Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks John and Tom.  In hindsight I’m not convinced I had a stuck valve, but 
did the Marvel Mystery Oil trick just for good measure.  I think it’s more 
likely that my carb’s idle jet might have been partially blocked.  Or that my 
dirty flame arrestor screen wasn’t allowing sufficient airflow at idle.  Today 
I ran some BG 44K fuel system cleaner through the A4 for ~10 minutes, with the 
flame arrestor off, and the engine idled and ran great.  I always fog the 
cylinders with Stabil fogging oil too, when laying up for winter.  And change 
the oil.  I motor at most 30 hours per year, and that’s a generous estimate.  I 
can go a whole season on one tank of gas - this year’s end-of-season refill was 
only 13 gallons (in a 20-gallon tank).

Cheers,
Randy

> On Nov 1, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:
> 
> Randy
> 
> My 35 MK1 had an A4.  I ended up pulling the head and refacing the carb 
> before it got smooth.  I also had to flush out the cooling jacked in the 
> engine.  
> 
> AS far as rough running, yes to Marvel.  IN addition to the carb, you may 
> also want to pull the spark plug and pour a little into each cylinder.  And 
> while you have the spark plug out you can try to see the valves and release a 
> stuck valve (if that's your issue) by putting a screwdriver into the cylinder 
> through the spark plug whole and seeing if you can push the stuck valve down. 
>  Just manually rotate the crank a few times to make sure you can check them 
> all.  It is a standard flathead configuration, if that helps.  That actually 
> worked for me on one valve.
> 
> The oth4 trouble po9nt as the carb.  My 35 had been sitting for a few year 
> and the float in the carb was filled with a growth that resembled the inside 
> of a malted milk ball.  
> 
> Finally, you can get a tome of support and parts for your A4 at 
> https://moyermarine.com/ .  I could not have done 
> my engine tear down without their support.
> 
> Tom B
> 
> At 09:54 AM 11/1/2020, you wrote:
>> Content-Language: en-CA
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>  
>> boundary="_000_DM6PR01MB5419240A001436046ABCBC91BA130DM6PR01MB5419prod_"
>> 
>> Strong  believer in this stuff. Half a bottle per tankful. If you have not 
>> emptied the tank this fall, add STABIL or a preservative. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from Mail  for Windows 
>> 10
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> Sent: November 1, 2020 9:30 AM
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Randy Stafford 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the 
>> carb’s air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Randy
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C. > > wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
>> when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was 
>> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  
>> I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>> 
>>   -- 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> 
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor > > wrote:
>> 
>> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
>> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
>> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
>> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
>> power and smooth running!
>> 
>> James
>> 
>> Delaney
>> 
>> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
>> 
>> Oriental, NC
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>   Thanks - Stu
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
>> Thanks - Stu
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small 

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, I did the deed today.  Removed the flame arrestor (and cleaned its 
screen thoroughly while it was off), and poured Marvel Mystery Oil into the 
carb’s air intake several times over the course of a ~10-minute engine run.  It 
did produce clouds of smoke and lower the RPM the first few times.  Probably 
used 2-3 ounces in total.  I’m confident the valves are lubed now :)  Video on 
the Facebook C owner’s group, if you’re a member.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Nov 1, 2020, at 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> You need to add just enough to do the job.  You'll know you did too much when 
> the engine dies.  You'll know you did too little when no smoke or no 
> improvement in performance.
> 
> A pinch? 
> 
> A splash?
> 
> A dash? 
> 
> A dribble?
> 
> I know, not very helpful!  Haha
> 
> If you have to pour from the bottle then just tip in a drizzle - enough for 
> smoke and rpm change.  Wait for the smoke to clear and the engine to return 
> to normal, then repeat... As the engine cleans up it will tolerate more and 
> more and the RPM will smooth.  If you want more precision, a teaspoon (5ml) 
> would be reasonable starting point.  A less messy way is to go to the epoxy 
> isle at west marine and get a 50ml syringe.  With the syringe you can just 
> meter it in nice and easy.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 09:30 Randy Stafford via CnC-List  > wrote:
> When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the 
> carb’s air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy
> 
>> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C. > > wrote:
>> 
>> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
>> when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was 
>> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
>> 
>> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  
>> I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>>   -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor > > wrote:
>> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
>> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
>> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
>> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
>> power and smooth running!
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
>> Oriental, NC
>> 
>> 
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>   Thanks - Stu
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List New sails

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

OK--my 5 yr old 3Di North 155 head sail is almost dead--especially after a tear 
along the foot during a race on Halloween.
I think I want to go with a non-laminate sail (their life locally seems to be 
around 5 years in my use of them) and since I mostly club-race and maybe CRW, I 
am not going with a 'Grand Prix' sail of any kind. I'd just like to get more 
years out of my headsail than the 5 yr average I have had over the last 15 
years with laminate sails. 
In ~ 2010, I purchased a kite, mainsail and 155 genoa from Hood because several 
locals liked the longevity of their Vectran reinforced, high 'density' woven 
Dacron which Hood made themselves in Ireland.
Both the kite and the mainsail are still in good shape but they were unable to 
get the shape of the 155 correct, even after I returned it for adjustments--it 
actually had a 'negative' shape (i.e. going to upwind it wanted to curl to 
weather over some of its luff?).
I eventually had it re cut locally which made it more like a 140% so its not a 
155 but at least it doesn't have a negative shape!
Anyhow, I am looking for a longer life 155 for local club racing and 'cruising' 
to other local races, although most of this is with the engine.
Since Hood no longer exists and I would be reluctant to go there after the 
experience I had with the 155, I am thinking of 3Di NorDac from North. If you 
believe their hype, it has the advantages of a molded sail, the longer life of 
a Dacron and per a quote I had 2 years ago actually a little less expensive 
than the non-molded Nordac.
I know that Hood has been purchased by Quantum but I don't know if they 
maintained the high 'denier(?) Dacron reinforced with Vectran that Hood used.
Thoughts from the list on this would be appreciated. 
In the meantime, I hope a local sail maker can 'patch' the foot of my 3Di so I 
can finish our winter series (5 race days thru January 2021). Unfortunately , 
the patch would require a sail tape about the width of 'butcher paper'!
Thanks,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36 XL/kcb



October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

My two cents.  I remember reading this accident back in 2016.  The main cause 
after that report made me think it was more, "inexperience and lack of common 
sense on part of the crew".  The crew were not up to the task and it is a shame 
a quality built boat was abandoned and lives were lost.   Pick your crew 
wisely.  I'd rather have a couple McGivers than a half dozen Bill Murray's.  

You don't have to have Volvo experienced guys but you need people who can 
identify a problem and work through to a fix.  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md



> On 11/01/2020 3:03 PM Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I found the report on the boom preventer accident. Regardless of how 
> related it is to today’s discussion; it is an interesting read. It also 
> touches on some other maintenance issues (autopilot), which were as (if not 
> more) important.
> 
>  
> 
> An abridged version with commentary is here (Sail World): 
> https://www.sail-world.com/news/208083/Report-findings-on-Platino-double-death
>  
> https://www.sail-world.com/news/208083/Report-findings-on-Platino-double-death
>  .
> 
>  
> 
> Here is a link to the full report: 
> https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/commercial/safety/accidents-reporting/accident-reports/documents/Platino-mnz-accident-report-2016.pdf
>  
> https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/commercial/safety/accidents-reporting/accident-reports/documents/Platino-mnz-accident-report-2016.pdf
>  . It is a large (61-page) document.
> 
>  
> 
> I don’t think many of us will be sailing in such circumstances, but the 
> read is interesting regardless.
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
>  
> 
> From: David Risch
> Sent: 31 October, 2020 16:22
> To: Stus-List 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement
> 
> 
> The real risk to breaking the boom mid mount are uncontrolled jibes and 
> and/or planting the boom in the water whilst doing same.  The former can 
> happen anytime..the later usually offshore.  Plan accordingly. 
> 
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution 
> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Tom Buscaglia]

Randy

My 35 MK1 had an A4.  I ended up pulling the head 
and refacing the carb before it got smooth.  I 
also had to flush out the cooling jacked in the engine.


AS far as rough running, yes to Marvel.  IN 
addition to the carb, you may also want to pull 
the spark plug and pour a little into each 
cylinder.  And while you have the spark plug out 
you can try to see the valves and release a stuck 
valve (if that's your issue) by putting a 
screwdriver into the cylinder through the spark 
plug whole and seeing if you can push the stuck 
valve down.  Just manually rotate the crank a few 
times to make sure you can check them all.  It is 
a standard flathead configuration, if that 
helps.  That actually worked for me on one valve.


The oth4 trouble po9nt as the carb.  My 35 had 
been sitting for a few year and the float in the 
carb was filled with a growth that resembled the 
inside of a malted milk ball.


Finally, you can get a tome of support and parts 
for your A4 at https://moyermarine.com/.  I could 
not have done my engine tear down without their support.


Tom B

At 09:54 AM 11/1/2020, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_DM6PR01MB5419240A001436046ABCBC91BA130DM6PR01MB5419prod_"

Strong  believer in this stuff. Half a bottle 
per tankful. If you have not emptied the tank 
this fall, add STABIL or a preservative.




Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: November 1, 2020 9:30 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough



When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery 
Oil do you pour into the carb’s air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?




Thanks,

Randy



On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C. 
<capt...@gmail.com> wrote:




Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery 
Oil is great stuff.  However, when I did it I 
used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I 
was resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.




I also did it late one Sunday evening after all 
my dock neighbors had left.  I WILL make a cloud.  :)


  --

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA





On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor 
<jtsai...@gmail.com> wrote:


Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with 
an A4 and very easy to fix. With the engine 
running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel 
Mystery Oil into the carb air intake. Do this a 
couple of times and marvel at the smoke cloud! 
This will usually free up a stuck valve and 
return the engine to full power and smooth running!


James

Delaney

C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)

Oriental, NC





October is the time to show your appreciation 
with a small contribution to this list to help 
offset the costs. If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--

https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




October is the time to show your appreciation 
with a small contribution to this list to help 
offset the costs. If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

[Marek Dziedzic]

I found the report on the boom preventer accident. Regardless of how related it 
is to today's discussion; it is an interesting read. It also touches on some 
other maintenance issues (autopilot), which were as (if not more) important.

An abridged version with commentary is here (Sail World): 
https://www.sail-world.com/news/208083/Report-findings-on-Platino-double-death.

Here is a link to the full report: 
https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/commercial/safety/accidents-reporting/accident-reports/documents/Platino-mnz-accident-report-2016.pdf.
 It is a large (61-page) document.

I don't think many of us will be sailing in such circumstances, but the read is 
interesting regardless.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: David Risch
Sent: 31 October, 2020 16:22
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

The real risk to breaking the boom mid mount are uncontrolled jibes and and/or 
planting the boom in the water whilst doing same.  The former can happen 
anytime..the later usually offshore.  Plan accordingly.
Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: test for multiple copy emails

[Joel Aronson]

Got it

On Sun, Nov 1, 2020 at 12:37 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> test 1
>
> CS
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[John Irvin]

Strong  believer in this stuff. Half a bottle per tankful. If you have not 
emptied the tank this fall, add STABIL or a preservative.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: November 1, 2020 9:30 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the carb’s 
air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?

Thanks,
Randy


On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was resuscitating 
hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.

I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  I 
WILL make a cloud.  :)
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor 
mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. With 
the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil into the 
carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke cloud! This 
will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full power and 
smooth running!
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
Oriental, NC


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List test for multiple copy emails

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

test 1

CSOctober is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Josh Muckley]

You need to add just enough to do the job.  You'll know you did too much
when the engine dies.  You'll know you did too little when no smoke or no
improvement in performance.

A pinch?

A splash?

A dash?

A dribble?

I know, not very helpful!  Haha

If you have to pour from the bottle then just tip in a drizzle - enough for
smoke and rpm change.  Wait for the smoke to clear and the engine to return
to normal, then repeat... As the engine cleans up it will tolerate more and
more and the RPM will smooth.  If you want more precision, a teaspoon (5ml)
would be reasonable starting point.  A less messy way is to go to the epoxy
isle at west marine and get a 50ml syringe.  With the syringe you can just
meter it in nice and easy.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 09:30 Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the
> carb’s air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
>
> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.
> However, when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was
> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
>
> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had
> left.  I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor  wrote:
>
>> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to
>> fix. With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery
>> Oil into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the
>> smoke cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine
>> to full power and smooth running!
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
>> Oriental, NC
>>
>>
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution
> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

I appreciate the preventer advice.  Great winter project to make a pendant for 
my boom.  

FWIW, I usually daysail singlehanded in lighter winds on the Chesapeake and use 
my Barber-Haulers for preventers.The Barber-Haulers are 30 ft long 3/8" 
line rigged thru blocks attached to the toerail and normally used to pull the 
genoa lead out when reaching.   One end has a SS carabiner to clip onto the 
genoa clew and the other end run to cockpit winch.  I rig them as preventers 
when sailing wing and wing, by simply clipping them into a short loop attached 
to the fitting on the boom where the Vang attaches.   It's not as strong as a 
proper preventer rigged from end of boom to the bow, but it works well with 
vang and mainsheet to stop any boom movement that could lead to an accidental 
gybe.   The boom will be rigid and well behaved.  I always rig Barber-haulers 
before leaving the dock and clip them to the lifelines.  They really help open 
the slot when reaching and stabilize the genoa too.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md 

> On 10/31/2020 11:57 AM Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> 
> I agree with Matt that breaking the boom seems relatively unlikely.  In 
> the past, I have also made off to the boom bail myself.  One advantage to 
> using a mid-boom attachment is that it facilitates keeping the preventer 
> inside of the jib sheets whereas an end boom arrangement will necessitate 
> dipping the pennant in order to lead the preventer outside the jib sheets.  
> If the pennant leads to a stowage point forward of the main sheet boom bail 
> you would have to dip there as well.  Certainly using any preventer is better 
> than nothing.  But having it pre-rigged is the key since rigging it on the 
> fly leaves lots of opportunity for error.
> 
> I have heard that using a "stretchy" line is favorable so as to absorb 
> shock loads.  Triple braid dock line comes to mind.
> 
> I forgot to mention that one way to make storing the pennant easier and 
> quicker to deploy is to make it out of amsteel.  Thread surgical tubing up 
> inside the middle.  Now the act of pulling the line tight compresses the 
> tubing which creates an elastic resistance but retains the full strength of 
> the amsteel.  Whether you use a hook, eye, snap shackle, or other means of 
> attachment, you will have some elasticity to keep the line tight to the boom. 
>  Personally I like having an eye splice which can be slipped over the horn of 
> a cleat, though a hook or snap shackle could be used to make it off to an 
> existing boom bail.  You can even make the pennant the full length of the 
> boom and hook the eye on to one of the reefing horns at the goose neck.
> 
> I dislike hooks and snap shackles since they will inevitably chew the 
> boom and attachment point.
> 
> 
> Josh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, Oct 31, 2020, 10:40 Matthew < wolf...@erie.net 
> mailto:wolf...@erie.net > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Peter:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Although Josh and Andy do it “right,” unless you’re 
> > sailing in relatively heavy air (25 knots and up) I suspect it is unlikely 
> > you will break the boom using the existing mainsheet boom bail.  Obviously, 
> > the further out the better.  We use a boom vang kit as a preventer (I 
> > believe it is Schaefer -- http://riggingonly.com/TACKLEVANG04.htm ).  The 
> > kit is stored down below when not in use.  If we anticipate using it, we 
> > store it on deck near the mast.  To use it, we attach one end to the aft 
> > boom bail and the other end (with the cam) to the toe rail forward of the 
> > boom, then snug it up.  It would undoubtedly be better (safer) to secure it 
> > to the end of boom.  To gybe, we remove the preventer entirely, bring the 
> > main all the way in, gybe the main, let it back out, and secure the 
> > preventer on the other side.  We do not leave the preventer on the boom 
> > through the gybe, as it could be a lethal weapon.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I believe this method is fairly typical around here (Erie).  
> > Perhaps Bill Coleman will weigh in.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Matt
> > 
> > C 42 Custom
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: Peter McMinn  > mailto:petemcm...@gmail.com >
> > Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 2:05 AM
> > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Subject: Stus-List Preventer boom placement
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Hey group, I'd like to install a preventer on our 37. What's the 
> > wisdom on positioning the block on the boom?--
> > 
> > Peter McMinn
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > >  _/)
> > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a 
> > > small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to 
> > > support 

Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

[David Knecht]

I debated the preventer issue last year and ended up putting in a Dutchman boom 
brake instead.  It is more complicated and more expensive, but here are the 
reasons:
1. I race periodically short or single-handed and jibing in high winds is 
challenging in those conditions.  With the boom brake set, I can safely jibe 
without ever touching the mainsheet as it slows boom movement dramatically.
2.  When cruising or racing in seas, wing on wing or shifty winds, I can clamp 
the brake so it prevents accidental jibes.
3. I never have to leave the cockpit to set a preventer.

Negatives:
1.  Expensive
2.  Takes some practice to get it set right so it works as expected.

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 31, 2020, at 7:00 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the carb’s 
air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?

Thanks,
Randy

> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
> when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was 
> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
> 
> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  
> I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>   -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor  > wrote:
> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
> power and smooth running!
> James
> Delaney
> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
> Oriental, NC
> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C history on Youtube

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

Hi Rob,
I just read your comment on that Youtube channel.  Glad to see someone with 
your knowledge comment on the C history.  I added links to Stu's website but 
no one has replied to mine yet.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md



> On 10/30/2020 8:54 AM Robert Mazza  wrote:
> 
> 
> The video was sincere and well meaning, but not entirely accurate. 
> However, the good exceeded the bad. He did a similiar commentary on Hunters 
> as well, which also had inaccuracies. A combination of personal experience 
> and a little bit of research. Both well presented though.
> 
> Rob M
> 
> On Fri, Oct 30, 2020, 7:09 AM John and Maryann Read, < 
> johnprea...@gmail.com mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Cool – maybe should be on the stu’slist web site?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > John and Maryann
> > 
> > Legacy III
> > 
> > 1982 C 34
> > 
> > Noank, CT
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net 
> > mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net ]
> > Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2020 10:07 PM
> > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> > Subject: Stus-List C history on Youtube
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Someone made a short history of C for Youtube.  Hopefully it may 
> > help sell some of our boats.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_n3dG4PPCI
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute
> > 
> > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small 
> > contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support 
> > the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small 
> > contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support 
> > the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: For Chuck Schaeffer

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

Hi Stu,

Thanks for straightening this out.  We're getting close.  I found over twenty 
C emails this morning.

1) I received a copy of my post (sent 4:24pm) the following day, 1:52am 

2) The spelling in the subject is different than my name, I'm "ea", 
cscheaf...@comcast.net mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net

3) I did receive a few doubles but only for a short while. 

Chuck  

> On 10/31/2020 4:24 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Stu,
> 
> Got the email from you but not the C list.  It's been 30 minutes.
> 
> Chuck
> 
> 
> 
> > > On 10/31/2020 3:49 PM Stu  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck – please let me know if you get this from the list.
> > 
> > Stay safe tonite everyone – Stu
> > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small 
> > contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support 
> > the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small 
> > contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support 
> > the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu