Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

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Dave, please take lots of photos, I, for one, am hoping to use your blog as a 
"how to" to do the same for my boat...and no one around here has ever even 
attempted to lift a boat off its keel.
many thanks...

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: Jake Brodersen 
Cc: cnc-list 
Sent: Thu, Jan 22, 2015 7:07 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts


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Jake,


Thanks much for the help offer. I finished the bracing for the keel yesterday. 
This morning I head to the yard (if I can find it in this fog…) and we lift the 
hull off and move it into the shed. The yard has not really done this before so 
I keep showing them pictures of your hull sans keel and saying “we can do this…"


Pictures of the keel bracing just posted in my sporadically updated blog.


Best,



Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit





On Jan 20, 2015, at 8:05 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:



Dave,
 
I hauled the boat yesterday.  It is time to retorque the forward keel bolt and 
check the torque on the rest of them.  It has been far too long since I R&R’d 
the keel.  My ¾” ratchet set is ready, as well as a nice long bar to put over 
the handle.  It would be nice to have a torque multiplier, but a bit of elbow 
grease will have to do for now.   Other than that, it’s time to sand, paint, 
and polish before I splash in April.  If you have any questions, let me know.  
I’ve been there before and have learned a lot from the process.
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA
 
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 7:30 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

 
Burt,

 

I’m not sure what model C&C you have but the bolts on my 37’ are two sizes, 
with the smaller one (keel bolt) directly under the mast. I’m fairly certain 
that two different torque values may be called for. I haven’t even measured 
them yet but tomorrow I start building a cradle/support in advance of lifting 
the hull off of the keel (and removing the rudder) prior to moving the the hull 
into the shed for painting. I won’t be tightening the keel until sometime next 
late spring but would be interested in what you find when re-torqueing yours if 
you drop the keel.

 

Jake Brodersen (C&C 35 MKIII) on the list has done this and he may be a good 
source of info. I’ve seen the pictures of his keel and the forward bolt is 
extremely long. Very, very long...

 

Good luck.

 

Best,




Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit



 


On Jan 19, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any 
duplication.

 

I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and 
sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want to 
be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel bolts 
appear to be the same approximate size – very large. The nuts look like one and 
three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of the mast step 
that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if that is a keel bolt. 
It doesn’t look like one. It almost looks like it could be a ground point but 
there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up over the forward most part 
of the keel right in the center of the bottom of the hull.

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

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Jake,

Thanks much for the help offer. I finished the bracing for the keel yesterday. 
This morning I head to the yard (if I can find it in this fog…) and we lift the 
hull off and move it into the shed. The yard has not really done this before so 
I keep showing them pictures of your hull sans keel and saying “we can do this…"

Pictures of the keel bracing just posted in my sporadically updated blog.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 8:05 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> I hauled the boat yesterday.  It is time to retorque the forward keel bolt 
> and check the torque on the rest of them.  It has been far too long since I 
> R&R’d the keel.  My ¾” ratchet set is ready, as well as a nice long bar to 
> put over the handle.  It would be nice to have a torque multiplier, but a bit 
> of elbow grease will have to do for now.   Other than that, it’s time to 
> sand, paint, and polish before I splash in April.  If you have any questions, 
> let me know.  I’ve been there before and have learned a lot from the process.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 7:30 PM
> To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts
>  
> Burt,
>  
> I’m not sure what model C&C you have but the bolts on my 37’ are two sizes, 
> with the smaller one (keel bolt) directly under the mast. I’m fairly certain 
> that two different torque values may be called for. I haven’t even measured 
> them yet but tomorrow I start building a cradle/support in advance of lifting 
> the hull off of the keel (and removing the rudder) prior to moving the the 
> hull into the shed for painting. I won’t be tightening the keel until 
> sometime next late spring but would be interested in what you find when 
> re-torqueing yours if you drop the keel.
>  
> Jake Brodersen (C&C 35 MKIII) on the list has done this and he may be a good 
> source of info. I’ve seen the pictures of his keel and the forward bolt is 
> extremely long. Very, very long...
>  
> Good luck.
>  
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>  
>> On Jan 19, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any 
>> duplication.
>>  
>> I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and 
>> sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want 
>> to be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel 
>> bolts appear to be the same approximate size – very large. The nuts look 
>> like one and three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of 
>> the mast step that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if 
>> that is a keel bolt. It doesn’t look like one. It almost looks like it could 
>> be a ground point but there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up 
>> over the forward most part of the keel right in the center of the bottom of 
>> the hull.
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> ___
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>> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
>> subscribers.
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Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I hauled the boat yesterday.  It is time to retorque the forward keel bolt and 
check the torque on the rest of them.  It has been far too long since I R&R’d 
the keel.  My ¾” ratchet set is ready, as well as a nice long bar to put over 
the handle.  It would be nice to have a torque multiplier, but a bit of elbow 
grease will have to do for now.   Other than that, it’s time to sand, paint, 
and polish before I splash in April.  If you have any questions, let me know.  
I’ve been there before and have learned a lot from the process.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 7:30 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

 

Burt,

 

I’m not sure what model C&C you have but the bolts on my 37’ are two sizes, 
with the smaller one (keel bolt) directly under the mast. I’m fairly certain 
that two different torque values may be called for. I haven’t even measured 
them yet but tomorrow I start building a cradle/support in advance of lifting 
the hull off of the keel (and removing the rudder) prior to moving the the hull 
into the shed for painting. I won’t be tightening the keel until sometime next 
late spring but would be interested in what you find when re-torqueing yours if 
you drop the keel.

 

Jake Brodersen (C&C 35 MKIII) on the list has done this and he may be a good 
source of info. I’ve seen the pictures of his keel and the forward bolt is 
extremely long. Very, very long...

 

Good luck.

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> 

 

On Jan 19, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any 
duplication.

 

I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and 
sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want to 
be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel bolts 
appear to be the same approximate size – very large. The nuts look like one and 
three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of the mast step 
that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if that is a keel bolt. 
It doesn’t look like one. It almost looks like it could be a ground point but 
there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up over the forward most part 
of the keel right in the center of the bottom of the hull.

 

 

 

 

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http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Burt,

I’m not sure what model C&C you have but the bolts on my 37’ are two sizes, 
with the smaller one (keel bolt) directly under the mast. I’m fairly certain 
that two different torque values may be called for. I haven’t even measured 
them yet but tomorrow I start building a cradle/support in advance of lifting 
the hull off of the keel (and removing the rudder) prior to moving the the hull 
into the shed for painting. I won’t be tightening the keel until sometime next 
late spring but would be interested in what you find when re-torqueing yours if 
you drop the keel.

Jake Brodersen (C&C 35 MKIII) on the list has done this and he may be a good 
source of info. I’ve seen the pictures of his keel and the forward bolt is 
extremely long. Very, very long...

Good luck.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jan 19, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any 
> duplication.
>  
> I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and 
> sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want 
> to be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel 
> bolts appear to be the same approximate size – very large. The nuts look like 
> one and three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of the 
> mast step that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if that is 
> a keel bolt. It doesn’t look like one. It almost looks like it could be a 
> ground point but there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up over the 
> forward most part of the keel right in the center of the bottom of the hull.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Burt,

Your boat is listed as being built in 1974.  Calypso is a 1970 build at 
Bruckmann's custom yard so maybe a similar keel attachment philosophy.

Calypso has many very large keel bolt/nut combos. And several smaller (shaft 
and nut) keel bolt combos.  It also has a grounding/bonding bolt for a large 
AWG wire between the mast and the mast step which is also connected to the keel.

The smaller keel bolts are often to either side of a larger keel bolt.  
Calypso's keel is made up of an iron keel with a lead "shoe" that makes up more 
than ½ of the underwater area.  Combined keel weight is over 9,000lbs.  Back in 
1999 we cut out the lead/fairing material covering most of the large keel bolt 
lower ends to inspect them for corrosion.  The keel bolt ends were L or J 
shaped and in very good condition.  Some of the smaller bolts had the look of 
being added after sailing trials to "tighten" up the connection of keel and 
hull.  Calypso is hull #1 of the 43 series and was rumored to be built in a bit 
of a hurry to make the 1971 SORC in which it won its class.  After the 71' SORC 
the boat has been raced/sailed hard every year on the east coast, great lakes, 
and now in the PNW with no significant keel issues.

Hopefully another cnc-lister has a hull similar to yours and is able to give 
more definitive information.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any 
duplication.

I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and 
sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want to 
be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel bolts 
appear to be the same approximate size - very large. The nuts look like one and 
three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of the mast step 
that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if that is a keel bolt. 
It doesn't look like one. It almost looks like it could be a ground point but 
there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up over the forward most part 
of the keel right in the center of the bottom of the hull.




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Re: Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The 3/4 inch one is still a keel bolt, and a ground point.  The keel is
thinner there and probably has a sloping leading edge so that bolt is
smaller as there is less keel for it to be buried in.

You really do need to know the diameter of your keel bolts to answer the
question about torque value.

My boat has a total of 8 keel bolts, but in 4 different diameters, the
diameter depending on their location in the keel.  The largest are even
larger that those on the torque chart, the smallest is 3/4".

The chart of keel bolt torques in on the C&C Photo Album site at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm

Ken H.

C&C 37XL Salazar

On 19 January 2015 at 15:10, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any
> duplication.
>
>
>
> I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and
> sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want
> to be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my
> keel bolts appear to be the same approximate size – very large. The nuts
> look like one and three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however
> forward of the mast step that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not
> sure if that is a keel bolt. It doesn’t look like one. It almost looks like
> it could be a ground point but there are no bonding connections to it. It
> lines up over the forward most part of the keel right in the center of the
> bottom of the hull.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all
> subscribers.
>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any
duplication.

 

I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and
sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want
to be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel
bolts appear to be the same approximate size - very large. The nuts look
like one and three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of
the mast step that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if
that is a keel bolt. It doesn't look like one. It almost looks like it could
be a ground point but there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up
over the forward most part of the keel right in the center of the bottom of
the hull.

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[LKL Architects via CnC-List]

Chuck.thanks for the good suggestion.just finished torqing my bolts 
.can easily see why you had a custom set made.  To you guys who do this by 
yourselfyou are more of a man than meit took 2 of us to get to the 
proper torqueso happy to have this task finished.  Also,  was a surprise 
that several of the nuts backed off fairly easily, so definately a good time to 
get this done.

Thanks again to everyone for your help.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF 39
Rockport, Texas


  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
  To: Michael Brown ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
  Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2014 8:42 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts


  I once had a set of sockets made up for my boat.  Bought a cheap set of 3/4" 
and 1" drive sockets from Harbor Freight and paid a welder friend to cut them 
in half and weld pipe between the two halves.  7" deep sockets.  I gave them to 
the marina mechanic with the agreement that he could use them and owners could 
borrow them. 




  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




--

  From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
  To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
  Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:25:57 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts



  Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep
  or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and
  requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive
  and at least an 18" bar.



  As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the
  appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself
  and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not
  too risky that you are going to exceed it by much.



  If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue
  and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything
  and torquing them correctly.



  If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still
  want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some
  points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching
  washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square.



  I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked
  or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose,
  maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems.



  Michael Brown
  Windburn
  C&C 30-1
   

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700 
    From: Russ & Melody  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts 
Message-ID: 
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 

Hi Lloyd, 

Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & 
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry 
& clean or lubricated? 

We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would 
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight 
on first go, but stop at movement. 

But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs. 

I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use 
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that 
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension). 

KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :) 

Cheers, Russ 
Sweet 35 mk-1 

At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: 
> 
>Hello Listers, 
> 
>While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and 
>understand 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very 
>difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever 
>used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side 
>pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench. 
> 
>Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
>re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his 
suggestion. 
> 
>I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help. 
> 
>Lloyd Lippe 
>Finesse 
>LF39 


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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I once had a set of sockets made up for my boat. Bought a cheap set of 3/4" and 
1" drive sockets from Harbor Freight and paid a welder friend to cut them in 
half and weld pipe between the two halves. 7" deep sockets. I gave them to the 
marina mechanic with the agreement that he could use them and owners could 
borrow them. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:25:57 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts 

Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep 
or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and 
requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive 
and at least an 18" bar. 

As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the 
appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself 
and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not 
too risky that you are going to exceed it by much. 

If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue 
and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything 
and torquing them correctly. 

If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still 
want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some 
points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching 
washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square. 

I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked 
or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose, 
maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems. 

Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C&C 30-1 



Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700 
From: Russ & Melody < russ...@telus.net > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts 
Message-ID: 
< mailman.10915.1413573802.4799.cnc-list_cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 

Hi Lloyd, 

Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & 
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry 
& clean or lubricated? 

We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would 
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight 
on first go, but stop at movement. 

But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs. 

I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use 
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that 
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension). 

KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :) 

Cheers, Russ 
Sweet 35 mk-1 

At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: 
> 
>Hello Listers, 
> 
>While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and 
>understand 250 lbs is needed. Boat mechanic says it is very 
>difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge. Anyone ever 
>used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side 
>pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench. 
> 
>Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
>re-tightening. That does not sound good to me. Any thought on his suggestion. 
> 
>I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help. 
> 
>Lloyd Lippe 
>Finesse 
>LF39 




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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep
or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and
requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive
and at least an 18" bar.

As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the
appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself
and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not
too risky that you are going to exceed it by much.

If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue
and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything
and torquing them correctly.

If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still
want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some
points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching
washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square.

I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked
or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose,
maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
 
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700 
From: Russ & Melody  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts 
Message-ID: 
      
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 
 
Hi Lloyd, 
 
Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off &  
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry  
& clean or lubricated? 
 
We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would  
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight  
on first go, but stop at movement. 
 
But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs. 
 
I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use  
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that  
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension). 
 
KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :) 
 
         Cheers, Russ 
         Sweet 35 mk-1 
 
At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: 
> 
>Hello Listers, 
> 
>While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and  
>understand 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very  
>difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever  
>used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side  
>pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench. 
> 
>Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then  
>re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his 
>suggestion. 
> 
>I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help. 
> 
>Lloyd Lippe 
>Finesse 
>LF39 
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Oops, I meant subtract 10%.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 2:38 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Lloyd,
>
> Good advice from the others.  Here's the link to the torque specs on the
> C&C site:
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/indexes/techndx.htm
>
> Back them off and then re-tighten.  Add 10% if you lubricate them.
>
> Look to rent a torque multiplier like suggested.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 1:01 PM, LKL Architects via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand
>> 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the
>> proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and
>> maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge
>> walls to move the torque wrench.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
>> re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his
>> suggestion.
>>
>>
>>
>> I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lloyd Lippe
>>
>> Finesse
>>
>> LF39
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Lloyd,

Good advice from the others.  Here's the link to the torque specs on the
C&C site:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/indexes/techndx.htm

Back them off and then re-tighten.  Add 10% if you lubricate them.

Look to rent a torque multiplier like suggested.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 1:01 PM, LKL Architects via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
>
>
> While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand
> 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the
> proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and
> maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge
> walls to move the torque wrench.
>
>
>
> Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
> re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his
> suggestion.
>
>
>
> I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Lippe
>
> Finesse
>
> LF39
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[LKL Architects via CnC-List]

Thank you Russ and Jim,

All good suggestions and appreciate your helpI feel a lot better going 
forward.

Lloyd
Finesse
LF 39
Rockport, Texas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:42 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts


  Hi Lloyd,

  Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
  Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & re-torque but 
it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry & clean or lubricated?

  We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would check each 
at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight on first go, but 
stop at movement.

  But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs.

  I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use an 
extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that torsion as well 
(depends on the length of the extension).

  KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :)

  Cheers, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1

  At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: 


Hello Listers,
 
While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand 
250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the proper 
leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and maybe also with 
a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge walls to move the 
torque wrench.
 
Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his suggestion.
 
I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
 
Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF39
 
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Lloyd,

Sounds like you have a good mechanic.
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & 
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry 
& clean or lubricated?


We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would 
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight 
on first go, but stop at movement.


But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs.

I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use 
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that 
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension).


KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote:


Hello Listers,

While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and 
understand 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very 
difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever 
used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side 
pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench.


Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his suggestion.


I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF39

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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Check your local rental stores, someone may be able to rent you a torque
multiplier.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 17 October 2014 11:01, LKL Architects via CnC-List  wrote:

>
>
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
>
>
> While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand
> 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the
> proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and
> maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge
> walls to move the torque wrench.
>
>
>
> Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
> re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his
> suggestion.
>
>
>
> I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Lippe
>
> Finesse
>
> LF39
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[LKL Architects via CnC-List]

LkL
 

Hello Listers,



While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand 250 
lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the proper 
leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and maybe also with 
a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge walls to move the 
torque wrench.



Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his suggestion.



I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.



Lloyd Lippe

Finesse

LF39

 

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