Stus-List Testing Wood screws into epoxy plugs and plastic anchors

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi guys,
Summary of my plastic anchor test:
Plastic masonry anchors can be installed into epoxy plugs to accept wood 
screws, and they hold the screw very well. 
Screws driven into pilot holes in epoxy plugs (Dennis C recommendation) are 
much stronger.The plastic anchors add great shear strength and cushion 
impacts but can slip out of the smooth hole under 15# to 20# of tensil force.   
Now since I did this to find a way to attach my sea hood to the cabin top, 
plastic anchors may offer a good method as it allows the sea hood to expand 
separately from the cabin structure plus they cushion the impact of crew 
walking on the hood.  My plastic anchors are meant for #10 screws, so I'll have 
to try #10s instead of #8s.

Test method:
I made my test panel from a small scrap piece of balsa cored deck and drilled 
five 3/4" diameter holes and one 1/2" hole into it, primed those with neat 
epoxy 105/206 and then added 404 filler to four holes and THIXO flexible epoxy 
to the last two holes. After they cured I sanded the epoxy plugs flush to the 
surface and drilled 7/32" and 1/8" pilot holes into plugs 1 and 2.  Plugs 3 and 
4 got drilled for plastic anchors.  Plug 5 is Thixo and got drilled for plastic 
anchor while Plug 6, a 1/2" Thixo plug got a small pilot hole, 7/32".  I drove 
in the #8 wood screws using a drill driver with the clutch set very low at 3.  
I left the heads high enough to get a blue pry bar under each one to test for 
holding strength.  

Correctly sizing the pilot hole for the chosen screw is critical.  I tried 
three size drills based on internet advice and found they all work but 1/8" 
seemed best fit for my brand new #8 wood screws.   

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19kVrTvC49DPhH05pj9JHUmz2iW_uqsEg/view?usp=sharing

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md___

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The mast collar on Imzadi has been in place for 44 years. The only 
modifications/work done on it has been to drill 4 #10 size holes near the 
periphery so rain water can leak out onto the deck and no longer gets trapped 
inside the raised part of the collar.

I can't imagine any reason you would ever want to remove a mast collar.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matt Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

As I have stated previously, you must be certain that you never want to remove 
it, for any reason, before using 5200.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 4:12 PM
To: David Risch 
Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

Understood, we’re talking about a mast collar.  Puts the check mark in the 5200 
column.  Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> 5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same thing 
> without the PIA adhesive.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
> To: Fred Hazzard 
> Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy
> 
> 3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
> amongst other permanent assembly applications.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. 
>> I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a 
>> variety flexible sealants with no success.
>> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I 
>> went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>> 
>> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
>> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
>> flexible. 
>> 
>> I welcome your ideas. 
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 

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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joe;

You might want to keep shopping for the Acrylic. When I rebuilt the 27x27
A foredeck hatch on Imzadi before the trip to Bermuda in 2017, I bought
the lens for my hatch from a local glass shop that does commercial windows.
They used the old lens as a template and drilled the  holes in the corners
for retaining screws and milled out the recesses and holes for the hatch
dogs. And the total cost was something like $75-80. Though they did have a
partial sheet of 1/2" material in inventory so they did not need to order a
new, complete sheet of the stuff. 

The 1/2" seal for the hatch  came from Lowes, along with the 3M trim
adhesive to install it, some rubber and nylon washers to seal the hatch
dogs, and the 3M stuff to remove the silicone the PO had used to seal the
lens. The most expensive thing in the project was the Sika295 and primer to
glue the lens into the old frame after it had been cleaned up.

Fussy work, but very doable and fairly inexpensive compared to the cost of a
new hatch - particularly a new A hatch.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List economics of hatches

Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and
checking around:
To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to $600
est.
Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast
acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic
pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
New AH hatch - $1800.
I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a new
hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new Lewmar
Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?

This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have this
fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV has to
be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



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Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Looks great.

> On 06/25/2020 6:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I completed the shaft install today.  I ended up cutting off about 2.5 
> inches of shaft log.  Everything else went pretty well.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat 
> then please disregard.
> > 
> > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my 
> > C 37+.  In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft 
> > seal and strut bearing.
> > 
> > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard 
> > solid coupling.  I had had a R Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned 
> > to reuse.  The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new 
> > coupling is a split coupling from R Marine.  The new seal and coupling 
> > have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free 
> > shaft at most.
> > 
> > So here comes the question. 
> > 
> > First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I 
> > have 3. 
> > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to 
> > be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the 
> > thickness of the coupling bolts.
> > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated
> > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less 
> > articulation available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to 
> > center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just 
> > ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat.
> > 
> > Second:
> > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut 
> > the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a 
> > bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate.  Can any of you 
> > see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short?
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > 
> > Josh Muckley 
> > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

About 5 years ago I repowered with a Yanmar 3YM30AE which is a 30 HP engine and 
weighs much less and is quieter than than the previous 3HMF.  I changed to a 
3-blade fixed prop (16 x 13) and it is a good match.  I would make the same 
change all over again if I was faced with the same situation.  Good luck!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 7:56 PM, Gary Niemi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C Landfall 38 to New 
> Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs. It's 
> not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in the last 
> few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power anyway. We're 
> looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power plant.
> 
> So we have a couple of questions:
> 
> What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM 
> or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller 
> engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd 
> consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.
> 
> At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade 
> feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for that. 
> The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were able to 
> get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend 
> something? What have people tried?
> 
> Interested in hearing others' experiences.
> 
> Gary Niemi
> g...@niemi.co.nz
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

That was me!  10 years ago I replaced the three hatches on Secret Plans 
- two with Mainship hatches, the smaller one in the head I replaced with 
an Atkins and Hoyle because Mainship didn't have the size.  10 years 
later the Mainship hatches look great, the acrylic in the A looks like 
crazed crap.


http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html

Note, I did buy the inside latch only ones, but they do have double 
opening hatches.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2020-06-25 4:21 p.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:

Having had both, I think the AH are more robust and rebuildable than the
Lewmar. The plastic dogs on the lewmars wear away from friction, and just
seem cheesy.  And they start leaking around 10- 15 years.
Someone on the list had a picture of a really nice SS hatch, and I asked
about it, but I cannot find it in my bookmarks. Maybe that person is reading
this.

Bill

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List economics of hatches

Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and
checking around:
To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to $600
est.
Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast
acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic
pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
New AH hatch - $1800.
I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a new
hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new Lewmar
Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?

This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have this
fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV has to
be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



___

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.


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Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[Gary Niemi via CnC-List]

We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C Landfall 38 to New
Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs.
It's not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in
the last few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power
anyway. We're looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power
plant.

So we have a couple of questions:

What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM
or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller
engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd
consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.

At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade
feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for
that. The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were
able to get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend
something? What have people tried?

Interested in hearing others' experiences.

Gary Niemi
g...@niemi.co.nz
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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

My replacement windows, my companionway boards, and three hatch lenses all
came from one sheet of thick plexi I bought from eplastics.  I had them cut
it in half to reduce shipping costs, and I had them cut to size locally.  I
still have few pieces left.

Be mindful that eplastics' thickness guarantee has a margin of error.
Thickness became an issue for one of my hatch lenses as I recall. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 4:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

I got to thinking boats can't possibly be the only use for Plexiglas.

https://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass will make me TWO 19x19x1/2 hatch pieces
cut from the shape of the old glass or a tracing on paper with the radiused
corners and rounding off the edges if desired for about $400. For TWO!

I don't want any he-said-she-said, so if I do this I'll probably send them
the old piece!

Joe

Coquina

ps - my wife says buy an airplane, parts are cheaper. Cessna windshields run
under $300 for the smaller ones. LOL


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Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I completed the shaft install today.  I ended up cutting off about 2.5
inches of shaft log.  Everything else went pretty well.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please
> disregard.
>
> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C 37+.
> In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and
> strut bearing.
>
> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid
> coupling.  I had had a R Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to
> reuse.  The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new coupling
> is a split coupling from R Marine.  The new seal and coupling have added
> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most.
>
> So here comes the question.
>
> First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I have 3.
> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be
> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the
> thickness of the coupling bolts.
> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated
> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation
> available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to center
> itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride
> harder on the shaft and can even overheat.
>
> Second:
> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut the
> log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit
> more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate.  Can any of you see
> any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Based on my own maintenance and these discussions, I installed shutoff
valves.  I just so happens that I had to remove the water heater for
repairs.  This was a handy solution so that I can operate the engine.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FHsyjFqPREMKnchWUoUxkAg6HdaSPCXB

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi,
>
> I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T
> in the coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I
> guess the hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.
>
> So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember
> somebody here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water
> heater in case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is
> original it seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install
> them in line on each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with
> T fittings , engine side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I
> think it does't matter and that the engine system does not depend on this
> but i want to be sure.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Matching non-skid during deck repairs

[Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List]

Patrick and Kari,

You are correct that a paint roller will recreate the factory non-skid. I had 
great success blending in many places where I had rebuilt the deck of my old 
wrecked 30. It was a few years ago so exact details escape me. I used white 
Marine-Tex as its consistency was about right (has to be pretty thick). I 
spread an even thin layer over the whole repair area with a wide 
spatula/scraper and then used the paint roller, I think the right thickness of 
pile was 3/8”, but I could be wrong. You could use other pre-mixed epoxy 
putties such as Jamestown’s TotalFair and add thickener to get it just right. 
It’s not hard to do but a matter of practice to get it right. You should 
practice on a piece of plywood or some such flat surface and try a couple of 
different pile thicknesses, different pressure, etc. If the final product ends 
up a bit too aggressive, just hit it lightly with sandpaper to remove the 
points.

Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester, MA
C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:51 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Patrick and Kari,
> 
> Although probably not a reasonable solution if you are doing a small area or 
> repair job, I used AwlGrip’s GripTex 
> 
>  material when I repainted my decks. IMO, it was an exact match to the old 
> worn away non-skip on my model. No regrets.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I am doing some deck repairs and I realized I'm not certain how to recreate 
>> the non-skid look. I found a boat forum post that is from an old C service 
>> tech and he claims that in the factory they applied the gel coat, then used 
>> a roller brush of some sort to create this effect.
>> 
>> Any advice would be appreciated.
>> 
>> P.S. I am aware of a variety of non-skid products but would like to match 
>> the OEM process as close as possible.
>> 
>> Patrick and Kari Gateley
>> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I got to thinking boats can't possibly be the only use for Plexiglas.

https://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass will make me TWO 19x19x1/2 hatch 
pieces cut from the shape of the old glass or a tracing on paper with 
the radiused corners and rounding off the edges if desired for about 
$400. For TWO!


I don't want any he-said-she-said, so if I do this I'll probably send 
them the old piece!


Joe

Coquina

ps - my wife says buy an airplane, parts are cheaper. Cessna windshields 
run under $300 for the smaller ones. LOL



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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:

If the leak is around the bolt holes, the wood between the deck and the
liner may be wet. I recommend removing the bolts, drill out the holes with
a 1/2" or larger bit, and fill the holes with epoxy. After 24 hours,
redrill the holes for the 1/4" bolts, countersink the holes slightly, and
remount the collar using 4200 or Lifeseal (I prefer Lifeseal). If the leak
is around the mast (if the boot isn't keeping the water out), use Spartite.
Here's a link to a YouTube video describing the procedure:

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=yhs-invalid=You+Tube+Spartite#id=2=0c0b33ae95afda211235340051bdd29b=click

Alan Bergen

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 1:12 PM Kathy & Bruce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Understood, we’re talking about a mast collar.  Puts the check mark in the
> 5200 column.  Cheers
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Risch  wrote:
> >
> > 5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same
> thing without the PIA adhesive.
> >
> > David F. Risch
> > (401) 419-4650
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy &
> Bruce via CnC-List
> > Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
> > To: Fred Hazzard 
> > Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy
> >
> > 3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many
> more) amongst other permanent assembly applications.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
> >>
> >> 
> >> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem.
> >> I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have
> tried a variety flexible sealants with no success.
> >> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time
> I went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.
> >>
> >> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the
> deck.
> >> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will
> remain flexible.
> >>
> >> I welcome your ideas.
> >>
> >> Fred Hazzard
> >> S/V Fury
> >> C 44
> >> Portland Or
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8BK7C4fAAYhsHbuwK6YPwm9RCjk7Y81Wkq6ThpVOZSIU6LhQ7VPG5OQ3fGi-0oiUnIM$
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Agreed!

Which is why I mentioned that my expenditure was in 1998. The whole deal came 
in around the $1,200 for both.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Donald Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Your estimate is a little dated.  Below is an A estimate (Mar 2020) to 
> refurbish the original forward hatch (A model XR300) on 1974 C 35 Mk2:
> Labor- $250
> 1/2” lens - $500
> Gasket - $55.65
> Seals for through hardware - $65
> Polishing anodizing $200
> Total  $1070.65
> 
> Shipping back and forth is usually in the $60-$80 range. USD$ pricing
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> 
> 
> On 6/25/2020 3:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>> Joe,
>> 
>> I have both 
>> 
>>  an original 24” x 24” Atkins and Hoyle hatch and a new 24” Lewmar Ocean 
>> hatch on my boat. Because I stupidly bent the lower frame 
>> 
>>  while pulling all my deck hardware I needed a replacement, ergo the 
>> mismatch.
>> 
>> Although not as sexy as the Lewmar Ocean hatch 
>> ,
>>  I think that the A is a much sturdier and rugged item. As others have 
>> noted, around $600 USD. The good news is that it was 90% drop into place and 
>> matching up with the C finished cutout. And the A can be reversed if you 
>> have a mind.
>> 
>> I had A completely rebuild both hatches back in 1998 and with shipping it 
>> came to ~$600 USD per hatch…
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:26 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Joe:
>>> 
>>> Any time I can buy the materials and do the work myself, the money I save 
>>> buys a new tool for me. If you buy a standard size piece of 
>>> acrylic,  you can cut the hatch lens yourself, and also not have to pay 
>>> for the labor and wasted pieces of acrylic that you didn't use. So, for a 
>>> piece of 19" x 19" you might be paying for a piece of 24" x 48" (or 
>>> whatever width the acrylic comes in) plus labor. If you can get the old 
>>> lens out, you can cut the new one, and use a router and pattern bit to make 
>>> the new one. I'm sure you can find a use for the leftover acrylic.
>>> 
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:01 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and 
>>> checking around:
>>> To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to 
>>> $600 est.
>>> Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast 
>>> acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic 
>>> pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
>>> Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
>>> New AH hatch - $1800.
>>> I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a 
>>> new hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new 
>>> Lewmar Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?
>>> 
>>> This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have 
>>> this fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV 
>>> has to be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQ-W3tY6o$
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 

Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

As I have stated previously, you must be certain that you never want to remove 
it, for any reason, before using 5200.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 4:12 PM
To: David Risch 
Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

Understood, we’re talking about a mast collar.  Puts the check mark in the 5200 
column.  Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> 5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same thing 
> without the PIA adhesive.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
> To: Fred Hazzard 
> Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy
> 
> 3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
> amongst other permanent assembly applications.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. 
>> I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a 
>> variety flexible sealants with no success.
>> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I 
>> went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>> 
>> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
>> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
>> flexible. 
>> 
>> I welcome your ideas. 
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Donald Kern via CnC-List]

Dave,

Your estimate is a little dated.  Below is an A estimate (Mar 2020) to 
refurbish the original forward hatch (A model XR300) on 1974 C 35 Mk2:

Labor- $250
1/2” lens - $500
Gasket - $55.65
Seals for through hardware - $65
Polishing anodizing $200
Total  $1070.65

Shipping back and forth is usually in the $60-$80 range. USD$ pricing

Don Kern
/Fireball/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 6/25/2020 3:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

Joe,

I have both 
 an 
original 24” x 24” Atkins and Hoyle hatch and a new 24” Lewmar Ocean 
hatch on my boat. Because I stupidly bent the lower frame 
 while 
pulling all my deck hardware I needed a replacement, ergo the mismatch.


Although not as sexy as the Lewmar Ocean hatch 
, 
I think that the A is a much sturdier and rugged item. As others 
have noted, around $600 USD. The good news is that it was 90% drop 
into place and matching up with the C finished cutout. And the A 
can be reversed if you have a mind.


I had A completely rebuild both hatches back in 1998 and with 
shipping it came to ~$600 USD per hatch…


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:26 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Joe:

Any time I can buy the materials and do the work myself, the money I 
save buys a new tool for me. If you buy a standard size piece of 
acrylic,  you can cut the hatch lens yourself, and also not have to 
pay for the labor and wasted pieces of acrylic that you didn't use. 
So, for a piece of 19" x 19" you might be paying for a piece of 24" x 
48" (or whatever width the acrylic comes in) plus labor. If you can 
get the old lens out, you can cut the new one, and use a router and 
pattern bit to make the new one. I'm sure you can find a use for the 
leftover acrylic.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:01 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls
and checking around:
To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else -
$450 to $600 est.
Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece
of cast acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers.
Buying the acrylic pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
New AH hatch - $1800.
I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to
just buy a new hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have
an opinion on new Lewmar Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones)
vs. 47 year-old A-H?

This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but
I have this fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at
some point. The UV has to be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$




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Stus-List 6j

[Bill Burkett via CnC-List]

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Kathy & Bruce via CnC-List]

Understood, we’re talking about a mast collar.  Puts the check mark in the 5200 
column.  Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> 5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same thing 
> without the PIA adhesive.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
> To: Fred Hazzard 
> Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy
> 
> 3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
> amongst other permanent assembly applications.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. 
>> I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a 
>> variety flexible sealants with no success.
>> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I 
>> went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>> 
>> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
>> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
>> flexible. 
>> 
>> I welcome your ideas. 
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

What sikaflex 9000

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 3:37 PM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> 5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same
> thing without the PIA adhesive.
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
> To: Fred Hazzard 
> Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy
>
> 3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many
> more) amongst other permanent assembly applications.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
> >
> > 
> > All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem.
> > I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have
> tried a variety flexible sealants with no success.
> > Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I
> went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.
> >
> > There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the
> deck.
> > I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain
> flexible.
> >
> > I welcome your ideas.
> >
> > Fred Hazzard
> > S/V Fury
> > C 44
> > Portland Or
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Re: Stus-List Matching non-skid during deck repairs

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Patrick and Kari,

Although probably not a reasonable solution if you are doing a small area or 
repair job, I used AwlGrip’s GripTex 

 material when I repainted my decks. IMO, it was an exact match to the old worn 
away non-skip on my model. No regrets.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am doing some deck repairs and I realized I'm not certain how to recreate 
> the non-skid look. I found a boat forum post that is from an old C service 
> tech and he claims that in the factory they applied the gel coat, then used a 
> roller brush of some sort to create this effect.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> P.S. I am aware of a variety of non-skid products but would like to match the 
> OEM process as close as possible.
> 
> Patrick and Kari Gateley
> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Joe,

I have both 
 
an original 24” x 24” Atkins and Hoyle hatch and a new 24” Lewmar Ocean hatch 
on my boat. Because I stupidly bent the lower frame 
 
while pulling all my deck hardware I needed a replacement, ergo the mismatch.

Although not as sexy as the Lewmar Ocean hatch 
, 
I think that the A is a much sturdier and rugged item. As others have noted, 
around $600 USD. The good news is that it was 90% drop into place and matching 
up with the C finished cutout. And the A can be reversed if you have a mind.

I had A completely rebuild both hatches back in 1998 and with shipping it 
came to ~$600 USD per hatch…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:26 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joe:
> 
> Any time I can buy the materials and do the work myself, the money I save 
> buys a new tool for me. If you buy a standard size piece of acrylic,  you can 
> cut the hatch lens yourself, and also not have to pay for the labor and 
> wasted pieces of acrylic that you didn't use. So, for a piece of 19" x 19" 
> you might be paying for a piece of 24" x 48" (or whatever width the acrylic 
> comes in) plus labor. If you can get the old lens out, you can cut the new 
> one, and use a router and pattern bit to make the new one. I'm sure you can 
> find a use for the leftover acrylic.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:01 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and 
> checking around:
> To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to $600 
> est.
> Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast 
> acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic 
> pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
> Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
> New AH hatch - $1800.
> I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a new 
> hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new Lewmar 
> Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?
> 
> This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have this 
> fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV has to 
> be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.
> 
> 
> 
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQ-W3tY6o$
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[David Risch via CnC-List]

5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same thing 
without the PIA adhesive.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
To: Fred Hazzard 
Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
amongst other permanent assembly applications.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
> 
> 
> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. 
> I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a 
> variety flexible sealants with no success.
> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I went 
> for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>  
> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
> flexible. 
> 
> I welcome your ideas. 
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Kathy & Bruce via CnC-List]

3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
amongst other permanent assembly applications.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
> 
> 
> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. I have 
> had a leak where the 
> mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a variety flexible sealants 
> with no success. 
> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I went 
> for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>  
> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
> flexible. 
> 
> I welcome your ideas. 
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland Or 

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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Joe:

Any time I can buy the materials and do the work myself, the money I save
buys a new tool for me. If you buy a standard size piece of acrylic,  you
can cut the hatch lens yourself, and also not have to pay for the labor and
wasted pieces of acrylic that you didn't use. So, for a piece of 19" x 19"
you might be paying for a piece of 24" x 48" (or whatever width the acrylic
comes in) plus labor. If you can get the old lens out, you can cut the new
one, and use a router and pattern bit to make the new one. I'm sure you can
find a use for the leftover acrylic.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:01 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and
> checking around:
> To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to
> $600 est.
> Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast
> acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic
> pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
> Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
> New AH hatch - $1800.
> I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a
> new hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new
> Lewmar Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?
>
> This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have
> this fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV
> has to be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQ-W3tY6o$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Having had both, I think the AH are more robust and rebuildable than the
Lewmar. The plastic dogs on the lewmars wear away from friction, and just
seem cheesy.  And they start leaking around 10- 15 years.
Someone on the list had a picture of a really nice SS hatch, and I asked
about it, but I cannot find it in my bookmarks. Maybe that person is reading
this.

Bill

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List economics of hatches

Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and
checking around:
To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to $600
est.
Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast
acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic
pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
New AH hatch - $1800.
I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a new
hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new Lewmar
Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?

This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have this
fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV has to
be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



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Stus-List economics of hatches

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and checking 
around:
To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to $600 
est.
Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast 
acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic 
pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
New AH hatch - $1800.
I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a new 
hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new Lewmar Ocean 
(not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?

This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have this 
fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV has to be 
doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

Would Gflex work?


Glen Eddie
Tel: 416-777-5357
Fax: 1-888-812-2557
ged...@torkinmanes.com
VCard
Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer
151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
torkinmanes.com
An international member of Ally Law
​
​This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.
On Jun. 25, 2020 2:19 p.m., Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
wrote:
If you need flexible, probably your best bet is butyl tape. Not epoxy, though.

Marek


 Original message 
From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
Date: 2020-06-25 14:09 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. I have 
had a leak where the
mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a variety flexible sealants with 
no success.
Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I went 
for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.

There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck.
I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
flexible.

I welcome your ideas.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you need flexible, probably your best bet is butyl tape. Not epoxy, though.

Marek


 Original message 
From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
Date: 2020-06-25 14:09 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. I have 
had a leak where the
mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a variety flexible sealants with 
no success.
Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I went 
for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.

There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck.
I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
flexible.

I welcome your ideas.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List testing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

When filling holes with thickened epoxy be sure holes are countersunk. This 
presents cracking around the hole. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C Landfall 
39Port Orchard yacht club
null___

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Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. I
have had a leak where the
mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a variety flexible sealants
with no success.
Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I
went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.

There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck.
I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain
flexible.

I welcome your ideas.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
___

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Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Hair dryer trick sounds like good advice.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 11:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

I tried something different on my 34 years ago.  Most of the screws holding the 
forward hatch were getting loose and, of course, the reason was wet core 
underneath.  I drilled out all of the screw holes (oversized a bit) and dried 
the core where necessary using a trick taught to me by my West System guru.  
Take a suitably sized Tupperware container, remove the top (throw it away), and 
cut a hole in the bottom the size of a small hair dryer nozzle.  Place the 
hairdryer nozzle into the hole you cut, tape it in place with duct tape, tape 
the hair dryer contraption in place on the deck over the wet core holes, and 
let it run for a while (low heat setting will prevent it from overheating).  I 
needed to move the contraption around to dry various holes in my case.  Once 
you’re satisfied the core area is sufficiently dry, you can then repair.

What I did differently in this case was, instead of screwing back into cured 
epoxy (or using plastic anchors), I bought some stainless inserts for machine 
screws and epoxied them in place.  (Yardley product as I recall.)  When I was 
finished, I could unscrew the machine screws to remove the hatch.  Because the 
inserts were epoxied in place and isolated from the core, I didn’t worry much 
about the seal at the deck after that.  It was a lot of extra work (not sure it 
was worth it), but the forward hatch was solidly connected to the deck and I 
never had a problem.

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 6:39 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no thickener) using a 
cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened with microfibers.  
Redrill and use new screws same size as the original.

I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy first.  You 
don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Guys,

The fiberglass sea good that covers the cabintop window and companionway slider 
on my 34R is attached with a dozen #8 x 1" wood screws.  The holes for these 
screws penetrate the balsa core of the cabintop and were sealed with white 
caulk.  There is no way to through bolt it.  I'm planning to overdrill the 
holes to 3/4" and fill with Thixo flexible epoxy and then drill the holes to 
1/4" to take plastic masonry anchors.  The SS wood screws will like these 
anchors, be removable and the core will be better protected from water 
penetration.  I'm trying to decide between using plastic masonry anchors made 
for wood screws, or screw in threaded fittings and use machine screws.   Or 
maybe I should drill and tap the epoxy and use machine screws?  Any better 
ideas?

Masonry anchors:
https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fasteners/Anchors/Tubular-Screw-Anchors/483072

Threaded fittings:
https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/thread-insert/self-locking-inserts?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT

Thanks,
Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
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Stus-List Matching non-skid during deck repairs

[Patrick Gateley via CnC-List]

Hello,

I am doing some deck repairs and I realized I'm not certain how to recreate the 
non-skid look. I found a boat forum post that is from an old C service tech 
and he claims that in the factory they applied the gel coat, then used a roller 
brush of some sort to create this effect.

Any advice would be appreciated.

P.S. I am aware of a variety of non-skid products but would like to match the 
OEM process as close as possible.

Patrick and Kari Gateley
1988 C 44' "Odessa"___

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Re: Stus-List testing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Just drilled six holes in my test panel and filled with epoxy.  Have to wait 
for cure and then I'll compare pilot holes and screws to plastic anchors.   I 
did two holes using Thixo Flexible epoxy which is new to me but very easy to 
use.   I really like how it mixes itself in the nozzle and comes out a gel.   
Prepped all the holes the same: undercut with a router bit in my drill to 
remove a little extra balsa so the epoxy plug has a top flange to hold it in.  
It's 85 here so I used slow hardener to get a fair test.  Painted all the balsa 
with neat 105/206 using a very small acid brush and then added 404 to the mix 
until ketchup consistency and slowly worked the thickened epoxy into each of 
the first four holes using the mixing stick and the small brush being careful 
not to trap air.  Filled the last two holes with Thixo after painting the balsa 
with neat 105/206. 

Chuck S

> On 06/25/2020 10:12 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Dennis,
> Agree on applying neat epoxy before thickened epoxy.  It eliminates air 
> gaps and extends the bond deeper into the core.  You're suggesting I pilot 
> hole and screw into the cured epoxy and not use plastic anchors?
> 
> Chuck S
> 
> 
> 
> > > On 06/24/2020 6:39 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no 
> > thickener) using a cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened 
> > with microfibers.  Redrill and use new screws same size as the original.
> > 
> > I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy 
> > first.  You don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> > 
> > On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Another solid candidate for gluing to acrylic or lexan directly to another 
plastic is Plexus 300/350. About $30 with manual mixing applicator and it is 
recommended by Lewmar.
My Lewmar #20 ports have inside handles only and these are glued on with this. 
I never believed it would hold when the hatches are in the 'closed tight' 
position with maximum force trying to separate the handle from the acrylic. To 
my surprise and amazement it has held without issues for years, until a crew 
steps on it, etc. but then it just gets glued back and lasts again.
Would not want to get my fingers stuck together with it for sure!!
Charlie Nelson


-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thu, Jun 25, 2020 10:10 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

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div.yiv5817389147Section1 {}#yiv5817389147 I am glad you mentioned this Lee, I 
remember that beingdiscussed, and was looking for that a year or so ago, but I 
was looking for HighTemp Silicone black for some reason. I think I will do 
another tensile test with the Krylon and thePurple People Eater Primer. The 
nice thing about the black Krylon, if it bonds well enough,is that it protects 
the adhesive beneath it from UV.    And to the other comment about cheaping 
out, I agree totally, havingdone window three years in a row  with bad results. 
It is not worth it with allthe work involved. I would test it first. And If you 
are looking for a really premium adhesive for plasticand urethane, I can highly 
recommend Lord Epoxy Adhesive, 320/322. I believe itis a descendent of Chemloc. 
  I can attest to its tenacity with Urethane, althoI haven’t used it with 
Plastic yet.  Only problem is finding it.    Bill Coleman    From: 
CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee Youngblood 
viaCnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!    Hum, I thought 
this was solved years ago!  Get theKrylon black plastic paint - $4 or 5 bucks 
for the spray can and do a couplepasses around the window.      You really 
should go to a C RDV, especially the onesin BC, where the tech talks have 
covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!          
On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List wrote:    Yeah, you need the primer, not much 
sticks to acrylic or Lexan.That was one of the irritating things about using 
the 295uv was that you had topay around 40 bucks for a can of primer that you 
only used a teaspoon of.   I was just wondering the other day, if that purple 
primer theysell to prime PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result 
– Iwouldn’t be surprised, and for only a few bucks.    I tried gluing a couple 
pieces of Lexan together with 795 acouple years ago, just to see how it stuck, 
and it didn’t take much to pullapart.  I should try that again with the purple 
primer.   Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24,2020 1:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-Listhatch repair   I haven't used primer. I did the aft cabin 
hatch 3 yearsago, and no leaks. I had the some primer for the saloon and 
v-berth hatches,didn't notice it was the wrong stuff until it was too late.    
On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:56 AM dwight veinot via 
CnC-Listwrote: 
I hope you used the primer for the Sikaflex. First time Idid not and the thing 
leaked inside of 2 years. Cleaned it up all over agsinand used primer second 
time. Still good after 5 years no leaks. The primer madethe difference   On 
Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:54 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
wrote: 
Hi Joe, I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug outmost of the 
sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cutthe bond 
between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up theremainder of 
sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small bevelon both the top 
and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I didn't wantsealant. Laid a 
bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into frame and pusheddown with just 
enough force to make the 

Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Yes.  Overbore, coat with neat epoxy, fill with thickened epoxy then drill
pilot hole same size or slightly larger as shaft of fastener.

Dennis C.
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Stus-List Lewmar Hatches

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for 
the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is 
an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge 
kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they would provide the 
dimensional drawings for the repair kits. The answer was “sorry no, it is 
intellectual property”.

I can use the old plastic trim piece as a mould to make a new part with 
fibreglass if necessary. If anyone has a suggestion on replicating the hinge 
kit parts using 3D printing, let me know, I have one new kit of each size left 
in the Crazy Legs inventory and I need to use it soon. 

Len

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Lewmar Hatches

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for 
the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is 
an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge 
kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they would provide the 
dimensional drawings for the repair kits. The answer was “sorry no, it is 
intellectual property”.

I can use the old plastic trim piece as a mould to make a new part with 
fibreglass if necessary. If anyone has a suggestion on replicating the hinge 
kit parts using 3D printing, let me know, I have one new kit of each size left 
in the Crazy Legs inventory and I need to use it soon. 

Len

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I tried something different on my 34 years ago.  Most of the screws holding the 
forward hatch were getting loose and, of course, the reason was wet core 
underneath.  I drilled out all of the screw holes (oversized a bit) and dried 
the core where necessary using a trick taught to me by my West System guru.  
Take a suitably sized Tupperware container, remove the top (throw it away), and 
cut a hole in the bottom the size of a small hair dryer nozzle.  Place the 
hairdryer nozzle into the hole you cut, tape it in place with duct tape, tape 
the hair dryer contraption in place on the deck over the wet core holes, and 
let it run for a while (low heat setting will prevent it from overheating).  I 
needed to move the contraption around to dry various holes in my case.  Once 
you’re satisfied the core area is sufficiently dry, you can then repair.

 

What I did differently in this case was, instead of screwing back into cured 
epoxy (or using plastic anchors), I bought some stainless inserts for machine 
screws and epoxied them in place.  (Yardley product as I recall.)  When I was 
finished, I could unscrew the machine screws to remove the hatch.  Because the 
inserts were epoxied in place and isolated from the core, I didn’t worry much 
about the seal at the deck after that.  It was a lot of extra work (not sure it 
was worth it), but the forward hatch was solidly connected to the deck and I 
never had a problem.

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom   

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 6:39 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

 

I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no thickener) using a 
cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened with microfibers.  
Redrill and use new screws same size as the original.

 

I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy first.  You 
don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Guys, 

 

The fiberglass sea good that covers the cabintop window and companionway slider 
on my 34R is attached with a dozen #8 x 1" wood screws.  The holes for these 
screws penetrate the balsa core of the cabintop and were sealed with white 
caulk.  There is no way to through bolt it.  I'm planning to overdrill the 
holes to 3/4" and fill with Thixo flexible epoxy and then drill the holes to 
1/4" to take plastic masonry anchors.  The SS wood screws will like these 
anchors, be removable and the core will be better protected from water 
penetration.  I'm trying to decide between using plastic masonry anchors made 
for wood screws, or screw in threaded fittings and use machine screws.   Or 
maybe I should drill and tap the epoxy and use machine screws?  Any better 
ideas? 

 

Masonry anchors: 

https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fasteners/Anchors/Tubular-Screw-Anchors/483072
 

 

Threaded fittings: 

https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/thread-insert/self-locking-inserts?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT
 

 

Thanks, 

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump hose

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I recently ordered some Trident 147 hose for this purpose.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3058097  It appears sufficiently
robust, and I like: a) it does not required cuffs; and b) the exterior is
smooth for cleaning.  Do not get the less expensive Trident 144, as the
exterior is not smooth and it should be sold with cuffs (which I don't
believe are available).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:30 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump hose

 

All the talk about the bilge pumps and switches brought up in mind (the long
overdue) need to replace the bilge pump hose.

 

Is there a "recommended" hose? I don't want to do the replacement and go
through the pain running that hose through various tight spots and turns
only to find out that the hose would disintegrate in a few years.

 

Thank you for your suggestions.

 

Marek

19945 C270 Legato.

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

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Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/bonding-fasteners-hardware/

 

 

Bill

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of CHARLES 
SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

 

Hi Dennis, 

Agree on applying neat epoxy before thickened epoxy.  It eliminates air gaps 
and extends the bond deeper into the core.  You're suggesting I pilot hole and 
screw into the cured epoxy and not use plastic anchors? 

 

Chuck S 

 

 

On 06/24/2020 6:39 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote: 

 

 

I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no thickener) using a 
cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened with microfibers.  
Redrill and use new screws same size as the original. 

 

I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy first.  You 
don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps. 

 

Dennis C. 

Touche' 35-1 #83 

Mandeville, LA 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 

 

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Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
Agree on applying neat epoxy before thickened epoxy.  It eliminates air gaps 
and extends the bond deeper into the core.  You're suggesting I pilot hole and 
screw into the cured epoxy and not use plastic anchors?

Chuck S



> On 06/24/2020 6:39 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no thickener) 
> using a cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened with 
> microfibers.  Redrill and use new screws same size as the original.
> 
> I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy first. 
>  You don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > > 
> 
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Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am glad you mentioned this Lee, I remember that being discussed, and was 
looking for that a year or so ago, but I was looking for High Temp Silicone 
black for some reason.

I think I will do another tensile test with the Krylon and the Purple People 
Eater Primer.

The nice thing about the black Krylon, if it bonds well enough, is that it 
protects the adhesive beneath it from UV.

 

And to the other comment about cheaping out, I agree totally, having done 
window three years in a row  with bad results. It is not worth it with all the 
work involved. I would test it first.

And If you are looking for a really premium adhesive for plastic and urethane, 
I can highly recommend Lord Epoxy Adhesive, 320/322. I believe it is a 
descendent of Chemloc.   I can attest to its tenacity with Urethane, altho I 
haven’t used it with Plastic yet.  Only problem is finding it.

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

 

Hum, I thought this was solved years ago!  Get the Krylon black plastic paint - 
$4 or 5 bucks for the spray can and do a couple passes around the window.  

 

You really should go to a C RDV, especially the ones in BC, where the tech 
talks have covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!

 

 

 

On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Yeah, you need the primer, not much sticks to acrylic or Lexan. That was one of 
the irritating things about using the 295uv was that you had to pay around 40 
bucks for a can of primer that you only used a teaspoon of.  

I was just wondering the other day, if that purple primer they sell to prime 
PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result – I wouldn’t be 
surprised, and for only a few bucks. 

 

I tried gluing a couple pieces of Lexan together with 795 a couple years ago, 
just to see how it stuck, and it didn’t take much to pull apart.  I should try 
that again with the purple primer.

 

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 1:31 PM
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair

 

I haven't used primer. I did the aft cabin hatch 3 years ago, and no leaks. I 
had the some primer for the saloon and v-berth hatches, didn't notice it was 
the wrong stuff until it was too late. 

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:56 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I hope you used the primer for the Sikaflex. First time I did not and the thing 
leaked inside of 2 years. Cleaned it up all over agsin and used primer second 
time. Still good after 5 years no leaks. The primer made the difference

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:54 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Joe,

I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug out most of the 
sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cut the bond 
between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up the remainder of 
sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small bevel on both the 
top and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I didn't want sealant. 
Laid a bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into frame and pushed down with 
just enough force to make the lens leves with the frame. I then filled the gap 
between the frame and plexiglass. You will want to make sure you get as many of 
the voids as possible. 

  
https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html

 

Doug.

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 8:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I have been asking about sending my hatches in for refurbishment and it isn't 
cheap. Am I overthinking it? I only need two things, one is putting a new 
gasket in and the other is a new piece of Plexiglas. I can buy the gasket and 
the glue and the local shop can duplicate the glass easy enough. Thankfully I 
don't have the kind of hatch that opens from the outside, so there are no knob 
or O rings to leak.
Question - how do you get the hatch off? The pins don't look designed to be 
removed easily. Do you cut them and then get new ones?


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
  www.dellabarba.com



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-- 

Douglas Mountjoy

Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Be careful when replacing RAM mic's. Even mic's from the same manufacturer
can do damage to the VHF if it isn't matched to that radio. I have an ICOM
VHF. when the cable was damaged, I found out that it was no longer
available. When questioning the tech at ICOM, he found another cable with a
different part number that matched the one for my mic. It saved me the
trouble and cost of buying a new mic.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 5:51 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I will send Stu $20 right now Joe
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Joe Della
> Barba via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 25, 2020 9:46 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joe Della Barba 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector
>
>
>
> I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.
>
> It looks like this:
> https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg
> 
>
> The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.
>
> It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 for
> Stu and it's yours :)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.
>
>
>
> Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found
> that one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck
> in side the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works
> perfectly (or did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the
> male socket that is attached to the hull.
>
>
>
> The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”
>
>
>
> I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be
> quite expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4L6I5oeEB8XE5XMw5D0yrCXZqUJnKUfz-Mz_J3vc1aga_I_vZEMj7teih37uYNKSutY$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Broken pin in electronic connector

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Can you send me your mailing address?
J

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 8:51 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

I will send Stu $20 right now Joe

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector


I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.

It looks like this: 
https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg

The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.

It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 for Stu 
and it's yours :)

Joe

Coquina
On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found that 
one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck in side 
the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works perfectly (or 
did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male socket that is 
attached to the hull.

The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be quite 
expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


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Stus-List Fwd: Broken pin in electronic connector

[Mike Taylor via CnC-List]

Mike

I literally just did this.  My granddaughter broke off the pin for her earbuds 
in the headphone socket on her Kindle.  There are lots of videos on YouTube.  
In the end I was able to pop it out with a sharp object (map pin) and lots of 
persistence (pun intended)

Mike


Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
> Date: June 25, 2020 at 8:21:06 AM EDT
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> Subject: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector
> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.
>  
> Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found 
> that one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck 
> in side the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works 
> perfectly (or did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male 
> socket that is attached to the hull.
>  
> The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”
>  
> I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be 
> quite expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I will send Stu $20 right now Joe

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector


I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.

It looks like this: 
https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg

The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.

It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 for Stu 
and it's yours :)

Joe

Coquina
On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found that 
one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck in side 
the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works perfectly (or 
did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male socket that is 
attached to the hull.

The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be quite 
expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.

It looks like this: 
https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg


The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.

It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 
for Stu and it's yours :)


Joe

Coquina

On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we 
found that one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and 
is now stuck in side the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  
The RAM mic works perfectly (or did before this) and all that needs to 
be replaced is the male socket that is attached to the hull.


The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would 
be quite expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself


Thanks

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS


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Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found that 
one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck in side 
the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works perfectly (or 
did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male socket that is 
attached to the hull.

The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be quite 
expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I made a setup like that.  I have not yet installed it.  This would be my
"second" stage - maybe only with a manual switch.  With the centrifugal
being the first.
https://youtu.be/mEFCPYiqdbg

Josh

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 11:40 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> http://lnvtblog.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-slurpee-bilge-pump.html’
>
>
>
>
> https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/
>
>
>
> I think this came up around a year ago –
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Rutherford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 24, 2020 11:13 AM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>
>
>
> Johnson Pumps integrated pump and electronic sensor 32-47260-003 1000 GPH
> Ultima Bilge Pump, 12V, works good for me now.
>
>
>
> The bilge on my centerboard boat is quite shallow and there is no room for
> a switch at the same level as the pump resulting in more than necessary
> residual water level  if controled with a typical float switch. This pump
> requires careful placement to ensure proper start-stop operation. First
> unit ran dry and failed but was replaced under warranty. Works with a
> typical 3-wire bilge control panel.
>
>
>
> Pump runs dry sometimes when sailing heeled over so occassionally have to
> switch to manual.
>
>
>
> This freed up the existing rule-matic switch to be used as a high water
> sensor wired to a water witch BP500 alarm mounted topside in the cockpit.
>
>
>
> Wish I had a diaphragm pump for a really dry bilge but with the A/C
> running almost nonstop here in Florida, and draining condensate into the
> bilge, it's not a likely solution.
>
>
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
>
> 1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
>
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> Tampa, Florida
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 4:02 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Krylon paint is the equivalent of the $40/$60 or more primer? THAT would be 
great ☺

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List 
Cc: Lee Youngblood 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

Hum, I thought this was solved years ago!  Get the Krylon black plastic paint - 
$4 or 5 bucks for the spray can and do a couple passes around the window.

You really should go to a C RDV, especially the ones in BC, where the tech 
talks have covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!



On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yeah, you need the primer, not much sticks to acrylic or Lexan. That was one of 
the irritating things about using the 295uv was that you had to pay around 40 
bucks for a can of primer that you only used a teaspoon of.
I was just wondering the other day, if that purple primer they sell to prime 
PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result – I wouldn’t be 
surprised, and for only a few bucks.

I tried gluing a couple pieces of Lexan together with 795 a couple years ago, 
just to see how it stuck, and it didn’t take much to pull apart.  I should try 
that again with the purple primer.

Bill Coleman
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