Re: Stus-List Changing list settings

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Create a rule (in whatever you use to read your emails or, better yet, in Gmail 
itself) to deliver all messages from the “C List” to a dedicated folder. Then 
delete everything from that folder after reading messages that you are 
interested in (most of them??).

To change to Digest mode, visit http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ and select 
“Subscribe” in the right margin (under Email Discussion List)

Good luck

Marek


From: Justin Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 09:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Justin Drößler-Kreuser 
Subject: Stus-List Changing list settings

Now that my phone is completely overloaded with list emails, how do I go about 
getting rid of them all and changing it to the setting so I only get my mails 
plus a daily compilation ? Thanks

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

I think that burping is no longer required since there is a vent in the PSS (??)

Marek

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I have had the PSS shaft seal since about 1987 or so. I am on my second one, 
when I had a bent shaft replaced a few years ago the yard swapped it out for a 
new one. The original had started to leak after 20+ years.
I have been happy with it so far. The only maintenance it needs has been 
burping the air out after scuba diving under the boat and making sure the hose 
is adjusted right after an engine replacement. 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

 

Patrick,

 

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

 

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don’t have it.

 

I don’t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way – you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

 

Marek Dziedzic

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52

To: C List 

Cc: Josh Muckley 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

 

I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another 
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward 
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old. 
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year 
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension 
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS 
when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and I 
searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes. 

 

My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged. 

 

I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then I 
should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing doesn't 
need replacing) and get a new stuffing box. 

 

I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the same 
as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded obviously. 

 

Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style packing 
box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop shafts 
smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my preference. 

 

PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats: 

 

- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. I 
don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which should 
last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if it's 10 
years. 

- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

 

I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it regularly. 
Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an engine, and has 
it been a good decision?

 

-Patrick

1984 C Landfall 38

Seattle, WA

 

 

 


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This list is supported by the generous d

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don’t have it.

I don’t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way – you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another 
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward 
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old. 
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year 
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension 
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS 
when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and 
I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes. 


  My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged. 

  I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then 
I should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing 
doesn't need replacing) and get a new stuffing box. 

  I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the 
same as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded 
obviously. 

  Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style 
packing box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop 
shafts smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my 
preference. 

  PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats: 

  - replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. 
I don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which 
should last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if 
it's 10 years. 
  - PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

  I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it 
regularly. Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an 
engine, and has it been a good decision?

  -Patrick
  1984 C Landfall 38
  Seattle, WA




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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

they are great, but not that cheap. But you get what you pay for.

Marek

From: Phygital via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 09:52
To: kenhea...@gmail.com 
Cc: Phygital ; cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

Thanks Ken. Great consensus around Andrews Trucking. I'll surely contact them 
today.

Thanks all!



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Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Actually, the #2 reason still applies (I guess depending on the lake/river). I 
sail on a river and there is enough organic matter in the water that it makes a 
lot of sense to flush the head with fresh water before leaving, even for a few 
days.

I don’t have this configuration, but I know many people who do. I use left over 
bottled water and it works, as well.

I am actually thinking about re-plumbing my head this way; however, I am not 
sure how well it would work for using the outboard water. In order to pump 
water into the head, you need some suction, but with the sink drain on the 
other end of the run, you should suck in mostly air. I guess you need to have 
the drain closed by a stopper, don’t you?

Any comments on how it works in real life?

Marek

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 23:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing


Hi Randy,

This is the way I plumb my head basin & toilet intake many years ago. 

The reasons are two-fold, I eliminated an unnecessary thru-hull penetration and 
if we're going to be away form the boat for a couple of weeks or more, I pump a 
1/2 sink of fresh water through the toilet to eliminate standing water 
containing organics (sea water) which will yield a sulphur aroma on first use 
when we return (due to decomposition of said organics).

If you're a lake sailor the reason #2 doesn't apply much.  My basin 
drain/toilet intake thru-hull valve stays open when we're aboard, sailing or 
not.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 08:04 PM 18/04/2016, you wrote:

  Listers-

  If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.

  The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.  The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard discharge).

  It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink 
drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water 
into the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink 
drain.  When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock 
open, I could pump raw water into the head.

  Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

  Thanks,
  Randy
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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

For all the information on head maintenance and hose replacement look up the 
Sailboats Owners forum and look for Peggy Hall’s special forum. If you can’t 
find the information there, it does not exist (or you don’t need it). 
Alternatively buy her book. I bet it is worth every penny.

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 13:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List head hoses

I'm just in the process of replacing all the hoses for the head and fuel fill 
due to permeation.

I've got some of that old boat smell happening and I'm attacking whatever might 
be involved.  

I used the Trident 101 & 102 hose (only difference is one is white and one is 
black).  It is pretty stiff and a little hard to deal with but, from what I've 
read, it's the best at fighting permeation.

I managed to get all the old hoses removed and all the new 1-1/2 inch stuff re 
piped this weekend. I also added some PVC pipe to raise the pump out hose 
connection above the tank.  It was an exercise in contortion-ism and patients 
but, at least the hard part is done.  I did use a heat gun and dish soap the 
help get the hose on the barbs.  You could also use some boiled water as 
someone here suggested to me.  I just happened to have a heat gun so I tried 
that first and it worked well.

Now, I just have to add the vent outlets to the tank and the vent lines to the 
2 new thru-hull vent fittings! 

Sanitation Hose is not cheap.  If it is, it probably doesn't control odor very 
well. 

Google PegHall and sanitation hose.  She has the nickname of the Headmistress.  
She is the leading authority on all thing marine head related and has posted 
all over many boating forums on marine sanitation issues.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List head hoses
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 12:56:20 -0400


Raritan makes the most flexible sanitary hose I have seen.   

Joel


On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:53 PM, David Platt via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  The stuff you took out is probably exhaust hose.  C seemed to use it 
everywhere back in the day.  You local marine supply store can sell you an 
appropriate sanitary hose that will be mush easier to work with and that will 
be impermeable to odours - assuming you tighten the clamps properly.  Borrow a 
heat gun to make the stuff more pliable when required.

  Cheers

  david
  C 32 Wanderer
  Bonte ON 



  On 2016-04-11 12:47 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it out.  
It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with other stuff.   
After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, I was unable to get it 
back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff and difficult to work back in 
place with the anti syphon valve. Disassembling it from the valve was not 
workable, as I could not reach it to reassemble.

I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the 
rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

If you really need one-handed adjustment, you can put a bit less friction on 
the balls (I know that it does not read that well) – it is adjustable on the 
arm - and you could move the device around. On the other hand, you should never 
be that busy on the boat that you could not spare a moment to adjust the 
display (;-). I use much shorter arm (3”? 4”?), so it is easier to do.

Marek

From: Brad via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 22:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: lumg...@hotmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List Swivel pod for Chartplotter

+1 on the Ram Mount, i bought the midsized balls and the 9 (I think) inch arm. 
Its not one handed to move and it stays pretty much where you set it. The size 
of your plotter affects the size of the mount, I have an a95 Raymarine. Its 
heavy on the end of the mount, so go big.
Brad
Pulse C 33 MkII
Lake Huron

Sent miraculously through cyberspace from my smartphone 

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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

My single line reefing works almost exactly as you describe (at the mast end, 
the line goes down to the mast collar, then up to the reefing cringle (actually 
a dog bone there)). The only difference is that I have a car inside the boom, 
so the line is split. It works just fine. You can reef from the cockpit, 
without leaving it. The real main advantage is that you just crank it up and 
eventually it is done; no need to adjust this then something else. This might 
be an advantage for larger sails (larger boats).

Not that I am a single-line reefing advocate (or that the fact that I use it is 
an argument for it).

The main arguments for two-line reefing is that it is simpler; does not require 
any modifications to the boom and potentially allows for a better shape of the 
reefed sail. You don’t even need a line up front if you have a gooseneck 
reefing hook.

Marek

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 14:24
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

Awesome guys! Thanks everyone for the input. It looks like "that's just the way 
it is". Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with anything earth 
shatteringly better. 

As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in the 
boom. Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner so I'll 
probably stick with a tied on method. 

Does anybody have any thoughts on using a soft shackle and an eye splice to 
attach the reefing lines around the boom?

I was also considering a single line reefing system. One challenge is that 
where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the 
reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes extends 
to the mast as well. So if I tried a single line reef, it would have the line 
turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but instead of simply 
running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line would run back up to the 
reef cringle, and back down on the other side of the boom to another turning 
block which would lead back to the winch and cleat where it would finish.

Thoughts on my plan?

Thoughts on single line reefing? I've heard some pretty strong arguments 
against and only a few advocates.

Thanks again, 
Josh

On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  >...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

  Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom. I still tie 
the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

  The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.

  Best regards,

  Martin
  Calypso
  1971 C 43
  Seattle

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie 
Epstein via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Robbie Epstein
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

  My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a 
Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can 
position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points. The 
reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing cringle 
you want to use.

  Robbie Epstein

  1980 C 40


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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

The only thing I would suggest is to use some pad-eye under the boom or some 
other way to make sure that the line around the boom cannot slide forward. It 
has to work as an outhaul, as well.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 10:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

At a recent LOOR night Geoff Moore from North Sails spoke about sails and trim
for the "offshore" races. His recommendation was to have the reefing line tied
around the boom.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



  Josh 

  The 2007 C that we race and the 2008 C that I sail on both are just 
tied around the boom.  I think that more or less says this is still how it is 
done.  Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom.  No wear on 
paint on the two C and the wear I see on the Frers boom is not from the reef 
line. 

  Mike 
  Persistence 
  1987 Frers 33 
  Halifax, NS 
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Re: Stus-List now: tablets with/without GPS

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Again splitting hair, but a lot of Android and Windows tablet come with GPS, 
but no cellular radio. An 8” can be had easily for under $300 or even around 
$100 (lately, Costco had one for sale at $99 CAD (Acer 8” Android with GPS 
included)). Only Apple ties the GPS with the cellular radio; most of the other 
vendors don’t.

Older Samsun tablets used a proprietary connector (trying to out-Apple Apple?); 
this is no longer the case. Some tablets use a MicroUSB for charging (5 V, 
usually around 2 A) others, especially the 10-11” ones, use a dedicated power 
plug/port. These latter ones might be tricky on the boat, because they can use 
a different voltage (12 V, 17 V, anything) and this might require a special 
adapter or powering them through an inverter. But there are enough options 
available for tablets powered using the USB (5 V). Keep in mind that if your 
tablet uses the USB port for powering/charging, it may be impossible to connect 
a USB device to it at the same time.

Btw. for those who may not know this, most tablets (and smartphones) with a 
MicroUSB connector (this excludes any iPad)can be used with just about any low 
power USB device. You need a USB2Go cable and that’s it.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 17:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca 
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS

Only some tablets have cellular network capability, and if they do not, then 
they are not likely to have GPS built in either. I bought a 10 inch Samsung Tab 
2 that has LTE capability, and it does work as a chart plotter, but only as 
good as the software down loaded. Hard to find cables for the Tab 2 by the way. 
The 30 pin connector is not the same as on the I-phone-pad stuff. 

I was disappointed that a tablet with LTE connectivity could not be used as a 
cell phone. That decision by the manufacturers is marketing, and not technical. 
Yeah I know there is Skype etc., but it would be handy to make regular phone 
calls with a headset and a large screen. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL
 


 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 
I was just poking around with an Ipad at Costco this weekend, a big one, at
least 13 inches.  This was not being sold through a Cell company.
I could not find any GPS in the settings.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA




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Re: Stus-List GPS

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

That would be difficult – there are too many. 

On the Apple side, it is easy – you need GSM (cellular) enabled iPad (no 
cellular plan is needed), but the module is shared between the GSM(HSUPA/LTE) 
and GPS.

On the Android side – look for the specs. If it says GPS – yes, it is good, if 
it says – no, don’t buy it; if it says “assisted GPS” don’t buy it , either, it 
means that it needs cellular signal to find itself.

Marek


From: Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 08:33
To: Robert Mazza via CnC-List 
Cc: Elizabeth McDonald 
Subject: Stus-List GPS

Someone had posted a list of tablets that had GPS built in, that did not need 
phone service .  Could you list them again, please!
Jim McDonald

C 44
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John, NB

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List GPS

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Rick,

This is a bit of splitting hairs, but your statement is not entirely correct. 
You can easily have a cellular-enabled tablet without the GPS (even if it 
unlikely, especially lately), as much as you can have a Wi-Fi only tablet with 
GPS included.

However, for iPads (which by no means constitute the majority of tablets) that 
is true – if you have cellular-enabled iPad, you will get the GPS; if you 
don’t, you won’t.

Marek


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 11:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS

Any tablet that is capable of getting cellular data must have an internal GPS, 
just like a cell phone. There does not need to be a cellular data link for the 
internal GPS to work.

I'm sending this message on an older iPad that has never been connected to a 
cellular network.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Erik,

the biggest mistake you can make is to hit the shaft with the slide-hammer, 
while it is still attached to the transmission (I hear that transmissions don’t 
like this).

Depending on your abilities, the second biggest mistake might be to do it 
yourself. I think that the task is reasonably straight forward, but this does 
not mean easy.

Marek
C270, Legato
Ottawa

From: Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 12:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Erik Hillenmeyer 
Subject: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.

How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.  

Erik 
C 35-3___

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Re: Stus-List message management

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Blair,

- create a folder in Hotmail. You can do it through the web interface or on 
your computer (using Outlook or Live Mail). I don’t think Win 10 Mail would let 
you and for sure any of the Android Email apps won’t.

- go to Hotmail using web interface (browser). The only way to set up rules is 
while you are online at Hotmail (Outlook.com)

- once you logged in, go to Settings (little cog wheel to the right of the 
Skype icon and to the left of your name). There is a “Manage rules” option 
there. Select it.

- You will have to create a new rule. press on “New”.

- your new rule will have to be “If sender contains: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
then move to CnC” (where CnC is the name of the folder you created in step 1)

- you are done

- you may want to switch from digest to individual emails at cncphotoalbum

Marek

From: Blair Clark via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 09:58
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Blair Clark ; Dreuge 
Subject: Stus-List message management

Hello,



A while ago I saw a description on how to set up a folder in Hotmail on how to 
automatically have all incoming 

stu list emails go to a separate folder.



Can someone share with me how to do this?



Thanks

Blair Clark 902-423-4651 







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Re: Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Oh, rub it in. We had some freezing rain this morning.

Marek
in Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 09:57
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist

The weather is warming up. Time to get your boat ready to sail!

Don't know about the rest of you but I'm going sailing today!


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List solar power setup

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

There were multiple discussions on merits of adjusting the panel and the 
general consensus is that a fixed panel is good enough and often better than an 
adjustable one, because half of the time, it is incorrectly adjusted.

Some discussion here: 
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/solar-panel.177361/, 
including discussions on how to install it.

But no question, start with Maine Sail’s web site.

Btw. in order to just maintain (or top up) your batteries, you don’t need a 50 
W panel; half of that would probably do. You would need that or more if you 
plan to spend a few days at an anchor.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 11:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Stevan Plavsa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List solar power setup

That morningstar controller really is inexpensive. Nice find. 

Richard, maybe this will be helpful to you:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel


Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 10:21 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I can’t get photos – I am off on a trip right now. The panel is not mounted 
to anything, I just put it out in different place depending on the sun. If you 
don’t move it, sooner or later it gets on the wrong side or a shadow goes 
across it. I don’t use it in the slip – I have shorepower – but I do use it on 
my mooring. I usually put it on the foredeck when I am gone.

  Joe

  Coquina


  From: Richard N. Bush [mailto:bushma...@aol.com] 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 10:19 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe
  Subject: Re: Stus-List solar power setup


  Joe, thank you for the solar equipment listings; I would like to duplicate 
your setup on my boat; Where and how have you installed the solar panel? Do you 
leave it up all the time? (as opposed to weekends only, etc) DO you have to 
orient the panel toward the sun or do you just leave it? Any available photos 
would be great, Many thanks 


  Richard

  1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596

  Richard N. Bush
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255



  -Original Message-
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2016 9:50 am
  Subject: Stus-List solar power setup

  Someone asked me about my solar panel setup.

  I have one of these – a 50 watt panel: 
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1456843564=8-1=renogy+50+watt

  I have this controller 
-http://www.amazon.com/SunGuard-Charge-Controller-Regulator-Morningstar/dp/B000O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1456843683=8-3=morningstar+solar

  I have the panel on a long cord and plug it in to a trolling motor plug when 
using it. It does a good job with the batteries when I am on my mooring.

  Joe

  Coquina C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Sail loft service

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

I would at least measure the luff length. If they made a mistake (and they do 
happen), you want to catch it early and have them redo the sail (one would only 
hope that the mistake was on their part, not yours). If the luff is too long, 
the sail is useless and you want to know that part asap. The rest will show up 
on the rigging day. Or the first sailing day. Or even later.

good luck

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service

They sent me a form with diagrams of what they wanted and tips on how to get 
them.  They also had me take as high a definition photo from the side of the 
boat, fully rigged and used that, scaled it and double checked all of my 
measurments to the scaled photo.  Scaling a photo can be surprisingly accurate. 
 I do this to study existing spaces all the time and there are plenty of 
software that allow you to calibrate the photo and take measurements.

Of course, the real test will not come for a couple of months.  I did feel 
there was some room for interpolation as, I don't race.  I'm  not overly fussy 
when it comes to sail shape.  If she isn't luffing and the tell tales seem to 
be doing what they should, I'm happy as long as the boat is moving along.

I am a bit concerned about spreader patches, they just send stick on patches.

-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: "C List" 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 11:48:07 -0500


Danny,

I am curious as to the measurement process.  What did you measure and how did 
you know how/what to measure.

While watching my loft take measurements for the headsail, I was shocked at the 
different measurements he took.  Each spreader, radar, babystay.  Those are 
just a few which I would have trouble describing let alone understanding the 
measurement desired.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Sail loft service

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

I guess you are lucky to have some local presence. I wish I had two lofts 
within an hour drive.

When I got my new sails I looked really wide (from Far East to a local rep for 
Doyle). The local rep’s price was ridiculous (almost 2x what I eventually paid) 
and he did not offer the advantages of a local loft (he would just take the 
order).  I went with Somerset Sails in NY (outside of Buffalo). They offered a 
competitive price, good quality and, what made the deal, he was willing to talk 
to me at length about what I want and need. He offered several suggestions and 
he accepted a bunch of my ideas. I am happy with the sails. And they were made 
in NA, if it means anything (at least, I am supporting a local business, even 
if it is not that local).

But this is a very personal matter. One wants a sail that is a high-end racing 
sail and it can cost $5k and this does not matter. Another prefers to buy a 
cheap sail for under $1k and it works for him, as well.

As someone says: “your boat, your choice”.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Sail loft service

I echo Mike's experience with the local sail lofts here.I have also had 
nothing but excellent service and relations with both Doyle and North over the 
years.

It's the people that make the difference and the people at both lofts here are 
very connected to the local sailing community..they know many of us on a 
first name basis.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2016-02-25 11:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

  Steve


  I am glad to hear that you had a positive experience with your overseas loft. 
I am also very dismayed to hear of your experiences with your local sailmakers


  I would like to say that in the last 17 years of boat ownership we have had 
nothing short of excellent service and relations with the local lofts in 
Halifax. We have dealt with both Doyle in Dartmouth and North Sails Atlantic in 
Halifax. The friendliness, turnaround and workmanship of both have been first 
rate. 


  Unfortunately I will have to win a lottery before I can by any more sails.

  Fortunately I do not currently need any more


  Mike

  Persistence

  Halifax, NS


  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:57 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Stevan Plavsa
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Got a New 135% Head Sail


  I purchased a Rolly Tasker 155 a couple of years ago for Suhana. It's a good 
sail but like the OP, I have nothing to compare it against except the original 
genoa which was deteriorating. So, leagues better than what I had. It was $1600 
shipped to my door from Thailand and arrived two weeks after I placed the 
order. The local lofts all wanted about double for same/similar features and a 
lot more time.


  Here's the rub and here's where I disagree with people on this list and 
others that tout the "support" and "cusomter service" of the local guys. I was 
treated better by the foreign sail loft. They answered my emails in a timely 
way, they were polite and interested. The locals, almost all of them, had a 
standoffish, almost arrogant attitude and they were slow to provide pricing and 
email replies. to me, that's terrible customer service. First and foremost, I 
want to be treated like a valued customer and that starts with the first hello, 
it doesn't start after I open my checkbook and they come out to my boat. 


  No thanks.


  Steve

  Suhana, C 32

  Toronto


   

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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

To add to Francois’s list of references I would like to include one of the best 
(easiest to read) books by Don Guillette “The Sail Trim User’s Guide” 
(http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html directly from him 
or in SBO http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?51998/). Might be the best 
$25 you ever spend on boat improvements.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON___

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Main Sail’s tape is the best (;-). 
Compass Marine in Maine (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)

Marek


From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2016 10:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape

I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.

Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for 
thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC




cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Have you considered Kiwi prop? I don’t have the first hand experience, but the 
tests suggest that it is in the middle of the pack for prop walk and reverse 
pull and it is, usually, substantially cheaper than the Gori or Max-Prop.

And, as usual, the best is to check the actual test results, e.g. here: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807.
 Please be aware that the original test was done in 2009, though I am not sure 
if much has changed since. The same test is available as a PDF from Flexofold 
web site (here: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/). I guess they liked 
what they saw there.

Marek

From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2016 12:17
To: Chuck S via CnC-List 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

Chuck,

 

I had a 2 blade Gori on my Catalina, the gears were a lot more exposed on that 
model.  This one, they are out in the open but not nearly so prominent.  
Maintenance is no more than any other folding prop as far as I can tell.  
Primarily zinc replacement and a good cleaning once in a while at least in 
fresh water.

 

Prop walk can be an advantage, though it never seemed to be the right direction 
for us for the slips we have been in.  The Gori definitely has far less of it 
compared to the Martec it replaced.

 

Jim

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 4:57 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

 

Jim, 

I liked the engineering on the Gori, but didn't like all the exposed gears.  
Maybe your model is different than what I looked at?  What's the annual 
maintenance like?

IIRC, I was told prop walk is caused by the angle of the shaft, and you should 
have it with any prop if your shaft is angled down like most keelboats.  A 
saildrive has the least propwalk, because the shaft is level.  Propwalk is not 
a bad thing.  It helps turn the boat and can be a big help when docking.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md





From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Jim Reinardy" 
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 2:49:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.



Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop

On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a 
Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail 
for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?



  On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two 
blade 16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade 
Maxprop. Less vibration.



Doug Allardyce

C 35-III

"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/)

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jake Brodersen
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

  Sam,



  My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the 
blades flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the 
prop does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and 
has never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.



  Jake

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Mark,

+1 on rebedding the chainplates. I don’t know how they look like on a C 25, 
but on a 24 they need rebedding every two-three years. However, even though I 
used 3M 4200 the last time I did it, I would recommend using butyl tape, 
instead of 4200. One of the best sources is Compass Marine (Main Sail) 
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape).

Marek
C270 “Legato”
ex. C 24 “Fennel”
Ottawa, ON

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 08:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Mark,

Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 
since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, day 
sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the outboard and upgrading 
from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to reinforce the 
transom behind the outboard mount. I upgraded from a 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail 
Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 4 stroke on the market) 
and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around the motor mount caused by 
the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay. And my 
transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the 
outboard mount that is far larger than the mount. Bottom line, the transom of 
these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards. I 
would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for 
charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when 
you need to get the motor running NOW. We also have several areas in our 
cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts so 
having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

 

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage. 
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks. Same 
with hoses and hose clamps. Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.

Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!

Welcome to the C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk1

 

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall 

Padanaram, MA

 

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Hi Ahmet,

 

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard. 

 

That's all I have for a HIN.

 

Mark

 

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List  wrote:

  Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions. 

  New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?

  I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump. 

  I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.

  I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.

  Ahmet

   

  On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello,

 

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these 
forums work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

 

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback. 

 

Thanks,

 

Mark


On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I just bought one last August and love it.  

  A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.

  What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few 
things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. 

  Ahmet

  1973 C 25 "Tabasco"

  Winthrop, MA

   

  On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I 
as well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if 
anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark