Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

This sounds obvious, but no one has mentioned it, I think: Did you check the 
belt?

Several years ago, I had a maddening problem with my 4000+. Turns out the belt 
was worn out in one spot. Every time it reached that spot, the boat would go 
out of control ...

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Date:05/26/2018  11:39 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia  
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad! 

Well, yesterday, as we left our overnight anchorage, I did a full reset of the 
autopilot.  Followed by the linearization that only showed a 3 degree 
deviation. This indicates there are no issues with the compass being influenced 
by and ferrous interference.  A few of the rudder setting were way off and I 
was hoping that would resolve any issues.  One thing I did notice is that the 
pilot was not receiving the GPS info from my e7 MFD.   

Once everything was done we set out.  Things seemed ok for a while.  The 
excessive course hunting stopped and she was holding course  fine.  No circuit 
breaker issues either.  Then she just started to wander to port...  Restart 
would settle things down, but in a few minutes she would go off on me again.  
it just deteriorated from there so we went manual from there.

When I installed the MFD myself a few years ago I used the appropriate Gtalk ti 
Gtalk ng converter and all of the G60 instruments show up on the MFD.  but I 
didn’t go at all into the interface.  

At this point I suspect there is a software version mismatch.  I found the 
update .iso  that will load the update for the pilot onto it via the MFD.  I’ll 
need to get home to download it and see if the helps.

The below deck conversion looks like something I may consider either doing 
myself or using my checkbook.  But I better get the Pilot’s brain working right 
first...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 21:30:43 -0400
From: bushma...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!
Message-ID: <1639a11b81b-c8c-b...@webjas-vae204.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Tom, before you do anything you should consult with Fred Street of this List, 
Fred sourced all parts and materials for my 37 and was extremely helpful in 
installation information; his contact is Post Audio; (Fred jump in here with 
the proper contact info);  

Richard
s/v Bushmark 4: C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
To: Ron Ricci 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia ; cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, May 25, 2018 1:02 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

Thanks Ron

I am well aware of the limitations of the wheel pilot.  But the PO did it and 
when motoring in light conditions it works ok most of the time...so replacing 
it was more about economics than best case.


I am thinking the present issues could be a good enough reason to spring for 
it.  That said, I get it about the install and am not too sure it?s something I 
would be able to pull off, even with help.  But then, having a yard do it often 
gets a worse result the a DIY solution.

If my control head is not messed up I may just need the below deck stuff, which 
will for sure lower the cost.
We?ll see.
Thx again.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I've used Brightside, Easypoxy and Rustoleum Marine paint over the years on my 
old boats.

Somewhat surprisingly, at least in the Florida sun, the winner by far is 
Rustoleum. It holds up well, does not stain easily and, when you have a 
problem, it's simple to touch up. I have one hatch painted three years ago that 
looks great.

Brightside and Easypoxy had to be redone every couple of years. The direct 
Florida sun really took its toll.

I also used Kiwigrip. It's great antiskid, but I had a continuing problem with 
enduring dirt stains. This happened particularly in the cockpit, which is 
covered by a bimini. The sun seemed to help bleach out stains elsewhere with 
regular cleaning.

My solution was to grind down the Kiwigrip to a mild antiskid pattern. Then I 
painted over it with Rustoleum Marine. A year later, it looks like new with 
Starbrite for cleaning and protection.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Chuck S via CnC-List  
Date:04/23/2018  9:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck S ,Mike Rose  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck painting 

I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a 
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it 
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply. 
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's single part 
flattening agent and think that's how I'll go. It's easier to touch up too, 
which is another reason why I prefer it.

My favorite color is Pearl White (has a slight yellow in it) deck +w a Flag 
Blue hull, but my hull is a smoke white so Matterhorn or even Off White may be 
best for me. It's hard to pick by the color chart, but you can better imagine 
how it will look by taking the color chart to a marina and comparing the colors 
to actual boats you like. Snow White is super bright white. 

I like the Kiwi Grip reviews and hope to use that too.

3M scrubbing sponges work well on curved surfaces. A sponge with sandpaper 
underneath. Orbital sander for the flats.

> On April 23, 2018 at 5:47 PM Mike Rose via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi there-
> 
> I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have 
> gone before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker 
> lid with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit 
> too white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a 
> flattening agent. Here goes the questions.
> 
> 1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
> 2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
> off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
> 3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike Rose
> s/v Shannon Rose
> 1972 C&C 39
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Short Cruise!

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

John's Pass, where they wrecked, is plagued with shifting sand and shoals. 
Sadly, a lot of inlets along Florida's west coast have the same problem due to 
a lack of government money for dredging.

Running aground is a fact of life around here. Lots of skinny water. No big 
deal, usually.

But losing a keel in soft sand under normal conditions? That's what happens to 
a sailboat built 48 years ago to a price point. I don't know what the keel 
bolts were made of in Columbias, but they had reached the end of their road.

More than a few people buy these old, neglected sailboats and think they can 
forge an adventure out of little money. A year or so ago, a guy and his 
teenaged kids sank and drowned  off the Florida coast in a similar sailboat.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.










Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date:02/11/2018  8:53 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Short Cruise! 

News article seemed more focused on deminishing them and their limited 
preparations than actually focusing on what caused them to run aground.  It did 
address that they had recent charts.  I think considerable more investigative 
reporting could have been used. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Sun, Feb 11, 2018, 7:57 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
Bad luck?  Bad prep?

http://www.foxnews.com/travel/2018/02/11/couple-sells-all-possessions-for-sailboat-sinks-2-days-into-trip.html

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

My C&C 25 was wrecked in a hurricane on Key Biscayne. 

Progressive paid up promptly, allowed me to remove anything I wanted from the 
boat and salvaged the wreckage, which had angered federal park rangers because 
it washed up in a federally protected area for Florida crocodiles.

On the basis of performance, Progressive is great. However, its premiums have 
climbed considerably in the last few years.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List  
Date:02/05/2018  4:50 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Nauset Beach  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance 

To say this thread has been enlightening is a bit of an understatement.  I just 
renewed my ins. 3 months ago so am not in the market until later this year – 
seriously doubt would get a return of premium at this point. 
 
When I was originally looking for boat insurance one of the prime 
considerations was how the company handled claims; the phrase “you get what you 
pay for” was mentioned more than once.  Does anyone have actual claim 
experience with any of these companies which are quoting substantially lower 
premiums than Boat US?  That would include a claim with Geico now that they 
have taken over the Boat US business?  I had a claim 6-7 years ago with the 
predecessor to Geico and the process was very smooth and fair. 
 
Brian
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2018 3:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance
 
Yes.  2017 BoatUS premium (now GEICO) for $1040; GEICO online quote for 
substantially the same policy $523.  I spoke with a GEICO rep about this today, 
and she is discussing the matter with her supervisor and an underwriter, and 
said she would get back to me today.  Also, my years of experience did not 
match between my online quote app (which reflected more years) and my policy, 
so I wonder if that type of information remains static in their system based on 
the original application.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

You'll love the shallow draft in Florida. It opens the possibility of great 
cruising that would be blocked to you with a 6-foot draft.

It's increasingly common for centerboard owners to replace the ss cable and 
Nicropress fitting with Amsteel Blue or a similar high-tech line of the same 
diameter.

On my current boat (not a C&C), I used an Amsteel Blue line for seven years on 
the CB before replacing it in June. The rigger said I wasted my money; the line 
was like brand-new.

The line is secured to the CB by making an eye and putting a few wraps through 
it. The tricky part is taping the line to the cable and easing it through.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.







Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Sean Richardson via CnC-List  
Date:01/16/2018  1:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnC-List  
Cc: Sean Richardson  
Subject: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB 

Calling on the collective C&C brain trust!

 

I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
the center board version if anyone has any.

 

The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be in 
very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our next 
boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it effects 
performance/stability as well as required maintenance.

 

I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to sail 
out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then return 
the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to Florida 
then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for the ICW and 
Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more challenging conditions 
of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?

 

My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean marine 
growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. And how 
difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with the boat 
in the water?

 

The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella]

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I read a newspaper story that said the pythons and boas in the Everglades have figured out how to burrow into turtle holes and similar places to stay warm.  Sooner or later, the gators will figure out how to eat them. I'm still puzzled how those snakes eat raccoons. Wild raccoons down here are large, quick, nasty and aggressive. I wouldn't think the snakes would be that fast.Also, I'm glad I don't take canoe trips in the Glades anymore.Our friends in Fort Lauderdale reported dead lizards. Once they're frozen, that's it. Although I suppose some might not get that cold.Jack BrennanFormer C&C 25Shanachie, Bristol 30Tierra Verde, Fl. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO Original message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  Date:01/08/2018  3:46 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright  Subject: Re: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella] The big advantage to a cold climate!!! From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-ListSent: January-08-18 4:42 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella] I saw those lizards on the news, laying on the ground, but they said that they just got too cold to function, and came back to life when it warmed up again – Would be nice if the cold would kill some of those huge snakes down there. Bill ColemanC&C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jackbrennan via CnC-ListSent: Friday, January 05, 2018 7:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: jackbrennanSubject: Re: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella] Highs in the low 50s and lows in the upper 30s in St. Pete-Tampa, enough to discourage all but the hardiest sailors. But I'll be out in the Gulf on Sunday. Friends in Miami-Fort Lauderdale are ecstatic because the cold snap has been enough to kill the imported iguanas and lizards that have invaded because people buy them as pets, then set them free when they get big. With sustained temperatures in the 20s, they freeze and die. But now all of the vegetation in yards will go unmolested. And people aren't confronted with big lizards when they go for a walk in the parks. Jack BrennanFormer C&C 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30Tierra Verde, Fl.  Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date:01/05/2018 5:41 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella] Heck, we haven’t been above that in at least two weeks…   :^(Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( On Jan 5, 2018, at 4:07 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  wrote: 5 degrees in washington nc.  Looking to stay warm.Jim schwartz38 lfSEA YA!washington nc  

	

		Virus-free. www.avast.com
		
	
 ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella]

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Highs in the low 50s and lows in the upper 30s in St. Pete-Tampa, enough to 
discourage all but the hardiest sailors.

But I'll be out in the Gulf on Sunday.

Friends in Miami-Fort Lauderdale are ecstatic because the cold snap has been 
enough to kill the imported iguanas and lizards that have invaded because 
people buy them as pets, then set them free when they get big.

With sustained temperatures in the 20s, they freeze and die. But now all of the 
vegetation in yards will go unmolested. And people aren't confronted with big 
lizards when they go for a walk in the parks.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Date:01/05/2018  5:41 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Stus-List Cold weather [was Re: Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella] 

Heck, we haven’t been above that in at least two weeks…   :^(

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 5, 2018, at 4:07 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  
wrote:

5 degrees in washington nc.  Looking to stay warm.
Jim schwartz
38 lf
SEA YA!
washington nc 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stove

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Butane stoves apparently have a long history of exploding. Bad enough when 
you're camping. Much worse in your boat cabin when you're 10 miles offshore. 
There are videos online.

https://www.classaction.org/butane-stove-explosions

Jack Brennan



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
Date:10/28/2017  2:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove 

I think butane is lighter than air (unlike propane), but I could be wrong.
 
From: jackbrennan via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jackbrennan
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove
 
I hope everyone using portable stoves fueled by butane or small propane 
canisters is taking the appropriate safety precautions. Both types of stoves 
can cause explosions.
 
The canisters should not be stored inside the boat unless it is an isolated 
locker with a drain to the outside.
 
I keep mine, for a rail grill, in a large pvc pipe tied to the rail with holes 
in the bottom for any stray gas to drain. A couple of years ago, a canister 
malfunctioned.
 
I was really happy it was not down below. It would have filled the boat with 
propane..
 
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
 
 
 
 
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO I was really happy it was not down bekow.


 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Date:10/28/2017 1:24 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove 

I use the oven often when cruising. There's nothing like waking up the mate 
with fresh baked muffins or scones in the morning! Even better when we're under 
way!
And pork tenderloins are relatively quick and easy to make. So is pizza. And I 
just found a great recipe for small potatoes baked with parmesan cheese and 
olive oil--goes great with steak...or the aforementioned pork...and a nice 
bottle of Bordeaux. And the broiler is excellent for toasting bagels. And I 
can't imagine re-heating Chinese food without an oven.
We don't "camp" aboard when we're cruising. We didn't have an oven and we 
missed it on the first Peregrine, a C&C 27 I grew up cruising on.
 
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
 
On Sat, Oct 28, 2017 at 1:12 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I'm not sure how much space people are dealing with, but here's what I'm doing: 
my boat came with a clunky old (and bulletproof) stainless steel gimbaled 
stove/oven combination.  Rather than try to get it working, I place one of 
those butane units on top of the stove, and voila -- we can make coffee or soup 
at sea (which is all we ever use it for).

I have an upgrade in the works.  No one I know ever uses an oven, but owners of 
newer boats do use microwaves.  I may use a microwave, too, but only at the 
dock.  Force 10 makes (or at least made) a stainless steel gimbaled stove/oven 
combination unit, but instead of an oven it has a microwave shelf.  (It comes 
without the microwave, so finding the right size microwave can be a bit of a 
pain.)  Once I get it out of the basement and install it on the boat, it will 
provide the stove burners that I want using the old propane system (much of 
which is also being replaced), and I'll be able to microwave something quickly 
while at the dock.

That's my evil plan.  We'll see how it works out.

-Original Message- From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove


I wish that those Forespar gimbaled stoves were still available. I am in the 
process now of converting an older version to accept modern propane cylinders. 
I spent several months on a boat that had one and weused it all the time, 
mainly for boiling water and making coffee. A good mounting spot is to a 1 by 6 
board bolted to the 1/2 bulkhead that forms one side of the galley on most 
boats.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote:
Forespar makes a nifty gimbled stove for small boats.  I like the idea of a 
gimble system since boats tend to move around beneath the stove, and hot fluids 
splashing all over the cabin are usually a bit messy and dangerous. This one 
uses the same propane cannisters as a Magna Grill or Lehr Propane outboard 
motor and can be purchased at any grocery or hardware store.



<https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=14122> 
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=14122

I used to use a wind proof butane Optimus backpacking stove when I had my C&C 
25 and it worked well, but the compressed gas cannisters are no longer 
available.



Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA




___

Re: Stus-List Stove

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I hope everyone using portable stoves fueled by butane or small propane 
canisters is taking the appropriate safety precautions. Both types of stoves 
can cause explosions.

The canisters should not be stored inside the boat unless it is an isolated 
locker with a drain to the outside.

I keep mine, for a rail grill, in a large pvc pipe tied to the rail with holes 
in the bottom for any stray gas to drain. A couple of years ago, a canister 
malfunctioned. 

I was really happy it was not down below. It would have filled the boat with 
propane..

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO I was really happy it was not down bekow.

 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
Date:10/28/2017  1:24 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove 

I use the oven often when cruising. There's nothing like waking up the mate 
with fresh baked muffins or scones in the morning! Even better when we're under 
way!
And pork tenderloins are relatively quick and easy to make. So is pizza. And I 
just found a great recipe for small potatoes baked with parmesan cheese and 
olive oil--goes great with steak...or the aforementioned pork...and a nice 
bottle of Bordeaux. And the broiler is excellent for toasting bagels. And I 
can't imagine re-heating Chinese food without an oven.
We don't "camp" aboard when we're cruising. We didn't have an oven and we 
missed it on the first Peregrine, a C&C 27 I grew up cruising on.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Sat, Oct 28, 2017 at 1:12 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I'm not sure how much space people are dealing with, but here's what I'm doing: 
my boat came with a clunky old (and bulletproof) stainless steel gimbaled 
stove/oven combination.  Rather than try to get it working, I place one of 
those butane units on top of the stove, and voila -- we can make coffee or soup 
at sea (which is all we ever use it for).

I have an upgrade in the works.  No one I know ever uses an oven, but owners of 
newer boats do use microwaves.  I may use a microwave, too, but only at the 
dock.  Force 10 makes (or at least made) a stainless steel gimbaled stove/oven 
combination unit, but instead of an oven it has a microwave shelf.  (It comes 
without the microwave, so finding the right size microwave can be a bit of a 
pain.)  Once I get it out of the basement and install it on the boat, it will 
provide the stove burners that I want using the old propane system (much of 
which is also being replaced), and I'll be able to microwave something quickly 
while at the dock.

That's my evil plan.  We'll see how it works out.

-Original Message- From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove


I wish that those Forespar gimbaled stoves were still available. I am in the 
process now of converting an older version to accept modern propane cylinders. 
I spent several months on a boat that had one and we used it all the time, 
mainly for boiling water and making coffee. A good mounting spot is to a 1 by 6 
board bolted to the 1/2 bulkhead that forms one side of the galley on most 
boats.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote:
Forespar makes a nifty gimbled stove for small boats.  I like the idea of a 
gimble system since boats tend to move around beneath the stove, and hot fluids 
splashing all over the cabin are usually a bit messy and dangerous. This one 
uses the same propane cannisters as a Magna Grill or Lehr Propane outboard 
motor and can be purchased at any grocery or hardware store.



 
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=14122

I used to use a wind proof butane Optimus backpacking stove when I had my C&C 
25 and it worked well, but the compressed gas cannisters are no longer 
available.



Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA




___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. 
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated! 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!



-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

People on this list should be complimented that so many former C&C owners 
continue to lurk here.

I for one think it's the one of best sources of reliable information on the 
Internet for maintaining and upgrading sailboats. Dennis, Fred, Wally and many 
others have given me quite an education over the 16 years I've been reading 
their posts.

Other email sailing lists tend to be plagued by a scarcity of real experts, 
flamers, know nothings who believe they know it all, big personalities who 
argue at the drop of a hat and more. This list somehow tends to avoid all of 
that.

Besides, who knows, maybe someday we'll come back to the C&C fold. :) 

I know that if I could get some lingering health issues under control, I might 
be tempted by the right Landfall or a centerboard C&C for more extended 
cruising.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.








Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
Date:09/18/2017  5:51 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Cc: Marek Dziedzic  
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none 

Fred,
 
Why are you suddenly so friendly? In the past non-C&C lurkers where threatened 
with keelhauling…
 
 
Marek
1994 C270 legato
Ottawa, ON
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 16:09
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none
 
 
On Sep 18, 2017, at 2:00 PM, David Castor via CnC-List  
wrote:
 
Mostly lurk on this list since I bought a Sabre instead of C&C. 
 
We forgive you…   :^)   Actually, my slip neighbor has a Sabre 36, and it’s a 
beautiful boat.  I may go that way someday, too.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Of course, the caveat to all of this is that,  depending on where you sail, 
even up-to-date charts can be anywhere from mildly off to wildly and 
dangerously inaccurate.

In the Keys and South and West Florida, where sand shifts all of the time, 
TowboatUS and Seatow do a fine business from boaters blindly following their 
chartplotters. Many inlets and channels in West Florida have nasty, uncharted 
sandbars.

After Irma, forget about it. Who knows what's where? You could go aground on a 
sunken boat.

Depth sounders and the ability to read water are more valuable navigation tools 
in places like this. I like paper charts because you get a bigger view. A GPS 
is wonderful for confirming that you are where you think you are. 

Still, I get the allure of all that gear. I crewed on a friend's catamaran to 
Fantasy Fest in Key West last fall. His electronics were several times more 
valuable than many of our boats.

I felt like I was on the con of the Starship Enterprise. Especially when we hit 
warp speed (10+ knots). The only thing the electronics couldn't do was spot 
crab pots at night. :)

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.










Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Date:09/18/2017  10:14 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List An Irma story with a good ending

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce:

I live on Tierra Verde and keep my sailboat at Gulfport Marina.

We too got lucky even though we spent two nights in the hallway of a high 
school/shelter because we were concerned that storm surge would swamp our 
island. (Next time, we're going to New Orleans  ...)

But about half the boats in the free anchorage outside Gulfport are MIA. 
Haven't been out sailing yet, but I suspect many of them are on the beach or on 
the bottom. I saw a C&C 27 wrecked by dragging into Gulfport pier the day after 
the storm.

St. Pete Marina supposedly lost half a dozen boats.

You're not a real Floridian until you've been through a hurricane or two. Now 
you've been baptized.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.










Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
Date:09/14/2017  8:51 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore  
Subject: Stus-List An Irma story with a good ending 

Hello all,

I thought I would share our story about Irma:

As we prepared for Irma late last week, we went from “It looks like it’s going 
to miss us, but let’s prepare anyway”, to “this could be really bad, but we’ll 
be OK at home”, to evacuation in anticipation of a catastrophic hit.  In that 
process, we resigned ourselves to the idea that flooding and/or structural 
damage to the house plus the total loss of our boat was highly likely.  That 
realization was both sobering and enlightening.  We figured out we could 
prepare for an extended uncertain future and fit much of what was really 
important to us (other than Astralis, of course!) in one car, and we gained a 
lot of clarity as to what is, and is not really important to us. 
 
Thankfully for us (though not for many here in Florida) Irma weakened 
dramatically after ravaging Marco Island about 3:30 PM and moved inland.  We 
were fortunate enough to be able to seek protection in a senior living facility 
where my wife works.  As I helped my wife assist the resident senior citizens 
(many with memory & physical disabilities), we put on calm faces while we 
anxiously waited for nearly 12 hours, expecting Irma to devastate Tampa.  Then 
we watched as four things slowly happened:
 
Irma took a path inland a bit, robbing it of warm moisture from the Gulf, and 
directing the eye away from Tampa
The storm sped up from about 8 mph to 12-14 mph, indicating the storm would not 
stay long, and its strength would dissipate
Sheering winds bought dry air in from the east, which by late in the evening 
could be seen as wrapping nearly all the way around the eye reducing the power 
of the hurricane
The winds dropped on the west/southwest side of the storm, virtually eliminated 
the destructive storm surge that had been predicted – Massive amounts of water 
had been sucked out of Tampa Bay, but the expected 8+ feet of storm surge 
didn’t materialize, and it returned without much fanfare
 
The final chapter of this short story is that we got to Astralis, our 1994 C&C 
37/40+ yesterday, and found that she was floating nicely, the rudder had been 
jammed over from sitting on the sandy bottom but was otherwise OK, and we there 
was evidence of 2 previously unknown minor deck leaks over the stern berth.  
Everything else was remarkably fine.  The marina had already replaced a 
torn-out lonesome post, and it was clear to us that had the storm hit much 
harder, things would have been very, very different. A little bit of further 
irony struck us as we realized that when we bought her on February 1st, she sat 
down in Marco Island.  Had we not moved her to Tampa, she would have likely 
been a total loss.

This was our first hurricane, having moved to Florida from Chicago only 2 years 
ago.  We had a chance to see, first hand, how communities pull together to 
prepare for hurricanes, hunker down and help ease each other’s fears as they 
grasp the idea of losing their homes and most prized possessions, and help 
clean up the aftermath.  Yet, our local damage is nothing like that incurred by 
so many others across the state. 
 
Gratefully,
 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Irma is one scary storm!

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I kept my old C&C 25 on a mooring at Crandon Park Marina off Miami during the 
horrible 2004-5 hurricane seasons.

The joke around the mooring field was that half of the owners were adding lines 
and that the other half were loosening them.

Lots of owners with old boats they couldn 't sell who would gladly put in an 
insurance claim ...

Many of them got their wish when Wilma blew through with 120 mph gusts. Half of 
the mooring field was gone because those boats weren't protected by the bird 
sanctuary island that was supposed to shield them.

All the lines in the world couldn't save my boat once those 10 - to 12 foot 
breakers started rolling in.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
Date:09/05/2017  1:53 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Dakin  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Irma is one scary storm! 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

For shooting through the hull, Airmar makes a P 79 transducer for Raymarine and 
Garmin depth sounders that includes the housing. 

What makes this attractive is that it is designed to handle any slant in the 
hull up to 22 degrees. 

It is reasonably priced, as boat gear goes, and it has worked well on my 
current sailboat for about four years.  It's good to about 200 feet depth, as 
opposed to 400 on transducers that go through the hull.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Date:09/04/2017  2:11 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Check the belt. My autopilot acted like that when the belt was shot.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Date:07/16/2017  1:58 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question 

Listers,

Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to malfunction 
after about an hour or so.

It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. Eventually, 
it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would disengage. I 
shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for about a minute, 
then it would happen again after a minute or two. 

I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly on 
course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we were 
(so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting course 
properly. 

I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
all the S-turns. 

Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
until yesterday, it was working flawlessly. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Thinking about a new boom - where to start?

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Bruce:

Crab pots aren't too bad around Tampa Bay. (I live in St. Pete.) But they are 
around and can ruin your day if you catch one.

The worst is when you are sailing along the Gulf Coast at night, when it's near 
impossible to see them. If you can, it's worth heading into deeper water to 
avoid them. 

I crewed on a big catamaran heading to Key West for Fantasy Fest last October. 
We usually had two people at the helm, with one looking for crab pots, and we 
still had several close calls at night.

(The owner was not looking forward to diving in 5-foot seas to cut line off his 
saildrives.)

Where they're terrible is on the Florida Bay side of the Keys.  You'll be 
running in a narrow channel and suddenly be confronted with a wall of them. I 
caught a couple of them on my old C&C 25 years ago and spent hours hanging over 
the stern while sawing line off the outboard prop.


Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: bwhitmore via CnC-List  
Date:07/12/2017  10:20 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bwhitmore  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thinking about a new boom - where to start? 

Hi Alan,

Would you be willing to share more about the crab pot incident?  I moved to 
Tampa from Chicago and bought a bigger C&C.  As you can imagine, the whole crab 
pot thing is both new and disconcerting to me.

Thanks!

Bruce Whitmore
C&C 37/40+



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
Date: 7/12/17 1:05 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thinking about a new boom - where to start?

I replaced my boom, a few months ago, with a Selden boom.  All lines are 
internal, and the outhaul has an internal 3:1 purchase.  This was the result of 
a cracked boom when we got hung up on a crab pot.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 10:11 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Some of you may remember a thread about a year ago where I was soliciting 
opinions on how to get a single-line reefing system to work on S.V. Safari, my 
C&C 34.

I can say that I got it working well enough to take us safely to Tofino and 
back, along with a year’s worth of great sailing. The single line reefing made 
reefing with an inexperienced crew much safer and smoother. However, it’s not 
perfect. The reefing lines (along with the outhaul, topping lift, etc.) had to 
contend with a fair amount of friction and frozen hardware that will never come 
off, and as such our reefs tend to not be as crisp as they could/should be.

So I’m contemplating what a new boom might look like. Something with internal 
reefing lines, outhaul, topping lift, etc.. I’m not sure where to start. What 
are my options?

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=BYOilVheiyj16_brEUI4Ano6OxOZ4i_jBFZEiDk2ZVY&s=OtMPONNZIxtsRX6WEmADFO1OvFoS6yPFWGdoyQDtC3I&e=

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Bye bye pretty boat.

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

A guy behind me at the marina was thrilled four years ago when he bought a C&C 
27 with a working A4 for 1K.

He had big plans. Marinize a small Yanmar diesel he already owned, do a few 
other projects and have a beautiful, updated sailboat for under 5K.

Four years later, the boat has not moved from its dock, unless you count the 
time it sank after a heavy Florida rainstorm. Same A4, lots of deterioration. 
The boat is worth $0, maybe less than that.

He tried some projects, found the going rough and apparently gave up.

My rough calculation is that he has spent 14k in dock fees, another couple of 
grand for mandatory insurance and who knows what to have the boat raised.

He could have waited a couple of years and bought a nice, updated sailboat for 
way less than that. Neglected sailboats are not a good deal. They are difficult 
and expensive to bring back to life.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.








Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date:06/09/2017  10:19 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bye bye pretty boat. 

Kinda like a time share condo. Go to eBay and look at how many are going for 
$1. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2017, at 7:19 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

I expect to see a lot more of that L
Right now, and probably trending towards worse and worse, buying a sailboat big 
enough to need a slip that is older is definitely a “falling knife” investment 
if there ever was one.  If the boat ends up needing sails, an engine, and 
interior while you own her, that is likely as much as the original purchase and 
then some for a ROI of almost nothing.
My wife and I love perusing Yachtworld and we have come to notice for many 
older boats, the list seems static for YEARS. There is one C&C 40 Crusader on 
there that literally has been for sale longer than we have been married, and we 
got married in 1999!
 
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 8, 2017 7:33 PM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Bye bye pretty boat.
 
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-boat-parts-trailer-accessories/hamilton/c-c-corvette-sail-boat-31ft-parts-and-sails/1255274199?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
 
Had mulled over Corvette project - essentially free - before buying Windstar.  
 
Dave   33-2 Windstar 

Sent from my iPad
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Start with the stuffing box for the prop shaft. It could be the packing, an 
easy fix, or it could be an ancient stuffing box hose, which is more painful to 
replace.

Strategically placed paper towels or chalk can tell you where the water is 
coming from.

Right after I bought my current boat, it nearly sank at the dock after the 
surveyor failed to notice the stuffing box hose was seriously deteriorating.



Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List  
Date:06/05/2017  9:31 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Raymond Macklin  
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Water Level 

I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge area.  I 
just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge Pump Float 
switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting in the water, 
the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it about 4 hours)  I 
wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the water rising so quickly, 
the bilge pump would be running all the time.  Does anyone know what could be 
causing it?  I removed the hose from the stern that fed into it, just to make 
sure it was not coming from the engine compartment.  Any ideas?

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List DIY Marina

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Playboy does require you to buy their bottom paint. Generally, it was $50-75 a 
gallon above retail. But haul out fees are a fraction of what other yards 
charge, so it balances out.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: colin binkley via CnC-List  
Date:03/08/2017  8:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: colin binkley  
Subject: Stus-List DIY Marina 

No live aboards at Playboy I have been told. Also all paint products have to be 
purchased from them. 
  Green Cove Springs, Jacksonville area ( I think a little south of Orange Fl ) 
is very relaxed. Everybody there friendly. Let them order your products and you 
will get their wholesale discount. ( Or it used to be). I felt a real "Don't 
worry; be happy" aura. 
Colin
SV Lindsey Layne
C&C 40C #3

Sent from my iPhone

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Boatyards are a different animal in Florida for a couple of reasons.

First is that almost no one stores boats in boat yards because of the weather 
and because waterfront property is too expensive to make it work economically.

To make a boat yard profitable, there has to be a steady turnover of vessels 
and enough repairs so tradesmen will pay the yard big bucks to locate in the 
yard. The rigger in the corner of the yard will get much of the mast work, for 
example.

In many yards, you are required to use the in-house tradesmen and you are not 
allowed to do any significant work yourself.

Another reason for this is environmental. Florida gets much of its drinking 
water from aquifers a few feet below the surface. Sloppy amateur work pollutes 
the aquifers with sanded off bottom paint, for example.

There are still a few yards that allow DIY, but they are disappearing. The one 
I plan to use this spring allows you to do your projects as long as they paint 
the bottom.

It's not a bad deal, actually. You used to have to buy the bottom paint at a 
huge markup. The current price for a bottom job is only a couple of hundred 
more, and they do all the nasty work.

Jack Brennan
Tierra Verde, Fl.
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30








Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date:01/16/2017  10:36 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36 

H...Louisiana is a fairly litigious state with Napaleonic law and a 
powerful trial lawyers group but they haven't reached deeply in unstepping a 
rig.  Some folks around my area hire a tow truck with a boom crane.  Yup, tow 
truck.  They usually charge a lot less than a real crane + operator.

Dennis C,
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 7:25 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Right you are Dwight, but the marina in Florida is insurance crazy and skill 
short when it comes to sailboat rigs. They insist that boat owners hire a 
"professional rigger" to assist with unstepping or stepping a mast. My plan is 
to improve the  situation for now, and unstep the mast to fix the step and a 
few other things when I get to a place that has a better attitude and maybe a 
crane. Everyone in our sailing club on Lake Erie unsteps their mast every year, 
so it is a little hard to relate to people who insist that it is such a big 
deal just because they don't do it much themselves.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

 dwight veinot via CnC-List  wrote:
Good luck Steve...I think it would be a much easier fix with the mast out
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 1:17 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> Whatever is supporting the mast step on my 1980 C&C36 project boat has sunk 
> by 1/2 to 1.0 inch, and the mast is pulling down on the cabin top. There is 
> no visible sign of rot in the wood and fibreglass cross members at either 
> end, and I am planning to attempt to put an aluminum plate shim underneath. 
> The step box is constructed of anodized aluminum about a half an inch thick, 
> and the bottom plate extends forward forming a shelf through which 2 bolts or 
> lag screws hold it in place. There are no other visible mechanical fasteners.
> Judging from all the talk over the years about mast steps, I am guessing that 
> someone on the list has removed a similar box on a similar if not identical 
> boat. What did you find? Were there other fasteners? Was the fibreglass 
> holding it down? Any issues getting it loose? What is underneath that not 
> obvious?
> I am hoping to do this without unstepping the mast, but just jacking it up a 
> bit.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Thomas
> C&C 36
> Merritt Island, FL
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Grape solar panels appear to have a good rep with the RV and sailing 
communities. I just bought a 100 amp panel with solar regulator from Home Depot 
at a decent price (300 total). So far, it works well and is put together well. 

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 G Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
Date:11/30/2016 7:24 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels? 

Hey all,

I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank for a 
42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar panels, 
regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels, but in most 
cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm thinking West 
Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to go for the wire 
and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of panels 
anyone has had luck with.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anyone use Pettit Easypoxy (EZ-Poxy one part) to paint topsides?

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I've used Rustoleum Marine paint and Brightside on my current sailboat, mostly 
on deck in the places not covered with Kiwigrip.

Rustoleum is thinner and dries harder than Brightsides. After eight months, the 
Rustoleum still has a decent shine in the hot, direct Florida sun. Brightsides 
lost its shine fairly quickly, but held up well.

The best thing about these paints is that you can repair a nick or scratch in 
minutes. The bad thing is that you need to put on another coat every couple of 
years to keep the boat looking nice.

I compromise by painting smaller sections a couple of times a year. Over time, 
you get everything without making a big job of it.

Jack Brennan
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 Original message 
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List  
Date:08/23/2016  2:27 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 1 CnC List  
Cc: Jim Watts  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone use Pettit Easypoxy (EZ-Poxy one part) to paint 
topsides? 

I find EasyPoxy to be a lot softer than Brightsides, and definitely takes 
longer to cure hard. I have never tried the Rustoleum paint, but the samples I 
saw comparing the results were very much in favour of the Interlux. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 August 2016 at 09:33, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Wow – my 35 needs paint. Let me know how this goes!

BTW- I have heard nothing but excellent reviews of Rustoleum topsides paint 
that is way cheap compared to marine brands, both for results and ease of use. 
I used EZPoxy way back in the day on a wooden Penguin I had sans primer. I 
ended up peeling off L  Primer is 90% of the battle. It is designed to connect 
old mystery paint to new paint J

Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2016 12:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone use Pettit Easypoxy (EZ-Poxy one part) to paint 
topsides?

 

Brandon

 

If you do not know what paint was used previously it is strongly recommended 
that you prime.  You do not know what if any reaction may take place between 
the old and new paint

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brandon 
Gaspard via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2016 1:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brandon Gaspard
Subject: Stus-List Anyone use Pettit Easypoxy (EZ-Poxy one part) to paint 
topsides?

 

I'm painting my hull with a one part topside paint and I decided on EZ Poxy by 
Pettit.  I've heard better things about Pettit's one part than Interlux's 
Brightside.  Awlgrip is much more expensive and supposedly much more difficult 
to work with.  I'm painting a C&C 35 Mk1 in the sweltering Louisiana summer 
heat.  Any tips on using EZ Poxy?

The plan is a good pressure washing, followed by Bio Blue Hull, orbital sand 
with ~200 grit, acetone clean, paint (brush and tip), sand with 300 grit, wipe 
down, then apply a second coat.  Boot strip and details will be done with 
Pettit Boot Top.

I don't plan on priming because Tango's original gel coat has already been 
painted over.  The paint job is holding up and looks to be in decent enough 
shape to paint over. 

Any tips or suggestions?

Brandon
C&C 35 Mk1


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club?

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Locals in Florida know you do not swim in freshwater anywhere, except for 
shallow springs where you go tubing. Alligators are everywhere. 

If you go to Shark Valley in Everglades National Park, you can find dozens of 
them sunbathing along the 17-mile bike path. Most will let you stand nearby so 
someone can take your photo ...

Gators have been found in swimming pools, regularly eat dogs chained in 
canalfront backyards and can be seen on nearly every golf course in the state.

Unfortunately, they have not yet learned to kill the pythons and boas that 
stupid pet owners let loose in the Everglades.

Saltwater can be interesting, too. In addition to sharks - - including many 
bulls and hammerheads -- we have Florida crocodiles and all sorts of rays that 
hide in the sand until you step on them, after which they attack you.

A few years ago, one ray jumped onto a boat in Hillsboro Inlet and speared a 
guy in the heart.

Somehow, virtually everyone manages to survive ...

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.







Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date:07/28/2016  1:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: RANDY  
Cc: "Dennis C." ,cnc-list  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club? 

No way.  This guy is waaay smaller than the one I saw from Touche' in the 
spring.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 11:39 AM, RANDY  wrote:
Dennis maybe that's the same gator that was in the water in that photo of 
Touche' you posted a while back :)

Nothing like that at my yacht club.  Though we do have a family of beavers 
living in the marina.  Fortunately they are not chewing down trees and building 
dams across the channels :)

Cheers,
Randy

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
To: "CnClist" 
Cc: "Dennis" 
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 9:49:13 AM
Subject: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club?

This was across the street from my yacht club.  I usually park in the parking 
lot shown.



Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration! / Hot nights

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

In parts of the far southern U.S., it's so hot that many people don't consider 
summer part of the sailing season.

In fact, the cruising club I belong to in St Petersburg, Fl., suspends all 
sailing activities from June through early September because it is just too hot.

Today, for example, the heat index hit 105. The temperature reached 92 with 
humidity in the 80s. The overnight low will be about 82, with a heat index in 
the upper 80s. A still night is like a sauna.

In late July and August, it will be much worse.

AC is the only way to survive a night on the boat. 

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Indigo via CnC-List  
Date:07/05/2016  5:46 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration! / Hot nights 

 Presumably you are on shore-power when running this unit?

Don't know about Georgia, but in the north east, provided there is a little 
breeze, the wind scoop  combined with a few strategically placed 12v fans keeps 
my wife cool enough to tolerate overnights on a mooring / anchor. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Jul 5, 2016, at 16:23, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

In order to get my wife to spend the night at the boat in the summer (In 
Georgia) there was only 1 option: A/C. We tried it without 1 night and she was 
ready to go home the next day. 

It gets really hot and sometimes stupid humid, especially in the boat so the 
A/C was mandatory except I had multiple other higher priority places to spend 
2,500 or so bucks (Still do).  

Solution? I bought a  "Room" 12,000 BTU  Air Conditionner..  

It's still there on Amazon:  
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-Conditioner-LP1213GXR/dp/B00DZQGHIA
 

I paid 299.00 shipped for a refurbished unit and it's been very impressive.  
Fortunately for us the boat has a separate shower stall which we don't use 
while at the dock so the A/C goes in there.  There is Lewmar hatch on the 
shower ceiling so that takes care of the exhaust.  We use a 3 - 4 strategically 
placed fans to move the air around it's plenty to cool off the cabin.  I've 
been there during the day with 100 degrees sun beating the deck and the A/C 
still keeps it in the high 70's with no humidity. At night it will cool down 
the boat to however cold you want it.

This year I started controlling the humidity when we're not there using this:  
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-Fragrance-Free-High-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308

It's also surprisingly effective, and does help keep the "boat smell" in check. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I've been using this to seal deck hardware, framed portlights and chainplates 
for several years. Dries in 30 minutes and forms a waterproof, flexible, 
adhesive seal that is far superior to anything found in a chandlery. 

I've yet to have a leak anywhere I've used it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-3-0-9-oz-Crystal-Clear-Premium-Gutter-and-Flashing-Sealant-18377/206046712

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: S Thomas via CnC-List  
Date:06/01/2016  12:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas  
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 

The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
 
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
 
Steve.
- Original Message -
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, and 
but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine version.

Loctite Polyurethene here 
Practical Sailor Article here

Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Thanks Bettina

Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi Mike,
Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
Bettina

On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet



 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it  . Good news, 
after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to 
dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the 
boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a makeover. 
I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband finally came 
around.

Bettina

C&C 25 Savannah



> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> at

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatl

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

The drain line from my vanity sink (with check valve) is teed into the intake 
for the head. You do your business, wash your hands (you all do that, right?) 
and the sink water leaves a layer in the head that seems to cut down on odors.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
Date:04/19/2016  9:08 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing 

Hi Ken,

If the just gets casual use, an inline ball float check valve might prevent the 
unintended washing. From that annoying port hand basin.

This is similar to what I was thinking about, but it doesn't have the ball so 
the seal isn't as good. 
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/th-marine-inline-scupper-valve

 Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk1

At 04:10 AM 19/04/2016, you wrote:
The head sink is so far outboard in the C&C 37+ that it will inflood if you are 
sailing on your ear.

That is how we (accidentally) washed out the heads a couple of times now.  We 
now close the head sink through hull when we know we will be hard over on 
starboard tack.

The other two sinks (galley and forward stateroom) are close enough to the 
centre line to not be an issue.

Ken H.___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Peter:

Fred is correct. I charge two golf cart batteries and one group 24 starting 
battery with a 10 amp Guest 110 volt charger with two charging wires.

Works fine. A smaller charger just means more time to achieve a full charge, 
which is fine with me because I only use it on trips when I want to do an 
overnight charge in a marina. 

Even a trickle charger will eventually bring a large battery bank to full 
charge. My 30 watt solar panel will bring the golf cart batteries to full 
charge over several days of Florida sunshine, depending on discharge.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Date:03/04/2016  5:33 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement 

Peter — please remember that six-volt and twelve-volt batteries are made from 
1.5-volt cells; the only difference is the number of cells wired in series to 
make up the battery.  Two six-volt batteries wired in series are functionally 
equivalent to a twelve-volt battery.

I can understand if that particular ProMariner charger doesn’t have enough 
current to charge a large battery; but "each leg of the charger attached to a 
single battery” would apply to two six-volt batteries wired in series.  There’s 
no way for the charger to know the difference, and electrically there IS no 
difference.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Mar 4, 2016, at 4:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
wrote:

No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in series 
or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work with each 
leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very specifically 
identified multiple times in the literature.
 
6V golf cart batteries are a no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my 
previous posts.
 
If someone at ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they are 
wrong. I admit that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to re-ask 
questions several times to obtain answers to all the questions that I asked.
 
The Pro-Sports I think are decent chargers at a great price-point with some 
rather unique features, like distributed charging ... but they have their 
limitations.
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

If the weather is right, it's very doable. Once you reach Delray, the 
Gulfstream is close, so you need to run in 40 to 100 feet of water to avoid 
northbound currents. 

Be aware, though, that you may end up motorsailing when the winds turn 
southeast-south, as they often do. But it's much quicker to motor outside than 
on the ICW, where you have to pop drawbridges.

For  most of the year, you get plenty of warning if bad weather is coming. In 
the summer, you have to be prepared for thunderstorms to leak over onto the 
ocean from the Everglades.

They will scare the bejezus out of you the first few times. You can go from 
sunny to 50 knot gusts in 15 minutes. There's usually no way to run for shelter.

They're  over quickly, but it helps to have a beer on hand to calm the nerves 
afterward.

There are sailing guides to the Keys that are very helpful.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  
Date:01/26/2016  5:21 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Mark McMenamy  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Thanks a lot Jack.  I was thinking of planning an off shore run to Lake Worth 
one day, and then heading to Miami to avoid the bridges.  Is it possible to do 
an all night sail and knock it out in a day or so?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 5:13 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List  
wrote:

I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on 
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny 
anchorages.

An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't 
want to deflate it.

Where the 25 gets a little eye-opening is when you run some of the tricky East 
Coast of Florida inlets with wind vs tides. It's a tender boat, and a 4 -5 foot 
chop will have you rocking like you won't believe, with the engine of course 
popping out of the water.

My wife used to turn green sometimes when we would run Hillsboro Inlet in 15 
knot easterlies.

The best strategy is to sail in nice weather, but motor the ICW when the wind 
picks up. Stay away from the smaller inlets and use the main ports - Lake 
Worth, Port Everglades and Miami.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
Date:01/26/2016 4:41 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Taillieu 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

 

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL




___

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on 
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny 
anchorages.

An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't 
want to deflate it.

Where the 25 gets a little eye-opening is when you run some of the tricky East 
Coast of Florida inlets with wind vs tides. It's a tender boat, and a 4 -5 foot 
chop will have you rocking like you won't believe, with the engine of course 
popping out of the water.

My wife used to turn green sometimes when we would run Hillsboro Inlet in 15 
knot easterlies.

The best strategy is to sail in nice weather, but motor the ICW when the wind 
picks up. Stay away from the smaller inlets and use the main ports - Lake 
Worth, Port Everglades and Miami.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
Date:01/26/2016  4:41 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Taillieu  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Mark,
 
Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.
 
The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.
 
When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.
 
Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.
 
I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.
 
Thanks again for the info.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

If you buy in late summer, you can get four packs of tickets for Copper 
Mountain for about $160. We got a similar deal from Keystone one year.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
Date:12/15/2015  6:45 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Rohwer  
Subject: Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing 

That pass sounds great.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 14, 2015, at 18:34, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Apologies to the non-skiers on the list.  Yeah, $100+ is a bit painful.  OTH, 
there are bargains available (and we know how much sailboat owners like 
bargains.  There, it's sailing related).  I'm skiing 4 days at Steamboat, 4 
days at Winter Park, several days at Copper Mountain and Crested Butte this 
year on a $569 pass.  I also get access to Eldora, CO if I choose to go.  Also 
included are discounted single day tickets for friends.  Very good deal if you 
are skiing 5+ days.

Vail offers various passes for their resorts.  Really good deals also if you 
plan well and buy early.

I will be skiing in Colorado much of January, early February and again in March 
if any listers are out there.  Have truck, will ski!  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 7:44 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Enivous about equador, and you living in BC and skiing anywhere but BC. 

On another note, I think I have given up on skiing in Whistler so it’s all 
yours!  I think they have finally hit my personal affordability index with $119 
for a tow ticket. Explains why you are skiing in Colorado!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

On Dec 14, 2015, at 5:31 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List  
wrote:

Bill,
 
Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for sure?  
Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to pictures you 
could share? Maybe share them off list?
 
bcrawf7...@comcast.net
 
Fellow Skier
Brad Crawford
C&C 36
Seattle, WA
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing
 
The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart on 
the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to 
Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 
 
Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high on 
volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath :-) 
sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to 17,000’ we 
did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our skiis to the 
base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches and a bad sleep so we 
went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with a 3AM start we 
hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit at 19,000’. We 
skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We had to jump a few 
crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1” of crusty snow over 
isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The nearby volcano Cotopaxi was 
erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the snow. It was interesting skiing 
black snow (not good for the bases however). 
 A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700’. We 
had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We 
negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required and 
lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route finding on 
the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding the best way to 
ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but made it back to 
safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 
Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate 
change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm dry 
weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing maybe 
not hauling skiis up to ski. 
I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to Bow 
Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much oxygen 
there is at this elevation!! Life is good!
Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)
 
Happy Holidays to all you C&C listers!!
 
Bill
 
 
Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C&C35 MkII
in Victoria,BC
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom

Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Here's a hull speed story some of you racers might find interesting.

My current boat is a centerboard Bristol 30, a 1960s CCA racer designed by 
Halsey Herreshoff with full keel, cutaway forefoot, attached rudder, etc.

Of course, IOR boats like C&Cs sail circles around it in lighter winds. In 
12-15 knots, it will sometimes reach  6.6 knots. But, in more than 20 knots of 
wind, with full main and a 130, the boat will hit a steady 7.5 knots on a close 
reach with jumps up to 7.8 knots.

This is GPS speed in Boca Ciega Bay just off Tampa Bay, a protected area where 
you can have 1-2 foot seas and little current when the wind is really kicking 
up, which makes it fun to sail.

The waterline is being stretched out as the boat heels over 30 to 40 degrees, 
but that shouldn't account for all the speed. Especially because I am not a 
racer.

I guess the Herreshoffs knew a thing or two about designing sailboats back in 
the day.


Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
I




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Date:08/25/2015  7:23 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: dwight veinot  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts! 

Well I wasn't peed off, just skeptical of those speeds based on my own mediocre 
experience but kudos to you Sam for doing what one famous America's Cup skipper 
referred to as "No Excuse to Lose"...keep up the good sailing and no need to 
keep quiet from my point of view; I have never seen knot abbreviated as kn, 
that confused me in conjunction with the numbers so I asked; perhaps I am the 
one who should have kept quiet

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 7:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
‎A few things :
My genoa is an almost new laminate sail; The main is only 5 short seasons old; 
I've got a folding propeller ; my bottom is smooth like a babies - I take it 
out every winter!‎; I’m measuring speed with a Speed Puck (GPS)

The 8kn readings were brief and fleeting (not more than the 10secs to register 
in the instrument. The 7kn readings did register though, but they were not 
sustained - like the 6+kn readings were. During this whole time I was beating, 
which is why I pondered on the possibility of sustaining 7 or 8 on a beam reach.

I fairly regularly exceed theoretical hull speed - If you're not, you're not 
trying ! The 26 is not known to be a fast boat. I've done a lot to get her 
faster. There are a lot of faster C&C's on the water which is why the 26's 
aren't raced.
And yes the 27 is faster!

Sorry I pissed so many people off - I'll keep quiet in future!

sam :-)
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

sorry Russ, I thought he said a beam reach must have missed the part about 
puffs, still that's very fast for a 26 but if he can do it course be damned as 
you say, then good for him

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 2:52 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Dwight,

Please reread Sam's message before getting out the pitchforks. He said 7 or 8, 
in the puffs. I would not characterize puffs as "regular"... 

On a prairie lake I think his experience is quite achievable in hot summer 
conditions when all you want to do is sail fast, course be damned.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet mk-1



At 10:05 AM 25/08/2015, you wrote:
what do you mean by 7kn to 8kn regularly? 

If you mean 7 knots or 8 knots through the water or over the ground with a C&C 
26 I would say you should be a race winner every time on corrected time; that 
is really fast for a C&C 26 even on a beam reach and I got a feeling you would 
probably leave my 35 MKII struggling to stay close behind...before everyone 
runs out to get a C&C 26 are you sure about those numbers; I have only ever 
seen a couple of C&C 26's around here...I don't remember them being quite that 
slippery, in fact my C&C 27 MKIII always seemed to be much faster on all points 
of sail

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my thoughts on 
optimizing my sail plan.

Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!

 

Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I thought we’d 
play around with the saill plan.

Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I ssee the occasional 
whitecap it’s around 10kn)

 

I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2 seasons). A 
Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche & McBride in 
Vancouver (5 seasons).

 

I

Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Florida has a wonderful law that classifies any vessel more than 30 years old 
as an antique vessel. That means the annual registration fee is waived. I think 
it cost me less than $10 to renew.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shsnachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Date:07/10/2015  10:30 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joe Della Barba  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee 

I do have to give a shout-out to the nice ladies over that the doc center. They 
straightened out a paperwork mess for me. The state, if anything like Maryland, 
will bend you over, steal your money, not even buy you dinner, and then spend 
it on something else anyway. I would pay $200 for dredging if they SWEAR it 
will be paid directly to the dredging company, but that is NOT where it goes L
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 9:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
 
Fees for initial documentation and for changes also went up at the same time 
that the new renewal fee became effective. IIRC it was part of some budget bill 
that made user fees dependent on the clerical costs involved in the process, or 
some such. There is an explanation on the USCG Vessel Documentation website.
 
And the USCG has also asked for comments about a proposed rule change to allow 
for multi-year documentation. The comment period may be over, but you might 
still get a chance to endorse the idea, Joe. I know I sent in a comment.
 
I agree, it’s not the $, it’s the PITA paperwork.
 
And as far as dollars go – you could be in North Carolina, where the 
legislature is proposing a “Coastal Boating Fee” for boats over 24 ft. and all 
fishing boats that will be $195 PER YEAR (in addition to the current $55 per 
year registration fee) for my 38. The money is purportedly to be used for 
dredging the inlets and ICW…. But I noticed a $6 million dollar earmark for 
buying right of way for the proposed new bridge over Oregon Inlet.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 4:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
 
The $$ do not bother me – the PITA of doing it YEARLY does!
Come on – 5 years or something!
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 4:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
 
Oh, but it’s NOT a tax, it’s a user fee…   :^)
 
Seems like a lot to charge to administer something that basically takes about a 
minute to file every year.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
 
On Jul 9, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
Yep another tax from Uncle Sam...
 ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

One possibility is the vent line. Mine ran from a transom mounted vent and had 
a long, flattish run before reaching the tank.

It turns out some water would get in the line now and then. In rougher seas, 
the water would occasionally settle in a flat spot and block the line 
completely, preventing the fuel pump from pulling from the tank.

I moved the vent much closer to the tank, with a vertical orientation, which 
solved the problem.

I had a similar situation with the vent for the holding tank. When it clogged, 
pumping the head would create leaks in the system. No fun at all.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Petar Horvatic via CnC-List  
Date:07/06/2015  9:09 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Petar Horvatic  
Subject: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank 

Anyone has an idea why this happened twice in a row. 
 
Two trips to Block island this year and at about the same spot, right where 
seas get a little lumpy, and on about half full tank, diesel sucks in air and 
dies.  First time was pounding into 20-kts (not a good way to travel), second 
time with no wind but large confused seas. 
The first time I sailed and dropped a hook before bleeding the injectors.   
Second time I added 5 gal jerry can and after bleeding injectors in 6 foot 
swell got her started without a problem.   Ran fine after that in same 
conditions.
 
I guess I should check to make sure fuel gauge is calibrated, although I’ve 
been using it the past 3-4 years. 
 
 
Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI
 
 ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cruising/max speed for 1980 C&C 32

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I have the same 2GM20F engine in my current boat, a Bristol 30 that officially 
weighs 8,700 pounds as opposed to the 32's 9,600.

I regularly reach 6.3 knots in flat water at 3,000 rpm. It cruises comfortably 
at 5.5 knots at about 2,300 rpm.

I have a two-bladed prop at 14 X 11 in an aperture. It's a little overpropped, 
but it works fine for now.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "D.J. Platt via CnC-List"  
Date:06/24/2015  1:25 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "D.J. Platt"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising/max speed for 1980 C&C 32 

The 32 is underpowered.  I have seen the same engine in a 27 which weighs 
4000 lbs less.  I get about 5.4 at 2700 and 5.9 at 3300 rpm.  I have a fixed 
2 blade prop.

Other than that, you got a great boat.

Cheers

david

C&C32 Wanderer

--
From: "Hans-Erik Andersen via CnC-List" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2015 12:54 AM
To: 
Cc: "Hans-Erik Andersen" 
Subject: Stus-List Cruising/max speed for 1980 C&C 32

> I've recently purchased a 1980 C&C 32 with a yanmar 2GM20F 18 hp diesel. 
> We're having some propeller/power issues, and I'm wondering if anyone here 
> would have idea of what the approx. cruising/max speed should be for this 
> boat and engine. I'getting 5.9 kts at full throttle (3400 rpm) and 5.3 kts 
> knots at 2800 rpm. Is this reasonable, or cause for concern?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stupid Club

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

About 30 - some years ago, a friend of mine and I decided to sail my 19 footer 
from Fort Lauderdale to the Upper Keys.

Being in our 20s, our provisions were a loaf of bread, a jar of peanut butter, 
a plastic container of water, several packs of cigarettes and two cases of beer.

We had no radio, so we didn't know a tropical wave had formed. We were forced 
to take shelter on an uninhabited island called Elliott Key.

Once at a small dock there, we stupidly left the hatch partly open - allowing a 
raccoon to crawl in, slash the water container, eat the loaf of bread and shred 
the cigarettes.

By the time we got back from exploring the island, the raccoon had opened the 
peanut butter and was walking around the dock with his head inside the jar.

We were saved when a German showed up with his son on another small sailboat. 
He had plenty of food and cigarettes, but no beer to pass the two days it took 
for the storm to pass. 

We were able to strike a deal.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Date:05/20/2015  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stupid Club 

I don’t know if anyone else on the list has been following Michael Robertson’s 
blog, aboard the sailing vessel Del Viento; he also writes columns for Cruising 
World.  They just reached the Marquesas, having left Mexico a few weeks ago.  
He writes about an “ooops” in a recent post:

http://www.logofdelviento.blogspot.com/2015/04/day-9-at-end-of-our-rope.html

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 20, 2015, at 8:18 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Aniother stupid oil trick!
 
Pumped oil out of my Beta 25, changed filter, added what seemed like more oil 
than should have been necessary and started her up.
 
Ran fine until oil pressure alarm sounded, shut down, checked level, seemed low 
so added another quart or so (figured the oil filter was now full),
started her up and in another few moments oil alarm goes off again.
 
Went below to look around and to my HORROR found that most of my aft cabin  
(cushions, ceiling, cabinet covers, etc.) was covered in oil and the aft sole
had about 1/2 inch of oil on it!  Sat down, about cried, cursed for 10 minutes 
at least at what had happened--and I had changed the oil many times before so 
this was
a really stupid trick.
 
Not certain but a combination of a not tight enough oil filter, or it might 
have blown a hole in the filter itself plus adding too much oil forced the 
extra out the filter seal and
the oil overflow tube which conveniently dripped the excess oil behind the fan 
on the alternator. With the access panel off for the oil change, the oil was 
blown mostly out
of the engine space into my aft cabin.
 
Several cover washings with lots of Shout got it out of them after destroying 
most of the zippers to get them off the cushions--good old ultrasuede now 20 
years old and well washed!.
 
Had to have the zippers and upholstery buttons replaced on all 4 cushions plus 
an entirely new cushion for the largest one (of course). Total cost ~ $600 plus
about 8 hours of work/aggravation to clean the cabin and covers. Lessons 
learned about being careful on even such simple jobs--PRICELESS!
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
 
cenel...@aol.com


-Original Message-
From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Sent: Tue, May 19, 2015 10:08 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stupid Club

I left the oil cap off once.  Ran the boat hard for 6 hours before I noticed.  
Also had the mess. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert"  
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 10:23:50 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Rig - crack? 

Wally: 
I have no problem admitting to my mental limitationsif I were that 
smart, I wouldn't be sailing a 31 year old boat and I wouldn't be doing 
all of the maintenance/work myself.  Possibly explains why I am a big 
fan of the C&C list. 

Here's another example of 'stupid'..changed the engine oil last Fall 
just before haul outstarted the engine after the oil change but just 
long enough to hear the engine alarm go 'off'launched this Spring 
and went for a half hour motor before docking.noticed some oil in 
the bilgenow we get to the 'stupid'..forgot to put the oil cap 
back on the to of the engine last Fall after the oil changesome oil 
spurted out of the top of the engine and made a mess all the way to the 
bilge. 

Had a big clean up.I am a full member of the 'stupid club' and 
freely admit it! 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/

Re: Stus-List Prop walk 29-2

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Don't forget about using a floating spring line if you need to back out to 
starboard.

Tie off one end of the line to your starboard stern cleat, then run it around 
the rear piling and back to the cockpit.

As you are reversing, slight tension on the line keeps your stern from going to 
port. Once you've cleared enough of the slip, more tension will bring the stern 
to starboard.

Once you get the hang of it, the technique works in all conditions.

Use a floating line to avoid tangling it in the prop. 

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Bob Hickson via CnC-List  
Date:05/15/2015  10:49 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bob Hickson  
Subject: Stus-List Prop walk 29-2 

Hi Martin,
 
I bought a 29-2 in the US in the spring of 2012.
The original prop (think it was C&C original) was a fixed 2 blade – Federal 
Sailor 14RH9.
Prop walk was bad with this prop.
In the spring of 2013, I swapped the prop for a used CDI, 3 blade feathering 
prop with a 13 inch diameter. This prop has an adjustable pitch and I do not 
know what it is set at. The prop was purchased from another 29-2 owner and the 
pitch was set up for the boat.
Performance with this prop is a huge improvement. Much more aggressive thrust 
with the 3 blades in forward and reverse. The boat stops and accelerates very 
quickly. Also a slight improvement in boat speed up to 6 – 6.5 knots with no 
issues even in strong headwinds and heavy seas.
Even with this prop, walk is still a concern.
You can manage it as others have suggested.
When backing out of my slip (requires turn to starboard) I give a very strong 
burst of reverse (~5 seconds) to get the boat moving. Immediately throttle 
back, shift into neutral and steer. If you lose way, another burst of reverse 
may be needed.
When conditions are really bad with a strong cross wind from the port side, I 
will back out of my slip to port and back down the fairway between slips until 
I clear the docks and can turn.
When entering my slip, I angle in with the bow slightly to the port side. A 
quick shot of reverse with very little throttle will straighten the boat in the 
slip and stop it.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Fair Winds,
 
Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 
 ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Launched!

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

The last  time  I tried to go boldly where no man has gone before (last week), 
I ended up on a sandbar ...

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Date:05/07/2015  5:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list Cnc-List  
Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Stus-List Launched! 

Listers,

I'm proud to report that the Starship Enterprise was launched today with the 
tide. 

We shall continue the voyages we have begun, seeking out new worlds and new 
civilizations. Boldly going where no man, or no one, had gone before. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Chartbook Question

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Has anyone found a good way to print the NOAA online charts? It seems that you 
should be able to make good chart kits on your own. I've been meaning to 
inquire at Kinko and other print on demand places.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: LKL via CnC-List  
Date:04/21/2015  5:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Frederick G Street ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chartbook Question 

 
Fred,  the old saying “you get what you pay for” probably applies even more so 
to charts such as these.  Thanks for letting me know.
 
Lloyd
 
 
 
 
From: Frederick G Street
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2015 4:06 PM
To: Lloyd Lippe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chartbook Question
 
Lloyd — thanks for the nice words; and +1 on Dennis’ suggestion.  I’ve 
purchased and used the Chartkit Region 9 for the Bahamas, and they’re a little 
pricey but really nice to use.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
On Apr 21, 2015, at 4:02 PM, LKL via CnC-List  wrote:

 
Thanks Dennis,  very good suggestion.  Spoke with MapTech and will be ordering 
chartbooks 7,9, and 10.
 
Lloyd
 
 
 
 
From: Dennis C.
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2015 1:05 PM
To: lklarchite...@gmail.com ; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chartbook Question
 
Lloyd,

I have the MapTech Chartkit for my region and really, really like it.  They 
aren't cheap but having all the large and smaller scale charts in one easy to 
use package is great.  The different scale charts are very handy for vessels 
making coastal passages and then moving to ICW or inland waters.  You can look 
at the big picture on a small scale chart then switch to a large scale chart 
when you enter a port or harbor.

Even though I've made the transit dozens of times, I keep the chartkit on the 
dining table for quick reference.

After a looong hiatus, Maptech just came out with the 4th edition of the Region 
16 NewOrleans to Panama City chartkit.  I didn't waste any time buying a 
copy.  My old spare 3rd editions are still valuable.  I've sold one already and 
have one on eBay.  I have yet another.

You may consider grabbing used, older editions for the regions you need from 
eBay.  There will be differences between editions.  I've noticed some in my 
area.  For instance, the Marianne Channel near Cat Island in Mississippi Sound 
has been renumbered.  Some shoals may have moved slightly but not much. 

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
 
On Tue, Apr 21, 2015 at 12:37 PM, LKL via CnC-List  
wrote:
 
 
Hello Listers.  Thanks to so many of you for your help over the last few years 
and especially Fred Street for his excellant guidance on my new electronics and 
more. I am close to departing the Texas coast for the Florida Keys and eastward 
onto the Bahamas and the Caribbean.
 
I have downloaded and printed NOAA charts from Texas to Florida but am looking 
to add paper chart books eastward and would appreciate any recommendations in 
that regard.
 
Sincerely,
 
Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
Landfall 39
Rockport, Tx___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rec sailing books

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

John is an old friend of mine. His daughters and mine were best friends growing 
up in Fort Lauderdale.

I can tell you he is just as entertaining in person, if not more, especially 
when he has a beer in his hand. 

For those who want to do more than read, he runs an adventure sailing business 
that can take you across the atlantic, through the Med, etc. He has a website 
called yayablues.com with more details.

He also does boat show seminars that are well worth attending, especially if 
you have thoughts of bluewater cruising.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Chuck S via CnC-List  
Date:04/05/2015  2:21 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Subject: Stus-List rec sailing books 

I've been binge reading John Kretschmer's books, because the flu has me 
grounded.  They are funny stories of his many sailboat deliveries.   I am 
grateful to vicariously live his life of crossing oceans, sailing thru gales, 
from the comfort of a warm armchair.   They instruct as well as entertain.  In 
only a week, I rounded the Horn in Contessa 32, crossed the Pacific to Japan in 
a big ketch, and crossed the Atlantic several times, w stops in Bermuda, the 
Azores, Spain, the Mediterranean England even Germany and Sweden.

I highly recommend these books to all:

Cape Horn To Starboard
Flirting With Mermaids
Sailing A Serious Ocean

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List FYI 5200

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Better it hardens in the tube than somewhere on your boat, where it will be 
impossible to remove ... Many people refuse to use the stuff except for the 
most extreme repairs.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Petar Horvatic via CnC-List  
Date:03/18/2015  9:27 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Bill Coleman' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI 5200 

Few years back I bought one of those, forgot if it was from Lowes or HD, and it 
was rock solid when I tried to use it.  
 
Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List FYI 5200
 
A real find, I think – just discovered tubes of 5200 at Lowes for only 12 bucks.
Might not be at every store, but . . .
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie PA
 ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

It really depends on how protected an anchorage is in a particular storm. Wind 
is a secondary concern, as long as you strip the boat.

If there's a small fetch, a well- designed mooring in a well-protected 
anchorage is not at risk with normal precautions. My C&C 25 rode out 4 small 
hurricanes with few problems other than a couple of snapped lines.

60-70 MPh shouldn't be a big deal.

When the wind shifted, though, allowing 120 MPh gusts to roar for 4-5 miles 
before slamming into my boat, that was different ... and eventually wrecked her.

You want the stretch in mooring lines for those rare occasions when the seas 
are rolling into your anchorage.  Everything is going to be taut, and something 
has to give when the strain is great.

Chain won't do much to help. Those lines will snap periodically, and you just 
have to hope you have enough of them to outlast the storm.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Date:03/14/2015  10:58 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring 

I___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

As someone whose C&C 25 went through 4 small and 1 large hurricanes on a 
mooring at Key Biscayne:

You want to size mooring lines so there is some give, just like an anchor line. 
Bigger is not necessarily better. 

In a large storm, stagger maybe 5 lines of different length so that one takes 
over as another breaks. They will break in big storms.

I never saw a mooring cleat pull out. Lines always went first. A main culprit 
was an unusually large wave that would pull the bow up and snap a perfectly 
good, protected line. Make the lines as long as they can be in a storm.

I was on a helix mooring. The anchors always held, but a weak point was the 
line from the helix to the mooring. They need to be replaced every few years or 
after particularly bad storms like hurricanes.

Duct tape makes good chafe guard in a fix.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List  
Date:03/14/2015  11:06 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Paul Baker ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring 

null___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

With sea water in the 80s and even the 90s sometimes, you can get bottom growth 
quickly in central and southern Florida.  With no paint, after a month, the 
bottom would be covered in algae and barnacles. 

In Tampa Bay, where I now live, algae growth is so intense that you can't buy 
or use many types of fertilizer in the summer.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date:03/11/2015  2:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint 

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and haul 
regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably monthly.

You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:
I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with 
monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will 
haul at around five years.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 

Thanks

 

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

 

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with 
monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will 
haul at around five years.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
Date:03/11/2015  12:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 

Thanks
 
Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness
 
Mike
Persistence
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint
 
+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: mike amirault via CnC-List  
Date:03/10/2015  8:24 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint 

Yes, I find CSC equally effective. It does depend on where you keep your boat, 
though, some areas tend to attract more "fuzz" than others. This may be the 
case for Dwight who is located way up the head of St Margarets bay.___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Start with Sailorman in Fort Lauderdale. Www.sailorman.com to get their phoner. 
It's a huge, old-fashioned chandlery with a great staff. If they don't have it, 
they will connect you with the people who do.

Jack Brennan
Former C@C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Date:02/18/2015  10:29 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Bruno Lachance ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida 

Bruno

Cutlass bearings vary in length and outside diameter. 

Joel

On Wednesday, February 18, 2015, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
Hi,
 
I need the help and support of the list to find a solution for a friend of mine 
that is stock with his boat and family in Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas. His 1 
inch shaft (the boat) simply broke in two pieces after catching a line at 2600 
rpr. Probably a manufacturing defect. He needs replacement parts before he 
haulout the boat for the repair.
 
I am waiting for precise specifications (lenght, size, etc...), but he needs to 
find a shop in Florida that could ship him the replacement parts ASAP. He needs 
a new 1 inch shaft and a new cutlass bearing and would also like a drive saver 
coupling plate. Specifications following soon...
 
Anybody outthere that could help me help him ? 
 
I am looking for references on a good shop that could take charge of this and 
organize the shipping, any onsite help would also be appreciated if needed. I 
am in Quebec, Canada.
 
I could pay the order via my credit card on the phone.
 
Thanks a lot, please contact me off the list if you are in a position to assist.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New-richmond, Qc
 
 
 
 
 


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com