Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Interesting i have a plastic ?poly ? Tank now i have to check it out  looks 
like a platform was built for iy im sr
Starboard lazzerette next to house battery
Ies. It  will need to be removed to get to  vent hose , shaft ... who knows 
what else but not too thrilled  about that. No leaks though :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Aug 17, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yes, but polyethylene is not good for fuel tanks.  Plastic fuel tanks are 
constructed from some other type of plastic and they are normally molded.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)


On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
# mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to have 
it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
.  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.
Not so much fun this year..
Spencer Johnson
84 LF38
Waukegan IL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, but polyethylene is not good for fuel tanks.  Plastic fuel tanks are 
constructed from some other type of plastic and they are normally molded.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Boyer via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Boyer
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements
>  
> I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The 
> upgrade in thickness was a minimal cost.
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
> 
> On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
> # mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to 
> have it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
> .  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
> 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
> Not so much fun this year..
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Waukegan IL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Dan,
Your hull number is part of your HIN. Hull numbers used between October 31, 
1972 and August 1, 1984 are formatted this way:

HIN:
ABC12345M79A

ABC = Manufacturer's code
12 = Model
345 = Serial Number (Hull Number)
M
79 = Year built
A = Month: A= August B =September...

Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: Daniel 
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 5:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Aaron Rouhi 
Subject: Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30

Where is that plaque? I can’t find mine. No idea what hull number she is. 1973 
mk1.

Sent from my iPhone

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

On my boat, it's on the companion way's side.

Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD

From: CnC-List  on behalf of T Smyth via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 3:01 PM
To: Daniel 
Cc: T Smyth ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30

Mine is located in the cockpit on the transom.

On Aug 16, 2020, at 5:05 PM, Daniel  wrote:

 Where is that plaque? I can’t find mine. No idea what hull number she is. 
1973 mk1.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 16, 2020, at 17:20, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
wrote:


Thank you Tom!

Aaron
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD

From: CnC-List  on behalf of T Smyth via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30


Here is a link to an image of my plaque, C 30, 1974 (taken prior to a nice 
re-painting of the cockpit!):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KdcehGGebkX1qkRr7

Tom
C 30, MK1 (1974) #286 -0574

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Greasing thru hulls

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I use my pinky finger and push a dollop of grease up against the shut valve
ball.  I try to focus the dollop in the circumference.  A small makeup
brush or acid brush would probably work fine too.  Maybe try a round sponge
or foam cut to the diameter of the hole?  One the grease is in there I have
my partner cycle the valve a few times.  On the bigger valves I can fit my
finger in through a partially closed valve and get grease on the back side
of the ball.  Good communication is needed cause your partner can easily
pinch your finger in the valve seat.  Ouch!

Since I have a Max-Prop they call for Lubra-Plate 130AA and the grease gun
nozzel fits in the through-hull just about perfect so injecting a pump of
grease and then re-spreading it with my pinky after a few cycles works well.

I keep greasing and cycling until the valve is smooth and no longer getting
easier to operate.  I also wait for any bottom paint work to be completed
since I will inevitably get grease on the periphery causing paint not to
stick.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Aug 17, 2020, 17:34 Adam via CnC-List  wrote:

> Josh
>
> This might be a dumb question but how do you grease the thru hulls?  Do
> they have to be disassembled?
>
> Thanks
> Adam
> C 36
> Pictou NS
>
> On Aug. 17, 2020 11:37 a.m., cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (Josh Muckley)
>2. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (cenel...@aol.com)
>3. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (David Risch)
>4. Re:  C 33 MK II backstay (Adrian Humphreys)
>5. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (Robert Boyer)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 09:42:14 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The Marlon thru hulls should be fine indefinitely.  Attempting to replace
> them is just asking for trouble.  Leave well enough alone.
>
> Now greasing the Marlon through hulls?  That's a completely different
> story.  The manufacturer recommends grease every 6 months.  I do mine
> every
> time the boat is out of the water...once a year.  Vaseline is fine.
> You'll
> need and inside guy and an outside guy.  Cycle, grease, cycle, grease
>
> Unless you plan to step and unstep the mast regularly, I would take the
> time now to inspect the mast step and torque the keel bolts.  This is also
> a good time to inspect the mast collar for leaks and tighten/reseal the
> fasteners if necessary.  My mast ground wire was undersized and in
> deplorable condition.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020, 09:27 Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > We are planning to splash our 1990 C 34+ fall and need wisdom/advise
> > from the group.  DejaVu has been on her trailer with mast down for the
> past
> > 5 years and we haven?t given her any attention.  I am looking for
> comments
> > & advise on ?what maintenance? we should compete prior to putting her
> back
> > in the water. Things that I am planning to do include;
> >
> > Fairing keel/hull joint
> > Hull was scraped down to fiberglass prior to trailer layup.  So bottom
> job
> > for shur - barrier coat hull prior to bottom job???
> > Inspect all rigging and masthead points & test lights/VHF antenna
> > Max prop maintenance
> > Replace exhaust elbow
> > Polish diesel fuel - possible remove fuel entirely, install access ports
> > and ?scrub fuel tank on inside???
> > Change all filters & impeller
> > Thru Hulls - these are all original 30 year old Marlon.   Is it time to
> > replace these??
> >
> > Any help & advise is appreciated.  Other things we have missed?
> >
> > Stephen Thorne
> > Deja Vu? C 34+
> > Lake Lanier
> > 770.722.2848
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 

Re: Stus-List NVDC online payment

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I did enter from the NVDC site.
Did you  get it to open?
I keep getting this message:

This site can’t be reached

*www.pay.gov *’s server IP address could not be found.
DNS_PROBE_FINISHED_NXDOMAIN


Maybe I need to clear my cache?

*Chuck Borge*
*508-642-3557*


On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 6:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did you enter from the VDC site?  Try this link:
> https://www.pay.gov/public/form/start/1175233
>
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 4:49 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> It's document renewal time for us, and I'm trying to renew our Vessel
>> Documentation but the pay.gov site to pay online seems to be down...
>> anyone else have that problem?
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Borge*
>> *Tenacious *
>> *C 41*
>> *Somerset, MA*
>>
>>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Greasing thru hulls

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Marelon says that you should.  They even have a special grease.

But they also say that if you work the valve regularly it does not need 
greasing that often.

My problem is 'how' to do it. Reaching into the through-hull, even with a very 
long q-tip is not that easy,  and greasing the ball even more problematic.

Marek


 Original message 
From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
Date: 2020-08-17 17:45 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Greasing thru hulls

Here another question why grease the thru hull

On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 5:34 PM Adam via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Josh

This might be a dumb question but how do you grease the thru hulls?  Do they 
have to be disassembled?

Thanks
Adam
C 36
Pictou NS

On Aug. 17, 2020 11:37 a.m., 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to


cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>





To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit


http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to


cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>





You can reach the person managing the list at


cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com>





When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific


than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."








Today's Topics:





   1. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (Josh Muckley)


   2. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (cenel...@aol.com<mailto:cenel...@aol.com>)


   3. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (David Risch)


   4. Re:  C 33 MK II backstay (Adrian Humphreys)


   5. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (Robert Boyer)








--





Message: 1


Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 09:42:14 -0400


From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>


To: "C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>


Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise


Message-ID:


mailto:ca%2bzacra-cu_qg1svpa%2byuwfwynkmcgx7cibxb-pgvw5-ku6...@mail.gmail.com>>


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"





The Marlon thru hulls should be fine indefinitely.  Attempting to replace


them is just asking for trouble.  Leave well enough alone.





Now greasing the Marlon through hulls?  That's a completely different


story.  The manufacturer recommends grease every 6 months.  I do mine every


time the boat is out of the water...once a year.  Vaseline is fine.  You'll


need and inside guy and an outside guy.  Cycle, grease, cycle, grease





Unless you plan to step and unstep the mast regularly, I would take the


time now to inspect the mast step and torque the keel bolts.  This is also


a good time to inspect the mast collar for leaks and tighten/reseal the


fasteners if necessary.  My mast ground wire was undersized and in


deplorable condition.





Josh Muckley


S/V Sea Hawk


1989 C 37+


Solomons, MD








On Mon, Aug 17, 2020, 09:27 Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <


cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:





>


> We are planning to splash our 1990 C 34+ fall and need wisdom/advise


> from the group.  DejaVu has been on her trailer with mast down for the past


> 5 years and we haven?t given her any attention.  I am looking for comments


> & advise on ?what maintenance? we should compete prior to putting her back


> in the water. Things that I am planning to do include;


>


> Fairing keel/hull joint


> Hull was scraped down to fiberglass prior to trailer layup.  So bottom job


> for shur - barrier coat hull prior to bottom job???


> Inspect all rigging and masthead points & test lights/VHF antenna


> Max prop maintenance


> Replace exhaust elbow


> Polish diesel fuel - possible remove fuel entirely, install access ports


> and ?scrub fuel tank on inside???


> Change all filters & impeller


> Thru Hulls - these are all original 30 year old Marlon.   Is it time to


> replace these??


>


> Any help & advise is appreciated.  Other things we have missed?


>


> Stephen Thorne


> Deja Vu? C 34+


> Lake Lanier


> 770.722.2848


>


> ___


>


> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each


> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -


> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


>


>


-- next part --


An HTML attachment was scrubbed...


URL: 
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20200817/be854c24/attachment-0001.html>





--

Re: Stus-List NVDC online payment

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Did you enter from the VDC site?  Try this link:
https://www.pay.gov/public/form/start/1175233

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 4:49 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> It's document renewal time for us, and I'm trying to renew our Vessel
> Documentation but the pay.gov site to pay online seems to be down...
> anyone else have that problem?
>
>
> *Chuck Borge*
> *Tenacious *
> *C 41*
> *Somerset, MA*
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List NVDC online payment

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hello all,

It's document renewal time for us, and I'm trying to renew our Vessel
Documentation but the pay.gov site to pay online seems to be down... anyone
else have that problem?


*Chuck Borge*
*Tenacious *
*C 41*
*Somerset, MA*
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Greasing thru hulls

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Here another question why grease the thru hull

On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 5:34 PM Adam via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh
>
> This might be a dumb question but how do you grease the thru hulls?  Do
> they have to be disassembled?
>
> Thanks
> Adam
> C 36
> Pictou NS
>
> On Aug. 17, 2020 11:37 a.m., cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>
>
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>
>
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>
>
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>
>
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>
>
>
>
>1. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (Josh Muckley)
>
>
>2. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (cenel...@aol.com)
>
>
>3. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (David Risch)
>
>
>4. Re:  C 33 MK II backstay (Adrian Humphreys)
>
>
>5. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (Robert Boyer)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 1
>
>
> Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 09:42:14 -0400
>
>
> From: Josh Muckley 
>
>
> To: "C List" 
>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise
>
>
> Message-ID:
>
>
> 
>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
>
>
> The Marlon thru hulls should be fine indefinitely.  Attempting to replace
>
>
> them is just asking for trouble.  Leave well enough alone.
>
>
>
>
>
> Now greasing the Marlon through hulls?  That's a completely different
>
>
> story.  The manufacturer recommends grease every 6 months.  I do mine every
>
>
> time the boat is out of the water...once a year.  Vaseline is fine.  You'll
>
>
> need and inside guy and an outside guy.  Cycle, grease, cycle, grease
>
>
>
>
>
> Unless you plan to step and unstep the mast regularly, I would take the
>
>
> time now to inspect the mast step and torque the keel bolts.  This is also
>
>
> a good time to inspect the mast collar for leaks and tighten/reseal the
>
>
> fasteners if necessary.  My mast ground wire was undersized and in
>
>
> deplorable condition.
>
>
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020, 09:27 Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <
>
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
>
> > We are planning to splash our 1990 C 34+ fall and need wisdom/advise
>
>
> > from the group.  DejaVu has been on her trailer with mast down for the
> past
>
>
> > 5 years and we haven?t given her any attention.  I am looking for
> comments
>
>
> > & advise on ?what maintenance? we should compete prior to putting her
> back
>
>
> > in the water. Things that I am planning to do include;
>
>
> >
>
>
> > Fairing keel/hull joint
>
>
> > Hull was scraped down to fiberglass prior to trailer layup.  So bottom
> job
>
>
> > for shur - barrier coat hull prior to bottom job???
>
>
> > Inspect all rigging and masthead points & test lights/VHF antenna
>
>
> > Max prop maintenance
>
>
> > Replace exhaust elbow
>
>
> > Polish diesel fuel - possible remove fuel entirely, install access ports
>
>
> > and ?scrub fuel tank on inside???
>
>
> > Change all filters & impeller
>
>
> > Thru Hulls - these are all original 30 year old Marlon.   Is it time to
>
>
> > replace these??
>
>
> >
>
>
> > Any help & advise is appreciated.  Other things we have missed?
>
>
> >
>
>
> > Stephen Thorne
>
>
> > Deja Vu? C 34+
>
>
> > Lake Lanier
>
>
> > 770.722.2848
>
>
> >
>
>
> > ___
>
>
> >
>
>
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>
>
> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>
>
> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.p

Stus-List Greasing thru hulls

[Adam via CnC-List]

JoshThis might be a dumb question but how do you grease the thru hulls?  Do they have to be disassembled?ThanksAdamC 36Pictou NSOn Aug. 17, 2020 11:37 a.m., cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
	cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
	cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (Josh Muckley)
   2. Re:  Recommissioning Advise (cenel...@aol.com)
   3. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (David Risch)
   4. Re:  C 33 MK II backstay (Adrian Humphreys)
   5. Re:  Head faucet/shower replacement... (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 09:42:14 -0400
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise
Message-ID:
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

The Marlon thru hulls should be fine indefinitely.  Attempting to replace
them is just asking for trouble.  Leave well enough alone.

Now greasing the Marlon through hulls?  That's a completely different
story.  The manufacturer recommends grease every 6 months.  I do mine every
time the boat is out of the water...once a year.  Vaseline is fine.  You'll
need and inside guy and an outside guy.  Cycle, grease, cycle, grease

Unless you plan to step and unstep the mast regularly, I would take the
time now to inspect the mast step and torque the keel bolts.  This is also
a good time to inspect the mast collar for leaks and tighten/reseal the
fasteners if necessary.  My mast ground wire was undersized and in
deplorable condition.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Aug 17, 2020, 09:27 Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> We are planning to splash our 1990 C 34+ fall and need wisdom/advise
> from the group.  DejaVu has been on her trailer with mast down for the past
> 5 years and we haven?t given her any attention.  I am looking for comments
> & advise on ?what maintenance? we should compete prior to putting her back
> in the water. Things that I am planning to do include;
>
> Fairing keel/hull joint
> Hull was scraped down to fiberglass prior to trailer layup.  So bottom job
> for shur - barrier coat hull prior to bottom job???
> Inspect all rigging and masthead points & test lights/VHF antenna
> Max prop maintenance
> Replace exhaust elbow
> Polish diesel fuel - possible remove fuel entirely, install access ports
> and ?scrub fuel tank on inside???
> Change all filters & impeller
> Thru Hulls - these are all original 30 year old Marlon.   Is it time to
> replace these??
>
> Any help & advise is appreciated.  Other things we have missed?
>
> Stephen Thorne
> Deja Vu? C 34+
> Lake Lanier
> 770.722.2848
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 

--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 13:49:33 + (UTC)
From: cenel...@aol.com
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise
Message-ID: <1606300953.3105511.1597672173...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"



My only suggestion is to forget about polishing the fuel--lots of trouble for dubious benefit. I would empty the tank and manually clean (or possibly replace) depending on the condition.?
The original tank on my 1995 model developed a leak on a trip to CRW that was likely a result of it sitting in some bilge water on one edge of it that eventually gave way and leaked the fuel into the bilge--definitely not a fun event.
Since she is on the hard, now is the time to remove it (remove a few boards and it likely lifts out of the aft berth). With it out, you can take it to a local fabricator (one who builds custom grills, etc. ) and have them make a duplicate. That is the surest way to guarantee that all the new fittings end up where the old ones were plus they can add inspection ports, etc.
I had mine made that way in aluminum for < 5 boat bucks and installed for another boat buck.
Good luck with the upcoming 'splash'!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36 XL/kcb


-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 

--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 13:59:54 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

 

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com

Annapolis, MD 

(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)





On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
wrote:

My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
# mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to have 
it made and shipped.  Full payment up front

.  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  

Not so much fun this year..

Spencer Johnson 

84 LF38

Waukegan IL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30

[T Smyth via CnC-List]

Mine is located in the cockpit on the transom. 

> On Aug 16, 2020, at 5:05 PM, Daniel  wrote:
> 
>  Where is that plaque? I can’t find mine. No idea what hull number she is. 
> 1973 mk1.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Aug 16, 2020, at 17:20, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Thank you Tom!
>> 
>> Aaron
>> Admiral Maggie
>> 79 30-1
>> Annapolis, MD
>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of T Smyth via 
>> CnC-List 
>> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:10 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: T Smyth 
>> Subject: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C 30
>>  
>> 
>> Here is a link to an image of my plaque, C 30, 1974 (taken prior to a nice 
>> re-painting of the cockpit!):
>> 
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/KdcehGGebkX1qkRr7
>> 
>> Tom
>> C 30, MK1 (1974) #286 -0574
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
> # mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to 
> have it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
> .  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
> 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
> Not so much fun this year..
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Waukegan IL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
# mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to have 
it made and shipped.  Full payment up front.  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy 
coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
Not so much fun this year..Spencer Johnson 84 LF38Waukegan IL___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I recycled a Garhauer vang and a couple of wire/rope blocks into a split
backstay adjuster. Essentially no cost as they were take-offs from upgrades.
Been on there for about 20 years.

 

Gary

30-1 #593 which I presume came with the split backstay, but no adjuster.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 11:04 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

 

There is very little strain on that tackle with the split backstay and it
requires little effort to adjust.  I have a much lighter duty (much less
expensive) double blocks and line on mine and it works fine.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Aug 17, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Here's the backstay tensioner tackle:

https://telamontechnologies.com/epilogue/images/backstayTensioner.jpg


Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2 
adri...@telamontech.com  



 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Matthew via CnC-List]

FWIW, my mid-70s boat has separate hot and cold supply holes in both the galley 
and the head.  The supplies have ½” connections (as Bob stated), and in my case 
the holes are 4” apart.  I discovered this is an industry standard for 
non-marine faucets and ordered stainless steel replacements from a restaurant 
supply retailer. 

 

Matt Wolford

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 10:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

 

I think all faucets have 1/2-inch NPT connections, if this helps.

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com  

Annapolis, MD 

(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

There is very little strain on that tackle with the split backstay and it 
requires little effort to adjust.  I have a much lighter duty (much less 
expensive) double blocks and line on mine and it works fine.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 17, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here's the backstay tensioner tackle:
> 
> https://telamontechnologies.com/epilogue/images/backstayTensioner.jpg
> 
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> Epilogue, Rockport ME
> C 33-2 
> adri...@telamontech.com
> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

 Charlie thats really good advise.

On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 9:50 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> My only suggestion is to forget about polishing the fuel--lots of trouble
> for dubious benefit. I would empty the tank and manually clean (or possibly
> replace) depending on the condition.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The original tank on my 1995 model developed a leak on a trip to CRW that
> was likely a result of it sitting in some bilge water on one edge of it
> that eventually gave way and leaked the fuel into the bilge--definitely not
> a fun event.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Since she is on the hard, now is the time to remove it (remove a few
> boards and it likely lifts out of the aft berth). With it out, you can take
> it to a local fabricator (one who builds custom grills, etc. ) and have
> them make a duplicate. That is the surest way to guarantee that all the new
> fittings end up where the old ones were plus they can add inspection ports,
> etc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I had mine made that way in aluminum for < 5 boat bucks and installed for
> another boat buck.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Good luck with the upcoming 'splash'!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
>
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I think all faucets have 1/2-inch NPT connections, if this helps.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 9:22 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes, they are practically identical to that model. My concern with their 
> replacement is that they fit the existing 'hole' in the head and galley. 
> 
> Per some research on the web, this type of faucet appears to have a single 
> hole for the water lines which 
> I want to maintain. Just getting the old ones out will be a large PITA given 
> their locations and the relative lack of access to their connections under 
> the sinks--so I don't want the additional hassle of drilling extra holes. 
> 
> Quite frankly I am not sure I can remove either current faucet without 
> removing their respective sinks. Especially the one in the head, where the 
> sink sits just above the holding tank--yikes! Even the galley faucet will be 
> difficult since not only is it behind the sink, the space under the sink is 
> so narrow I don't think I can squeeze myself in to it to even reach the 
> fittings, even with a basin wrench.
> 
> If I have to remove the sinks, I am not even sure how to begin that job--and 
> may just give up on it!
> 
> Hence my dilemma!
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

[Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List]

Here's the backstay tensioner tackle:

https://telamontechnologies.com/epilogue/images/backstayTensioner.jpg


Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2 
adri...@telamontech.com




> On Aug 15, 2020, at 6:28 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wichard makes some nice gear, as in ratchet adjuster
> 
> https://marine.wichard.com/en/stainless-steel-hardware/rigging-adjusters/backstay-adjusters
> 
> I recall Harken made a few many years ago too.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> 
> 
> At 12:20 PM 8/15/2020, you wrote:
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>boundary="=_Part_2530921_609703134.1597519246996"
>> Content-Length: 2119
>> 
>> Raced on a friend's old Morgan 30 (the big heavy one, not the classic 300) 
>> and we just used the wheel, setting it up before the race. Sometimes we had 
>> a rail guy take off on the downwind leg and then tighten it up again before 
>> the beat.
>> For cruising, it really wouldn't matter about timeliness.
>> Another boat, a SJ 28, had rachet lever where the wheel would be. It could 
>> be switched to go forward or reverse obviously. That went just about as fast 
>> as the hydraulics. Don't know where one could find a rachet like that.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Charlie…you and I both (1981 40-2).   Did the galley faucet replacement and was 
not so bad.  Head?  Ooof.

David F. Risch
Managing Director
Great Benefits USA
401-419-4650 - Direct Line
[https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download=1iPWGeVIdWdypHSMZPtJX0mxirxyZ4ZBN=0B9uSW32EcB8tZGxlWW1OMlJ6MXU0bmVaaFByQmlSVDMrOWNVPQ]
www.greatbenefitsusa.com

The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient 
specified in message only. It is strictly forbidden to share any part of this 
message with any third party, without a written consent of the sender. If you 
received this message by mistake, please reply to this message and follow with 
its deletion, so that we can ensure such a mistake does not occur in the future.
Great Benefits USA puts the security of the client at a high priority. 
Therefore, we have put efforts into ensuring that the message is error and 
virus-free. Unfortunately, full security of the email cannot be ensured as, 
despite our efforts, the data included in emails could be infected, 
intercepted, or corrupted. Therefore, the recipient should check the email for 
threats with proper software, as the sender does not accept liability for any 
damage inflicted by viewing the content of this email.


From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 9:21 AM
To: kenhea...@gmail.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

Yes, they are practically identical to that model. My concern with their 
replacement is that they fit the existing 'hole' in the head and galley.

Per some research on the web, this type of faucet appears to have a single hole 
for the water lines which
I want to maintain. Just getting the old ones out will be a large PITA given 
their locations and the relative lack of access to their connections under the 
sinks--so I don't want the additional hassle of drilling extra holes.

Quite frankly I am not sure I can remove either current faucet without removing 
their respective sinks. Especially the one in the head, where the sink sits 
just above the holding tank--yikes! Even the galley faucet will be difficult 
since not only is it behind the sink, the space under the sink is so narrow I 
don't think I can squeeze myself in to it to even reach the fittings, even with 
a basin wrench.

If I have to remove the sinks, I am not even sure how to begin that job--and 
may just give up on it!

Hence my dilemma!

Charlie Nelson


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My only suggestion is to forget about polishing the fuel--lots of trouble for 
dubious benefit. I would empty the tank and manually clean (or possibly 
replace) depending on the condition. 
The original tank on my 1995 model developed a leak on a trip to CRW that was 
likely a result of it sitting in some bilge water on one edge of it that 
eventually gave way and leaked the fuel into the bilge--definitely not a fun 
event.
Since she is on the hard, now is the time to remove it (remove a few boards and 
it likely lifts out of the aft berth). With it out, you can take it to a local 
fabricator (one who builds custom grills, etc. ) and have them make a 
duplicate. That is the surest way to guarantee that all the new fittings end up 
where the old ones were plus they can add inspection ports, etc.
I had mine made that way in aluminum for < 5 boat bucks and installed for 
another boat buck.
Good luck with the upcoming 'splash'!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36 XL/kcb


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Recommissioning Advise

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The Marlon thru hulls should be fine indefinitely.  Attempting to replace
them is just asking for trouble.  Leave well enough alone.

Now greasing the Marlon through hulls?  That's a completely different
story.  The manufacturer recommends grease every 6 months.  I do mine every
time the boat is out of the water...once a year.  Vaseline is fine.  You'll
need and inside guy and an outside guy.  Cycle, grease, cycle, grease

Unless you plan to step and unstep the mast regularly, I would take the
time now to inspect the mast step and torque the keel bolts.  This is also
a good time to inspect the mast collar for leaks and tighten/reseal the
fasteners if necessary.  My mast ground wire was undersized and in
deplorable condition.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Aug 17, 2020, 09:27 Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> We are planning to splash our 1990 C 34+ fall and need wisdom/advise
> from the group.  DejaVu has been on her trailer with mast down for the past
> 5 years and we haven’t given her any attention.  I am looking for comments
> & advise on “what maintenance” we should compete prior to putting her back
> in the water. Things that I am planning to do include;
>
> Fairing keel/hull joint
> Hull was scraped down to fiberglass prior to trailer layup.  So bottom job
> for shur - barrier coat hull prior to bottom job???
> Inspect all rigging and masthead points & test lights/VHF antenna
> Max prop maintenance
> Replace exhaust elbow
> Polish diesel fuel - possible remove fuel entirely, install access ports
> and “scrub fuel tank on inside”??
> Change all filters & impeller
> Thru Hulls - these are all original 30 year old Marlon.   Is it time to
> replace these??
>
> Any help & advise is appreciated.  Other things we have missed?
>
> Stephen Thorne
> Deja Vu’ C 34+
> Lake Lanier
> 770.722.2848
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Recommissioning Advise

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

We are planning to splash our 1990 C 34+ fall and need wisdom/advise from
the group.  DejaVu has been on her trailer with mast down for the past 5
years and we haven’t given her any attention.  I am looking for comments &
advise on “what maintenance” we should compete prior to putting her back in
the water. Things that I am planning to do include;

Fairing keel/hull joint
Hull was scraped down to fiberglass prior to trailer layup.  So bottom job
for shur - barrier coat hull prior to bottom job???
Inspect all rigging and masthead points & test lights/VHF antenna
Max prop maintenance
Replace exhaust elbow
Polish diesel fuel - possible remove fuel entirely, install access ports
and “scrub fuel tank on inside”??
Change all filters & impeller
Thru Hulls - these are all original 30 year old Marlon.   Is it time to
replace these??

Any help & advise is appreciated.  Other things we have missed?

Stephen Thorne
Deja Vu’ C 34+
Lake Lanier
770.722.2848
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Yes, they are practically identical to that model. My concern with their 
replacement is that they fit the existing 'hole' in the head and galley. 
Per some research on the web, this type of faucet appears to have a single hole 
for the water lines which I want to maintain. Just getting the old ones out 
will be a large PITA given their locations and the relative lack of access to 
their connections under the sinks--so I don't want the additional hassle of 
drilling extra holes. 

Quite frankly I am not sure I can remove either current faucet without removing 
their respective sinks. Especially the one in the head, where the sink sits 
just above the holding tank--yikes! Even the galley faucet will be difficult 
since not only is it behind the sink, the space under the sink is so narrow I 
don't think I can squeeze myself in to it to even reach the fittings, even with 
a basin wrench.
If I have to remove the sinks, I am not even sure how to begin that job--and 
may just give up on it!
Hence my dilemma!
Charlie Nelson




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Are your existing faucets like one of these on this page:
https://scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products_detail=140

Ken H.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2020 at 20:14, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 1995 36 has ‘triangular’ faucets for the galley and head sinks. These
> have the faucet handles joining the spigot at about a 45 degree angle.
>
> I’d like to replace them in plastic as they are showing their 25 year age
> with pitting, fading etc.
>
> I am reluctant to buy anything but a ‘triangular’ replacement since the
> supply connections may not ‘mate’ properly. Is my concern valid?
>
> I would prefer something in white plastic but am hesitant to buy anything
> if it won’t work—especially since removing/installing these faucets will
> not be easy given their locations.
>
> OTOH, I am hesitate to attempt to remove my faucets just to check whether
> they have ‘standard’ connections (or not!).
>
> Advice from the list would be appreciated before I ‘commit’ to this
> project.
>
> TIA,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Sunday, August 16, 2020, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray