Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Dan Utinske via CnC-List]

Sam,

I have to say you're a hell of a lot smarter than me.. I'm working at Fort
Lewis (Program Manager) providing aviation maintenance support throughout
the Western United States including Alaska and Hawaii and you're sitting in
a bar in Antigua!

I'm taking a similar course that will certify me ASA 103 near Tyee Marina
in Tacoma - should also be a larger vessel and the cost are similar.  Like
you I am anal about sail form and shape and while I may not be looking for
speed I am looking for efficiency.

Learning about my 26' is fun; I also have an Ericson 23' that I take out in
light winds basically because it's easier to prepare.   I do appreciate
your taking time from your busy schedule to respond and if you have any
secrets on the 26 I'd surely appreciate it.

Have a great time!

Regards,

Dan

On Wed, Jan 28, 2015 at 6:45 AM, Sam Salter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> ‎Yeah, I've got a bunch of sail trim books - most I keep in the bathroom
> where I have time to sit and cogitate!
>
> About 6 years ago I took an advanced sail trim course out of Bellingham,
> WA. Boat was a custom 52 ft Wylie (sp) with every conceivable sail trim
> option. Course was about $400 and well worth it. Gave me a whole new level
> of trim understanding.
>
> I'm an aeronautical engineer so I'm quite anal about sail trim and
> probably tweak more often than necessary, but it's all part of the fun.
>
> This stuff is not "rocket science " but I am one anyway!!!
>
> sam :-)
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta
> (currently Dufour 42 / Jolly Harbour Antigua)
>   *From: *Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> *Sent: *Wednesday, January 28, 2015 10:08 AM
> *To: *Dan; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Reply To: *Marek Dziedzic
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Cunningham
>
>  Sam,
>
> for some winter reading get yourself some books on trim and sail use and
> general sailing.
>
> There are few online (PDF) sources that might be of interest (e.g.:
> http://sfbaysss.net/resource/doc/SinglehandedTipsThirdEdition.pdf, or
> http://setsail.com/mwh.pdf, or http://setsail.com/sts.pdf).
>
> But probably the best one book I could recommend is Don Guillette’s Sail
> Trim Guide (http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html).
> This might be the best $25 you ever spend on the boat.
>
> Marek
>
>  *From:* Dan via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 28, 2015 6:42 AM
> *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cunningham
>
>  Sam,
>
> Well for certain I’m filled with envy considering I’m sitting in the
> Pacific North West and thought last weekends 63 degrees was fantastic for
> sailing (winds 10 - 15 KTS).  But I’d much rather be where you are!  I’m a
> relatively new sailor with a 26’ that I’ve had for about 6 months - and I’m
> always anxious to learn the nuances of the boat.  It came with a large
> selection of very nice sails (6) and my first attempts at sailing her went
> very well and I was solo.  While new at sailing boats I have a lifetime of
> using the wind for power with over 30 years as a hang glider pilot, wind
> surfer, and paraglider pilot.  So it’s learning the mechanics of how best
> to set sails; at this point the proper way of raising the sails.  I’m
> taking ASA sailing lessons in April which should show me some of the
> equipment that I’m not familiar with.  If you have any words of wisdom
> aside from sitting in a bar in Antigua, sounds so nice, I surely appreciate
> it.
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Dan Utinske
> C&C 26'
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 1:00 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
>
>  ‎I'm sitting here in a bar on the dock in Jolly Harbour, Antigua.
> The boat we’re sailing doesn't have one and I must admit I didn't miss it
> - you can work around it and the sailing priorities are different.
> But I have one on the 26 and I have a jack line.
> I wouldn't be without it! I use it all the time to bring the draft forward
> without cupping the leech. If you're racing, it allows the draft to be
> brought forward without going above the black line.
> That's all - I need another gin and tonic.
>
> Sam :-)
>  ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bott

Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Yeah, I've got a bunch of sail trim books - most I keep in the bathroom where I have time to sit and cogitate! About 6 years ago I took an advanced sail trim course out of Bellingham, WA. Boat was a custom 52 ft Wylie (sp) with every conceivable sail trim option. Course was about $400 and well worth it. Gave me a whole new level of trim understanding.I'm an aeronautical engineer so I'm quite anal about sail trim and probably tweak more often than necessary, but it's all part of the fun.This stuff is not "rocket science " but I am one anyway!!!  sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta (currently Dufour 42 / Jolly Harbour Antigua)  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 10:08 AMTo: Dan; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Marek DziedzicSubject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham



Sam, 
 
for some winter reading get yourself some books on trim and sail use and 
general sailing.
 
There are few online (PDF) sources that might be of interest (e.g.: http://sfbaysss.net/resource/doc/SinglehandedTipsThirdEdition.pdf, 
or http://setsail.com/mwh.pdf, or http://setsail.com/sts.pdf). 
 
But probably the best one book I could recommend is Don Guillette’s Sail 
Trim Guide (http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html). 
This might be the best $25 you ever spend on the boat.
 
Marek


 

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 6:42 AM
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
 

Sam, 
 
Well for certain I’m filled with envy considering I’m sitting in the 
Pacific North West and thought last weekends 63 degrees was fantastic for 
sailing (winds 10 - 15 KTS).  But I’d much rather be where you are!  
I’m a relatively new sailor with a 26’ that I’ve had for about 6 months - and 
I’m always anxious to learn the nuances of the boat.  It came with a large 
selection of very nice sails (6) and my first attempts at sailing her went very 
well and I was solo.  While new at sailing boats I have a lifetime of using 
the wind for power with over 30 years as a hang glider pilot, wind surfer, and 
paraglider pilot.  So it’s learning the mechanics of how best to set sails; 
at this point the proper way of raising the sails.  I’m taking ASA sailing 
lessons in April which should show me some of the equipment that I’m not 
familiar with.  If you have any words of wisdom aside from sitting in a bar 
in Antigua, sounds so nice, I surely appreciate it.
 
Kind Regards,
 
Dan Utinske
C&C 26'

 
 
 
Dan
 
On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 1:00 PM, Sam Salter 
via CnC-List wrote:

  
  
  ‎I'm sitting 
  here in a bar on the dock in Jolly Harbour, Antigua. 
  The boat 
  we’re sailing doesn't have one and I must admit I didn't miss it - you can 
  work around it and the sailing priorities are different. 
  But I have 
  one on the 26 and I have a jack line.
  I wouldn't be 
  without it! I use it all the time to bring the draft forward without cupping 
  the leech. If you're racing, it allows the draft to be brought forward without 
  going above the black line.
  That's all - 
  I need another gin and tonic.
  
  Sam 
  :-)
  
  ___
   
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Sam, 

for some winter reading get yourself some books on trim and sail use and 
general sailing.

There are few online (PDF) sources that might be of interest (e.g.: 
http://sfbaysss.net/resource/doc/SinglehandedTipsThirdEdition.pdf, or 
http://setsail.com/mwh.pdf, or http://setsail.com/sts.pdf). 

But probably the best one book I could recommend is Don Guillette’s Sail Trim 
Guide (http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html). This might 
be the best $25 you ever spend on the boat.

Marek

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 6:42 AM
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham

Sam, 

Well for certain I’m filled with envy considering I’m sitting in the Pacific 
North West and thought last weekends 63 degrees was fantastic for sailing 
(winds 10 - 15 KTS).  But I’d much rather be where you are!  I’m a relatively 
new sailor with a 26’ that I’ve had for about 6 months - and I’m always anxious 
to learn the nuances of the boat.  It came with a large selection of very nice 
sails (6) and my first attempts at sailing her went very well and I was solo.  
While new at sailing boats I have a lifetime of using the wind for power with 
over 30 years as a hang glider pilot, wind surfer, and paraglider pilot.  So 
it’s learning the mechanics of how best to set sails; at this point the proper 
way of raising the sails.  I’m taking ASA sailing lessons in April which should 
show me some of the equipment that I’m not familiar with.  If you have any 
words of wisdom aside from sitting in a bar in Antigua, sounds so nice, I 
surely appreciate it.

Kind Regards,

Dan Utinske
C&C 26'



Dan

On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 1:00 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:

  ‎I'm sitting here in a bar on the dock in Jolly Harbour, Antigua. 
  The boat we’re sailing doesn't have one and I must admit I didn't miss it - 
you can work around it and the sailing priorities are different. 
  But I have one on the 26 and I have a jack line.
  I wouldn't be without it! I use it all the time to bring the draft forward 
without cupping the leech. If you're racing, it allows the draft to be brought 
forward without going above the black line.
  That's all - I need another gin and tonic.


  Sam :-)
  ___

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of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Dan via CnC-List]

Sam,

Well for certain I’m filled with envy considering I’m sitting in the Pacific 
North West and thought last weekends 63 degrees was fantastic for sailing 
(winds 10 - 15 KTS).  But I’d much rather be where you are!  I’m a relatively 
new sailor with a 26’ that I’ve had for about 6 months - and I’m always anxious 
to learn the nuances of the boat.  It came with a large selection of very nice 
sails (6) and my first attempts at sailing her went very well and I was solo.  
While new at sailing boats I have a lifetime of using the wind for power with 
over 30 years as a hang glider pilot, wind surfer, and paraglider pilot.  So 
it’s learning the mechanics of how best to set sails; at this point the proper 
way of raising the sails.  I’m taking ASA sailing lessons in April which should 
show me some of the equipment that I’m not familiar with.  If you have any 
words of wisdom aside from sitting in a bar in Antigua, sounds so nice, I 
surely appreciate it.

Kind Regards,

Dan Utinske
C&C 26'




Dan


On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 1:00 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:

> ‎I'm sitting here in a bar on the dock in Jolly Harbour, Antigua.  
> The boat we’re sailing doesn't have one and I must admit I didn't miss it - 
> you can work around it and the sailing priorities are different.  
> But I have one on the 26 and I have a jack line.
> I wouldn't be without it! I use it all the time to bring the draft forward 
> without cupping the leech. If you're racing, it allows the draft to be 
> brought forward without going above the black line.
> That's all - I need another gin and tonic.
>  
> Sam :-)  
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com (mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com)
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>  
>  


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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Antoine,
We used to call that a flattening reef.  It doesn't change the sail area much 
at all, but it does effectively flatter the main as wind increases and allows 
pointing higher as you point out.
Ron
Wild Cheri


On Sun, 1/25/15, Antoine Rose via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
 To: "David Paine" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Sunday, January 25, 2015, 10:44 PM
 
 Hi David,
 
 To answer your question, we
 need to go back a bit to the origin the cunningham. Well,
 the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that
 the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the
 full length of your mast. Wind is light, not too much
 tension is needed on the halyard. As wind increases, more is
 needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned but the
 wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and,
 since you're racing you don't want to give any water
 to that boat just beside yours. As the wind increases, the
 sail draft moves back, increasing heeling and reducing
 speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just that, bringing
 the draft forward for two reasons: it increases the
 tensioning but also, because the cunningham grommet is
 slightly aft of the sail, pull forward the main foot.
 
 Having the grommet has another
 advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet on the leach
 side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how
 it's called in English, "ris de fond" in
 French). This very small reef does not reduce substantially
 the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A
 flatter main points higher and reduce heeling.
 
 Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I don't have one; just the weave line.  I wish I had the cunningham since it 
makes the trim so much easier.
It's too much effort to untie the weave line on reaches, so it doesn't get 
done.  With the cunningham, it would just be a flick of the wrist to throw off 
or on.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


On Sun, 1/25/15, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
 To: "David Paine" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Sunday, January 25, 2015, 8:41 PM
 
 Touche' has a 4:1
 cunningham which hooks into a grommet.  We also use the
 cunningham for the reef.
 Dennis C.
 
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 
 Mandeville, LA
 On Jan 25, 2015 4:32
 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 Hi All,
 I'm buying a new mainsail and I
 am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding question.   Do you
 have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not in
 my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with
 a jack line (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My
 new sail definitely won't have a jack-line.  Some
 adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate
 Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the
 Cunningham line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My
 sailmaker has an opinion but my question is, which do you
 use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of
 course.
 Cheers,
 David
 
 ___
 
 
 
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 go to the bottom of page at:
 
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 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
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 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Was an interesting weekend.  One of the three 115s that took part 
has been sold and has moved away, a second is now for sale and the 
third raced very little last year




Hi Mike,

Sounds familiar!  I knew a local skipper that sailed his Cal 29 
really well.  You'd look away for second and he'd tacked over into 
the better current or wind and was way ahead - again!  He bought a 
J109, new everything, and the sail-makers sailed with him for the 
first season.  He won almost everything that year.  The second year 
he didn't buy new sails, begged for crew, and was way back in the 
pack.  I sail with him and was so surprised.  He lost track of all 
his experience, second guessed every trim and course decision, made 
dumb moves, and sweated an cursed.  No fun sailing with him at all.


I'm convinced the sail-makers & "rock stars" totally confused him.

Out last, out play. . .

Cheers, Lee


--
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue NW #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List Cunningham / reefing?

[davidrisch75 via CnC-List]

Poor or not...I run aline from mast collar thru cringle then to 4 to 1 
purchase.  Works like a charm.


David F. Risch.

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.

 Original message From: Lee Youngblood via 
CnC-List  Date:01/27/2015  5:52 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: Brent Driedger , 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham / reefing? 


Good sailmakers will suggest a dogbone, a strip
of wbbing with an O-ring on each end through the
reef grommet or ring.  They might sew one side
for you and have you hand stitch the other ring
on.  It's MUCH easier to get that ring on your
hook.  Or you can use a cunningham with a hook
like this,
http://www.atlanticriggingsupply.com/wi2snho.html
to pull it down with.  Course we are so poor, I
just take a scrap line down under the gooseneck
and around the front of the mast an quickly tie
it down and raise the halyard.  What ever works.
. .



>I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce
>pressure on the double hook thing above the
>gooseneck.
>That being said, I don't think my double hook
>thing (tack hook) has ever been properly
>installed since I've owned the boat. It's a
>stainless rod that becomes the hinge pin of the
>gooseneck and has a very small hole through it
>at the bottom where I place a small washer and
>split pin to hold it in place.  Without the
>Cunningham in place the upward tension on the
>luff of the main places a lot of load on this
>little pin and I have had one break while reefed
>after forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted
>in gooseneck separation which killed my race as
>fitting it all back together in 25 knots with a
>boom kicker is nearly impossible without taking
>everything apart.
>What is the proper configuration of this little
>double hook thing (tack hook)? Is there
>something better than a split pin for this?
>
>Brent D
>27-5
>Lake Winnipeg.
>
>
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via
>CnC-List
><<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>wrote:
>
>>FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of
>>using the Cunningham and Flattening Reef.
>>These tweaks are used similarly on all
>>mainsails, from dinghies to bigger keel boats.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Chuck
>>Resolute
>>1990 C&C 34R
>>Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>>
>>
>>From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List"
>><<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>To: "David Paine"
>><<mailto:paineda...@gmail.com>paineda...@gmail.com>,
>><mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
>>
>>
>>Hi David,
>>
>>
>>To answer your question, we need to go back a
>>bit to the origin the cunningham. Well, the
>>main sail is up and properly tensioned, which
>>mean that the halyard point is close to the
>>mast top block to use the full length of your
>>mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is
>>needed on the halyard. As wind increases, more
>>is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully
>>tensioned but the wind still get a bit
>>stronger, but not enough to reef and, since
>>you're racing you don't want to give any water
>>to that boat just beside yours. As the wind
>>increases, the sail draft moves back,
>>increasing heeling and reducing speed.
>>Tensioning the cunningham does just that,
>>bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it
>>increases the tensioning but also, because the
>>cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail,
>>pull forward the main foot.
>>
>>
>>Having the grommet has another advantage. If
>>you have a corresponding grommet on the leach
>>side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry,
>>don't how it's called in English, "ris de fond"
>>in French). This very small reef does not
>>reduce substantially the size of the sail but
>>removes much of the draft. A flatter main
>>points higher and reduce heeling.
>>
>>
>>Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
>>
>>
>>Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
>>
>>
>>  > Hi All,
>>>
>>>  I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to
>>>ask a ridiculous-sounding question.   Do you
>>>have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?
>>>I do not in my current sail but that is
>>>because Hood made the sail with a jack line
>>>(or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My
>>>new sail definitely won&#x

Re: Stus-List Cunningham / reefing?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Good sailmakers will suggest a dogbone, a strip 
of wbbing with an O-ring on each end through the 
reef grommet or ring.  They might sew one side 
for you and have you hand stitch the other ring 
on.  It's MUCH easier to get that ring on your 
hook.  Or you can use a cunningham with a hook 
like this, 
http://www.atlanticriggingsupply.com/wi2snho.html 
to pull it down with.  Course we are so poor, I 
just take a scrap line down under the gooseneck 
and around the front of the mast an quickly tie 
it down and raise the halyard.  What ever works. 
. .




I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce 
pressure on the double hook thing above the 
gooseneck.
That being said, I don't think my double hook 
thing (tack hook) has ever been properly 
installed since I've owned the boat. It's a 
stainless rod that becomes the hinge pin of the 
gooseneck and has a very small hole through it 
at the bottom where I place a small washer and 
split pin to hold it in place.  Without the 
Cunningham in place the upward tension on the 
luff of the main places a lot of load on this 
little pin and I have had one break while reefed 
after forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted 
in gooseneck separation which killed my race as 
fitting it all back together in 25 knots with a 
boom kicker is nearly impossible without taking 
everything apart.
What is the proper configuration of this little 
double hook thing (tack hook)? Is there 
something better than a split pin for this?


Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.



Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via 
CnC-List 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of 
using the Cunningham and Flattening Reef.
These tweaks are used similarly on all 
mainsails, from dinghies to bigger keel boats. 





Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List" 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "David Paine" 
<<mailto:paineda...@gmail.com>paineda...@gmail.com>, 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham


Hi David,


To answer your question, we need to go back a 
bit to the origin the cunningham. Well, the 
main sail is up and properly tensioned, which 
mean that the halyard point is close to the 
mast top block to use the full length of your 
mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is 
needed on the halyard. As wind increases, more 
is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully 
tensioned but the wind still get a bit 
stronger, but not enough to reef and, since 
you're racing you don't want to give any water 
to that boat just beside yours. As the wind 
increases, the sail draft moves back, 
increasing heeling and reducing speed. 
Tensioning the cunningham does just that, 
bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it 
increases the tensioning but also, because the 
cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail, 
pull forward the main foot.



Having the grommet has another advantage. If 
you have a corresponding grommet on the leach 
side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, 
don't how it's called in English, "ris de fond" 
in French). This very small reef does not 
reduce substantially the size of the sail but 
removes much of the draft. A flatter main 
points higher and reduce heeling.



Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)


Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :


 > Hi All,


 I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to 
ask a ridiculous-sounding question.   Do you 
have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail? 
I do not in my current sail but that is 
because Hood made the sail with a jack line 
(or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My 
new sail definitely won't have a jack-line. 
Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, 
others use a separate Cunningham grommet with 
a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham 
line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My 
sailmaker has an opinion but my question is, 
which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless 
when reefed, of course.

 >

 Cheers,

 David
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Try a bolt.  Maybe over drill the hole and up size the bolt.  A nylock wing
nut and washers.  Drill a small hole in the end of the thread to accept a
split ring just in case the wing nut backs off.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 26, 2015 10:56 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce pressure on the double hook
> thing above the gooseneck.
> That being said, I don't think my double hook thing (tack hook) has ever
> been properly installed since I've owned the boat. It's a stainless rod
> that becomes the hinge pin of the gooseneck and has a very small hole
> through it at the bottom where I place a small washer and split pin to hold
> it in place.  Without the Cunningham in place the upward tension on the
> luff of the main places a lot of load on this little pin and I have had one
> break while reefed after forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted in
> gooseneck separation which killed my race as fitting it all back together
> in 25 knots with a boom kicker is nearly impossible without taking
> everything apart.
> What is the proper configuration of this little double hook thing (tack
> hook)? Is there something better than a split pin for this?
>
> Brent D
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of using the Cunningham and
> Flattening Reef.
> These tweaks are used similarly on all mainsails, from dinghies to bigger
> keel boats.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ----------
> *From: *"Antoine Rose via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"David Paine" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Cunningham
>
> Hi David,
>
> To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the
> cunningham. Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean
> that the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the full
> length of your mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is needed on the
> halyard. As wind increases, more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is
> fully tensioned but the wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to
> reef and, since you're racing you don't want to give any water to that boat
> just beside yours. As the wind increases, the sail draft moves back,
> increasing heeling and reducing speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just
> that, bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it increases the
> tensioning but also, because the cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the
> sail, pull forward the main foot.
>
> Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding
> grommet on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how
> it's called in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does
> not reduce substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the
> draft. A flatter main points higher and reduce heeling.
>
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
>
> Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not
> in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
> (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have
> a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a
> separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham
> line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but
> my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed,
> of course.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > David
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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> >
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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> http:

Re: Stus-List Cunningham - Flattening reef

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I do it the opposite way.  I use the reef point dog bone to attach a snap hook 
with a block and use that as my Cunningham.  When I want to reef, I just pull 
this down so I can reef from the cockpit.  If I don’t mind leaving he cockpit 
(not single handing), I move the snap hook to the next reef point dog bone and 
hook the first dog bone ring over the  horns on the boom so I retain a 
Cunningham for the reefed sail.  It raises the Cunningham a bit higher than 
traditional, but I don’t see that as much of a downside over reefing from the 
cockpit.  Dave

On Jan 26, 2015, at 11:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Antoine wrote:
> 
> "Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding 
> grommet on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how 
> it's called in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does 
> not reduce substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. 
> A flatter main points higher and reduce heeling."
> 
> It's called a "flattening reef".  I raced on a Pearson Flyer with one.  It 
> seemed to help when the wind piped up.
> 
> Read about it in the "Mainsheet and Traveler" section:
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham - Flattening reef

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Antoine wrote:

"Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding
grommet on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how
it's called in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does
not reduce substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the
draft. A flatter main points higher and reduce heeling."

It's called a "flattening reef".  I raced on a Pearson Flyer with one.  It
seemed to help when the wind piped up.

Read about it in the "Mainsheet and Traveler" section:



Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce pressure on the double hook thing 
above the gooseneck. 
That being said, I don't think my double hook thing (tack hook) has ever been 
properly installed since I've owned the boat. It's a stainless rod that becomes 
the hinge pin of the gooseneck and has a very small hole through it at the 
bottom where I place a small washer and split pin to hold it in place.  Without 
the Cunningham in place the upward tension on the luff of the main places a lot 
of load on this little pin and I have had one break while reefed after 
forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted in gooseneck separation which killed 
my race as fitting it all back together in 25 knots with a boom kicker is 
nearly impossible without taking everything apart.  
What is the proper configuration of this little double hook thing (tack hook)? 
Is there something better than a split pin for this?

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of using the Cunningham and 
> Flattening Reef.  
> These tweaks are used similarly on all mainsails, from dinghies to bigger 
> keel boats.  
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List" 
> To: "David Paine" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the 
> cunningham. Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that 
> the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of 
> your mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is needed on the halyard. As 
> wind increases, more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned 
> but the wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and, since 
> you're racing you don't want to give any water to that boat just beside 
> yours. As the wind increases, the sail draft moves back, increasing heeling 
> and reducing speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just that, bringing the 
> draft forward for two reasons: it increases the tensioning but also, because 
> the cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail, pull forward the main 
> foot.
> 
> Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet 
> on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how it's called 
> in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does not reduce 
> substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A flatter 
> main points higher and reduce heeling.
> 
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
> 
> Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
> 
> > Hi All,
> > 
> > I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding 
> > question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not 
> > in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line 
> > (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have 
> > a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a 
> > separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham 
> > line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but 
> > my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, 
> > of course.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > 
> > David
> > ___
> > 
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> > bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I agree with Antoine's description of using the Cunningham and Flattening 
Reef. 
These tweaks are used similarly on all mainsails, from dinghies to bigger keel 
boats. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List"  
To: "David Paine" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham 

Hi David, 

To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the cunningham. 
Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that the halyard 
point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of your mast. Wind 
is light, not too much tension is needed on the halyard. As wind increases, 
more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned but the wind still 
get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and, since you're racing you don't 
want to give any water to that boat just beside yours. As the wind increases, 
the sail draft moves back, increasing heeling and reducing speed. Tensioning 
the cunningham does just that, bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it 
increases the tensioning but also, because the cunningham grommet is slightly 
aft of the sail, pull forward the main foot. 

Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet 
on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how it's called 
in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does not reduce 
substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A flatter 
main points higher and reduce heeling. 

Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin) 

Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit : 

> Hi All, 
> 
> I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding 
> question. Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail? I do not in my 
> current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or lace 
> line) which serves the purpose. My new sail definitely won't have a 
> jack-line. Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate 
> Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a 
> winch) to set the luff tension. My sailmaker has an opinion but my question 
> is, which do you use? The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> David 
> ___ 
> 
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

We should all remember that tensioning the backstay on upwind runs loosens
the halyard so hauling it to full height under no load may not be tight
enough...hence the cunningham.  And once its loaded up the halyard is even
more difficult.

Josh
On Jan 26, 2015 12:57 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  A couple of seasons ago North Sails sponsored a tuning clinic for C&C
> 115s in our area.  We had three C&C115s out and did speed training of the
> three against each other with Andreas Josenhans and Sandy MacMillan of
> North Sails running the clinic.  There were other experts also on hand on
> the boats to lend some assistance.  During this exercise the North whaler
> would trail each of the boats for a while shooting pictures and radioing
> adjustment suggestions.  After the first day on the water there followed an
> indoor presentation based on the day's observations.
>
>
>
> One of the comments that came out from Andreas is that the sails were not
> full hoist and that as a result we were giving up some performance.  He was
> pointing at the top band on the mast and the headboard of the sail.
>
>
>
> My take away from this is to make sure your sail is full hoist and do all
> initial tensioning before the sail is under load with the halyard.
>
>
>
> Was an interesting weekend.  One of the three 115s that took part has been
> sold and has moved away, a second is now for sale and the third raced very
> little last year
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Zuehlke via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 26, 2015 1:09 PM
> *To:* Jean-Francois J Rivard; C&C email list
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cunningham
>
>
>
> I was told much the same. Tension cunningham and flattenig reef upwind,
> when roundind to bead down just release both and halyard anx outhaul
> tension are set for downwind.
>
> Was also told that the halyard tensions the luff (bolt rope) and the
> cunningham actually stretches the material of the sail itself.
>
> Gary Z
> C&C 39
> Harrison Township, MI
>
> On Jan 26, 2015 11:17 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for posing the question.
>
> Like most of you guys, I have a Cunningham cringle (And use it).  However,
> I never quite got a clear Halyard vs Cunningham answer until I did a little
> more research this am.
>
> 1st reasonable rationale:  Use the halyard to control the top half / use
> the Cunningham for the bottom.. (That's the one I was thinking of
> initially) Stands to reason as especially for quick updates the friction in
> the slides can prevent the tension from being uniform and therefore you get
> a more consistent sail throughout by using both. Come to think of it, a
> well lubed track / modern graphite impregnated  slugs make this kind of
> moot..
>
> The clever one I just read supposedly came from an experienced sail maker
> / racer:   (Assuming a well lubed track)   Set the halyard tension
> correctly for the downwind leg (Loose cunningham) and crank the cunningham
> for the ideal draft position on the upwind legs.   After rounding the
> weather mark or tack to downwind let the cunningham loose to get your
> pre-adjusted downwind tension  / focus on other stuff.   Brilliant..
>
> I'll remember that one.
>
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Ga
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

A couple of seasons ago North Sails sponsored a tuning clinic for C&C 115s in 
our area.  We had three C&C115s out and did speed training of the three against 
each other with Andreas Josenhans and Sandy MacMillan of North Sails running 
the clinic.  There were other experts also on hand on the boats to lend some 
assistance.  During this exercise the North whaler would trail each of the 
boats for a while shooting pictures and radioing adjustment suggestions.  After 
the first day on the water there followed an indoor presentation based on the 
day’s observations.

One of the comments that came out from Andreas is that the sails were not full 
hoist and that as a result we were giving up some performance.  He was pointing 
at the top band on the mast and the headboard of the sail.

My take away from this is to make sure your sail is full hoist and do all 
initial tensioning before the sail is under load with the halyard.

Was an interesting weekend.  One of the three 115s that took part has been sold 
and has moved away, a second is now for sale and the third raced very little 
last year

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zuehlke 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 1:09 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; C&C email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham


I was told much the same. Tension cunningham and flattenig reef upwind, when 
roundind to bead down just release both and halyard anx outhaul tension are set 
for downwind.

Was also told that the halyard tensions the luff (bolt rope) and the cunningham 
actually stretches the material of the sail itself.

Gary Z
C&C 39
Harrison Township, MI
On Jan 26, 2015 11:17 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks for posing the question.

Like most of you guys, I have a Cunningham cringle (And use it).  However, I 
never quite got a clear Halyard vs Cunningham answer until I did a little more 
research this am.

1st reasonable rationale:  Use the halyard to control the top half / use the 
Cunningham for the bottom.. (That's the one I was thinking of initially) Stands 
to reason as especially for quick updates the friction in the slides can 
prevent the tension from being uniform and therefore you get a more consistent 
sail throughout by using both. Come to think of it, a well lubed track / modern 
graphite impregnated  slugs make this kind of moot..

The clever one I just read supposedly came from an experienced sail maker / 
racer:   (Assuming a well lubed track)   Set the halyard tension correctly for 
the downwind leg (Loose cunningham) and crank the cunningham for the ideal 
draft position on the upwind legs.   After rounding the weather mark or tack to 
downwind let the cunningham loose to get your pre-adjusted downwind tension  / 
focus on other stuff.   Brilliant..

I'll remember that one.

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Ga

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List]

I was told much the same. Tension cunningham and flattenig reef upwind,
when roundind to bead down just release both and halyard anx outhaul
tension are set for downwind.

Was also told that the halyard tensions the luff (bolt rope) and the
cunningham actually stretches the material of the sail itself.

Gary Z
C&C 39
Harrison Township, MI
On Jan 26, 2015 11:17 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for posing the question.
>
> Like most of you guys, I have a Cunningham cringle (And use it).  However,
> I never quite got a clear Halyard vs Cunningham answer until I did a little
> more research this am.
>
> 1st reasonable rationale:  Use the halyard to control the top half / use
> the Cunningham for the bottom.. (That's the one I was thinking of
> initially) Stands to reason as especially for quick updates the friction in
> the slides can prevent the tension from being uniform and therefore you get
> a more consistent sail throughout by using both. Come to think of it, a
> well lubed track / modern graphite impregnated  slugs make this kind of
> moot..
>
> The clever one I just read supposedly came from an experienced sail maker
> / racer:   (Assuming a well lubed track)   Set the halyard tension
> correctly for the downwind leg (Loose cunningham) and crank the cunningham
> for the ideal draft position on the upwind legs.   After rounding the
> weather mark or tack to downwind let the cunningham loose to get your
> pre-adjusted downwind tension  / focus on other stuff.   Brilliant..
>
> I'll remember that one.
>
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Ga
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

And of course for those of us with vintage sails, cunningham gives you 
adjustment options when the headboard is already as high as it will go.   I 
don't have one, still have the sliding gooseneck.
Cheers
Paul 

Orange Crush
C&C27MkII
Sidney, BC


- Original Message -
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 09:16:52 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Stus-List  Cunningham


Thanks for posing the question.

Like most of you guys, I have a Cunningham cringle (And use it).  However,
I never quite got a clear Halyard vs Cunningham answer until I did a little
more research this am.

1st reasonable rationale:  Use the halyard to control the top half / use
the Cunningham for the bottom.. (That's the one I was thinking of
initially) Stands to reason as especially for quick updates the friction in
the slides can prevent the tension from being uniform and therefore you get
a more consistent sail throughout by using both. Come to think of it, a
well lubed track / modern graphite impregnated  slugs make this kind of
moot..

The clever one I just read supposedly came from an experienced sail maker /
racer:   (Assuming a well lubed track)   Set the halyard tension correctly
for the downwind leg (Loose cunningham) and crank the cunningham for the
ideal draft position on the upwind legs.   After rounding the weather mark
or tack to downwind let the cunningham loose to get your pre-adjusted
downwind tension  / focus on other stuff.   Brilliant..

I'll remember that one.

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Ga

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?


Yes.  I don't race, and basically am happy when the boat is moving 
forward at a decent rate of speed.  I don't use the cunningham, and seem 
to be able to use the halyard and vang to control sail shape well enough 
to keep me happy.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Antoine, it's called a "flattening reef" in English - exactly what you 
described.

I first got my main without a Cunningham crinkle but had one added a couple of 
years back - much easier to fine tune luff tension / draft and much quicker 
than the halyard on a winch.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


> On Jan 25, 2015, at 11:44 PM, Antoine Rose via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the 
> cunningham. Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that 
> the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of 
> your mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is needed on the halyard. As 
> wind increases, more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned 
> but the wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and, since 
> you're racing you don't want to give any water to that boat just beside 
> yours. As the wind increases, the sail draft moves back, increasing heeling 
> and reducing speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just that, bringing the 
> draft forward for two reasons: it increases the tensioning but also, because 
> the cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail, pull forward the main 
> foot.
> 
> Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet 
> on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how it's called 
> in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does not reduce 
> substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A flatter 
> main points higher and reduce heeling.
> 
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
> 
>> Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding 
>> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not in 
>> my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or 
>> lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have a 
>> jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate 
>> Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a 
>> winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but my question 
>> is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> David
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

Hi David,

To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the cunningham. 
Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that the halyard 
point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of your mast. Wind 
is light, not too much tension is needed on the halyard. As wind increases, 
more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned but the wind still 
get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and, since you're racing you don't 
want to give any water to that boat just beside yours. As the wind increases, 
the sail draft moves back, increasing heeling and reducing speed. Tensioning 
the cunningham does just that, bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it 
increases the tensioning but also, because the cunningham grommet is slightly 
aft of the sail, pull forward the main foot.

Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet 
on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how it's called 
in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does not reduce 
substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A flatter 
main points higher and reduce heeling.

Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)

Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :

> Hi All,
> 
> I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding 
> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not in 
> my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or 
> lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have a 
> jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate 
> Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a 
> winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but my question 
> is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> David
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 


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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I prefer a Cunningham for a couple of reasons:

 

It is easy to adjust when lead to the cockpit, so you tend to use it more than 
halyard tension. If crewed, the main trimmer can do it as part of his job. If 
short handed it is just easier than messing with halyards.

 

It is usually a multipart tackle, so the effort needed to get a proper tension 
on the sail is less.

 

The line is much shorter than your halyard, combined with less load on the line 
due to the multipart tackle, means less stretch to deal with.

 

And a Cunningham is not so much “useless” when reefed as “unnecessary”. After 
all, if you are reefed you are pulling a lot of tension on the sail to flatten 
it in higher wind – or there would be not much point in reefing.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Paine 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 6:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cunningham

 

Hi All,

 

I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding question. 
  Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not in my current 
sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or lace line) 
which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have a jack-line.  Some 
adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate Cunningham grommet 
with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a winch) to set the 
luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but my question is, which do you 
use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course.

 

Cheers,

 

David

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Yes, my mainsail has a cringle for the Cunningham. A sailmaker can easily add 
one to your sail for less than $75. They have to build up and re-enforce the 
area and add a SS cringle. 

I have a SS hook on the end of a purchase that is terminated to the mast 
collar. The 1/4" tail runs aft through a clutch and I can usually trim it 
without the winch. The Jack-line I've read about, is used when reefing to allow 
one or two slides to stay in the track, but allow the sail luff to fold down 
properly below the boom. I never rigged one, but came close. Instead I omit the 
lowest slide. 

When you order your sail, you'll want a cunningham cringle, one or two reef 
points, draft stripes, leach line easily adjustable from where you reach it. 
Ours is adjusted from the luff, so it can be eased when the boom end is swung 
out out and the leech and clew is out of reach. I crewed on 55 footer and the 
boom was very high and the leech line cleat was on the leech above the clew. We 
had a terrible leech flutter one day and we couldn't reach the line when we 
needed to, unless we used the boathook, and that proved so difficult we gave 
up. We later furled the sail into mast enough to reach the leech line cleat 
from the cabintop, adjust and reset the sail. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "David Paine via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 6:32:43 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Cunningham 

Hi All, 

I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding question. 
Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail? I do not in my current sail 
but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or lace line) which 
serves the purpose. My new sail definitely won't have a jack-line. Some adjust 
luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate Cunningham grommet with a 
many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a winch) to set the luff 
tension. My sailmaker has an opinion but my question is, which do you use? The 
Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course. 

Cheers, 

David 

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche' has a 4:1 cunningham which hooks into a grommet.  We also use the
cunningham for the reef.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Jan 25, 2015 4:32 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not
> in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
> (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have
> a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a
> separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham
> line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but
> my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed,
> of course.
>
> Cheers,
>
> David
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I have a line running through the grommet, giving theoretical 2:1, which is
cascaded to a 3:1 at the mast base. I use 1/4" line for the control since
there's so little load on it, it runs to a cleat on the cabin top at the
cockpit.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 25 January 2015 at 15:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My sailmakers opinion is that pulling the sail down is counter intuitive
> to getting more power aloft.  That being said I have a 4:1 block and tackel
> coumpounded to a 2:1 for an equivalent 8:1.  I can unhook the block and
> reattach it to the "dog bones at either of the reef points and have a 4:1
> if I didn't have time to hook the opposite ring or 8:1 if I did manage to
> hook it.  8:1 is over kill but it is pretty cool to be able to almost
> completely raise and adjust a main with a 47' luff without having to use a
> winch.
>
> The halyard and Cunningham are run to the cockpit jammers and winches.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jan 25, 2015 6:32 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
>> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not
>> in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
>> (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have
>> a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a
>> separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham
>> line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but
>> my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed,
>> of course.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> David
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My sailmakers opinion is that pulling the sail down is counter intuitive to
getting more power aloft.  That being said I have a 4:1 block and tackel
coumpounded to a 2:1 for an equivalent 8:1.  I can unhook the block and
reattach it to the "dog bones at either of the reef points and have a 4:1
if I didn't have time to hook the opposite ring or 8:1 if I did manage to
hook it.  8:1 is over kill but it is pretty cool to be able to almost
completely raise and adjust a main with a 47' luff without having to use a
winch.

The halyard and Cunningham are run to the cockpit jammers and winches.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 25, 2015 6:32 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not
> in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
> (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have
> a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a
> separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham
> line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but
> my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed,
> of course.
>
> Cheers,
>
> David
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have one on my 27-3

-Original Message-
From: "David Paine via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎01-‎25 6:32 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Cunningham

Hi All,


I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding question. 
  Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not in my current 
sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or lace line) 
which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have a jack-line.  Some 
adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate Cunningham grommet 
with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a winch) to set the 
luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but my question is, which do you 
use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course.


Cheers,


David___

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Chuck S]

All things stretch under load and have different acceptable tolerances. Lines, 
Wire, Sails. Stretch them within their limits and they return to normal. 
Stretch things beyond their limits and Lines and Wire snap, and sailcloth 
tears. 

Sailcloth stretches in higher wind, and/or more tension of the halyard, 
outhaul, mainsheet, cunningham. 
I believe the sailmaker cuts the sail to fit between the black bands at a 
certain wind speed, say 8 or 10 knots. In areas known for higher winds, he may 
cut the sail flatter and to reach full hoist in 15 knots? Below that, the 
halyard can be a little slack to prevent the vertical wrinkle behind the mast 
that kills flow and indicates over tension. Ease a little halyard and cloth 
smoothes out. Short horizontal wrinkles from head to tack are OK in light 
winds, called speed wrinkles. As wind increases, the halyard can be tensioned 
to keep the draft forward of 50%, until the head reaches the upper black band. 
If more luff tension is needed, the Cunningham is employed to remove any 
horizontal wrinkles, smooth the sailcloth and pull the draft forward. 

Tip: mark main and jib halyard, cunningham, outhaul; to prevent overtension, 
and prevent damage to your sails. One method, make a black line with a laundry 
marker, around the line where it intersects the winch drum or cam cleat. Make 
at least three marks per line; Low, Med, High settings. 

Tip: don't tension a halyard when loaded up. Instead, tension the halyard when 
it is lightly loaded or in the middle of a tacking maneuver when the wind is on 
both sides of the sail. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:02:36 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham 



Hmmm...thanks Chuck, I never considered the sail maker cutting the sail longer 
than the band. I'm pretty sure mine cut it to fit the bands and explained that 
there would be room for it to stretch (to the band). Additionally if it were 
cut long and then stretched it could stop or jam in the masthead. 

Josh 


-- 
When privacy matters. 
http://www.secure-my-email.com 
On Aug 18, 2013 11:41 AM, "Russ & Melody" < russ...@telus.net > wrote: 




Thanks Chuck for making this important point regarding the upper black band. 

A well measured racing main will reach the black band with only low moderate 
tension on the halyard (for maximum area). No kidding.. foaming at the mouth 
racers believe even a few centimetres can make the difference. When more luff 
tension is required it is taken on with the cunningham. The old Harken "Magic 
Box" , at 8:1 purchase, was made for this purpose. 

Cheers, Russ 
Sweet 35 mk-1 

At 07:18 AM 18/08/2013, you wrote: 


Nicely written Josh. 
I would add the main halyard setup properly, can only be tensioned to raise the 
sail to the black band. 
As wind increases, the draft of the mainsail will move aft and the Cunningham 
is used to add a little more tension along the luff and bring the draft forward 
into the proper position, 45 to 50%. The Cunningham needs to be eased if the 
wind dies or turning downwind reduces the pressure on the sail. 

On bendy rigs like our three spreader rig, adding backstay tension shortens the 
P dimension, reduces the tension on the main halyard, so we add Cunningham to 
compensate. We ease the Cunningham before easing backstay as they are related. 
Easing backstay increases the P dimension and doing so without easing 
Cunningham or halyard can rip the mainsail. Lesson learned the hard way. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 



From: "Josh Muckley" < muckl...@gmail.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:23:16 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C - 33 Missing Cunningham 

What do you mean missing? Do you mean you have a jammer that is labelled 
Cunningham that doesn't have a line running through it? 

The cunningham opposes the main halyard by pulling down on the tack of the 
mainsail. So, you can tension the main by pulling up on the head or down on the 
tack. Usually it is easier and more controlled to use the cunningham but you 
risk having odd sail shapes if pulled too far. Additionally it is usually 
desired to hoist the main as high as possible, not down. So, a tight halyard 
tends to be preferred and the Cunningham is used when tightening the halyard is 
too difficult or unsafe, such as when the wind pipes up and on a close reach. 

On your mainsail you should find a metal Cunningham eye about 5-6 inches above 
the tack ring. Different makers provide different attachments but what I have 
found works well for me is to create a 2:1 advantage by running a line through 
the eye and attaching it to the reefing hook/horn just outboard of the tack 
ring. (Alternatively you could also tie it to the boom.) By pulling down on the 
free end of the line yo

Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Josh Muckley]

Hmmm...thanks Chuck, I never considered the sail maker cutting the sail
longer than the band.  I'm pretty sure mine cut it to fit the bands and
explained that there would be room for it to stretch (to the band).
Additionally if it were cut long and then stretched it could stop or jam in
the masthead.

Josh

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On Aug 18, 2013 11:41 AM, "Russ & Melody"  wrote:

>
> Thanks Chuck for making this important point regarding the upper black
> band.
>
> A well measured racing main will reach the black band with only low
> moderate tension on the halyard (for maximum area). No kidding.. foaming at
> the mouth racers believe even a few centimetres can make the difference.
> When more luff tension is required it is taken on with the cunningham. The
> old Harken "Magic Box" , at 8:1 purchase,  was made for this purpose.
>
> ****Cheers, Russ
> *****Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 07:18 AM 18/08/2013, you wrote:
>
> Nicely written Josh.
> I would add the main halyard setup properly, can only be tensioned to
> raise the sail to the black band.
> As wind increases, the draft of the mainsail will move aft and the
> Cunningham is used to add a little more tension along the luff and bring
> the draft forward into the proper position, 45 to 50%.   The Cunningham
> needs to be eased if the wind dies or turning downwind reduces the pressure
> on the sail.
>
> On bendy rigs like our three spreader rig, adding backstay tension
> shortens the P dimension, reduces the tension on the main halyard, so we
> add Cunningham to compensate.  We ease the Cunningham before easing
> backstay as they are related.  Easing backstay increases the P dimension
> and doing so without easing Cunningham or halyard can rip the mainsail.
> Lesson learned the hard way.
>
> Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>
>
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:23:16 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C - 33 Missing Cunningham
>
> What do you mean missing?  Do you mean you have a jammer that is labelled
> Cunningham that doesn't have a line running through it?
>
> The cunningham opposes the main halyard by pulling down on the tack of the
> mainsail.  So, you can tension the main by pulling up on the head or down
> on the tack.  Usually it is easier and more controlled to use the
> cunningham but you risk having odd sail shapes if pulled too far.
> Additionally it is usually desired to hoist the main as high as possible,
> not down.  So, a tight halyard tends to be preferred and the Cunningham is
> used when tightening the halyard is too difficult or unsafe, such as when
> the wind pipes up and on a close reach.
>
> On your mainsail you should find a metal Cunningham eye about 5-6 inches
> above the tack ring.  Different makers provide different attachments but
> what I have found works well for me is to create a 2:1 advantage by running
> a line through the eye and attaching it to the reefing hook/horn just
> outboard of the tack ring.  (Alternatively you could also tie it to the
> boom.)  By pulling down on the free end of the line you will be pulling
> down on the Cunningham ring with 2x the power.
>
> The PO had this free end led to the mast base and back to the cabin top
> jammer.  I regularly had to use a winch to tighten the Cunningham.  When I
> replaced the line I added a 4:1 block and tackle.  The 2:1 bitter end stops
> just below the boom and is finished with an eye.  The 4:1 hooks on the eye
> and attaches to the mast base.  The free end of the block and tackle is
> then led back the the jammer.  The 4:1 pulls down on the 2:1 for a total of
> 8:1.
>
> I also used a hook between the 2:1 and 4:1 so that it is easy to
> disconnect the 4:1 and reattach it to the reefing eye when reefing.  Our
> mainsail has "floppy rings" or "dog bones" that pass through the reefing
> eye in the sail.  They are made of nylon webbing running through the
> reefing eye and finished off on both ends by stainless rings larger than
> the eye.  Traditionally when reefing you would let the sail down and hook
> one of the floppy rings to the reefing horn.  The ring on the other end of
> the "dog bone" prevents the nylon webbing from pulling out of the reefing
> eye and now the main halyard can be pulled tight.  While sailing, if you
> find that there is not enough tension on the halyard you can unhook the
> Cunningham 4:1 from the 2:1 and re-hook it to the "lazy" ring in the dog
> bone.  You once again have an 8:1 Cunningham, but now on a reefed sail.
>
> Arguably, a Cunningham could be considered a fix for a poorly tightened
> halyard...at least on our "big boats".  On some smaller boats the
> cunningham is the only thing holding the tack ring.  But those cunninghams
> are also held forward ensuring proper foot tension.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
>  htt

Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Russ & Melody]

Thanks Chuck for making this important point regarding the upper black band.

A well measured racing main will reach the black band with only low 
moderate tension on the halyard (for maximum area). No kidding.. 
foaming at the mouth racers believe even a few centimetres can make 
the difference. When more luff tension is required it is taken on 
with the cunningham. The old Harken "Magic Box" , at 8:1 
purchase,  was made for this purpose.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:18 AM 18/08/2013, you wrote:

Nicely written Josh.
I would add the main halyard setup properly, can only be tensioned 
to raise the sail to the black band.
As wind increases, the draft of the mainsail will move aft and the 
Cunningham is used to add a little more tension along the luff and 
bring the draft forward into the proper position, 45 to 50%.   The 
Cunningham needs to be eased if the wind dies or turning downwind 
reduces the pressure on the sail.


On bendy rigs like our three spreader rig, adding backstay tension 
shortens the P dimension, reduces the tension on the main halyard, 
so we add Cunningham to compensate.  We ease the Cunningham before 
easing backstay as they are related.  Easing backstay increases the 
P dimension and doing so without easing Cunningham or halyard can 
rip the mainsail.  Lesson learned the hard way.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



--
From: "Josh Muckley" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:23:16 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C - 33 Missing Cunningham

What do you mean missing?  Do you mean you have a jammer that is 
labelled Cunningham that doesn't have a line running through it?


The cunningham opposes the main halyard by pulling down on the tack 
of the mainsail.  So, you can tension the main by pulling up on the 
head or down on the tack.  Usually it is easier and more controlled 
to use the cunningham but you risk having odd sail shapes if pulled 
too far.  Additionally it is usually desired to hoist the main as 
high as possible, not down.  So, a tight halyard tends to be 
preferred and the Cunningham is used when tightening the halyard is 
too difficult or unsafe, such as when the wind pipes up and on a close reach.


On your mainsail you should find a metal Cunningham eye about 5-6 
inches above the tack ring.  Different makers provide different 
attachments but what I have found works well for me is to create a 
2:1 advantage by running a line through the eye and attaching it to 
the reefing hook/horn just outboard of the tack 
ring.  (Alternatively you could also tie it to the boom.)  By 
pulling down on the free end of the line you will be pulling down on 
the Cunningham ring with 2x the power.


The PO had this free end led to the mast base and back to the cabin 
top jammer.  I regularly had to use a winch to tighten the 
Cunningham.  When I replaced the line I added a 4:1 block and 
tackle.  The 2:1 bitter end stops just below the boom and is 
finished with an eye.  The 4:1 hooks on the eye and attaches to the 
mast base.  The free end of the block and tackle is then led back 
the the jammer.  The 4:1 pulls down on the 2:1 for a total of 8:1.


I also used a hook between the 2:1 and 4:1 so that it is easy to 
disconnect the 4:1 and reattach it to the reefing eye when 
reefing.  Our mainsail has "floppy rings" or "dog bones" that pass 
through the reefing eye in the sail.  They are made of nylon webbing 
running through the reefing eye and finished off on both ends by 
stainless rings larger than the eye.  Traditionally when reefing you 
would let the sail down and hook one of the floppy rings to the 
reefing horn.  The ring on the other end of the "dog bone" prevents 
the nylon webbing from pulling out of the reefing eye and now the 
main halyard can be pulled tight.  While sailing, if you find that 
there is not enough tension on the halyard you can unhook the 
Cunningham 4:1 from the 2:1 and re-hook it to the "lazy" ring in the 
dog bone.  You once again have an 8:1 Cunningham, but now on a reefed sail.


Arguably, a Cunningham could be considered a fix for a poorly 
tightened halyard...at least on our "big boats".  On some smaller 
boats the cunningham is the only thing holding the tack ring.  But 
those cunninghams are also held forward ensuring proper foot tension.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 17, 2013 12:22 PM, "Raymond Macklin" 
<ray.mack...@gmail.com> wrote:
I purchased a 1985 C&C - 33 and I am missing the cunningham.  Does 
anyone have a diagram of where it runs on the boat or could explain it to me.


Thanks,

Ray Macklin
Libertyville, IL
LakeHouse

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Chuck S]

Nicely written Josh. 
I would add the main halyard setup properly, can only be tensioned to raise the 
sail to the black band. 
As wind increases, the draft of the mainsail will move aft and the Cunningham 
is used to add a little more tension along the luff and bring the draft forward 
into the proper position, 45 to 50%. The Cunningham needs to be eased if the 
wind dies or turning downwind reduces the pressure on the sail. 

On bendy rigs like our three spreader rig, adding backstay tension shortens the 
P dimension, reduces the tension on the main halyard, so we add Cunningham to 
compensate. We ease the Cunningham before easing backstay as they are related. 
Easing backstay increases the P dimension and doing so without easing 
Cunningham or halyard can rip the mainsail. Lesson learned the hard way. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 


- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:23:16 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C - 33 Missing Cunningham 



What do you mean missing? Do you mean you have a jammer that is labelled 
Cunningham that doesn't have a line running through it? 

The cunningham opposes the main halyard by pulling down on the tack of the 
mainsail. So, you can tension the main by pulling up on the head or down on the 
tack. Usually it is easier and more controlled to use the cunningham but you 
risk having odd sail shapes if pulled too far. Additionally it is usually 
desired to hoist the main as high as possible, not down. So, a tight halyard 
tends to be preferred and the Cunningham is used when tightening the halyard is 
too difficult or unsafe, such as when the wind pipes up and on a close reach. 

On your mainsail you should find a metal Cunningham eye about 5-6 inches above 
the tack ring. Different makers provide different attachments but what I have 
found works well for me is to create a 2:1 advantage by running a line through 
the eye and attaching it to the reefing hook/horn just outboard of the tack 
ring. (Alternatively you could also tie it to the boom.) By pulling down on the 
free end of the line you will be pulling down on the Cunningham ring with 2x 
the power. 

The PO had this free end led to the mast base and back to the cabin top jammer. 
I regularly had to use a winch to tighten the Cunningham. When I replaced the 
line I added a 4:1 block and tackle. The 2:1 bitter end stops just below the 
boom and is finished with an eye. The 4:1 hooks on the eye and attaches to the 
mast base. The free end of the block and tackle is then led back the the 
jammer. The 4:1 pulls down on the 2:1 for a total of 8:1. 

I also used a hook between the 2:1 and 4:1 so that it is easy to disconnect the 
4:1 and reattach it to the reefing eye when reefing. Our mainsail has "floppy 
rings" or "dog bones" that pass through the reefing eye in the sail. They are 
made of nylon webbing running through the reefing eye and finished off on both 
ends by stainless rings larger than the eye. Traditionally when reefing you 
would let the sail down and hook one of the floppy rings to the reefing horn. 
The ring on the other end of the "dog bone" prevents the nylon webbing from 
pulling out of the reefing eye and now the main halyard can be pulled tight. 
While sailing, if you find that there is not enough tension on the halyard you 
can unhook the Cunningham 4:1 from the 2:1 and re-hook it to the "lazy" ring in 
the dog bone. You once again have an 8:1 Cunningham, but now on a reefed sail. 

Arguably, a Cunningham could be considered a fix for a poorly tightened 
halyard...at least on our "big boats". On some smaller boats the cunningham is 
the only thing holding the tack ring. But those cunninghams are also held 
forward ensuring proper foot tension. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 

-- 
When privacy matters. 
http://www.secure-my-email.com 
On Aug 17, 2013 12:22 PM, "Raymond Macklin" < ray.mack...@gmail.com > wrote: 







I purchased a 1985 C&C - 33 and I am missing the cunningham. Does anyone have a 
diagram of where it runs on the boat or could explain it to me. 

Thanks, 

Ray Macklin 
Libertyville, IL 
LakeHouse 

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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 




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