Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten

2019-01-31 Thread Dan via CnC-List
Thanks Dennis,

I thought it through and I agree that grinding away the existing tabs on
the aft side is probably my best option because If I were to try to
preserve the tabbing and only cut out some of the aft skin to replace the
core I won't be able to fit the new core I build into this tight space as
one solid piece. Plus it would be very difficult to clean out and grind
clean where the old core has to come out.

The Chain Plate itself is on the bow side, therefore the higher forces are
there as well. I want the core solid and well bonded to help re-inforce it.
I'll probably keep the skin that I cut away, clean it up, and glass it back
in afterwards as, like you say, using the bolts to hold it all together
will distribute the pressure while it cures. Thanks for the fillets tip - I
will definitely do that.

I'm going to talk to Paul (our local glass expert) before I do anything
just to get his two cents but I'm fairly confident this will work. I helped
out with another boat where chainplates were being glassed directly into
the hull with fresh glass and it's amazingly strong. If done properly, the
tabs shouldn't fail.

John, my YouTube channel is:
http://www.youtube.com/sailingbalachandra

The boat is called Breakaweigh. I called the channel by a different name
for security reasons.

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS


On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 9:36 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan,
>
> You may know all this but here's my 2 cents.
>
> If you cut the aft skin close to the hull, be sure to create some nice
> radius fillets for the tabbing.  Stronger and won't create a stress load
> like a perpendicular tab joint.
>
> When I tab bulkheads, I grind/sand to fresh glass (I think you got that)
> then coat it with neat epoxy to ensure a good bond.  Then I mix some
> thickened epoxy, apply it in the joint and create the radiused fillet with
> the backside of a plastic spoon.  Let it cure and lay the tab tape on the
> fillet.
>
> Whatever you chose to use for the core, wood or G10, bond it to the
> forward skin.  Prep then coat the forward skin with neat epoxy.  Use a
> notched trowel to apply thickened epoxy to BOTH the forward skin and the
> core.  If you use slow hardener you can replace the aft skin and use the
> chain plate bolts to hold it while curing.
>
> I've done several similar jobs, if you have any questions, feel free to
> ask.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:21 AM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the feedback guys.
>> Ok so now that I know that new tabbing onto bare glass with epoxy is ok
>> as long as I grind it first - it will be strong enough. I was planning to
>> go with plywood, isolating the bolts and access holes with solid glass so
>> it doesn’t get wet again. (I’ll look into FRP. Carbon Fiber would be
>> amazing.)Also I was planning to add a 1/2 in. Drain hole at the bottom.
>> Once the headstay is removed I’m going to completely disassemble the
>> chainplate and inspect it (installed in 2002)- I have to in order to do the
>> work. The rusty looking area is just staining- the SS will shine with some
>> scrubbing.
>>
>> Thanks guys!
>> I’ll probably record the whole job and post it to my YouTube channel.
>>
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:21 AM, robert  wrote:
>>
>> Dan:
>>
>> From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity
>> of that bulkhead.  I can see five (5) bolts in the chain platetop 2
>> look, bottom 2 not good, middle one not sure.
>>
>> I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glassquestion is, are you
>> going to remove the chain plate?
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32- #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I need the collective wisdom on this one.
>>
>> Pictures here:
>>  IMG_6750.JPG
>> 
>>
>>  IMG_6747.JPG
>> 
>>
>> On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate
>> for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified
>> over the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when
>> drain holes were drilled and such and now the core material inside the
>> bulkhead is nearly disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back
>> fiberglass layer, each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.
>>
>> This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into
>> the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in
>> something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.
>>
>> Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then
>> re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the
>> new tabs be 

Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten

2019-01-30 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Dan,

You may know all this but here's my 2 cents.

If you cut the aft skin close to the hull, be sure to create some nice
radius fillets for the tabbing.  Stronger and won't create a stress load
like a perpendicular tab joint.

When I tab bulkheads, I grind/sand to fresh glass (I think you got that)
then coat it with neat epoxy to ensure a good bond.  Then I mix some
thickened epoxy, apply it in the joint and create the radiused fillet with
the backside of a plastic spoon.  Let it cure and lay the tab tape on the
fillet.

Whatever you chose to use for the core, wood or G10, bond it to the forward
skin.  Prep then coat the forward skin with neat epoxy.  Use a notched
trowel to apply thickened epoxy to BOTH the forward skin and the core.  If
you use slow hardener you can replace the aft skin and use the chain plate
bolts to hold it while curing.

I've done several similar jobs, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:21 AM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback guys.
> Ok so now that I know that new tabbing onto bare glass with epoxy is ok as
> long as I grind it first - it will be strong enough. I was planning to go
> with plywood, isolating the bolts and access holes with solid glass so it
> doesn’t get wet again. (I’ll look into FRP. Carbon Fiber would be
> amazing.)Also I was planning to add a 1/2 in. Drain hole at the bottom.
> Once the headstay is removed I’m going to completely disassemble the
> chainplate and inspect it (installed in 2002)- I have to in order to do the
> work. The rusty looking area is just staining- the SS will shine with some
> scrubbing.
>
> Thanks guys!
> I’ll probably record the whole job and post it to my YouTube channel.
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:21 AM, robert  wrote:
>
> Dan:
>
> From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity of
> that bulkhead.  I can see five (5) bolts in the chain platetop 2 look,
> bottom 2 not good, middle one not sure.
>
> I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glassquestion is, are you
> going to remove the chain plate?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32- #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I need the collective wisdom on this one.
>
> Pictures here:
>  IMG_6750.JPG
> 
>
>  IMG_6747.JPG
> 
>
> On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate
> for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified
> over the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when
> drain holes were drilled and such and now the core material inside the
> bulkhead is nearly disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back
> fiberglass layer, each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.
>
> This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into
> the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in
> something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.
>
> Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then
> re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the
> new tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good
> quality glass and epoxy)
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten

2019-01-30 Thread John Conklin via CnC-List
Can you share the YouTube channel please

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks for the feedback guys.
Ok so now that I know that new tabbing onto bare glass with epoxy is ok as long 
as I grind it first - it will be strong enough. I was planning to go with 
plywood, isolating the bolts and access holes with solid glass so it doesn’t 
get wet again. (I’ll look into FRP. Carbon Fiber would be amazing.)Also I was 
planning to add a 1/2 in. Drain hole at the bottom. Once the headstay is 
removed I’m going to completely disassemble the chainplate and inspect it 
(installed in 2002)- I have to in order to do the work. The rusty looking area 
is just staining- the SS will shine with some scrubbing.

Thanks guys!
I’ll probably record the whole job and post it to my YouTube channel.

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS


Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:21 AM, robert 
mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> wrote:

Dan:

From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity of that 
bulkhead.  I can see five (5) bolts in the chain platetop 2 look, bottom 2 
not good, middle one not sure.

I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glassquestion is, are you going 
to remove the chain plate?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:
[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6750.JPG

[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6747.JPG

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

Thanks guys,

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
As someone else said, a halyard to the toe rail somewhere near the pointy 
end is recommended.


-Original Message- 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

Hi Dan,

Only ease the backstay a little bit. The normal shroud tension is okay.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:40 AM 1/30/2019, you wrote:
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second glance 
that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The chainplate is on 
the other side and I won't know how it looks until I've removed it. I'll be 
sure to check it over thoroughly and replace if necessary. I'm not too 
woried if the backing plate has pits or cracks - it won't be under the same 
stresses as the chainplate itself.


I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at dock like 
this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines then remove the 
attachments? Should I be letting off all of the stays to do this?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
I second Bill’s analysis.  This is what I was getting at with my earlier note.

I would use one of those oscillating saws to take out a portion of the inner 
skin to get access to the rotten core, staying well away from the hull tabbing. 
 I would also keep the inner skin piece that I remove (see below).  Then clean 
out the rotted material and replace it with whatever you want – I would 
probably go with marine ply if that’s what was in there originally --  and fill 
any gaps with something like a coloidal silica epoxy mix (I use West System).  
Once the bad area is replaced, glass everything.  If you kept the inner skin 
that you cut away to get access, you can glass the cleaned up piece back in 
place – use the chain plate holes to hold everything in place while it cures.  
In my view this will be as strong as the original without messing with the 
tabbing bond.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 9:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

At the risk of going against the grain here, I think I would relax a little 
bit. Upon looking at that as close as I can with those pictures, and of course 
you can only see one side – (You need to light up the backside, and take 
several hi-res pictures of the other side) I don’t think it looks all that bad.

Most importantly, there are no cracks or checks in that fiberglass bulkhead,  
and if you cut it out, you will be replacing it with fiberglass and epoxy. A 
good fix, for sure, but right now you probably have a homogenous bond with the 
hull, and a replacement will be a mechanical bond. The fact that it is 35-40 
years old and still completely check –free, is golden.

The plywood in the middle is not really structural, just a filler. I would try 
to figure a way to remove whatever was rotten, and fill that area in so it is 
completely solid, (probably with thickened epoxy) and thoroughly seal it 
afterwards.

You need to get that chainplate off, passivate the hell out of it, and check it 
for cracks. Then put some new 316 Bolts in there.

 

Of course this advise it worth exactly what you paid for it - but that is what 
I would do if it was my boat.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

 

I need the collective wisdom on this one.

 

Pictures here:

 IMG_6750.JPG

 

 IMG_6747.JPG

 

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

 

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

 

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

 

Thanks guys,

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS




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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
At the risk of going against the grain here, I think I would relax a little 
bit. Upon looking at that as close as I can with those pictures, and of course 
you can only see one side – (You need to light up the backside, and take 
several hi-res pictures of the other side) I don’t think it looks all that bad.

Most importantly, there are no cracks or checks in that fiberglass bulkhead,  
and if you cut it out, you will be replacing it with fiberglass and epoxy. A 
good fix, for sure, but right now you probably have a homogenous bond with the 
hull, and a replacement will be a mechanical bond. The fact that it is 35-40 
years old and still completely check –free, is golden.

The plywood in the middle is not really structural, just a filler. I would try 
to figure a way to remove whatever was rotten, and fill that area in so it is 
completely solid, (probably with thickened epoxy) and thoroughly seal it 
afterwards.

You need to get that chainplate off, passivate the hell out of it, and check it 
for cracks. Then put some new 316 Bolts in there.

 

Of course this advise it worth exactly what you paid for it - but that is what 
I would do if it was my boat.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

 

I need the collective wisdom on this one.

 

Pictures here:

 

  IMG_6750.JPG

 

 

  IMG_6747.JPG

 

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

 

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

 

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

 

Thanks guys,

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread robert via CnC-List

Dan

Simply release any backstay tension and secure the mast forward with 
halyards.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2019-01-30 9:40 a.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second 
glance that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The 
chainplate is on the other side and I won't know how it looks until 
I've removed it. I'll be sure to check it over thoroughly and replace 
if necessary. I'm not too woried if the backing plate has pits or 
cracks - it won't be under the same stresses as the chainplate itself.


I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at dock 
like this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines then 
remove the attachments? Should I be letting off all of the stays to do 
this?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Dan,

Only ease the backstay a little bit. The normal shroud tension is okay.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:40 AM 1/30/2019, you wrote:
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second 
glance that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The 
chainplate is on the other side and I won't know how it looks until 
I've removed it. I'll be sure to check it over thoroughly and 
replace if necessary. I'm not too woried if the backing plate has 
pits or cracks - it won't be under the same stresses as the chainplate itself.


I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at 
dock like this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines 
then remove the attachments? Should I be letting off all of the 
stays to do this?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Dan via CnC-List
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second glance
that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The chainplate is on
the other side and I won't know how it looks until I've removed it. I'll be
sure to check it over thoroughly and replace if necessary. I'm not too
woried if the backing plate has pits or cracks - it won't be under the same
stresses as the chainplate itself.

I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at dock like
this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines then remove the
attachments? Should I be letting off all of the stays to do this?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread nausetbeach--- via CnC-List
+1 on Josh’s comment:  That chain plate and those bolts looks pretty suspicious 
on their own.  

 

I pulled my ~ 30 year old port shroud chain plates in August, 2015 and on the 
surface looked a bit better [less apparent rust] than yours, but the sides of 
the plates that were against the bulkhead were very rusted and pitted 
[stainless and lack of oxygen never a good thing] and several of the bolts 
holes had cracks in the steel radiating out to the edge of the stainless plate. 
 These cracks were not visible to the eye on the exposed surface.  All of the 
bolts were quite rusted, two sheared off as I removed them.  

 

Was not expecting to need to replace them but was not worth risking the rig 
over $500 to have new chain plates fabricated and a handful of new SS bolts.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 9:33 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

 

I'd use 1/2" G10 FRP.  Tabbing from the back/bow side might be a trick.  I'd 
cut the exposed tab, remove rot, grind to clean fiberglass.  Generously goop 
thickened epoxy onto the remaining tabs and clamp your pre-fabbed G10 into 
place.  Then filet and tab on the exposed side.

 

Be sure to inspect thoroughly for cracking in the SS fasteners and chain 
plates... Or simply replace.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten

2019-01-30 Thread Daniel Cormier via CnC-List
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Ok so now that I know that new tabbing onto bare glass with epoxy is ok as long 
as I grind it first - it will be strong enough. I was planning to go with 
plywood, isolating the bolts and access holes with solid glass so it doesn’t 
get wet again. (I’ll look into FRP. Carbon Fiber would be amazing.)Also I was 
planning to add a 1/2 in. Drain hole at the bottom. Once the headstay is 
removed I’m going to completely disassemble the chainplate and inspect it 
(installed in 2002)- I have to in order to do the work. The rusty looking area 
is just staining- the SS will shine with some scrubbing. 

Thanks guys!
I’ll probably record the whole job and post it to my YouTube channel.

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:21 AM, robert  wrote:
> 
> Dan:
> 
> From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity of 
> that bulkhead.  I can see five (5) bolts in the chain platetop 2 look, 
> bottom 2 not good, middle one not sure.
> 
> I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glassquestion is, are you going 
> to remove the chain plate?  
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32- #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>> I need the collective wisdom on this one.
>> 
>> Pictures here:
>>  IMG_6750.JPG
>> 
>>  IMG_6747.JPG
>> 
>> On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for 
>> the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over 
>> the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain 
>> holes were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is 
>> nearly disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, 
>> each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.
>> 
>> This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
>> exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in 
>> something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.
>> 
>> Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then 
>> re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new 
>> tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good 
>> quality glass and epoxy)
>> 
>> Thanks guys,
>> 
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Hi Dan

You may wish to contact Paul Gallant of Gallant Marine Services.  He lives in 
Spinnaker Arms area very near you.  Last off season he replaced a similar 
bulkhead in a J120 that separates the anchor locker from the vee berth.  He may 
be willing to take a look and provide advice.  This is Paul’s specialty.  
Contact me off list and I can give you Paul’s number

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com



On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:
[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6750.JPG

[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6747.JPG

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

Thanks guys,

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS



___



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-29 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I'd use 1/2" G10 FRP.  Tabbing from the back/bow side might be a trick.
I'd cut the exposed tab, remove rot, grind to clean fiberglass.  Generously
goop thickened epoxy onto the remaining tabs and clamp your pre-fabbed G10
into place.  Then filet and tab on the exposed side.

Be sure to inspect thoroughly for cracking in the SS fasteners and chain
plates... Or simply replace.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Jan 29, 2019, 11:49 AM Dan via CnC-List  I need the collective wisdom on this one.
>
> Pictures here:
>  IMG_6750.JPG
> 
>
>  IMG_6747.JPG
> 
>
> On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate
> for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified
> over the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when
> drain holes were drilled and such and now the core material inside the
> bulkhead is nearly disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back
> fiberglass layer, each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.
>
> This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into
> the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in
> something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.
>
> Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then
> re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the
> new tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good
> quality glass and epoxy)
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-29 Thread G Collins via CnC-List
Hi Dan

Were it mine I'd cut out everything but the forward tabbing.  Cut a new piece 
of ply (or foam core if you are drastically against ply) to shape.  glass the 
forward side.  Remove the new core and replace with solid glass/epoxy in the 
area where the bolts will go thru for the plate.  glass the aft surface.  Glue 
this to the tabbing left behind, and then generously tab on the exposed side.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:
[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6750.JPG

[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6747.JPG

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

Thanks guys,

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-29 Thread Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
I would think you could replace the rotten core without interfering with the 
existing tabbing if that is a concern.  That said, re-tabbing should not be a 
big deal, provided you grind the surface sufficiently to get to clean glass.  
The main bulkheads on the 34 are subject to tabbing failure, which on my 
previous boat resulted in the salon bulkhead walls shifting a bit (and messing 
with door alignment).  We had no difficulty cleaning things up to re-tab.  
Never had a problem after that.

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:
 IMG_6750.JPG

 IMG_6747.JPG

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

Thanks guys,

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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