johnson___

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Joe,

Call Jay at Annapolis Rigging.  He did mine as part of an insurance claim.  I 
don’t recall the cost, but was happy with the service.  They are located at 
Janine Boat Yard.

Neil
1982 C&C 32 FoxFire

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:43:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection


What would it cost to have a C&C with rod rigging inspected? Reheaded? Rod 
replaced?

It makes one think about buying a 70s-80s-90s era boat and having an immediate 
large expense.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brannon via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brannon 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection



James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out and 
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around 
them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion 
line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do the dye 
penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging or 
re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
(1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some things 
I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7
 .



We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am a 
professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.



I hope that this helps.





Mike Brannon

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA









On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at the 
same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the broader 
C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience.

I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a layperson 
with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company up here….I’d 
love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the existing.

James Bibb

34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly





___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

The aluminum fuel tank on my boat from 1989 developed a small leak underneath 
while on the hard.  A pin hole opened up after I had painted the bilge and the 
reddish fuel trickled out from under the tank ontop the white paint.  I never 
located the offending pinhole as I found many areas of corrosion on the tank 
bottom.  I looked at all the possible repairs and thought how new leaks might 
develop at the most inopportune time at sea.  I couldn't think of an 
environmentally responsible way to deal with fuel in the bilge while at sea and 
no way to stop twenty gallons of diesel from winding up in the bilge if I was 
away from the boat when a leak occured. 

I looked into buying a new and better tank.  Moeller plastic tanks come in a 
thousand shapes and sizes and cost under $400.  I ordered the new tank and all 
new hoses, clamps, valves, & sender.   
http://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/

Chuck



> On May 20, 2020 at 1:28 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Yep.  Years ago I did the same with a fuel tank on an old motorcycle that 
> had been idled for a while.  I removed the tank, threw in a handful of 
> gravel, shook it around to remove rust, etc.  Flushed it, poured in some fuel 
> tank repair epoxy, swirled it all around to coat the tank and re-installed 
> it.  Worked well.
> 
> There are several options for tank repair.
> 
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 12:20 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Hi Dennis,
> > 
> > One of our boat neighbors had a similar problem on a powerboat.  He 
> > drained all the fuel, cut multiple access ports in the top so he could get 
> > around any baffles and coated the bottom and 3" up the side with an epoxy 
> > specially designed to withstand fuel.  He then made caps for the access 
> > ports and screwed them down.  It turns out that this kind of solution is 
> > evidently pretty common.
> > 
> > Food for thought,
> > 
> > Bruce Whitmore
> > 1994 C&C 37/40+
> > "Astralis"
> > Madeira Beach, FL
> > (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> > bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> > 
> > 
> > On Wednesday, May 20, 2020, 12:39:31 PM EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> > < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.  
> > Might want to explore that option.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > 
> > On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   
> > It looks like the tank is sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It 
> > is the original aluminum tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - 
> > Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe from corrosion.  Access to the 
> > tank is very limitedthe engine and a retaining stringer would probably 
> > need to be cut outat least that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.  I 
> > cannot think of other optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.  Cannot 
> > launch it as is...
> > > Spencer Johnson 
> > > 84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
> > > Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > --
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


___

Thanks 

Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I used to race on a Tripp 33 that experienced a diesel fuel bladder leak that 
went undetected for quite some time.  As Francois alluded to, the diesel worked 
its way through the inner skin and into the core.  The boat was totaled.  As I 
recall someone bought it for about $5K.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

 

???

I worked on a big motoryacht once and the fuel tanks were molded into the hull. 
The bottom of the fuel tank was the bottom of the boat. The access plate on top 
of it leaked and it was a biatch and half to seal it up. The leaking diesel had 
left a waxy coating on the fiberglass that NOTHING would stick to.

Joe

Coquina

ps - speaking of a biatch, ever try and pull up to the fuel dock with a 25 knot 
crosswind, a boat 3 stories tall that draws 4 feet, and rudders the size of a 
baking sheet? THAT was interesting!

On 5/20/2020 1:13 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,  

 I hope you mopped the diesel up and cleaned with soap as much as you could as 
quickly as possible.  I've read about horror stories of diesel eating the 
gelcoat / getting into the substrate and causing much worse damage... 

 

-Francois Rivard

1990 34+ "Take Five"

Lake Lanier, GA





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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

???

I worked on a big motoryacht once and the fuel tanks were molded into 
the hull. The bottom of the fuel tank was the bottom of the boat. The 
access plate on top of it leaked and it was a biatch and half to seal it 
up. The leaking diesel had left a waxy coating on the fiberglass that 
NOTHING would stick to.


Joe

Coquina

ps - speaking of a biatch, ever try and pull up to the fuel dock with a 
25 knot crosswind, a boat 3 stories tall that draws 4 feet, and rudders 
the size of a baking sheet? THAT was interesting!


On 5/20/2020 1:13 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,
 I hope you mopped the diesel up and cleaned with soap as much as you 
could as quickly as possible.  I've read about horror stories of 
diesel eating the gelcoat / getting into the substrate and causing 
much worse damage...


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep.  Years ago I did the same with a fuel tank on an old motorcycle
that had been idled for a while.  I removed the tank, threw in a handful of
gravel, shook it around to remove rust, etc.  Flushed it, poured in some
fuel tank repair epoxy, swirled it all around to coat the tank and
re-installed it.  Worked well.

There are several options for tank repair.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 12:20 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
>
> One of our boat neighbors had a similar problem on a powerboat.  He
> drained all the fuel, cut multiple access ports in the top so he could get
> around any baffles and coated the bottom and 3" up the side with an epoxy
> specially designed to withstand fuel.  He then made caps for the access
> ports and screwed them down.  It turns out that this kind of solution is
> evidently pretty common.
>
> Food for thought,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020, 12:39:31 PM EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.  Might
> want to explore that option.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is
> sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum
> tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had
> though I was safe from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very
> limitedthe engine and a retaining stringer would probably need to be
> cut outat least that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think
> of other optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as
> is...
> Spencer Johnson
> 84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
> Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

There are two types of Landfall 38s.  Those who have had the aluminum fuel tank 
replaced, and those who need the aluminum fuel tank replaced.   The original 
fuel tanks were set in polyurethane foam, which is the reason they rusted out 
quickly (Not a good idea on C&C part).   

I was fortunate in that a previous owner replaced the fuel tank and in doing so 
encased the new tank in fiberglass.   But when I went through my refit, I 
removed, emptied, cleaned, and thoroughly inspected the inside.You only 
need to cut a V-notch out of the center of the retaining stringer to get the 
tank out. It will be a tight squeeze, and you will need to remove many thing: 
radial drive, steering idlers(which may look good until you pull them), 
alternator, … I added a G10 L-bracket to sure-up the stringer, similar to 
added bracket on Stella Blue.  I was also inspired to Wally to improve the 
limber holes. 

Wally site was a great resource.  It is no longer online, but I have a copy and 
can send you pdfs of the tank work if you want.

Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 20, 2020, at 12:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 11:23:12 -0500
> From: ssjohnson mailto:ssjohn...@aol.com>>
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement
> Message-ID:
><mailto:mailman.604.1589992659.29452.cnc-list_cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.? ?It looks like the tank is 
> sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.? ?It is the original aluminum 
> tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had 
> though I was safe from corrosion.? Access to the tank is very limitedthe 
> engine and a retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least 
> that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.? I cannot think of other 
> optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.? Cannot launch it as 
> is...Spencer Johnson?84 LF38 "Alegria" #165Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> -- next part --
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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
One of our boat neighbors had a similar problem on a powerboat.  He drained all 
the fuel, cut multiple access ports in the top so he could get around any 
baffles and coated the bottom and 3" up the side with an epoxy specially 
designed to withstand fuel.  He then made caps for the access ports and screwed 
them down.  It turns out that this kind of solution is evidently pretty common.
Food for thought,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020, 12:39:31 PM EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.  Might want 
to explore that option.
Dennis C.
On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is sitting 
in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum tank, but the 
boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe 
from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe engine and a 
retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least that is what 
Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other optionsand am open to 
ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...Spencer Johnson 84 LF38 "Alegria" 
#165Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI___

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-- 
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi,
 I hope you mopped the diesel up and cleaned with soap as much as you could
as quickly as possible.  I've read about horror stories of diesel eating
the gelcoat / getting into the substrate and causing much worse damage...

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I plumbed in an outboard tank when I had to go someplace and my fuel 
tank was home getting cleaned out ;)


Joe

On 5/20/2020 12:38 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.  
Might want to explore that option.


Dennis C.

On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the
tank is sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the
original aluminum tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water
- Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe from corrosion. 
Access to the tank is very limitedthe engine and a retaining
stringer would probably need to be cut outat least that is
what Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other
optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as
is...
Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
___

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.  Might
want to explore that option.

Dennis C.

On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is
> sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum
> tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had
> though I was safe from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very
> limitedthe engine and a retaining stringer would probably need to be
> cut outat least that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think
> of other optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as
> is...
> Spencer Johnson
> 84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
> Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Grand Banks have iron fuel tanks that rust through and were installed 
prior to the engines and the deck. The usual routine with them is to cut 
them apart and remove the pieces and replace them with smaller tanks 
that fit through the hatches. My friend's boat has a leaking gas tank 
glassed in place that is never coming out. We sucked the fuel out and 
installed another tank elsewhere. I am suddenly grateful that taking my 
fuel tank out is a 15 minute job. BTW - foamed in Aluminum corrodes, 
fresh or salt.


Joe

Coquina C&C 35 MK I


On 5/20/2020 12:23 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List wrote:
Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is 
sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original 
aluminum tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake 
Michigan - so I had though I was safe from corrosion.  Access to the 
tank is very limitedthe engine and a retaining stringer would 
probably need to be cut outat least that is what Wally on Stella 
Blue did.  I cannot think of other optionsand am open to 
ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...

Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI

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Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is sitting 
in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum tank, but the 
boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe 
from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe engine and a 
retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least that is what 
Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other optionsand am open to 
ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...Spencer Johnson 84 LF38 "Alegria" 
#165Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI___

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike!  Love this group!  

> On May 20, 2020, at 8:09 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Michael.  The photos are a great help for what to look for.
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md
>> On May 20, 2020 at 11:24 AM Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>>  wrote: 
>> 
>> James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out 
>> and purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas 
>> around them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a 
>> corrosion line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do 
>> the dye penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging 
>> or re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine 
>> sandpaper (1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link 
>> to some things I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7 
>>  .
>> 
>> We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
>> actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am 
>> a professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.   
>> 
>> I hope that this helps.
>> 
>> 
>> Mike Brannon 
>> Virginia Lee 93295
>> 1978 C&C 36 CB
>> Virginia Beach, VA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List < 
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>>> 
>>> Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
>>> repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at 
>>> the same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the 
>>> broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 
>>> 
>>> I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have 
>>> it inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a 
>>> layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company 
>>> up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the 
>>> existing.   
>>> 
>>> James Bibb 
>>> 
>>> 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___ 
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>>  
>>> 
>> 
>> ___ 
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Thanks Michael.  The photos are a great help for what to look for.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md

> On May 20, 2020 at 11:24 AM Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going 
> out and purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas 
> around them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a 
> corrosion line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do 
> the dye penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging 
> or re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
> (1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some 
> things I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7 .
> 
> We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of 
> problems actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with 
> wire.  I am a professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance 
> Rigging.  
> 
> I hope that this helps.
> 
> 
> Mike Brannon 
> Virginia Lee 93295
> 1978 C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > > On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations 
> > regarding repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the 
> > exercise at the same time….realized some of this conversation should be 
> > shared with the broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for 
> > the experience.
> > 
> > I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning 
> > to have it inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done 
> > by a layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging 
> > company up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left 
> > with the existing.  
> > 
> > James Bibb
> > 
> > 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Joe,
2 years ago I had my rod rigging replaced plus a bunch of other repairs
done to my mast and boom. Total cost was $18k. Mast was pulled, inspected,
rewired, new rods, new furler on for stay, new staysail stay, new goose
neck. I added a second main halyard block. Back stay had insolators for SSB
antenna, and mast and boom were repainted.
Port Townsend Rigging did most of the work, not the cheapest place around
on Puget Sound.

On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 8:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What would it cost to have a C&C with rod rigging inspected? Reheaded? Rod
> replaced?
>
> It makes one think about buying a 70s-80s-90s era boat and having an
> immediate large expense.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I*
>
> *www.dellabarba.com *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Brannon via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:25 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Michael Brannon 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection
>
>
>
> James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out
> and purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas
> around them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a
> corrosion line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can
> do the dye penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the
> rigging or re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine
> sandpaper (1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link
> to some things I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7
> 
> .
>
>
>
> We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of
> problems actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with
> wire.  I am a professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance
> Rigging.
>
>
>
> I hope that this helps.
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike Brannon
>
> Virginia Lee 93295
>
> 1978 C&C 36 CB
>
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations
> regarding repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the
> exercise at the same time….realized some of this conversation should be
> shared with the broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for
> the experience.
>
> I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have
> it inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a
> layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company
> up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the
> existing.
>
> James Bibb
>
> 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C&C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

What would it cost to have a C&C with rod rigging inspected? Reheaded? Rod 
replaced?
It makes one think about buying a 70s-80s-90s era boat and having an immediate 
large expense.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brannon via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brannon 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out and 
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around 
them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion 
line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do the dye 
penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging or 
re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
(1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some things 
I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7
 .

We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am a 
professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.

I hope that this helps.


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA





On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at the 
same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the broader 
C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience.

I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a layperson 
with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company up here….I’d 
love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the existing.

James Bibb

34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly





___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out and 
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around 
them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion 
line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do the dye 
penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging or 
re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
(1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some things 
I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7 .

We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am a 
professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.  

I hope that this helps.


Mike Brannon 
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
> repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at 
> the same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the 
> broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 
> 
> I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
> inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a 
> layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company 
> up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the 
> existing.  
> 
> James Bibb
> 
> 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who
like a belt and suspenders approach.

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

 

John,

 

Done this twice, and it's getting done now, the first time, used a socket
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go
then the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft
out ... every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating
oil. Two days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less
then.

 

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

 

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a
mechanic doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been
allowed to visit the boat this spring. 

 

Where abouts are you in Ontario?

 

Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C&C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Christopher
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: John Christopher 
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal 

 

All

 

I'm trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

 

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on
shaft , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from
boat to install the dripless . 

 

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL.
I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas
torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

 

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

 

Boat is freshwater all it's life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

 

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am
missing?

 

Thanks,

 

John

 

1983 Landfall 38, #155

Ontario Canada

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

There's not enough room to use a puller in most boats.  I can't even visualize 
how that would work in the boats I've had.Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/19/20  9:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Len Mitchell 
 Cc: John Christopher , CNC List 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal Wouldn’t 
a pulled work just the same?/JohnOn May 19, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Len Mitchell 
 wrote:John, I had to use a socket on the end of the 
prop shaft and pressed the coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same 
size. Some folks have actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can 
press it off quite easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing 
if you are going that far! Len MitchellCrazy Legs 1989 37+Midland On.Sent from 
my iPad___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is exactly the process I used on our 27 MKIII to pull the prop shaft and 
replace the cutlass bearing.  Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/19/20  8:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC List 
 Cc: Len Mitchell , 
phygi...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal John, I had to use 
a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the coupling off using longer 
bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have actually cut theirs but with 
2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite easily if there is enough room. 
Check your cutlass bearing if you are going that far! Len MitchellCrazy Legs 
1989 37+Midland On.Sent from my 
iPad___Thanks everyone for 
supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly 
appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray