Re: Stus-List C&C 37 with spartite

[Bill via CnC-List]

I did that on my 39, and I removed those annoying straps. I put A Rod going from the top center of the mask collar, with a flathead on the top end of the rod, sealed in butyl. On the bottom I had a turnbuckle, and I drilled and tapped into a keel bolt and put 3/8 in threads into the keelbolt for the bottom of the turnbuckle. I think some of the newer boats had something similar to that.Bill ColemanOn Sep 17, 2019 3:14 PM, "pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List"  wrote: I have a 1984 37’ and am considering using spartite.   Has anyone done this on the this model?  How did you accommodate the tie down straps? Thanks,___

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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Bill via CnC-List]

Yes.You can ask, that is_However, don't do it! I did that in a 1973 Perkins, and It continued to run. However after I did it, I read a lot of stories and articles that said not to use synthetic oil in older engines. The engines were not designed for it. I have also heard stories of them starting to leak, although I cannot verify that. Modern car engines are designed for synthetic and you absolutely should use synthet in those, however these were not engineered for it. Another more common sense reason, is that it is strongly recommended to change your oil in the fall, so it doesn't sit with acidic oil and it all winter. And, seeing as how most of us generally don't use more than 20 or 40 gallons of diesel a year, these engines are generally bathed in pretty clean oil. My Yanmar has around 2500 hours on it, and the oil still looks pristine even towards the end of the season.Bill ColemanErie PAOn Aug 30, 2019 1:46 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  wrote:Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar 2GM?WadeOh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 port size

[Bill via CnC-List]

I replaced my forward ports with those from New Found Metals on the West coast.They were stainless steel, and tempered glass. Quite nice.Bill ColemanErie PAOn Aug 29, 2019 10:57 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  wrote:

 
My port looking aft form the galley is original 1973 Plexiglas and is a bit cloudy to say the least!
I could just cut a new piece, I have it sitting around, and fix it for free, but I was wondering if there is a modern opening port that fits in that opening or
 what the closest size/type would be?
I think it is the same size as the two forward ports as well.
Thanks!
Joe
Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

[Bill via CnC-List]

Maybe group in the pickup tube? Try disconnecting it and blowing it outBill ColemanOn Aug 17, 2019 8:13 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List  wrote:My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load. It also appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at the dock forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be able to get up to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with no issue, but I'm only getting to about 2500-2800. When I open the throttle wide it in gear it initially goes to high RPMs and then drops back. I replaced the fuel filter and the symptom remains the same. Any thoughts on what to look for and approaches to debug? I've got the service manual and Don Casey's book on small engines, but nothing is matching the symptoms in trouble shooting exactly wellSo my theories are (in approximate order of suspicion from my novice perspective based on reading)Governor is faulty and needs adjustmentInjector faultyFuel pump issueAir/water in fuel (I think I've mostly ruled this out) 
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Re: Stus-List Shannon Rose

[Bill via CnC-List]

Oh no, brain fart-  I think that is owned by Mike Rose, of Massachusetts or something like that.Bill ColemanOn Aug 5, 2019 8:38 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List  wrote:Hey BillWe do indeed own pretty boatsJack FitzgeraldHONEY US12788C&C 39TMSavannah GAOn Aug 5, 2019, at 08:24, Bill via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Haha, that's funny. ! That may have been one of the most graceful designs they made. I always heard that, but being on it, was never able to see it. I believe that boat was owned for many years by Randy Stephens up in Nova Scotia. I think it just sold last year. He put a much more contemporary keel on it, around 8 feet I believe.Bill ColemanErie PAOn Aug 5, 2019 7:38 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Sitting happily at the anchorage at Cuttyhunk when a 39 named Shannon Rose came in and spoiled my evening by anchoring right next to me. Now everyone looks at their boat and not mine!



Andy



PS They did improve my view, I love those boats!





Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Shannon Rose

[Bill via CnC-List]

Haha, that's funny. ! That may have been one of the most graceful designs they made. I always heard that, but being on it, was never able to see it. I believe that boat was owned for many years by Randy Stephens up in Nova Scotia. I think it just sold last year. He put a much more contemporary keel on it, around 8 feet I believe.Bill ColemanErie PAOn Aug 5, 2019 7:38 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  wrote:Sitting happily at the anchorage at Cuttyhunk when a 39 named Shannon Rose came in and spoiled my evening by anchoring right next to me. Now everyone looks at their boat and not mine!

Andy

PS They did improve my view, I love those boats!


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Waste Holding Tank Hose

[Bill via CnC-List]

I think Shields makes the hose specific to holding tank hoses, to mitigate the smell.I don't think when these boats were built there were hoses made specifically for holding tanks. you have to be careful with some of the fittings that are made for these thanks, because some of them are actually 1 5/8, and you will have a hell of a time pushing them on to the Barbed ends. I had good luck finding adapter elbows at pool stores. Another thing I like, is using reinforced silicone radiator hose for the supply line, because it has no memory and you can remove it easily to winterize the head. Bill ColemanErie PAOn Aug 3, 2019 4:18 PM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List  wrote:I am in the process of changing my head in my 1985 C&C 33-2 and since the hose connected to the head and the waste tank was old.  I figured I would replace that to while I am at it.  Questions:1.  Is the original waste hoses Shields 310 Fuel Hoses?2.  If they are, why did C&C use a Very Very Very expensive Fuel Hose.3. Since the connection to the head is on the opposite side of the hole in the wall and the hose does not flex to make the connection.  Any recommendations on connectors to attach to VERY VERY VERY expensive fuel hose to make the turn.Thanks,Ray LakeHouseMilwaukee, WI 
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Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Bill via CnC-List]

Or this?http://www.balmar.net/services-view/sg200/illBill ColemanOn Jul 5, 2019 2:35 PM, Olivier Chatot via CnC-List  wrote:Hi Edd,I agree with Marek and Gary about the voltage reading not being a reliable indication of the state of charge. Here's an example from my boat. At noon my battery bank is normally back to full charge and the voltmeter shows 14.01V, cool. A second later the fridge starts and the voltage drops to close to 13V.  Best,OlivierOn Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 13:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  wrote:






Edd,
to add to what Gary said...
 
any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is tricky, because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are, what the actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over time, never up) and at what SoC (state of
 charge) you started the measurements.
 
I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how much of that is left.
 
The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6 A times “several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah battery bank, even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% SoC you should be at 95% (if it was 6
 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%).
 
As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must.
 
The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery at the given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you were watching the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage meter would show some number much lower
 than 12 V (even if the SoC was almost 100%).
 
I am not sure if it helped you much, though
 
Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON


 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 13:08
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours


 


Hi Edd,
    The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of a lead-acid battery when the battery has been without load (or charge) for several hours.  Otherwise, the voltage is pretty much meaningless.  Many devices measure the state of charge
 by noting the difference between the number of amp-hours drawn and the number of amp-hours charged into the battery.  It is a more accurate indication of the state of charge but has it's limitations as well.  Any inaccuracy in measuring the current into or
 out of the battery will accumulate over time requiring the device to be "re-synchronized".
 
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



 


 

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:


Listers,
 
Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little perplexed about the readings I am seeing.

 
Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around 6 amps between using the electric
 head, cell phone charging, etc. for several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.

 
Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really the one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching things off.

 
Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
 
- Confused on City Island

 

All the best, 
 

Edd


---—-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---




Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize






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Re: Stus-List B&G Boat rotation on screen

[Bill via CnC-List]

Well, I did the turns, and it is still 135° off. I guess I will have to dig a Little deeper. Maybe It has something to do with how the boat is rotated.On Jun 27, 2019 1:11 PM, Bill  wrote:There is an RFC 35r rate compass installed. I'm assuming it would be a fluxgate, probably 2002 vintage. Good call. This has me thinking. I just brought it up on the screen and I can actually calibrate it . I couldn't figure out how in the world I would do that,  because they are so old and different. But it looks like when we get back to Port, I will do my turns. And see if something magical happens.Bill ___

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Re: Stus-List B&G Boat rotation on screen

[Bill via CnC-List]

There is an RFC 35r rate compass installed. I'm assuming it would be a fluxgate, probably 2002 vintage. Good call. This has me thinking. I just brought it up on the screen and I can actually calibrate it . I couldn't figure out how in the world I would do that,  because they are so old and different. But it looks like when we get back to Port, I will do my turns. And see if something magical happens.Bill ___

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Stus-List B&G Boat rotation on screen

[Bill via CnC-List]

I am having difficulty correcting the rotation of a little boat icon on the screen to the direction I am going. I am currently traveling at 238 degrees, and the boat is pointing around 360. Does this require a compass calibration, or is it some simple setting? This is also screwing up my true wind and apparent wind speed.Thanks, Bill ColemanErie PA___

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Re: Stus-List plumbing rant stuff does not fit

[Bill via CnC-List]

I recall coming across those same problems too. A couple of things. pool stores have some really neat stuff in them if you just go in them and browse around. The fittings,  they are more like 1 and 1/2 in then 1& 5/8. Also, I always use a heat gun. Really makes them easy to get on and off. also, tractor supply has some nice fittings. They have pretty durable nylon pieces for Farmers spray equipment and stuff so it's pretty tough. They also have what could be used as through hull strainers that look just as good as what I have seen in Marine storesBill ColemanOn Jun 10, 2019 8:03 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  wrote:

The head plumbing got clogged up on our last trip. I could not fix it without removing some of the old hoses. As expected, they all had to be cut apart, nothing was going to come loose. I heaved it all in the
 dumpster and got some new hose and a 1.5 inch 90 degree elbow. No matter how tight I made the clamps, it ended up leaking. I took it back to West Marine and did some comparisons with other 1.5” fittings. Most of them are a bit too big and you can’t even get
 them on without heating the hose up and using a lot of force. Say they are all maybe 1.6 inches in diameter. The 90 degree fittings are more like 1.4 inches.
I ended up using a boat pole to fish the old plumbing back out of the dumpster and cutting the elbow out of that mess to use again.
Final part of the rant: The Y-Valve has a smooth fitting that is a bit tight and doesn’t leak, but you can get the hose back off. Why can’t they ALL be that way!
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 
Composting head looks better every day….


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Re: Stus-List Shore Power at a Slip

[Bill via CnC-List]

Yes. Just go over all of your hoses and everything so that you feel comfortable. Nothing like cold beer and ice when you want it.Bill ColemanOn May 31, 2019 11:02 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:Listers,The Enterprise will soon be moving to a full-time slip location — a first in my boating history. So, a question for all of your slip owners out there with shore power:Do you keep your shore power connected, your charger running, your 12V system on, fridge and other accessories on at all times, even if you’ll be away from the boat for a length of time? Are there any negatives associated with doing that? I’m used to a mooring where everything is shut down when you leave the boat. 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FLStarship Enterprise's Captain's Log	

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Bill via CnC-List]

First of all, at the risk of sounding like a 'do as I say don't do as I do' kind of guy. I'm just thinking, well, if this is one of those transducers that can actually show you the image of a ship on the bottom, it might lose some of that fine detail going through a fiberglass hull. Why don't you call the nice folks at airmar, and ask them if you might lose some of your detail going through solid fiberglass, even if it is a good solid section. If you get the right Tech, they're very accommodating.Bill ColemanOn May 18, 2019 7:25 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:Hello all,I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at West Marine.  This comes with a good transducer that will map out the bottom, act as a fish finder, etc.    On most boats, the transducer can be mounted in the bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently.  We, however, have a cored hull.If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing transducer, but I'd like the added functionality.Does anyone know if there is a spot around the keel where the hull is not cored and it might work?Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored?Thanks!Bruce WhitmoreSent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Deck anti algae treatment

[Bill via CnC-List]

Use wet & forget. Most big-box stores, and a Costco handle itBill ___

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Stus-List Serpentine conversion

[Bill via CnC-List]

Has anyone converted their alternator to a serpentine belt on a Yanmar? I am wondering if there are sources other than the Balmar conversion kit for the pulleys that are exclusive to the engine, like the water pump and the crankshaft.Bill ColemanC&C 39___

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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Question

[Bill via CnC-List]

Mine is a 73 also, and dollars to donuts, they are square steel plates. Rusted to shit.  Mine were 3/8 of an inch thick probably 4 by 4. I replace them with stainless steel ones, the same size. I like the heavy plate dispersing the load over a larger area. Probably what you should look into is where the water is coming from and keep it drier so you can keep it a little tidier.Also, Less moisture = less odors.Bill ColemanC&C 39On Mar 16, 2019 8:58 PM, "Steven A. Demore via CnC-List"  wrote:Hey folks,I pulled my mast for rebuild and upgrades, and while it is out, the step is being rebuilt.  I removed the stringers today and as suggested before, while putting it all back together, I will retighten the keel bolts.  The bilge is still black and full of grunge, but one thing I’ve wondered about since picking up the boat, is the nuts on the keel bolts.  There is something like a washer, but I can’t tell yet if it is wood or what.  They are big and square, and go from one side of the bilge to the other, segmenting the bilge into little sections between the bolts.  Each section forms a pool of water, keeping everything wet and preventing good drainage into the deep section where the pump is.   Can anybody tell me what those washer-like things are and whether they can be trimmed in width, to allow the water to flow freely?Thanks,Steve SV Doin’ It Right1973 C&C 30 MK1Pasadena, MD___

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

[Bill via CnC-List]

I'm guessing it's probably for a lightning rod. mine's got a whopping wire going up in it, and a great big copper pointy stick. Maybe the thinking is that it would carry the juice down The wire and into the keel & out, rather than frying all of the instruments and everything else. But I don't profess to know all of this electrical stuff much less lightning strikes, but apparently somebody thought it was worth while, so I left it there.Bill On Mar 11, 2019 2:44 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:I bet the PO had a "great" idea to put a wind generator on the masthead.  They used the mast as the ground and the red wire as power.  It explains the color, the gauge, and the length of both of the tail ends.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Sun, Mar 10, 2019, 11:15 PM Steven A. Demore via CnC-List  wrote:I have the mast of my C&C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced the wiring and found a cable I’m not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge stranded single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red insulation on it.  If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about 20 feet of cable coiled at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to the top of the mast, where it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum wouldn’t do?  I’m afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel bolt or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody have a picture of one and how it is mounted? Thanks,Steve SV Doin’ It Right1973 C&C 30 MK1Pasadena, MD ___

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Re: Stus-List foot pumps in galley

[Bill via CnC-List]

Thanks to many who replied. 
 
It seems that TMC (in Taiwan) is the manufacturer.  After a long search of 
the internet, it appears that the TMC foot pumps are  available in the U.S. 
from Five Oceans in Miami. I hope they are as well  made as they were in the 
80's...my salt-water pump (not specifically designed  for salt-water usage) 
lasted 31 years before developing a leak. Aside from  the leak, it still 
works!
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
Deltaville, VA.
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/22/2017 7:56:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 
In  2006 we replaced ours from 
TMC  International Industries Inc 
Diaphragm  foot pump TMC-70701 
Cost  was $43.00 
Google  indicates no web site but gives contact info 
5060  N Royal Atlanta Dr  
Tucker  GA  30084 
770-270-0828 
Best  of luck 
 
John  and Maryann 
Legacy  III 
1982  C&C 34 
Noank,  CT
 

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Re: Stus-List foot pumps in galley

[Bill via CnC-List]

Lloyd,
 
Good morning. It's good to hear from you. Are you back from  the Bahamas? A 
good time?
 
My three foot pumps are all black and, after a long  search of the 
internet, I found them to be from 5 Oceans. It appears that they  were not 
specifically designed for salt-water use, and my salt water pump has a  leak. 
The 
other two are fine. Not to bad...a pump not designed for  salt-water use 
lasting 31 years! 
 
The only difference I can see is that they are now white  instead of black.
 
MYSTY is now (finally) back in the water and we've actually  been day 
sailing. A pleasure after being on the hard for the last 3  years.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 7/21/2017 11:49:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 
 

Hello Bill,
 
My Landfall 39 has Whale foot pumps but they are all white.  Have  been 
very pleased with them
 
Lloyd Lippe
 
 





 
 

 
From: Bill via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 11:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bria...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List foot pumps in galley


 

 
Does anyone have an idea what brand the foot pumps (there  are 3) are in a 
1986 Landfall 39? 
 
It is black, and has no company name. The only label says  "Made in Taiwan."
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
 

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List foot pumps in galley

[Bill via CnC-List]

Does anyone have an idea what brand the foot pumps (there are  3) are in a 
1986 Landfall 39? 
 
It is black, and has no company name. The only label says  "Made in Taiwan."
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39___

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Re: Stus-List holey drawer pull-y thingies?

[Bill via CnC-List]

I believe they are "elbow catches" from PERKO, their  part number 
1021DP0BLK.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39
Deltaville, VA.
 
 
In a message dated 7/31/2016 8:51:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 
Greetings,


Who knows a source for  parts/replacements/etc. for the drawer pulls on our 
1978-vintage C&C 36?  Some of the springs and stuff are missing/broken.


Thank you,
Richard




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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill via CnC-List]

This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan  (120 VAC) on 
the inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still  can use 
the screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain  on 
the batteries.
 
Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.
 
The only problem is if it rains
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 
I  traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small  ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load 
on one side  L 
Joe 
Coquina 
NOTE  TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store 
 
!




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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

[Bill via CnC-List]

Mike,
 
Here's an idea for a simple check of the circuitjust  remove the wire 
from the end of the oil pressure sending switch on the engine  and connect it 
to a good ground. Turn on ignition, but don't start engine. The  low 
pressure light should light, and alarm should sound. 
 
If not, then you likely have a wiring problem. If you leave  the lead 
attached to ground and "wiggle" wires, you might find the problem area  easily.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39
 
 
In a message dated 8/10/2015 12:32:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 
Thanks  Martin 
The  engine sounded normal.  When I shut it down and checked the oil level 
it  was mid range in acceptable area on dip stick.  The engine compartment  
did not seem hot.  There was no sign of oil or coolant leakage.  Oil  level 
approx the same as when checked two weeks ago 
One  note that may be relevant is that the warning light and buzzer 
occasionally  does not come on when key is ON and engine Stopped.  Possible 
loose  
connection because a small jiggle of starter key area and it works  properly 
Mike 
 
 
From: CnC-List  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via  CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 1:24 PM
To:  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re:  Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

 
Was there any  noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube 
oil  pressure? 
It is an easy  and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install  it and test again with the engine at normal operating  temp. 
If you still  get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump. 
Martin 
Calypso 
1971 C&C  43 
Seattle 
 
  

 
 
From:  CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List  [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17  AM
To: _cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
Cc:  Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure  warning
 
 
Oil  changed in May. Used 15W 40 
Oil  level checked July 22 
300  mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2 
Yesterday  after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was  heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was 
still  there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on  
Yanmar panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and  
alarm sounded.  Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without  crashing) 
At  dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 
RPM  and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker 
(the  clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full 
illumination of  Oil pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and  
waited. 
A  few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by  
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
 stopped and light turned off. 
Any  thoughts?   
Boat  is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken 
with me in  advance






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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement

[Bill via CnC-List]

Doug,
 
I, too, would use the wench to raise my mainsail, but she won't do  it!
 
Bill
MYSTY
Landfall 39
 
 
In a message dated 12/3/2014 7:00:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 

I installed the Tides  track on Pegasus with my new main this year. I use 
the wench to get the main  up. No work for me.  Now wonder I am single. 
Doug 
Sv Pegasus LF38 hull  #4 
Living aboard in  Seattle. 
T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G  Network.
 
-- Original  message-- 
From: Alan  Bergen via CnC-List  
 
Date: Wed, Dec  3, 2014 15:36 
To: C&C  Photoalbum email list; 
Subject:Re:  Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement 
 
I replaced my spinnaker halyard sheaves with  sheaves from Zephyrwerks with 
excellent results.  To improve the hoisting  and dropping of the main, I 
installed a Strong Track from Tides Marine.   Expensive, but great 
performance.  Now when I let go of the main halyard,  the main comes down by 
itself.  
It goes up just as easily, but I haven't  found a way for it to go up by 
itself.



Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland,  OR





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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 4JH-TE Repower on C&C 44

[Bill via CnC-List]

Jon,
 
This might sound to easy, but could you have wrapped something around the  
prop shaft? 
 
I had a similar sounding experience when a piece of heavy line wrapped  
around the shaft. Had to clear it with a dive knife (took about 2 hours, 
working  with a flashlight) then restarted the engine and all was fine. I was  
bringing the boat up from Florida, and it happened in southern N.C., so I ran 
it  for many hours after without any issues.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
 
 
In a message dated 9/8/2014 9:11:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jonbooc...@gmail.com writes:

loud screeching noise for 1/2 second, followed by a big bang and  shudder 
and engine stopped  
seems to be seized hard
could be transmission let go and then something jammed and instantly  
stopped the engine, going about 2800 rpm




On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 9:08 AM, <_Briard6@aol.com_ (mailto:bria...@aol.com) 
> wrote:


Jon,
 
What went bang? Have you any idea of what failed?
 
Bill
 
MYSTY 
Landfall 39 (also has a 4JH-TE)
Virginia
 
 
In a message dated 9/8/2014 9:04:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com)  writes:

The Yanmar 4JH-TE on our C&C 44 went bang on the weekend.  It was the last 
thing on the boat that hadn't been replaced so in some  ways it is a relief 
to replace it. It is unclear whether we will go new or  remanufactured at 
this point.  
I have been appalled in the past at Canadian pricing on Yanmar parts  and I 
suspect complete engines would be the same. Nonetheless I will  probably 
get a quote from a Canadian dealer.
Who in the US would be recommended to get a quote from? We were happy  with 
Bay Shore Marine on our way through Annapolis, does anyone have  experience 
buying a complete engine from them?
Is there compatibility with engine mounts , exhaust etc between the  
various Yanmar models?
(4JH, 4JH2, 4JH3, 4JH4, 4JH5)
If so this could open up the number of potential replacements.
For remanufactured Schooner Bay Imports (Al Holzer) in WI seems to be  
highly recommended.
Our current model is 56 hp but I think anything above 46 hp would be  
sufficient so the non turbocharged versions would work fine and of course  the 
more recent non turbo versions have the same or higher  horsepower.
Any guidance on who to contact based on your experience would be  
appreciated.
Thanks, Jon


C&C 44 - (right now a big, heavy dinghy)
Mor' Childs Play 
Kingston ON





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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 4JH-TE Repower on C&C 44

[Bill via CnC-List]

Jon,
 
What went bang? Have you any idea of what failed?
 
Bill
 
MYSTY 
Landfall 39 (also has a 4JH-TE)
Virginia
 
 
In a message dated 9/8/2014 9:04:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

The Yanmar 4JH-TE on our C&C 44 went bang on the weekend. It  was the last 
thing on the boat that hadn't been replaced so in some ways it is  a relief 
to replace it. It is unclear whether we will go new or remanufactured  at 
this point.  
I have been appalled in the past at Canadian pricing on Yanmar parts and  I 
suspect complete engines would be the same. Nonetheless I will probably get 
 a quote from a Canadian dealer.
Who in the US would be recommended to get a quote from? We were happy  with 
Bay Shore Marine on our way through Annapolis, does anyone have  experience 
buying a complete engine from them?
Is there compatibility with engine mounts , exhaust etc between the  
various Yanmar models?
(4JH, 4JH2, 4JH3, 4JH4, 4JH5)
If so this could open up the number of potential replacements.
For remanufactured Schooner Bay Imports (Al Holzer) in WI seems to be  
highly recommended.
Our current model is 56 hp but I think anything above 46 hp would be  
sufficient so the non turbocharged versions would work fine and of course the  
more recent non turbo versions have the same or higher horsepower.
Any guidance on who to contact based on your experience would be  
appreciated.
Thanks, Jon


C&C 44 - (right now a big, heavy dinghy)
Mor' Childs Play 
Kingston ON





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Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Bill via CnC-List]

Paul,
 
My first boat had a Palmer P-60, a  flat-head 4 cylinder derived from an 
International Cub Cadet tractor engine, and  similar to the Atomic 4. It was 
raw-water cooled, and the boat was in salt  water. I had endless running 
problems with it over the years. The problems were  both electrical (ignition) 
and carburetor-related.
 
Conversion of the ignition system to  electronic ignition (no more points 
in the distributor) made a tremendous  improvement, but I still had 
carburetor issues. A real pain to remove it. 
 
I wondered when I bought the boat why  the previous owner had left me a 
box-end wrench cut in half. I soon found out  that there was no room to use a 
full-length wrench (or a socket) to remove  the carburetor bolts. It was so 
tight on that side of the engine that a  "half-wrench" was needed to remove 
the bolts.
 
After several years of trying everything  else, I finally decided to 
completely pump out the fuel tank. I found, at the  bottom of the 35-gallon 
tank, 
at least 1" of water which had apparently  accumulated over time. I have no 
idea why the water never showed up in the  various fuel filters I had tried 
over the years.
 
I completely cleaned the tank as best I  could, and refilled it with fresh 
fuel. I never had another problem with the  engine (other than head gaskets 
corroding and leaking, but that's another story)  over the next 10 years 
that I owned the boat.
 
Perhaps this "cure" will work for  you.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/5/2014 8:04:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

Paul

If the block is OK and you have good compression and  this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel  pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a  good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream  from the separator,
empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then  refill with fresh 
treated
fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the  boat. Take your time and
find a good mechanic that has experience with this  motor. Can't imagine 
that
would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less  than a refit to an outboard.
Just about any engine can be made to run  reliably. Since the advent of
ethanol, fuel has become a persistent  problem. Getting rid of the points
will remove the potential for a few  problems, too.

Just a suggestion. Good luck!

-Original  Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On  Behalf Of John
Pennie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 7:46  AM
To: Paul and Darlene Clarke; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re:  Stus-List follow-up on outboards

Paul:

I hear you and feel you  pain.  Been there.

Just don't underestimate the cost of the  outboard route.  Even with a
combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can't see  this being less than a 4k project
and will easily top 6k yard alone.   That includes removing the A4, removing
all the associated systems and  filling in some pretty big holes.  Beef up
the transom, buy an  electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine
controls.  None  of this will add a dime of value to your boat. 

Electric is interesting  but really doesn't like being away from dockside
power for more than a  night.  That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still
need to remove  many of the components and upgrade both your charging system
and  batteries.

Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range. at  least

At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to  a total
rebuild vs. time to sell.

Just an  opinion.

John


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