Re: [Elecraft] Where are you at Dayton 2006?
Don't miss my booth... TelePost Inc., #517, right next door to MicroHam. I'll be showing a number of kits including my LP-100 and LP-300 wattmeters, and L-200 dummy load wattmeter... all capable of QRPp. I'll also be showing a DDS based Panadapter kit that was designed by a friend. It will be interfaced to my K2. It has excellent stability and dynamic range, a nifty graphic display and Windoze controller for the non-display version. I'll also bring some of it to Vendor's Night. 73, Larry N8LP www.telepostinc.com Hank Kohl K8DD wrote: RJD wrote: Well so far I picked out several booths/products: QRPKITS-PCVISE 246 247 MICROHAM 516 ELECRAFT 196 197 198 ARRL 232 233 234 PLUS? DIAMOND365 PEET BROS 151 KANGA US 041 042 Thanks to those who see this as a benefit to Dayton Hamvention. I am NOT involved with any of the KIT BUILDERS, AND/OR VENDORS! I just thought there is a easier to cover 3 days of Dayton. Dick, NJ9K Add MI QRP Club 242 QRP ARCI 241 G-QRP Club243 I am involved with MI QRP Club, QRP-ARCI and am a member of all three! 72 73 HankK8DD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
While reading a post by Stan, W5EWA and his experince with a problems on the 40 meter band with parasitic occilations, I realized that I was also having the same thing happening to my setup. When using the K2-100 with the KAT100 tuner on the 40 meter band it caused the tuner to act erratic on high power. It would work fine on the low power setting, and would work fine with tuned antennas cut for the band, but when using my 204 foot open wire center fed antenna the tuner would go nut's and cause the radio to reset. Also at times cause some of the presets in the K2 to change when it reset. I could bypass the KAT100, and using my home brew tuner the parasitic would not show up. Tom Hammond, N0SS offered a possible soultion for Stan, so I e-mailed Tom to see what help he could offer. Tom sent me a proposed modifcation to the KAP-100 amp. the required moving the RFC10 that's mounted on the SO-239 over so it is not covering the open slot on the PC board. The modifcation was easy to do and cured the problem in my setup. In my case the RFC was only moved about 1/8, which seemed rather insigficant at the time, but it sure made things work in my K2100 - KAP100 combo. Thanks Tom. Kurt K0ARO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
I also have experienced this problem on 3 different K2/100s. I had moved the my KAT100 a couple feet from the K2/100 which reduced the magnitude of the problem. Tuning on low power prevented the problem. After talking to Tom, n0ss, I moved RFC-10 further away from the RF connector (J2). I'm not sure exactly how far I moved it but is was probably 2 or 3 mm. I no longer have the problem. I have moved the KAT100 back beneath the K2/100 and now experience no problems tuning with high power on 40 meters. I have sent the info on this to the present owner of one of the other K2/100s that displayed this problem and will make this mod to the third one in 2 or 3 weeks when the local owner returns to town. After I get my hands on the local one, I'll put a note on the reflector about the results. I really don't know exactly what causes the problem or why moving that RFC a silly little millimeter or 2 corrects the problem, but it worked here! 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of walter renner Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:54 AM To: ElecraftList Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic While reading a post by Stan, W5EWA and his experince with a problems on the 40 meter band with parasitic occilations, I realized that I was also having the same thing happening to my setup. When using the K2-100 with the KAT100 tuner on the 40 meter band it caused the tuner to act erratic on high power. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 17 meters
I am wondering what the solution to my problem might be. I have a MFJ 989 tuner and it works fine except on 17 meters. I have the cross needles and they both shoot up to 12 0'clock and cannot get a resonant point. Some have told me I should shorten the coax. I am using a G5RV with 300 ohm twin lead and coax into the shack. I am having suspicions that it is the tuner. Any suggestions... Paul, KD3JF Glen Burnie, MD FM19qd (Map Grid Square) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
Kurt - I've had the same problem. I had assumed RF was getting into my setup on 40 meters. The KAT100 would not find a match and only one LED would light up at a time. It often caused the KDPS2 to disconnect requiring a shut off and on to get it back. Separating the KAT100 from the K2/100 by a couple of feet was a temporary fix. I'll give moving RFC10 a try. Did you move it back away from the back panel? Did you move it closer to T4 on the other side of the board? Did you need to readjust C1 for SWR null? 73 de K1ESE John Tom sent me a proposed modifcation to the KAP-100 amp. the required moving the RFC10 that's mounted on the SO-239 over so it is not covering the open slot on the PC board. The modifcation was easy to do and cured the problem in my setup. In my case the RFC was only moved about 1/8, which seemed rather insigficant at the time, but it sure made things work in my K2100 - KAP100 combo. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 17 meters
Paul, You should analyze the entire antenna system (tuner, feedline and antenna) as a first order of business. If you have an antenna analyzer, use it on the input of the tuner - tune for a low SWR and record the settings. If you don't have an antenna analyzer, borrow one and use it. Tune things once and record the proper tuner settings for each band (and each antenna if you have multiples) so you can easily return to those settings. Such an inability to achieve a match with an antenna system could also be because of some parasitic oscillation in the transmitter. If you cannot obtain an antenna analyzer, try using a different transmitter temporarily to check it out - if the tuner behaves the same for both transmitters, you can rule out the parasitic possibility and work on the antenna system. If you cannot achieve a match on any particular band (or bands), then yes, try changing the length of the feedline (it will alter the tuner settings for all bands) - this applies to any non-resonant antenna, not just a G5RV. You can either lengthen or shorten the feedline to achieve a better match. Change the length by about a quarter wavelength at the troublesome band as an initial trial - that will change a high impedance feedpoint to a low impedance. You did not say how long each segment of the feedline is, but my recommendation is to use 300 ohm (or 450 ohm or better yet open wire line) for almost the entire run - right to the tuner if possible. If you must use coax for part of the feedline, use a 1:1 current balun at the junction of the coax and parallel transmission line. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am wondering what the solution to my problem might be. I have a MFJ 989 tuner and it works fine except on 17 meters. I have the cross needles and they both shoot up to 12 0'clock and cannot get a resonant point. Some have told me I should shorten the coax. I am using a G5RV with 300 ohm twin lead and coax into the shack. I am having suspicions that it is the tuner. Any suggestions... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
Add me to the list of people experiencing the K2/KPA-100/KAT-100 40M high power reset problem. Since my KAT-100 is built into the base of my K2/100 I do not have the option of moving the KAT-100 farther from the K2/100. One observation I made back when I was trying to track the problem down was that it did NOT seem to happen when I ran on a 12V car battery on my desktop but DID happen when I used my Astron 20A switching supply. It was not a conclusive test but I'll try again next week. How many others who are experiencing this erratic 40M behavior (resets the K2 etc) are also using switching supplies? Anyone having problems with a K2/100 and KAT-100 combo ONLY on 40M please contact me off-list and I'll keep track of all those who are affected by this problem. One person is a fluke, two people is a coincidence, three people is a trend and four or more people is a problematic symptom that needs looking into. - Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: Ken K3IU [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:28 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic I also have experienced this problem on 3 different K2/100s. I had moved the my KAT100 a couple feet from the K2/100 which reduced the magnitude of the problem. Tuning on low power prevented the problem. After talking to Tom, n0ss, I moved RFC-10 further away from the RF connector (J2). I'm not sure exactly how far I moved it but is was probably 2 or 3 mm. I no longer have the problem. I have moved the KAT100 back beneath the K2/100 and now experience no problems tuning with high power on 40 meters. I have sent the info on this to the present owner of one of the other K2/100s that displayed this problem and will make this mod to the third one in 2 or 3 weeks when the local owner returns to town. After I get my hands on the local one, I'll put a note on the reflector about the results. I really don't know exactly what causes the problem or why moving that RFC a silly little millimeter or 2 corrects the problem, but it worked here! 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of walter renner Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:54 AM To: ElecraftList Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic While reading a post by Stan, W5EWA and his experince with a problems on the 40 meter band with parasitic occilations, I realized that I was also having the same thing happening to my setup. When using the K2-100 with the KAT100 tuner on the 40 meter band it caused the tuner to act erratic on high power. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
Tom, have you done the N0SS RFC-10 mod yet? Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Althoff Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:42 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic Add me to the list of people experiencing the K2/KPA-100/KAT-100 40M high power reset problem. Since my KAT-100 is built into the base of my K2/100 I do not have the option of moving the KAT-100 farther from the K2/100. One observation I made back when I was trying to track the problem down was that it did NOT seem to happen when I ran on a 12V car battery on my desktop but DID happen when I used my Astron 20A switching supply. It was not a conclusive test but I'll try again next week. How many others who are experiencing this erratic 40M behavior (resets the K2 etc) are also using switching supplies? Anyone having problems with a K2/100 and KAT-100 combo ONLY on 40M please contact me off-list and I'll keep track of all those who are affected by this problem. One person is a fluke, two people is a coincidence, three people is a trend and four or more people is a problematic symptom that needs looking into. - Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: Ken K3IU [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:28 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic I also have experienced this problem on 3 different K2/100s. I had moved the my KAT100 a couple feet from the K2/100 which reduced the magnitude of the problem. Tuning on low power prevented the problem. After talking to Tom, n0ss, I moved RFC-10 further away from the RF connector (J2). I'm not sure exactly how far I moved it but is was probably 2 or 3 mm. I no longer have the problem. I have moved the KAT100 back beneath the K2/100 and now experience no problems tuning with high power on 40 meters. I have sent the info on this to the present owner of one of the other K2/100s that displayed this problem and will make this mod to the third one in 2 or 3 weeks when the local owner returns to town. After I get my hands on the local one, I'll put a note on the reflector about the results. I really don't know exactly what causes the problem or why moving that RFC a silly little millimeter or 2 corrects the problem, but it worked here! 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of walter renner Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:54 AM To: ElecraftList Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic While reading a post by Stan, W5EWA and his experince with a problems on the 40 meter band with parasitic occilations, I realized that I was also having the same thing happening to my setup. When using the K2-100 with the KAT100 tuner on the 40 meter band it caused the tuner to act erratic on high power. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] interfacing with K2
I hope I have this correctly addressed as I do not send much mail to reflectors. I have the following equipment: Powerbook G4, Rigblaster Plus interface, K2 (SSB, Tuner, NB, KIO2, etc., but no high power) Question(s) -is anyone out there running a similar physical setup? -Successfully? -what program(s) do you use for digital modes? -is a Rigblaster necessary to run Mac programs? -if it is, do you run a USB/serial adapter to the serial port on the Rigblaster as well as the line from the computer USB port to the KIO2 port on the K2 by the special cable required for that interface? In other words, do we need two control cables? -how do you handle audio in and audio out? What is your cabling setup for this? I have spent a considerable time on this and seem to get confused. The light at the end of the tunnel may well be a train, not understanding. Part of the confusion is likely due to my PC sitting here eagerly awaiting my capitulation and my return to Windoze to run ham radio digital programs. Now you know how confused I am;-) 73 Slater VE5OA Wolseley, SK Canada K2 - 4519 p.s. I have also posted this on the Ham-Mac reflector, so if you are duplicated, please understand. tnx. 73 ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] interfacing with K2
Hi Slater, Question(s) -is anyone out there running a similar physical setup? -Successfully? 1. K2 with KIO2, KDSP2, KSB2, KNB2 2. Mac Mini OS X 10.4.6 3. Rigblaster Plus 4. Keyspan USB to dual serial port with Mac OS X drivers. (This is the one that works right. I suggest that you NOT substitute a USB-to-serial adaptor from another company. Be sure to get the Mac-specific dual serial port with driver disk. Keyspan also makes ports for PCs. (No affiliation with Keyspan. It's just the only I tried that works well.) -what program(s) do you use for digital modes? Cocoamodem 2.0 with CocoaPTT. I tried four of them and this one seemed to work best at least in my hands. Cocoamodem handles RTTY and PSK31 modes. CocoaPTT is a little program that sits on one of the Keyspan serial ports and asserts the DTR line whenever Cocoamodem wants to key the K2 (to begin ssending PSK31). I have CocoaPTT in my startup file so that it starts whenever the Mac is rebooted. Note that the Mac (mine at least) boots up with DTR asserted. You have to use The CocoaPTT control window to turn it off after you reboot, or you'll key the K2. You need to make a cable to go from CocoaPTT's serial port (DIN-8) to the serial jack on the RB+ (DB9S). Connect only the DTR pin and signal ground. Most everyone makes this cable by buying a Mac printer cable, cutting it in half and mounting a DB9P plug (from RS) on the cut end of one of the pieces. You should mark this cable clearly or even key it somehow to make certain that it is NEVER plugged into the KIO2. http://homepage.mac.com/chen/cocoaModemPage/index.html -is a Rigblaster necessary to run Mac programs? No, but since you've got one already it would be best to use it. It provides various isolation circuits that improved my PSK31 detection by comparison with straight cables. -how do you handle audio in and audio out? What is your cabling setup for this? I use a Griffin Technology iMIC USB sound card adapter which has bona fide line level input and outputs (more resistant to overdriving), thus allowing the Mac to send and receive line (1V) signals instead of mic level signals. Other things being equal this puts your audio signal at a much higher level than noise that gets picked up on the cables. The best reason for Using the iMIC is that you can give Cocoamodem it's own set of audio lines and reserve the internal audio lines for music or whatever. This goes a long way toward assuring that you don't inadvertently play Springsteen on 14.070 MHz. Just hook iMic audio out to RB+'s audio input and hook the K2's speaker jack to iMic audio input. I use a Y cable and an external speaker to listen to the K2's audio. If you do SSB, set the RB+'s jumpers up for a K2. Plug the RB+ mic plug into the K2 and plug your mic into the RB+. The RB+ provies automatic mic muting when it's keying the K2 After you're done, you have half a serial cable and a vacant serial port on the Keyspan adaptor that you can use to run MacLoggerDX from Dog Park software. It's a logging, QSL, contest, rig control, etc program supports the K2 and that is more than worth the $90 or so that it costs. No affiliation with the companies mentioned above. 73 Ken ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Lithium Polymer Batteries
I have four 3 cell series packs for sale. I've been using them in my R/C electric airplanes. I've upgraded to lighter, higher discharge packs for my planes and no longer use these. Heres the specifics: 3s 2200mah packs Manufacturer - Irate from http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com Nominal voltage 11.1 volts Rated for 8 to 10 c discharge rate or 17.6 to 22 amps Weight 5.1 ounces Dimensions 3.5 x 2.25 x .5 45 amp Power Pole connectors properly crimped on with a West Mountain Radio crimper I used these packs on a 6s2p (6 cells in series 2 in parallel) in my plane with a max discharge rate of 44 amps per my watt meter. I would get two 10 minute flights. I just tested them on my bench with a watt meter in line. I brought my motor up to a point of drawing 2.5 amps. The watt meter started at 30 watts, 12v and 2.5 amps. As the run time went on the voltage started to drop a little to 11.8 volts. I then placed two of the packs in parallel and the voltage held at 12v for some time. These packs would work very well with an Elecraft rig since the constant draw on the pack would not be 2.5 amps. THESE PACKS MUST BE CHARGED WITH AN APPROPRIATE LITHIUM CHARGER AND MONITORED DURING THE CHARGE PROCESS. I've never had a problem but inappropriate charging has caused fires. I normally charge and store my batteries in a fireproof documents box just for safety. The other thing to keep in mind is that each cell must not be allowed to drop below 3v or 9v per pack. If your interested in a light weight high current battery these may be the way to go. $25 per pack plus shipping. Rich - N5ZC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
Tom, I just passed your RFC-10 mod on to Brent, WB4X. I copied the list as well. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: Brent Sutphin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:27 AM To: Stan Rife Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic Stan, I am very interested in this mod. I sold my last KAT100 because of this problem. I would like to have another one if I can fix the reset problem. Do you have the info on the mod and if so please email it to me. I just searched Tom's website and did not see it. Thanks Brent WB4X - Original Message - From: Stan Rife [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 9:56 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic Tom, have you done the N0SS RFC-10 mod yet? Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Althoff Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:42 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic Add me to the list of people experiencing the K2/KPA-100/KAT-100 40M high power reset problem. Since my KAT-100 is built into the base of my K2/100 I do not have the option of moving the KAT-100 farther from the K2/100. One observation I made back when I was trying to track the problem down was that it did NOT seem to happen when I ran on a 12V car battery on my desktop but DID happen when I used my Astron 20A switching supply. It was not a conclusive test but I'll try again next week. How many others who are experiencing this erratic 40M behavior (resets the K2 etc) are also using switching supplies? Anyone having problems with a K2/100 and KAT-100 combo ONLY on 40M please contact me off-list and I'll keep track of all those who are affected by this problem. One person is a fluke, two people is a coincidence, three people is a trend and four or more people is a problematic symptom that needs looking into. - Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: Ken K3IU [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:28 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic I also have experienced this problem on 3 different K2/100s. I had moved the my KAT100 a couple feet from the K2/100 which reduced the magnitude of the problem. Tuning on low power prevented the problem. After talking to Tom, n0ss, I moved RFC-10 further away from the RF connector (J2). I'm not sure exactly how far I moved it but is was probably 2 or 3 mm. I no longer have the problem. I have moved the KAT100 back beneath the K2/100 and now experience no problems tuning with high power on 40 meters. I have sent the info on this to the present owner of one of the other K2/100s that displayed this problem and will make this mod to the third one in 2 or 3 weeks when the local owner returns to town. After I get my hands on the local one, I'll put a note on the reflector about the results. I really don't know exactly what causes the problem or why moving that RFC a silly little millimeter or 2 corrects the problem, but it worked here! 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of walter renner Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:54 AM To: ElecraftList Subject: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic While reading a post by Stan, W5EWA and his experince with a problems on the 40 meter band with parasitic occilations, I realized that I was also having the same thing happening to my setup. When using the K2-100 with the KAT100 tuner on the 40 meter band it caused the tuner to act erratic on high power. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Am I crazy?
Am I crazy? Well, if you ask my YL she'd emphatically say YES. But here's what I am debating: My only rig at the moment is a Ten-Tec Paragon which is a mighty fine HF Transceiver. I spend the majority of my time on 80, 40, and 20 phone. However, I am thinking about selling it to finance the purchase of a KX1 or a K1. My reasons for doing so, in order of importance to me, would be: 1 - Forcing myself to re-learn CW. I love CW but have never mastered it very well. In fact, after I learned just enough to pass my 5 WPM for my novice back in 1989, I have never really used it. but I still love the sound of CW and really admire those who can do it well Getting a CW only rig may help me finally start to take CW seriously and relearn it. Right now it is way too easy to tune up the band and hit the PTT. 2 - Portability. It seems I am rarely home these days and on the road somewhere. The YL and I are talking about doing more camping this year as well. Most of our camping trips will be to coastal areas. Operating doesn't get much better when you are near saltwater. Having a KX1 on hand everywhere I go would be awesome. 3 - Simplicity/Space Reduction. My base station with the rig, power supply, external ATU, etc. takes up quite a bit of space in our small house. The shack is currently in a corner of our master bedroom along with our home office. With an internal ATU and batteries, I could operate the KX1 or even a K1 from anywhere... even the picnic table outside or from in bed. heh. 4 - QRP - I do love the challenge and simplicity of equipment of QRP. I can turn the drive of the Paragon down to 10W but it doesn't feel the same as operating with simple equipment and I still lack the portablity. 5 - I have the itch to build something. So those are my main reasons. I'd keep the Paragon and just buy another rig but I don't have the extra cash at the moment. Am I crazy to essentially downgrade from a once top of the line rig to something simpler with less power out? But, then again, would it really be downgrading? I appreciate any comments and thanks for listening. 73, JT - W6FO - Canton, GA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question
Hi all, I am running a barefoot K2 with various options, including the auto-tuner and am getting ready to put up a new antenna. I've decided on a 40 meter dipole that I will feed with 450 ohm 'window' line. This will be my only antenna, at least for a while. I operate mostly on 40 meters (CW) but also a bit on 20 (psk31) and 15/10 (also CW) when they are open and hope to tune the 40 meter dipole to those bands with the auto-tuner. I am planning to run the 'window' line all the way into the shack to the K2 (which is about 5 or ten feet from the outside wall). My question is should I also use the BL1 at the K2 and will I have any trouble tuning to the other bands. I guess I don't understand what 4:1 means, in this case as I'll be using 450 ohm feedline to the K2. Thanks in advance for your comments. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] interfacing with K2
On May 14, 2006, at 9:56 AM, Slater Tubman wrote: I hope I have this correctly addressed as I do not send much mail to reflectors. I have the following equipment: Powerbook G4, Rigblaster Plus interface, K2 (SSB, Tuner, NB, KIO2, etc., but no high power) Question(s) -is anyone out there running a similar physical setup? Sorta. I have a K2/100 w SSB, NB, KAT100 and I use a 12 Powerbook G4 and a homebrew interface. -Successfully? Yes. -what program(s) do you use for digital modes? Cocoamodem! It rocks! Find it here: http://homepage.mac.com/chen -is a Rigblaster necessary to run Mac programs? You do have to have some sort of interface between the sound ports of the Mac and the K2. -if it is, do you run a USB/serial adapter to the serial port on the Rigblaster as well as the line from the computer USB port to the KIO2 port on the K2 by the special cable required for that interface? It isn't necessary, but may be desirable. I use CocoaPTT to trigger the rig, and this goes through the USB to a Keyspan serial adapter with a standard PC DB-9 connection. I have a simple interface between the DTR line of the serial adapter and the PTT for the K2. It's just a NPN transistor with a resistor in the base lead. Works great. In other words, do we need two control cables? I haven't run into this with Cocoamodem, but with some PC software I use. My homebrew interface that plugs into the DB-9 serial port on the PC has an extra DB-9 connector for plugging in the K2 as well, so I can get the serial interface into the PC as well. -how do you handle audio in and audio out? What is your cabling setup for this? I run a small diameter coax from the microphone jack to my adapter box. I use a two-conductor shielded cable for the headphone jack to the adapter box. The adapter has a couple of 25 ohm resistors that are used to load the audio output of the Mac. My adapter box is pretty simple. It consists of a 600:600 ohm transformer for the Mac headphone to rig microphone input, and a 1000:8 ohm transformer for the Mac microphone to rig headphone output. There's a couple of variable resistors in place so I can adjust the levels. I also have a stereo headphone jack coming off that I can listen to the K2 output, too. Part of the confusion is likely due to my PC sitting here eagerly awaiting my capitulation and my return to Windoze to run ham radio digital programs. I can use the same interface to hook up a Windoze laptop, too. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
I remember this problem from the early days of the KPA100, although not necessarily in connection with the KAT100. I believe there was a builder's alert issued about the RF choke location, but I was unable to find it on the Elecraft Web site. If the KPA100 is old enough that it does not have the side grounding clips and reconfigured shield, there is a modification kit at http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm called KPA100SHLDKT. This change was included in KPA100's shipped after June 2003, according to the parts list description. The reconfigured shield has a smaller gap near the SO239 and the RF choke which I believe was intended to fix this problem. Although I don't recall exactly, I think the suggestion in the original Builder's Alert was to mount the RF choke away from the hole in the shield and as close to the chassis as possible. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Any Suggestions on VOX Problem?
I have a K2/100 S/N 5417 pretty much loaded. I didn't build this radio and dont want extremely technical suggestions or answers, in other words and if possible I would love to have it kept to a very elementary level. I also refuse to unsolder one component after paying to have it built. I am almost all CW and although this radio has the SSB option I never even tried it till until just last night. The problem is: The VOX doesn't act anything like the manual says it should or any normal VOX acts. I am using a Heil headset mic and can get it to operate using the PTT but not VOX. When trying to use VOX the receiver mutes, the S meter pegs and I hear a low level hashing sound at which point I need to turn off the radio completely and power it back up because every function switch is unless acting like dummy switches doing nothing. Upon power up and if I then use PTT it works like it's supposed to. This does this on all bands and even into a dummy load so RF doesn't seem to be the problem although it sure acts like an RF problem. I do have the radio grounded, but maybe I should try it without a ground, maybe a RF loop? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Im just no longer into going down to the board level to fix things, been there done that, and especially since I am currently on disability because of a vision problem. This is my first time on this reflector, thanks much and thanks for being here. Curt/k3ey ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Am I crazy?
JT, Think about a bare bones K2 too. After honing your CW skills you can always load the K2 with SSB, etc. With a K2 there in no come down from the Paragon. The K2 will fill you itch to build for a while, and when you get the itch to build more, start adding modules. John k7up 2 k2's and a K1 At 09:43 AM 14/05/06, you wrote: Am I crazy? Well, if you ask my YL she'd emphatically say YES. But here's what I am debating: My only rig at the moment is a Ten-Tec Paragon which is a mighty fine HF Transceiver. I spend the majority of my time on 80, 40, and 20 phone. However, I am thinking about selling it to finance the purchase of a KX1 or a K1. My reasons for doing so, in order of importance to me, would be: 1 - Forcing myself to re-learn CW. I love CW but have never mastered it very well. In fact, after I learned just enough to pass my 5 WPM for my novice back in 1989, I have never really used it. but I still love the sound of CW and really admire those who can do it well Getting a CW only rig may help me finally start to take CW seriously and relearn it. Right now it is way too easy to tune up the band and hit the PTT. 2 - Portability. It seems I am rarely home these days and on the road somewhere. The YL and I are talking about doing more camping this year as well. Most of our camping trips will be to coastal areas. Operating doesn't get much better when you are near saltwater. Having a KX1 on hand everywhere I go would be awesome. 3 - Simplicity/Space Reduction. My base station with the rig, power supply, external ATU, etc. takes up quite a bit of space in our small house. The shack is currently in a corner of our master bedroom along with our home office. With an internal ATU and batteries, I could operate the KX1 or even a K1 from anywhere... even the picnic table outside or from in bed. heh. 4 - QRP - I do love the challenge and simplicity of equipment of QRP. I can turn the drive of the Paragon down to 10W but it doesn't feel the same as operating with simple equipment and I still lack the portablity. 5 - I have the itch to build something. So those are my main reasons. I'd keep the Paragon and just buy another rig but I don't have the extra cash at the moment. Am I crazy to essentially downgrade from a once top of the line rig to something simpler with less power out? But, then again, would it really be downgrading? I appreciate any comments and thanks for listening. 73, JT - W6FO - Canton, GA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 40M Parasitic Circumvention
Several folks have written, asking for the docs on eliminating the 40M parasitic in their KPA100. First - This problem is NOT present in all KPA100s (as least as far as I can tell), however, it is present in some of the amps. It will generally present itself as an instantaneous HI SWR indication, with an instantaneous reset of the K2 at the same time. SO far, the circumvention has been to move RFC10 (the RFC back at the SO-239 in the KPA100) further inward. A further description of (part of) the problem and the circumvention is now available at: http://www.n0ss.net/kpa100_40m_parasitic_circumvention.pdf I hope this helps some users. We now have some successful 'experience' reports from other users, about a dozen to date) which indicates that this small change seems to be effective. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: CW Speed (RE: [Elecraft] QSK Redux)
On May 9, 2006, at 2:01 PM, Sandy W5TVW wrote: I'd say a majority of the people working REAL high speed are doing it with keyboards and readers. (What's the point in that when there is PSK31 to do the same job?) Keyboards - definitely! It's the only way to consistently generate high-speed CW. Readers - definitely NOT. Most QRQ ops copy in their heads. They wouldn't lower themselves to use a reader. Back in the late 70's, when I was a Novice, and later a General, I was involved in the WV Novice Net. A couple of the net control guys were blind hams. They would call the net at 5 wpm, go through the traffic, close it, and then call each other on the 'net frequency -- at 40+ wpm! They both had CW keyboards (which were pretty new back then), and would converse quite a bit back and forth at these speeds. A few hams out there can skip along at 30-40 WPM but they are in the minority by far. Contesters don't count as they are locked into a set format and not much information is actually exchanged except for the required data. Most of the really, really good contesters I know can also copy conversationally QRQ CW. Me? I can do almost 30 wpm in a contest, but I'm back down below 24 for conversational CW. Really good high speed telegraphers are rather scarce. (I'm speaking of those using straight keys or bugs, or sideswiper keys). That's pretty much a dead art. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Am I crazy?
John wrote: JT, Think about a bare bones K2 too. I agree. In fact I would even think about a K2/100. For one thing, if you want to practice CW, you will need to have some good, long QSOs. It's harder to do this with QRP, although the 10-15 watts you will get from a basic K2 is better than the 3-4 watts from the KX1. I have taken my K2 on several camping trips and while it is not pocket-sized like the KX1, it is certainly acceptably small and light unless you are into serious backpacking. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic
John, I moved the RFC to the left viewed for the front of the PA board. I moved it very little, as it was almost exactly as that shown on the pictoral in the manaul. 73 Kurt K0ARO (I'll give moving RFC10 a try. Did you move it back away from the back panel? Did you move it closer to T4 on the other side of the board? Did you need to readjust C1 for SWR null?) 73 de K1ESE John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question
Tom WB2QDG wrote: I am running a barefoot K2 with various options, including the auto-tuner and am getting ready to put up a new antenna. I've decided on a 40 meter dipole that I will feed with 450 ohm 'window' line. This will be my only antenna, at least for a while. I operate mostly on 40 meters (CW) but also a bit on 20 (psk31) and 15/10 (also CW) when they are open and hope to tune the 40 meter dipole to those bands with the auto-tuner. I am planning to run the 'window' line all the way into the shack to the K2 (which is about 5 or ten feet from the outside wall). My question is should I also use the BL1 at the K2 and will I have any trouble tuning to the other bands. I guess I don't understand what 4:1 means, in this case as I'll be using 450 ohm feedline to the K2. The balun does two things: it provides an impedance transformation and it helps reduce common mode currents on the feedlines. You may find one or both of these functions useful, or neither of them may be needed. That is, you may not need a balun at all. First, the 4:1 is the impedance transformation ratio into a resistive load. For example if you had a folded dipole it'd show about 300 ohms at the center. A 4:1 balun there would provide a 75 ohm termination (300/4) for the rig. That is it would provide you with an SWR of about 1.5:1 at resonance. That holds true in general for such baluns, but not always, when you connect them to a non-resonant antenna system. The 4:1 ratio can be useful if your tuner can't find a match on some bands since the balun will change the impedance it sees. Your dipole would be 66 feet long if cut for 40 meters. The window line is a decent feedline when operating the feeder at a high SWR. On any frequency between 7 and 30 MHz, the SWR shouldn't exceed about 10:1 (if you tried using 50 ohm coax it'd probably exceed 50:1 on some bands). It's that lower SWR that makes the higher-impedance lines more efficient than coax and other low-impedance lines. Some folks will say that the antenna will be badly unbalanced if a balun is not used. That's the other function of the balun. It provides push-pull currents to the feedline and it prevents non push-pull currents from flowing through the balun. The non push-pull currents are called common mode currents - they are identical or common to both wires. It works like this. If, at some point along the feedline, there is a current of 1 amp of RF current flowing up one side of the feeder, with an ideal system there will be exactly 1 ampere flowing down the adjacent wire at that instant. Or if there is exactly +50 Volts RF to ground on one feeder, there'll be exactly -50 Volts RF on the opposite feeder at that instant. That's the ideal way for a balanced feedline to operate since those opposite and equal currents (or voltages) produce equal and opposite electric or magnetic fields that cancel each other out. At a short distance from the feedline the RF field produced by those opposing currents or voltages is zero. So no RF is radiated (or picked up) by the feedline - it all flows to the antenna. In the real world that is seldom, if ever, the case. First, the load at the far end of the feed line must also be balanced. You get pretty close feeding your dipole in the center, but proximity effects of the two ends as they pass objects unbalances the system, so even with a balun there will be some unbalance. Most dedicated balun users would be astonished to see just how little the balun actually affects the balance of currents in the feedline, especially at the antenna end. The length of the feeder itself acts as a balun to ensure balanced currents at the feed point. Another thing your balun can do for you is to help isolate the antenna from rig for common mode currents. Your feedline is in a high RF field, since it runs right up to your antenna. Unless it comes away from a perfectly balanced dipole at exactly right angles, RF currents will be induced in the feed line by the strong field around the antenna. These currents flow along both wires simultaneously in addition to the RF currents flowing from the rig to the antenna. To these induced currents, your two feeders just look like one fat wire, so the same voltage and current will be present at all points along both wires; they are common mode. The balun only allows balanced or push pull currents to flow through it. So it will isolate your rig from these common mode currents. Sometimes that's important. For example, your feed line may be just the right length so the common mode currents produce a high RF voltage loop right at the rig. In that case your rig may tend to be hot with RF, producing bites when you touch it and perhaps erratic behavior caused by RF voltages getting into the circuits. The most immediate clue that you have a voltage loop at the rig is if your tuning changes when you touch things. If that happens you can try changing the length of the feedline, but
[Elecraft] K2-100 Parasitic - Success
With thanks to Tom Hammond N0SS for the fix and Kurt K0ARO for finding the problem,, my K2/100 is fixed. It no longer behaves badly. I moved RFC10 away from the coax connector. Before - http://users.adelphia.net/~hjohnc/05140011.JPG After - http://users.adelphia.net/~hjohnc/05140012.JPG Tom has documented the fix on his website. 73 de K1ESE John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question
Hi Tom, Go ahead and cut your dipole for 7.000Mhz. Feed it with 450 ohm ladder line. By all means, use the BL1 connected to the 450 ohm ladder line in the shack. Use a short coax jumper, 3 or 4 feet, between the BL1 and the K2 auto tuner. You're in business, 40m-10m. 73 gl, de Joe, aa4nn - Original Message - From: Tom McCulloch [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 12:17 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question Hi all, I am running a barefoot K2 with various options, including the auto-tuner and am getting ready to put up a new antenna. I've decided on a 40 meter dipole that I will feed with 450 ohm 'window' line. This will be my only antenna, at least for a while. I operate mostly on 40 meters (CW) but also a bit on 20 (psk31) and 15/10 (also CW) when they are open and hope to tune the 40 meter dipole to those bands with the auto-tuner. I am planning to run the 'window' line all the way into the shack to the K2 (which is about 5 or ten feet from the outside wall). My question is should I also use the BL1 at the K2 and will I have any trouble tuning to the other bands. I guess I don't understand what 4:1 means, in this case as I'll be using 450 ohm feedline to the K2. Thanks in advance for your comments. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Am I crazy?
JT, you are definitely crazy! :-) But not as crazy as I am; I have a K1, a KX1, and a K2 and, possibly judged crazy for different reasons than your YL holds... When I want a full function HF rig, with all the trimmings, I use my K2; it is really awesome (mine has everything but the 100 Watt amplifier); it is portable, can be built with battery built in, and so on, and it has an extremely fine receiver. One of the advantages is you can build it CW only, and if you miss the SSB, add it later, for a nominal charge. You can keep adding accessories too, such as the DSP, the 60M (after SSB, sine we are only allowed USB there), 160M, and so on. On the other hand, when I want to go hammock portable, there is no substitute or preferred rig over my KX1; it is more fun than I should be allowed, extremely portable, with the options, covers 80, 40, 30, and 20 Meters, has built in antenna tuner and batteries, and is amazingly tiny; the optional paddle works great for me, and with an adapter, the paddle clamps to the bail on the K2, and does double duty. Not to leave the K1 out; it is great fun too, more easily shared by virtue of its built in speaker, and fits somewhere between the K2 and the KX1 in my use. It offers some advantages over the KX1, from my view, primarily in the choice of bands, and mods to cover 160M and others available. In short order, I personally suspect that if you get any of them, you will lover them, and end up with all three (but only if you are as crazy as me, and some of the other listers are as well. I have other brand rigs, but none of the others offer the price / performance ratio or the price / fun ratio of my Elecraft rigs, and you will not fins better factory support, or list support with anything in my opinion. Good luck picking out your first Elecraft kit; I bet you will be back for more... 73 de Dave, W5SV JT Croteau wrote: Am I crazy? Well, if you ask my YL she'd emphatically say YES. But here's what I am debating: My only rig at the moment is a Ten-Tec Paragon which is a mighty fine HF Transceiver. I spend the majority of my time on 80, 40, and 20 phone. However, I am thinking about selling it to finance the purchase of a KX1 or a K1. My reasons for doing so, in order of importance to me, would be: ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 congradulations
Congrads on finishing the kx1 I will be FINISHING one after Dayton... Ken K1UM HOPE TO MEET MANY OF YOU THERE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question
Tom, In any antenna system where the feedline operates with an SWR other than 1:1, the transmission line acts as an impedance transformer, and the impedance seen at the feedpoint of the transmission line will depend on the feedline length. The feedpoint impedance is not to be confused with the characteristic impedance of the line. A 450 ohm ladder line may have a feedpoint impedance ranging from very low to very high. You 40 meter flattop antenna should have an feed impedance of about 70 ohms, and if your feedline is an electrical halfwave (or a multiple) on 40 meters, the shack end will also have a 70 ohm feedpoint impedance, but if it is an odd multiple of a quarter wavelength, the shack feedpoint impedance will be quite high. If you want a bit more information on the transformation properties of a transmission line (in plain language with no math), take a look at the antenna, feedline, tuner article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com This same length antenna on 20 and 10 meters will have a high impedance at its midpoint because each side is a half wavelength or full wavelength long - again, this will be transformed to a low impedance at the shack end if the feedline length is an odd multiple of a quarter wavelength at these frequencies. Be aware that the K2 autotuner has a bit of trouble loading a very high impedance, so I recommend that you extend the length of your antenna a bit to keep away from the high impedance points and make the transmission line some multiple of a half wavelength for all the bands of interest. The use of a balun is optional, but if you do use one, the current type (like the BL1) is preferred over a voltage balun and whether or not a 1:1 balun or 4:1 balun will handle the line better depends on the feedpoint impedance at the shack end - some experimentation may be in order (or transmission line measurements and analysis). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi all, I am running a barefoot K2 with various options, including the auto-tuner and am getting ready to put up a new antenna. I've decided on a 40 meter dipole that I will feed with 450 ohm 'window' line. This will be my only antenna, at least for a while. I operate mostly on 40 meters (CW) but also a bit on 20 (psk31) and 15/10 (also CW) when they are open and hope to tune the 40 meter dipole to those bands with the auto-tuner. I am planning to run the 'window' line all the way into the shack to the K2 (which is about 5 or ten feet from the outside wall). My question is should I also use the BL1 at the K2 and will I have any trouble tuning to the other bands. I guess I don't understand what 4:1 means, in this case as I'll be using 450 ohm feedline to the K2. Thanks in advance for your comments. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New KX1
Congrats!! It is truly The Apocalyptic Radio! 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 13, 2006, at 5:20 AM, a.yoshida wrote: Hello Finished asembling KX1/KXAT1. What a great Tranceiver it is !!! -- 73 de aki, ja1nlx [EMAIL PROTECTED] K2 #4504, K1 #1963, KX1 #1450 http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~yy7a-ysd/ http://ja1nlx.exblog.jp/_ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 s/n 1031 on the air practice...
Dears, as my K1 s/n 1031 arrived on Fri last week I was happy to test it in the air during this weekend. When I unwrapped the double box I found something so small that I though its just dummy sample of real radio only and self radio will come later ;) How surprised I was when I connected the power and it receiving...hi. First quick check found that its K1-4 covering 40/30/20/15m with KAT1, KNB1 installed including the KST1. So except the KBT1 (which I will order in the future) its fully loaded baby...es expected. Radio seems to be clean and not damaged so first good news. BTW: I am happy that I was able to buy it builded already cause as I am relly overloaded over the week with business I would like to spend a little free time with on-air operation. I had the time to test on the air just in dark time so 15m was out. My first station I heard from jo60xj in Kostice, Czech Republic was JH6 on 20m then PY4 and many EU's. My first QSO I made after longer time of my replying to lot's stations. I was a bit flustrated for first few mins cause I was not able to catch nobody although the LCD bargraph shows 5W out. After 15mins of unsatisfactory operation was clear to me the reason the receiver is as good as I am calling with my poor antenna ( 20m sloper at 4m only ) only DX stations ! :) With my one evenning radio like RockMite on 40m I called stations not far away from me and I got reply very easily. Here I called PY4, ZL2, JH6...so its nothing special that I did not grabed them, hi. So my first QSO I made with AA3B on 20m with 5W output into the low sloper beaming to East in contest CQM. After I made another QSO's see log... 13.5.06 19:49U 14034.7AA3B 599/599 001/114 13.5.06 19:50U 14036.3W1MK 599/599 002/150 13.5.06 20:10U 14022.1KS1J 599/599 003/090 13.5.06 20:14U 14021.5K8GL 599/599 004/091 13.5.06 20:41U 14002.6K8PO 599/599 005/110 13.5.06 21:50U 14038.95B4AGC599/599 006/268 13.5.06 22:02U 14029.4N9RV 599/599 007/126 13.5.06 22:33U 10108.0EA6SX 599/599 14.5.06 20:34U 14009.9 W1MK599/579 Rob, MA KAT1 has problem on 40m to tune up as the Inv.V antennas as its arranged for 160m band and reactive part of feed point impedance will be high. 30-15m was not problem to tune up all my antennas. (i.e. Inv.V 2x38m linear loaded, double wires 20/15m low sloper) KNB1 filter helped just one time from five different situations I tested on the bands but it seems to be standard. Variable IF xtal filter sounds to me well specialy when 200Hz bandwidth selected although the stopband will not be high as sounded on the air. Audio makes a bit popclick efect when keying but it can be the alignment problem only I will see. Otherwise the receiver is very sensitive and extremly quiet with enough gain so its very comfortable operation. Finaly it seems that my new K1-4 works very well and will make lot of fun specialy on travelling, backpack, or camps. Great. 73, Petr OK1RP Petr Ouředník 00420608230010 (private) [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.qsl.net/ok1rp ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question
You've gotten plenty of good advice, and one of the best pieces of advice was Don's suggestion to make the antenna a bit longer than the ~66 ft required for a resonant half-wave dipole on 40 meters. As Don mentioned making the antenna longer will make it easier to tune on 20 and 10 meters where a 66-ft antenna has an extremely high feedpoint impedance. Exact length is not critical as long as the two legs of the antenna are of equal length. If you have room, you could try an end-to-end length of 87 +/- 3 ft or 105 feet +/- 5 feet. These two lengths are not magically efficient or any such thing, but a lot of us have found them easy to tune on multiple bands with simple tuners. The two lengths will look familiar to users of the W3EDP and G5RV antennas. Both lengths tune well as a center-fed doublet on non-WARC bands from 40m on up. Both can be pressed into service on 80m if need be. 73, Ken K3VV Coopersburg, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Feedline Question
Ken K3VV wrote; ...one of the best pieces of advice was Don's suggestion to make the antenna a bit longer than the ~66 ft required for a resonant half-wave dipole on 40 meters. As Don mentioned making the antenna longer will make it easier to tune on 20 and 10 meters where a 66-ft antenna has an extremely high feedpoint impedance. Avoiding a close encounter with 1/2 wavelength is important, Ken, but cutting the antenna to a length other than 66 feet won't necessarily help and might make it worse. That's because the feed line acts like an impedance transformer. The impedance at the feedpoint at the antenna will appear at the terminals of the feed line *only* if the feed line happens to be exactly 1/2 wavelength long, electrically. It can be rather difficult to predict the actual feedpoint impedance without some careful measurements and calculations. Usually it's easier to see if the ATU doesn't have enough range, then adjust either the feed line length or the antenna length a bit until it works on all the bands. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Any Suggestions on VOX Problem?
Curt, I have no guesses that make sense, except for some kind of pickup (hum or RF) on the mic audio. Do you have a very loud audio noise source in the shack? Are you using the same mic for PTT operation? When you use PTT (using the same microphone), is the transmitted audio OK? If the audio is OK when using PTT, then it is NOT likely to be hum or RF pickup on the mic cable, and you will have to dig into the KSB2 board to determine the source of the problem (or have someone else do it for you - you may want to contact your builder to see if he might correct the problem for you). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a K2/100 S/N 5417 pretty much loaded. I didn't build this radio and dont want extremely technical suggestions or answers, in other words and if possible I would love to have it kept to a very elementary level. I also refuse to unsolder one component after paying to have it built. I am almost all CW and although this radio has the SSB option I never even tried it till until just last night. The problem is: The VOX doesn't act anything like the manual says it should or any normal VOX acts. I am using a Heil headset mic and can get it to operate using the PTT but not VOX. When trying to use VOX the receiver mutes, the S meter pegs and I hear a low level hashing sound at which point I need to turn off the radio completely and power it back up because every function switch is unless acting like dummy switches doing nothing. Upon power up and if I then use PTT it works like it's supposed to. This does this on all bands and even into a dummy load so RF doesn't seem to be the problem although it sure acts like an RF problem. I do have the radio grounded, but maybe I should try it without a ground, maybe a RF loop? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Im just no longer into going down to the board level to fix things, been there done that, and especially since I am currently on disability because of a vision problem. This is my first time on this reflector, thanks much and thanks for being here. Curt/k3ey ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New KX1
yeah, sadly. Tis true though. 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 14, 2006, at 4:19 PM, wayne burdick wrote: That's all ham radio needs is a good, solid, 9-out-of-100 apocalypse. Restore our faith in independent communications W On May 14, 2006, at 10:55 AM, Alexandra Carter wrote: Congrats!! It is truly The Apocalyptic Radio! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] My uninstalled KXB30 module ...
My apology to the Elecraft list for this use of bandwidth ... Any interest in my (now) unused, assembled KXB30 module for the KX1? This module was removed from my KX1 by Don Wilhelm who is the KXB3080 module installation expert by now ... Don removed it using a Hakko-808 de-soldering gun ... the wires that you see in the pictures are still intact and may reach to the installation points in your KX1 ... Price is $15.00, and includes 1st class USPS mailing, or $10.00 if I hand it to you in person at the Dayton Hamvention next Friday. I'll accept your personal check (will take 7 business days for the check to clear) or a money order ... no PayPal, No CASH ... Pictures are here: http://weywalker.home.mindspring.com/ Please reply off-reflector to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 73, Weymouth Walker (Wey) ... K8EAB Metro Atlanta, GA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for May 14th 15th, 2006
Good Evening, Two interesting nets. The first was plagued by QSB (but not on this end). The next was hit with even faster QSB (flutter) which did effect copy on this end. But I was hearing check ins from the Midwest who stated they could not hear me. KL7V/5 was a solid S7 as was Tom in Missouri. Never can tell which way propagation is pointed. We did have a few folks from MAQP stop by. Massachusetts QSO Party?? Pete bookended twenty meters. His first check in was strong, the second weaker, and then on 40 I had to ask for three repetitions of his call before I got it right. VE6ITA, John was trying to get Tom's attention but he was pounding into Oregon at an S7 or better. Scott checked in from rainy St. Paul so we exchanged bug reports; the biting kind! Once the weather becomes pleasant here the black flies make it less so. You get about five minutes outside before you become a meal. But those Midwestern mosquitos don't give even that much time before you are being drained of blood. At least I don't have deer flies here ;) My work bench has been filled with all sorts of projects lately. Two of them are hobby related. The other four are for work. But the solder station is getting used, the oscilloscope is getting a workout, and I am getting to design and build electronics. I get to write the firmware too so I am having fun. I will close the control loop between a camera, some servos, and an accelerometer/magnetometer lashup. Once the camera is aimed correctly just hit the hold button and the control loop takes over (cross fingers here). I am getting away from my wire wrapping technique and using a bit of ugly construction. I can get the test leads in more easily. However, the lists === On 14051 kHz at 2259z: W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 K3IU - Ken - RI - K2 - 5413Has now checked in four times from three different K2s. K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423 K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152 AA0GO - Mike - MO - Ten Tec Corsair N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553 On 7045 kHz at 0259z: N0SS - Tom - K2 - 008 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553 K7TQ - Randy - ID - K2 - 213 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608QNI #65!!! VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384 W1EUY - Dave - MA - K2 - 744??? KL7V/5 - Sam - OK - K2 - 3158 WG7Y - Robert - WY - ?? W1KV - Stephen - MA - ?? AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993QNI #55!!! N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 QNI #10! If there are any errors in the above two lists please send me an email with the corrections. Any fills would be helpful too. I am glad the QRN was not as bad on 40 meters as it was last week. I did hear complaints from folks in the East of how bad it was but I heard very little. Gives my ears a rest ;) Until next week, stay well, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Where are you at Dayton?
QRPKITS-PCVISE 246 247 MICROHAM 516 ELECRAFT 196 197 198 ARRL 232 233 234 PLUS? DIAMOND365 PEET BROS 151 KANGA US 041 042 Telepost Inc 517 MI QRP CLUB242 QRP ARCI 241 G-QRP CLUB 243 I will NOT pursueing this endeavor any further due to health reasons but I will say this that DARA can produce a list like this from their database! Thank you for your interest. Dick, NJ9K ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
