Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Wow Dennis, she looks fantastic!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 5:33 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> To this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week, 
> weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!
> 
> The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was severely damaged during the 
> storm and must be rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to my other 
> slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It also means there is no place to dock 
> Touche' after splashing in order to provision it for the trip.  Since the now 
> condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they have been very accommodating 
> since Touche' was a long term tenant.  I scheduled the last slot for their 
> work week for splash next Friday.  Since the haul out bay will not be needed 
> until Monday morning, the shipyard is allowing me to keep the boat in the 
> haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll provision it and depart Saturday.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water separator

[Rick Brass]

Racor actually sells a kit that is designed to polish your fuel with an 
arrangement like this. IIRC, the pump is electric and runs for a period after 
the engine shuts down, with the fuel pulled through the filter and delivered 
back to the tank through a fuel return line.

 

Seems like overkill for our small engines and low annual usage. But might make 
sense in larger boats, ones with more operating hours, or in areas with dubious 
fuel supplies.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2020 3:17 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water separator

 

FYI  - You can always add an electric pump after the Racor and before the 
engine that feeds back to the tank. You can turn it on to suck fuel through the 
filter after changing it to prime it and also just leave it go to clean a tank 
of fuel. 

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: Rick Brass [mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2020 1:27 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: water separator

 

I was about to comment that the Racor diesel fuel filter I installed on Imzadi 
about 16 years ago had a priming pump in the filter head. I understood that the 
filter head without a priming pump was primarily used for a water filter for 
gasoline engines (mostly outboards).

 

I use the smallest Racor filter on Imzadi, which is designed for 15 or 20 GPH 
of fuel flow IIRC. That’s about 10 times the flow rate for my 4 cylinder M35B 
(about 1.5 GPH including the fuel returned to the tank). So I have elected to 
not replace the Racor at 500 engine hours, based on the logic that 500 hours at 
15 GPH is equivalent to 7500 hours of operation for my small diesel. I replaced 
the secondary 10 micron filter on the engine once, mostly on GPs since I use a 
10 micron Racor instead of the 30 micron that most sources recommend for a 
primary filter. (if I had a Mitsubishi diesel, or another that used a 3 micron 
secondary filter, I WOULD replace it annually.)

 

In 16 years (about 1400 engine hours) I’ve replaced a clogged Racor filter 3 
times (each time within about 40 miles of taking on bad fuel). It is kind of a 
PITA to change the filter and reprime when I take on bad fuel, but it happens 
so seldom that I find that method preferable to changing the filter every year 
when I change the engine oil filter. When I go full time cruising, I’ll 
probably be changing the Racor as part of the periodic maintenance every year.

 

Anyway, that was a long and wandering way to get to the message that the 
priming pump on my Racor has not had a problem in 16 tears of recreational use 
of the boat.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Doug Mountjoy]

Repairs look great. Have q safe trip back to you're home slip..Doug Mountjoysv 
Rebecca Leah C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
 Original message From: "Dennis C."  Date: 
10/16/20  16:33  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist  Subject: 
Stus-List Touche' hurricane repair progress The repairs to Touche' from 
Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From 
this:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharingTo
 
this:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharingRepairs
 and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week, 

 weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!The sad part is Touche's pier 
in Pensacola was severely damaged during the storm and must be rebuilt.  I will 
have to bring Touche' back to my other slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It 
also means there is no place to dock Touche' after splashing in order to 
provision it for the trip.  Since the now condemned pier was at the same 
shipyard, they have been very accommodating since Touche' was a long term 
tenant.  I scheduled the last slot for their work week for splash next Friday.  
Since the haul out bay will not be needed until Monday morning, the shipyard is 
allowing me to keep the boat in the haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll 
provision it and depart Saturday.-- Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Ken Heaton]

Looks great Dennis!

Ken  H.

On Fri, 16 Oct 2020 at 20:34, Dennis C.  wrote:

> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Marek Dziedzic]

Good to hear that the repairs proceeded well. Good luck on your way back home.

Marek

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Matthew Schlanger]

Nice.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 7:34 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> 
> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing
> 
> To this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing
> 
> Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week, 
> weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!
> 
> The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was severely damaged during the 
> storm and must be rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to my other 
> slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It also means there is no place to dock 
> Touche' after splashing in order to provision it for the trip.  Since the now 
> condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they have been very accommodating 
> since Touche' was a long term tenant.  I scheduled the last slot for their 
> work week for splash next Friday.  Since the haul out bay will not be needed 
> until Monday morning, the shipyard is allowing me to keep the boat in the 
> haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll provision it and depart Saturday.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Richard via CnC-List]

Dennis; do a video of your trip and post it on you tube!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 7:52 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:
> 
>  She look so pretty...great job!
> 
> At 04:33 PM 10/16/2020, you wrote:
>> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From 
>> this:
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> 
>> To this:
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> 
>> Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week, 
>> weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!
>> 
>> The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was severely damaged during the 
>> storm and must be rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to my other 
>> slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It also means there is no place to 
>> dock Touche' after splashing in order to provision it for the trip.  Since 
>> the now condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they have been very 
>> accommodating since Touche' was a long term tenant.  I scheduled the last 
>> slot for their work week for splash next Friday.  Since the haul out bay 
>> will not be needed until Monday morning, the shipyard is allowing me to keep 
>> the boat in the haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll provision it and 
>> depart Saturday.
>> 
>> -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com 
> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Tom Buscaglia]

She look so pretty...great job!

At 04:33 PM 10/16/2020, you wrote:

The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing

To this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing

Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete 
by the end of next week, weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!


The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was 
severely damaged during the storm and must be 
rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to 
my other slip in Louisiana for a few 
months.  It also means there is no place to 
dock Touche' after splashing in order to 
provision it for the trip.  Since the now 
condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they 
have been very accommodating since Touche' was a 
long term tenant.  I scheduled the last slot 
for their work week for splash next 
Friday.  Since the haul out bay will not be 
needed until Monday morning, the shipyard is 
allowing me to keep the boat in the haul out bay 
for the weekend.  We'll provision it and depart Saturday.


--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
October is the time to show your appreciation 
with a small contribution to this list to help 
offset the costs. If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Dennis C.]

The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From
this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing

To this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing

Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week,
weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!

The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was severely damaged during the
storm and must be rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to my other
slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It also means there is no place to
dock Touche' after splashing in order to provision it for the trip.  Since
the now condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they have been very
accommodating since Touche' was a long term tenant.  I scheduled the last
slot for their work week for splash next Friday.  Since the haul out bay
will not be needed until Monday morning, the shipyard is allowing me to
keep the boat in the haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll provision it and
depart Saturday.

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine oil drain hose

[dwight veinot]

Your oil won’t kill your engine. Lack of use might

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 4:04 PM Len Mitchell  wrote:

> I also have an M30 with the same hose set up and the same engine angle. If
> I use that hose I can only remove 3 quarts of oil. The drain hose is on the
> high side of the oil pan!  If I use the oil fill and a fluid vacuum I can
> get 4 quarts out. Either way it never gets completely drained. I change the
> oil every fall and seldom use a full tank of fuel in a season.
> If nothing else I would like to be able to monitor the base level of my
> oil before it becomes acidic so I don’t recycle the oil years too soon. It
> just seems like a waste but changing often is better than not changing oil
> at all.
>
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine oil drain hose

[dwight veinot]

I got the exact same engine and i use a drill pump attached to that
flexible bottom drain to extract the used oil after it has got to operating
temp.

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 3:46 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> FYI,  My Universal M4-30 diesel has an oil drain hose attached to the pan
> bottom with a brass end fitting with a threaded plug in the free end.  The
> brass plug has a hole drilled through the square part that can be tie
> wrapped to secure it safely.  I typically run the engine till warm and then
> connect a hand pump to this hose and suck the oil from the sump.  It works
> very well and I thought it was OEM.
>
> At home, I've added a short length of fuel rated hose to my rider mower
> for the same convenience when draining the oil clear of the frame.  I plug
> the end and tie wrap it to the frame.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Wasn't there a 43 named Esta Es (or something like that) on Lake Michigan? Or 
was it a 44?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

On Thursday, October 15, 2020, 02:32:14 PM CDT, Robert Mazza 
 wrote:


David, 

Don't remember their original names, do you? 

Rob

On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 3:25 PM David Risch  wrote:
Rob,

 

Incredibly we had 2 43’s in Marion at the same time.  “X Dimension” owned by 
Dave Collins and Chip John’s boat (name escapes me right now).

 

  October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine oil drain hose

[David Knecht]

I wondered as well.  Since I have the same drain hose and plug on my M4-30 I 
guess this was OEM.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 16, 2020, at 2:45 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER  wrote:
> 
> FYI,  My Universal M4-30 diesel has an oil drain hose attached to the pan 
> bottom with a brass end fitting with a threaded plug in the free end.  The 
> brass plug has a hole drilled through the square part that can be tie wrapped 
> to secure it safely.  I typically run the engine till warm and then connect a 
> hand pump to this hose and suck the oil from the sump.  It works very well 
> and I thought it was OEM.
> 
> At home, I've added a short length of fuel rated hose to my rider mower for 
> the same convenience when draining the oil clear of the frame.  I plug the 
> end and tie wrap it to the frame. 
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine oil drain hose

[David Risch]

When I did an upper end rebuild I dropped the oil pan on my 3 QM 30.   I always 
assumed there was oil left in the pan after pumping it out via dipstick.  Maybe 
a tablespoon left.  I was impressed.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: Len Mitchell 
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 3:04:26 PM
To: CNC List 
Subject: Stus-List Engine oil drain hose

I also have an M30 with the same hose set up and the same engine angle. If I 
use that hose I can only remove 3 quarts of oil. The drain hose is on the high 
side of the oil pan!  If I use the oil fill and a fluid vacuum I can get 4 
quarts out. Either way it never gets completely drained. I change the oil every 
fall and seldom use a full tank of fuel in a season.
If nothing else I would like to be able to monitor the base level of my oil 
before it becomes acidic so I don’t recycle the oil years too soon. It just 
seems like a waste but changing often is better than not changing oil at all.

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.

Sent from my mobile device.
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Engine oil drain hose

[Len Mitchell]

I also have an M30 with the same hose set up and the same engine angle. If I 
use that hose I can only remove 3 quarts of oil. The drain hose is on the high 
side of the oil pan!  If I use the oil fill and a fluid vacuum I can get 4 
quarts out. Either way it never gets completely drained. I change the oil every 
fall and seldom use a full tank of fuel in a season. 
If nothing else I would like to be able to monitor the base level of my oil 
before it becomes acidic so I don’t recycle the oil years too soon. It just 
seems like a waste but changing often is better than not changing oil at all. 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Engine oil drain hose

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

FYI,  My Universal M4-30 diesel has an oil drain hose attached to the pan 
bottom with a brass end fitting with a threaded plug in the free end.  The 
brass plug has a hole drilled through the square part that can be tie wrapped 
to secure it safely.  I typically run the engine till warm and then connect a 
hand pump to this hose and suck the oil from the sump.  It works very well and 
I thought it was OEM.

At home, I've added a short length of fuel rated hose to my rider mower for the 
same convenience when draining the oil clear of the frame.  I plug the end and 
tie wrap it to the frame.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena MdOctober is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[jarel]

Yeah…what he said!


JP 

 

From: dwight veinot  
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 10:45 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

 

Hi Chuck,  I spent many years of my career supervising and develop[ing 
laboratory oil analysis techniques for the Canadian Navy. To answer your 
specific question; samples should be collected just after shut down, while the 
oil is warm and well mixed. There are many things to consider when using 
laboratory oil analysis to predict state of wear or time until failure. First 
of all, most normal wear particles are small, typically less than 1 micrometer 
in major dimension and appear as flat platelets.  Even particles that small 
escape detection by many spectroscopic oil analysis techniques. Particles 
indicative of abnormal wear are generally larger than 1 micrometer in major 
dimension and have irregular shapes such as cutting wear particles which can 
resemble machine chips. The quantity, size, shape and chemical composition of 
these particles found in the oil or on the filter element can be very helpful 
in assessing internal condition. Since most of these larger abnormal wear 
particles escape detection by the spectroscopic techniques used for oil 
analysis, examination of particles found on filter elements and mag plugs can 
be very useful indicators but often tell the story after it is already too late 
to avoid failure. Any spectroscopic analysis relies on trending so one sample 
actually tells very little. what the analyst looks for is an increase in any 
metal content (eg. iron, chromium, nickel, etc) as a function of operating 
hours since the last oil change.  So if you change your oil every fall for 
example and sample that oil only once during the oil use cycle that will defeat 
any trending analysis. So since most of us change the oil and filter in our 
rather small marine engines it is doubtful in my mind whether wear metal 
analysis is at all a useful indicator.  I will suggest, however, that filter 
debris analysis is a worthwhile effort and examination of debris found on 
magnetic plugs if you are lucky enough to have one would also be useful.  I 
will note that water contamination of the oil is an issue but save for a 
coolant leak I don't see that being a significant issue. I also believe that 
the additive packages in oils that meet minimum API or SAE specs are very 
robust and consequently it is very unlikely that your oil will become acidic 
during the normal use period. I will note also that as long as wear particle 
size and asperities caused by surface roughness are smaller than the  
hydrodynamic film thickness of the oil between moving parts that your system 
will not experience significant wear.  So fine filtration helps and any oil 
that meets minimum specs is good. Happy sailing

Dwight Veinot

C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

 

 

 

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 9:36 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> > wrote:

Oil Testing 

 

Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to 
capture the metals there? 

 

Chuck S 

On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM ja...@jpiworldwide.com   
wrote: 

 

 

Hi All,

 

In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft 
engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or 
aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours is a 
common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis would 
come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety of things… 
the most important thing to the owners and operators of the equipment was the 
metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus tend to  wea) parts of 
the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. By analyzing the metallic 
content really good analysts could determine exactly  what part inside the 
engine was breaking down… but usually they were just looking for the aggregate 
amount of metal shavings/dust/chips etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny 
little bit of metal in the oil (especially on high-hour engines), but over a 
certain level or amount of metal , the managers of the equipment would be 
concerned and sometimes even take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear 
the engine down and rebuild it or replace it. 

 

Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the 
combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. All 
of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, most tests 
will come back with some small amount of each depending on how infinite or 
precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was “dirt” or grit, sand, 
silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, bad fuel filler spout, bad 
fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing or hosing. If the sample had 
coolant in it, then 

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[dwight veinot]

Hi Chuck,  I spent many years of my career supervising and
develop[ing laboratory oil analysis techniques for the Canadian Navy. To
answer your specific question; samples should be collected just after shut
down, while the oil is warm and well mixed. There are many things to
consider when using laboratory oil analysis to predict state of wear or
time until failure. First of all, most normal wear particles are small,
typically less than 1 micrometer in major dimension and appear as flat
platelets.  Even particles that small escape detection by many
spectroscopic oil analysis techniques. Particles indicative of
abnormal wear are generally larger than 1 micrometer in major dimension and
have irregular shapes such as cutting wear particles which can resemble
machine chips. The quantity, size, shape and chemical composition of these
particles found in the oil or on the filter element can be very helpful in
assessing internal condition. Since most of these larger abnormal wear
particles escape detection by the spectroscopic techniques used for oil
analysis, examination of particles found on filter elements and mag plugs
can be very useful indicators but often tell the story after it is already
too late to avoid failure. Any spectroscopic analysis relies on trending so
one sample actually tells very little. what the analyst looks for is an
increase in any metal content (eg. iron, chromium, nickel, etc) as a
function of operating hours since the last oil change.  So if you change
your oil every fall for example and sample that oil only once during the
oil use cycle that will defeat any trending analysis. So since most of us
change the oil and filter in our rather small marine engines it is doubtful
in my mind whether wear metal analysis is at all a useful indicator.  I
will suggest, however, that filter debris analysis is a worthwhile effort
and examination of debris found on magnetic plugs if you are lucky enough
to have one would also be useful.  I will note that water contamination of
the oil is an issue but save for a coolant leak I don't see that being a
significant issue. I also believe that the additive packages in oils that
meet minimum API or SAE specs are very robust and consequently it is very
unlikely that your oil will become acidic during the normal use period. I
will note also that as long as wear particle size and asperities caused by
surface roughness are smaller than the  hydrodynamic film thickness of the
oil between moving parts that your system will not experience significant
wear.  So fine filtration helps and any oil that meets minimum specs is
good. Happy sailing
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 9:36 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Oil Testing
>
> Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to
> capture the metals there?
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft
> engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or
> aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours
> is a common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis
> would come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety
> of things… the most important thing to the owners and operators of the
> equipment was the metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus
> tend to  wea) parts of the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil.
> By analyzing the metallic content really good analysts could determine
> exactly  what part inside the engine was breaking down… but usually they
> were just looking for the aggregate amount of metal shavings/dust/chips
> etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny little bit of metal in the oil
> (especially on high-hour engines), but over a certain level or amount of
> metal , the managers of the equipment would be concerned and sometimes even
> take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear the engine down and
> rebuild it or replace it.
>
>
>
> Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the
> combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica.
> All of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again,
> most tests will come back with some small amount of each depending on how
> infinite or precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was
> “dirt” or grit, sand, silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel,
> bad fuel filler spout, bad fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing
> or hosing. If the sample had coolant in it, then they might look at the
> cylinder heads, or if there was soot, valves or rings may be the problem…
> all kinds of things can be divined from the oil sample if read by a
> knowledgeable person.
>
>
>
> Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[David Risch]

Heated agreement with Andrew.   In short…they s_ck.

From: Andrew Burton 
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 11:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: I'm Bck!

I looked a car with a VW Diesel engine and bought it because the engine is so 
good. But it is not the same as the Pathfinder diesel. I have delivered and 
worked on several boats with Pathfinders and developed a real dislike for them. 
To the point where if I had a boat with one I’d be repowering as soon as I 
could.
Talk to marine mechanics about them. I doubt you'll get many positive reviews.
Andy
Baltic 47 Masquerade
Currently waiting for weather in Atlantic City.

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Oct 16, 2020, at 09:40, Robert Abbott 
mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> wrote:
jarel

No experience with the marinized VW engine ...From the site I have attached, it 
says "

§  Timing Belt – this is rubber and although no problem on the shoreside 
engines, the marine engine belts seem to deteriorate quiet quickly and snap.

https://www.brighthubengineering.com/marine-engines-machinery/105910-design-operation-and-overhaul-of-pathfinder-marine-engine/

As I mentioned, a club member has/had a VW marinized engine (not sure of 
HP)he did not realize it had a timing belt and it broke and destroyed the 
engine.  He had to repower.

FYI

Rob Abbott

AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 10/15/2020 6:33 PM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com 
wrote:
Thanks! It is a Pathfinder Marine 50 Diesel

JP

From: Robert Abbott 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 2:20 PM
To: Stus-List ; 
ja...@jpiworldwide.com
Subject: Stus-List I'm Bck!

jarel.

Ensure your engine is a Volkswagen Pathfinder marine diesel 50 hp and if the 
engine has a 'timing belt'.some VW diesels have a timing belt and when it 
breaks, so does the engine.

 A club member here just experienced it this season.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
On 10/15/2020 11:21 AM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com 
wrote:


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[Robert Mazza]

Hi Andrew,

Yes, *Buzzy* Schofield.  I had forgotten, but knew "Albert" was far too
formal.

Rob

On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 9:02 PM Andrew Burton 
wrote:

> Thanks, Rob. I didn't realize Buzzy Schofield hadn't commissioned Arieto.
> I sailed with both him and Russell on their nearly identical Frers 46s
> called Arieto and Destination. They were very close friends and their boat
> captains were brothers!
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[Andrew Burton]

I looked a car with a VW Diesel engine and bought it because the engine is so 
good. But it is not the same as the Pathfinder diesel. I have delivered and 
worked on several boats with Pathfinders and developed a real dislike for them. 
To the point where if I had a boat with one I’d be repowering as soon as I 
could.
Talk to marine mechanics about them. I doubt you'll get many positive reviews.
Andy
Baltic 47 Masquerade
Currently waiting for weather in Atlantic City.


Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 09:40, Robert Abbott  wrote:
> 
> jarel
> 
> No experience with the marinized VW engine ...From the site I have attached, 
> it says "
> Timing Belt – this is rubber and although no problem on the shoreside 
> engines, the marine engine belts seem to deteriorate quiet quickly and snap.
> https://www.brighthubengineering.com/marine-engines-machinery/105910-design-operation-and-overhaul-of-pathfinder-marine-engine/
> 
> As I mentioned, a club member has/had a VW marinized engine (not sure of 
> HP)he did not realize it had a timing belt and it broke and destroyed the 
> engine.  He had to repower.
> 
> FYI
> 
> Rob Abbott
> 
> AZURA
> 
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
>> On 10/15/2020 6:33 PM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:
>> Thanks! It is a Pathfinder Marine 50 Diesel
>> 
>> JP
>>  
>> From: Robert Abbott  
>> Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 2:20 PM
>> To: Stus-List ; ja...@jpiworldwide.com
>> Subject: Stus-List I'm Bck!
>>  
>> jarel.
>> 
>> Ensure your engine is a Volkswagen Pathfinder marine diesel 50 hp and if the 
>> engine has a 'timing belt'.some VW diesels have a timing belt and when 
>> it breaks, so does the engine.
>> 
>>  A club member here just experienced it this season. 
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> On 10/15/2020 11:21 AM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:
>> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[Josh Muckley]

I will say that I think the plastic tube melted not because of the hot oil
but rather because of the hot exhaust manifold that ran nearby.  On my
Yanmar there is no dipstick tube just a hole that goes directly into the
block... And no where near the exhaust.  Never had a problem on that engine.

Josh

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020, 10:10 Marek Dziedzic  wrote:

> As I mentioned before (last year), I can relate to the oil suction tube
> melting inside the dip stick tube (I have the t-shirt). Now I am using a
> metal tube (it came with Pela pump) and waiting for the engine to cool off
> enough. The process takes longer, but you can skip removing the dip stick
> tube, which is an interesting process by itself (access to the bolts is
> somewhat restricted).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley 
> *Sent: *Friday, October 16, 2020 09:47
> *To: *Stus-List 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing
>
>
>
> In my case I have to use a vacuum pump to change the oil.  I suck it out
> with a dip tube in the dipstick hole.  So for sampling it is the same
> process with a different sucker pump designed for sucking the sample into a
> sample bottle.
>
>
>
> On my Grand Prix the dipstick tube was too long and narrow.  The first
> time I tried to suck a sample from the hot engine I melted the sample tube
> inside the dipstick tube.  Oops.  Recovery involved unbolting and removing
> the dipstick tube from the engine and using a coat hanger to push out the
> cooled plug of plastic.  After that I had to pull the drain plug and then
> slip a sample bottle into the stream.  Much messier.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[Marek Dziedzic]

As I mentioned before (last year), I can relate to the oil suction tube melting 
inside the dip stick tube (I have the t-shirt). Now I am using a metal tube (it 
came with Pela pump) and waiting for the engine to cool off enough. The process 
takes longer, but you can skip removing the dip stick tube, which is an 
interesting process by itself (access to the bolts is somewhat restricted).

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Josh Muckley
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 09:47
To: Stus-List
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

In my case I have to use a vacuum pump to change the oil.  I suck it out with a 
dip tube in the dipstick hole.  So for sampling it is the same process with a 
different sucker pump designed for sucking the sample into a sample bottle.

On my Grand Prix the dipstick tube was too long and narrow.  The first time I 
tried to suck a sample from the hot engine I melted the sample tube inside the 
dipstick tube.  Oops.  Recovery involved unbolting and removing the dipstick 
tube from the engine and using a coat hanger to push out the cooled plug of 
plastic.  After that I had to pull the drain plug and then slip a sample bottle 
into the stream.  Much messier.

Josh

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[jarel]

Thanks much

 

JP

 

From: Robert Abbott  
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 6:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List I'm Bck!

 

jarel

No experience with the marinized VW engine ...From the site I have attached,
it says "



*  Timing Belt - this is rubber and although no problem on the shoreside
engines, the marine engine belts seem to deteriorate quiet quickly and snap.

https://www.brighthubengineering.com/marine-engines-machinery/105910-design-
operation-and-overhaul-of-pathfinder-marine-engine/

As I mentioned, a club member has/had a VW marinized engine (not sure of
HP)he did not realize it had a timing belt and it broke and destroyed
the engine.  He had to repower.

FYI

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 10/15/2020 6:33 PM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com
  wrote:

Thanks! It is a Pathfinder Marine 50 Diesel


JP

 

From: Robert Abbott  
 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 2:20 PM
To: Stus-List   ;
ja...@jpiworldwide.com  
Subject: Stus-List I'm Bck!

 

jarel.

Ensure your engine is a Volkswagen Pathfinder marine diesel 50 hp and if the
engine has a 'timing belt'.some VW diesels have a timing belt and when
it breaks, so does the engine.

 A club member here just experienced it this season. 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 10/15/2020 11:21 AM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com
  wrote:

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[Josh Muckley]

Sorry I assumed we were all talking about sampling our little engines.  And
also assumed that everyone was stuck just sucking the oil out since the
hull is too close to the pan.  The best way to sample is from a sample port
while the engine is running.  There are remote filter mounting options that
have sample ports built in.

In my case I have to use a vacuum pump to change the oil.  I suck it out
with a dip tube in the dipstick hole.  So for sampling it is the same
process with a different sucker pump designed for sucking the sample into a
sample bottle.

On my Grand Prix the dipstick tube was too long and narrow.  The first time
I tried to suck a sample from the hot engine I melted the sample tube
inside the dipstick tube.  Oops.  Recovery involved unbolting and removing
the dipstick tube from the engine and using a coat hanger to push out the
cooled plug of plastic.  After that I had to pull the drain plug and then
slip a sample bottle into the stream.  Much messier.

Josh

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020, 08:37 CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Oil Testing
>
> Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to
> capture the metals there?
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft
> engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or
> aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours
> is a common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis
> would come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety
> of things… the most important thing to the owners and operators of the
> equipment was the metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus
> tend to  wea) parts of the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil.
> By analyzing the metallic content really good analysts could determine
> exactly  what part inside the engine was breaking down… but usually they
> were just looking for the aggregate amount of metal shavings/dust/chips
> etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny little bit of metal in the oil
> (especially on high-hour engines), but over a certain level or amount of
> metal , the managers of the equipment would be concerned and sometimes even
> take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear the engine down and
> rebuild it or replace it.
>
>
>
> Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the
> combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica.
> All of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again,
> most tests will come back with some small amount of each depending on how
> infinite or precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was
> “dirt” or grit, sand, silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel,
> bad fuel filler spout, bad fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing
> or hosing. If the sample had coolant in it, then they might look at the
> cylinder heads, or if there was soot, valves or rings may be the problem…
> all kinds of things can be divined from the oil sample if read by a
> knowledgeable person.
>
>
>
> Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 
>
>
>
> JP
>
>
>
> *From:* Tom Buscaglia 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 15, 2020 5:23 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Engine Hours
>
>
> I never knew about the oil testing.  Just ordered a test kit...thanks!
>
> Tom B
>
> At 03:26 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
>
> This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. We just
> recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former owner
> left extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are the
> results from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going back 6
> years. I’m starting to try and educate myself on this and will continue
> to do the sampling which comes up this November. My initial take is that it
> is important for spotting engine wear/maintenance trends.
>
> Thanks to listers for all the insights.
>
> Regards,
> Dave
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>
>
> On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> I sample my oil and sent for analysis.  Costs $20 but the knowledge of
> whether or not the oil is good as well as what else could be wrong with the
> engine is invaluable.  For anyone who cares about the environmental
> impacts, not changing the oil is better for the environment too.  I use an
> over-sized oil filter and the very best amsoil marine diesel engine oil.
> This particular oil has a high TBN of 12.  IIRC, TBN stand for total base
> number, you know base... The opposite of acid.  As acids build up in the
> oil the TBN goes down.  If the person doing the analysis sees that the
> trend suggests the TBN (or any of the oil specs) will be too close to zero
> before the next oil change, they modify their recommendations.
>
>
> 

Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Here is a very simple way to prevent early engine death – Check the oil 
frequently and especially after the boat sits. If the level starts going UP do 
not start the engine! There is water in the sump lifting the oil. I had a ski 
boat that would gain a few quarts of water sitting for a week and we put a pan 
under the engine and drained the water out before we started it. Running it 
makes an oatmeal mush that does not really lubricate and wrecks the engine.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com




October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List I'm Baaaack!

[Robert Abbott]

jarel

No experience with the marinized VW engine ...From the site I have 
attached, it says "


 * Timing Belt – this is rubber and although no problem on the
   shoreside engines, the marine engine belts seem to deteriorate quiet
   quickly and snap.

https://www.brighthubengineering.com/marine-engines-machinery/105910-design-operation-and-overhaul-of-pathfinder-marine-engine/

As I mentioned, a club member has/had a VW marinized engine (not sure of 
HP)he did not realize it had a timing belt and it broke and 
destroyed the engine.  He had to repower.


FYI

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 10/15/2020 6:33 PM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:


Thanks! It is a Pathfinder Marine 50 Diesel


JP

*From:*Robert Abbott 
*Sent:* Thursday, October 15, 2020 2:20 PM
*To:* Stus-List ; ja...@jpiworldwide.com
*Subject:* Stus-List I'm Bck!

jarel.

Ensure your engine is a Volkswagen Pathfinder marine diesel 50 hp and 
if the engine has a 'timing belt'.some VW diesels have a timing 
belt and when it breaks, so does the engine.


 A club member here just experienced it this season.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 10/15/2020 11:21 AM, ja...@jpiworldwide.com 
 wrote:





October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[Chuck Borge]

X-Dimension was won by lottery by a fella on the north shore. 
I ran into him in Beverly while I was prepping my new-to-me 41. 
MIT gave the boat away by lottery, as it was in need of substantial refit work 
per their survey. 
I chose not to enter, but I understand only a handful did. 
I looked like someone with time, space and a little (maybe a lot) cash could do 
wonders with that boat. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 8:07 AM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> 
> No but X Dimension was red…can find out easily enough.
>  
> From: Robert Mazza  
> Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 3:32 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: I'm Bck!
>  
> David, 
>  
> Don't remember their original names, do you? 
>  
> Rob
>  
> On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 3:25 PM David Risch  wrote:
> Rob,
>  
> Incredibly we had 2 43’s in Marion at the same time.  “X Dimension” owned by 
> Dave Collins and Chip John’s boat (name escapes me right now).
>  
> 
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

[jarel]

Yeah I was gonna mention getting the sample from the filter as well… we had to 
do that too… sometimes they would just ask us for the entire filter, others 
pour the oil out from the filter…

 

JP

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 5:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

 

Some airplanes have a magnetic oil drain plug with two electrical probes 
connected to a light. When the light goes on that means enough metal got stuck 
on there to complete the circuit and then you get to stare at the light until 
you land :(

Another thing we did with airplanes is cut the filters open when changing the 
oil to see what was caught in there.

Speaking of oil analysis, we always thought you needed several  - it was the 
trend you were looking for unless a number was really high.

Another oil related issue – an oil temperature gauge is a nice thing. Too hot 
is bad, but too cold is bad as well. You want to get the oil up to about 180 
degrees or it builds up water and contaminants. 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: ja...@jpiworldwide.com   
[mailto:ja...@jpiworldwide.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 7:55 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

 

Hi All,

 

In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft 
engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or 
aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours is a 
common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis would 
come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety of things… 
the most important thing to the owners and operators of the equipment was the 
metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus tend to  wea) parts of 
the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. By analyzing the metallic 
content really good analysts could determine exactly  what part inside the 
engine was breaking down… but usually they were just looking for the aggregate 
amount of metal shavings/dust/chips etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny 
little bit of metal in the oil (especially on high-hour engines), but over a 
certain level or amount of metal , the managers of the equipment would be 
concerned and sometimes even take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear 
the engine down and rebuild it or replace it. 

 

Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the 
combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. All 
of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, most tests 
will come back with some small amount of each depending on how infinite or 
precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was “dirt” or grit, sand, 
silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, bad fuel filler spout, bad 
fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing or hosing. If the sample had 
coolant in it, then they might look at the cylinder heads, or if there was 
soot, valves or rings may be the problem… all kinds of things can be divined 
from the oil sample if read by a knowledgeable person. 

 

Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch  

 

JP

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[jarel]

Hi

 

We used a variety of methods to pull the sample. Some engines required pulling 
from the sump or oil pan, others we would pull the sample from the drain plug, 
others we would stick a long tube down the filler tube and pump out the sample 
with the hand pump. Samples pulled from the pan or sump will most likely be 
dirtier ones.

 

JP

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 5:36 AM
To: Stus-List ; ja...@jpiworldwide.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Oil Testing

 

Oil Testing 

 

Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to 
capture the metals there? 

 

Chuck S 

On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM ja...@jpiworldwide.com   
wrote: 

 

 

Hi All,

 

In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft 
engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or 
aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours is a 
common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis would 
come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety of things… 
the most important thing to the owners and operators of the equipment was the 
metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus tend to  wea) parts of 
the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. By analyzing the metallic 
content really good analysts could determine exactly  what part inside the 
engine was breaking down… but usually they were just looking for the aggregate 
amount of metal shavings/dust/chips etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny 
little bit of metal in the oil (especially on high-hour engines), but over a 
certain level or amount of metal , the managers of the equipment would be 
concerned and sometimes even take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear 
the engine down and rebuild it or replace it. 

 

Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the 
combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. All 
of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, most tests 
will come back with some small amount of each depending on how infinite or 
precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was “dirt” or grit, sand, 
silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, bad fuel filler spout, bad 
fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing or hosing. If the sample had 
coolant in it, then they might look at the cylinder heads, or if there was 
soot, valves or rings may be the problem… all kinds of things can be divined 
from the oil sample if read by a knowledgeable person. 

 

Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 

 

JP

 

From: Tom Buscaglia mailto:t...@sv-alera.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 5:23 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

 

I never knew about the oil testing.  Just ordered a test kit...thanks!

Tom B

At 03:26 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:

This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. We just 
recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former owner left 
extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are the results 
from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going back 6 years. 
I’m starting to try and educate myself on this and will continue to do the 
sampling which comes up this November. My initial take is that it is important 
for spotting engine wear/maintenance trends.

Thanks to listers for all the insights.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin



On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:

I sample my oil and sent for analysis.  Costs $20 but the knowledge of whether 
or not the oil is good as well as what else could be wrong with the engine is 
invaluable.  For anyone who cares about the environmental impacts, not changing 
the oil is better for the environment too.  I use an over-sized oil filter and 
the very best amsoil marine diesel engine oil.  This particular oil has a high 
TBN of 12.  IIRC, TBN stand for total base number, you know base... The 
opposite of acid.  As acids build up in the oil the TBN goes down.  If the 
person doing the analysis sees that the trend suggests the TBN (or any of the 
oil specs) will be too close to zero before the next oil change, they modify 
their recommendations.  

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
 

Keeping moisture out of the oil is another key to long life.  A block heater 
keeps the oil dry, the rings from sticking, the cylinders from rusting and the 
boat warm enough to prevent the bilge from freezing.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[Josh Muckley]

Best practice is to run the engine up to temp and then dip the sucker tube
to the middle of the sump.

Josh

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020, 08:37 CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Oil Testing
>
> Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to
> capture the metals there?
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft
> engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or
> aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours
> is a common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis
> would come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety
> of things… the most important thing to the owners and operators of the
> equipment was the metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus
> tend to  wea) parts of the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil.
> By analyzing the metallic content really good analysts could determine
> exactly  what part inside the engine was breaking down… but usually they
> were just looking for the aggregate amount of metal shavings/dust/chips
> etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny little bit of metal in the oil
> (especially on high-hour engines), but over a certain level or amount of
> metal , the managers of the equipment would be concerned and sometimes even
> take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear the engine down and
> rebuild it or replace it.
>
>
>
> Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the
> combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica.
> All of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again,
> most tests will come back with some small amount of each depending on how
> infinite or precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was
> “dirt” or grit, sand, silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel,
> bad fuel filler spout, bad fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing
> or hosing. If the sample had coolant in it, then they might look at the
> cylinder heads, or if there was soot, valves or rings may be the problem…
> all kinds of things can be divined from the oil sample if read by a
> knowledgeable person.
>
>
>
> Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 
>
>
>
> JP
>
>
>
> *From:* Tom Buscaglia 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 15, 2020 5:23 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Engine Hours
>
>
> I never knew about the oil testing.  Just ordered a test kit...thanks!
>
> Tom B
>
> At 03:26 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
>
> This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. We just
> recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former owner
> left extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are the
> results from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going back 6
> years. I’m starting to try and educate myself on this and will continue
> to do the sampling which comes up this November. My initial take is that it
> is important for spotting engine wear/maintenance trends.
>
> Thanks to listers for all the insights.
>
> Regards,
> Dave
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>
>
> On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> I sample my oil and sent for analysis.  Costs $20 but the knowledge of
> whether or not the oil is good as well as what else could be wrong with the
> engine is invaluable.  For anyone who cares about the environmental
> impacts, not changing the oil is better for the environment too.  I use an
> over-sized oil filter and the very best amsoil marine diesel engine oil.
> This particular oil has a high TBN of 12.  IIRC, TBN stand for total base
> number, you know base... The opposite of acid.  As acids build up in the
> oil the TBN goes down.  If the person doing the analysis sees that the
> trend suggests the TBN (or any of the oil specs) will be too close to zero
> before the next oil change, they modify their recommendations.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Keeping moisture out of the oil is another key to long life.  A block
> heater keeps the oil dry, the rings from sticking, the cylinders from
> rusting and the boat warm enough to prevent the bilge from freezing.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use

Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Some airplanes have a magnetic oil drain plug with two electrical probes 
connected to a light. When the light goes on that means enough metal got stuck 
on there to complete the circuit and then you get to stare at the light until 
you land ☹
Another thing we did with airplanes is cut the filters open when changing the 
oil to see what was caught in there.
Speaking of oil analysis, we always thought you needed several  - it was the 
trend you were looking for unless a number was really high.
Another oil related issue – an oil temperature gauge is a nice thing. Too hot 
is bad, but too cold is bad as well. You want to get the oil up to about 180 
degrees or it builds up water and contaminants.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: ja...@jpiworldwide.com [mailto:ja...@jpiworldwide.com]
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 7:55 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

Hi All,

In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft 
engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or 
aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours is a 
common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis would 
come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety of things… 
the most important thing to the owners and operators of the equipment was the 
metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus tend to  wea) parts of 
the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. By analyzing the metallic 
content really good analysts could determine exactly  what part inside the 
engine was breaking down… but usually they were just looking for the aggregate 
amount of metal shavings/dust/chips etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny 
little bit of metal in the oil (especially on high-hour engines), but over a 
certain level or amount of metal , the managers of the equipment would be 
concerned and sometimes even take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear 
the engine down and rebuild it or replace it.

Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the 
combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. All 
of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, most tests 
will come back with some small amount of each depending on how infinite or 
precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was “dirt” or grit, sand, 
silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, bad fuel filler spout, bad 
fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing or hosing. If the sample had 
coolant in it, then they might look at the cylinder heads, or if there was 
soot, valves or rings may be the problem… all kinds of things can be divined 
from the oil sample if read by a knowledgeable person.

Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 

JP
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Oil Testing

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

Oil Testing

Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to 
capture the metals there?

Chuck S

> On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
>  
> 
> In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and 
> aircraft engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment 
> or aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours 
> is a common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis 
> would come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety of 
> things… the most important thing to the owners and operators of the equipment 
> was the metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus tend to  wea) 
> parts of the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. By analyzing the 
> metallic content really good analysts could determine exactly  what part 
> inside the engine was breaking down… but usually they were just looking for 
> the aggregate amount of metal shavings/dust/chips etc. There is usually some 
> tiny teeny-weeny little bit of metal in the oil (especially on high-hour 
> engines), but over a certain level or amount of metal , the managers of the 
> equipment would be concerned and sometimes even take a piece of equipment out 
> of  service and tear the engine down and rebuild it or replace it.
> 
>  
> 
> Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the 
> combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. 
> All of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, most 
> tests will come back with some small amount of each depending on how infinite 
> or precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was “dirt” or grit, 
> sand, silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, bad fuel filler 
> spout, bad fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing or hosing. If the 
> sample had coolant in it, then they might look at the cylinder heads, or if 
> there was soot, valves or rings may be the problem… all kinds of things can 
> be divined from the oil sample if read by a knowledgeable person.
> 
>  
> 
> Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 
> 
>  
> 
> JP
> 
>  
> 
> From: Tom Buscaglia 
> Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 5:23 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine Hours
> 
> 
> I never knew about the oil testing.  Just ordered a test kit...thanks!
> 
> Tom B
> 
> At 03:26 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
> 
> 
> > > 
> > This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. 
> > We just recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former 
> > owner left extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are 
> > the results from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going 
> > back 6 years. I’m starting to try and educate myself on this and will 
> > continue to do the sampling which comes up this November. My initial take 
> > is that it is important for spotting engine wear/maintenance trends.
> > 
> > Thanks to listers for all the insights.
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Dave
> > 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley  > > mailto:muckl...@gmail.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > I sample my oil and sent for analysis.  Costs $20 but the 
> > > knowledge of whether or not the oil is good as well as what else could be 
> > > wrong with the engine is invaluable.  For anyone who cares about the 
> > > environmental impacts, not changing the oil is better for the environment 
> > > too.  I use an over-sized oil filter and the very best amsoil marine 
> > > diesel engine oil.  This particular oil has a high TBN of 12.  IIRC, TBN 
> > > stand for total base number, you know base... The opposite of acid.  As 
> > > acids build up in the oil the TBN goes down.  If the person doing the 
> > > analysis sees that the trend suggests the TBN (or any of the oil specs) 
> > > will be too close to zero before the next oil change, they modify their 
> > > recommendations. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
> > > 
> > > Keeping moisture out of the oil is another key to long life.  
> > > A block heater keeps the oil dry, the rings from sticking, the cylinders 
> > > from rusting and the boat warm enough to prevent the bilge from freezing.
> > > 
> > > Josh Muckley
> > > S/V Sea Hawk
> > > 1989 C 37+
> > > Solomons, MD
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small 
> > contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support 
> > the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > 

Stus-List Re: I'm Baaaack!

[David Risch]

No but X Dimension was red…can find out easily enough.

From: Robert Mazza 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 3:32 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: I'm Bck!

David,

Don't remember their original names, do you?

Rob

On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 3:25 PM David Risch 
mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>> wrote:
Rob,

Incredibly we had 2 43’s in Marion at the same time.  “X Dimension” owned by 
Dave Collins and Chip John’s boat (name escapes me right now).

From: Robert Mazza mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 3:05 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: I'm Bck!

Hi JP,

Yes, welcome back, and congratulations on your fine taste. ;-)

The first C 43 was Arieto, commissioned by Mason Pearsall in 1970. She did 
very well in the 1971 SORC, and was later owned by Albert Schofield who raced 
her in the 1972 SORC. Alethea was a slightly later model with a modified aft 
end and a new more vertical rudder. She won Division B in the 1973 SORC. I 
believe there were 15 or 16 C 43s built, including  #2 Destination -owned by 
Russell Hoyt, Endurance - by Roger Derusha (Dean Derusha monitors this site), 
Caprice owned originally, I believe, by John Fergus, #5 was Avanti owned Sid 
Bregman and later by  the artist Christopher Pratt who named her Dry Fly, #8  
was Rampage owned John Odenbach and then by Randy Bell, #9 – Butterfly – Bruce 
Sully,  #10 – Night Train – Blair Vedder, #11 was commisiond by Dean Stiles of 
Belvedere, CA, but I can't remember her name. The last C 43 built was Long 
Reach owned by Dick Scott of Hamilton, ON.  If anyone can fill in the gaps in 
my memory, I would be grateful!

Rob Mazza

On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 10:21 AM 
mailto:ja...@jpiworldwide.com>> wrote:
[cid:image001.gif@01D6A309.53421080]
Hi All,

Well, after a few years of wishing I had a boat again, I am back on the list!
I am so excited I am making puddles under my chair…

A few days ago I purchased Alethea, a C 43-1!

Whew… long dry spell.

I had been on this list and had a C 34 called “Gabriella” that I brought up 
river from Seattle To Clarkston Washington and sailed it there a few years ago, 
then sold it to a great couple in the Tri-Cities of Washington because life had 
started taking some crazy twists as it often can.  I had owned several 
“cruising” boats before…but  I was spoiled by “Gabby”. Her balance underway was 
incredible and for a smaller racer/cruiser she was pretty comfortable…even 
lived aboard for a few months on her and just felt at home.
I loved my C but decided to just look at boat ads for a couple years waiting 
to find “the just right one” again… I didn’t plan on buying another C but 
wanted a decent cruising boat as I am getting to that stage in life where 
extended cruising is now a possibility.

So… in my search for a new boat… I kept drifting back to a C To be fair, I 
had considered everything from a Morgan to Petersen to CT-47 and dozens of 
other boats in all configurations (even thought about a Amel Maramu I kinda 
liked, but decided it would be good to be able to eat while I cruised and 
figured it was a bit out of the budget). So after a dozen or sea trials, 
discussions with every owner about their boat I was interested in, I decided on 
the CT-47….  then when I was about to pull the trigger on the CT, I saw the C 
43… I couldn’t find a reason not to buy her. I looked at the pictures I was 
sent of the boat and remembered why I loved Gabby… I am not a hard core racer, 
but a little speed never hurt anyone… she looked like she was screaming through 
the water at breakneck speed tied to the dock. She was well fitted, clean, and 
the owner had some pride in her. The survey said she was in good shape…and once 
again… I was hooked. When you look at a C’s numbers and performance as a 
cruiser rather than a racer, they may be a bit light, but they stand up well 
statistically to other cruisers… https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-43-1

As of now Alethea is laying in the Long Beach Ca. area and I am trying to 
figure out if I wanna sail her next summer up to the Seattle area or move her 
by truck to Seattle now…Any thoughts? Know of any deals on trucking? I could 
sail her up next summer when the weather is better in the Pacific for a few 
weeks… but I also want to get her on the hard this winter and start fitting her 
for extended cruising. As of last Tuesday she is going through the 
documentation process here in the States as I wanted her to be a documented 
vessel for my cruising purposes.

I am glad to be on the Stu’s list again… I always found this community to be 
well versed in the C world, and you all were a great help with Gabby. I 
appreciated the input everyone had…

Currently Alethea has a modest set of sails, a Pathfinder 50 engine, some 
average electronics, and the previous owner had kept her up on the inside. I 
plan on mounting a windlass, redoing and adding some electronics, going through 
the engine (never worked on a 

Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

[jarel]

Hi All,

 

In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft 
engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or 
aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every  100 hours is a 
common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis would 
come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety of things… 
the most important thing to the owners and operators of the equipment was the 
metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus tend to  wea) parts of 
the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. By analyzing the metallic 
content really good analysts could determine exactly  what part inside the 
engine was breaking down… but usually they were just looking for the aggregate 
amount of metal shavings/dust/chips etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny 
little bit of metal in the oil (especially on high-hour engines), but over a 
certain level or amount of metal , the managers of the equipment would be 
concerned and sometimes even take a piece of equipment out of  service and tear 
the engine down and rebuild it or replace it. 

 

Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the 
combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. All 
of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, most tests 
will come back with some small amount of each depending on how infinite or 
precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was “dirt” or grit, sand, 
silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, bad fuel filler spout, bad 
fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing or hosing. If the sample had 
coolant in it, then they might look at the cylinder heads, or if there was 
soot, valves or rings may be the problem… all kinds of things can be divined 
from the oil sample if read by a knowledgeable person. 

 

Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch  

 

JP

 

From: Tom Buscaglia  
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 5:23 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

 

I never knew about the oil testing.  Just ordered a test kit...thanks!

Tom B

At 03:26 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:



This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. We just 
recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former owner left 
extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are the results 
from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going back 6 years. 
I’m starting to try and educate myself on this and will continue to do the 
sampling which comes up this November. My initial take is that it is important 
for spotting engine wear/maintenance trends.

Thanks to listers for all the insights.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin




On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:

I sample my oil and sent for analysis.  Costs $20 but the knowledge of whether 
or not the oil is good as well as what else could be wrong with the engine is 
invaluable.  For anyone who cares about the environmental impacts, not changing 
the oil is better for the environment too.  I use an over-sized oil filter and 
the very best amsoil marine diesel engine oil.  This particular oil has a high 
TBN of 12.  IIRC, TBN stand for total base number, you know base... The 
opposite of acid.  As acids build up in the oil the TBN goes down.  If the 
person doing the analysis sees that the trend suggests the TBN (or any of the 
oil specs) will be too close to zero before the next oil change, they modify 
their recommendations.  

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
 

Keeping moisture out of the oil is another key to long life.  A block heater 
keeps the oil dry, the rings from sticking, the cylinders from rusting and the 
boat warm enough to prevent the bilge from freezing.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


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.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com   



October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu