[Elecraft] Audio Output
I have a question related to the audio signal of the K2. I have completed the base K2 and during stage 2 I was already concerned about the low audio output. I first thought that my headphone was to blame, a 16 ohm unit that is not able to transfer all the audio power from the amplifier but now after completing stage 3 with the speaker installed I have a very meagre audio output. I'm not talking about loudness, I 'm talking about a low level audio signal of only a few millvolts at the standard 4 ohm speaker. This with AF and RFC fully clockwise. Further I disabled AGC and then it gets a little bit louder but if I use the speaker I can hardly hear, I have to use the headphone to hear . Is there any easy way to check the audio amplifier, I'm thinking to put a 1khz tone at the input of the LM386. Thanks for suggestions. K73 Arie KI6EWA __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K-2 and digital question
On Sun, 3 Sep 2006 20:47:03 -0400, H. Cary III wrote: >Will do when I return home...vistiting daughter in >Philadelphia...hope to get to work on the K2 digital stuff next >weekend...i did manage to turn on rtty in the secondary menu but >tht's as far as I've gotten. Only two responses so far... Well, after a lot of experimenting this weekend w/ the K2 at minimum power into a dummy load, I finally got it set up for BPSK-31 and actually made a QSO on 40 meters with a station in North Dakota, halfway across the country, w/50 watts into a lossy dipole. I have recordings of what the various modes are supposed to sound like, but I haven't found a source of what they are supposed to look like on the MixW waterfall display. I have learned to recognize the BPSK-31 signals, though. There are several that I see that I can't identify, and of course I recognize the big Navy encrypted syncronous RTTY signal on 5346 kHz (60 meter band) which cannot be detected, let alone decrypted, by the usual stuff that we hams have, (I've heard that stuff for most of my ham and professional life) but it's a good 60-meter "beacon". The setup I stumbled across has a few things that are not intuitive and I don't know if this is the optimum setup or if I missed something, but that's what the reflector is all about. I've taken the liberty of posting this to the reflector in case anyone there can help us get it set up "right". Enjoy the rest of the weekend, have a safe trip home, and we'll be in touch. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for September 3rd & 4th, 2006
On Sun, 03 Sep 2006 21:15:02 -0700, Kevin Rock wrote: > Now to determine what is going on with the >SS-30M. Any ideas from the brain trust are most welcome. Until I >determine the problem I'll stick with the backup power supply. I fried an Astron many years ago when the Astron output went below the battery voltage. Theymdon;t hgave any reverse current protection, and it cost a fortune to ship it to them and have it shipped back plus parts (new SCR and other things). Since that time I've used a RV "dual battery" isolator (reverse polarity) to avoid that problem -- need to run the P/S at 14.5 to get 13.8 out, though. >I'll try to get a new deep cycle battery before next week. If you get to the Eastside somehow, I would recommend Batteries Northwest (look then up in the phone book) and get the biggest Gel-Cell deep cycle battery that your budget can stand. I use the Size 31 which is a truck battery (100 AH) and they last me about 4 years in 24/7 float service. >I will be >running ECN from the middle of Hillsboro at Shute Park. I am not sure if >I have access to AC power or if I'll be on my own running from DC. >The K2 will be running into a Y cable so I can have some >external speakers for the show and headphones for your's truly. Do you want to borrow my computer speakers whichj work just fine with the K2? Speak up now and we'll arrange a transfer. BTW - finally got my PSK running on the K2/100 and made my first out-of-state contact this afternoon - North Dakota, running 50 watts to my dipole on 40m. California SSB on 90 watts doesn't count as "out of state" any more -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for September 3rd & 4th, 2006
Good Evening and Happy Labor Day!! I got out of bed this morning took a shower and a few aspirin ;) That helped my nephew induced aches and pains a great deal. After breakfast I started chores. One of them was to clean up my antenna junk on the roof. Ms. Patricia had been after me to get those unused antennas off the roof but I had been procrastinating. Well she no longer can yell at me about having to sweep under either the loop or the dual dipole. I've wrapped them up for future deployment and swept off the roof. By the time that was done I was in danger of smearing the roofing so I came in and drank about a liter and a half of water. More chores and I listened to a few lectures from the Teaching Company. I finished the course on Reformation Europe so I started the next series beginning with the Enlightenment. The Story of Language is on the second cassette so I will not grow bored ;) About that time I had to leave to see if I could get my chains sharpened for the chainsaw. Luckily the hardware store in Banks was open but the sharpening folks were not there. Also unlucky for me: they did not have a chain of the right size to add to my stock. I'll have to wait until Tuesday to get a chain sharpened. I'll tax their resources though since I've got some chains sharpened with curved cutting faces and some with chisel shaped cutters. The loggers swear by the chisel shape and I agree. They cut very quickly. What I don't like is their tendency to chatter a bit before they bite. But enough logging! During the first net I experienced a little emergency. Right after I snagged W6BK I lost power. At first I thought it was the K2's fuse. No, I could cycle the power. However, there was not enough power to run it through a single dit. I turned it off and switched to my lesser rig (Icom 706). It had the same problem only in stronger terms, it would simply chatter on - off - on - off without allowing me a chance to hear. My battery was too low to jump to that so I pulled my Astron SS-30 M offline and dug out the Astron 20. Finding a screwdriver to fit the wire holders took the time. I was off the air for about five minutes while frantically pulling plugs and screwing in wires. I got back on the air and called CQ to no avail; anyone interested in checking had gone away. But, W6ZH, was there to commiserate with me. Now to determine what is going on with the SS-30M. Any ideas from the brain trust are most welcome. Until I determine the problem I'll stick with the backup power supply. I'll try to get a new deep cycle battery before next week. I will be running ECN from the middle of Hillsboro at Shute Park. I am not sure if I have access to AC power or if I'll be on my own running from DC. I will be working from an inverted V hung in the large Doug Fir in the park. I've been informed I'll have time to hoist the antenna and to strike it after the gig. I'll not be as able to hear the weak signals as I am at home. Cities have a way of putting a lot of hash into the aether! Then there will be a bit of local QRM from the ARES folks wondering what I am doing with my paddles ;) You all and I will be on display with another CW op running play by play relating what we're up to. The K2 will be running into a Y cable so I can have some external speakers for the show and headphones for your's truly. Enough of this: the lists => On 14050 kHz at 2300z: (No interfering signal today which was very nice) K0JEM - Joel - KS - K1 - 1400 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 NK6A - Don - CA - ??Not really sure of this one. I copied NK5A. N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646I am glad her healing is going well!! N9SF - Bob - IN - K2 - 5308 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866QNI #20!! VE3XL - Ric - ON - Ten Tec Omni W6BK - Dave - CA - K2 - 4910 On 7045 kHz at 0159 kHz: N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138 QNI #25!! AF4PP - Charles - GA - ?? W6WY - Pete - CA - KX1 - 279 AA3WF - Mychael - PA - K2 - 1025 Great to hear you!! WI6O - John - CA - K1 - 922 QNI #5! KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 AK2B - Tom - NY - K2 - 4482 N5ME - Al - TN - ?? AD5VK - Ed - TX - ?? AA4NN - Joe - SC - K2 - 3751QNI #10! Thank you for the relays guys, it really helps me out. I am not sure about NK6A though. I thought I had NK5A in LA but this is a club call in Texas. Sorry about that. As ever if you have any fills or corrections please email them to me. I cannot guarantee I'll get an corrective email back to the Elecraft Reflector but I will respond to you and correct the database. My life seems most hectic lately. This is good; it means I am getting paid for my work! Remember: next week we'll be under observation by a bunch of folks somewhat skeptical of CW. Try to be on your best behavior :) I know I will have t
RE: [Elecraft] VCO Linearization
Bruce, What is the starting frequency, and what is the frequency just before the 'End' message? If the frequency stays at the high end (near 12100 kHz), and does not go down in frequency, you will have to look at the PLL Reference oscillator and its control signal which begins at U5 pin 7. Did your PLL range measure within the expected bounds? What were the actual frequencies? Please verify that the frequency starts at the vicinity of 12100 kHz and state if it decrements any at all during CAL PLL. In the end, you will likely find the problem is caused by a solder bridge on the Thermistor board, but a few measurements can confirm whether or not that is the real source of the problem. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I am trying to do the VCO linearization for the K2 #5713. It start but > the frequency never goes down nor does the "d" show up saying it is > setting points. But after 8 Minutes it does say END. Nothing else. I > do hear signals on 40 but they are nowhere near the same frequency as > the K2. I do have the probe plugged into TP1 and everything up to this > point is perfect. > > Now for the experts to step in and give me some insite on what > may be wrong. > > 73 Bruce N9BX > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] VCO Linearization
Hello I am trying to do the VCO linearization for the K2 #5713. It start but the frequency never goes down nor does the "d" show up saying it is setting points. But after 8 Minutes it does say END. Nothing else. I do hear signals on 40 but they are nowhere near the same frequency as the K2. I do have the probe plugged into TP1 and everything up to this point is perfect. Now for the experts to step in and give me some insite on what may be wrong. 73 Bruce N9BX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 amplifier for sale
Hello Fellow Elecrafters, After two years with my K2 I bought a KPA100 upgrade but have had second thoughts about needing higher power so on the block it goes. Included with the sale is 1) KPA100 (not built) bought in February 2006, 2) K2 MCU and IOC firmware upgrade 2.04, and 3) 10mBPF/VFO/ALC mod kits included at the time of purchase. The box was opened to read the manual, but it is otherwise untouched. I would like $340 shipped in the lower 48, a bit more elsewhere. Thanks for letting this add slip in. 73, Deke K1FT Barrington RI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Intermittent RXsensitivity...
Gerald, That certainly sounds like it might be hard to isolate. I may be wrong, but from the behavior it sounds like you have a relay with points that are not making good contact - when you put a bit of RF through it, it becomes OK for a while. Please be aware that this is just speculation on my part. You may have to work with it a lot to determine if it is really fixed. Intermittents are very difficult to troubleshoot. Before you do anything drastic, check for unsoldered connections in the bandpass and lowpass filter areas and the T/R switch too. Sometimes unsoldered connections will work just fine for a long time but afterward they begin to develop oxidation which makes the connection first intermittent and then perhaps fails completely. The connections for these areas are under the heat sink, so be prepared to remove it for your soldering checks. If you can induce the failure and then have it continue while you remove the heat sink, you could also check the relay points with a continuity test between the pins. Check the schematic key for the realy chart and the schematic itself for the appropriate relay points and pins. You should be able to receive with the heat sink removed, but be certain you do not attempt to transmit until it is replaced - WORK CAREFULLY if you attempt power on with the heat sink removed. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi all > I notice an intermittent rx sensitivity on my K2, Serial-Nr. > 488, after changing band eg. from 20 to 40 and vice versa. After > pushing tune or transmitting a couple of dots the sensitivity > returns > on the activ band and is gone on the other band. This happens with > and without the KAT2. > > Where shall I start searching? > > 73 Gerald, HB9CEY > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K-2 and digital question
On Wed, 30 Aug 2006 11:02:12 -0400, H.Cary III wrote: >Has anyone connected a RigBlaster with their K2 for SSTV or PSK-31? If >so, I'd like to contact you off-line as I have some questions. I've >wired the "pins" in the RigBlaster per the instructions for Elecraft and >hooked it up to the computer properly but no luck receiving, etc. >Thanks in advance for any help! I'm using a RigBlaster Plus with a K2 and MixW, and it's been trial-and-error to get it set up for data (PSK-31, etc). I would also be interested in what others had to say about the setup. Did you get any replies to your posting above? If so, please share them with us, if you can. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation
John, WA8KNE wrote: Good point on the refresh time. I never liked tuning for a peak or dip using a digital meter. Guess my analog brain doesn't like living in a digital world. I've picked up old analog VTVMs for a buck or two at hamfests and converted them to FET op amps in place of the tubes. Zero drift/warm up and all the advantages of an analog meter that runs on a 9v battery. -- For peaking adjustments, even some of the cheap(er), slower DMMs like the Radio Shack I mentioned have a relative level scale - a row of dots below the numbers - that moves according to changes in the voltage or current level. That scale works quite fast to show a peak or dip even though the numeric display takes a few seconds to update. It's something I recommend one look for if they are going to rely on only their DMM for making adjustments. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Update on K2 issues?
Floyd, I don't know about any particular 'issues' with the K2 that have not been addressed - the answer will depend on your definition of 'issues'. There are practical limitations with any given design, and the K2 is included in that list. The specifications point out these limits. Balancing Price/Performance includes doing many design tradeoffs which do introduce these limitations. If your operating procedures require something more, then the K2 may not be adequate for your tasks. As for problems with the design, the team at Elecraft has addressed any that have occurred, but many of the changes to the K2 have been the result of operating enhancements rather than fixing any particular problem. The Keying Waveshape change is one exception - this was a problem that was only apparent as a problem after the KPA100 had been introduced. If you have specifics, we can better address them rather than generalized statements. The reflector is a good forum to reveal what you perceive as 'issues'. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > A couple of years back when I had my K2, there were some issues with it > that were unresolved at that time. I'd like to know if those items have > been resolved over the past two years and if so I might consider > building another K2. Rather than posting the info here, I'd prefer to > email the info to a knowledgeable person for comment - any volunteers? > > 73, Floyd - K8AC > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation
Raj Good point on the refresh time. I never liked tuning for a peak or dip using a digital meter. Guess my analog brain doesn't like living in a digital world. I've picked up old analog VTVMs for a buck or two at hamfests and converted them to FET op amps in place of the tubes. Zero drift/warm up and all the advantages of an analog meter that runs on a 9v battery. If there is any interest I will write it up after I retire at the end of this year. Looking forward to more time for what I WANT to do. 73 John WA8KNE Rajiv Dewan, N2RD wrote: One of the characteristics I look for is response time / refresh time / time to read. It is much easier to make adjustments that depend on measured voltage or resistance if the meter quicks refreshes the readings. Some multimeters, especially some of the Flukes, are excellent in this regard. For example Fluke 170 series will detect open and short conditions as short as 250 micro seconds. It also has a loud beeper and I find it to be a great continuity checker. Regards, Raj, N2RD K2 #5613 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #5099 is on the air!
First and foremost, Ill take this opportunity to thank everyone who contributes to this reflector and all the great support that is provided here. Although Ive never had to post a question here, I was always able to search the archives for any questions I had and come up with the answers or at least a direction. Ive not only learned a great deal about my K2 and other Elecraft products, but also a lot about the amateur radio hobby and how to be a good ham (more than any other internet resource). You should all be commended for the invaluable service provided here, day in and day out. My journey into ham radio started when I was a kid in the late 60s and early 70s when my Grandfather, the original W8FGU, got me interested in the hobby and electronics. He passed away when I was 12 and I never got my ticket (I entered my teens where my priorities changed and then life happened). A couple of years ago, I started to renew my interest in ham radio and started researching the hobby and was flabbergasted by the amount of change over the past 30 years, some good some bad. I really liked the idea of building some of my own gear and came across the Elecraft site. After a year of research and procrastination, I made the decision that to get my feet wet again that I would order a K2. I ordered my K2/100 with a number of options, a year ago to the day. At the recommendation of many on this reflector, I also obtained some basic test equipment and temp controlled soldering station. I slowly and methodically worked on these kits in the winter and spring until completed and had a great time putting them together. I only ran into a couple of small problems, mostly man handling small parts that were quickly replaced by the great support staff at Elecraft. Any technical problems that occurred were cured by a quick look at the reflector archives. At the same time I also studied and obtained my Tech and General tickets in March and then my Extra in May. At this time I was pleased to find that I could obtain my Grandfathers call, W8FGU, through the vanity program. Throughout the spring and summer I worked to put my shack together and spend a number of hours trying to increase my code speed and learn the proper CW operating procedures. Last week I was able to string a wire antenna (Cobra Ultra Senior multiband) between a couple of trees in the backyard. Im still working on a grounding system but did some preliminary testing of the entire system and knew I could get a signal out. Well, yesterday I finally worked up enough nerve to try and make my first contact. I know this is just a hobby, but man, I could not believe how nervous I was (Im a shift officer, firefighter/paramedic dealing with blood and guts on a daily basis for cryin out loud). I tuned around listening for awhile and chickened out answering a couple of slow CQs. I then tuned up 7112MHZ, set my power to 50 watts, tuned up my trusty KAT100, called QRL? and then began calling CQ at about 7 ½ WPM to guarantee I could copy. After a couple of tries, with no answers I started to wonder if in fact my signal was getting out since this was the first time, I really had no idea. I decided to give it a couple more shots and figured it was good practice at least when all of a sudden, I heard my own call letters coming back at me from Rick, K4UFS. Now, Ive been training myself to head copy reliably at 10WPM and pretty well at 13WPM. Rick came back to me somewhere around those speeds, but I was so nerved up, that all I heard was Charlie Browns teacher (wah wah wah wah). After what Im sure was a nice report from Rainbow City , AL, I asked Rick to QRS and told him it was my first contact. Being a fine gentleman, he replied that he would be more than happy to QRS and help me out with my first contact. Rick was very patient as I stumbled through the conversation and he epitomized all that is good about a veteran ham helping out a newbie. He certainly made my contact a good and memorable experience. I asked him to send a QSL card and he told me that if he could get it to me today, he would ;-) I live just south of Detroit and Rick gave me very solid signal reports into NE Alabama @ 50 watts. He also stated that the rig sounded good. I cant tell you what a great experience it has been to learn, build, test and finally get on the air with this equipment. I just cant imagine simply buying a radio off the shelf and getting on the air to be as much fun as I have had in my experience. I know my Grandfather would be proud. Thanks again for all of the unknowing support. I hope to continue to get better at CW and meet some of you on the air soon. Dave Van Wallaghen W8FGU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/
Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation
One of the characteristics I look for is response time / refresh time / time to read. It is much easier to make adjustments that depend on measured voltage or resistance if the meter quicks refreshes the readings. Some multimeters, especially some of the Flukes, are excellent in this regard. For example Fluke 170 series will detect open and short conditions as short as 250 micro seconds. It also has a loud beeper and I find it to be a great continuity checker. Regards, Raj, N2RD K2 #5613 John Young wrote: Paul I think meters are like shirts - one size does NOT fit all. I have my 20 year old Fluke 73, several $2.99 Harbor Freight DMMs and some in between. Each fills a need. In the case of the Harbor Freight it is almost cheaper to buy a new meter than replace the 9v battery. When you blow up a cheap meter you can just pull out a spare and get back to work. 73 John WA8KNE Paul Neuman wrote: I looking to purchase a decent DMM and would appreciate any recommendations of specific models. I've had two crappy Radio Shack DMMs blow up on me. Each time I bought one, I promised myself it was only until I could get something good ordered and then promptly put it off. Well now I'm DMM-less again and I'm in the middle of installing my 3080 option. I'm looking through the Mouser catalog and there are so many choices. I guess I can't go wrong with a Fluke. Would like something for <$100 but I don't want to be buying one again in two months. No HV or special requirements. Thanks in advance. Paul ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Update on K2 issues?
A couple of years back when I had my K2, there were some issues with it that were unresolved at that time. I'd like to know if those items have been resolved over the past two years and if so I might consider building another K2. Rather than posting the info here, I'd prefer to email the info to a knowledgeable person for comment - any volunteers? 73, Floyd - K8AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fw: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation
I purchaed a Sperry DM-4400A at Lowes for 50 dollars and for my applications fits the need. 73 john-n4dsp - Original Message - From: "Thom R LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "John Young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Paul Neuman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 9:18 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation On Sun, 3 Sep 2006, John Young wrote: Each fills a need. In the case of the Harbor Freight it is almost cheaper to buy a new meter than replace the 9v battery. When you blow up a cheap meter you can just pull out a spare and get back to work. Kinda like watches 73,Thom-k3hrn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation
On Sun, 3 Sep 2006, John Young wrote: Each fills a need. In the case of the Harbor Freight it is almost cheaper to buy a new meter than replace the 9v battery. When you blow up a cheap meter you can just pull out a spare and get back to work. Kinda like watches 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation
Paul I think meters are like shirts - one size does NOT fit all. I have my 20 year old Fluke 73, several $2.99 Harbor Freight DMMs and some in between. Each fills a need. In the case of the Harbor Freight it is almost cheaper to buy a new meter than replace the 9v battery. When you blow up a cheap meter you can just pull out a spare and get back to work. 73 John WA8KNE Paul Neuman wrote: I looking to purchase a decent DMM and would appreciate any recommendations of specific models. I've had two crappy Radio Shack DMMs blow up on me. Each time I bought one, I promised myself it was only until I could get something good ordered and then promptly put it off. Well now I'm DMM-less again and I'm in the middle of installing my 3080 option. I'm looking through the Mouser catalog and there are so many choices. I guess I can't go wrong with a Fluke. Would like something for <$100 but I don't want to be buying one again in two months. No HV or special requirements. Thanks in advance. Paul ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 + K2 + XV + PC = cabling confusion
Heya Jack ..I took the "easiest" path and just connected on the PC side of the KRC2 .. 2,3,5 to the PC, 6,8,9 to the XV and added necessary jumpers (all but ALC). Only thing I'm worried about is the total cable length on AUXBUS, from K2->KRC2->XV is about 4 feet ... I'll know later today when it moves off the bench and into the jitney :) thanks jd On 9/2/06, Jack Brindle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: John; As I recall your configuration, your KRC2 uses the band info from the Auxbus to select the various transverters. I don't believe that it needs the RS-232 communications for your use. This means that you can fabricate a cable that connects the K2's serial port to the computer. The KRC2 and the XVT both need most of the remaining signals, so you can connect them from the K2 to the KRC2 and the XVT in any convenient fashion. The easiest would be to cable from the K2 to the KRC2, then from the second KRC2 connector to the XVT. You might want to look at the cable fabricated for the KAT100, it provides the connections you need, so something very similar might be the way for you to go. Good luck with it, let me know if you need help. On Sep 2, 2006, at 3:07 PM, John D'Ausilio wrote: > So .. not a moment too soon. I've completed the new XV144 to use as > the intermediate IF in my rover microwave setup. Now I've already > configured the system such that the K2 connects to a KRC2 with a > custom map, and the KRC2 switches around all sorts of stuff for me. > Last time out I ended up using an IC706 as the IF rig when the > equipment I was going to use didn't work. So now this time I'd like > all these things to play together .. the K2 driving an XV and the KRC2 > and Roverlog. > > Looking at the KRC2 manual, it sort of indicates an either/or > scenario, and jumpers determine whether the PC side of the cable gets > AUXBUS ans 8R and other control signals. Since I want a PC on there, > can I just parallel the K2 end? I was using a straignt serial molded > 9-pin cable between the K2 and the KRC2, now I'll have to build one > (or maybe just hack into it and splice). > > de w1rt/john - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ROHS COMPLIANT?
(sorry for the delay, been on holiday) After trying lead-based and lead-free solder on some of the mini-kits, I went leaded for my K2 in the end. I knew it was going to be a whole lot easier especially if I ever had to rework anything... but this comment from Eric really stunned me: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: > We -strongly- recommend continuing to use regular lead based solder to > build our kits. Kester 44, and other 63/37, 60/40 lead/tin mix solders > are not going away in the US or in Eu and work much better for soldering > both RoHS and non-RoHS tinned parts. Removal of non-lead solder is > difficult at best for most builders, potentially damaging PC boards and > components, and thats why our warranty prohibits its usage. It does? Which warranty, where? The only warranty I read mentions nothing about unleaded solder: "The use of acid-core solder, water-soluble flux solder, or any corrosive or conductive flux or solvent will void this warranty in its entirety." and "In addition to the tools supplied, you will need these standard tools: [...] IC-grade, small-diameter (.031") solder (DO NOT use acid-core solder, water-soluble flux solder, additional flux, or solvents of any kind, which will void your warranty)" ... so *IF* I had gone ahead and used AgSnCu solder with a non-acidic non-water-soluble flux, would I REALLY have invalidated my warranty without knowing it? -- "Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] Please sponsor me! http://www.justgiving.com/noseynick I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
