RE: [Elecraft] First foray into K2 in digital mode...power source
Leigh and all, One would be surprised at the number of 'sneak' ground paths that can exist in any ham station installation that involves multiple boxes. Separate powering for the individual units is always a good idea to help minimize those ground paths - especially in such things as soundcard interfaces. If one thinks in terms of the miniscule voltages that are used at microphone input levels, consider what only a few microvolts of AC coupled into the box to box difference in ground levels can inject onto the mic line. These kind of problems can be quite frustrating to track down. Yes, they can be 'cured', but at what cost? Powering everything from a single Rigrunner (or equivalent) may or not be the best way to do things - 'It All Depends'. Temporary battery power (using separate batteries) is a good method for chasing down the problem spots. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I found that if I power the SL1+ from the same 12v that powers the K2, I get ground loop noise. I haven't tried pulling power out of the mic jack. I use a small battery. But these days when I use it with my K2 I use the RS232 rig control for keying and don't turn the SL1+ on at all, just using it for the isolation. Leigh/WA5ZNU -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.9/571 - Release Date: 12/5/2006 11:50 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Heil Handi Mic
While at Pacificon this fall I purchased a Heil Handi-Mic for my K2 #0261. I've read this list for a long time now and know about the K2's need for a mic with higher-than-normal output. Researching the Handi-Mic on-line I expected the model HM-iC (for Icom) would be the right choice. So before making the purchase I went to the Elecraft booth and asked THE MAN, Eric Schwartz, and he said that's the one to get. Well, I haven't found out for sure yet because I still need to build my KSB2 but I have no doubt that I got the right info from the right man. Don's response (below) seems to agree. I also purchased the Heil CH-1K (Kenwood) cable to go with it, the plug matches the K2 and Eric said I can then use the default setting on the KSB2 header. It should be a nice setup. 73, Gene K6TTM -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 10:57 AM To: Frank Van Cleef W1WCG; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Heil Handi Mic Frank, Unfortunately the Heil HC-4 and HC-5 elements have lower output than typical mics. There is one in the Handi-Mic set that should work well with the K2 - and that is the one for the Icom (Heil number HM-iC) perhaps you could arrange an exchange. In general the Icom mics use an electret element with high output level - the audio input needs of the K2 and the Icom are similar. If you do wish to retain the HC-5 element, then your best choice is to use a pre-amp. There are work-arounds such as changing the value of KSB2 R14, but IMHO, the best all-around solution is to use a pre-amp and set the pre-amp gain to provide the output needed by the K2. If I recall correctly, the proper output level is -40 dBm. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I recently acquired a Heil Handi-Mic with the HC-5 element, intending to use it with a new K2 radio (#5510). I used straight-across wiring for the configuration connector in the front panel since the Handi-Mic is equipped with a cable wired for Kenwood mikes. No resistor from pin 1 to pin 6 since the element is dynamic. The mike does work, but the output seems low -- the ALC indication barely lights the top bar, and the RF output barely shows on the louder peaks. A MH-2 mike shows a little more output, though not that much more. The over-all feeling is that the Handi-Mic has a relatively low output level and may need a preamp to work properly with the K2. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/567 - Release Date: 12/4/2006 7:18 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Microphones for K2
Hi! I'm currently finishing up K2 #5757 and plan to add SSB in the near future. I currently have an Icom 746 and the Heil Pro-set Ic. I'm wondering if I'll be able to use that headset with the K2? From what I've read, it sounds like the right choice as the mike output is higher for both the Icom and K2, but thought I'd ask to make sure. Also, I have an old D-104 that I used to use with my Heath HX-10 (no, I didn't build it, but it's as old as I am, was my first xmtr, and I just can't bring myself to sell it grin). Is it difficult to make this mike work with the K2? Thanks for any help! Jim, WD9HBC KX1 #1517 K2 #5757 *** While at Pacificon this fall I purchased a Heil Handi-Mic for my K2 #0261. I've read this list for a long time now and know about the K2's need for a mic with higher-than-normal output. Researching the Handi-Mic on-line I expected the model HM-iC (for Icom) would be the right choice. So before making the purchase I went to the Elecraft booth and asked THE MAN, Eric Schwartz, and he said that's the one to get. Well, I haven't found out for sure yet because I still need to build my KSB2 but I have no doubt that I got the right info from the right man. Don's response (below) seems to agree. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] KX1 Acting Up
Make sure U1 MCU is seated in socket properly. Mine had a tendency to work itself out some on occasions. Other than that I am temporarily at a loss. Paul WD8OJL Keith said: I recently built a KX1 and it went together smoothly with no real problems. I made a few QSO's and it seemed to work just fine. I turned it on today and it is acting up on me. I was on battery power and switched to a power supply to see if that helped, but no luck. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Major Solar Flare - X9 Class
MAJOR SOLAR FLARE: Earth-orbiting satellites detected a powerful X-class solar flare this morning, Dec. 5th, at 10:35 Universal Time. The source: big, new sunspot 929, which is emerging over the Sun's eastern limb. Because of the sunspot's position near the limb, this flare was not Earth-directed. Future eruptions could be, however, because the Sun's spin is turning the spot toward Earth. Sunspot 929 will be visible for the next two weeks as it glides across the solar disk. Please visit http://spaceweather.com for more information and updates. -- Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 operation - is this normal?
I noticed some things with the KPA100 that I wasn't expecting. Are these normal? 1. Power output fluctuated during a single CW TX session. I'll see the PO indicator on the K2 go up down by 1 LED on a frequent basis (maybe switching every few seconds). Thinking that I was right on the edge of an LED transition or something, I changed the power output level. The behavior continued at the new higher power level. I also see the output power on my outboard power meter change. The changes appear to be fairly small, maybe 10 watts at the 100 watt level. Is this normal? 2. Fan came on. My shack is a chilly 62 degrees F. I set the temp in the K2 per the instructions. During a CW QSO, the fan came on about 1/2 way through my TX session and stayed on for about 1/2 of the other guy's TX session. Power out was 100 watts, SWR is flat enough to not deflect the REV meter on the Palstar. The heat sink did feel warmer than the room but no way I'd say it was hot. Is this all normal or is there an issue? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] KX1 Acting Up
This is a bit embarrassing. I did the solder reflow for the MCU and it got back to normal as I posted in my other email. A few minutes later..it did it again but this time I had it hooked up to a tuner and saw the lights flashing on the tuner like it was trying to transmit. Huh? What was going on? Then all of a sudden I realized that I had plugged the headphones into the keyer jack. Duh. Take that out and all is well. I was so impressed with myself that I figured out what solder to reflow and fix it...then the truth comes out. BTW...I got an email from Jerry (WA2DKG) who guessed what I was doing with the headphones in the keyer jack. It was a good call on his part...and I have to wonder if he had the same issue! The good part is that I can get back to building and installing the ATU board. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] W-1 Needs a Peak Hold function
Hi Bob, Thanks for the great feedback! Actually the W1 already has the capability of displaying a peak hold led as you described. It is enabled via the W1 serial command set and can be stored permanently in eeprom so that it is on by default each time you power up your W1. (Hint: Use the P command followed by the W command.) Take a look at the W1 manual for a full description of the W1 serial command set and how to communicate with the W1 using a terminal program like Hyperterminal. We're also adding this command to the next version of the W1 Windows control program to make it easier to set it up on the W1. Watch our web site in the next week for the latest version :-) 73, Eric [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi everybody. My little W-1 has been getting a bit of a workout around here. I think this the best piece of Elecraft test equipment yet! An option that I'd really like to see would be a peak hold indication for checking voice modulated output of my K2. Kind of a fast attack/ slow decay. For those of us without a 'scope this would seem to be just the ticket. Just a little bit of program enhancement should do it. 73s, Bob K7HBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil Handi Mic
Sounds like that will work perfectly. :-) Make sure you add the microphone bias resistor to the K2 for this mic. 73, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ http://www.elecraft.com Gene Langendorff wrote: While at Pacificon this fall I purchased a Heil Handi-Mic for my K2 #0261. I've read this list for a long time now and know about the K2's need for a mic with higher-than-normal output. Researching the Handi-Mic on-line I expected the model HM-iC (for Icom) would be the right choice. So before making the purchase I went to the Elecraft booth and asked THE MAN, Eric Schwartz, and he said that's the one to get. Well, I haven't found out for sure yet because I still need to build my KSB2 but I have no doubt that I got the right info from the right man. Don's response (below) seems to agree. I also purchased the Heil CH-1K (Kenwood) cable to go with it, the plug matches the K2 and Eric said I can then use the default setting on the KSB2 header. It should be a nice setup. 73, Gene K6TTM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Problem 12 Watts Out With Power Control Fully CCW - solved
With a few helpfull tips from Don Wilhelm - W3FPR I was able to quickly resolve my K2 power output problem. The voltage measured at diode D9 cathode (marked end) on the RF board was 2.30 volts DC. After R66 (2.7K) it was 0.0 volts. The microprocessor was NOT getting the RF output signal via VRFDET. The interal RF output meter was not indicating any output power. During the build I installed the RG174 coax at signal RF for the K60XV Rework Eliminator. When soldering the braid on the other end to L4 the center conductor shorted to the braid grounding the signal from D9 - operator error. Correcting that problem I now get 10 watts out at 2.1 amps on 40 meters with the power control set to 10 watts. The power control changes the output power. The internal RF output meter now displays output power correctly. I am now proceeding to complete the Part III test. Best, Joe Szczubelek - K9DMV --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe, The initial problem to be solved is that there is no indication of power output being fed back to the K2 microprocessor. The most likely source is a bad solder connection and the second most likely is a misplaced component. Keep your testing periods short, ignore the high current messages for now, and proceed as follows: Start your search at RF Board diode D9 - if all is well at that point, there will be a DC voltage during transmit periods - how large it is depends on the amount of RF output, for now just be certain you have a good solid DC voltage there - anything over a volt or so will indicate that the RF Output Detector is working. Next point is on the Control Board - the VFRDET signal which appears at pin 10 of P4 - the DC voltage during transmit should be about the same as you measured at the cathode of D9. Lastly, check the VRFDET signal at the microprocessor - U6 pin 2. The voltage should be about the same as at P4 pin 10 if R12 is properly in place. Let us know where the VRFDET signal path is broken. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- The build for K2 ser # 5628 has been going well until I got to the Alignment and Test Part III 40 meter transmitter alignment section. Problem: With current set to 2.0 AMPS and the power control fully CCW I measured 7 watts on an external wattmeter. The internal wattmeter had NO indication. When I press the tune control with the display set for voltage and current I see 13.3 volts and 1.88 amps. The current will start to slowly rise at .02 amps per second and will reach 2.00 amps in about 10 seconds and the HI CURRENT message will appear with 7 watts output. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/567 - Release Date: 12/4/2006 7:18 AM Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Contest Soapbox link
Here's a link from mwdink of 3830 http://www.eskimo.com/~mwdink/3830/ He's made text journals of of the last two major contest's soapbox comments. All sorts of fun info in these. Believe it or not, my antennas were very simple. I used a full size wire vertical on 80 with two raised radials (about 10' above ground) in a V shape (only supports I had. For 160, I used a top loaded hastily erected 48' wire vertical. I did use a 295' coax beverage for 80m this time around and it helped. I tried using the same on 160, but only to drop the static on Friday night. Used the Tee for Rx the rest of the weekend. Wasn't thrilled with the performance of the beverage on 160. I give my K2 a lot of credit for hearing more than I could work. Cheers and thanks for all the QSOs! Julius n2wn Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Did You Know.....
Did you know your K2 has a squelch? I installed the KIO2 module in my K2 and proceded to connect it to my laptop running Ham Radio Deluxe. I'm impressed with the K2 interface in HRD. All the controls are represented either in buttons or sliders and band changes are a ckick away. I found a strange slider control that is has no corresponding front panel control on the K2, SQUELCH. I adjusted this slider and low and behold, there is squelch in the K2! I'm not sure what good squelch is when operating CW or SSB, but it is there. How do we make this control available when not running conputer control? Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 operation - is this normal?
Darwin, Keith wrote: I noticed some things with the KPA100 that I wasn't expecting. Are these normal? 1. Power output fluctuated during a single CW TX session. I'll see the PO indicator on the K2 go up down by 1 LED on a frequent basis (maybe switching every few seconds). Thinking that I was right on the edge of an LED transition or something, I changed the power output level. The behavior continued at the new higher power level. I also see the output power on my outboard power meter change. The changes appear to be fairly small, maybe 10 watts at the 100 watt level. Is this normal? Yes, but there's a mod available to reduce the variation. See http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-06/msg00550.html and http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Power_Control_Mod.html 2. Fan came on. My shack is a chilly 62 degrees F. I set the temp in the K2 per the instructions. During a CW QSO, the fan came on about 1/2 way through my TX session and stayed on for about 1/2 of the other guy's TX session. Power out was 100 watts, SWR is flat enough to not deflect the REV meter on the Palstar. The heat sink did feel warmer than the room but no way I'd say it was hot. Is this all normal or is there an issue? Yes, I think so. See what others say. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Did You Know.....
Mark, The squelch on/off and level control is the first entry of the secondary menu - enter the menu and tap display to see it. The level corresponds with the number of bars in the S-meter required to open squelch. Squelch is used by default during scanning unless you turn squelch off. See the scanning section of the manual. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Did you know your K2 has a squelch? I installed the KIO2 module in my K2 and proceded to connect it to my laptop running Ham Radio Deluxe. I'm impressed with the K2 interface in HRD. All the controls are represented either in buttons or sliders and band changes are a ckick away. I found a strange slider control that is has no corresponding front panel control on the K2, SQUELCH. I adjusted this slider and low and behold, there is squelch in the K2! I'm not sure what good squelch is when operating CW or SSB, but it is there. How do we make this control available when not running conputer control? Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.9/571 - Release Date: 12/5/2006 11:50 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
As I'm thinking about trying to operate the K2/100 so the fan doesn't run (or doesn't make noise) I wonder some things. First, blowing air out of a box cools the box better than blowing air into it. I'm half surprised the fan blows in. I suppose it is to direct the stream of air on the finals. Still, I wonder about doing it differently. What about thermal grease? There is only a non-grease pad between the transistors and the heat sink. Would a dab of grease conduct more heat away from the transistor? I have some fancy silver stuff left over from my computer assembly activities. What power level should I run if I don't want the fan to come on? 75 Watts? 50, 30, 12? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 operation - is this normal?
Kieth, You can increase the value of R98 on the bottom of the RF Board to reduce the power fluctuation, but don't go so high that the power output on the higher bands is reduced substantially. Some experimentation may be in order. The fan may come on at strange times if the menu CAL tPA parameter is not set correctly. The manual tells you to set it to the room temperature in degrees Celcius - but there is a big dependency in doing that - the heat sink must be at the same temperature as the room. While the heat sink will eventually acclimate to the room temperature, it will take a bit of time. If you want to circumvent waiting for the heat simk to acclimate, you can measure the temperature of the heat sink itself and set CAL tPA accordingly. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I noticed some things with the KPA100 that I wasn't expecting. Are these normal? 1. Power output fluctuated during a single CW TX session. I'll see the PO indicator on the K2 go up down by 1 LED on a frequent basis (maybe switching every few seconds). Thinking that I was right on the edge of an LED transition or something, I changed the power output level. The behavior continued at the new higher power level. I also see the output power on my outboard power meter change. The changes appear to be fairly small, maybe 10 watts at the 100 watt level. Is this normal? 2. Fan came on. My shack is a chilly 62 degrees F. I set the temp in the K2 per the instructions. During a CW QSO, the fan came on about 1/2 way through my TX session and stayed on for about 1/2 of the other guy's TX session. Power out was 100 watts, SWR is flat enough to not deflect the REV meter on the Palstar. The heat sink did feel warmer than the room but no way I'd say it was hot. Is this all normal or is there an issue? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.9/571 - Release Date: 12/5/2006 11:50 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
The question of grease vs. pads came up before and Eric answered it as follows: We officially recommend that you use the thermal pads supplied with the KPA100 kit instead of grease. They consist of a very efficient thermally conductive compound coated on both sides a a very thin aluminum sheet. The compound reflows when the transistors get hot the first time and fills all of the small air gaps between the devices and the heatsink. It is very effective and provides a better thermal bond in most cases than manual application of thermal grease. 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft = You aren't the only one to be bothered by what I call the whizzer on the back of the K2, although I confess I'm getting used to it. Sort of... The fan doesn't just blow air into the box, it forces air into the space between the KPA100 shield and the KPA100 heat sink, which includes the KPA100 PCB of course. The air exits at the end of the heat sink nearest the front panel, flowing out through the spaces between the heat sink fins. One thing some builders have done is to put a large muffin fan on top of the heat sink. A larger, slower speed fan should be a lot quieter. Of course, how quickly the fan comes on depends upon the ambient temperature in the shack and the duty cycle as well as the power level and efficiency of the finals. I don't know if anyone has run tests to see what the minimum fan action has to be, but I know that I've run tests with my K2/100 that involved keying it so much I couldn't leave my hand on the heat sink. No harm was done to the KPA100 in those tests. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- As I'm thinking about trying to operate the K2/100 so the fan doesn't run (or doesn't make noise) I wonder some things. First, blowing air out of a box cools the box better than blowing air into it. I'm half surprised the fan blows in. I suppose it is to direct the stream of air on the finals. Still, I wonder about doing it differently. What about thermal grease? There is only a non-grease pad between the transistors and the heat sink. Would a dab of grease conduct more heat away from the transistor? I have some fancy silver stuff left over from my computer assembly activities. What power level should I run if I don't want the fan to come on? 75 Watts? 50, 30, 12? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
Hi Keith, The thermal pads actually conduct more heat away than thermal grease. The pads used these days are quite impressive. A couple of years ago an engineer Friend of mine and I had this discussion and he then went out and dug up enough data to have me buried for a week. Tom W8AMZ Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As I'm thinking about trying to operate the K2/100 so the fan doesn't run (or doesn't make noise) I wonder some things. First, blowing air out of a box cools the box better than blowing air into it. I'm half surprised the fan blows in. I suppose it is to direct the stream of air on the finals. Still, I wonder about doing it differently. What about thermal grease? There is only a non-grease pad between the transistors and the heat sink. Would a dab of grease conduct more heat away from the transistor? I have some fancy silver stuff left over from my computer assembly activities. What power level should I run if I don't want the fan to come on? 75 Watts? 50, 30, 12? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Integrated paddles for K1?
Hi all, I'm planning a K1 purchase and am considering buying the tilt stand whose description says, You can also attach a lightweight keyer paddle directly to the stand. That sounds like a nice compact set up and a web search turned up two sets of K1-ready paddles, one from www.paddlette.com and one from www.palm-radio.de. Can anyone speak to the quality of those paddles? I wonder if they're so lightweight that they're fragile. And are there others I should consider? Thanks! Mike ab3ap k2-4834 k1- :-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
Whizzer - what a good name. It actually startled me when it came on and the noise interfered a bit with copy of the weak station I was working. I may have to go to closed headphones. The MEs here at work tell me similar things. Some of the pads are better than grease. Good, grease is a PITN (neck) to work with. I'm also glad to hear the pad reflows when it gets hot the first time. That answers a concern I had that maybe things just aren't tight enough yet. I have a few muffin fans left over from a PC build-up. I think I'll set something up. The 60 deg air in my basement plus some fan-action should keep the whizzer under control ... Thanks Ron others. 73! - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] You aren't the only one to be bothered by what I call the whizzer on the back of the K2, although I confess I'm getting used to it. Sort of... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Integrated paddles for K1?
I have the Palm Mini Paddle, Mike, and LOVE IT! I bought it for portable operation with my K2 but have ended up using it at the home QRH as well at the main station. I'm thinking of buying a second one so I can keep one in the car. Very rugged and reliable with good keying action. Make sure you get the magnetic base attachment, as this makes for very slick and flexible mounting arrangements. They are available from Morse Express in Denver as well as other places. 73 ... Craig AC0DS That sounds like a nice compact set up and a web search turned up two sets of K1-ready paddles, one from www.paddlette.com and one from www.palm-radio.de.Can anyone speak to the quality of those paddles? I wonder if they're so lightweight that they're fragile ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part III
I have a K2 and have completed up to page 74. On page 75 the 40-Meter Transmitter Alignment did not work. When in TUNE, my readings are .3 on the built-in wattmeter. Adjusting L1 and L2 does not make any change. If you cannot get power output to 2.0 watts or higher, see Troubleshooting. There is no increase. There is a 50 ohm dummy load hooked to the antenna bnc. Could someone please let me know if there is MENUE or EDIT function that may not be enabled? Should I go directly to the Trouble shooting and take measurements? Thank you, Dale, kc9cwb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Integrated paddles for K1?
Hi Mike! I have the Palm Paddle tapped and screwed to the side of my K2. My K1 also had one expoxied to the right side of the radio. I forgot who on this list bought my K1-4 but he can tell you his experience. There are magnets too but they don't stick well to the aluminum cabinet of the K1. I had one that stuck really well to the steel case of my FT-817. They are light for stand-alone use but before I mounted them permanantly I used the old straight key two handed keying technique...hold the key/paddle with left hand while sending with the right. 8-) Very light touch..I like them now better than my Brown Brothers. The paddles* themselves slide turtle-like inside the hard protective shell when not in use. 73 de Tom K2TA *while many people, myself included, refer to the entire key as a keyer paddle when I refer to the lever/finger-pad assembly I use the term paddle if it is a single lever movement and paddles if there are two independent finger pads...as in ping-pong paddles. - Original Message - From: Mike Markowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 1:45 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Integrated paddles for K1? Hi all, I'm planning a K1 purchase and am considering buying the tilt stand whose description says, You can also attach a lightweight keyer paddle directly to the stand. That sounds like a nice compact set up and a web search turned up two sets of K1-ready paddles, one from www.paddlette.com and one from www.palm-radio.de. Can anyone speak to the quality of those paddles? I wonder if they're so lightweight that they're fragile. And are there others I should consider? Thanks! Mike ab3ap k2-4834 k1- :-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part III
Dale, Go directly to troubleshooting to locate the source of the failure - you may have to get into the Transmit Signal Tracing section of Troubleshooting (look following the tables). Once you locate the failing stage, it will be easy to locate the failing component (we can help at that point - right now all we can say is that 'It's broke' G). All in all, you will most likely find a bad solder connection or unsoldered connection, and the second most likely is that you will find an incorrectly placed component. So it may be a good idea to try a good visual inspection first, you may get lucky and not have to wade through the troubleshooting. When you do get into the troubleshooting, go to section 155 Power output low and follow the steps there - do not skip around (shotgunning), do things in order and your progress will be much faster. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a K2 and have completed up to page 74. On page 75 the 40-Meter Transmitter Alignment did not work. When in TUNE, my readings are .3 on the built-in wattmeter. Adjusting L1 and L2 does not make any change. If you cannot get power output to 2.0 watts or higher, see Troubleshooting. There is no increase. There is a 50 ohm dummy load hooked to the antenna bnc. Could someone please let me know if there is MENUE or EDIT function that may not be enabled? Should I go directly to the Trouble shooting and take measurements? -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.9/571 - Release Date: 12/5/2006 11:50 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: Basic K2
Looking for a basic K2, with at least the 160 module in it. If you have something like this for sale please send details such as serial number, mods, options, and price shipped priority mail to zip 45324. I may be interested in trading a Ten Tec Argonaut V for the right deal. Thanks Tim NZ8J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] First foray into K2 in digital mode...power source
Hi, Just received a Tigertronics SL 1+ interface. The instructions say that it requires 6.75 to 15VDC. I see in the K2 manual that pin 6 of the mic connector has 5VDC. Can that be used? Do I need a connector to the RS232? All responses greatly appreciated (as usual) John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
I was playing around with the KAT100 a couple of nights ago and was leaving the K2/100 on tune for periods of 15 - 20 seconds at a time (20W) at intervals through several bands. After a few minutes, the whizzer fired up its engine, so if your average Tx power is 20W then you have maybe 5 mins before the little hovercraft starts up. I note it blows air INTO the KPA, but there doesn't appear to be much by way of provision for the warmed air to get out, so I guess oscillators are going to move around quite a bit when the warm air circulates around and around. Maybe a nice, quiet ex-computer muffin fan sitting on top of the heatsink might be a better way of cooling the PA? 73 Dave L G3TJP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First foray into K2 in digital mode...power source
I found that if I power the SL1+ from the same 12v that powers the K2, I get ground loop noise. I haven't tried pulling power out of the mic jack. I use a small battery. But these days when I use it with my K2 I use the RS232 rig control for keying and don't turn the SL1+ on at all, just using it for the isolation. Leigh/WA5ZNU On Tue, 5 Dec 2006 3:23 pm, John Wiener wrote: Hi, Just received a Tigertronics SL 1+ interface. The instructions say that it requires 6.75 to 15VDC. I see in the K2 manual that pin 6 of the mic connector has 5VDC. Can that be used? Do I need a connector to the RS232? All responses greatly appreciated (as usual) John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: KX1 12V Internal Battery
Hello all, I just received the two PCBs to install in my Elecraft KX1 bottom cover. I also purchased six AA 3.7V Li-Po batteries. I plan to wire the two 11.8v/750mah packs in parallel so I'll end up with a 11.8V/1.5AH internal battery. One PCB will be wired to the battery pack to protect it. The other PCB is used as a gas gauge to show the charge on the battery. All this will fit on the bottom cover! I'll rewire the power plug so I can charge the battery without taking the cover off. When I'm finished pimping-out my KX1 Battery, I'll post pictures on my KX1 Pimp Pot Web Page for all to view. 72, Ed,WA3WSJ aka Kangaroo Ed ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
Dave, In heat removal, the name of the game is air circulation, which is different than just 'blowing air' - there must be an escape path for the heated air. In the KPA100 that path is from the back to the front of the unit, the air escapes through the heatsink fins just behind the top of the front panel. If you have something (even a piece of paper) on top of the KPA100, it will block this air flow and reduce the cooling capacity - which in turn will cause the fan to come on earlier than expected. If you have the KAT100 stacked on top of the KPA100 I suggest changing things to place the KAT100 below the K2/100. An easy way to add an auxiliary fan to the KPA100 is to place a muffin fan on top of the heat sink - pulling air away from the heat sink. Even a slow moving fan will help, a DC fan salvaged from a computer will do nicely and you can slow it down with a series resistor. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I was playing around with the KAT100 a couple of nights ago and was leaving the K2/100 on tune for periods of 15 - 20 seconds at a time (20W) at intervals through several bands. After a few minutes, the whizzer fired up its engine, so if your average Tx power is 20W then you have maybe 5 mins before the little hovercraft starts up. I note it blows air INTO the KPA, but there doesn't appear to be much by way of provision for the warmed air to get out, so I guess oscillators are going to move around quite a bit when the warm air circulates around and around. Maybe a nice, quiet ex-computer muffin fan sitting on top of the heatsink might be a better way of cooling the PA? 73 Dave L G3TJP -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.9/571 - Release Date: 12/5/2006 11:50 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
David Lankshear wrote: I note it blows air INTO the KPA, but there doesn't appear to be much by way of provision for the warmed air to get out, so I guess oscillators are going to move around quite a bit when the warm air circulates around and around. Maybe a nice, quiet ex-computer muffin fan sitting on top of the heatsink might be a better way of cooling the PA? The air gets out at the front of the heatsink, and blows across the fins a bit. I like mine to run extra cool, so I attached a muffin fan to the right side of the heatsink, sucking air up through the fins. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #2225 is Down
I would like to thank Don Wilhelm W3FPR for his suggestions. I put the antenna center connector across the junction of D6 and D7. The audio increased considerably with what sounded like atmospheric noise but there were no signals and the VFO readings changed but did not tune in anything. I connected the probe to TP1 and entered CAL FCTR and got a display. I connected the DMM to the left side of R30 and the reading was 8.25 V regardless of band and frequency. I checked the BFO at TP2 and the high and low readings were correct with the right amount of separation. I have removed the the KDSP2 and jumpered the headers so I can get to the PLL part of the board. Now I am going to have to build the RF probe before I can go any further. Thanks again Don. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 160 Still Dead
Hi Don, Here are your latest suggestions and my test results: If you see the blips, then the relays should be getting voltage to the coils. Since the RANT works on 80 meters, your problem may be in the 160/80 meter bandpass filter rather than the k160XV board itself (it may also be in the VFO range select area too). Check the VFO range select first - just because it is easy. Set the K2 to 1800 kHz and measure the frequency at TP1 (counter probe in TP1 and menu to CAL FCTR) - it should be very close to 6715 kHz, if it is not, then check capacitor C75 for proper value 470 pf (471) and good soldering. **Could not do this as I have a newer firmware that only allows CAL PLL on 40M. Then I checked C75 and it was NOT INSTALLED. So I installed it. Appearantly, the module has never worked b4. Then check the bandpass filter additions C13 and C14 (1200 pf [122]). If these are in place and relay K3 is working properly, you should have good 160 meter receive. **C13 was the wrong value so I installed the right value. Once you have 160 meter receive through the RX ANT jack, then you can move on to transmit. If it still does not work after successfully passing all the above tests, look for the problem in the toroid leads on the K160RX board. ** Checked torroid lead and they are fine. ** ALSO, repeaked the inductors for 80M, they were off a bit, but not bad. I did check for ~200 ohms between pins 1 and 10 of the header and no dice, I am seeing an open. Could the relay be bad?? 73, Mark K2QO That is all I can think of at the moment. Mark S. Adams, P.E. Environment, Health Safety University at Buffalo 220 Winspear Avenue Buffalo, NY 14215-1034 Tel: 716.829.3707 ext 25 Cell: 716.863.7229 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100?
From the description of the noise that the fan on your KPA-100 is making, I'd guess you have a defective fan. I never hear the fan on my KPA-100. I have a pretty quiet shack, and operate with the volume fairly low on the K2 and I have only noticed the fan running a few times. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Darwin, Keith Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 12:52 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Thermal control for Q1 / Q2 in KPA100? Whizzer - what a good name. It actually startled me when it came on and the noise interfered a bit with copy of the weak station I was working. I may have to go to closed headphones. The MEs here at work tell me similar things. Some of the pads are better than grease. Good, grease is a PITN (neck) to work with. I'm also glad to hear the pad reflows when it gets hot the first time. That answers a concern I had that maybe things just aren't tight enough yet. I have a few muffin fans left over from a PC build-up. I think I'll set something up. The 60 deg air in my basement plus some fan-action should keep the whizzer under control ... Thanks Ron others. 73! - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] You aren't the only one to be bothered by what I call the whizzer on the back of the K2, although I confess I'm getting used to it. Sort of... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
