Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have no idea.  I use the orange stuff.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 3:30 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same
> but more environmentally friendly?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> *OAT* coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
> Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
> corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type.  It's still a
> marine and automotive coolant.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Better?  Maybe/maybe not.
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/what-is-hoat-coolant-4-things-you-need-to-know/

Ethylene glycol isn't actually bad for the environment.  It readily breaks
down and degrades.  It's just toxic to aminals should they ingest it.  On
the other hand, many other coolants may not be toxic to animals but they
don't biodegrade.  Propylene glycol is one of them IIRC.  I had been the
type to try for the latest and greatest products but when I learned that
ethylene glyco is arguably less impactful to the environment I switched
back.  It's more common and cheaper too.

"Ethylene glycol does not persist in large amounts in ambient air because
breakdown is rapid (half-life in air is 8-84 hours). In environmental
exposure situations, its low vapor pressure precludes substantial
inhalation exposure at ambient temperatures, and its poor skin absorption
prevents significant absorption after dermal contact. Ethylene glycol is
miscible with water and will leach through soil to groundwater. It
biodegrades rapidly in soil (half-life, 2-12 days). The half-life ranges
from 2-12 days in surface water and 4- 24 days in ground water. Because it
is not fat soluble and biodegrades rapidly, bioconcentration and
bioaccumulation are insignificant (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease
Registry 1997"

Do your own research by Google searching or pulling the SDS on your coolant
of choice.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 16:30 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same
> but more environmentally friendly?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> *OAT* coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
> Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
> corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type.  It's still a
> marine and automotive coolant.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same but 
more environmentally friendly?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

 On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 OAT coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive) Technology 
which describes the type of materials responsible for the corrosion protection 
offered by a coolant of this type.  It's still a marine and automotive coolant.
-- 
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

*OAT* coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type.  It's still a
marine and automotive coolant.
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 It was mentioned earlier, but bears repeating. Like the previous poster, I 
thought the pink stuff was for winterizing, not for engine coolant. I believe 
the pink stuff uses propylene glycol which is safe for drinking water systems.
I thought the gold standard for engine coolant is still ethylene glycol.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL
  ___

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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for the help here. Here is an update and what I did this 
morning. I took off beginning of every hose and blow in it to make sure there 
is no blockage somewhere. Then topped every hose with coolant manually. Some of 
them specially the top ones off the engine block did have bubbles coming out as 
I was pouring coolant. Anyways engine has been running now for almost half an 
hour. Temp staying around 150. And little high rpm. About 2000? Please know 
that none of the gauges work on mine. That’s the next task. So for now just 
going off sense, alarm sender(new) and I bought infrared temp gun. Fingers 
crossed it stays like that without over heating and I think I would have solved 
the problem. If so, blue smoke would be my next worry. Prob something I messed 
up during this process.

1-the coolant good stuff is that you wanna look for the pink oat premium 
coolant. Different than the winter antifreeze

2- my 3gm was adjusted to be coolant cooled. All the parts are from local shops 
unfourtanetly and doesn’t have a bleed air valve anywhere. All the hoses now 
are staying way cooler than the last few days. Even the ones after the 
thermostat, are warm not HOT.


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

On Aug 26, 2020, at 4:25 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Mazen,

Have you checked the amount of antifreeze? Try adding a little.

When was the last time that the antifreeze system was flushed and cleaned, 
including the heat exchanger?

All the best,

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 25, 2020, at 11:20 PM, Mazen Aziz via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Doug via CnC-List]

I think you have an air lock in the system. I had a 35 III a few years ago and 
it had a stock Yanmar heat exchanger. The hose that came out of the engine just 
above the water pump and goes to the water heater had brass tee fitting that 
was fitted to the block and had a bleeder valve installed. The bleeder valve 
was the high point in the sysem. My current C has a 3 cylender Yanmar 3HM 
with the same bleeder valve set up. The shop manual talks about using this 
valve to bleed the air out of the system when the antifreeze is changed or the 
hot water heater is replaced.

 

Doug Allardyce

~~~_/) _/) ~~~

C 41

BULLET

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

 

What’s the pink good stuff?  Around here, pink antifreeze is used for 
winterizing potable water systems.  It is not the good stuff for engines (at 
least not mine).

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Mazen Aziz mailto:mazen.a...@olympian.org> >
Subject: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

 

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine 
before with absolutely no experience. Got the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/boat.html> boat and started to 
follow the manual from  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/oil%20change.html> oil change, 
filters, impellers etc. However, my  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/alarm.html> alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/coolant.html> coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/water.html> 
water ofF the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust 
and no leakage anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something 
weird is that the hose from the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger to the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/pump.html> pump 
until the thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block 
and the last hose from block to the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger is really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is 
that an air block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that 
anywhere. Also after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they 
have flow on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine 
block to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually 
with coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust. 
That never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

 

Enterprise

C

San Francisco 

MAZEN AZIZ
 <https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz> 
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz 

 

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

 

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Matthew via CnC-List]

What’s the pink good stuff?  Around here, pink antifreeze is used for 
winterizing potable water systems.  It is not the good stuff for engines (at 
least not mine).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mazen Aziz 
Subject: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

 

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine 
before with absolutely no experience. Got the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/boat.html> boat and started to 
follow the manual from  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/oil%20change.html> oil change, 
filters, impellers etc. However, my  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/alarm.html> alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/coolant.html> coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/water.html> 
water ofF the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust 
and no leakage anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something 
weird is that the hose from the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger to the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/pump.html> pump 
until the thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block 
and the last hose from block to the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger is really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is 
that an air block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that 
anywhere. Also after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they 
have flow on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine 
block to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually 
with coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust. 
That never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time





Enterprise

C

San Francisco 



MAZEN AZIZ
 <https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz> 
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz 



 

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

 

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Mazen,

Have you checked the amount of antifreeze? Try adding a little. 

When was the last time that the antifreeze system was flushed and cleaned, 
including the heat exchanger? 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 25, 2020, at 11:20 PM, Mazen Aziz via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Hi josh, 

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


>> On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
> 
> Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
> the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
> thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  
> Or, you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it 
> to see if that solves the problem.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi everyone,
>> 
>> Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 
>> 35) 2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I 
>> never touched an engine before with absolutely no experience. Got the boat 
>> and started to follow the manual from oil change, filters, impellers etc. 
>> However, my engine now heats up and the idiot temp alarm comes off. I have a 
>> yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.
>> 
>> My engine had unknown green coolant, I went ahead and flushed it and 
>> replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting the overheat, I 
>> checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no problem or leak 
>> and sea water ofF the exhaust and no leakage anywhere. So I think it has to 
>> be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that the hose from the heat 
>> exchanger to the pump until the thermostat, stays cold. But from the 
>> thermostat to the engine block and the last hose from block to the heat 
>> exchanger is really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is 
>> that an air block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that 
>> anywhere. Also after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if 
>> they have flow on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from 
>> the engine block to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them 
>> up manually with coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?
>> 
>> Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I 
>> see steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue 
>> smoke from the exhaust. That never happened before. Did I mess up big time?
>> 
>> Thank you again for your time
>> 
>> Enterprise
>> C
>> San Francisco 
>> 
>> MAZEN AZIZ
>> https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz 
>>  
>> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
>> simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
>> think." Zaha Hadid
>> 
>> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
>> your shoe." Muhammad Ali
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When I added a heat exchanger to my Atomic 4 I went nuts with it overheating at 
first. It took some doing to get all the air out of the system and all the 
hoses should be full.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 11:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mazen Aziz 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=24b6f381-7820c562-24b6daf6-0cc47adc5fec-99253136cd722f36=1=8fde8b82-f7f4-4680-a5ca-e5e778138da8=https%3A%2F%2Fmazenaziz.wixsite.com%2Fmazenaziz>


“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford


"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali



On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/boat.html> and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/oil%20change.html>, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/alarm.html> 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/coolant.html>, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/water.html> ofF the 
exhaust<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> to 
the pump<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/pump.html> until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html>. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C
San Francisco

MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=53ae3065-0f380686-53ae1912-0cc47adc5fec-20859f27f3f7a9e2=1=8fde8b82-f7f4-4680-a5ca-e5e778138da8=https%3A%2F%2Fmazenaziz.wixsite.com%2Fmazenaziz>




"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad

Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3gm30

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just some thoughts based on our 3GM with Sender fresh water cooling

1)  It is not normal for any hose to be dry

2)  Check the fluid level in the Sendur heat exchanger.  Run engine without 
radiator cap until thermostat opens allowing full coolant flow.  Top off with 
anti freeze as needed.  This is the engine side of the system – not the water.  
Check to verify fluid is moving in exchanger. If system has been drained, there 
may be an air pocket somewhere that needs to be pushed out by fluid. Exchanger 
fluid level should be absolutely full when warm. There should be a plastic 
overflow / expansion tank connected to exchanger just under cap.  Should have 1 
– 2 inches of coolant.

3)   Are you getting water out the exhaust??  If so then water side of 
system is probably OK.  If not, common issue Is exhaust riser water passage 
gets blocked.  Fix is replace riser

 

Best of luck – the 3GM is a great engine

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C
San Francisco


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading
to the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that
the thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot
water.  Or, you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily)
without it to see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the
> boat(C 35) 2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine
> Maintinance. I never touched an engine
>  before with
> absolutely no experience. Got the boat
>  and started to
> follow the manual from oil change
> , filters,
> impellers etc. However, my engine
>  now heats up and
> the idiot temp alarm
>  comes off. I have
> a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.
>
> My engine had unknown green coolant
> , I went ahead
> and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While
> troubleshooting the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new),
> pumps rotate with no problem or leak and sea water
>  ofF the exhaust
>  and no leakage
> anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is
> that the hose from the heat exchanger
>  to the
> pump  until the
> thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the
> last hose from block to the heat exchanger
>  is
> really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air
> block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also
> after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow
> on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block
> to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with
> coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?
>
> Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I
> see steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue
> smoke from the exhaust
> . That never
> happened before. Did I mess up big time?
>
> Thank you again for your time
>
> Enterprise
> C
> San Francisco
>
> *MAZEN AZIZ*
> https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz
>
>
>
> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a
> very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to
> make you think." Zaha Hadid
>
>
> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble
> in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C
San Francisco


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Al,
I had a similar problem on a 3qm30 where it would overheat at anything
above 1400 rpm. (normal cruise rpm was 2400). Here are somethings to check.
How is the water flow out the exhaust, is it less than normal? Is the heat
exchanger plugged or partially plugged. If you think you may have blown a
head gasket, check the oil. Is it chocolate milk color? Is your engine
fresh water cooled? if it is a blown head gasket may blow bubbles into the
cooling system.
If I have missed I am sure someone will chime in.
Good luck
Doug


On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 7:45 PM Al Serrato via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next
> steps.
>
> I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20
> minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds,
> it rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I
> started it and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that
> some air had gotten in, and it started right up.
>
> It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I
> thought it sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it
> was that was different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then
> the high temp alarm went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It
> normally runs at about 130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back
> in. The raw water strainer was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might
> have failed, since it’s close to two years old. But when I opened the pump,
> it was fine. I replaced it with a new one anyway and ran the engine for 45
> minutes today at the dock, under load, and it ran fine.
>
> I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past
> 1800 or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The
> engine was clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke
> from the exhaust.
>
> I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem
> unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it
> was a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it
> today, it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t.
>
> Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into
> the mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Al Serrato
> Senza Fine
> San Francisco Bay
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Just a suggestion, if it happens again, pull the hose off of the through hull 
supplying raw water to your Yanmar.  Open the valve and you should get a face 
full of SF Bay.
If not, you may have sucked something into the raw water feed that did not hit 
the filter.  In my case I found a very surprised looking smelt.
I religiously watch the exhaust.  I have been told that some engines produce 
steam, but I don’t understand why the manufacturer would design an engine  that 
would exceed the cooling capacity.  I understand in very cold weather the warm 
water will create some steam.  With my boats, it was always a symptom of 
something in the system failing.
Cheers
Rick.
Paikea C 37+

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 20, 2020, at 19:45, Al Serrato via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next 
> steps.
> 
> I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20 
> minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds, it 
> rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I started 
> it and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that some air had 
> gotten in, and it started right up. 
> 
> It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I thought 
> it sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was that 
> was different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then the high temp 
> alarm went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It normally runs at 
> about 130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back in. The raw water 
> strainer was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might have failed, since 
> it’s close to two years old. But when I opened the pump, it was fine. I 
> replaced it with a new one anyway and ran the engine for 45 minutes today at 
> the dock, under load, and it ran fine.
> 
> I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past 
> 1800 or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The 
> engine was clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke 
> from the exhaust.
> 
> I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem 
> unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it 
> was a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it 
> today, it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t. 
> 
> Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into 
> the mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Al Serrato
> Senza Fine
> San Francisco Bay
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Al Serrato via CnC-List]

I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next 
steps.

I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20 
minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds, it 
rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I started it 
and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that some air had 
gotten in, and it started right up. 

It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I thought it 
sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was that was 
different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then the high temp alarm 
went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It normally runs at about 
130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back in. The raw water strainer 
was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might have failed, since it’s close 
to two years old. But when I opened the pump, it was fine. I replaced it with a 
new one anyway and ran the engine for 45 minutes today at the dock, under load, 
and it ran fine.

I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past 1800 
or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The engine was 
clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke from the 
exhaust.

I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem 
unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it was 
a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it today, 
it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t. 

Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into the 
mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.

Thanks in advance.

Al Serrato
Senza Fine
San Francisco Bay


Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

90% of the time, overheating on a yanmar is due to restriction in the
exhaust where the water get injected after the manifold.
Usually it connects to a rubber bellows/hose that can be easily taken out.
Then poke into the exhaust with a large screwdriver and see if you see
flakes of carbon
Ahmet
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 10:57 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If it was really fouled then he probably would have noticed that it wasn't
> achieving the same thrust to RPM or speed to rpm ratio.  This usually is
> also accompanied by black smoke indicating too much engine load.
>
> I have not heard any reports regarding the condition of the impeller.  I
> have also not heard anything about the intake side of the heat exchanger.
> I'd definitely be checking both of those.  Also the belt on the impeller
> can be difficult to get tight enough to prevent slipping.
>
> You might consider using a garden hose to lightly pressurize the raw water
> system.  You could even do it by shoving the hose up the through-hull from
> outside.  (you'll need the dive gear again)  Then with the boat securely
> tied, load up the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On May 30, 2016 10:25 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher
> than that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe
> around the exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should
> not overheat with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really
> fouled?
>
>
> > On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove
> the boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel
> followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the
> water intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way
> there.
> >
> > We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.
> >
> > Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure.
> >
> > Tom Buscaglia
> > S/V Alera
> > 1990 C 37+/40
> > Vashon WA
> > P 206.463.9200
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If it was really fouled then he probably would have noticed that it wasn't
achieving the same thrust to RPM or speed to rpm ratio.  This usually is
also accompanied by black smoke indicating too much engine load.

I have not heard any reports regarding the condition of the impeller.  I
have also not heard anything about the intake side of the heat exchanger.
I'd definitely be checking both of those.  Also the belt on the impeller
can be difficult to get tight enough to prevent slipping.

You might consider using a garden hose to lightly pressurize the raw water
system.  You could even do it by shoving the hose up the through-hull from
outside.  (you'll need the dive gear again)  Then with the boat securely
tied, load up the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 30, 2016 10:25 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
wrote:

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher
than that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe
around the exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should
not overheat with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really
fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove
the boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel
followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the
water intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way
there.
>
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.
>
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher than 
that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe around the 
exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should not overheat 
with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
> boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel 
> followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water 
> intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.
> 
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  
> 
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel followed 
by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water intake to 
the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.

We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  

Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

If I remember my chem correctly, 50-50 forms a constant freezing/ boiling 
azeotrope; any mix with less or more freezes at a higher temp (boils at a lower 
one) and by extension has a less effective heat transfer.RonWild CheriC 
30-1STL


  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
 Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 6:13 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR
   
I know that the mix should be 50/50, but what happens if it is more antifreeze 
and less water? I don,t remember reading anything about any ill effects, but 
let us know if you know of something that I don’t.  thanks MarekPerkins M20 
From: rshibe via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 2:39 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: rshibe Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR If 
your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more than 
50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I know that the mix should be 50/50, but what happens if it is more antifreeze 
and less water? I don,t remember reading anything about any ill effects, but 
let us know if you know of something that I don’t. 

thanks

Marek
Perkins M20

From: rshibe via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 2:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: rshibe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[svpegasus38]

Tom, lots of good suggestions so far. I have one other. When was the last 
time your heat exchanger tubes were rodded out? If you are unfamiliar with 
this, these are the tubes you see inside when the cap is removed. There should 
be a cap on at least 1 end to access the raw water side of the exchanger. If 
even some are plugged it will cause overheating. I had about 40% of mine 
plugged coming back from Port Townsend. It was an 85* day and no wind (of 
coarse) could only motor at 1400 or the alarm would go off. I cleaned mine 
using diluted miuratic acid to soften the build up. Then i rinsed it good, 
followed bu cleaning the tube with some twisted safety wire in my drill. And a 
final wash with the miuratic acid, and another good rinse. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Sun, May 
29, 2016 09:04To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Tom Buscaglia;Subject:Stus-List 
Overheating YANMAR
We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a clubevent in Olympia WA 
and are hiving a problem with overheating with our3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's the 
deal...

We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition ofthe bottom 
and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We havehad some intermittent 
issues with overheating, but it was usually mepushing too hard in heavy seas or 
running above the usual RPMrange.  Backing off always relieved the problem.  
And we haveno gauge, so this is all based on the alarm which may or may not 
beaccurate.

As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I wasbelow 
messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running atabout 2200 
RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above thatthe alarm sounded and we 
had to back down. We continued on at 4.5KTS.

I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there. Water seems to be 
exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haulout and bottom job next 
month, and did not have a diver clean the bottomand prop (should have done that 
for sure).  My assumption was thatthe barnacles on the prop and dirty bottom, 
along with the 15-20 KT headwind were taxing the engine and causing the 
overheating.  But the"experts" in my club feel otherwise.

I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be theproblem.  I was able 
to get the water hose off and poke around inthere with a wire, but decided that 
pulling the exhaust hose was notsomething to try 30 miles from home as if I 
screwed it up and damages theexhaust hose I could be stuck here for  a while.  

I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and 
amwondering if that may actually be the problem.   I have asked tohave it 
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's notelling what that 
entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goesinto the yard for the pain 
job I think replacing the gooseneck with thestainless aftermarket one may be in 
order. 

Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottomand barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
overheating problem?

2.  Would a carboned upgooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
experiencing?

3.  Where can I get oneof those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B
.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[rshibe via CnC-List]

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

> On May 29, 2016, at 12:59, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Tom
> 
> Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
> hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, 
> but in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on 
> the engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
> I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of 
> crud both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the 
> cooling system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may 
> have stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
> Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
> overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I 
> have pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was 
> wrenching on it.
> I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this 
> application. Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless 
> steel.  Any opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this 
> area? Titanium would be awesome!
> It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is 
> in our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a 
> south sound swing in June as well!
> Fair seas,
> 
> Rick
> 
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
>> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
>> the deal...
>> 
>> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
>> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
>> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
>> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
>> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
>> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
>> 
>> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
>> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
>> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
>> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
>> 
>> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
>> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job 
>> next month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have 
>> done that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and 
>> dirty bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
>> causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
>> 
>> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
>> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
>> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
>> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck 
>> here for  a while.  
>> 
>> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
>> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
>> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
>> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
>> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
>> one may be in order. 
>> 
>> Here are my questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
>> overheating problem?
>> 
>> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
>> experiencing?
>> 
>> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
>> 
>> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
>> 
>> thx
>> 
>> Tom B
>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the 

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Tom

Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, but 
in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on the 
engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of crud 
both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the cooling 
system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may have 
stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I have 
pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was wrenching on 
it.
I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this application. 
Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless steel.  Any 
opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this area? Titanium 
would be awesome!
It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is in 
our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a south 
sound swing in June as well!
Fair seas,

Rick

Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA 
> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

You didn’t say anything about reduced water flow.  That would be the first 
indicator for over heating, and I’d check your impeller first and then ALL the 
hoses for scale.  I’ve seen a lot of stuff stuck to the walls of the hose 
between the strainer and the water pump.  The entrance to the water pump is 
surprisingly small, and a scrap of scale could easily reduce the flow.  Work 
through all the hoses, and see if your flow doesn’t increase.  Yes the little 
one to the exhaust elbow gets clogged easy.

Everyone wants to go nuclear, worst it can be before doing the easy stuff.  Or 
maybe you already did all that. . .

2 cents, Lee 



On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We are on our first extended cruise of the year 
for a club event in Olympia WA and are hiving a 
problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's the deal...


We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending 
on the condition of the bottom and the prop, that 
gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
intermittent issues with overheating, but it was 
usually me pushing too hard in heavy seas or 
running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off 
always relieved the problem.  And we have no 
gauge, so this is all based on the alarm which may or may not be accurate.


As we were heading out this time the Admiral was 
at the helm and I was below messing with 
something and the alarm went off as we were 
running at about 2200 RPM.  We were able to run 
at under 2000, but above that the alarm sounded 
and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.


I checked the strainer and through hull.  All 
good there.  Water seems to be exiting the 
exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and 
bottom job next month, and did not have a diver 
clean the bottom and prop (should have done that 
for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles 
on the prop and dirty bottom, along with the 
15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.


I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that 
might be the problem.  I was able to get the 
water hose off and poke around in there with a 
wire, but decided that pulling the exhaust hose 
was not something to try 30 miles from home as if 
I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I 
could be stuck here for  a while.


I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have 
with exhaust back up and am wondering if that may 
actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but 
there's no telling what that entailed or even if 
it was doneso, when she goes into the yard 
for the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck 
with the stainless aftermarket one may be in order.


Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle 
encrusted prop- result in an overheating problem?


2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a 
problem like the one I am experiencing?


3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!