[drakelist] TR4 Tube Failure

[ALAN PHILLIPS]

On the TR4, V13  the 12AX7 controls the xmit alc. When transmitting on phone on 
either sideband, adjusting the mic gain to 11 or 12 o'clock, even yelling into 
the D104 produced no ALC meter deflection and lower power out. I replaced the 
tube and everything is normal. Good alc action when speaking into the D104 with 
the mic gain at 11 or 12o'clock. This is the second time I replaced this tube 
for the same problem in less than a year. Both NOS. Any thoughts? Could 
something be killing or affecting the tube?

Re: [drakelist] RF Parts

[Jim Shorney]

"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 15:07:29 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>Good products, excellent customer service, and friendly.

I had to prod them once to get an answer to a eMail request RE: a power
transistor that was not available anywhere else. I was underwhelmed by thier
lack of enthusiasm for answering a "yes or no" question in a timely manner.



-- 
Jim Shorney  -->.<--Put complaints in this box
jshorney (at) inebraska.com
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, NE, USA
EN10ps
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/


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Re: [drakelist] SUCCESS! was: T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[neil]

neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Doug Smith wrote:
> 
> Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Chuck,
> 
> Yeah, if it wasn't for contests I'd never get anything done around here.
> Last year, I was still putting up my antenna while SS started.  This
> year, I rebuilt my AC-4 for SS.  And, now I've got the rig on 160 --
> just in time.  Sheesh..

And you're not alone, either.

I decided to write my own keying and logging program for CW SS this
year, and started it about 5 hours before the contest. Well... I got
into the test about 3 am, pretty much about 8 hours late! 

First contact was KH6, which gave me some brief hope that I might
actually have a shot at a clean sweep this year, but in the end, missed
VE8, KL7 and (I can't believe it) LAX and RI. At least I _heard_
stations from the first three, but never even heard RI, which is only
about a 90 minute drive from here!

Neil KX2Y

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Re: [drakelist] SUCCESS! was: T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[Doug Smith]

Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck,

Yeah, if it wasn't for contests I'd never get anything done around here.
Last year, I was still putting up my antenna while SS started.  This
year, I rebuilt my AC-4 for SS.  And, now I've got the rig on 160 --
just in time.  Sheesh..

I'll look for you tonight!

73,
-Doug, W7KF


On Fri, 2007-11-30 at 16:25 -0500, Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> Congrats and just in time :)
> 
> My R4A and T4X are on now getting stable.
> 
>Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL



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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[LeeCraner]

In a message dated 11/30/2007 1:00:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> I assume you keep the Tee coax as short as possible.
> 
> 

You would want to keep the connection between the tee and the detector very 
short, ideally connect the two together without a coax cable.  

The connection between the detector and the HA8 could be any reasonable 
length I would imagine.  Since it is a detected signal, an audio grade cable 
should 
work.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [drakelist] SUCCESS! was: T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[Chuck Grandgent]

Congrats and just in time :)

My R4A and T4X are on now getting stable.

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL

On Nov 30, 2007 4:05 PM, Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> On Fri, 2007-11-30 at 10:05 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:
> > ... snip ...
> > Each of these components has an associated bandswitch contact, and while
> > it doesn't appear to be related to the switch contact itself, it IS
> > quite possible to be a "cold" or "rosin" solder joint on the switch
> contact.
>
> SUCCESS!!!
>
> Garey, THANK YOU!  You got me on the right track.
>
> I started by watching the plate voltage on the driver tube -- it did not
> change much and never went away completely.  So, I ruled out T9.
>
> Then, I snooped around in the area of the bandswitch and didn't see
> anything that looked obvious.  But, I decided to re-flow the solder (and
> add just a bit of fresh) on the relevant bandswitch connectors.
>
> I had to remove the shaft coupling that controls the crystal selector
> (the gear driven shaft) and rotate that shaft upright so I could get the
> soldering iron down to the bottom of the 2nd wafer on the bandswitch.  I
> re-flowed the connections to the switch and BINGO!  Full power on 160
> meters!
>
> If anyone is doing the 160 meter contest this weekend, look for me and
> my Drake twins!
>
> 73,
> -Doug, W7KF
>
>
>
>
> --
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> --
>



-- 

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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[Donley]

"Donley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey and Lee,

I also learned a lot here. If I had Googled the Tee M358 number listed in 
the manual, I would have learned that it is in fact a standard Amphenol UHF 
Tee available for about $4.00. Also, the manual shows the detector connected 
directly to the Tee so there is no coax between the two. There is coaxial 
cable between the detector and display unit. Am I correct in thinking that 
cable could just be low frequency audio cable?


Dick
KC9UB



- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.




Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Live and learn!

I assume you keep the Tee coax as short as possible.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The tee connector is a standard UHF tee, female/female/male (aka M358). 
All attenuation and protection of the HA8 takes place in the diode 
detector.  Simple to put together using a  "Pomona" box or surplus 
adapter box.


73
Lee WB6SSW



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[drakelist] SUCCESS! was: T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[Doug Smith]

Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Fri, 2007-11-30 at 10:05 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:
> ... snip ...
> Each of these components has an associated bandswitch contact, and while 
> it doesn't appear to be related to the switch contact itself, it IS 
> quite possible to be a "cold" or "rosin" solder joint on the switch contact.

SUCCESS!!!  

Garey, THANK YOU!  You got me on the right track.

I started by watching the plate voltage on the driver tube -- it did not
change much and never went away completely.  So, I ruled out T9.  

Then, I snooped around in the area of the bandswitch and didn't see
anything that looked obvious.  But, I decided to re-flow the solder (and
add just a bit of fresh) on the relevant bandswitch connectors.  

I had to remove the shaft coupling that controls the crystal selector
(the gear driven shaft) and rotate that shaft upright so I could get the
soldering iron down to the bottom of the 2nd wafer on the bandswitch.  I
re-flowed the connections to the switch and BINGO!  Full power on 160
meters!

If anyone is doing the 160 meter contest this weekend, look for me and
my Drake twins!

73,
-Doug, W7KF
  



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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Live and learn!

I assume you keep the Tee coax as short as possible.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The tee connector is a standard UHF tee, female/female/male (aka 
M358).  All attenuation and protection of the HA8 takes place in the 
diode detector.  Simple to put together using a  "Pomona" box or 
surplus adapter box.


73
Lee WB6SSW



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Re: [drakelist] Is there an archive of the Drake.list somewhere ?

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jim -



There's also a lot of good information archived at;



73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Jim F. wrote:

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--


Is there an archive of Drake list messages somewhere ?

Thanks,

jim / W1FMR


  


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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[LeeCraner]

The tee connector is a standard UHF tee, female/female/male (aka M358).  All 
attenuation and protection of the HA8 takes place in the diode detector.  
Simple to put together using a  "Pomona" box or surplus adapter box.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Tom -

OK.  The specified load for the Bias supply is ~ 30k, so a load of this 
value would emulate the load of the transceiver.


The bias goes to the PA via the  _middle_  feedthrough on the side of 
the PA shield under the chassis.  These feedthroughs are fragile and 
easily cracked if too much force is applied to the terminals.  The 
"other" points in the transceiver that are tied to the Bias supply are 
all very high impedance, so a short on one of those is unlikely to cause 
as big a difference as you are seeing.


Another "unlikely" fault would be a Grid-Cathode short in one of the 
final tubes.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Thomas Wright wrote:


"Thomas Wright" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Garey:
I measured the bias while disconnected from the transceiver, and when 
swinging the pot from stop to stop it seemed to vary the minus voltage 
linearly with no spikes, but of course the Fluke may dampen such a 
spike if it's a fast one.  I'm thinking it may be one of the two 
resistors opening up under heat or current (6.8K and 10K).  The pot 
measures correct resistance from one end to the other.  When connected 
to the rig the current was either very low or very high, but when 
disconnected, the voltage seems vernier as it should.  I thought that 
-52 volts or so may be too high a bias voltage, especially if that's 
as low as it will go.  Thanks for you continued help.

Tom

- Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias




Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Thomas -

I just re-read your message..

If the IDLE current is either Zero or 0.4A, with little adjustment, 
I'd suspect the potentiometer has a break or "bad spot" on the 
resistive element.


That behavior indicates that the Bias voltage is either some high 
value, such as 70-80 Negative volts, cutting the final tubes off 
completely, or somewhere around 30-40 Negative volts, allowing some 
400 ma of idle current, depending upon which side of the break the 
wiper is on.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Thomas Wright wrote:
Maybe you guys can direct me a little.  My AC3 has been showing 
signs of bad caps, especially in the bias section ( one of the bias 
caps measured at 700MFD).  I replaced all the caps in all sections, 
using 33MFD 160 volt caps in the bias section, and while I was there 
did the diodes. After reassembly the bias was adjustable from 41 or 
so to 80 volts. TR-4C was running well.  Today after operating for 
an hour or so, the transmitter started to show very high plate 
current, so I checked the bias and found that it was either zero or 
above .4 amps, without much adjustment between the two, and of 
course when higher the xmit relay was engaging.  Reducing xmit gain 
would not reduce the plate current.  I measured the voltage at the 
plug and the bias is now only adjustable from 52 to 94 volts, which 
I think is too high.  There's not much else to replace in the AC3 
except the bias pot and two resistors, both of which measure within 
tolerance statically.  Any thoughts?




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[drakelist] Is there an archive of the Drake.list somewhere ?

[Jim F.]

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--


Is there an archive of Drake list messages somewhere ?

Thanks,

jim / W1FMR

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Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias

[Thomas Wright]

"Thomas Wright" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey:
I measured the bias while disconnected from the transceiver, and when 
swinging the pot from stop to stop it seemed to vary the minus voltage 
linearly with no spikes, but of course the Fluke may dampen such a spike if 
it's a fast one.  I'm thinking it may be one of the two resistors opening up 
under heat or current (6.8K and 10K).  The pot measures correct resistance 
from one end to the other.  When connected to the rig the current was either 
very low or very high, but when disconnected, the voltage seems vernier as 
it should.  I thought that -52 volts or so may be too high a bias voltage, 
especially if that's as low as it will go.  Thanks for you continued help.

Tom

- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias




Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Thomas -

I just re-read your message..

If the IDLE current is either Zero or 0.4A, with little adjustment, I'd 
suspect the potentiometer has a break or "bad spot" on the resistive 
element.


That behavior indicates that the Bias voltage is either some high value, 
such as 70-80 Negative volts, cutting the final tubes off completely, or 
somewhere around 30-40 Negative volts, allowing some 400 ma of idle 
current, depending upon which side of the break the wiper is on.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Thomas Wright wrote:
Maybe you guys can direct me a little.  My AC3 has been showing signs of 
bad caps, especially in the bias section ( one of the bias caps measured 
at 700MFD).  I replaced all the caps in all sections, using 33MFD 160 
volt caps in the bias section, and while I was there did the diodes. 
After reassembly the bias was adjustable from 41 or so to 80 volts. 
TR-4C was running well.  Today after operating for an hour or so, the 
transmitter started to show very high plate current, so I checked the 
bias and found that it was either zero or above .4 amps, without much 
adjustment between the two, and of course when higher the xmit relay was 
engaging.  Reducing xmit gain would not reduce the plate current.  I 
measured the voltage at the plug and the bias is now only adjustable from 
52 to 94 volts, which I think is too high.  There's not much else to 
replace in the AC3 except the bias pot and two resistors, both of which 
measure within tolerance statically.  Any thoughts?




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Re: [drakelist] RF Parts

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Evan -

Agreed!!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Fellow enthusiasts, I've been buying parts from RF Parts for some 
number of years now, going back to when their "catalog" was something 
like a 6 page flyer, not the 96 page one they now have.  Have bought 
from them at the Dayton Hamvention, via online, and via phone.  
Without going into details, my most recent experience indicates that 
these are some of the most reputable people you will find.  Good 
products, excellent customer service, and friendly.  Hopefully, this 
is true for everybody that deals with them.  I hope they keep up the 
good work for a long, long time.


73,

Evan



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Re: [drakelist] RF Parts

[Dino Papas]

Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Ditto for my experience with RF parts!

Dino KL0S/4

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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I've never used an HA-8, but I think that UHF Tee is probably made with 
a small capacitor inserted between the "through" path and the "Tee" off 
the side.  You are correct that a "real" UHF Tee would apply the full 
transmitter power to the detector, not to mention paralleling whatever 
is out there across the transmitter output.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Donley wrote:
This is not a Drake related question but when submitted to the 
Hallicrafters group, it got no response.
 
 
I have acquired a Hallicrafters HA-8 Splatter Guard (Choice name for a 
pseudo modulation monitor) minus the detector and interconnecting 
coaxial 'TEE'. It looks like a simple matter to build a detector but I 
have a question about the 'TEE'.


Is it just a simple UHF 'TEE' connector or is there some attenuation 
built in to the original 'TEE'?


If it is just a standard UHF TEE connector, it seems like full 
transmitter power will be applied to the detector. Could this damage 
the detector or the HA-8?


Dick
KC9UB
  


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Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thomas -

I just re-read your message..

If the IDLE current is either Zero or 0.4A, with little adjustment, I'd 
suspect the potentiometer has a break or "bad spot" on the resistive 
element.


That behavior indicates that the Bias voltage is either some high value, 
such as 70-80 Negative volts, cutting the final tubes off completely, or 
somewhere around 30-40 Negative volts, allowing some 400 ma of idle 
current, depending upon which side of the break the wiper is on.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Thomas Wright wrote:
Maybe you guys can direct me a little.  My AC3 has been showing signs 
of bad caps, especially in the bias section ( one of the bias caps 
measured at 700MFD).  I replaced all the caps in all sections, using 
33MFD 160 volt caps in the bias section, and while I was there did the 
diodes.  After reassembly the bias was adjustable from 41 or so to 80 
volts.  TR-4C was running well.  Today after operating for an hour or 
so, the transmitter started to show very high plate current, so I 
checked the bias and found that it was either zero or above .4 amps, 
without much adjustment between the two, and of course when higher the 
xmit relay was engaging.  Reducing xmit gain would not reduce the 
plate current.  I measured the voltage at the plug and the bias is now 
only adjustable from 52 to 94 volts, which I think is too high.  
There's not much else to replace in the AC3 except the bias pot and 
two resistors, both of which measure within tolerance statically.  Any 
thoughts?
  


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[drakelist] RF Parts

[k9sqg]

Fellow enthusiasts, I've been buying parts from RF Parts for some number of 
years now, going back to when their "catalog" was something like a 6 page 
flyer, not the 96 page one they now have.? Have bought from them at the Dayton 
Hamvention, via online, and via phone.? Without going into details, my most 
recent experience indicates that these are some of the most reputable people 
you will find.? Good products, excellent customer service, and friendly.? 
Hopefully, this is true for everybody that deals with them.? I hope they keep 
up the good work for a long, long time.

73,

Evan


-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias


Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang?
--?
Thomas -?
?
Yeah, there are mighty few AC-3 power supplies still running with their 
original electrolytics!?
?
First of all, the Final idle current is a DC circuit that requires nothing more 
than Plate, Screen and Filament voltage, and that the Cathode is at ground 
potential. These conditions will result in the Final tubes drawing literally 
Amps of plate current for as long as the power supply, its fuse, the tube 
plates and/or the wiring will last!! ?
To control the idle current we apply a Negative voltage to the Grids of the 
final tubes, and somewhere around -50 to -60 VDC at the Grids, the final plate 
current will be around 0.1A for a trio of good tubes. If the Grid voltage is 
More negative, say -70 VDC, the idle current will _decrease_ and if the Grid 
voltage is Less negative, -40 VDC the idle current will _increase_ . So either 
range you are seeing on your Bias supply is sufficient to hold the idle current 
to 0.1A.?
?
Your problem is that your Bias supply is dropping to zero volts, which results 
in maximum Final Plate current. You don't say where you were checking the Bias 
voltage when it was at Zero, but I suspect you have either a bad solder joint 
or broken wire in the Bias supply. You can work on the supply with it 
disconnected from the transceiver, by shorting Pins 1 and 2 of the connector 
together, which applies AC to the power supply. Don't forget that there is 
still 300 and 700 VDC floating around on the other pins of that connector when 
it is ON, and for a brief period after it is turned off until the bleeder 
resistors can drop that voltage back near zero!!?
?
It's also possible that an intermittent open of either R6 or R7 is occurring, 
or that the pot wiper is losing contact with the resistive element. An "open" 
in either of these elements will take the Bias voltage to zero. An open in R5 
will take the Bias voltage to maximum. A pot cleaner/lube such as CAIG CaiLube 
can often clean a dirty pot, and sometimes just rotating the pot through it's 
range several times with the power off will clear it. Occasionally a pot 
element will open up where the wiper has been sitting for a while, and the 
circuit will operate as long as the wiper is "bridging" the break. ?
>From what you wrote, I'd suspect a problem with R5 and/or its connections.?
?
I'd suggest carefully examining the Bias supply wiring, and then with a meter 
across the output while disconnected from the TR-4 push and prod the 
connections and components will an insulated stick. Again, be aware that there 
are serious, dangerous voltages floating around in there any time the power 
supply is on.?
?
73, Garey - K4OAH?
Glen Allen, VA?
?
Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs?
?
?
?
Thomas Wright wrote:?
> Maybe you guys can direct me a little. My AC3 has been showing signs > of bad 
> caps, especially in the bias section ( one of the bias caps > measured at 
> 700MFD). I replaced all the caps in all sections, using > 33MFD 160 volt caps 
> in the bias section, and while I was there did the > diodes. After reassembly 
> the bias was adjustable from 41 or so to 80 > volts. TR-4C was running well. 
> Today after operating for an hour or > so, the transmitter started to show 
> very high plate current, so I > checked the bias and found that it was either 
> zero or above .4 amps, > without much adjustment between the two, and of 
> course when higher the > xmit relay was engaging. Reducing xmit gain would 
> not reduce the > plate current. I measured the voltage at the plug and the 
> bias is now > only adjustable from 52 to 94 volts, which I think is too high. 
> > There's not much else to replace in the AC3 except the bias pot and > two 
> resistors, both of which measure within tolerance statically. Any > thoughts??
> ?
>?
> No virus found in this incoming message.?
> Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 
> 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007 8:32 PM?
> ?
--?
S

[drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[Donley]

This is not a Drake related question but when submitted to the Hallicrafters 
group, it got no response.


I have acquired a Hallicrafters HA-8 Splatter Guard (Choice name for a pseudo 
modulation monitor) minus the detector and interconnecting coaxial 'TEE'. It 
looks like a simple matter to build a detector but I have a question about the 
'TEE'.

Is it just a simple UHF 'TEE' connector or is there some attenuation built in 
to the original 'TEE'?

If it is just a standard UHF TEE connector, it seems like full transmitter 
power will be applied to the detector. Could this damage the detector or the 
HA-8?

Dick
KC9UB

Re: [drakelist] AC3 Bias

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thomas -

Yeah, there are mighty few AC-3 power supplies still running with their 
original electrolytics!


First of all, the Final idle current is a DC circuit that requires 
nothing more than Plate, Screen and Filament voltage, and that the 
Cathode is at ground potential.  These conditions will result in the 
Final tubes drawing literally Amps of plate current for as long as the 
power supply, its fuse, the tube plates and/or the wiring will last!!  

To control the idle current we apply a Negative voltage to the Grids of 
the final tubes, and somewhere around -50 to -60 VDC at the Grids, the 
final plate current will be around 0.1A for a trio of good tubes.  If 
the Grid voltage is More negative, say -70 VDC, the idle current will  
_decrease_  and if the Grid voltage is Less negative, -40 VDC the idle 
current will  _increase_ .   So either range you are seeing on your Bias 
supply is sufficient to hold the idle current to 0.1A.


Your problem is that your Bias supply is dropping to zero volts, which 
results in maximum Final Plate current.   You don't say where you were 
checking the Bias voltage when it was at Zero, but I suspect you have 
either a bad solder joint or broken wire in the Bias supply.  You can 
work on the supply with it disconnected from the transceiver, by 
shorting Pins 1 and 2 of the connector together, which applies AC to the 
power supply.  Don't forget that there is still 300 and 700 VDC floating 
around on the other pins of that connector when it is ON, and for a 
brief period after it is turned off until the bleeder resistors can drop 
that voltage back near zero!!


It's also possible that an intermittent open of either R6 or R7 is 
occurring, or that the pot wiper is losing contact with the resistive 
element.  An "open" in either of these elements will take the Bias 
voltage to zero.  An open in R5 will take the Bias voltage to maximum.  
A pot cleaner/lube such as CAIG CaiLube can often clean a dirty pot, and 
sometimes just rotating the pot through it's range several times with 
the power off will clear it.  Occasionally a pot element will open up 
where the wiper has been sitting for a while, and the circuit will 
operate as long as the wiper is "bridging" the break. 


From what you wrote, I'd suspect a problem with R5 and/or its connections.

I'd suggest carefully examining the Bias supply wiring, and then with a 
meter across the output while disconnected from the TR-4 push and prod 
the connections and components will an insulated stick.  Again, be aware 
that there are serious, dangerous voltages floating around in there any 
time the power supply is on.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Thomas Wright wrote:
Maybe you guys can direct me a little.  My AC3 has been showing signs 
of bad caps, especially in the bias section ( one of the bias caps 
measured at 700MFD).  I replaced all the caps in all sections, using 
33MFD 160 volt caps in the bias section, and while I was there did the 
diodes.  After reassembly the bias was adjustable from 41 or so to 80 
volts.  TR-4C was running well.  Today after operating for an hour or 
so, the transmitter started to show very high plate current, so I 
checked the bias and found that it was either zero or above .4 amps, 
without much adjustment between the two, and of course when higher the 
xmit relay was engaging.  Reducing xmit gain would not reduce the 
plate current.  I measured the voltage at the plug and the bias is now 
only adjustable from 52 to 94 volts, which I think is too high.  
There's not much else to replace in the AC3 except the bias pot and 
two resistors, both of which measure within tolerance statically.  Any 
thoughts?



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007 8:32 PM
  


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[drakelist] AC3 Bias

[Thomas Wright]

Maybe you guys can direct me a little.  My AC3 has been showing signs of bad 
caps, especially in the bias section ( one of the bias caps measured at 
700MFD).  I replaced all the caps in all sections, using 33MFD 160 volt caps in 
the bias section, and while I was there did the diodes.  After reassembly the 
bias was adjustable from 41 or so to 80 volts.  TR-4C was running well.  Today 
after operating for an hour or so, the transmitter started to show very high 
plate current, so I checked the bias and found that it was either zero or above 
.4 amps, without much adjustment between the two, and of course when higher the 
xmit relay was engaging.  Reducing xmit gain would not reduce the plate 
current.  I measured the voltage at the plug and the bias is now only 
adjustable from 52 to 94 volts, which I think is too high.  There's not much 
else to replace in the AC3 except the bias pot and two resistors, both of which 
measure within tolerance statically.  Any thoughts?

Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howard -

Don't forget that the R-4 receivers will only "mute" if the FUNCTION 
switch is in EXT. MUTE, NB or CAL positions.  The ON position defeats 
external muting, keeping the receiver on regardless of EXT. MUTE function.


Switch the receiver to ON, and turning down the XMTR GAIN will minimize 
transmitting a signal as you "swoop" in.  On CW, you can just flip the 
SIDEBAND switch to the non-X position.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Howard Traxler wrote:

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Garey, someone here has already helped me get the R-4A hooked up as a 
second receiver although I couldn't get it to mute.  I'll try that again. 
And then, is there a way to "spot" the frequency or do I just turn down the 
drive, unmute the rcvr and tune it in?


Thanks again.
73, de Howard, WA9RYF

  


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Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[Howard Traxler]

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Garey, someone here has already helped me get the R-4A hooked up as a 
second receiver although I couldn't get it to mute.  I'll try that again. 
And then, is there a way to "spot" the frequency or do I just turn down the 
drive, unmute the rcvr and tune it in?

Thanks again.
73, de Howard, WA9RYF
- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C


:
: Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
: --
: Howard -
:
: The crystal filters were FAR more expensive than the L-C filter bank in
: the Passband Tuner, and so were made optional in the interest of price
: point.  A large percentage of the R-4C's sold had a 500 Hz filter
: purchased at the time, but it was a different time...
:
: While all of the 4 Series Twins will mix and match in transceive, the TR
: Series uses a different IF and is NOT able to transceive with any other
: series.  There was an RV-4(C) external VFO, speaker and power supply
: cabinet that was popular before the RIT version of the TR-4 came out.
: You CAN however connect any of the R-4 Series receivers as a "second"
: receiver to the TR-4(C), which has antenna switching and muting
: provisions for it.
:
: The TR-3/4 was originally offered as a mobile transceiver, which at the
: time was the primary reason anyone bought a transceiver instead of the
: twins.  Again, most mobile operation was SSB and so CW was included
: "just because".  The TR-4 was a terrific mobile transceiver for it's
: day, but transceivers were never really intended for CW operation, and
: were really inferior until at least RIT became available.
:
: 73, Garey - K4OAH
: Glen Allen, VA
:
: Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
: 
:
:
:
: Howard Traxler wrote:
: > "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
: > --
: > Thanks Garey, I read that when you first posted it; but I guess I didn't
: > understand it, the part about the filters anyway.  Guess I'll put the 
R-4C
: > back on the bench and do some listening.  Is there a way to make it (or 
the
: > R-4A tranceive with the TR-4?  I don't know which model of the tR-4 I 
have
: > but it works just fine except the receiver is too wide for me on SSB and 
too
: > narrow on AM.
: >
: > Thanks again.
: >
: > 73, de Howard, WA9RYF
: >
: >
:
: --
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: --
:
:
: -- 
: No virus found in this incoming message.
: Checked by AVG Free Edition.
: Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.11/1161 - Release Date: 
11/30/2007 12:12 PM
:
: 


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Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[EP Swynar]

"EP Swynar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Garey,

Many thanks...!

I am now definitely gonna get those Twins here...! (a sort of a
self-anointed Christmas gift, Hi Hi).

~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ


**


- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C


>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
gang
> --
> Eddy -
>
> ALL of the T-4X(any) included 160 M coverage.  The  _crystal_
> (12.6MHz), was NOT included.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> EP Swynar wrote:
> > "EP Swynar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> > --
> > Hi Garey,
> >
> > In the matter of the TRANSMITTER half of the classic "Drake Twins" over
the
> > years, did the T-4 --- and all of its different versions / generations
over
> > the years --- always include 160-meters...? Or was that band deleted at
some
> > point in time...?
> >
> > I have my sites presently set on what I THINK is the early EARLY version
of
> > the Twins, and 160-meters is an absolute MUST HAVE for me here...
> >
> > Many thanks in advance for your guidance & counsel...!
> >
> > ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
> >
> > *
> >
> >
>
> --
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Re: [drakelist] T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Doug -

First step is to put the 160M crystal back in the receiver, and check 
the operation in transceive with receiver control.  If this results in 
the same failure, you have just eliminated all of the circuitry 
associated with the Band Oscillator, PTO and Premixer stages in the 
transmitter.


There are very few components peculiar to 160M.

Each of these components has an associated bandswitch contact, and while 
it doesn't appear to be related to the switch contact itself, it IS 
quite possible to be a "cold" or "rosin" solder joint on the switch contact.


C36, C37 and T1

C53, C54 and T9

Less likely ...

C86 and C193

C89

C45

So my process would be to physically examine each of these components 
and their associated switch contacts for solder integrity.  Cold spray 
might expose a bad connection, but it's probably not a bad component.  
T1 and T9 are small solenoidal coils mounted right on the bandswitch 
contacts.


Putting on my Swami hat, I'm gonna guess T9 solder is the culprit.!   
This is based partly on the fact that it's probably the most difficult 
item on the list to access, but also that if this connection goes open, 
it removes the plate voltage from the 12BY7 driver stage.


Let us know!!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Doug Smith wrote:

Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Thu, 2007-11-29 at 20:08 -0700, Doug Smith wrote:
  

Doug Smith made an utterance to the drakelist gang
I'm going to try moving it to the T-4XC to see if that makes a difference.



OK, I've put the 160 meter crystal in the T-4XC and I'm seeing the same
results as when it was in the R-4C.  No output (well, about 1 watt) on
transmit but excellent reception.  I tested with the TRANSCEIVE switch
in both XMTR and SEPARATE modes and got the same symptoms.

Switching the crystal to the T-4XC eliminates the receiver as a possible
problem.  And the problem does only occur as the transmitter warms up.
I get normal operation on all other bands so I can't believe it's a
tube.  And, the crystal is oscillating since I receive good signals on
160. 


I've put the T-4XC on the bench and put my 'scope on pin 2 (grid) of the
6EJ7 premix tube and temporarily grounded pin 3 (cathode).  I see -0.93
VDC with any crystal (including the 160 meter crystal) and -1.04 VDC
with the VFO.  I'm thinking the crystal is OK.

The symptoms are normal power output on 160 for a minute or two after
initial turn-on, then power output drops off to near 0 watts and does
not return until the rig has been allowed to go completely cold.
Operation on all other bands is normal.

I'm stumped...

73,
-Doug, W7KF

  


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Re: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM

[Carey Lockhart]

upper side does not quit working after warmup. i will try the freeze spray.
thanks guys

carey

On Nov 30, 2007 7:46 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Almost sounds like a heat/pressure related problem with respect to the LSB
> filter.  Perhaps trying USB will add more data?
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Carey Lockhart, kc5gtt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 6:43 pm
> Subject: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM
>
>   i have a t4-xb that is giving me a problem. the audio is very narrow. no
> matter which mic i use it is very pinched up. once it warms up lsb quits. i
> can tweak the band switch bracket and it will start transmitting again. any
> sugestions?
>
> carey
>  --
> More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL 
> Mail
> !
>

Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howard -

The crystal filters were FAR more expensive than the L-C filter bank in 
the Passband Tuner, and so were made optional in the interest of price 
point.  A large percentage of the R-4C's sold had a 500 Hz filter 
purchased at the time, but it was a different time...


While all of the 4 Series Twins will mix and match in transceive, the TR 
Series uses a different IF and is NOT able to transceive with any other 
series.  There was an RV-4(C) external VFO, speaker and power supply 
cabinet that was popular before the RIT version of the TR-4 came out.  
You CAN however connect any of the R-4 Series receivers as a "second" 
receiver to the TR-4(C), which has antenna switching and muting 
provisions for it.


The TR-3/4 was originally offered as a mobile transceiver, which at the 
time was the primary reason anyone bought a transceiver instead of the 
twins.  Again, most mobile operation was SSB and so CW was included 
"just because".  The TR-4 was a terrific mobile transceiver for it's 
day, but transceivers were never really intended for CW operation, and 
were really inferior until at least RIT became available.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Howard Traxler wrote:

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Garey, I read that when you first posted it; but I guess I didn't 
understand it, the part about the filters anyway.  Guess I'll put the R-4C 
back on the bench and do some listening.  Is there a way to make it (or the 
R-4A tranceive with the TR-4?  I don't know which model of the tR-4 I have 
but it works just fine except the receiver is too wide for me on SSB and too 
narrow on AM.


Thanks again.

73, de Howard, WA9RYF

  


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Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Eddy -

ALL of the T-4X(any) included 160 M coverage.  The  _crystal_  
(12.6MHz), was NOT included.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




EP Swynar wrote:

"EP Swynar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Garey,

In the matter of the TRANSMITTER half of the classic "Drake Twins" over the
years, did the T-4 --- and all of its different versions / generations over
the years --- always include 160-meters...? Or was that band deleted at some
point in time...?

I have my sites presently set on what I THINK is the early EARLY version of
the Twins, and 160-meters is an absolute MUST HAVE for me here...

Many thanks in advance for your guidance & counsel...!

~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

*
  
  


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Re: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM

[Jim F.]

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--


I would try to find some 'freeze spray' and hit
various components with it to see which one brings it
back to life.

My guess is a cracked carbon resistor at the
bandswitch.

jim / W1FMR


--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Almost sounds like a heat/pressure related problem
> with respect to the LSB filter.? Perhaps trying USB
> will add more data?
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Carey Lockhart, kc5gtt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 6:43 pm
> Subject: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM
> 
> 
> 
> i have a t4-xb that is giving me a problem. the
> audio is very narrow. no matter which mic i use it
> is very pinched up. once it warms up lsb quits. i
> can tweak the band switch bracket and it will start
> transmitting again. any sugestions?
> 
> ?
> 
> carey
> 
> 
>

> More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL
> Mail ! -
>
http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp000503
> 


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Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[k9sqg]

Howard (et. al.),




Well, it depends.? A lot of folks think that Drake switched from "free filters" 
to "optional cost filters" when going to the R4C.? Partially true, but the 
details need to be examined.? The R4B used LC filters for selectivity and, with 
very broad skirts, they sounded very good because of the soft edges of the LC 
circuits.? The R4C used optional crystal filters and thus had steeper skirts so 
it tended to make things sound "harsher" but, for raw performance under QRM 
conditions, outperformed the R4B.? So you have to decide between comfort and 
performance, comm vs SWL, etc.



73,



Evan


-Original Message-
From: Howard Traxler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 8:48 pm
Subject: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C





"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
--
Hi again all.  Here's a question that will require, probably a subjective 
answer:

For about 30 years, I used an R-4A and loved it.  I now aquired an 
R-4C--without any of those plug-in filters.  I don't like it much at all. 
So I got another R-4A and was hoping to tweak it up to be like the one I 
used to have.

Question:  Why did I not need those filters in the R-4A and will I like the 
R-4C more if I get the filters for it?  Which receiver should I put my 
effort into?  I like to work both SSB and CW.

Thoughts anyone?  Thank you much.

73, DE Howard, WA9RYF
- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 7:31 PM
Subject: [drakelist] T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...


:
: Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
: --
: Here's an odd one..
:
: I just flipped on the rig and tuned up on 160.  Everything went well,
: and I tuned up to 100 watts out as I normally do.  Then, while waiting
: for the 3-500s to warm up I switched in the antenna to touch up the
: antenna coupler.  And, as I was sending a string of dits the output
: faded to near zero watts.
:
: I shifted to 80 meters and tuned up -- 100 watts out, no problem.  Back
: to 160.  No power output...
:
: Turned the rig off and came back 15 minutes later and tried again.  I
: warmed up the T-4XC for a minute, hit the key and had 100 watts out on
: 160.  So, I let it sit for 5 minutes and tried again -- no power out.
:
: It *seems* like as the rig warms up the power fades to zero (on 160
: only).  All other bands are fine.
:
: Any ideas?
:
: 73,
: -Doug, W7KF
:
:
:
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Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[Howard Traxler]

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Garey, I read that when you first posted it; but I guess I didn't 
understand it, the part about the filters anyway.  Guess I'll put the R-4C 
back on the bench and do some listening.  Is there a way to make it (or the 
R-4A tranceive with the TR-4?  I don't know which model of the tR-4 I have 
but it works just fine except the receiver is too wide for me on SSB and too 
narrow on AM.

Thanks again.

73, de Howard, WA9RYF
- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C


:
: Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
: --
: Howard -
:
: Here's an extract from an earlier post I made about the R-4 series
: receivers.
:
: The R-4 is almost a 2-B, just with a linear PTO and 1 kHz dial
: calibration.  All tubes.  Very similar in operation, and will
: transceive with the matching T-4X for an excellent CW station.  Four
: filter bandwidths, (400, 1200, 2400 and 4800 Hz,) passband tuning, noise
: blanker, LC notch and 100 kHz crystal calibrator built in.
:
: The R-4A (early 13 tube model) is an improved R-4, almost identical
: specifications.  PTO and Band Oscillators converted to solid state.
:
: The R-4A (late 11 tube model) almost identical specifications.  Product
: detector, BFO, AGC and low level audio stages converted to solid state.
:
: The R-4B (early) is very similar to the late R-4A, minor modifications
: and crystal calibrator multivibrator for 25 kHz markers.
:
: The R-4B (late) almost identical except PTO changed from bipolar to FET.
:
: The R-4C (early) very similar, except IF filters changed to crystal
: filters.  Only the 2.3 kHz filter is standard, 250, 500, 1800, 4000 and
: 6000 Hz BW are available as options.  The 4000 & 6000 Hz filters are
: normally installed in a special socket under the chassis and are
: effective on AM only.  Four position filter switch.  The noise blanker
: was optional.  Entire audio chain solid state, tubes used only from RF
: to IF, all other stages and oscillators solid state.
:
: The R-4C (late) same.  Five position filter switch.
:
: The 2-B through the R-4B used L-C filters in the IF.  This type of
: filter has much gentler slopes, which means that nearby signals are
: still heard, just at reduced levels.   The crystal filters are steep
: sided, more like the crystal filters in today's receivers.
: Personally, I prefer the L-C filters for all except heavy duty contest
: use.  I like to hear what is going on around my frequency, instead of
: "listening with blinders on"...
:
: The T-4 series transmitters are all pretty much the same, the T-4X had 4
: pole crystal filters while the T-4XB and C had 8 pole filters.  The
: later ones therefore had slightly better carrier and unwanted sideband
: suppression, neither of which has ANY effect on CW operation.
: ANY 4 series receiver will transceive with ANY 4 series transmitter, mix
: and match.  There are minor things like the B line had a neon indicator
: light under the dial to show which PTO was controlling in transceive
: while the C line just turned the dial lamps on or off.  The R-4 and R-4A
: had neither, so you had to look at the switch!
:
: My opinion.  The R-4B is probably the best receiver overall.  It has
: great audio, smooth AGC, all the filters and noise blanker are built
: in.  The L-C filters are not quite as "drop off the table" selective,
: but I prefer that for casual QSOs.
:
: The R-4C has poorer audio, a little harsher, the "better" (?) crystal
: filters are extra, and the noise blanker is extra.
:
: The R-4 and R-4A are just earlier iterations of the R-4B, and are not
: quite as refined, although some say they prefer the early R-4A to the
: R-4B because the tube type product detector in the R-4A is "cleaner".
:
: 73, Garey - K4OAH
: Glen Allen, VA
:
: Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
: 
:
:
:
: Howard Traxler wrote:
: > "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
: > --
: > Hi again all.  Here's a question that will require, probably a 
subjective
: > answer:
: >
: > For about 30 years, I used an R-4A and loved it.  I now aquired an
: > R-4C--without any of those plug-in filters.  I don't like it much at 
all.
: > So I got another R-4A and was hoping to tweak it up to be like the one I
: > used to have.
: >
: > Question:  Why did I not need those filters in the R-4A and will I like 
the
: > R-4C more if I get the filters for it?  Which receiver should I put my
: > effort into?  I like to work both SSB and CW.
: >
: > Thoughts anyone?  Thank you much.
: >
: > 73, DE Howard, WA9RYF
: >
: >
:
: --

Re: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM

[k9sqg]

Almost sounds like a heat/pressure related problem with respect to the LSB 
filter.? Perhaps trying USB will add more data?


-Original Message-
From: Carey Lockhart, kc5gtt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 6:43 pm
Subject: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM



i have a t4-xb that is giving me a problem. the audio is very narrow. no matter 
which mic i use it is very pinched up. once it warms up lsb quits. i can tweak 
the band switch bracket and it will start transmitting again. any sugestions?

?

carey



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[drakelist] Crystals and Crystal Filters

[Howard Traxler]

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi all,
Wondering if anyone here has any band crystals and/or crystal filters for 
the R-4C they're not using/ would like to part with?  Let me know how much. 
Thanks.

73, de Howard, WA9RYF 


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Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C

[EP Swynar]

"EP Swynar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Garey,

In the matter of the TRANSMITTER half of the classic "Drake Twins" over the
years, did the T-4 --- and all of its different versions / generations over
the years --- always include 160-meters...? Or was that band deleted at some
point in time...?

I have my sites presently set on what I THINK is the early EARLY version of
the Twins, and 160-meters is an absolute MUST HAVE for me here...

Many thanks in advance for your guidance & counsel...!

~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

*


- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] R-4A vs R-4C


>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
gang
> --
> Howard -
>
> Here's an extract from an earlier post I made about the R-4 series
> receivers.
>
> The R-4 is almost a 2-B, just with a linear PTO and 1 kHz dial
> calibration.  All tubes.  Very similar in operation, and will
> transceive with the matching T-4X for an excellent CW station.  Four
> filter bandwidths, (400, 1200, 2400 and 4800 Hz,) passband tuning, noise
> blanker, LC notch and 100 kHz crystal calibrator built in.
>
> The R-4A (early 13 tube model) is an improved R-4, almost identical
> specifications.  PTO and Band Oscillators converted to solid state.
>
> The R-4A (late 11 tube model) almost identical specifications.  Product
> detector, BFO, AGC and low level audio stages converted to solid state.
>
> The R-4B (early) is very similar to the late R-4A, minor modifications
> and crystal calibrator multivibrator for 25 kHz markers.
>
> The R-4B (late) almost identical except PTO changed from bipolar to FET.
>
> The R-4C (early) very similar, except IF filters changed to crystal
> filters.  Only the 2.3 kHz filter is standard, 250, 500, 1800, 4000 and
> 6000 Hz BW are available as options.  The 4000 & 6000 Hz filters are
> normally installed in a special socket under the chassis and are
> effective on AM only.  Four position filter switch.  The noise blanker
> was optional.  Entire audio chain solid state, tubes used only from RF
> to IF, all other stages and oscillators solid state.
>
> The R-4C (late) same.  Five position filter switch.
>
> The 2-B through the R-4B used L-C filters in the IF.  This type of
> filter has much gentler slopes, which means that nearby signals are
> still heard, just at reduced levels.   The crystal filters are steep
> sided, more like the crystal filters in today's receivers.
> Personally, I prefer the L-C filters for all except heavy duty contest
> use.  I like to hear what is going on around my frequency, instead of
> "listening with blinders on"...
>
> The T-4 series transmitters are all pretty much the same, the T-4X had 4
> pole crystal filters while the T-4XB and C had 8 pole filters.  The
> later ones therefore had slightly better carrier and unwanted sideband
> suppression, neither of which has ANY effect on CW operation.
> ANY 4 series receiver will transceive with ANY 4 series transmitter, mix
> and match.  There are minor things like the B line had a neon indicator
> light under the dial to show which PTO was controlling in transceive
> while the C line just turned the dial lamps on or off.  The R-4 and R-4A
> had neither, so you had to look at the switch!
>
> My opinion.  The R-4B is probably the best receiver overall.  It has
> great audio, smooth AGC, all the filters and noise blanker are built
> in.  The L-C filters are not quite as "drop off the table" selective,
> but I prefer that for casual QSOs.
>
> The R-4C has poorer audio, a little harsher, the "better" (?) crystal
> filters are extra, and the noise blanker is extra.
>
> The R-4 and R-4A are just earlier iterations of the R-4B, and are not
> quite as refined, although some say they prefer the early R-4A to the
> R-4B because the tube type product detector in the R-4A is "cleaner".
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Howard Traxler wrote:
> > "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
drakelist gang
> > --
> > Hi again all.  Here's a question that will require, probably a
subjective
> > answer:
> >
> > For about 30 years, I used an R-4A and loved it.  I now aquired an
> > R-4C--without any of those plug-in filters.  I don't like it much at
all.
> > So I got another R-4A and was hoping to tweak it up to be like the one I
> > used to have.
> >
> > Question:  Why did I not need those filters in the R-4A and will I like
the
> > R-4C more if I get the filters for it?  Which receiver should I put my
> > effort into?  I like to work both SSB and CW.
> >
> > Thoughts 

Re: [drakelist] T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[Doug Smith]

Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Thu, 2007-11-29 at 20:08 -0700, Doug Smith wrote:
> Doug Smith made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> I'm going to try moving it to the T-4XC to see if that makes a difference.

OK, I've put the 160 meter crystal in the T-4XC and I'm seeing the same
results as when it was in the R-4C.  No output (well, about 1 watt) on
transmit but excellent reception.  I tested with the TRANSCEIVE switch
in both XMTR and SEPARATE modes and got the same symptoms.

Switching the crystal to the T-4XC eliminates the receiver as a possible
problem.  And the problem does only occur as the transmitter warms up.
I get normal operation on all other bands so I can't believe it's a
tube.  And, the crystal is oscillating since I receive good signals on
160. 

I've put the T-4XC on the bench and put my 'scope on pin 2 (grid) of the
6EJ7 premix tube and temporarily grounded pin 3 (cathode).  I see -0.93
VDC with any crystal (including the 160 meter crystal) and -1.04 VDC
with the VFO.  I'm thinking the crystal is OK.

The symptoms are normal power output on 160 for a minute or two after
initial turn-on, then power output drops off to near 0 watts and does
not return until the rig has been allowed to go completely cold.
Operation on all other bands is normal.

I'm stumped...

73,
-Doug, W7KF



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