[Elecraft] Contest this weekendw

2006-11-02 Thread Paul Gates, KD3JF
Can anyone tell me where I can find the rules for the SS
for this weekend?
Paul, KD3JF
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Re: [Elecraft] Contest this weekendw

2006-11-02 Thread vze3v8dt
Rules should be available on the ARRL website since it is an ARRL sponsored 
event.  

Yup, here it is:

http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2006/novss.html

Fun event, one of my favorites every year.  Unfortunately I've usually got 
something else going on the weekend of the CW event, but I put in a pretty good 
effort on the Phone event last year (QRP).  

72 & good luck!

Mark, NK8Q


>From: "Paul Gates, KD3JF" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2006/11/02 Thu AM 06:37:57 CST
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] Contest this weekendw

>Can anyone tell me where I can find the rules for the SS
>for this weekend?
>Paul, KD3JF
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[Elecraft] Audio Filter mini module

2006-11-02 Thread Darwin, Keith
I bought one a few weeks ago but preaching duties at church kept me from
having any free time to look at it.  Our new pastor has arrived so I can
return to non-preaching status which puts some free time back into my
life.

Time for that AF mini module!

Last night I put it together.  The entire kit took 2 hours.  I did not
install the battery box or the rubber feet since I plan to eventually
mount the module in an enclosure.

Assembly was easy, as is typical with mini modules and Elecraft stuff in
general.  I hooked it up to my K2, applied power and was rewarded with a
red LED and filtered sound in my headphones.

The low pass filter is very nice.  When activated it cuts some highs
even with the cutoff freq set to the highest setting.  I listened to 20
USB this morning wondering if the amount of cut would affect SSB
usability and it didn't.  The hiss was reduced and signals were still
adequately clear and crisp in the "cans".

The band pass filters however, don't do nice things on SSB.  Too much is
filtered.

On CW, the band pass filters are pretty nice indeed.  I find the first
one to be wonderful for must uses.  It doesn't ring enough to bother me
and the sweepable center freq is nice.  I did notice that the freq range
is rather non-linear.  With a 600 Hz tone peaked, the frequency control
is most of the way "up".

The 2nd band pass filter is noticeably more "focused" than the first.
The additional filtering comes at a price of increased ringing.  It
isn't enough to keep me from using this setting when needed but it won't
be my normal setting for rag chewing under typical band conditions.
Contest conditions may require it however.

What would I change with it?  Glad you asked.  I'd love a blend control
rather than a switch.  Something that can smoothly change from no BPF to
full BPF  I reviewing the schematic I think it would be an simple mod
but with the big switch already mounted, it would not be an easy thing
to actually do.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-02 Thread Steve Kavanagh
--- Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Have you any thoughts about what might be causing
> Don's K2/100 to behave 
> when he switches the display from RF to ALC? 

Yes, that is quite unexpected !  David, M0DHO, brought
this peculiarity to my attention and I noticed the
same behaviour on my rig.  I understand it may have to
do with firmware differences between normal and ALC
mode operation but I haven't seen a definitive answer.
 

Nor do I know if Elecraft has dealt with this general
issue in more recent production units.

73,
Steve VE3SMA

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Re: [Elecraft] CW keying

2006-11-02 Thread Joe-aa4nn

Direct keying is perfect.  I don't know any reason
to even consider optical coupling.  Good luck.
73, Joe, aa4nn

- Original Message - 
From: "Håkan Olsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW keying



Thanks Joe!

That's simple enough. Just about right for my level!  :-)

Is there any reason in practice to use optic coupling versus direct 
keying?

I'm going to use it for a K2 and never ever going to upgrade to K2/100
or using an amplifier.

de Håkan



Joe-aa4nn wrote:

You can look at the pinout for LPT1 at
http://www.k1ea.com/hints/lpt.htm
Also look at the pictorial at http://www.n3fjp.com/  under CW-PC 
Interface.

de Joe, aa4nn



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Re: [Elecraft] Contest this weekendw

2006-11-02 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Paul:


Can anyone tell me where I can find the rules for the SS
for this weekend?
Paul, KD3JF



Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2006/novss.html

Entry Forms: (ASCII) http://www.arrl.org/contests/forms/sscw.frm.html
   (PDF) http://www.arrl.org/contests/forms/sscw.pdf

Log Sheets:(PDF) http://www.arrl.org/contests/forms/novsslog.pdf

Havew fun.

73,

Tom   N0SS


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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 + KXB3080, Q7 voltages

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Kevin,

That is an Ooops that has not yet been caught thanks for spotting it.  The
1k resistor designation in the KXB3080 manual should be R28 instead of R2,
and by the way, there is another error on that schematic excerpt too - the
value of C56 should be 68 pf instead of the 6 pf shown.  It looks like the
digits were truncated in the schematic (or it was typed on an old typewriter
with a missing '8' key ).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Don,
>
> Yes, you are correct. Lifting one end of R28, Q7 still had a negative
> voltage at its base during transmit. I'll change out Q7.
>
> I'd like confirmation weather the KX1 circuit diagram on page 18 of the
> KBX3080 manual is correct or not. It shows Q7's base connecting to R2, a
> 1Kohm resistor.
>
> Thanks Don,
> 73,
> Kevin, KF0JX
>
>
> Don Wilhelm said the following on 11/01/2006 09:55 AM:
> > Kevin,
> >
> > There is no change in the base circuit of Q7 - that is true whether the
> > KXB30 or the KXB3080 is installed.  You should be tracking down
> the source
> > of the negative voltage at Q7 during transmit.
> >
> > Yes, the voltage at the base of Q7 should be about 0.7 volts
> during transmit
> > (long explaination of why follows:) - The source of the 6 volts during
> > transmit is at pin 7 of U3, then it goes through R26 and then
> through R28 on
> > its way to the base of Q7.
> >
> > When the 6T signal becomes active (it should during transmit),
> among other
> > things it is applied to the base of Q7 to saturate Q7 - effectively
> > producing a short between the collector and emitter of Q7 - the
> reason is to
> > protect the receiver input from the transmit RF.  When a transistor is
> > saturated the base to emitter voltage will be close to 0.7
> volts - if it is
> > anything else, either the transistor is bad or something else strange is
> > wrong.
> >
> > There is not a negative voltage produced intentionally in the
> KX1 - I would
> > guess you have a bad Q7 which is acting more like a diode and
> rectifying the
> > RF on its collector to produce a negative voltage at the base.
> If you want
> > to do a test to confirm my suspicion, lift one end of R28 and
> try a short
> > transmit while measuring the base voltage of Q7 - I would guess
> that it is
> > producing a negative voltage all by itself, if so, replace it
> (and put R28
> > back in place).
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >

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RE: [Elecraft] CW keying

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
The only reason to use optical coupling is to isolate the computer ground
from the K2 chassis (or use a fast relay to do the same thing).

If connecting the keyline from the computer to the K2 introduces additional
noise during receive, add the optical coupling.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Thanks Joe!
>
> That's simple enough. Just about right for my level!  :-)
>
> Is there any reason in practice to use optic coupling versus
> direct keying?
> I'm going to use it for a K2 and never ever going to upgrade to K2/100
> or using an amplifier.
>
> de Håkan
>
>
>
> Joe-aa4nn wrote:
> > You can look at the pinout for LPT1 at
> > http://www.k1ea.com/hints/lpt.htm
> > Also look at the pictorial at http://www.n3fjp.com/  under CW-PC
> > Interface.
> > de Joe, aa4nn
>

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[Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Mike Markowski
The KBT2 manual says 14.0V +/- 0.2V is needed to charge the battery.  Does that
mean something like an Astron putting out 13.8V is enough or is that too close
to the edge?  I seem to recall someone saying it was not enough ideally but
can't find the note now...or maybe I'm remembering incorrectly!

Thanks for any info,
Mike  ab3ap
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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

The 'float voltage' that must be applied to an SLA battery terminals should
be 13.8 volts to maintain a full charge on the battery.  The K2 has a series
diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode
drops about .2 volts.

What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must
connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the
battery.

There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it
may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct
pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-

>
> The KBT2 manual says 14.0V +/- 0.2V is needed to charge the
> battery.  Does that
> mean something like an Astron putting out 13.8V is enough or is
> that too close
> to the edge?  I seem to recall someone saying it was not enough
> ideally but
> can't find the note now...or maybe I'm remembering incorrectly!
>
> Thanks for any info,
> Mike  ab3ap
>

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[Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2006-11-02 Thread Jack Regan
Does anyone know what/who this is?  It is making a mess of the QRP calling
frequency..

 

Jack, AE6GC

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RE: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2006-11-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
They're quite audible in N.W. Oregon this A.M. too. 

These "letter stations" turn up from time to time all over the spectrum.
I've yet to hear a plausible explanation.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Does anyone know what/who this is?  It is making a mess of the QRP calling
frequency..

 

Jack, AE6GC

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2006-11-02 Thread Jason Milldrum

Here is some info on these beacons:

http://dxworld.com/markers.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter_beacon
http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/07/05/102/?nc=1

--
Jason Milldrum, NT7S
--
Station NT7S  http://www.recursiv.com/
QRPediahttp://www.qrpedia.com/

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
They're quite audible in N.W. Oregon this A.M. too. 


These "letter stations" turn up from time to time all over the spectrum.
I've yet to hear a plausible explanation.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Does anyone know what/who this is?  It is making a mess of the QRP calling
frequency..


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[Elecraft] Re: CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-02 Thread Bob Evans
Craig,

CW Sweepstakes is my favorite contests and one of the few that I make a full
bore effort to compete in.  I'll be running both my K2/100s at the 100W
level in a SO2R (single operator, 2 radio) configuration.  I use the old DOS
based TRlog contesting software which essentially lets both rigs operate as
one...as long as your head can handle hearing one radio in your left ear and
another radio in your right ear.

I will be all bands with a 2 element 40M beam at 80'; stacked triband 3
element quads(75' and 40') on 20,15 and 10; 80M 4 square and 80M full size
delta loop.  80M is not very productive from South Texas (STX section)
during SS, so most of my time will be on 40 and 20 with stints on 15 and 10
to see if they open up.  

I will especially be looking for Elecrafters!  I hope you have fun in the
contest.

Bob K5WA


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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Filter mini module

2006-11-02 Thread Rick Dettinger
I have been wondering if this filter is the same design as the KAF2 without
the clock.  I have often wished I could use my KAF2 with other rigs.  Having
an outboard filter works well to clean up the harsh sidetones of many rigs.
Like the K1.  I have been using a SCAF outboard filter but maybe the mini
module would be an improvement.  Any opinions?
Thanks and 73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2006-11-02 Thread Fred Jensen
They're Russian military stations.  I don't know what they are used for, 
but they show up at various places at various times.


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
They're quite audible in N.W. Oregon this A.M. too. 


These "letter stations" turn up from time to time all over the spectrum.
I've yet to hear a plausible explanation.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Does anyone know what/who this is?  It is making a mess of the QRP calling
frequency..

 


Jack, AE6GC

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[Elecraft] Powered speakers for K2

2006-11-02 Thread George
I bought a set of Altec Lansing "Powered Audio" stereo speakers at Wal Mart 
last week and am fairly pleased with the sound quality and volume.   And 
although maybe not perfect, they are an improvement over the internal K2 spkr.  
They were about $17.oo, as I recall.  They have a tone control, which helps a 
bit and are 3 watts total rms power.  I have no idea what the impedance is, as 
it was not shown.  Might be worth a try, and if you don't like em, you can 
return em.  (I'm keeping mine.)  The model # seems to be Bx1020.  

73 from George, n4ym
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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Fred (FL)
Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!  Why would
one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
up for it?  Circuit needs a mod.

Fred
N3CSY


 
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RE: [Elecraft] Audio Filter mini module

2006-11-02 Thread Darwin, Keith
Before I bought the AF mini-module, I compared the schematic to the K2
AF.  Nope, not the same.  The mini-module has the benefit of more
controls and a built-in AF amp.  Listening to them, I think the KAF2
rings more in the narrow position than the mini-module does but it's
been a while since I listened to the KAF2 so I may be off base.

I'd love to try the SCAF but went with the AF mini-module because it
combined a variable LPF (very similar to SCAF) along with two stages of
frequency sweepable band pass filtering.

I'd love to hear from someone who has run the SCAF and the AF
mini-module side by side.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 - 

-Original Message-

I have been wondering if this filter is the same design as the KAF2
without the clock.  
...
I have been using a SCAF outboard filter but maybe the mini module would
be an improvement.  Any opinions?
Thanks and 73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2006-11-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yes, Bob, W7AVK sent along this link:

http://www.cvni.net/radio/nsnl/nsnl032/nsnl32mx.html

That info has never been confirmed as far as I know and they've been around
for half a century according to some reports. 

Of course, the simple explanation is probably the right explanation: a
propagation beacon that tells various stations which frequencies to use at a
given time. Station "F" that's now on 7039.24 is supposed to be Vladivostok
which fits with the signal being heard on the west coast of the USA at this
time. 

So I'll retract my use of "plausible" and instead say that I've yet to hear
a confirmed explanation. 

Jack's right: the ones near the QRP freq on 40 are a darned nuisance. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

They're Russian military stations.  I don't know what they are used for, 
but they show up at various places at various times.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> They're quite audible in N.W. Oregon this A.M. too.
> 
> These "letter stations" turn up from time to time all over the 
> spectrum. I've yet to hear a plausible explanation.
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what/who this is?  It is making a mess of the QRP 
> calling frequency..
> 
>  
> 
> Jack, AE6GC
> 

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[Elecraft] CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-02 Thread J F
Craig,

Hoping to play the full period.

Planning on operating QRP with K2 #3311 (KAT2), 4
element SteppIr @ about 50', 1/4 wave vertical on 80M,
sloper on 40M and will give 160 a try as well. 40 is
my weak band antenna-wise... If time allows I may get
a really scrunched up 80M half square in the trees, we
shall see

QRP WAS would be nice ;o) I'll settle for doubling
last year's QSO count tho'...

Best of luck and hope to log you.

73,

Julius
n2wn
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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

Not a design glitch IMHO - there is no way that Elecraft can redesign the
float voltage for an SLA battery!! plus:
I for one would not eliminate the series protective diode, so unless someone
comes up with a protective diode with zero voltage drop, we just have to
deal with those two parameters.

One can always just connect whatever power supply voltage that is available
and accept the results.  The battery will have some level of charge with a
13.8 volt supply connected, but it will never come up to full capacity
charge.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!  Why would
> one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
> up for it?  Circuit needs a mod.
>
> Fred
> N3CSY
>

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[Elecraft] Re: CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-02 Thread rt_clay
I will also be on full-time in SS CW, class A (100 W). Like Bob I use two 
K2/100's SO2R, also using N6TR's software.

Antennas are a dipole and 1/4 wave vertical on 80m, dipole + 2 el yagi on 40 at 
100', two 4 el yagis on 20m at 100' and 50', two 6 el yagis on 15m at 70'/35', 
and a 6 el 10m yagi at 65'. 

40 and 20 are usually the two best bands here (NE Mississippi). Even if you are 
weak, try calling cq. If you only operate a few hours, especially on sunday 
lots of people will want to work you!

Tor
N4OGW


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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Mike Markowski
Thanks, Don & Tom, for your help.  Now I'll scout around the web for the Astron
schematic and try to find that pot.

I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places with me or to
build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery).  The K2 cover is
cheaper, the K1 building is more fun.

73,
Mike  ab3ap

Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Mike,
> 
> The 'float voltage' that must be applied to an SLA battery terminals should
> be 13.8 volts to maintain a full charge on the battery.  The K2 has a series
> diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode
> drops about .2 volts.
> 
> What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must
> connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the
> battery.
> 
> There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it
> may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct
> pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
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[Elecraft] ASTRON PS and KX1

2006-11-02 Thread Jack Regan
Elecrafters,

 

While reading the thread re: charging batteries I saw the note re: adjusting
the Astron.  

It occured to me that I could bump the ouput up from 13.8 to the "legal
limit" for my KX1.  The goal of course is "more power" out!

 

Is this a bad idea?  I say "bad" because I know that many will say that
small increases in power are not of much value given the nature of decibels
and the human hear, but unless this is a "bad" idea, I prefer to experiment
and see what results I get!

 

The ads for my RS-70M say it is adjustabe and my schematic shows a 20K ohm
pot on the input to the V meter  and a 500 ohm pot on the input to the I
meter.  I have not popped the top of the ps yet so I don't know what visual
inspection will reveal.  After I get some feedback on my idea I'll take a
look and see what I can do!

 

BTW, my Kenwood TS-570D specifies 13.8 VDC plus or minus 15%.  This gives me
a ceiling on 15.87.  I am only going to 14.2 for KX1!  I run them both of
the RS-70M when I am operating from home.

 

Thanks,

Jack, AE6GC

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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Earl W Cunningham
Fred, N3CSY wrote:
 
"Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!  Why would one want to adjust
their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make up for it?  Circuit needs a mod."
==
The diode in series with the power input to a radio is good design
technique.  Without that protection, if you accidentally connect the
power with the wrong polarity, pop goes the radio!
 
73, de Earl, K6SE
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[Elecraft] Mailserver bounces to list - apology

2006-11-02 Thread Keith Gosse
I want to apologize to the list for cluttering up the discussion in late 
August. 

Our school district moved to a new mail system which I found cumbersome 
and so started forwarding the mail from there to a personal account.  I 
did not know that their system would not delete mail that was forwarded 
to another account so the mailbox filled up and it took me a few days to 
wake up to that fact.


Do enjoy the lively informed discussions and enjoy using my T1.  KX1 is 
next and the info on the list has been very helpful - even before I 
start the kit.


73 to all
   Keith VE7ECK

PS (did not pick up on this earlier because I read the list once a week 
or so and filter for topics of interest, deleting all other messages)

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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Ian Stirling
On Thursday 02 November 2006 09:55, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it
> may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct
> pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.

  I have an Astron VS-35, ten dollars more than the RS-35,
and it has front panel adjustable voltage to 15 volts and
adjustable current limiting.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
--
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Re: [Elecraft] ASTRON PS and KX1

2006-11-02 Thread Bob Nielsen


On Nov 2, 2006, at 12:00 PM, Jack Regan wrote:


Elecrafters,



While reading the thread re: charging batteries I saw the note re:  
adjusting

the Astron.

It occured to me that I could bump the ouput up from 13.8 to the  
"legal

limit" for my KX1.  The goal of course is "more power" out!



Is this a bad idea?  I say "bad" because I know that many will say  
that
small increases in power are not of much value given the nature of  
decibels
and the human hear, but unless this is a "bad" idea, I prefer to  
experiment

and see what results I get!



The ads for my RS-70M say it is adjustabe and my schematic shows a  
20K ohm
pot on the input to the V meter  and a 500 ohm pot on the input to  
the I
meter.  I have not popped the top of the ps yet so I don't know  
what visual
inspection will reveal.  After I get some feedback on my idea I'll  
take a

look and see what I can do!



BTW, my Kenwood TS-570D specifies 13.8 VDC plus or minus 15%.  This  
gives me
a ceiling on 15.87.  I am only going to 14.2 for KX1!  I run them  
both of

the RS-70M when I am operating from home.


Those pots are for calibrating the meters and shouldn't be touched.   
There will be another pot which goes to pin 4 of the 723 ic which  
controls the voltage.  I don't know how much voltage increase you can  
get by adjusting it, but suspect you should easily be able to set the  
supply for 14.2 volts.


I set my Alinco DM-330 supply (front panel voltage adjusment) to 14.2  
and it works fine that way with both my K2 and my TS-570D.


Bob, N7XY

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RE: [Elecraft] ASTRON PS and KX1

2006-11-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Unless you're going to double your power, it's hardly worth the effort from
a technical point of view. Doubling the power raises you signal by what is
considered by communications specialists to be a "just barely discernable
change" in an on-air signal. (Yes, I know that is the definition of one
decibel under audio laboratory conditions, but communications engineers have
long used 3 dB or a 2:1 power change as the standard for a barely
discernable change in "on air" conditions where there is some QSB, always
some background QRN, etc. )

A 3 dB power change (2:1 change in power) is also about 1/2 of one S-unit on
most meters. 

Sure, it's good practice to pursue good efficiency and take steps not to
waste power, but the effect of a change like this are, at best, miniscule.

Now if it stirs up the Mojo in the KX1 because it *feels* like it's getting
out better with another half watt or so, that's another story. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-



Elecrafters,

 

While reading the thread re: charging batteries I saw the note re: adjusting
the Astron.  

It occured to me that I could bump the ouput up from 13.8 to the "legal
limit" for my KX1.  The goal of course is "more power" out!

 

Is this a bad idea?  I say "bad" because I know that many will say that
small increases in power are not of much value given the nature of decibels
and the human hear, but unless this is a "bad" idea, I prefer to experiment
and see what results I get!

 

The ads for my RS-70M say it is adjustabe and my schematic shows a 20K ohm
pot on the input to the V meter  and a 500 ohm pot on the input to the I
meter.  I have not popped the top of the ps yet so I don't know what visual
inspection will reveal.  After I get some feedback on my idea I'll take a
look and see what I can do!

 

BTW, my Kenwood TS-570D specifies 13.8 VDC plus or minus 15%.  This gives me
a ceiling on 15.87.  I am only going to 14.2 for KX1!  I run them both of
the RS-70M when I am operating from home.

 

Thanks,

Jack, AE6GC

_

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RE: [Elecraft] ASTRON PS and KX1

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jack,

The specification for the KX1 power is 7 to 14 volts with a recommendation
of 8 volts minimum.

So yes, you CAN increase the power supply voltage safely, but ask if it is
really worth it.  A typical KX1 will develop about 4 watts with a 14 volt
power source, and 3.5 to 3.8 watts with 12 to 13.8 volts.  There will also
be an increase in heating of the output transistor and the case may feel a
bit warmer to the touch.

An increase of 0.5 watts (from 3.5 watts to 4.0 watts) is only 0.58 dB if my
calculator did it right, and that small increase would not likely be
noticable at the receiving end.  The minimum change in power level that will
increase communication effectiveness is considered 3 dB (only half an
S-unit) - and that means doubling the power - so if your current power is 2
watts and increasing the voltage brings it to 4 watts, then that is
worthwhile - anything less is not usually considered worth the expense nor
the inconvenience.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> While reading the thread re: charging batteries I saw the note
> re: adjusting
> the Astron.
>
> It occured to me that I could bump the ouput up from 13.8 to the "legal
> limit" for my KX1.  The goal of course is "more power" out!
>
>
>
> Is this a bad idea?  I say "bad" because I know that many will say that
> small increases in power are not of much value given the nature
> of decibels
> and the human hear, but unless this is a "bad" idea, I prefer to
> experiment
> and see what results I get!
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread John R. Lonigro

Don et al:
I've never tried this, but I've been wondering if any protection would 
be given the K2 if there were a reverse-biased diode running from the 
+13.8V input to ground.  Put a 5 amp fuse in the positive line between 
the diode  and the power socket and it should immediately blow if the 
diode senses a reverse hookup.  With a correct hookup, the K2 would get 
the full voltage from the power supply.  My guess is the K2 might still 
experience some damage before the fuse blew, but I'm not smart enough to 
know that for sure and I'm definitely NOT going to try it on mine!  I 
haven't noticed any problems with the series diode.


Just some food for discussion, but let's not have a food fight over it (hi).

73's,

John AA0VE

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Fred,

Not a design glitch IMHO - there is no way that Elecraft can redesign the
float voltage for an SLA battery!! plus:
I for one would not eliminate the series protective diode, so unless someone
comes up with a protective diode with zero voltage drop, we just have to
deal with those two parameters.
  

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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

BAMA has Astron schematics, see if your supply is in the list there
http://bama.sbc.edu/astron.htm

The K2 will provide full band coverage as well as SSB, and double the power,
but it weighs more - the decision will have to be based on your wnats and
desires.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Thanks, Don & Tom, for your help.  Now I'll scout around the web
> for the Astron
> schematic and try to find that pot.
>
> I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places
> with me or to
> build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery).  The
> K2 cover is
> cheaper, the K1 building is more fun.
>
> 73,
> Mike  ab3ap
>

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-02 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

I have now done the resistor mod to no effect and will probably revert 
'cos I don't like how I had to add the 1K0 in series with the base of Q1.

Driving the K2/100 into a dummy load and just using the bar led display I 
see the following:

Set requested power to 30W.  Mode SSB.  SSbA = 2,  SSbC = 2-1, Mic Kenwood 
MC-43C.  Mic jack grounding mod done.

On 80M I see up to three bars ALC.  Set to RF, regular peaks of 50W.

On 40M I see up to seven bars of ALC.  Set to RF, regular peaks of 50W and 
occasional peaks of 70W or more.

On 30M I see up to six bars of ALC. Set to RF, regular peaks of 50W, 
occasional peaks to 60W.

On 20M I see one bar of ALC.  Set to RF, regular peaks to 40W.

18M - 10M, one bar of ALC.  Set to RF, peaks to 40W.

Set mode to CW.  Request 30W.

All bands power peaks to 30W, no overshoot.

I dropped the requested power to 5W thus switching out the KPA100 and 
similar SSB overshoot problems presented.

Conclusion, in it's present state my K2/100 is unusable on 40M SSB with an 
amp.

If this is a common problem then it looks like the KSB2 is in need of some 
serious work unless the excess TX path gain in the 7 - 10MHz spectrum can 
be tamed.  Maybe it also gives a clue to those reasonably frequent Hi 
Current warnings when running barefoot at 100W

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


| Thanks Steve.. I was hoping there was something I could do.
| Do you (or anyone) have the details of the necessary resistor changes?
|
| Don K7FJ
|
|
|
| - Original Message - 
| From: "Steve Kavanagh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
| To: 
| Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 5:55 AM
| Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot
|
|
| >I think Don's observations sound like the problem I
| > and a few others have had. See, for example the
| > symptoms described here:
| >
| > 
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-03/msg00676.html
| >
| > 
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-12/msg00408.html
| >
| > These two, at least, were due to the KSB2 ALC circuit
| > having insufficient attenuation range to control the
| > output of K2/100's which have above-average overall
| > transmit gain on the lower bands.  The fix involves
| > adding a resistor and changing another in the KSB2.
| > Gary Surrency at Elecraft was able to provide me the
| > necessary details.
| >
| > But Mike's problem sounds much less severe.  It might
| > be a marginal case of this effect, I suppose.
| >
| > 73,
| > Steve VE3SMA

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[Elecraft] Now what did I do??

2006-11-02 Thread nr5a
I pulled the KAT-2 out of my K2 because it looks like I've managed to blow 
the diodes out for the 2nd time. How hard is it to remove it? What could I 
possibly screw up? Take the top cover off, pull the 2 cables, take the nuts 
of the 2 bnc connectors and remove the ground lug. I mean what could I 
possibly have done?


Next hooked my T-1 auto tuner in line, went to menu and changed InP to Hand. 
Check it and that works just like its suppose to.


But... my sidetone is gone?? What did I mess up this time 
and how?


Some years aren't my year, maybe 2007 will be better??

Jerry - NR5A 
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RE: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It's not as elegant as having an automatic circuit handle the issue, but one
way to reduce the amount of ALC and associated "overshoot" on 40 is to
reduce the audio to the rig. Switch in the audio attenuator at the MENU or
otherwise reduce the audio to the mic jack until you are getting just one
bar of ALC flickering, or no ALC bar at all, on voice peaks. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
G'day,

I have now done the resistor mod to no effect and will probably revert 
'cos I don't like how I had to add the 1K0 in series with the base of Q1.

Driving the K2/100 into a dummy load and just using the bar led display I 
see the following:

Set requested power to 30W.  Mode SSB.  SSbA = 2,  SSbC = 2-1, Mic Kenwood 
MC-43C.  Mic jack grounding mod done.

On 80M I see up to three bars ALC.  Set to RF, regular peaks of 50W.

On 40M I see up to seven bars of ALC.  Set to RF, regular peaks of 50W and 
occasional peaks of 70W or more.

On 30M I see up to six bars of ALC. Set to RF, regular peaks of 50W, 
occasional peaks to 60W.

On 20M I see one bar of ALC.  Set to RF, regular peaks to 40W.

18M - 10M, one bar of ALC.  Set to RF, peaks to 40W.

Set mode to CW.  Request 30W.

All bands power peaks to 30W, no overshoot.

I dropped the requested power to 5W thus switching out the KPA100 and 
similar SSB overshoot problems presented.

Conclusion, in it's present state my K2/100 is unusable on 40M SSB with an 
amp.

If this is a common problem then it looks like the KSB2 is in need of some 
serious work unless the excess TX path gain in the 7 - 10MHz spectrum can 
be tamed.  Maybe it also gives a clue to those reasonably frequent Hi 
Current warnings when running barefoot at 100W

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


| Thanks Steve.. I was hoping there was something I could do. Do you (or 
| anyone) have the details of the necessary resistor changes?
|
| Don K7FJ
|
|
|
| - Original Message -
| From: "Steve Kavanagh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
| To: 
| Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 5:55 AM
| Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot
|
|
| >I think Don's observations sound like the problem I
| > and a few others have had. See, for example the
| > symptoms described here:
| >
| > 
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-03/msg00676.html
| >
| > 
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-12/msg00408.html
| >
| > These two, at least, were due to the KSB2 ALC circuit having 
| > insufficient attenuation range to control the output of K2/100's 
| > which have above-average overall transmit gain on the lower bands.  
| > The fix involves adding a resistor and changing another in the KSB2.
| > Gary Surrency at Elecraft was able to provide me the
| > necessary details.
| >
| > But Mike's problem sounds much less severe.  It might
| > be a marginal case of this effect, I suppose.
| >
| > 73,
| > Steve VE3SMA

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-02 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

I haven't found any difference switching about from RF to ALC and back to 
my overshoot problem.  Neither any effect by sneaking up on the requested 
power from a previously lower setting or down from a higher setting.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

| > Have you any thoughts about what might be causing
| > Don's K2/100 to behave
| > when he switches the display from RF to ALC?
|
| Yes, that is quite unexpected !  David, M0DHO, brought
| this peculiarity to my attention and I noticed the
| same behaviour on my rig.  I understand it may have to
| do with firmware differences between normal and ALC
| mode operation but I haven't seen a definitive answer.


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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

While that method is used in many instances, remember that 'the transistors
will always protect the fuse!'

I have seen (and created myself ) instances where that parallel diode
will open as soon as it sees a large current impulse due to the reversed
polarity (and before the fuse reacts) and the protection mechanism itself is
gone.  The series diode is much safer for the equipment.

The K2 does have that type protection circuit (RF Board schematic D12) as
well as the series diode, D12 is after the self-resettable fuse, so if you
want to try it, all that is necessary is to bypass D10 with a bit of wire
(not on my K2 please) 

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Don et al:
> I've never tried this, but I've been wondering if any protection would
> be given the K2 if there were a reverse-biased diode running from the
> +13.8V input to ground.  Put a 5 amp fuse in the positive line between
> the diode  and the power socket and it should immediately blow if the
> diode senses a reverse hookup.  With a correct hookup, the K2 would get
> the full voltage from the power supply.  My guess is the K2 might still
> experience some damage before the fuse blew, but I'm not smart enough to
> know that for sure and I'm definitely NOT going to try it on mine!  I
> haven't noticed any problems with the series diode.
>
> Just some food for discussion, but let's not have a food fight
> over it (hi).
>
> 73's,
>
> John AA0VE
>

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RE: [Elecraft] Now what did I do??

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

The most likely answer is: You inadvertently changed the menu parameter for
the sidetone source.

Enter the menu and scroll to 'ST L' - hold EDIT to edit the parameter, and
then tap the DISPLAY button to toggle the sidetone source.  Stop when you
hear the sidetone and exit the menu.

I have heard of at least 3 occurrances of this in the last week - are we
having an epidemic of some kind? .  Maybe the phase of the moon?

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> But... my sidetone is gone?? What did I mess up this time
> and how?
>
> Some years aren't my year, maybe 2007 will be better??
>
> Jerry - NR5A
>

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-02 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

| It's not as elegant as having an automatic circuit handle the issue, but
one
| way to reduce the amount of ALC and associated "overshoot" on 40 is to
| reduce the audio to the rig. Switch in the audio attenuator at the MENU
or
| otherwise reduce the audio to the mic jack until you are getting just
one
| bar of ALC flickering, or no ALC bar at all, on voice peaks.

This I have tried.  Setting the gain to SSbA = 1 reduces the overshoot at
the 70W+ level and reduces the ALC to three bars.  However, it still kicks
up to twice the requested power on occasion.  Not good for my GU74 cathode
that.

So to change from 20M to 40M, maybe in the heat of a contest, I now have
to press Band- twice, tap MENU, tap up to SSbA, hold MENU to select the
SSbA parameter, tap down from 2 to 1, exit MENU, tune the linear, remember
to select a band variable power level much less than I need for CW.

Not the best option methinks, not with modern gear at least, in the old
days it was normal to be acting like a one armed paper hanger, not now.
Band decoders, automatic switching etc.  Maybe I should buy one of those
expensive mikes that don't seem to give enough output, that would do it.
The curse of having one of the few K2's on the planet at has a surplus of
AF gain.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

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[Elecraft] PB Run on Nov 3rd Update

2006-11-02 Thread Ron Polityka

Hello,

The Polar Bear web site has been updated with the latest operating 
information. I sign two new Polar Bear up to the list.


I will be trying to make my 700 QSO from the Appalachian trail. I will make 
a solo hike up to Pulpit Rock just out side of Hamburg, PA. I will be using 
my K1 at 5 watts into a vertical. Hope to work many from the Pulpit Rock on 
the AT.


72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

K1 - SN 01011
K2 - SN 01392


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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Tom McCulloch
I couldn't get thru to the BAMA site but found the schematics at 
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/astron-index.html


I have the RS-35M, and wasn't aware of the 13.8 volts needed for full 
charge, so I'll be \inside the Astron this weekend. (looks like R 104 on the 
RS-35M)


Thanks for the info.

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103



- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mike Markowski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 5:37 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question



Mike,

BAMA has Astron schematics, see if your supply is in the list there
http://bama.sbc.edu/astron.htm

The K2 will provide full band coverage as well as SSB, and double the 
power,

but it weighs more - the decision will have to be based on your wnats and
desires.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

Thanks, Don & Tom, for your help.  Now I'll scout around the web
for the Astron
schematic and try to find that pot.

I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places
with me or to
build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery).  The
K2 cover is
cheaper, the K1 building is more fun.

73,
Mike  ab3ap



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2006-11-02 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Ron AC7AC wrote:

That info has never been confirmed as far as I know and they've been around
for half a century according to some reports.

Of course, the simple explanation is probably the right explanation: a
propagation beacon that tells various stations which frequencies to use at a
given time. Station "F" that's now on 7039.24 is supposed to be Vladivostok
which fits with the signal being heard on the west coast of the USA at this
time.

So I'll retract my use of "plausible" and instead say that I've yet to hear
a confirmed explanation.

Jack's right: the ones near the QRP freq on 40 are a darned nuisance.



I can confirm that in the mid '50s the 'Letter' stations were around, and 
when I was in Canada at the time there was one of them sending 'C' at the 
bottom end of 20m. Its frequency became a popular spot for QSOs or calling 
CQ, but the wretched thing would not move!


I have never heard a 'F' here on 40m even when the UA0s and JAs are coming 
through, 'D' and 'S' are close to 7039 at the moment (03:00Z), along with an 
ITU beacon which is located in Italy.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD







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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!

It's not. It's actually a very good design.

  Why would
> 
> one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
> up for it?  

Because it's what is needed.

Circuit needs a mod.
> 
> 
No!

Elecraft rigs are, above all else, QRP CW rigs. They are meant to be as 
portable as possible, which is why the small size and provision for internal 
battery.

The battery needs a certain voltage for charging. That's determined by the 
type of battery used, and the power supply/charger must be adjusted to deal 
with 
it, because the battery is not adjustable.

The blocking diode is a special low-drop part, to waste the minimum of power. 
It serves two purposes: 

1) to protect the rig from reverse-polarity applied to the power input jack, 

2) To prevent discharging the internal battery into an external load. 

In portable operation, and even at home, the diode prevents a lot of possible 
problems. The design is very well thought out and needs no changes.

There's nothing magic about 13.8 volts, btw, 

73 de Jim, N2EY 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-02 Thread John Anderson AF9T

Doing a small expedition to North Dakota for cw sweepstakes.
K2/100 to 88ft doublet and KJ7U screwdriver.
Callsign will be K0NDX.
73, John AF9T


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.23/513 - Release Date: 11/2/2006

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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Tom McCulloch

I want to make sure I'm following this.  I

need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode.  Is that 
correct?


Thanks
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103



- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question



In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!


It's not. It's actually a very good design.

 Why would


one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
up for it?


Because it's what is needed.

Circuit needs a mod.




No!

Elecraft rigs are, above all else, QRP CW rigs. They are meant to be as
portable as possible, which is why the small size and provision for 
internal

battery.

The battery needs a certain voltage for charging. That's determined by the
type of battery used, and the power supply/charger must be adjusted to 
deal with

it, because the battery is not adjustable.

The blocking diode is a special low-drop part, to waste the minimum of 
power.

It serves two purposes:

1) to protect the rig from reverse-polarity applied to the power input 
jack,


2) To prevent discharging the internal battery into an external load.

In portable operation, and even at home, the diode prevents a lot of 
possible

problems. The design is very well thought out and needs no changes.

There's nothing magic about 13.8 volts, btw,

73 de Jim, N2EY
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RE: [Elecraft] CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-02 Thread Craig D. Smith
<> Doing a small expedition to North Dakota for cw sweepstakes.

Good deal - we need lots of ND stations!   Thanks, John!!

  ... Craig   AC0DS


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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Douglas Todd

Take a look at the charging specifications from the datasheet:

http://www.powerfactorinc.com/Batteries/ps-1229.htm

It appears that the 100 - 200 mv drop across the shockey diode is 
acceptable. This lowers the 13.8 volt output from the power supply to 13.6 
to 13.7 volts. The float voltage can go as low as 13.5 volts across the 
battery terminals.




Doug (KE7GYQ)



- Original Message - 
From: "Tom McCulloch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question



I want to make sure I'm following this.  I

need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode.  Is that 
correct?


Thanks
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103



- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question



In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!


It's not. It's actually a very good design.

 Why would


one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
up for it?


Because it's what is needed.

Circuit needs a mod.




No!

Elecraft rigs are, above all else, QRP CW rigs. They are meant to be as
portable as possible, which is why the small size and provision for 
internal

battery.

The battery needs a certain voltage for charging. That's determined by 
the
type of battery used, and the power supply/charger must be adjusted to 
deal with

it, because the battery is not adjustable.

The blocking diode is a special low-drop part, to waste the minimum of 
power.

It serves two purposes:

1) to protect the rig from reverse-polarity applied to the power input 
jack,


2) To prevent discharging the internal battery into an external load.

In portable operation, and even at home, the diode prevents a lot of 
possible

problems. The design is very well thought out and needs no changes.

There's nothing magic about 13.8 volts, btw,

73 de Jim, N2EY
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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

Correct - That is usually the goal - BUT, if one wants to get 'picky' about
the real voltage required, that will depend on the temperature, state of
charge in the battery, the particular battery characteristics, and a whole
lot of other variables, specified or not.

So, the 13.8 volts can be regarded as a workable average - the actual
requirement for a particular battery will vary with the particular
circumstance - which gives rise to a +/- 0.2 (or 0.3) volt variation that is
sometimes mentioned.  One battery could require 13.6 volts while another
could require 14.0.  Sorry about any confusion, but such are the facts -
every rule has an exception that might apply in some cases, one could go
nuts trying to get everything exactly right, but with so many variables,
reality (and sensibility) force us to deal with average conditions unless we
have other specific details in hand.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I want to make sure I'm following this.  I
>
>  need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode.  Is that
> correct?
>
> Thanks
> Tom
> WB2QDG
> K2 1103
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.23/513 - Release Date: 11/2/2006
>
>

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