Re: Stus-List Replacing anodes
Len, I've considered the same thing and even gone so far as to use a meter to check continuity between the tank and the anode. I've never found a discontinuity. It goes to my earlier reply that these "sealants" are not actually supposed to seal pipe joints. What they do is lubricate the threads and allow the joint to be tightened further than without. The seal ultimately comes from the metal to metal contact between the two pieces. One could argue that the sealant packs into the interstitial spaces of the threads and lands - and it may if too much sealant is used or the joint is not tightened enough - however, a leak tight connection is almost always achievable without lubricant or with even the lightest weight lubricant. It is also within reason to argue that certain lubricants/sealants limit/eliminate corrosion and thus facilitate removal of the fitting in the future. As stated before, I've had more fittings leak because of too much sealant/Teflon tape then because of too little. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Jan 3, 2019, 11:28 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > Just thinking about the replies, the threads are tapered so that will help > seal the connection. I have had success with tape and liquid pipe thread > sealant on water heaters before but do anodes have to be electrically > grounded or connected to the surrounding metal? If the answer is yes, is > there a dialectic sealant? Len > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Replacing anodes
Just thinking about the replies, the threads are tapered so that will help seal the connection. I have had success with tape and liquid pipe thread sealant on water heaters before but do anodes have to be electrically grounded or connected to the surrounding metal? If the answer is yes, is there a dialectic sealant? Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
David, I tend to look a bit askance at Teflon tape myself. I have a fear of a small piece of tape finding its way somewhere I don't want it. Try to find some of the TuffGel. It's a good product. I use it on threads on boats but tend to use regular pipe thread sealant (pipe dope) around the house. As the list knows, I'm a huge fan of TefGel but don't talk much about its cousin, TuffGel simply because TuffGel isn't as readily available as TefGel. Dennis C. On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 11:01 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home > plumbing projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make > joints without leaks. The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is > useless and that is consistent with my experience. So I never use teflon > tape for anything anymore. I now use only pipe thread compound on home and > boat plumbing projects and have not had any problems with leaks. I think > that makes more sense in this case and replacing the anode more frequently > than every 25 years will probably make it easier to get the threads loose. > There is no dissimilar metals issue with the water tank or heat exchanger > to need tef-gel. > > PS- I forgot to ask this- I am not sure I understand the electrical > circuit of metals in the boat case that requires these anodes. If the > water heater or engine heat exchanger anode is completely gone, but the > shaft anodes are present, is there still a danger to metals? Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Both? Kinda. Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel. I > have some. However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort. > I think pipe joint compound would work fine. Teflon tape would probably be > OK also. > > Dennis C. > > On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> >> >> So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one? >> >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
I'm a huge fan of Teflon tape. The white stuff is usually good enough. I use it everywhere. I've found that too much is worse than none at all. I work in an industry where pipe fittings and caps are used all the time. We rarely use sealants of any kind and simply tighten until it stops leaking. As I understand it the dope, tuff-gel, or Teflon tape is simply there to "lubricate" the threads. If tape is used then it should be applied in a clockwise direction such that as the fitting is tightened the tape tightens into the threads. If it is applied backwards it has a tendency to unwrap as the fitting is tightened. I use as little as possible and usually find the 2 wraps is the minimum that I can get away with. Pull it tight. All water heaters have anodes, including the heaters in your home. I think it is a copper pipe/steel tank thing. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 12:01 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home > plumbing projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make > joints without leaks. The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is > useless and that is consistent with my experience. So I never use teflon > tape for anything anymore. I now use only pipe thread compound on home and > boat plumbing projects and have not had any problems with leaks. I think > that makes more sense in this case and replacing the anode more frequently > than every 25 years will probably make it easier to get the threads loose. > There is no dissimilar metals issue with the water tank or heat exchanger > to need tef-gel. > > PS- I forgot to ask this- I am not sure I understand the electrical > circuit of metals in the boat case that requires these anodes. If the > water heater or engine heat exchanger anode is completely gone, but the > shaft anodes are present, is there still a danger to metals? Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Both? Kinda. Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel. I > have some. However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort. > I think pipe joint compound would work fine. Teflon tape would probably be > OK also. > > Dennis C. > > On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> >> >> So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one? >> >> >> ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home plumbing projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make joints without leaks. The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is useless and that is consistent with my experience. So I never use teflon tape for anything anymore. I now use only pipe thread compound on home and boat plumbing projects and have not had any problems with leaks. I think that makes more sense in this case and replacing the anode more frequently than every 25 years will probably make it easier to get the threads loose. There is no dissimilar metals issue with the water tank or heat exchanger to need tef-gel. PS- I forgot to ask this- I am not sure I understand the electrical circuit of metals in the boat case that requires these anodes. If the water heater or engine heat exchanger anode is completely gone, but the shaft anodes are present, is there still a danger to metals? Dave S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT > On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Both? Kinda. Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel. I > have some. However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort. I > think pipe joint compound would work fine. Teflon tape would probably be OK > also. > > Dennis C. > > On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > > > So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one? > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
Dave, I commend you for being able to budge the anode with the heater still in place. I tried and failed. I managed to do it only after the heater was out of the boat. Happy New Year! Marek From: CnC-List On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 10:17 To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing anodes Then I pulled out my bigger wrench to try. It was very difficult to find an angle to get it on in a place I could pull on, but finally managed and low and behold, it finally budged. I thought I was going to pull the whole water heater off its mount, but the threads gave first. I was then able to remove it iwth the smaller wrench and will replace in the spring. So Marek and Josh get bonus points for that suggestion if we are keeping track. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
Both? Kinda. Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel. I have some. However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort. I think pipe joint compound would work fine. Teflon tape would probably be OK also. Dennis C. On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one? > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
I wanted to report back on progress on this job. I had sprayed the water heater anode with PB Blaster and tried again with the same pipe wrench and still no luck. Then I pulled out my bigger wrench to try. It was very difficult to find an angle to get it on in a place I could pull on, but finally managed and low and behold, it finally budged. I thought I was going to pull the whole water heater off its mount, but the threads gave first. I was then able to remove it iwth the smaller wrench and will replace in the spring. So Marek and Josh get bonus points for that suggestion if we are keeping track. So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one? I also got the end cap off the heat exchanger and as predicted, there were lots of bits of old anode inside. The hassle is that it appears that you can’t install the new anode while the heat exchanger is mounted on the engine. The anode is too long to fit into the narrow space underneath to slide it in. So I am hoping that if I remove one bolt, I can rotate it enough to get the new one in without taking everything apart. I guess the plus of this is it will be that much less likely to have stuck bolts if these are exercised periodically. Thanks for the suggestions and Happy New Year. Dave > On Dec 4, 2018, at 8:57 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > wrote: > > I replaced my water heater last year. When it was still installed, I tried to > remove the anode from it. I tried various options and nothing worked. When I > removed it from the boat, I managed to unscrew it. You need the proper > leverage. In my case the close quarters did not help. A bigger wrench or a > stronger arm should help. But you need a good purchase in the first place. > > Marek > 1994 C270 Legato > Ottawa, ON > > From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <> > Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2018 00:01 > To: C List <> > Cc: Josh Muckley <> > Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing anodes > > As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe wrench. > I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight. It is about 4 years old and > looking pretty rough. I think it will last at least through till next year. > > Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
Same here. I replaced both the anode and heating element on our 1983 Raritan Water Heater last year. Needed a good purchase with a 24" pipe wrench. I had the enclosure off for painting and was working with the tank itself. This year I might just plumb in the engine heating loop. It was not connected when we bought our current C 35-3. I do enjoy having hot water on the boat. Neil Schiller 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC On 12/4/2018 8:57 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: I replaced my water heater last year. When it was still installed, I tried to remove the anode from it. I tried various options and nothing worked. When I removed it from the boat, I managed to unscrew it. You need the proper leverage. In my case the close quarters did not help. A bigger wrench or a stronger arm should help. But you need a good purchase in the first place. Marek 1994 C270 Legato Ottawa, ON *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List *Sent:* Tuesday, December 4, 2018 00:01 *To:* C List *Cc:* Josh Muckley *Subject:* Re: Stus-List replacing anodes As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe wrench. I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight. It is about 4 years old and looking pretty rough. I think it will last at least through till next year. Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Dec 3, 2018, 12:18 PM David Knecht via CnC-List I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on spring projects. Nothing went smoothly (what else is new): #1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode. This is the first time I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown when was the last change. I was unable to budge the threads at all with a large pipe wrench. Suggestions on how to get it loose without damage to the unit? Will PB blaster do anything to pipe compound? #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years ago. The cap came off without the zinc itself. I first interpreted this as the zinc being completely gone. However, when I tried to insert a new one, it was blocked from going in at all. I am guessing this means the zinc core broke off and is stuck inside. If I take the end cap off, can I get to the piece inside? Is this a common problem? Thanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7Cea305cb4452049cbcabe08d659a58193%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636794964705984439=CIVd7wFyK4MerE00e%2FL185UUScJqAijQLltqUbSUQBM%3D=0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
The threads on the new anode would be a good place for some TefGel. :) Dennis C. On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 7:58 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I replaced my water heater last year. When it was still installed, I tried > to remove the anode from it. I tried various options and nothing worked. > When I removed it from the boat, I managed to unscrew it. You need the > proper leverage. In my case the close quarters did not help. A bigger > wrench or a stronger arm should help. But you need a good purchase in the > first place. > > Marek > 1994 C270 Legato > Ottawa, ON > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 4, 2018 00:01 > *To:* C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List replacing anodes > > As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe > wrench. I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight. It is about 4 years > old and looking pretty rough. I think it will last at least through till > next year. > > Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > On Mon, Dec 3, 2018, 12:18 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > >> I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on >> spring projects. Nothing went smoothly (what else is new): >> >> #1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode. This is the first >> time I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown >> when was the last change. I was unable to budge the threads at all with a >> large pipe wrench. Suggestions on how to get it loose without damage to >> the unit? Will PB blaster do anything to pipe compound? >> >> #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years >> ago. The cap came off without the zinc itself. I first interpreted this >> as the zinc being completely gone. However, when I tried to insert a new >> one, it was blocked from going in at all. I am guessing this means the >> zinc core broke off and is stuck inside. If I take the end cap off, can I >> get to the piece inside? Is this a common problem? >> >> Thanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> <https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7Cea305cb4452049cbcabe08d659a58193%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636794964705984439=CIVd7wFyK4MerE00e%2FL185UUScJqAijQLltqUbSUQBM%3D=0> >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
I replaced my water heater last year. When it was still installed, I tried to remove the anode from it. I tried various options and nothing worked. When I removed it from the boat, I managed to unscrew it. You need the proper leverage. In my case the close quarters did not help. A bigger wrench or a stronger arm should help. But you need a good purchase in the first place. Marek 1994 C270 Legato Ottawa, ON From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2018 00:01 To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing anodes As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe wrench. I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight. It is about 4 years old and looking pretty rough. I think it will last at least through till next year. Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Dec 3, 2018, 12:18 PM David Knecht via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7Cea305cb4452049cbcabe08d659a58193%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636794964705984439=CIVd7wFyK4MerE00e%2FL185UUScJqAijQLltqUbSUQBM%3D=0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe wrench. I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight. It is about 4 years old and looking pretty rough. I think it will last at least through till next year. Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Dec 3, 2018, 12:18 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on > spring projects. Nothing went smoothly (what else is new): > > #1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode. This is the first > time I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown > when was the last change. I was unable to budge the threads at all with a > large pipe wrench. Suggestions on how to get it loose without damage to > the unit? Will PB blaster do anything to pipe compound? > > #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years > ago. The cap came off without the zinc itself. I first interpreted this > as the zinc being completely gone. However, when I tried to insert a new > one, it was blocked from going in at all. I am guessing this means the > zinc core broke off and is stuck inside. If I take the end cap off, can I > get to the piece inside? Is this a common problem? > > Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
Hi Dennis, Thanks for the great resource to heat exchanger maintenance. FWIW, I keep several 1/8" wooden dowels aboard (Walmart or Michaels) to ream out the scale buildup in the heat exchanger of my Universal M4-30. It makes a huge difference cleaning the tubes out and I do that each fall after I change the oil and before I pump the pink stuff throught the engine. The wooden dowels come in a length I can break in half and I keep them in a Rubbermaid container onboard labeled "Engine", with spare belts, oil filters, fuel filters, oil absorbent towels, spare raw water pump impellers, zinc anodes for the heat exchanger (I have to use a hack saw and cut off the shelf anodes to fit my heat exchanger) and spare zincs for the Maxprop and shaft. I've never replaced the gaskets or the O-rings on the end cap bolts in the 16 years I've had the boat. But wooden dowels have saved me several times when the engine was overheating. Now I'm cursed and will have to order those heat exchanger gasket parts. > On December 3, 2018 at 1:51 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" > wrote: > > Dave, > > Yes, broken heat exchanger anodes is a common issue. Happens on Touche' > frequently. :( > > First, you can simply take a dowel or rod and tap the anode piece into > the exchanger. Depending on how many other anode bits are in the exchanger, > you may be fine. HOWEVER, IF this has been done a bunch of times, there is a > potential for one pass of your exchanger to be restricted and you will suffer > engine overheating. > > I went through this last year with my Universal 25XPB. Fix is > straightforward but may be complicated by access to your exchanger. You'll > need to remove the exchanger end caps and remove ALL the anode bits. Flush > the tubes liberally with pressure water. Chances are the tubes are fairly > clean but inspect them to be sure. Due to access issues, I shined a light in > one end while looking with a mirror on the other end. If clean, reinstall > the end caps with NEW gaskets. You can install the new anode before you put > the end caps on just to see what it looks like inside the exchanger. Just > helps with visualization. > > Here's a good article on the issue: > > > https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/ > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few > > years ago. The cap came off without the zinc itself. I first interpreted > > this as the zinc being completely gone. However, when I tried to insert a > > new one, it was blocked from going in at all. I am guessing this means the > > zinc core broke off and is stuck inside. If I take the end cap off, can I > > get to the piece inside? Is this a common problem? > > > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
Dave, Yes, broken heat exchanger anodes is a common issue. Happens on Touche' frequently. :( First, you can simply take a dowel or rod and tap the anode piece into the exchanger. Depending on how many other anode bits are in the exchanger, you may be fine. HOWEVER, IF this has been done a bunch of times, there is a potential for one pass of your exchanger to be restricted and you will suffer engine overheating. I went through this last year with my Universal 25XPB. Fix is straightforward but may be complicated by access to your exchanger. You'll need to remove the exchanger end caps and remove ALL the anode bits. Flush the tubes liberally with pressure water. Chances are the tubes are fairly clean but inspect them to be sure. Due to access issues, I shined a light in one end while looking with a mirror on the other end. If clean, reinstall the end caps with NEW gaskets. You can install the new anode before you put the end caps on just to see what it looks like inside the exchanger. Just helps with visualization. Here's a good article on the issue: https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/ Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years > ago. The cap came off without the zinc itself. I first interpreted this > as the zinc being completely gone. However, when I tried to insert a new > one, it was blocked from going in at all. I am guessing this means the > zinc core broke off and is stuck inside. If I take the end cap off, can I > get to the piece inside? Is this a common problem? > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List replacing anodes
I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on spring projects. Nothing went smoothly (what else is new): #1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode. This is the first time I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown when was the last change. I was unable to budge the threads at all with a large pipe wrench. Suggestions on how to get it loose without damage to the unit? Will PB blaster do anything to pipe compound? #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years ago. The cap came off without the zinc itself. I first interpreted this as the zinc being completely gone. However, when I tried to insert a new one, it was blocked from going in at all. I am guessing this means the zinc core broke off and is stuck inside. If I take the end cap off, can I get to the piece inside? Is this a common problem? Thanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
