AW: [Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?

[Klaus Koppendorfer]

i have the same problems

OE6KYG

 


 

>>-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
>>Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Gesendet: Mittwoch, 30. März 2005 05:42
>>An: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?
>>
>> 
>>In a message dated 30/03/05 00:09:46 GMT Daylight Time, 
>>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>writes:
>>
>>One  thing I have noticed on the KX1 is that the shaft 
>>encoder is a tad flaky  ... sometimes I'll be tuning downward 
>>and the freq goes up one or two  numbers in the least 
>>significant position.  It sort of depends on how  you hold 
>>the knob.  A little pressure toward the top will increase the 
>> flakiness, toward the bottom will cure it.
>>
>>
>>
>>-
>> 
>>I had an Alinco DX70 for repair recently where the sub dial 
>>gave a very similar result. On this the parts of the shaft 
>>encoder are held together  with two split tabs. Over time 
>>these had slackened off slightly and allowed  the encoder to 
>>flex slightly. Was able to reduce the effect by mechanical  
>>tightning of these tabs, but the only full cure was to 
>>replace the encoder with  a new one. Possibly the KX1 has 
>>similar problems.
>> 
>>Bob, G3VVT
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>>

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[Elecraft] Components on RF board bottom

[BobConvers]

Thanks for all the suggestions for easing the three components onto the 
bottom of the   RF board.   I'm looking forward to receiving the replacement RF 
choke and giving it another shot - this time being VERY gentle on the leads.

--Bob, WO3E
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RE: [Elecraft] Alignment woes

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Walt,

If all is well on 10 meters, but bad on 12 meters, the Low Pass Filter is
very likely not the problem, you should look again at the bandpass filter,
then check the VFO frequency against the chart on the 'Schematic Key' page
of Appendix B - at the low end of the 12 meter band you should have a VFO
frequency of 19995 kHz (check using CAL FCTR with the probe in TP1).  Should
you find the frequency incorrect, take a long hard look at C74 (20 pf) and
its soldering.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Finally finishing up my K2 #4792 and ran into trouble on the very
> last two steps. When  I try to align 10 meters, I get proper
> output (2watts) but a fuzzy trace. I am using my scope to monitor
> the dummy load output. When I go to align 12 meters, I get very
> little output (.2 watts). I carefully checked (4 hours) all
> connections and proper components around the band-pass and
> low-pass filter areas with no faults found.
>
> Please help as I am going crazy trying to find this error. Thanks
> in advance for your assistance.
>
> Walt WA3GRQ
>


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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?

[G3VVT]

 
In a message dated 30/03/05 00:09:46 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

One  thing I have noticed on the KX1 is that the shaft encoder is a tad
flaky  ... sometimes I'll be tuning downward and the freq goes up one or
two  numbers in the least significant position.  It sort of depends on
how  you hold the knob.  A little pressure toward the top will increase
the  flakiness, toward the bottom will cure it.



-
 
I had an Alinco DX70 for repair recently where the sub dial gave a very  
similar result. On this the parts of the shaft encoder are held together  with 
two 
split tabs. Over time these had slackened off slightly and allowed  the 
encoder to flex slightly. Was able to reduce the effect by mechanical  
tightning of 
these tabs, but the only full cure was to replace the encoder with  a new 
one. Possibly the KX1 has similar problems.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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RE: [Elecraft] Help with Alignment Test - Collecter

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Alan,

Just look on the PC board silk screening - the C B E designators are printed
on th eboard for these transistors.  If you still have trouble turn to the
K2 Schematic Key sheet in Appendix B of the manual and you will find an
outline of the transistors to aid you in identifying the proper pin.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> On page 71 of the assembly manual - Resistance Checks I do not know what
> the collector and base of Q6/Q7 are. Any help will be sincerely
> appreciated. I know what/where Q6/Q7 are, but cannot find a definition of
> the parts to check for resistance to ground.
>
>
> Q7 Collector
> Q6 base
> Q7 base
>
>


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[Elecraft] Help with Alignment Test - Collecter

[Allan Bacon]

On page 71 of the assembly manual - Resistance Checks I do not know what 
the collector and base of Q6/Q7 are. Any help will be sincerely 
appreciated. I know what/where Q6/Q7 are, but cannot find a definition of 
the parts to check for resistance to ground.



Q7 Collector
Q6 base
Q7 base


Thanks in advance
73,
Al

KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ & WB3AAL L.H. Tour

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

I had a good time at Turtle Rock Lighthouse today. I also tried out my
new digital camera and it works great. Look for Ron, WB3AAL, and myself,
WA3WSJ, at Turkey Point Lighthouse ARLHS USA-857 on Thursday. This is a
unique light in that it had the last female light keeper in the US
there. In fact, for most of its existence it had female light keepers
and was given the name of the "lady's Light."  I have been given
permission to photograph the inside  of the light including the top
where the lens etc is located. This is a real treat and as such I will
hand out an 8.5" x 11" photo collage of the lighthouse with inside and
outside pictures of the light. So work WA3WSJ for this special Turkey
Point Lighthouse Collage!  If you work me and want a collage, just send
a qsl card to WA3WSJ - no SASE. PLEASE put Turkey Point or USA-857 on
the back of the envelope or on the qsl card.  We will have to hike to
the light through Elk Neck State Park in Maryland about a mile to get to
it. This means that I will take my Elecraft K2 and a medium sized
battery. I will run 10  watts of power SSB due to the battery
limitation. I will also operate cw at 5 watts. So look for me on 7.040,
14.060 and 21.060mhz too.   On Friday look for us at Concord Point
Lighthouse ARLHS USA-186. Hope to hear you from Turkey Point Lighthouse!

72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[Thom R. Lacosta]

On Tue, 29 Mar 2005, n2fq wrote:


Hello.

I'm a member of Navy Mars. We usually operate a tad outside the Ham Bands on 
80M and 40M.


Here is an invitation for Navy Mars. Check our url 
Replies are prompt and they are always looking for qualified candidates.

I'd be more than happy to answer any queries.


Apparently the Maryland Director doesn't understand that...he's the one that 
told me the K2 wouldn;t work.


Thom

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?

[Fred Jensen]

KX1 #897 has not had this problem yet nor has anything like this
developed with K2 #4398.  No one told me that QRP is highly addictive
(you'd think there would be a full disclosure law, no?), and my TS-850
is quite depressed since both my vanilla K2 and the KX1 get all the love
and attention.  Thus, the switches do get a workout.

One thing I have noticed on the KX1 is that the shaft encoder is a tad
flaky ... sometimes I'll be tuning downward and the freq goes up one or
two numbers in the least significant position.  It sort of depends on
how you hold the knob.  A little pressure toward the top will increase
the flakiness, toward the bottom will cure it.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

Ray Albers wrote:
> 
> While operating from BVI the little push-button Band/Speed switch on my KX-1 
> started acting flaky and would require several presses to function (and of 
> course since many functions are invoked by pressing two swtiches at once, 
> operation was very frustrating). I almost didn't make the 20 CW net cuz I had 
> so much trouble switching bands!
 

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RE: [Elecraft] Open Line Feeder

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Lee,

The impedance at the end of an open wire transmission line depends on the
line length and the antenna, If you know the antenna feedpoint impedance and
the transmission line length, a program like TLW (from ARRL) can predict the
impedance that must be matched at the tuner.

In many cases, a 1:1 balun (or no balun at all) will serve better than a 4:1
balun.  The impedance that has to be matched by the tuner will almost always
be something quite different than the characteristic impedance of the
transmission line.  Feedpoint values ranging from only a few ohms to a few
thousand are not unusual for a multiband antenna.

Yes, you can use your 4:1 balun, but if you have trouble matching the
antenna system on some bands, just take the balun out and feed the
transmission line directly, one wire to the coax connector center and the
other wire to the ground terminal.  The transmission line will still be
balanced as long as the antenna is being fed at its electrical center - the
fact that the current at the ends of the antenna must be zero will assure
that the feedline will be balanced.  You may check out LB Cebik's info on
multiband antennas too if you have doubts, he states it in a different
manner than I do, but the end result is the same - you don't really need a
balun in all cases and connecting directly to an unbalanced tuner will do no
harm especially in a portable situation.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
>
> Field Day is coming up and the K2 is going out.  I
> have the KAT100 as well...and I want to put up a 130
> foot dipole with that ladder line stuff.  Hey, its
> only for 24 hours.  To use the KAT100, I have a 4:1
> balun (a 4KW job).  Can I use that with the KAT100 and
> the open line feeder?  What are all you guys doing?
>
> Lee - K0WA
>
>
> Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it  - Lee Buller
>


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RE: [Elecraft] Navigating the Modification maze

[Sverre Holm]

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Beltran

The LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to Elecraft K2 Modifications is an excellent
resource for determining the mods that exist for the K2.  What I find
confusing however, is where some of the upgrades incorporate or include
other mods.  For example, I understand that the KPA-100 includes some of the
Revision B mods.  In short, I am more than a little confused in this regard.

I am planning on upgrading my K2, serial # 2359 [firmware 2.01H] with the
KPA-100 and KDSP2.  It has the KSB2 and also the KIO2 (which I understand is
superseded by some arrangement in the KPA-100).  At the same time, I would
like to install the Revision B and firmware upgrade, and perhaps the wider
SSB crystals.  


I realize that it has become hard to distinguish the various mods from each
other and their status vs serial numbers etc. That's why I have subdivided
the Mods page into pre- and post-rev B mods (serial no #3000). Also, the
various categories in the main list (K2, KSB2, KPA100, ...) start with the
mods that have been included in the K2/option at various serial numbers and
dates, and if possible the subsequent mods in the list are those that have
been designed by Elecraft. Probably this system is not quite consistent
throughout the lists, but it is the general guideline.

Regarding #2359 and KPA100: I have #2159 and just recently added the KPA100.
The KPA100 comes with all the required firmware upgrades so there is no need
to buy that separately, and the only rev B mods kit that is included is the
"10M BPF, VFO/ALC Mod Kit for the K2". I believe this is the only one that
is really required to run the KPA100 also, so all the other rev B upgrades
can be taken at your own pace, either before or after the KPA100.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[Stuart Rohre]

MARS has no better email than anyone else.  The request for application
could have fallen in the bit bucket and not gotten to MARS; or they might
have been short staffed as they often are at HQ.  MARS is pretty far down
the staffing priorities when it comes to the management of the program by
the military.  Always has been, even pre Vietnam war, when I was in MARS.

It is true, they have given up CW nets, and are moving toward digital forms
of communication.  It is also true the MARS fellows in volunteer
administration are probably pretty ignorant of the true value of QRP
especially with digital modulation.   A lot of them are ex service types
used to a kw or BC 610.  I personally would not ask them if I could use such
and such a rig.   After all, all they request is that you have a rig that
can meet their assigned modes and nets.  You can choose a configuration that
you believe meets the requirement.  If you can't make the nets, then you
find something that can.  For the present, they still have SSB, but they
also are involved in packet or other digital modes.  A kit rig could operate
with packet TNCs, and of course you could use an amplifier if needed.  The
best way to improve your station value to MARS is to have very good
antennas.  Now, at one time, there was talk of needing automatic link
establishment commercial transceivers, but that is pretty high dollar for an
all volunteer group.  Hopefully, that nonsense has gone away.

Since MARS is often a point to point service, that should be easily done.
Fixed wire beams, parasitic vertical arrays, rotatable beams, etc.,  are all
ways to satisfy their reliability requirement.  You will need an outdoor
antenna, and perhaps space for several antennas for the various nets.

The Fourth U. S. Army MARS Command Station used one beam and an assortment
of wire antennas to work the world with 100 watts.   For awhile, we did
enjoy the old Signal Corps hill location, with its fixed Rhombics, but had
to move to a more typical ham station location later.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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[Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?

[Ray Albers]

While operating from BVI the little push-button Band/Speed switch on my KX-1 
started acting flaky and would require several presses to function (and of 
course since many functions are invoked by pressing two swtiches at once, 
operation was very frustrating). I almost didn't make the 20 CW net cuz I had 
so much trouble switching bands!

Anyway, I sent e-mail to Elecraft on Thursday and the replacement switch came 
in Monday's mail - great service!!

But this is the second such switch that has failed on me (the other one was in 
the Menu/Edit position). Omron B3F is the marking on the switch. 

Has anyone else had troubles with these switches? I don't know if the K1 and/or 
K2 use same switches. Or, am I doing something wrong, e.g., being too 
heavy-handed pressing the switches (or changing bands too often ;-) ?) 

73 

Ray K2HYD  (KX-1 # 608).
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[Elecraft] K2 on MARS

[W2AGN]

I have used my old K2 (QRP Version) several times to check into NJ 
NAVMARCORMARS nets with excellent reports. I have been involved with MARS on 
and off since 1961. 
-- 
John W2AGN/NNN0FBB
http://w2agn.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[Fred Jensen]

Never been a personal MARS member, but I was OIC at AI8AB (Bien Hoa AB,
RVN) for part of 1966.  MARS was a pretty big deal then since it was
really the only means for troops to get any sort of personal
communications and messages home, there being no Internet, cell phones,
satellites, and the like, and mail took 4-6 weeks.  The Chief of AF Mars
managed to scrounge an incredible amount of equipment for us including
KWM-2A's, R-390's, Model 28's, and a 3KW TX we used for a full duplex
RTTY circuit to AK1AIR in Anchorage about 16 hrs a day.

With other base MARS stations, we used frequencies far removed from the
ham bands, but for the phone patches run by the West Coast hams, the
frequencies were only a few Kc above or below the ham bands.

MARS probably isn't very high on the DoD's "to-do" list these days, and
the response may depend on the degree of local activity.  I know some
units are quite active and others are fairly dormant.  

Just tried (dummy load!) and my K2 produces power outside the 20M band. 
I did not know it would.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

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Re: [Elecraft] Open Line Feeder

[k5jaz]

I use this same setup on a permanent basis. My doublets are 137' and fed with 
ladder line, tuned by the KAT100 on 80-10M. Works like a charm.
--
Regards,
Jim Brown, K5JAZ

 -- Original message --
From: Lee Buller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> Field Day is coming up and the K2 is going out.  I
> have the KAT100 as well...and I want to put up a 130
> foot dipole with that ladder line stuff.  Hey, its
> only for 24 hours.  To use the KAT100, I have a 4:1
> balun (a 4KW job).  Can I use that with the KAT100 and
> the open line feeder?  What are all you guys doing?
> 
> Lee - K0WA
> 
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RE: [Elecraft] Crystals

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Lee,

I don't believe there is an article on using the matched crystals.
Somewhere about SN 2600, Elecraft tightened the crystal spec with their
vendor to control the motional inductance parameter, resulting in crystals
better suited for filters.

Just replace the filter crystals and ground the variable IF crystals on both
sides near the bottom of the can - then do the CAL FIL process to line up
the filter passbands.  The double grounding is mentioned in the A to B mod
instructions.

You will usually find a great improvement by changing to the newer
crystals - but there are a few cases where the old crystals were good
performers too, it was ust the 'luck of the draw' and depended heavily on
the particular manufacturing batch.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I have gotten a hold of some matched crystals for both
>
> CW and SSB.  Where is the article of the information
> concerning what the matched crystals are suppose to
> do.  Also, what is the latest on grounding the crystal
> cans.  Any information would be interesting.
>
> Lee - K0WA
>


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[Elecraft] Open Line Feeder

[Lee Buller]

Field Day is coming up and the K2 is going out.  I
have the KAT100 as well...and I want to put up a 130
foot dipole with that ladder line stuff.  Hey, its
only for 24 hours.  To use the KAT100, I have a 4:1
balun (a 4KW job).  Can I use that with the KAT100 and
the open line feeder?  What are all you guys doing?

Lee - K0WA


Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it  - Lee Buller
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[Elecraft] Crystals

[Lee Buller]

I have gotten a hold of some matched crystals for both

CW and SSB.  Where is the article of the information
concerning what the matched crystals are suppose to
do.  Also, what is the latest on grounding the crystal
cans.  Any information would be interesting.

Lee - K0WA


Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it  - Lee Buller
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[Elecraft] Corrected T1 errata just posted

[wayne burdick]

We initially posted an incorrect version of the T1 Assembly Manual 
errata sheet. Please download the newest version, dated today (March 
29).


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Re: Case For The New T1

[wayne burdick]

On Mar 29, 2005, at 11:51 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This case gives
the T1 a nice protective cover for transporting, although you  will 
probably
want to remove the battery first since those little buttons are  easy 
to push

when closely covered


Hi Dave,

Minor point here: you shouldn't have to *remove* the T1's battery for 
transport, but instead just flip it around backwards. This takes just a 
couple of seconds because the clips are built into the box. (And in 
fact you can either flip it end to end or just rotate it so the 
terminals are backwards -- either will work, because the T1 has 
reverse-polarity protection.)


This is mentioned in the T1 Owner's Manual.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Case For The New T1

[DYARNES]

Hi All,
 
One of the first things I did after building the T1 was to look for  
something in which to store it.  Amazingly, I had something already that  seems 
to 
work very well.  It's a case originally intended for one of my  earlier Pocket 
PC's. My wife keeps that unit on her bedstand now, so it  isn't being used.  
 
This case (I am pretty sure it was after-market, and not included  
originally) is for the Compaq 3800 series, which are a bit larger than most of  
the ones 
now being sold.  Anyway, the T1 fits inside very nicely.   This case gives 
the T1 a nice protective cover for transporting, although you  will probably 
want to remove the battery first since those little buttons are  easy to push 
when closely covered.  I don't remember what I paid for it,  but it was 
probably 
only around $10 or so.  Cases intended for that  size of Pocket PC are 
probably a slow moving item now, and may well be  discounted.  I'll keep my 
eyes open 
when I'm out and about, but thought I  would mention the nice fit in case 
anyone else was wondering what to look  for.
 
Dave W7AQK
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[Elecraft] +++ K2/100 #4747 and #4749 alive +++

[Kurt Baumann]

Last weekend we finished our two K2/100's #4747 and #4749. Now the

equipment is runnung very good this week.

 

 

Options : SSB, DSP AND NB

 

All working very good. Many thanks to the Elecraft - Team! Great job.

 

OE1KBC & OE3NDA

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[NR5A]

Thats interesting about the Navy, I had just the opposite happen. They had
no problem with me being QRP. The reason I was interested in the Navy was
they have a lot of digital type operations. The area director or whatever
they are called even called me on the telephone and talked about an hour
about it. Guess it all depends on what area you are in. My health kinda went
to pot shortly after that and I did not join.

Jerry - NR5A
- Original Message - 
From: "Thom R. Lacosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ; "jay gutknecht" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies


> On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Thom & Jay,
> >
> > I know the feeling. Over 2 years ago I was interested in joining Army
MARS.so I Googled their web site, read the info and, as per their
instructions on the web site, I requested they send me an application for
membership...I'm still waiting. I wasn't even asking about using my K2
(which I want to keep in qrp version..I was willing to get a Yaecomwood
for MARS use.
>
> Oh NAVY MARS was a lot of help.their comment was that a QRP rig would
simply
> not work, and that I should avoid kits, since NAVY MARS was moving towards
> digital communications.
>
> And so, I await to hear from Air Force MARS.
>
>
> 73,Thom-k3hrn
> www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
> Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
> Elecraft Owners Database
> www.tlchost.net/  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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>


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[Elecraft] OT - stepper motor question

[Vic Rosenthal]

I just know someone here can help me!  Please reply off-reflector.

I recently had the opportunity to take apart a big old Ricoh copy machine.  I 
recovered all kinds of neat mechanical and electrical parts, inclucing bunches 
of solenoids, motors, etc.


One of the coolest is a motor marked 55SPM-25D5A AX050032 30V 6.5 [ohms symbol]. 
 Google gets nothing on either of these numbers.


It has 6 wires coming out of it.  On the basis of this, and the 'coggy' feel 
when I turn the shaft, I think that it is a permanent-magnet unipolar stepper motor.


I want to build a remotely tuned very QRO L-network antenna tuner (I already 
have a large rotary inductor and capacitor).  What I want to do is use this 
stepper to turn the capacitor to preset positions.  Once the capacitor is set, I 
will be able to drive the inductor with a simple geared motor and just tune for 
lowest SWR.


Reading material on stepper motor control systems has my head spinning!  Is 
there some kind of simple off-the-shelf controller that I can get that will do 
most of the work?  What I would REALLY like would be to just turn a local knob 
to adjust the capacitor (sort of like the way a selsyn acts), but there may be 
other approaches.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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RE: [Elecraft] Greetings!

[Harvey, Stephen P.]

Besides, you shouldn't overlook the fun of building with your son.  In 1978 my 
8-year-old son and I built one of the first computer kits, an 8080-based 
computer called NETRONIC.  It was just a bag of parts with mimeographed 
instructions on how to build it, and it used a TV for output.  We even had to 
build the keyboard.

My son enjoyed it as much as I did, and he became very good at soldering.  Now 
that he's 35, with other interests, I wish we could build a kit together again.

73 de NNØB

--Steve




-Original Message-
From: Kevin Rock [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 23:40
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Greetings!

By all means, if you have the capability, build the radio.  It is a lot of 
fun.  Then you'll want to build another option for it, and then still another.  
It is insidious but you will feel a bit depressed after finishing your first 
Elecraft kit.  However, remember you can use the rig for many years.  Unless 
you sell it to finance building a new one.  You will enjoy getting on the air 
with it.  It is a very nice radio.
The best part?  You built it yourself!  If something goes wrong (heaven
forbid) you can repair it with a cry for help to either the Reflector, Gary 
Surrency, or even Wayne or Eric.  All of these options are available.  These 
folks (and us folks too) will not let you fail.  Build it yourself unless your 
slave driver boss works you 24/7, if you can't see to the end of your soldering 
iron, or you were born with two left hands and tendency toward self-immolation. 
 Barring these disabilities you will regret not building it yourself.  Because 
one night you will find yourself checking in to the Elecraft CW Net and hearing 
the joy in folks' fists.  
These folks built their Elecraft rigs and are happily pounding brass in 
exultation.  Do you wish to feel left out of this chorus of joy?  Forbid the 
thought; build the rig and enjoy the happy state of flux, solder, and RF.
Sincerely,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS


On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:46:03 -0500, Stephen W. Kercel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Ron:
>
> Like you, I am taking a bit of time getting ready before I build a rig. 
> Preparation, including creating the workspace, collecting the tools 
> and so on, is no small task.
>
> Personally, I have never considered "hiring done" the construction of 
> an Elecraft rig. It looks to me like the greater half of the 
> experience of operating comes from building it with one's own hands.
>
> 73,
>
> Steve
> AA4AK
>
>
>
>
>
>
> At 10:06 PM 3/28/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>> Wow, I am quite impressed at the responses both on this reflector and 
>> direct.  I appreciate the info from builders for hire, as well as the 
>> encouragement to build it myself.  To answer many of your responses, 
>> I _am_ considering doing it myself, but it is a matter of time and 
>> motivation.  I have an 8 year old son, so spring, and the summer 
>> vacation season, are already booked.  I couldn't even start to learn 
>> until fall.  It could be possible to make the time available in 
>> October to get tools, set up a workstation, and begin.  (I would also 
>> have to get motivated to commit the hours).  I'm thinking it over, 
>> but also considering a builder.
>>
>> Thanks for all your responses!
>>
>> --Ron
>> KC0TLN
>>
>>
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>
>
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>




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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[Mike Morrow]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>...I wasn't even asking about using my K2 (which
> I want to keep in qrp version..I was willing to get 
> a Yaecomwood for MARS use.

Even there, you'd have to select the Yaecomwood rig carefully.

FWIW, the K2 does *not* come near meeting the NTIA frequency stability specs to 
which, say, the Civil Air Patrol (CAP) has committed, and to which MARS no 
doubt will eventually.  See the CAP's official HF equipment compliance list at:

https://ntc.cap.af.mil/comm/equipment/hf_equipment.cfm

The info on this web site is interesting.  Many Japanese amateur rigs meet NTIS 
specs if they have a TXCO reference oscillator (usually an expensive option) 
installed.  Even my 12 year old TS-50S!  But some rigs, like even most late 
model Yaesu gear, do not.

The K2 is quoted as having a 3 ppm frequency stability spec, but the NTIA limit 
is 0.67 ppm.  Also, CAP and many USAF MARS frequencies are near the K2 IF 
frequency.

The most common MARS/CAP rigs of 35 years ago, the Heathkit HW-18 and Collins 
KWM-2A (AN/FRC-93) also fail current specs by wide margin.

Thom wrote:

>Oh NAVY MARS was a lot of help.their comment was that a
>QRP rig would simply not work, and that I should avoid kits, 

IMHO, they have a good point.  The main thrust of current MARS activity is 
training for emergency communications.  Even if operation is planned using 
battery power, a 100-watt HF rig is essential unless one is mainly interested 
in casual "no-never-mind-if-it-doesn't-work" emergency communications.

>since NAVY MARS was moving towards digital communications.

That's the NTIA compliance spec coming down the pike!

>And so, I await to hear from Air Force MARS...

USAF MARS frequencies, unlike those of Army or USN/USMC MARS, will generally be 
well outside the ham bands.  Can the K2 function at a typical USAF MARS 
frequency of 4832 kHz?

Keep in mind that MARS or CAP or USCG Auxillary operation is not intended to be 
an extension of ham radio.  In fact, conducting MARS/CAP/USCG AUX business on 
ham bands is equivalent to conducting a business activity on the ham bands, and 
is forbidden by the FCC.  Many of our hobby rigs, for all their merits for ham 
operations, don't cut it for use outside the ham bands. 

I was a member of Navy/Marine Corps MARS from 1968 to 1981 (N0LTD), and Army 
MARS (AAT6UI) from 1981 to 1986.  During the Vietnam war we handled a lot of 
serviceman voice and written traffic, as well as recruit depot notifications.  
That sort of traffic is all pretty much a thing of the past, so the emergency 
communications game is about all that's left now.

There's a lot of good people on the MARS circuits.  However, I decided not to 
re-affiliate with any MARS system after the use of Morse in any capacity, even 
on training nets and in MARS repeater IDs, was **banned** in the 1990s.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] How Elecraft Manuals Come About...

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Dave, W7AQK wrote:
 
Only that the owner's manual refers to V 1.06 when discussing the Info
Report on page 7.  I assumed that perhaps they would use the latest firmware
version in the instructions, but that may be a stretch!  Anyway, no big
deal--just speculation on my part.
 
Very nice job on the manual Ron.  It certainly contained lots of very
appropriate warnings where errors could commonly occur.  It was also obvious
that someone very carefully documented potential problems in the building
process, like not soldering certain leads before an adjoining lead was also
ready to be soldered.  I particularly liked the thrice stated "get the right
LED lead in the right hole" warning!  You must have had me in mind when you
did that!  Anyway, it's a very thorough and well thought out construction
guide indeed.  Thanks for making it a heck of a lot easier for us klutzes!
 
--
 
Ha!  Ha! Wayne missed where he used ver 1.06 as an example of how the
firmware revision is reported. Yes, Wayne went to a 1.07 just before
production started. 
 
Thank you for the nice words about the assembly manual. This is the third
such manual I've written for Elecraft, and let me say that it is *not* the
product of my own fingers, but rather a very concerted team effort. At least
a dozen people had input into that assembly manual. 
 
It starts with the engineer, of course. In this case it was Wayne working
out the electrical and mechanical design, always thinking about the person
who will ultimately build the kit as well as use the finished unit.
Designing something others can build makes a project much, much bigger than
just making it work well! 
 
When the design is getting close to a final product, it's my turn to build
one. I get the schematic, notes the designer has made about tricky parts of
the build, and a box of parts. As I build the unit I take photos, make
drawings, document the steps and analyze the build process. Some engineers
who also do a lot of writing, like Wayne, also provide a lot of notes, which
makes my job go faster.
 
My goal is to get a complete assembly procedure together in time for the
field test. 
 
The field testers then get the manual and the field test "kits" of parts
that are close to what we plan to deliver to customers. They build their
units and comment on all aspects of the design, assembly procedure and
performance of the unit while the engineer and I take careful notes. I'm
constantly tweaking and revising the manual to correct any errors and to
make the process clearer each step of the way. The engineer is watching
closely for any design issues that need addressing. That's where emphasis on
certain issues, like making sure the LED's are installed correctly, are
identified and warnings included in the manual. 
 
Sometimes, when significant design changes occur, I do another build. I
think I built two KX1's and 3-1/2 XV transverters before the engineers and
field testers were happy with the product and I was happy with the manual.
All the time the manual is constantly being updated and corrected and
reviewed. 
 
Finally, then, the product shipments start and, as you've probably noticed,
I'm hovering around the reflector looking for comments about the assembly
procedure in case a mistake slipped by.
 
So the manual, like the whole design, is really a huge team effort. I'm
pleased to be a part of a great team who works together very well. 
 
And, by now, I'm sure that you've noticed that, as a customer taking the
time to make a comment, you've become a valuable member of that team as
well. From what I've seen, no Elecraft product is ever truly finished. Each
one is carefully scrutinized by users everywhere and feedback is taken very
seriously.
 
Whenever a design change or improvement is called for to ensure the device
works as advertised, it's made without hesitation thanks in large part to
the rest of the design team: all the Elecraft owners who ask questions and
offer feedback. 
 
Thanks Dave! 
 
Enjoy the T1!
 
Ron AC7AC 



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[Elecraft] Latest T1 Manuals on Download Page

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

We've just uploaded the latest T1 Manuals on the Manual Download page at 
http://www.elecraft.com. These should match the manuals we have been shipping 
with the kits. This also includes the latest errata for the T1 Assembly Manual.


73, Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[n2fq]

Hello.

I'm a member of Navy Mars. We usually operate a tad outside the Ham 
Bands on 80M and 40M.


Here is an invitation for Navy Mars. Check our url 
Replies are prompt and they are always looking for qualified candidates.

I'd be more than happy to answer any queries.

take care

Thom R. Lacosta wrote:


On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, jay gutknecht wrote:

Is there any modification to be done to operate the army mars 
frequencies?



Finally, after 8 months, Army MARS responds:

"If your Elecraft K2 transceiver frequency coverage can be opened up 
to transmit and receiver on ALL HF frequencies from 2 - 30 MHz, you 
will be able to join Army MARS."


So much for being a volunteer.



--

73
Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM 
San Jose, CA




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Re: [Elecraft] The Linus Special

[Brian Broggie]

I would like to assure all, the very latest version of the firmware as 
of today (03/29/05) is 1.07. 


How would I know?  I batch burned the chip you installed in your kit.

Brian Broggie - W6FVI
Elecraft Parts


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   

fine.  My firmware is v 1.07--looks like there has been an update since the  
manual was prepared.  The only construction question I have is why we are  
 


   


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[Elecraft] K2Z still available?

[Thomas Martin]

Hello,
I tried to download the K2Z.exe (which makes a dump of K2 settings to a  file
via the KIO2 interface) using the link given at the
elecraft.com "software" section.

But the link seems not to work/ the files seems not to be present.

Is K2Z still available and where may I download the file?

TNX, 73
Thomas, DF7TV

--
Thomas Martin, Stuttgart, Germany
http://www.qsl.net/df7tv
http://www.qslnet.de/member/df7tv


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Re: [Elecraft] AGC 8 volts? (Nope)

[Jim Harris]

http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ 
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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[Thom R. Lacosta]

On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Thom & Jay,

I know the feeling. Over 2 years ago I was interested in joining Army 
MARS.so I Googled their web site, read the info and, as per their 
instructions on the web site, I requested they send me an application for 
membership...I'm still waiting. I wasn't even asking about using my K2 
(which I want to keep in qrp version..I was willing to get a Yaecomwood for 
MARS use.


Oh NAVY MARS was a lot of help.their comment was that a QRP rig would simply 
not work, and that I should avoid kits, since NAVY MARS was moving towards 
digital communications.


And so, I await to hear from Air Force MARS.


73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
Elecraft Owners Database
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[Elecraft] Alignment woes

[whiester]

Finally finishing up my K2 #4792 and ran into trouble on the very last two 
steps. When  I try to align 10 meters, I get proper output (2watts) but a fuzzy 
trace. I am using my scope to monitor the dummy load output. When I go to align 
12 meters, I get very little output (.2 watts). I carefully checked (4 hours) 
all connections and proper components around the band-pass and low-pass filter 
areas with no faults found.

Please help as I am going crazy trying to find this error. Thanks in advance 
for your assistance.

Walt WA3GRQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Greetings!

[Larry Makoski]

Ron,

Build it yourself!  Just a suggestion; but you'd be missing a major part 
of the experience if you farmed it out. (no offense to the fine Hams who 
do build Elecraft rigs for others).  Just a personal story.  I have two 
kids, aged three and four; and I built my K2 when they were aged two and 
three.  I worked on it in the evenings after they were in bed.  I bought 
the kit in February of last year and started it in March.  Putting in 
maybe two hours a night when I got the chance, I finished the rig in 
July. Oh, yes, there were many distractions and evenings (and even 
weeks!) that I could not put in any time on it.  But, hey, it's not a 
race and you don't have to get it done in one weekend or a week.  
Patience and perserverence pay off; and you can build a K2 even with a 
busy schedule like mine!


73 es good luck!
Larry W2LJ

K2 #4090
K1 #1643 (see, I even found time to build another!)

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Re: [Elecraft] Should You Built It?

[David]

I would sell my k2 if I could get ten times what I have in it that way I
could buy a few more k2 to put in my project closet and work on one a year
till I had a k2 for every room of the house. just my thinking

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 9:12 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Should You Built It?


> Steve, Ron:
>
> To echo comments by Kevin and others, you really need to be involved in
the
> construction of your rig.
>
> In addition to the other benefits that have been pointed out, I can assure
> you that you will experience an intangible "bonding" to the radio that
will last
> forever.  It's kind of like raising a puppy.  Other radios will come and
go,
> but you'll find yourself unable to part with one you built.  No amount of
> money (well, it would take a lot!) can substitute for this feeling, which
is the
> REAL pride of ownership.
>
> 73, Jim K5HO
>
> 
>
> >>Message: 17
> Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 21:39:56 -0800
> From: Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Greetings!
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-15
>
> By all means, if you have the capability, build the radio.  It is a
lot
> of fun.  Then you'll want to build another option for it, and then still
> another.  It is insidious but you will feel a bit depressed after
> finishing your first Elecraft kit.  However, remember you can use the rig
> for many years.  Unless you sell it to finance building a new one.  You
> will enjoy getting on the air with it.  It is a very nice radio.
> The best part?  You built it yourself!  If something goes wrong
(heaven
> forbid) you can repair it with a cry for help to either the Reflector,
> Gary Surrency, or even Wayne or Eric.  All of these options are
> available.  These folks (and us folks too) will not let you fail.  Build
> it yourself unless your slave driver boss works you 24/7, if you can't see
> to the end of your soldering iron, or you were born with two left hands
> and tendency toward self-immolation.  Barring these disabilities you will
> regret not building it yourself.  Because one night you will find yourself
> checking in to the Elecraft CW Net and hearing the joy in folks' fists.
> These folks built their Elecraft rigs and are happily pounding brass in
> exultation.  Do you wish to feel left out of this chorus of joy?  Forbid
> the thought; build the rig and enjoy the happy state of flux, solder, and
> RF.
> Sincerely,
>Kevin.  KD5ONS
>
>
> On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:46:03 -0500, Stephen W. Kercel
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Ron:
> >
> > Like you, I am taking a bit of time getting ready before I build a rig.
> > Preparation, including creating the workspace, collecting the tools and
> > so on, is no small task.
> >
> > Personally, I have never considered "hiring done" the construction of an
> > Elecraft rig. It looks to me like the greater half of the experience of
> > operating comes from building it with one's own hands.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Steve
> > AA4AK
> >
> >
> > At 10:06 PM 3/28/2005 -0600, you wrote:
> >> Wow, I am quite impressed at the responses both on this reflector and
> >> direct.  I appreciate the info from builders for hire, as well as the
> >> encouragement to build it myself.  To answer many of your responses, I
> >> _am_
> >> considering doing it myself, but it is a matter of time and
> >> motivation.
>
> (remainder deleted to save bandwidth)
>
> >> --Ron
> >> KC0TLN
> >>
>
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[Elecraft] Should You Built It?

[We5f]

Steve, Ron:

To echo comments by Kevin and others, you really need to be involved in the 
construction of your rig.

In addition to the other benefits that have been pointed out, I can assure 
you that you will experience an intangible "bonding" to the radio that will 
last 
forever.  It's kind of like raising a puppy.  Other radios will come and go, 
but you'll find yourself unable to part with one you built.  No amount of 
money (well, it would take a lot!) can substitute for this feeling, which is 
the 
REAL pride of ownership.

73, Jim K5HO



>>Message: 17
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 21:39:56 -0800
From: Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Greetings!
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-15

By all means, if you have the capability, build the radio.  It is a lot 
of fun.  Then you'll want to build another option for it, and then still 
another.  It is insidious but you will feel a bit depressed after 
finishing your first Elecraft kit.  However, remember you can use the rig 
for many years.  Unless you sell it to finance building a new one.  You 
will enjoy getting on the air with it.  It is a very nice radio.
The best part?  You built it yourself!  If something goes wrong (heaven 
forbid) you can repair it with a cry for help to either the Reflector, 
Gary Surrency, or even Wayne or Eric.  All of these options are 
available.  These folks (and us folks too) will not let you fail.  Build 
it yourself unless your slave driver boss works you 24/7, if you can't see 
to the end of your soldering iron, or you were born with two left hands 
and tendency toward self-immolation.  Barring these disabilities you will 
regret not building it yourself.  Because one night you will find yourself 
checking in to the Elecraft CW Net and hearing the joy in folks' fists.  
These folks built their Elecraft rigs and are happily pounding brass in 
exultation.  Do you wish to feel left out of this chorus of joy?  Forbid 
the thought; build the rig and enjoy the happy state of flux, solder, and 
RF.
Sincerely,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS


On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:46:03 -0500, Stephen W. Kercel 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Ron:
>
> Like you, I am taking a bit of time getting ready before I build a rig. 
> Preparation, including creating the workspace, collecting the tools and 
> so on, is no small task.
>
> Personally, I have never considered "hiring done" the construction of an 
> Elecraft rig. It looks to me like the greater half of the experience of 
> operating comes from building it with one's own hands.
>
> 73,
>
> Steve
> AA4AK
>
>
> At 10:06 PM 3/28/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>> Wow, I am quite impressed at the responses both on this reflector and
>> direct.  I appreciate the info from builders for hire, as well as the
>> encouragement to build it myself.  To answer many of your responses, I 
>> _am_
>> considering doing it myself, but it is a matter of time and 
>> motivation.

(remainder deleted to save bandwidth)

>> --Ron
>> KC0TLN
>>

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FW: [Elecraft] Navigating the Modification maze

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

I received a suggestion that I add the information that if you are
contemplating the addition of the K60XV near the time of your K2 upgrade,
the updated firmware comes free with the K60XV (or any option that requires
a firmware upgrade), so you can save yourself $44 by ordering both the
upgrade parts and the K60XV.  Just let Lisa know that the firmware is needed
when ordering the option.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

Tom,

Actually the Elecraft 'spare parts and mods' order information is easier to
work with for what you want to do than the LA3ZA listing - I don't want to
diminish the usefullness of the LA3ZA listing, but it contains many 'special
purpose' mods and can be intimidating just by virtue of the sheer quantity
of mods listed.

My recommendation to any K2 owner with lower than SN 3000 is that you first
download the A to B instructions, then order and install all the parts
(kits) listed in that document - unless some are already installed, plus -
order the PLL Temperature stability mod and the Keying Waveshape mod - and
in addition, if you do not have 2 1N4148 diodes in your junkbox, order 2 of
those also.  Order and install the K2 firmware upgrade (you will need it
with the Keying Waveshape mod), and install the sidetone source change
indicated in the KPA100 and/or KIO2 instrucitions (even if you don't need
it).  Also if your SN is less than 2650, order a new set of crystals too
(filter width modification kits are also available if you desire a change).
Check the turns on T7 as you are doing the upgrades and if you have the very
old 13:3 ratio, change it to the newer 22:5 ratio.  The 2 diodes are to add
the 'Extremely Strong Signal Handling' change to your K2 (download the Rev F
K2 manual and look at page 59 column 1 to see how to install the diodes).
If your KPA100 is not the latest level, order the changes for that option
too (you can tell the level by the resistors - download the KPA100 manual to
compare with yours).

If you do all the above, you should end up with the electrical equivalent of
the newest K2 being shipped, and it will 'perform like a new one' - you will
not be disappointed.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> The LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to Elecraft K2 Modifications is an excellent
> resource for determining the mods that exist for the K2.  What I find
> confusing however, is where some of the upgrades incorporate or include
> other mods.  For example, I understand that the KPA-100 includes
> some of the
> Revision B mods.  In short, I am more than a little confused in
> this regard.
>
>
> I am planning on upgrading my K2, serial # 2359 [firmware 2.01H] with the
> KPA-100 and KDSP2.  It has the KSB2 and also the KIO2 (which I
> understand is
> superseded by some arrangement in the KPA-100).  At the same time, I would
> like to install the Revision B and firmware upgrade, and perhaps the wider
> SSB crystals.
>
> My question is whether there is someone on this list who has a similar
> vintage K2, and who is also planning on installing at least the
> KPA-100 and
> Revision B.  Perhaps someone has already studied the charts and
> information,
> and figured out exactly what must be installed.   If so, could you contact
> me?  I would like to develop a list of all the upgrades/mods and purchase
> them at one time.  Hopefully someone has done all this research,
> from which
> I can benefit.  Thanks in advance.  Tom W6EIJ
>


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Re: [Elecraft] AGC 8 volts? (Nope)

[Mike Markowski]

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:
> No, I do not believe the last digit on your measurement [...]

I didn't think so.  :-)  (But now you know where my earlier incorrectly
remembered number of 7.92 V came from.)

> my guess is: because your 8 volt rail is
> 0.12 volts low, you should initially set the AGC threshold so the voltage is
> about 0.06 volts lower than specified in the manual (set to 3.74 volts).

Thanks, Don, hearing it explained makes perfect sense.  Debugging on my
own in the midst of building, though, is difficult so I greatly
appreciate the pointers!

> I do recommend optimizing your AGC Threshold after you have the K2 up and
> running on all bands.  [...]  Further
> refinements/adjustments are possible, but I cannot go into all the details
> in a reasonable length reflector post.  [...]

When I get to this point in the build I'll probably bug, er, contact,
you off-list for the particulars if that's ok.  I'm sure once the
building becomes part of history I'll be glad to have an excuse to tweak
and otherwise mess around with the K2.  But for now, back to Step 2 in
the RF assembly.  Last night I finished installing the first armload of
resistors.  Tonight will probably be the similarly long list of
capacitors.  And then, oh no, on to winding some toroids.

Many thanks,
Mike  AB3AP
Avondale, PA

>>-Original Message-
>>
>>Thanks very much, Don, for your ideas.  My email had faulty numbers as a
>>result of a faulty (human!) memory.  I remeasured voltages just now at
>>Control Board locations you measured and got these results:
>>
>>   - U2 pin 5: maxes out at 3.792 Vif you believe that many
>>   significant figures.
>>
>>   - P1 pin 6: 1.2 mV
>>
>>   - U4 OUT:   7.88 V ... the culprit?
>>
>>I will disassemble and check my solder connections you mentioned.
>>
>>Thanks and 73,
>>Mike  AB3AP
>>Avondale, PA
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RE: [Elecraft] RS-232 interface question

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

When you remote the KPA100, you must provide a path for the internal K2
signals that are required for its operation, and the KIO2 does bring out
those signals - the KIO2 is more than an RS-232 interface and that is the
reason there are cautions that a standard RS-232 cable MUST NOT be connected
to the K2 or KPA100 (even though the connector is the same - bad things will
happen to your K2 or KPA100 if you should accidently connect it with a
RS-232 cable.

There are alternatives to installing the KIO2 (see
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html for details), but if you want
a connection to the computer, the KIO2 is your only alternative.

When you remote the KPA100, any connection to a computer must be directly
from the base K2 - the RS-232 signals in the KPA100 will not function with
the remote KPA100 configuration.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
>
> Hi folks.
> I'm planning on building the 100W kit for my K2, and the 100W
> ATU, both together in a remote enclosure. Do I, or do I not, need
> the KIO2 RS-232 Interface kit, given that both the amp and the
> ATU are remote? Offline replies OK, as this is probably an old question!!
> Ted WB3AVD
>


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[Elecraft] re: Army MARS

[Doc]

I think location has a deciding factor also. I received an application in 2
days via email and was given a callsign within 2 months...Unfortunately due
to operations in country I have not been able to participate.

 

Doc YI9RVT

As Suwayrah, Iraq

 

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Re: [Elecraft] RS-232 interface question

[David]

I have the setup that way and yes you will need the kio2 to make it all easy
to hook up it can be done with out it but you have to make a special cable
so it was easier to put the kio2 in and have it for when you go qrp and have
it for when you go qro.

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 7:27 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] RS-232 interface question


>
> Hi folks.
> I'm planning on building the 100W kit for my K2, and the 100W ATU, both
together in a remote enclosure. Do I, or do I not, need the KIO2 RS-232
Interface kit, given that both the amp and the ATU are remote? Offline
replies OK, as this is probably an old question!!
> Ted WB3AVD
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RE: [Elecraft] RS-232 interface question

[Chuck Gehring]

Please DONT Reply offline. I don't think I am the only one that would like
to hear some more discussion on this subject

Thanks
73 KI4DGH

Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 6:28 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] RS-232 interface question



Hi folks.
I'm planning on building the 100W kit for my K2, and the 100W ATU, both
together in a remote enclosure. Do I, or do I not, need the KIO2 RS-232
Interface kit, given that both the amp and the ATU are remote? Offline
replies OK, as this is probably an old question!!
Ted WB3AVD
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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[rckchp]

Thom & Jay,

I know the feeling. Over 2 years ago I was interested in joining Army 
MARS.so I Googled their web site, read the info and, as per their 
instructions on the web site, I requested they send me an application for 
membership...I'm still waiting. I wasn't even asking about using my K2 
(which I want to keep in qrp version..I was willing to get a Yaecomwood for 
MARS use.

Rich   K2CPE
K2 #1102

-- Original message -- 

> On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, jay gutknecht wrote: 
> 
> > Is there any modification to be done to operate the army mars frequencies? 
> 
> Finally, after 8 months, Army MARS responds: 
> 
> "If your Elecraft K2 transceiver frequency coverage can be opened up to 
> transmit 
> and receiver on ALL HF frequencies from 2 - 30 MHz, you will be able to join 
> Army MARS." 
> 
> So much for being a volunteer. 
> 
> 73,Thom-k3hrn 
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[Elecraft] RS-232 interface question

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi folks.
I'm planning on building the 100W kit for my K2, and the 100W ATU, both 
together in a remote enclosure. Do I, or do I not, need the KIO2 RS-232 
Interface kit, given that both the amp and the ATU are remote? Offline replies 
OK, as this is probably an old question!!
Ted WB3AVD
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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

[Thom R. Lacosta]

On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, jay gutknecht wrote:


Is there any modification to be done to operate the army mars frequencies?


Finally, after 8 months, Army MARS responds:

"If your Elecraft K2 transceiver frequency coverage can be opened up to transmit 
and receiver on ALL HF frequencies from 2 - 30 MHz, you will be able to join 
Army MARS."


So much for being a volunteer.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
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