Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Gary: My issue was simply the two wing nuts on the top of the raw water strainer weren't tightened enough to prevent the air leak I didn't need a new water straining system with a better gasket sealing, I just needed a 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each wing nut, problem solved. Took it apart in the Fall to clean it and didn't torque it down enough. Won't happen again! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2013/05/24 12:21 PM, Gary Nylander wrote: A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a mile back in again. It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket sealing was in order. All is well. Gary - Original Message - *From:* Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca *To:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@yahoo.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM *Subject:* Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Don: One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. Check for flow and pressure there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA *From:* Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit -- needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked -- slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Just a suggestion for all with similar strainers, try to tighten the wing nuts equally so the same amount of threads is showing on each screw. An unevenly tightened cap can leak air. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On May 26, 2013, at 6:57 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: Gary: My issue was simply the two wing nuts on the top of the raw water strainer weren't tightened enough to prevent the air leak I didn't need a new water straining system with a better gasket sealing, I just needed a 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each wing nut, problem solved. Took it apart in the Fall to clean it and didn't torque it down enough. Won't happen again! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2013/05/24 12:21 PM, Gary Nylander wrote: A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a mile back in again. It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket sealing was in order. All is well. Gary - Original Message - From: Robert Abbott To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Don: One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. Check for flow and pressure there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat – I don’t think although I will replace
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens - but doesn't resolve
Hi All Thanks for all of the comments regarding my problem of sometimes the boat pumps water and sometimes not. I'm amazed at the help provided.I think I have taken all into consideration in some form of test to try and debug this. I have disconnected the hoses carrying the water from various point where they enter the engine and tested to see if water is pumping and the water is getting through. Downstream of the pump I have put my finger on the hose and sprayed water around the cabin, ok, into a bucket, indicating good pressure from the pump. In all places water is coming, but since the problem is intermittent, what does that tell me? I feel confident that at least the problem is downstream of the pump. I've ordered a new thermostat, although the one that is in there seems to work fine when tested in water on the stove. Although it didn't seem to behave consistently after putting it back in. But I would think if it wasn't working water would still pump through the bypass but the engine would overheat. The engine starts immediately so I'm thinking compression should still be good, but mechanics are on order to check things like that. For sure it is blowing more black smoke on start up that it did a year ago, so something is amiss but could just be the injectors. I'll also get them to test the heat with a infrared thermometer. After doing all this, the last few times I've started the engine all has worked as it is supposed to. The problem is I've still not found a definitive cause. So has something fixed it, or not. And if not at what most inconvenient time will it manifest itself again, as on the west coast of Vancouver Island this summer? I thinking perhaps something is floating in the engine that sometimes plugs something like the thermostat, and sometimes not, depending on how it is floating around. The only challenge with that, is once the engine starts and is pumping water it continues to pump water, and I've run it for extended periods of time, travelling distances. So why wouldn't it plug it intermittently when running as opposed just when it is starting? So I'm thinking about the recommendation on using Barnacle Buster. It seems the easiest way is to take out the zincs in the engine as they recommend (and if anyone else has a 3GMD in a CC 34 they know you can't really call this easy) and then put the intake hose into a big bucket containing Barnacle Buster and the outflow hose going into the mixing elbow back in the bucket and run the engine until the stuff has come through. Then let it sit for day. The alternative building a flushing system seems a fair bit more complicated but apparently is the more recommended method. Has anyone done this? Does it damage the impeller? What about all the stuff it dislodges? It seems getting that out of the system could cause more plugging up? I suspect this engine has never been flushed and it is a long ways from new. So will everything come out in small pieces or will there be big hose plugging flakes? Any help? Thanks Don From: dre...@gmail.com [mailto:dre...@gmail.com] Sent: May-24-13 7:41 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Hi, My raw water cooled 2QM15 had a problem of intermitting over heating. I check and replaced many things: hoses, belts, impeller, ... I even pickled the engine with vinegar and turned over water pump impeller backing plate thinking the wear was limiting flow. I even thought I licked the problem. After a big trip (2 two-days gulf crossings), I left the boat for a few weeks and when I returned, the engine was seized. It turned out the head gasket was slightly blown which let raw water in the cylinder and over two weeks corroded/seized a piston. I discovered the real reason for the heating problem(and likely the reason for blowing a head gasket) when I fixed the engine: severe salt scale build up! The picture below is my block with the cylinder selves removed showing what was likely 33 yrs of scale build up. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/7782378010/in/set-72157631067396554 I happily rebuilt the engine(another story) but I strongly suggest that anyone with a raw water system regularly flush the engine with a good agent like barnacle buster (and don't cheap your self by using vinegar). The $30-$50 for barnacle buster is a lot less than the $800 I spent rebuilding my yanmar. - Paul E. 1979 CC 29 Mk1 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL Begin forwarded message: Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:00:17 -0700 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Message-ID: 023e01ce581a$0e7118d0$2b534a70$@ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
As others have mentioned, I'd look for an air leak in every seal from the pump upstream to the hull fitting -including the entire pump. If the pump gets air bound and the impeller vanes are less than absolutely factory perfect, it will have a hard time sucking water, and will just move the air in the pump around. My water pump was leaking, and I thought it was the cover seal like you do...it wasn't, it was the shaft seals between the pulley and the impeller. They were about $10 each or so and not terribly hard to replace. It's a good idea to replace the bearings if you're going in there to fix the seals. If you cannot get new seals in a timely manner, just put as much thick-tacky grease in the shaft seal as you can...just to slow down the air-water intrusion/leak. The other suggestion about the cam in the pump is also a good one. It's held in with a single brass screw. Mine corroded away to nothing. So I replaced it with a stainless cap screw. By the way...it's metric and it cannot be too long or it will stick into the pump and tear the vanes. Choose wisely as the saying goes. And another thought, before you go all acid bath on the engine...maybe start with a mild acid like vinegar. It's cheap in large volume, and mild enough to the steel parts while working magic on salts. Just a thought and if it doesn't work, you are only out about $15. I'd get the engine running and hot on seawater, shut it down, then take the seawater intake and put it in the vinegar bottle. For a SW cooled engine, I'd guess that 4 gallons would do. Then run the engine for a very short time to suck all 4 gallons into the engine. Now the heat from the block will help the vinegar do it's thing. Leave it for a day maybe. The run it normally. Bewareall those bits that were adhering are going to try to exit the engine...if there are large scales they could block the passages. (like a blood clot or heart attack). -Keith M CC 35-3 (3GM30F) -Original Message- From: Don Jonsson [mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca] Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 21:00 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat - I don't think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I'm stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
My raw water cooled Yanmar 2qm15 would start with a normal flow of water. On restarting after a sail, no water flow. This repeated regularly until the thermostat was changed. Ed CC 30 Mk 1 Dream Girl (for sale) CC 34 Briar Patch New Orleans___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Hi, My raw water cooled 2QM15 had a problem of intermitting over heating. I check and replaced many things: hoses, belts, impeller, ... I even pickled the engine with vinegar and turned over water pump impeller backing plate thinking the wear was limiting flow. I even thought I licked the problem. After a big trip (2 two-days gulf crossings), I left the boat for a few weeks and when I returned, the engine was seized. It turned out the head gasket was slightly blown which let raw water in the cylinder and over two weeks corroded/seized a piston. I discovered the real reason for the heating problem(and likely the reason for blowing a head gasket) when I fixed the engine: severe salt scale build up! The picture below is my block with the cylinder selves removed showing what was likely 33 yrs of scale build up. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/7782378010/in/set-72157631067396554 I happily rebuilt the engine(another story) but I strongly suggest that anyone with a raw water system regularly flush the engine with a good agent like barnacle buster (and don't cheap your self by using vinegar). The $30-$50 for barnacle buster is a lot less than the $800 I spent rebuilding my yanmar. - Paul E. 1979 CC 29 Mk1 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL Begin forwarded message: Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:00:17 -0700 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Message-ID: 023e01ce581a$0e7118d0$2b534a70$@ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat - I don't think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I'm stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a mile back in again. It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket sealing was in order. All is well. Gary - Original Message - From: Robert Abbott To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Don: One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. Check for flow and pressure there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA -- From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat - I don't think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I'm stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
That is a really interesting tip to store away, and (Hopefully) remember! Bill Coleman CC 39 animated_favicon1 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 11:21 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a mile back in again. It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket sealing was in order. All is well. Gary - Original Message - From: Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@yahoo.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Don: One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. image001.gif___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat - I don't think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I'm stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
I assume you checked your seacock and strainer for blockage? I usually start troubleshooting at the easy stuff, like is there a fish in my water intake? The answer is yes, twice. The second time it happened, it was the first thing I checked. The first time it happened, it was about the 84th. On 23 May 2013 18:24, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: Hey Don, I had similar issues with my raw water SB8 on a Mirage 26 and it ended up being the cooling passages in the head and block. I tore it down and cleaned them out. Was a long process but manageable. Not sure how complicated it would be on a 3 gm. Very satisfying when I was done and sat back, beer in hand, and a smile on. Not sure if that's your issue but it may be a good place to start. Good luck! Greg Siesta '87 33-2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry -Original Message- From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 01:00:17 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat - I don't think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I'm stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat – I don’t think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I’m stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. Check for flow and pressure there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat – I don’t think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I’m stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Don: One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. Check for flow and pressure there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA *From:* Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit -- needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked -- slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat -- I don't think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I'm stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Heat exchanger? Raw water cooled so that's a possibility Joel Aronson On May 23, 2013, at 10:56 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: Don: One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. Check for flow and pressure there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA -- *From:* Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca r...@sailpower.ca *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote: Hi I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the engine. I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on. Started up and no water. I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat – I don’t think although I will replace it. The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And I’m stumped. This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers for that engine? Thanks to anyone that can help. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
