Stus-List Dodger and bimini

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Genco made a dodger and bimini for my 29 mk 2 last year. The dodger design is 
great. It is built with fixed supports from the coaming to the dodger frame. 
The dodger sides are completely removable and in fair weather it becomes a mini 
bimini over the companionway. The front window, corner windows and side windows 
can be zipped in any combination. With the front and corner panels installed, 
you have complete access to the foreward winches. As other have commented, I 
shifted the mainsheet bale about 1 foot aft to clear the back of the dodger. 
Very happy with their work.


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,Sent from Samsung Mobile___

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Stus-List Boom modifications

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

On my 29 mk 2, a previous owner modified the main sail to increase the boom 
height. The boom still attaches to the mast in the same location but the leach 
of the main was shortened to raise the aft end of the boom so it would clear a 
bimini. You wil lose some main sail area but this fix eliminates the need to 
move the goose neck. A sail maker can likely modify your main in a similar way.


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,Sent from Samsung Mobile___

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Stus-List Mast wiring - VHF cable

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I need to pull a new VHF wire up my mast in the spring. I see that there are 4 
different types of Coaxial cable. Any suggestions which is best for a 60 foot 
run from the radio to the top  of the mast? 


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,Sent from Samsung Mobile___

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Stus-List C cove stripe / stars

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

HMP in Mississauga, Ontario have "original" star & diamond emblems listed in 
their C parts. Available in gold, grey, white, black, red and baby blue. 
Click on C PARTS on the header lineof there home page - www.hollandmarine.com


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Stus-List Raymarine comnection with B

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I recently bought a Raymarine EVO 100 autopilot to add to my existing B 
Triton speed, depth, wind instruments. The EVO autohelm integrated with no 
issues ... it displays wind speed and direction and it will sail to an apparent 
wind angle (even triggers the alarm if there is a wind shift). I spent hours 
with both B and Raymarine tech support over the connection issue. The 
Raymarine and B "nema 2000" backbone cables must be connected "end to end". 
To achieve this you must cut one end off the Raymarine backbone cable and 
install a Maretron connector ($20) that will plug into the B backbone cable. 
The connector is a bit fiddly with tiny setscrews but it works perfectly and 
the 2 systems talk to each other.

Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,Sent from Samsung Mobile___

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Stus-List C 29-2 shaft

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

My 1985 (US built) 29-2 has a 7/8 inch prop shaft. Not sure of packing size.


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,29-2Flying ColoursPickering, ON___

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Stus-List Traveller for 29 mk 2

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

My 29-2 has a complete Harken traveller / main sheet system. I am not sure if 
it is original or retrofitted by a PO.There is a wooden spacer under the low 
profile traveller track. Traveller controls are end of track and work well from 
the wheel when single handing. The starboard traveller end sheaves are modified 
to clear the cockpit locker. Traveller car is not windward sheeting but I do 
not miss this (previous boat had windward sheeting). I can send photos if you 
want to see them.

Bob Hickson, P. ENG.C  29 mk 2Flying ColoursFrenchmans Bay (Lake Ontario)Sent 
from Samsung Mobile___

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Stus-List Raymarine EVO 100 wheel pilot with B and G

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I am about to install a Raymarine EVO 100 wheel pilot on my 29 mark 2. The 
speed, depth and wind instruments are B & G Triton. Does anyone know if these 2 
systems are "plug & play" compatible re the NEMA 2000 systems? Can I connect 
the wheel pilot to my existing backbone cable?


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Stus-List Refit of 29 mk 2 with Jabsco head

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I changed the OEM head to a Jabsco head on my 29-2 about 2 years ago.

My 29-2 is hull 693 / 1985 built in the US plant.

The old head was secured to the platform with stainless steel lag bolts
about 1.5 inches long.

To make the Jabsco unit fit / function properly, the following was
necessary.

-  Hand pump was reversed to the left side of the head

-  Even  with this change the base of the Jabsco hung over the edge
of the platform in the head. It needed to be shifted inboard so the seat
would flip up.

-  I fabricated a new, wider floor for the head out of ¾ inch
starboard. The new floor hangs over the inboard edge of the platform by
about 1.5 inches

-  New floor was fastened to the platform with stainless screws in
the corners

-  New Jabsco head was secured to the new starboard floor and
platform with stainless lag bolts about 2.5 inches long

The new head is very solid and has worked perfectly for the last 2 summers 

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com  

 

 

 

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Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,
Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a groove
along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
breezes.

Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
added over the joint.
I will update again with further information.
If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
glass cloth / epoxy.
If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
cloth epoxy.
I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
hair line crack in the leading edge.
The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading edge.


Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com





Message: 4
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
From: Bev Parslow 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
Message-ID:
<1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
Get rid of the wire??
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:



 

 



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Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of
the rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)

This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in
preparation for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading
edge.

When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the
starboard side.

The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and
over the full height of the rudder.

I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside
the rudder.

The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don't think
balsa coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and
dry foam in good condition.

There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in
diameter.

I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.

I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.

My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5
inches / second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.

I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my
way to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections
cured.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?

Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there
approximately location?

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com  

 

 

 

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Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I removed the grab rails off my 29-2 in the fall.Once I started stripping them, 
I realized that they are really thin from many years of sanding. I am looking 
for a shop in the Toronto Ontario area that can fabricate replacement grab 
rails from stainless steel.  Anybody have any suggestions?


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,Sent from Samsung Mobile___

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Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

A good friend is interested in making an offer on a 33 mark 2 centerboard 
version. The boat has a Yanmar 2GM20 with a 2 blade feathering prop - 16 Hp. 
This is the basically the same engine that I have in my 29 mk 2. It would seem 
that the boat would be underpowered with this engine. Does anyone have 
information that might help to answer this question. Did C offer an option of 
the 2GM or 3GM engine in this boat?
Bob Hickson Flying Colours 29 mk 2Toronto
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Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.

You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of
the hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into
the rudder.

The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the
port side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop
located on the center line of the hull

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Prop walk 29-2

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi Martin,

 

I bought a 29-2 in the US in the spring of 2012.

The original prop (think it was CC original) was a fixed 2 blade - Federal
Sailor 14RH9.

Prop walk was bad with this prop.

In the spring of 2013, I swapped the prop for a used CDI, 3 blade feathering
prop with a 13 inch diameter. This prop has an adjustable pitch and I do not
know what it is set at. The prop was purchased from another 29-2 owner and
the pitch was set up for the boat.

Performance with this prop is a huge improvement. Much more aggressive
thrust with the 3 blades in forward and reverse. The boat stops and
accelerates very quickly. Also a slight improvement in boat speed up to 6 -
6.5 knots with no issues even in strong headwinds and heavy seas.

Even with this prop, walk is still a concern.

You can manage it as others have suggested.

When backing out of my slip (requires turn to starboard) I give a very
strong burst of reverse (~5 seconds) to get the boat moving. Immediately
throttle back, shift into neutral and steer. If you lose way, another burst
of reverse may be needed.

When conditions are really bad with a strong cross wind from the port side,
I will back out of my slip to port and back down the fairway between slips
until I clear the docks and can turn.

When entering my slip, I angle in with the bow slightly to the port side. A
quick shot of reverse with very little throttle will straighten the boat in
the slip and stop it.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts and hull cracks

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi Derek,

 

I purchased a 29-2 in 2012 - 1985 hull 693.

In have looked at a lot of 29-2's over the last few years.

Most do not have any signs of cracks in the hulls either below the waterline
or above.

I have seen a couple with cracks radiating out from the forward edge and
trailing edge of the keel.

In my opinion, this indicates a hard grounding of the boat. The worst
example of hull cracks still had a lot of damage to the front of the keel
that had not been repaired. The damage had obviously been caused by a hard
grounding on rocks. I would recommend that you pick a couple of the worst
cracks and scrape a narrow band until you reach the bottom of the crack. If
the cracks extend through the gelcoat into the fiberglass layup then I would
have a surveyor check the boat. If they are superficial and do not extend
into the layup then they are mainly a cosmetic / water ingress issue.

I grounded my 29-2 in a channel that was being dredged in 2013. The boat hit
a pile of sand left in the channel by the dredge and stopped dead in the
water from a speed of 5.5 knots.

After the grounding the keel bolts started to leak.

When I removed the nut and washer from one of the large keel bolts, I was
surprised to see the same large clearance with no filler around the bolt
with water pouring in through the gap.

The boat went to Wiggers in Bowmanville. They dropped the keel and rebedded
it.

Turns out the previous owner had dropped the keel and rebedded it in epoxy
rather than sealant. Wiggers said the shock from the grounding had
delaminated this layer of epoxy bedding and caused the leaks.

Wiggers rebedded the keel with Sikaflex and it has been trouble free with mo
CC smile.

 

The forward keel bolt / mast step is a know weakness in the 29-2. The large
void under the mast step and in the forward part of the stub keel is filled
with a hard foam.

I suggest that you drill exploratory holes in the front side of the bilge
sump into the foam filled void under the mast. If water comes out of the
holes, you have a problem. My boat has 3 drain holes from the bilge sump
into this area. I periodically probe into the foam filled void with a wire
to make sure that it is dry.

 

Are you in the east end or west end of Toronto.

I am in the east and would be happy to look at your boat if you want

 

 

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Viking 34 for sale on Lake Ontario (Toronto)

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

A good friend at the yacht club is selling his boat for health reasons.

This boat has been well maintained and I promised to put it on the cnc-list
for him.

Boat is on the hard and it was surveyed last year.

Contact the owner direct via the email at the bottom of the post.

 

Details are as follows;

 

1977 Viking 34 for Sale

Equipped for racing and Cruising

Recent professional bottom epoxy 

Recent professional hull painted

Wheel Steering

Price $27,500.

 

Contact jodv...@gmail.com

 

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List CC 29mark 2 information

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi Bob,

 

Over the last few years, I have accumulated a fairly long list of CC 29's
mark 1 and 2.

 

Based on the hull numbers that owners have sent me my guesses are as
follows;

 

CC 29 mark 1 - built 1976 to 1982 - hull numbers on my list range from 6 to
613.

Estimated number of mark 1 built ~600

 

CC 29 mark 2 - built 1982 to 1985 - hull numbers on my list range from 201
to 702.

Estimated number of mark 2 built ~500

Mark 2's were built in both plants in NOTL and the Rhode Island plant

 

If you send additional info off list I will add you to the list and send a
copy of the list to you

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List CC 29 Association - Facebook link

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

To anyone interested, the following link will take you to the CC 29
Association Facebook page.

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/cnc29members/

 

Go to this page and send an email requesting to join the group.

We would be happy to have you join us.

The Annual Association Meeting is being held at the end of March.details on
the Facebook page.

 

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List List or forum

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

My 5 cents worth . it is contrary to the comments that I am seeing.

 

I would like to see a change to a forum if it can be done.

 

The vast majority of the items on the list are personal comments that are
only indirectly CC related.

A searchable forum would be far more useful in terms of sharing useful
information.

 

If some members want a Facebook type list why not form a CLOSED CC
Facebook group (this is type of Facebook is open only by invitation).

The CC 29 Association has a closed Facebook group (this is the only reason
that I have a Facebook account)

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Datamarine instruments (1985) for sale

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

A have a complete set of original Datamarine instruments for sale. 

Includes speed / depth, wind, remote cabin panel and all the cables needed

They were removed from my 1985 CC 29-2.

You can see them and get more detail at the following Kijiji link

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-boat-parts-trailer-accessories/city-of-toronto/datama
rine-sailing-instruments-for-sale/1042769857?src=topAdSearch

 

Items located in Toronto Canada. Willing to ship at buyers expense 

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Dropping your keel and rebedding

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

In my personal experience, I would STRONGLY advise against rebedding your
keel in epoxy.

In the spring of 2013, while exiting the channel from the Yacht Club into
Lake Ontario my 29-2 hit a lump of sand that a dredging contractor had
left in the middle of the channel. Boat was motoring at 5.5 knots when we
hit and it stopped virtually dead in the water . crew was thrown off their
feet by the impact.

Within a couple of days, the boat started to leak around the keel bolts.
When the keel was dropped by Wiggers, they found that the previous owner had
dropped the keel and rebedded it with epoxy. The impact on the sand had
cracked the epoxy bedding and allowed LOTS of water to leak into the hull.
They rebedded the keel with Sikaflex and I have had no problems since. 

Moral, the epoxy is brittle with no give and any impact can break the
hull / keel joint .. Flexible sealant is the best way to do this job

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List CC rudder replacement

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

This company in Ottawa, Ontario Canada makes new CC rudders.

 

http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/cc/

 

They have a CC 33 rudder listed at ~$3000 . not sure if it is for a mark 1
or mark 2.

Freight could be a problem.

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Adjustable prop

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I have an older,  three blade, CD feathering prop on my 29-2.

The boat will motor at 6 to 6.5 knots at 2800 RPM under most conditions.

I usually run at 2600 RPM with a boat speed of ~ 6 knots.

Last summer when trying to re-enter Frenchmans Bay with a headwind of 25 to
35 knots and a moderate chop (offshore wind) the best that I could get was
3.5 to 4 knots.

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 

 

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Stus-List C C 29 m2

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi Keith,

I purchased a 29 mark 2 in 2012 and had a cradle made by Marine Cradle Shop
in Sutton (north of Toronto, ON).
Shipping would likely be too expensive to Calgary.
If you contact me off list, I can send photographs and dimensions.

I have a list of 29 owners and I will add you to the list if you want ...
send the Hull Identification number if you have it.
To the best of my knowledge 400 to 500 mark 2's were built in Niagara on the
Lake and Middleton

Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com

--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2014 07:51:17 -0700
From: David Donnelly da...@gnuattitude.ca
To: Stu stumurra...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: 1983 C7C 29 MkII
Message-ID: m0u7qip2nvnb2ex15f23o6w5.1412693477...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Hi Keith. Where are you purchasing the boat? I got my boat in Manitoba 2
years ago and had a trailer made there. The company that built it, Saturn
Trailer, sent a guy who took measurements and placed the posts right on the
bulkheads and stiff areas. I was very happy. There were alot of 29's there,
they may already have built a trailer and could build you one easily from
existing plans. Let me know if you want any contact information. I think the
example of their work I saw was a 29 come to think of it.

David Donnelly
CC 26 Mistress


Sent from Samsung Mobile

div Original message /divdivFrom: Stu via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:10-07-2014  6:34 AM  (GMT-07:00)
/divdivTo: CC Email List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject:
Stus-List Fw: 1983 C7C 29 MkII /divdiv /divHello,

I am about to purchase a 1985 CC 29 MkII, and wish to obtain an accurate
longitudinal Cross-section drawing of this craft in order to construct a
trailer.

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Keith Deller,
Calgary AB


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Stus-List Smelly Head and Tank

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I have an identical CC 29 mk 2 that I purchased in 2012.

I replaced the head the first year as it was in very bad condition.

Last year, I replaced all the hoses between the head and the tank and
cleaned out the tank. 

This reduced the smell but did not eliminate it.

Earlier this year, I replaced the vent hose and cleaned out the thru hull
breather vent (full of spider webs).

The vent hose that I installed was ¾ inch and it needed different fittings
at the tank and vent ends.

Once this was completed, the smells have totally disappeared in the cabin.

There is still a lingering odour in the 2 small bow lockers adjacent to the
tank.

Mine boat is a fresh water boat.

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

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Stus-List 29 mk 2 hood / hatch

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I removed the fiberglass hood on my 29 mk 2. 

It lifts straight off the cabin top when you remove all the screws around
the perimeter.

When the hood is removed, the plexiglass sliding hatch lifts off the teak
runners and you should be able to refinish them with no trouble.

Make sure that you fill the holes in the cabin top with sealant before you
screw it back down ... you will have leaks if you do not reseal the screws

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Stus-List C and C 29 mk 2 spinnaker

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

You might be interested in the CC 29 Owners Association group on Facebook


https://www.facebook.com/groups/cnc29members/

Make sure you check out the tabs across the top for photos 29's with chutes,
information including a boat list .

Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
CC 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com

 __/) 


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 10:27:57 -0400
From: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
To: Pbbother pbbot...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Spinnaker
Message-ID: CC5FE923206545DD87257790D6B3431D@GaryPC
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

It is no more of a hassle to fly a symmetrical chute on a 29 than it is on
the J-24 (I have a 30-1 that I race every now and then and race on a J-24
each week). It is just bigger. You will probably need an additional person
(we use 5 on the 30 and 4 on the 24). An adjustable spin track on the mast
would be useful. The inner stay can be made to be easily disconnected.

If the boat doesn't have a pole, track, extra winches, then you could
consider one of those deck mounted extendable poles and fly an asymmetrical
chute.

It is interestingthe PHRF for a 29 is most likely higher numerically
than the J-24. Around here, the 24 is 171 and a 29 is around 180.

But, it is a lot more cruising friendly and powerful.

Gary
30-1, J-24 on Friday, J-80 on Wednesday

- Original Message -
From: Pbbother via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:10 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC 29-2 Spinnaker


I am considering buying a CC 29-2 (1983) and would like to know how/if a 
symmetrical spinnaker would work on these boats. I am looking at a boat 
nearby, but it only has a cruising asymmetrical spinnaker.  My current boat

is a J/24 and I am looking for something a little more comfortable but also

performance oriented. Since I have a crew for racing on the J/24, we would 
also want to set a spinnaker on the CC.  The problem is the baby/inner 
stay that bisects the fore deck. Yes, I understand that we could disconnect

it for the downwind leg, but that seems to be added complexity that I would

rather avoid. The concern that I have is that the only photo of a 
symmetrical spinnaker I can find on the WEB is the original sales brochure.

So, I am thinking its just a big hassle to fly a symmetrical on these 
boats. Any thoughts?
 -Ken


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Stus-List 29-2 Cockpit floor rudder bushing

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

I seem to have some movement between the top of the rudder shaft and the
large flange mounted on the cockpit floor.

There is no movement of the flange on the cockpit floor.

I am guessing that there is a plastic bushing located in this flange that is
worn.

Has anyone pulled the cap off the flange in the cockpit floor?

If so, is my assumption about the plastic bushing correct?

I will wait until fall haulout to investigate as the amount of movement is
minor at this time

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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