RE: [Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to KAT100-2

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hey Tom,
If I'm reading what you wrote correctly, it looks like you have it connected
correctly. Here is a link to Lyle Johnson's website if you don't have it
already: http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html
Go near the bottom of the page. He has some nice pictures of what it all
looks like connected. 

If I remember right, I actually plugged (read muscled) the Aux RF connector
in reverse. Not sure if that could cause what you're seeing. Also not sure
what tuning into an open load would do either.

I'm sure that many on the list brighter than me will give you some good
advice.

Good luck & 73,
Dave W8FGU

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Z
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:55 PM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to KAT100-2
> 
> I am finally getting around to moving my KPA100 from the K2 case to
> the EC2 enclosure that houses my KAT100 tuner. I must be missing
> something obvious - basic K2 appears to work but never accesses ANT2
> and none of the KAT100 SWR lights work (although the AN1/2 LEDs do
> work, and think they are switching).
> 
> Here is what I think are the connections:
> Internal to the EC2:
> AUX connector on KPA100 to AUX header on KAT100 board
> AUX 12V connector on KPA100 to AUX12v connector on KAT100 board
> AUX RF connector on KPA100 to AUX RF connector on KAT100 board
> 
> External connections:
> 12V connected to K2 and KPA100 (but not to KAT100)
> AUX/IO connector from K2 to KPA100 AUX/IO connector
> K2 ANT OUT (BNC) to AUX RF (BNC) on KAT100
> KPA100 RF OUT to KAT100 RF IN
> ANT1 and ANT 2 to my antennas
> 
> When I try to tune, the KAT100 relays do some clicking, but no SWR
> LEDs illuminate. The first time I tried this, I had the KPA100 ANT
> connector open - so hopefully I did not damage anything (was running
> only 20 w TUNE for a few seconds)
> 
> Possible error - do I need to connect the external AUX connector to
> the KAT100 connector, instead of the KPA100 connecotr?
> 
> Any help appreciated.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom KG3V
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[Elecraft] wear out items

[Charles Harpole]

Maybe today's rigs will be discarded to the rear shelf in 5 yrs, but if not, 
here are some things that will make them wear out for the user


and number one on the list is the practice of writing the function of the 
knob or button ON THE KNOB OR BUTTON.  With use, the writing wears off and, 
lacking etched writing, there goes knowledge of that function control.


Irritation number 1 are push buttons that have no annunciator (thing to show 
their "on" state).  Is the button in or out ?  Hey Mr. designer put in a 
"lighted when on" spec on all ur push buttons.  Little things go a long way.


73

Charles Harpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Thom LaCosta]

On Fri, 7 Sep 2007, Donald Rasmussen wrote:


So we've got the K3 copying code, and another sending
the code from memories in perfectly spaced "swing". !

Next request - a WiFi interface at the K3 so it can
email each of the operators with the contents of the
QSO.


Don't forget the thrmal printer for the E-QSLs!




73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO
Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

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[Elecraft] great rigs list

[Charles Harpole]

Yep, correct the FT-101 was added late but we must list the Atlas 210, 
still listed with great rcvr specs.


My 706 criteria was based on the wild wide popularity and an early one with 
"all" bands in a tiny package.


Charles Harpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to KAT100-2

[Tom Z]

I am finally getting around to moving my KPA100 from the K2 case to
the EC2 enclosure that houses my KAT100 tuner. I must be missing
something obvious - basic K2 appears to work but never accesses ANT2
and none of the KAT100 SWR lights work (although the AN1/2 LEDs do
work, and think they are switching).

Here is what I think are the connections:
Internal to the EC2:
AUX connector on KPA100 to AUX header on KAT100 board
AUX 12V connector on KPA100 to AUX12v connector on KAT100 board
AUX RF connector on KPA100 to AUX RF connector on KAT100 board

External connections:
12V connected to K2 and KPA100 (but not to KAT100)
AUX/IO connector from K2 to KPA100 AUX/IO connector
K2 ANT OUT (BNC) to AUX RF (BNC) on KAT100
KPA100 RF OUT to KAT100 RF IN
ANT1 and ANT 2 to my antennas

When I try to tune, the KAT100 relays do some clicking, but no SWR
LEDs illuminate. The first time I tried this, I had the KPA100 ANT
connector open - so hopefully I did not damage anything (was running
only 20 w TUNE for a few seconds)

Possible error - do I need to connect the external AUX connector to
the KAT100 connector, instead of the KPA100 connecotr?

Any help appreciated.

73,

Tom KG3V
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[Elecraft] No power out on SSB with microphone

[David Swain]

For the past couple of years my K2/100 been was working fine, and it still 
works with PSK31, but I noticed a few days ago that when I connect the mic I 
get no measurable power out on SSB. I'm not sure what has caused my K2 (ser. 
03082) to stop putting out any power when used with the mic (MH2). The mic's 
PTT button will key the rig in CW mode, and sideband is working fine with PSK31 
(Reverse RTTY mode on the K2 menu). Since I very rarely use phone (voice) mode, 
the mic is in "like new" condition.
 
I'd appreciate any suggestions for resolving this.
 
Thanks in advance,
David AB9EI


   

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tools to get online.
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Jozef Hand-Boniakowski]

I just have to chime in.  How about an infra red key interface so our 
wonderful bugs, simplex and iambic paddles can have tiny attached infra 
red LEDs to make them "wireless"?  Help eliminate the wire clutter on 
the desk.


Jozef WB2MIC

Donald Rasmussen wrote:

So we've got the K3 copying code, and another sending
the code from memories in perfectly spaced "swing". !

Next request - a WiFi interface at the K3 so it can
email each of the operators with the contents of the
QSO. 


Ah what the heck, I'll just send an email... ;-)


[Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"
Thom LaCosta lacosta at bc 
Fri Sep 7 17:17:49 EDT 2007 


Previous message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" - ACS

Next message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" 


On Fri, 7 Sep 2007, Chris wrote:

  

and Automatic Character Spacing, please.



I'd like auto dot and manual dashunless of course
we could have a swing 
option.


73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO


  

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Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Donald Rasmussen]

So we've got the K3 copying code, and another sending
the code from memories in perfectly spaced "swing". !

Next request - a WiFi interface at the K3 so it can
email each of the operators with the contents of the
QSO. 

Ah what the heck, I'll just send an email... ;-)


[Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"
Thom LaCosta lacosta at bc 
Fri Sep 7 17:17:49 EDT 2007 

Previous message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" - ACS

Next message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" 

On Fri, 7 Sep 2007, Chris wrote:

> and Automatic Character Spacing, please.

I'd like auto dot and manual dashunless of course
we could have a swing 
option.

73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO


  

Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

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[Elecraft] K3: while you're waiting for vendors

[DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL]

Eric, Wayne:

While you're in QRX mode (ha ha ha) waiting for parts, boards, etc.
why not do some more measurements.

TOI would be nice (even tho some say: Yawn)

Complete specs on ALL of the optional filters (so we have a better
idea which to buy instead of hanging in limbo).  And I'm not talking
about bw and shape factors.

Any inkling as to what the advertised "binaural effects" might be?

OTOH, maybe you should take a long spin in the sauna.  :-)

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[David Cutter]

What an amazing amount of work you have put in to those units. 
Congratulations and thanks for your inspiration.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "Benny Aumala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:51 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Balanced AT



http://www.xs4all.nl/~pa0fri/ATU/Anttuners.htm
http://www.jetzweb.de/weise/dl3wj/atuner2.htm

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RE: [Elecraft] Miniature screwdriver sizes

[John H Gibson]

Mike:

Last week I spotted a neat 4-in-1 miniature screwdriver for sale at the 
checkout 
counter of the local hardware store. It is about the size of a Sharpie marking 
pen 
and has a pocket clip. Included are two very small flat-bladed screwdrivers and 
two very small Phlllips. The case is a tough plastic, but the reversible bits 
are 
metal and appear to be precision ground. The price was only $3, and I could not 
resist. I am very pleased with my purchase.

The label on it says Enderes Tools. I could not find this particular tool on 
their 
web site, but an internet search did turn it up on eBay. I expect it is being 
marketed as a promotional item. 

73,
John, no8v

-Original Message-

I'm in need of a very small phillips screwdriver, but haven't been able to find 
actual dimensions of them and I don't know what size a "#0" would be, etc.  I 
thought someone on this board might have some advice.  The slots in these 
screws are .064" or 1.63mm.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

--
73,
Mike, KC0KBC
Yaesu FT-857D, FT-8800R, VX-7RB
Elecraft KX1 #1819, XG2
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Thom LaCosta]

On Fri, 7 Sep 2007, Chris wrote:


and Automatic Character Spacing, please.


I'd like auto dot and manual dashunless of course we could have a swing 
option.


73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO
Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

[Don Wilhelm]

Zac,

The dimmer switches can be 'fixed' - remove them, place on a solid 
surface and swing at them full force with a hammer :-) .  Replacement 
with regular light switches will cure their noise.  If the CF advocates 
have their way, you will have to get rid of them anyway, the CF lamps 
that I have encountered do not work with dimmers.


Seriously, I do believe replacement of those particular dimmers is in 
order.  I have three in the house that do not make apparent RF noise 
(but then the antennas are 100 feet away too, which helps).  The ones I 
have use a slider next to the switch, so they can be turned completely 
off.  In the past, I have had trouble with ones which have only a slider 
or knob for both the 'OFF' position and the adjustment - they never turn 
completely off.


73,
Don W3FPR

Zac Brown wrote:

After shutting off the circuits in my house, it appears that most of the noise 
is coming from two dimmer switches and a switching power supply.
The dimmer switches are for lighting and I'm not sure what the power supply is 
for.  It's plugged into an outlet in my closet and is screwed to the wall.


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Re: [Elecraft] 2SC2166 Driver replacement?

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

Put the 2SC5739 in the Q6 position - it will be just fine.
Sorry about the lack of an update for the Errata sheet (we can probably 
blame it on the K3 preparation and resulting overtime at Elecraft).  If 
I can guess a bit, the change was part of the switch to RoHS compliant 
devices, but that is only a guess.


73,
Don W3FPR

Matt Palmer wrote:

Again I invoke the elecraft gods, i dont have a 2sc2166, mine is a
2sc5739, checking the data sheets these are the same except they have
lower voltage, current and power dissapation rating, is this a
documented replacement? I would have expected it to show up in errata
somewhere... Just want to make sure its still ok before i tag it down.

  

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[Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Benny Aumala]

http://www.xs4all.nl/~pa0fri/ATU/Anttuners.htm
http://www.jetzweb.de/weise/dl3wj/atuner2.htm

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[Elecraft] 2SC2166 Driver replacement?

[Matt Palmer]

Again I invoke the elecraft gods, i dont have a 2sc2166, mine is a
2sc5739, checking the data sheets these are the same except they have
lower voltage, current and power dissapation rating, is this a
documented replacement? I would have expected it to show up in errata
somewhere... Just want to make sure its still ok before i tag it down.


Matt KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" - ACS

[Fraser Robertson]

ACS for me too please.  73 Fraser G4BJM



From: Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:54:02 +0100

and Automatic Character Spacing, please.

Chris G3SJJ



Don Wilhelm wrote:

Wayne,

If you are creating a 'wish list', give consideration for adding Ultimatic 
to the list of keyer modes.  It helps some of us who have trouble with any 
of the other iambic modes.


73,
Don W3FPR

wayne burdick wrote:

Carsten,

The K3's internal keyer presently has two iambic keying modes, A and B, 
which closely emulate Curtis mode A and Super CMOS II mode B 
respectively.


Mode A, which I use, is the default. (I think it's less error prone than 
mode B, but say this in a crowed bar and you'll start a fight for sure.) 
Some operators like mode B for its element-insertion-on-squeeze-release, 
either because it permits faster keying or because they learned using a 
mode-B keyer.


We plan to allow for turning the dot/dash memories off completely in a 
future firmware revision.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:15 AM, Carsten Steinhöfel wrote:



Hi there,

I haven't found anything in the archives or the FAQ. I have a question 
regarding the keyer in the K3. Which keying "mode" does it use? If it 
has a dot/dash-memory, can that be switched off?




---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Tennessee QSO Party PRIZES

[J F]

For those who are interested there will be at least
two Elecraft BL-2 kits as prizes for QRP In-State and
Out of State winners in the TQP, along with 1 year
subscriptions to the National Contest Journal.

CU there???

n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Chris]

and Automatic Character Spacing, please.

Chris G3SJJ



Don Wilhelm wrote:

Wayne,

If you are creating a 'wish list', give consideration for adding 
Ultimatic to the list of keyer modes.  It helps some of us who have 
trouble with any of the other iambic modes.


73,
Don W3FPR

wayne burdick wrote:

Carsten,

The K3's internal keyer presently has two iambic keying modes, A and 
B, which closely emulate Curtis mode A and Super CMOS II mode B 
respectively.


Mode A, which I use, is the default. (I think it's less error prone 
than mode B, but say this in a crowed bar and you'll start a fight 
for sure.) Some operators like mode B for its 
element-insertion-on-squeeze-release, either because it permits 
faster keying or because they learned using a mode-B keyer.


We plan to allow for turning the dot/dash memories off completely in 
a future firmware revision.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:15 AM, Carsten Steinhöfel wrote:



Hi there,

I haven't found anything in the archives or the FAQ. I have a 
question regarding the keyer in the K3. Which keying "mode" does it 
use? If it has a dot/dash-memory, can that be switched off?




---

http://www.elecraft.com

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RE: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

[Phil Kane]

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 11:32:52 -0700, Zac Brown wrote:

>After looking into this further - the noise is still there even
>with the dimmer switches turned off (circuit is on).  Is this
>normal?

  Yes.  Remember that the test procedure is to unplug the device
  or turn the circuit breaker off.  Modern consumer electronic
  gear does not really shut off even when the switch or the
  remote control says "off".

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402



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Re: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

[Leigh L Klotz, Jr.]

They probably aren't really off.  You might wanr to take this to RFI 
list (contesting.com), but some report particular brands of Lutron 
dimmers are quiet(er).  You might be able to justify (to a landlord or 
other financial approver) replacing them on an energy basis.

73,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 11:33 am, Zac Brown wrote:
After looking into this further - the noise is still there even with 
the dimmer switches turned off (circuit is on).  Is this normal?


Thanks,

Zac
KD5IEF
K2 4907

On Friday, September 07, 2007, at 09:50AM, "Dave Van Wallaghen" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hey Zac,

That sounds very similar to what my plasma TV emits. I have my window 
line
running along the outside wall where the TV is mounted and when it is 
on, I
can hear it very plainly. The tone fluctuates with changes with the 
picture.

I've also noticed that it peaks at certain frequencies as well.

I was able to detect it as well when operating portable in my yard 100 
ft
away with a separate antenna in a tree. So I know it's not just in the 
power
line. It is considerably attenuated out there - but there none the 
less.


BTW - I have a 50" Panasonic Plasma - beautiful picture and a great RF
generator.

73,
Dave W8FGU


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zac Brown
 Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 11:48 PM
 To: Elecraft reflector
 Subject: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

 I made a few recordings of some noise that I hear on 40m tonight. The
 .wav files can be downloaded at the address below. I have no idea 
what's

 causing this noise, or how to filter it out. Is this the type of noise
 that the KDSP2 or KNB2 could remove?

 Thanks,

 Zac
 KD5IEF

 http://homepage.mac.com/zac_brown/FileSharing44.html
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RE: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

[Zac Brown]

After looking into this further - the noise is still there even with the dimmer 
switches turned off (circuit is on).  Is this normal?

Thanks,

Zac
KD5IEF
K2 4907
 
On Friday, September 07, 2007, at 09:50AM, "Dave Van Wallaghen" <[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Hey Zac,
>
>That sounds very similar to what my plasma TV emits. I have my window line
>running along the outside wall where the TV is mounted and when it is on, I
>can hear it very plainly. The tone fluctuates with changes with the picture.
>I've also noticed that it peaks at certain frequencies as well.
>
>I was able to detect it as well when operating portable in my yard 100 ft
>away with a separate antenna in a tree. So I know it's not just in the power
>line. It is considerably attenuated out there - but there none the less.
>
>BTW - I have a 50" Panasonic Plasma - beautiful picture and a great RF
>generator.
>
>73,
>Dave W8FGU
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zac Brown
>> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 11:48 PM
>> To: Elecraft reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m
>> 
>> I made a few recordings of some noise that I hear on 40m tonight. The
>> .wav files can be downloaded at the address below. I have no idea what's
>> causing this noise, or how to filter it out. Is this the type of noise
>> that the KDSP2 or KNB2 could remove?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Zac
>> KD5IEF
>> 
>> http://homepage.mac.com/zac_brown/FileSharing44.html
>> ___
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>
>
>
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RE: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

[Zac Brown]

After shutting off the circuits in my house, it appears that most of the noise 
is coming from two dimmer switches and a switching power supply.
The dimmer switches are for lighting and I'm not sure what the power supply is 
for.  It's plugged into an outlet in my closet and is screwed to the wall.
I suspect maybe it's for the jacuzzi tub or the alarm system.  I also 
discovered that with all the power shut off to my house, there is still quite a 
bit
of noise.  I guess my neighbors' homes have similar devices installed.

What's the best way to suppress the noise being thrown off by those dimmer 
switches?  I'm guessing that a ferrite choke would take care of the 
switching power supply.

Thanks,

Zac
KD5IEF
K2 4907



 
On Friday, September 07, 2007, at 09:50AM, "Dave Van Wallaghen" <[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Hey Zac,
>
>That sounds very similar to what my plasma TV emits. I have my window line
>running along the outside wall where the TV is mounted and when it is on, I
>can hear it very plainly. The tone fluctuates with changes with the picture.
>I've also noticed that it peaks at certain frequencies as well.
>
>I was able to detect it as well when operating portable in my yard 100 ft
>away with a separate antenna in a tree. So I know it's not just in the power
>line. It is considerably attenuated out there - but there none the less.
>
>BTW - I have a 50" Panasonic Plasma - beautiful picture and a great RF
>generator.
>
>73,
>Dave W8FGU
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zac Brown
>> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 11:48 PM
>> To: Elecraft reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m
>> 
>> I made a few recordings of some noise that I hear on 40m tonight. The
>> .wav files can be downloaded at the address below. I have no idea what's
>> causing this noise, or how to filter it out. Is this the type of noise
>> that the KDSP2 or KNB2 could remove?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Zac
>> KD5IEF
>> 
>> http://homepage.mac.com/zac_brown/FileSharing44.html
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>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Leigh L Klotz, Jr.]

I also would ask for Ultimatic. As a K3 choice  It's been requested 
before for KX1 and K2 and codespace has been an issue, but can we please 
have it on the future feature list?

Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:08 am, wayne burdick wrote:

Carsten,

The K3's internal keyer presently has two iambic keying modes, A and B, 
which closely emulate Curtis mode A and Super CMOS II mode B 
respectively.


Mode A, which I use, is the default. (I think it's less error prone 
than mode B, but say this in a crowed bar and you'll start a fight for 
sure.) Some operators like mode B for its 
element-insertion-on-squeeze-release, either because it permits faster 
keying or because they learned using a mode-B keyer.


We plan to allow for turning the dot/dash memories off completely in a 
future firmware revision.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:15 AM, Carsten Steinhöfel wrote:



Hi there,

I haven't found anything in the archives or the FAQ. I have a question 
regarding the keyer in the K3. Which keying "mode" does it use? If it 
has a dot/dash-memory, can that be switched off?




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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[Don Wilhelm]

Wayne,

If you are creating a 'wish list', give consideration for adding 
Ultimatic to the list of keyer modes.  It helps some of us who have 
trouble with any of the other iambic modes.


73,
Don W3FPR

wayne burdick wrote:

Carsten,

The K3's internal keyer presently has two iambic keying modes, A and 
B, which closely emulate Curtis mode A and Super CMOS II mode B 
respectively.


Mode A, which I use, is the default. (I think it's less error prone 
than mode B, but say this in a crowed bar and you'll start a fight for 
sure.) Some operators like mode B for its 
element-insertion-on-squeeze-release, either because it permits faster 
keying or because they learned using a mode-B keyer.


We plan to allow for turning the dot/dash memories off completely in a 
future firmware revision.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:15 AM, Carsten Steinhöfel wrote:



Hi there,

I haven't found anything in the archives or the FAQ. I have a 
question regarding the keyer in the K3. Which keying "mode" does it 
use? If it has a dot/dash-memory, can that be switched off?




---

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 kaputt

[Don Wilhelm]

Raimon,

If it were on my workbench, the first thing I would do at this point is 
to replace KPA100 D16 and D17, then check the operation of the wattmeter 
again. 

If I understand correctly, it did work at one time, so no additional 
calibration of the wattmeter should be required.  If the new diodes do 
not correct the bad readings, then you should look for an unsoldered or 
poorly soldered connection in the wattmeter circuits - R26, R27, U5, U6, 
Q10 and Q11 as well as the associated resistors and capacitors.  Check 
the schematic to see which components are connected to the listed 
devices.  Check the lead tinning and soldering of T4 at the same time.


After the KPA100 is working correctly, add the KAT100 and check the 
combination.  If you have to obtain 1N5711 diodes to replace the ones in 
the KPA100, order 2 for the  KAT100 at the same time so you will have 
them available in case they are needed.


73,
Don W3FPR

raimon wrote:

Dear Don
I refer again to my problem with K2/100
You wrote on 02/09/07:
"The oscillation possibility is an 'educated guess', so do change C31 
and then if a problem persists, we can offer additional assistance if 
you give us data and your observations/conditions"


I substituted C31 with two 0.1mf capacitors in parallel (my local 
supplier had run out of stock of 0.22 mf capacitors.
Now things have improved, as voltages in diodes D1 trhough D14 are all 
right, but the problem persists.


I remember to you what is the problem and my observations:
Recently I upgraded the KPA100 with KPA100UPKT, it passed all tests (I 
did not realign it), and it worked perfectly for two weeks.
One day I worked in the morning without any trouble, but when in the 
afternoon I fired it up again, the KAT100 was unable to tune: relays 
clicked, diodes did not light, tune was not obtained.

I disconnected KAT100 and observed that K2/100 was not working right.
Connected to a dummy load, power and swr readings in the LCD display are:
  Setting  9 w Read  9.8 w   swr  1.2.1
  Setting 30w Read  27 wswr  1.8.1
  Setting 90w Read   64 w   swr   2.4-1 first appears HiCurr
Connected to the same dummy load through an external wattmeter, swr 
readings are negligible, but the power indication is very high (120w)
The bare K2 (disconnected from KPA100) shows no problem. Connected to 
the same dummy load and to an OHR qrp wattmeter, power indications 
agree in both LCD and wattmeter and swr is negligible.



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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Matt Palmer]

It seems to me the old guys want things to get bigger, i want them
smaller, there is no reason with advances in technology and smaller
components that you cant fit a radio with the performance of the k2
(basic anyway) into an altoids tin, look at the AT-Sprint i think its
a great example of what can be done. If you want a better example i
spent the summer building and prototyping a power supply for military
radios, we shoved 350 watts with 9 outputs and red/black isolation
into a 3U conduction cooled compact pci card, which with the height
restriction that imposes i think was a pretty amazing feat. If i had
the free time to actually study the k2 and "figure it out" on the
level that don has it down, i wouldn't mind designing my own, but alas
i never have enough time to finish any of my dream projects, only to
start them and then to leave a bunch of parts and sketches in a box
somewhere.

Matt
KD8DAO

On 9/7/07, J F <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Matt,
>
> I would like to see a SM Elecraft kit as well. Some of
> the devices are pretty easy to work with, although
> even some of them may be "too big" these days.
>
> The AmQRP micro908 was my first SMD kit. I was worried
> about being able to work with the small devices. But
> after the first couple of components, it was actually
> fun and easy.
>
> Maybe not for everyone, but I don't think it is as
> hard to do as folks fear. Requires some new tools and
> a bit more patience, and GOOD magnifying visor/loop.
>
> Cheers,
> Julius
> n2wn
>
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[Elecraft] K3 Weekly Status 9/6/2007

[Geoffrey Downs]

Thanks for the update Eric. We all appreciate the effort you, Wayne and the 
Elecraft Team are putting in to bring us the K3. Keep going - it's been a long 
race for you but the finishing post is in sight!

Geoff
G3UCK
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[Elecraft] Tennessee QSO Party This weekend!

[J F]

Sunday! Sunday Sunday!

Raceway Park Englishtown... ummm wrong promo ;o)

Sunday 1800Z Is the start of the Tennessee QSO Party.
We have a nice group of mobiles zipping around the
state.
Seven hours o' fun!

I'll have Claiborne, Union and Grainger counties on
the air CW only, unless I catch someone on 6M SSB.

Come and play!

http://www.tnqp.org/ 

72,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] two topical yet unrelated topics

[Bill W5WVO]

Wah!!! It doesn't work 6M! 


Sheesh, that should have been a no-brainer. What were they thinking?

Bill / W5WVO


hank k8dd wrote:

It looks like a Sigma 5 clone!

73HankK8DD

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

Have you seen the price? And it doesn't do 40 or 80!


On 7/9/07 14:03, "Steve Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:



Has anyone yet seen (or tried) the new self-contained 'H' antenna
from TW Antennas?     If it is what I
think it is, this could be a great OEM product for Elecraft.  Make
mine gray to match my K2! 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- The Mountain

[David Cutter]

The TARDIS is a police box.

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Bruce Bowman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- The Mountain


I can't speak for the K3, but the K2 must be labeled in error. Isn't 
that really a Tardis? :)


Bruce, NM5B
Santa Fe, NM

- Original Message - 
From: "David Cutter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- The Mountain



Be easier to find a K3 telephone box.

http://www.redphonebox.info/history.htm

David
G3UNA



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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[J F]

Matt,

I would like to see a SM Elecraft kit as well. Some of
the devices are pretty easy to work with, although
even some of them may be "too big" these days.

The AmQRP micro908 was my first SMD kit. I was worried
about being able to work with the small devices. But
after the first couple of components, it was actually
fun and easy.

Maybe not for everyone, but I don't think it is as
hard to do as folks fear. Requires some new tools and
a bit more patience, and GOOD magnifying visor/loop.

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
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RE: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Edward Dickinson, III]

...remote tuners is for a tuner that tunes itself for a match and which does
not require to be given band data from the rig. ...

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
---
Hi Greg.

I support your notion.


Regards,
Dick - KA5KKT/4

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

[wayne burdick]

Carsten,

The K3's internal keyer presently has two iambic keying modes, A and B, 
which closely emulate Curtis mode A and Super CMOS II mode B 
respectively.


Mode A, which I use, is the default. (I think it's less error prone 
than mode B, but say this in a crowed bar and you'll start a fight for 
sure.) Some operators like mode B for its 
element-insertion-on-squeeze-release, either because it permits faster 
keying or because they learned using a mode-B keyer.


We plan to allow for turning the dot/dash memories off completely in a 
future firmware revision.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:15 AM, Carsten Steinhöfel wrote:



Hi there,

I haven't found anything in the archives or the FAQ. I have a question 
regarding the keyer in the K3. Which keying "mode" does it use? If it 
has a dot/dash-memory, can that be switched off?




---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K2 kaputt

[raimon]

Dear Don
I refer again to my problem with K2/100
You wrote on 02/09/07:
"The oscillation possibility is an 'educated guess', so do change C31 
and then if a problem persists, we can offer additional assistance if 
you give us data and your observations/conditions"


I substituted C31 with two 0.1mf capacitors in parallel (my local 
supplier had run out of stock of 0.22 mf capacitors.
Now things have improved, as voltages in diodes D1 trhough D14 are all 
right, but the problem persists.


I remember to you what is the problem and my observations:
Recently I upgraded the KPA100 with KPA100UPKT, it passed all tests (I 
did not realign it), and it worked perfectly for two weeks.
One day I worked in the morning without any trouble, but when in the 
afternoon I fired it up again, the KAT100 was unable to tune: relays 
clicked, diodes did not light, tune was not obtained.

I disconnected KAT100 and observed that K2/100 was not working right.
Connected to a dummy load, power and swr readings in the LCD display are:
  Setting  9 w Read  9.8 w   swr  1.2.1
  Setting 30w Read  27 wswr  1.8.1
  Setting 90w Read   64 w   swr   2.4-1 first appears HiCurr
Connected to the same dummy load through an external wattmeter, swr 
readings are negligible, but the power indication is very high (120w)
The bare K2 (disconnected from KPA100) shows no problem. Connected to 
the same dummy load and to an OHR qrp wattmeter, power indications agree 
in both LCD and wattmeter and swr is negligible.


I guess there is a bad performance of the swr reading circuit of the KAT100.
Where do you think that I should look for a cure?
Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.
73  Raimon
EA3EZO
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[Bill W5WVO]

This is a great idea -- but I wonder if you're actually thinking of it in 
terms of PHYSICAL controls, rather than SCREEN IMAGES of physical controls? 
The former would be the ideal, really -- a custom-designed UI with physical 
controls that suit the individual user.


Think about how high-performance aircraft cockpits are designed. Lots of 
knobs, switches, lights, and other "analog" controls -- except they aren't, 
mostly. They're digital behind the front panel, but they behave as if they're 
analog. Why? Because human beings are analog! That's how our bodies and brains 
work. For the highest real-time efficiency, you need an analog user interface 
to control the machine. Not just the familiar knobs and buttons, either, but 
creative, highly adaptive analog controls as well.


Now, here's the idea. You provide a kit that consists of knob, button, switch, 
lever, screen, light, and other analog control and display modules. These 
modules (including various sizes of space-filler dummy modules) are shaped and 
sized such that they can function as plug-in building blocks. You plug them 
into the connection panel and do some very simple point-and-click programming 
(with a PC temporarily connected) to tell the controller what each one is and 
how it is to function, and voila -- custom analog control panel. The whole 
thing then plugs into the radio, which is a black box situated somewhere out 
of sight.


I think this might actually work, with a little development brainstorming... 
:-)


Bill / W5WVO


Julian G4ILO wrote:

That would be the advantage of a CAT program software interface - at
least, a theoretical advantage since I haven't seen a program that
actually does this. You could allow the user to design their own
interface. Give them a palette of knobs and buttons and displays, let
them set properties to say what parameter they controlled or showed.

I actually thought of writing a program like this, but it is easier
said than done and programming is not much fun, especially when it's
more or less what you do all day for a living, so the idea never got
off the drawing board.

On 9/7/07, John Huggins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Another question is, for the contester, which transmitter and
receiver parameters deserve their very own control knob?


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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[hank k8dd]

hank k8dd wrote:


AF & RF gain for each - the AF gain being the most used, so AF/RF main 
& AF/RF Sub.   AF---())---RFfor each
I dislike having to use the concentric, or "inner" control without 
disturbing the the other. 

I think what I meant for the AF/RF might be better visualized as

  AF --o)---RF/SQ main  upper control

  AF --o)---RF/SQ sublower control

I have never seen much use for a squelch on an HF radio, but I don't 
operate FM on 10 or 6 M


And while I'm opening myself up .
I liked the PF1, PF2, PF3 instead of the Pitch, Text Dec, Data MD . 
Make the next two to the left  XIT   RIT   and PF4, PF5 under them 
.. Put the RIT at the edge - easier to press after 6 hours in front 
of the radio . Guess I'd rather define what I want for that row of 
switches!


Besides . It's all "soft" isn't it?  Maybe we could change them in 
the future!


73HankK8DD


--
---
If God intended you to be on single sideband,
he would have given you only one nostril.
- Steve, K2PTS (SK)
---

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[Elecraft] Balanced AT, an Idea that works, CHEAP.

[Michael Baker]

Hi Gang,

After reading about the German auto tuner item I thought I might
mention what I have used that works well and doesn't break the bank.

AT-11Pro tuner with the matching 4 to one balun attached directly to
the back of the tuner with a double male connector and powered by self
contained battery pack of AA cells will match just about anything you attach
to it and do the job from 160 to 6 meters.  

There are a few combinations that it doesn't work well with but if
the antenna is say a typical 80 meter doublet fed with ladder line it will
match it on all harmonically related bands, NO problem.  
Good for a hundred watts and can be operated with QRP levels in the
AUTO tune position its a hands off method that sets you back about $230 out
the door (not including the battery mod or weather proof box).

On Field Day this same system was directly attached to the dipole at
the feed point and suspended inside a plastic freezer box and hauled up a
tree and worked fine.


Michael Baker  K7DD
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] K3 keyer "mode"

[Carsten Steinhöfel]

Hi there,

I haven't found anything in the archives or the FAQ. I have a question 
regarding the keyer in the K3. Which keying "mode" does it use? If it has a 
dot/dash-memory, can that be switched off?

I can't key with dot/dash memory (or Curtis mode B), so I had to use an 
external keyer for all transceivers so far.

vy 73 de Carsten, DL1EFD

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Vic K2VCO]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

-Original Message-
From: John Huggins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Here is one that seems to seek that market and might fit the bill... 
 >http://www.hamware.de/hardware/tuner502/descr-at502-e.pdf - seems 
semi-automatic though 



WOW! That's the ticket!




Now the question - how much? 


$699 US. You can get the price in Euros on the site as well. More than 
I'm prepared to spend, unfortunately.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Balanced ATU

[Sid Leben]

I use a balanced/unbalanced Tuner by Hamware.de.  I saw them at Dayton this
year & scooped one up.  The smaller unit has a balanced Pi network, rated at
200 Watts, capable of switching two antennas.  It has an internal (shack) rf
sensor with the Tuner mounted outdoors.
It has worked very well for me & will detect low wattage ( I use it with
KX1, K2 & Pro III, K3 soon).
  The external tuner can select balanced or unbalanced antennas, & with the
2 ant. Switch, you can operate one of each if desired.
There is no involvement by me in this business, but I thought this would fit
the discussion quite well.

Sid  KC2EE

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Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ's K3 Site

[Larry Phipps]

Good pic Ed. I submitted a mountain "theme" graphic for the T-shirt 
contest, but wasn't picked ;-) You can see it at

http://www.telepostinc.com/n8lp.html#news

73,
Larry N8LP



Edward R. Breneiser wrote:

Hello all,

Check out my K3 Web Page. I just had to add the picture! 



http://www.wa3wsj.com/K3.html

72,
Ed,WA3WSJ
K3 # ?


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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Vic K2VCO]

Simon Brown (HB9DRV) wrote:

Indeed - I have a K3 on order and would pay $1,000 more for a nice 19" 
big panel. Same as we have now, just bigger. Bigger buttons, bigger 
labels, nice 4" tuning knob (like the FTDX-9000).


The age profile of Hams who can afford new radios must show that we're 
suffering from the age-related problems such as poor eyesight, less 
flexible fingers and easy confusion when presented with lots of small 
buttons (one reason why I like my TS-480SAT).


I have a K2, a TS850s and a beta version K3. I more or less got used to 
the K2, but I complained a lot about it being too small for my age.


My experience with the K3 is that it does not feel smaller than the 
TS850s (a 'normal size' radio), although it is. The number and layout of 
the controls seems right for the size of the panel. I don't feel cramped 
using it.


I have an HRO-5 which is 19" or so wide. It wouldn't fit on my desk with 
the other stuff, like the computer and monitor that I didn't have in 1956.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
K3 no. 7 ('James', of course)
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Re: Help with noise on 40m

[Scott Holisky]

Zac -
 That sound just like a touch lamp. Bet if you listen to it over a few 
days you can hear it move in frequency as the temperature changes. My neighbor 
has a few, your recordings sound the same. I agree with Don, it's got to be 
close! 
 
GL, now you know what to get them for Christmas!   
 
Scott N0AR
 

Message: 22
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 00:13:50 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m
Zac,

I have no idea what could be causing that noise, but it certainly sounds
like it is frequency dependent (you were tuning during the recording
were you not?) and from the intensity, I would judge it to be a local
source.

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RE: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hey Zac,

That sounds very similar to what my plasma TV emits. I have my window line
running along the outside wall where the TV is mounted and when it is on, I
can hear it very plainly. The tone fluctuates with changes with the picture.
I've also noticed that it peaks at certain frequencies as well.

I was able to detect it as well when operating portable in my yard 100 ft
away with a separate antenna in a tree. So I know it's not just in the power
line. It is considerably attenuated out there - but there none the less.

BTW - I have a 50" Panasonic Plasma - beautiful picture and a great RF
generator.

73,
Dave W8FGU

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zac Brown
> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 11:48 PM
> To: Elecraft reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] Help with noise on 40m
> 
> I made a few recordings of some noise that I hear on 40m tonight. The
> .wav files can be downloaded at the address below. I have no idea what's
> causing this noise, or how to filter it out. Is this the type of noise
> that the KDSP2 or KNB2 could remove?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Zac
> KD5IEF
> 
> http://homepage.mac.com/zac_brown/FileSharing44.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[n2ey]

-Original Message-
From: John Huggins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Here is one that seems to seek that market and might fit the bill... 
 >http://www.hamware.de/hardware/tuner502/descr-at502-e.pdf - seems 
semi-automatic though 



WOW! That's the ticket!

A true balanced coupler, remote controlled. Will also match unbalanced 
loads and do remote antenna switching. Looks to me like it has both 
auto and manual modes, and RF sensing.


If I understand the system, you can:

1) Adjust it manually
2) Have it auto-adjust
3) Have it preset by telling it which memory to look at. So if you want 
to listen on, say, 21.225, you tell it the nearest memory location and 
it presets without transmitting any RF.


Will work with any rig, but that also means it doesn't direct-interface 
either.


Now the question - how much? 

---

Dream-wish list:

Remote tuner/switch somewhat like this, but with an optional 
direct-to-rig interface specific to various rigs. Made by Elecraft, of 
course. QRP, 200W and QRO versions, all using the same control box.


Hey, we can dream, right?


73 de Jim, N2EY

Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

=0
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Re: [Elecraft] two topical yet unrelated topics

[hank k8dd]

It looks like a Sigma 5 clone!

73HankK8DD

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

Have you seen the price? And it doesn't do 40 or 80!


On 7/9/07 14:03, "Steve Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

  

Has anyone yet seen (or tried) the new self-contained 'H' antenna from TW
Antennas?     If it is what I think it is, this
could be a great OEM product for Elecraft.  Make mine gray to match my K2!



  



--
---
If God intended you to be on single sideband,
he would have given you only one nostril.
- Steve, K2PTS (SK)
---

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Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ's K3 Site

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

HaHa!


On 7/9/07 15:11, "Edward R. Breneiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Hello all,
> 
> Check out my K3 Web Page. I just had to add the picture!
> 
> 
> http://www.wa3wsj.com/K3.html
> 
-- 
An old miser kept a tame jackdaw, that used to steal pieces of money, and
hide them in a hole, which a cat observing, asked, "Why he would hoard up
those round shining things that he could make no use of?" "Why," said the
jackdaw, "my master has a whole chestfull, and makes no more use of them
that I do." -Jonathan Swift, satirist (1667-1745)


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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Julian G4ILO]

The trouble with this approach is it requires a few seconds of RF to
tune up. I wonder how much RF pollution the K2 design has saved by
being able to remember and automatically tune to each band as you
switch? It's also far more convenient for those who like to switch on
and have a quick listen to see if 10 or 15 are open, say. It would be
well worth the trouble of extra cabling, in my opinion. It's just a
pity there isn't a universal standard of band data that would allow
such a device to be made for any rig.

Wouldn't it be cool if the K3 could peak the ATU for maximum noise in
the receiver, especially for using the GC RX in the non-ham bands...
-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com


On 9/7/07, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> My vote based on use of homebrewed remote tuners is for a tuner that tunes
> itself for a match and which does not require to be given band data from the
> rig.
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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ's K3 Site

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

Check out my K3 Web Page. I just had to add the picture! 


http://www.wa3wsj.com/K3.html

72,
Ed,WA3WSJ
K3 # ?


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Re: [Elecraft] two topical yet unrelated topics

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Have you seen the price? And it doesn't do 40 or 80!


On 7/9/07 14:03, "Steve Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Has anyone yet seen (or tried) the new self-contained 'H' antenna from TW
> Antennas?     If it is what I think it is, this
> could be a great OEM product for Elecraft.  Make mine gray to match my K2!

-- 
Man is the best computer we can put aboard a spacecraft and the only one
that can be mass produced with unskilled labour.
-Wernher von Braun, rocket engineer (1912-1977)



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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[hank k8dd]

John Huggins wrote:
Another question is, for the contester, which transmitter and receiver 
parameters deserve their very own control knob?


John


That's a great question!
Main tuning - large
Second VFO/Receiver - smaller
AF & RF gain for each - the AF gain being the most used, so AF/RF main & 
AF/RF Sub.  
 AF---())---RFfor each
I dislike having to use the concentric, or "inner" control without 
disturbing the the other.
Those are the most used in a contest. 


Then there is the RIT for the "non-zero-beaters"!
And next would be the filter width on a knob rather than buttons you 
must cycle through.


Then keyer speed, but lately that is controlled by the PC / K1EL Winkeyer.
The Bandswitch used to be right up there, but that's controlled by the 
PC now with contest and logging programs!


Power, Mic gain, Compression, are nice, but pretty much "set & forget" 
in a contest.  You don't have a lot of time to be messing with them when 
you are running or S&P.


I'd think most everything else can be buttons  as long as they don't 
bounce!


73HankK8DD

--
---
If God intended you to be on single sideband,
he would have given you only one nostril.
- Steve, K2PTS (SK)
---

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Craig D. Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote on Friday, September 07, 2007 
11:56 AM


Given Elecraft's knowledge and success with their other tuners (I loved the
internal tuner in my K2), I think they could do a bang up world-class job
with a remote tuner with automatic interface with the K3.  There (relatively
soon) will be thousands of K3s out there waiting for tuning solutions.  I
will be first in line to purchase a remote tuner when Elecraft announces it.
And I'm sure they will find a way to provide excellent performance with
balanced loads such as ladderline fed doublets, loops, etc

-

Craig,

If my understanding is correct, a remote tuner designed to interface with 
the K3 would not allow the use of the tuner with any other type of rig. If 
that is correct then the user of a rig other than the K3 would have to build 
/ buy a control device which simulates the K3 control interface before the 
tuner could be used. I believe that Elecraft's potential market would be 
greatly enlarged if the remote tuner could be used with any type of rig (50 
ohm load)? My apology if I have misunderstood what you mean by 'automatic 
interface with the K3'.


My vote based on use of homebrewed remote tuners is for a tuner that tunes 
itself for a match and which does not require to be given band data from the 
rig. This reduces the number of wires between shack and tuner to 3  -  DC 
supply, Remote VSWR indication and Ground. If the coax feeder is used to 
route these rails it is possible to have no extra wires at all, but I prefer 
not to do this.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD





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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Joe-aa4nn]

Well, now, when is a door not a door?
Of course, when it is a jar.
de Joe, aa4nn
- 
The SCG tuner will tune balanced aerial systems but is not AFAIK a 
balanced tuner.



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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Julian G4ILO]

Yep, I had one. I sold it soon after I got my K2. Never really missed it.

-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com


On 9/7/07, Brett gazdzinski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you ever used one of the 756 series rigs, you know
> just how nice the display is, and its nice having it all in one box
> and not having to move/carry a screen along if you move things.
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[Elecraft] two topical yet unrelated topics

[Steve Jackson]

Parts:

If it makes the Elecraft guys feel any better, other manufacturers of every 
stripe have just as hard a time getting some parts as you do.  A critical 
assembly I have now, at work, is several weeks delayed in release due to the 
same problem.  I have a full-time staff that does nothing but run down 
long-lead-time parts and potential substitutes.  I assure everyone that the 
lead times were not this long when I designed the part in, in the first place.  
My customers don't like to hear this delay news any more than yours do, either. 
 It is the same all over, hang in there, it gets better after a while.  Also, 
you're doing the right thing by taking advantage of the 'lull' and using that 
time for more testing.  I am doing the same thing and I figure I will be able 
to bypass an entire set of field firmware upgrades because of it.  Every cloud 
has a silver lining.


Remote "tuner":

Somebody wrote "Imagine being able to mount a weatherproof box outside, run the 
balanced-line to it, then run coax into the shack - and the coax runs at very 
low SWR, so it can be pretty long without having much loss."

Because there are so many existing autocouplers (yes, autocoupler, not 
autotuner -- they don't 'tune' anything, I dislike using the wrong name for 
things) it would be hard to make a new product that didn't compete with 
somebody's homebrew.  I could be wrong about that.  Maybe hams today really 
can't make their own anything anymore, which is sad.  Anyway, I have a remote 
SGC-239 in a galvanized service entrance box, out at the edge of the woods .  
It's mounted to a pipe driven into the ground.  Inside is a small 
choke-capacitor arrangement to take off the DC power I 'phantom' out the coax 
to the unit, and the output of this autocoupler is fed to a 4:1 balun, then 
this assembly feeds a 135' doublet via 450 ohm window line.  I don't think the 
whole thing cost me $200, including the little DC 'injector' in the shack.  I 
suggested to both SGC and LDG that they make up such an item, ready to play, 
and the idea was smilingly rejected.  MFJ *does* make the
 weatherized remote autocoupler, but it doesn't have the built-in DC power 
arrangement that is necessary for adoption of the product, nor the output 
balun.  So close, yet so far.  Maybe Elecraft could indeed make a product that 
does it right?  After all, the G5RV sells to new hams like hotcakes, despite 
the shortcomings, because so many people just want "an antenna" and that is the 
advice they get about what to buy.  Visions of coiled-up feedlines on 
transmission-line doublets, hung 4 meters up, at the bottom of a sunspot cycle 
... what a great way to discourage newbies!  The outdoor cabinet needed for a 
remote autocoupler is the tricky and costly part, embedding a slightly modified 
KAT100 in it would not be difficult.


Last comment:

Has anyone yet seen (or tried) the new self-contained 'H' antenna from TW 
Antennas?     If it is what I think it is, this 
could be a great OEM product for Elecraft.  Make mine gray to match my K2!






  

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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[Julian G4ILO]

That would be the advantage of a CAT program software interface - at
least, a theoretical advantage since I haven't seen a program that
actually does this. You could allow the user to design their own
interface. Give them a palette of knobs and buttons and displays, let
them set properties to say what parameter they controlled or showed.

I actually thought of writing a program like this, but it is easier
said than done and programming is not much fun, especially when it's
more or less what you do all day for a living, so the idea never got
off the drawing board.
-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com


On 9/7/07, John Huggins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Another question is, for the contester, which transmitter and receiver
> parameters deserve their very own control knob?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[dj7mgq]

Hi Larry,

> Sounds like our careers are similar, Toby. For decades I sat in front of 
.. ...
> "decision list".

That is why I think the "old style" would make sense for ham radio. It is live
and not post production. Non-linear setups are fantastic for 'after the fact'
editing but not for live events such as sports. 

Having to move my hands and "center of attention" from horizontal to vertical
and back has always bugged me. And wouldn't a shuttle/jog knob for tuning be
wonderful?

vy 73 de toby
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Re: [Elecraft] Collins' experience

[Julian G4ILO]

I would add the IC-701 to that list. Icom's first HF transceiver, it
was similar in size and looks to its VHF base tranceiver the IC-211
and there was nothing else quite like it at the time.

There was a US-made radio, Atlas I think its name was, which was quite
small and had a ring mixer front end that apparently made it quite
bomb proof by the standards of the day. That was quite a milestone in
design - perhaps the K3 of its day.

You could add the FT-101 which was probably the most popular HF SSB
transceiver of its day and the first SSB transceiver for a lot of
people.

I still don't see why the IC-706 belongs on such a list at all, but
the trouble with all such lists is that they are subjective and
influenced greatly by the radios the lister has owned (or lusted
after.)

-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com


On 9/7/07, Charles Harpole <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> And the S-Line became the benchmark for all hams to aspire to own... I
> finally owned 3 sets for a few months and kept a 75-S3B, and two KWM-2A.
> Today, I was caressing them, but only with appropriate intimacy as they
> deserve.
>
> Milestones for HF ham rigs (from 1957 onward):
> NC-300
> anything Viking
> Globe King
> SX-101 (with heating resistor)
> Drake 1A and 2B and TR-3/4
> Drake C-Line (with Sherwood mods, look at where Sherwood ranks such a R-4C
> even now)
> FT-1 (or was it the 901DM?) and maybe the TS-930
> FT-1000D
> MP
> IC-706 (I said "milestones" meaning in utility and popularity, too)
> ORIONs (if only people would buy one)
> and now the K3.
>
>   "for the love of ham radio"   73
>
> Charles Harpole
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> _
> Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft(r) Office Live!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/
>
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RE: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Brett gazdzinski]

If you ever used one of the 756 series rigs, you know
just how nice the display is, and its nice having it all in one box
and not having to move/carry a screen along if you move things.

You can put a lot of information on a screen like that, and icom
was smart enough to also use a real mechanical meter along with
the very nice display.
The band scope is a very nice feature, although you might not
think so till you use one, but its only part of the nice display.
You can turn it off and copy rtty, access all kinds of options, show
loads of very detailed info at the same time, etc.
Its not a big box, but it is quite heavy.

The 756 pro series is a very nice radio, except for its abysmal
performance on receive.
At about $1200.00 it's a good buy for a used rig if you don't
mind the wide front end...

Brett
N2DTS
 





> 
> Perhaps the solution is to think outside the box. Literally.
> 
> I mean, there is no need for a bandscope to be part of the radio main
> display, just because Icom does it that way. All that is needed is a
> plug-in module that can be added with a coaxial socket on it, that can
> be plugged in to an external display. You could even use a portable
> LCD TV for the display, as some IC-7000 users do because the built in
> one is too small.
> 
> For quick access to control functions something like a TV remote
> control could be used. You would need an infra red module in the K3.
> Perhaps an actual TV remote could be used to save costs. Some of these
> are highly programmable with a touch screen. Or you could use
> dedicated software on a PDA.
> 
> -- 
> Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
> G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
> Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[Larry Phipps]

Sounds like our careers are similar, Toby. For decades I sat in front of 
an array of switchers, mixers, edit controllers, etc., but from the late 
'90s until I retired it was all done with SGI workstations. The old 
style is definitely faster for live production, but for complex 
post-production you can't beat the computer approach which integrates 
editing, audio and CGI into one intuitive application... and one 
"decision list".  Sort of like traditional rigs vs. SDRs.


I made my decision to go with the K3 vs. something like a Flex 5000, 
mainly because I do simple operation and speed and performance is more 
important to me than complexity in my old age ;-) Also, of course, 
because I can build and maintain it ;-)


73,
Larry N8LP



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

To tell you the truth, based on years spent in TV control rooms and edit suites,
I feel the ideal setup would be panels with large buttons, sliders and shuttle
style knobs, sunk in the surface of the table. Might end up looking a bit like
these: ,
 or
.


vy 73 de toby
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[Elecraft] large vs. small

[rlpend]

I've built smt and large component kits and agree the smt, of the 
larger size at least, is doable with adequate vision and coordination 
and magnification after learning the smt technique for soldering and 
handling parts.


Nonetheless I prefer larger and more dials rather than cryptically 
labeled buttons on tiny radio devices. This is due to my habit of using 
a radio and then going on to something else and when I return I have to 
learn to use it again (in part)...


I am also concerned how many small radios are not intuitive regarding 
their menus  and without the manual one can be stuck.


I don't know that a lot of people would want to build an advanced radio 
using all smt.


None of this is in reference to Elecraft...love my K1

Bob
N5JYW

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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[John Huggins]

Another question is, for the contester, which transmitter and receiver 
parameters deserve their very own control knob?


John

Charles Harpole wrote:

Even today's rigs have plenty of panel space only today that part is 
called the top (or the bottom).


I say, set it on its rear .  Computer tower configurations won out 
over the flat type like the first IBM PCs cases ham radio can do 
that too.


Which do u want
Low and deep
Wide and shallow
?

Charles Harpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

_
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Re: [Elecraft] rig size

[dj7mgq]

To tell you the truth, based on years spent in TV control rooms and edit suites,
I feel the ideal setup would be panels with large buttons, sliders and shuttle
style knobs, sunk in the surface of the table. Might end up looking a bit like
these: ,
 or
.


vy 73 de toby
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Re: [Elecraft] Blame the KWM-2

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


It all started with the KWM-2



So we can blame the Americans :-)

28 years ago I used KWM-2 gear as GD4ELi with a 6 element yagi - I must say 
I haven't had as much fun since. The K3 will change all that...


Simon HB9DRV 


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[Elecraft] oh and add

[Charles Harpole]

oh, and add... how could I forget!

Heath DX-100
FT-101
TS-520



Charles Harpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] rig size

[Charles Harpole]

Even today's rigs have plenty of panel space only today that part is called 
the top (or the bottom).


I say, set it on its rear .  Computer tower configurations won out over 
the flat type like the first IBM PCs cases ham radio can do that too.


Which do u want
Low and deep
Wide and shallow
?

Charles Harpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

_
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5GB storage. 
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[Elecraft] Collins' experience

[Charles Harpole]

And the S-Line became the benchmark for all hams to aspire to own... I 
finally owned 3 sets for a few months and kept a 75-S3B, and two KWM-2A.  
Today, I was caressing them, but only with appropriate intimacy as they 
deserve.


Milestones for HF ham rigs (from 1957 onward):
NC-300
anything Viking
Globe King
SX-101 (with heating resistor)
Drake 1A and 2B and TR-3/4
Drake C-Line (with Sherwood mods, look at where Sherwood ranks such a R-4C 
even now)

FT-1 (or was it the 901DM?) and maybe the TS-930
FT-1000D
MP
IC-706 (I said "milestones" meaning in utility and popularity, too)
ORIONs (if only people would buy one)
and now the K3.

  "for the love of ham radio"   73

Charles Harpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] Blame the KWM-2

[N2EY]

Why are rigs so small? I think it's Art Collins' fault. And card tables.

Look at typical ham gear of the mid-to-late 1950s, and you'll see receivers 
and 100-watt-class transmitters that took up most of the top of a standard 
office desk, and whose combined weight ran 150-200 pounds. For example, the 
classic Heathkit Mohawk/Apache pair took up a space about 40 inches wide, 
almost a 
foot high and over a foot deep. And you better have a substantial operating 
desk to hold them, because of the weight.

Then in 1959 came the revolutionary KWM-2. While not the first manufactured 
amateur SSB transceiver, nor even the first 80-10 meter one, it was 
revolutionary.  A complete 100 watt SSB station in a box smaller than most 
receivers of 
the day. Sure it needed an external power supply, but that could be tucked away 
out of sight since it had no operating controls and was very small and light. 
Such a rig could be tucked away in a small space, or even set up on a card 
table with straining it.

Fast forward less than a decade, and many rigmakers were making their version 
of the KWM-2. Heathkit had the SB-100/101/102 series, which were about the 
same size as the KWM-2 and followed the same basic design ideas. Yet an SB-101 
with power supply, speaker and CW filter cost less than the Apache/Mohawk 
combo. For high power, add the Heath SB-200 amp - $200 and the same size as the 
SB-101. 

This reduction in size, weight and cost is why SSB replaced AM and why 
transceivers replaced separates for most hams. Hamshacks could move out of the 
basement and into the living space, and high power (particularly on 'phone) no 
longer meant a six foot rack or two and a second mortgage. For many hams it 
meant 
the ability to have a much better station than they had thought possible, due 
to space and cost limits.

It all started with the KWM-2

73 de Jim, N2EY


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Re: [Elecraft] Misc Photos of K3?

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Look closely at the VFO-B freq. display - its displaying the time - right
back years ago (well in March anyway), Wayne had said that there is a
real-time clock in the rig.

On 6/9/07 15:56, "Terry Schieler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

>  Fred,
> 
> The link that was provided was
>  
> http://www.n4lcd.com/k3

-- 
Children aren't happy without something to ignore, And that's what
parents were created for. -Ogden Nash (1902-1971)




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[Elecraft] Misc Photos of K3?

[Terry Schieler]

 Fred,

The link that was provided was
 
http://www.n4lcd.com/k3

There are multiple photos.  If you notice the cheap little stick-on feet on
the right side of the K3, Wayne has already confirmed for me that those were
for the proto types only and that the production K3's will have normal,
sturdy feet on the side opposite the carry handle.

Hope this helps,

Terry, WØFM



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 9:40 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Misc Photos of K3?

Someone, in past 2 weeks, posted a message with a link - to a SET of K3
PHOTOS, taken at various places.  Inside cabinet, bottom, front, front,
front, all over the K3.

Does anyone remember or have this photo Link?

Fred N3CSY


 


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[Elecraft] K3, NOT unlike Collins' experience

[Terry Schieler]

Hello to the group.
 
Interestingly, while reading the threads here about the delay in the
shipment of the K3, I have just concluded a most interesting book by Jay H.
Miller (KK5IM) called A Pictorial History of Collins Amateur Radio Equipment
(Trinity Graphic Systems, publisher).  I was amused to see the similarity
between what Art Collins went through during the late 50's introduction of
the "S-Line" series and what Eric and Wayne are presently dealing with.
 
For those who have the time, you may find this interesting reading and, I
believe, appropriate here.  I'll quote and/or paraphrase some points from
Jay Miller's very informative book:
 
 
In mid 1957 Chuck Carney, WØGDJ, accepted an offer to become manager of
Collins' amateur radio product line.  One of Carney's first assignments was
to move the line from the already successful KWM-1 to what would become
known as the S-Line.  Reporting to Carney, Gene Senti, WØROW, headed the
group which set about to create the next generation of equipment, the
S-Line.  
 
>From Miller's book:
 
"By late 1957 engineering prototypes were cobbled together and Carney and
Senti took them home for testing.  To manufacture the new equipment, the
company retooled the KWM-1 production line set up in the old creamery
building on Garnavillo Street in the nearby town of Anamosa.  Carney went to
work setting up the introductory promotion plan which was scheduled for a
fall 1958 kick off."
 
"Carney and the advertising department developed an advertising campaign and
started to "leak" news of the new project to the dealers.  Manufacturing
models of the new S-Line were unveiled at the Institute of Radio Engineers
(IRE) Convention on March 24."
 
"Much of Carney's job dealt with keeping the cadre of Collins dealers
happy".
 
"In concert with the dealers, a coordinated roll-out of the S-Line was
scheduled for November 8 through December 8, 1958 in what was to become
known as "S-Month".  
 
"Hundreds of hams visited dealers' stores to try out the new S-Lines.
Bookings were heavy but there was no product to sell! [emphasis by poster].
The plant ran into problems building the rigs as changes were made right up
to the last minute.  All the rigs in the first batch had to be rerouted
through the line to be modified."
 
"To make matters worse, after the first production run was fixed and
shipped, the dials started sticking due to an assembly process failure.  The
line was shut down until the problem could be fixed.  Every single rig in
the plant had to be taken apart, new dials manufactured and replaced.  To
top it off, all the equipment previously shipped used the same dial material
so they had to be recalled and new dial parts installed."
 
Later in the book, Carney goes on to discuss headaches with vendor delays,
quality of parts, engineering changes, added features, etc.  It appears that
the Collins' famous S-Line was at least 6 months off their original ship
date.  
 
The book is interesting reading as we sit here, comfortably (anxiously)
awaiting our new K3, just a couple of weeks off target at this point.  Being
a partner in a small business myself, I realize that no business has
unlimited resources.  You staff for the norm.  When the norm becomes the
unusual, you scramble to minimize the impact and the delays.
 
My hat's off to those here who have seen fit to give the folks in Aptos the
"elbow room" they need to get us the best possible product in the most
timely manner, in spite of unexpected surprises along the way.  
 
73,
 
Terry, WØFM
 
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] K3, NOT unlike Collins' experience

[Terry Schieler]

Hello to the group.
 
Interestingly, while reading the threads here about the delay in the
shipment of the K3, I have just concluded a most interesting book by Jay H.
Miller (KK5IM) called A Pictorial History of Collins Amateur Radio Equipment
(Trinity Graphic Systems, publisher).  I was amused to see the similarity
between what Art Collins went through during the late 50's introduction of
the "S-Line" series and what Eric and Wayne are presently dealing with.
 
For those who have the time, you may find this interesting reading and, I
believe, appropriate here.  I'll quote and/or paraphrase some points from
Jay Miller's book:
 
 
In mid 1957 Chuck Carney, WØGDJ, accepted an offer to become manager of
Collins' amateur radio product line.  One of Carney's first assignments was
to move the line from the already successful KWM-1 to what would become
known as the S-Line.  Reporting to Carney, Gene Senti, WØROW, headed the
group which set about to create the next generation of equipment, the
S-Line.  
 
>From Miller's book:
 
"By late 1957 engineering prototypes were cobbled together and Carney and
Senti took them home for testing.  To manufacture the new equipment, the
company retooled the KWM-1 production line set up in the old creamery
building on Garnavillo Street in the nearby town of Anamosa.  Carney went to
work setting up the introductory promotion plan which was scheduled for a
fall 1958 kick off."
 
"Carney and the advertising department developed an advertising campaign and
started to "leak" news of the new project to the dealers.  Manufacturing
models of the new S-Line were unveiled at the Institute of Radio Engineers
(IRE) Convention on March 24."
 
"Much of Carney's job dealt with keeping the cadre of Collins dealers
happy".
 
"In concert with the dealers, a coordinated roll-out of the S-Line was
scheduled for November 8 through December 8, 1958 in what was to become
known as "S-Month".  
 
"Hundreds of hams visited dealers' stores to try out the new S-Lines.
Bookings were heavy but there was no product to sell! [emphasis by poster].
The plant ran into problems building the rigs as changes were made right up
to the last minute.  All the rigs in the first batch had to be rerouted
through the line to be modified."
 
"To make matters worse, after the first production run was fixed and
shipped, the dials started sticking due to an assembly process failure.  The
line was shut down until the problem could be fixed.  Every single rig in
the plant had to be taken apart, new dials manufactured and replaced.  To
top it off, all the equipment previously shipped used the same dial material
so they had to be recalled and new dial parts installed."
 
Later in the book, Carney goes on to discuss headaches with vendor delays,
quality of parts, engineering changes, added features, etc.  It appears that
the Collins' famous S-Line was at least 6 months off their original ship
date.  
 
The book is interesting reading as we sit here, comfortably (anxiously)
awaiting our new K3, just a couple of weeks off target at this point.  Being
a partner in a small business myself, I realize that no business has
unlimited resources.  You staff for the norm.  When the norm becomes the
unusual, you scramble to minimize the impact and the delays.   Collins
didn't do too bad with their S-Line. 
 
My hat's off to those here who have seen fit to give the folks in Aptos the
"elbow room" they need to get us the best possible product in the most
timely manner, in spite of unexpected surprises along the way. 
 
73,
 
Terry, WØFM
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[N2EY]

In a message dated 9/7/07 2:08:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> I use an SG237 

The SG-237 is an unbalanced tuner. 




73 de Jim, N2EY


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[Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Craig D. Smith]

<> Doesn't an SGC fit this bill? I use an SG237 to tune a portable inverted
V
<> fed by 300ohm (or thereabouts) ribbon - arms cut at 20m, on a 10m
telescopic
<> pole and it tunes up on 80m - 10m a treat.

Yes, the SG237 can work.  Lots of people seem to like them, and some people
report frustration.  Note that SGC only rates the 237 at 40 watts
continuous.  I'm sure there is some degree of safety margin in the spec, but
I personally would not feel too comfortable running 100W CW with it for any
significant amount of time during a contest, especially since the tune
algorithm does its thing at full power unless you manually turn down your
power for tuning.  ICOM, in my opinion, has a better idea with the AH-4,
with automatic tune power reduction (with ICOM rig) and termination of the
transmitter into a matched load during tuning.  I use one now with my
IC-7000 and a ladderline fed non-resonant doublet.  Alas, it is not
plug-and-play with Elecraft or other rigs.  

Given Elecraft's knowledge and success with their other tuners (I loved the
internal tuner in my K2), I think they could do a bang up world-class job
with a remote tuner with automatic interface with the K3.  There (relatively
soon) will be thousands of K3s out there waiting for tuning solutions.  I
will be first in line to purchase a remote tuner when Elecraft announces it.
And I'm sure they will find a way to provide excellent performance with
balanced loads such as ladderline fed doublets, loops, etc.  

 73
   ... Craig   AC0DS




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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[N2EY]

In a message dated 9/6/07 2:30:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


>   don't know if people want it smaller, or they push 
> smaller stuff to the people, or if it's a young thing, or what.
> 

1) Smaller is usually less expensive to make, to pack, and to ship. (Smaller 
usually also means lighter, too).

2) A small thing can be used in more places than a large one. Like mobile.

3) As homes tend not to have basements and usable attics, people have less 
space. Yet they also tend to have/want more stuff. If the stuff is smaller, 
they 
can have more of it.

4) The size of old things was often determined by the size of the parts 
inside, and how much heat they gave off. Look at an ARC-5 receiver or 
transmitter - 
it can't get much smaller. As parts have shrunk, so have front panels.

5) If people buy the smaller stuff, the mfrs. make it.

This isn't a new thing. Back in the 1960s, W9BRD's "How's DX" column carried 
a story about how the author was trying out a new rig loaned by a friend. Nice 
"little" modern transceiver (NCX-3?) but the shack Siamese cat, Madame Mu, 
didn't like it because she could not comfortably rest atop it. 

73 de Jim, N2EY 


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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote on Friday, September 07, 2007 at 1:23 AM

Imagine being able to mount a weatherproof box outside, run the 
balanced-line
to it, then run coax into the shack - and the coax runs at very low SWR, 
so

it can be pretty long without having much loss.

Seems to me that the basic principles used in the KAT2 and other 
relay-based

ATUs could be adapted to a balanced tuner.




Just remember that some relays are very noisy when operating e.g. those in 
the KAT100, so the weatherproof box must also act as a soundproof enclosure 
to avoid waking up any neighbours if you are on the low bands, for example, 
at some unholy hour.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD 



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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Julian G4ILO]

Perhaps the solution is to think outside the box. Literally.

I mean, there is no need for a bandscope to be part of the radio main
display, just because Icom does it that way. All that is needed is a
plug-in module that can be added with a coaxial socket on it, that can
be plugged in to an external display. You could even use a portable
LCD TV for the display, as some IC-7000 users do because the built in
one is too small.

For quick access to control functions something like a TV remote
control could be used. You would need an infra red module in the K3.
Perhaps an actual TV remote could be used to save costs. Some of these
are highly programmable with a touch screen. Or you could use
dedicated software on a PDA.

-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com


On 9/7/07, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Elecraft did say the K3 was built to the size it is - and by the number of
> orders taken they obviously made the correct decision (I managed to hold out
> for 24 hours). The layout and usage will be great - but something like my
> old Drake TR-7 was simpler to use (just like the operator).
>
> The Who summed it up in 1971: 'Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy', just the way I
> want my radios :-)
>
> Simon Brown, HB9DRV
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Charles Harpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> >
> > My IC-775dsp is a BIG rig and I love operating it, and it has NO menus but
> > a knob for everything ideal for HAM RADIO, not commercial or whatever.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Oh, I think I understand the distinction your making now.


On 7/9/07 09:12, "Ian J Maude" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>> Isn't an inverted V balanced? - Sorry, I'm still new to this - SGC certainly
>> does tune balanced antennas afaik - there are lots of examples of that
>> quoted in the forums.
>>   
> The antenna *could* be balanced, dependent on what you feed it with.
> The SCG tuner will tune balanced aerial systems but is not AFAIK a
> balanced tuner.
> 
> Ian
>> In the manual (http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Manuals/237man.pdf),
>> page 22 shows both a dipole and an inverted V.
>> 
>> 
>> On 7/9/07 08:29, "Ian J Maude" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:
>> 
>>   
>>> David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>>> 
 Doesn't an SGC fit this bill? I use an SG237 to tune a portable inverted V
 fed by 300ohm (or thereabouts) ribbon - arms cut at 20m, on a 10m
 telescopic
 pole and it tunes up on 80m - 10m a treat.
 
 Am I missing something in your post?
   
   
>>> Yes, you are missing the word 'balanced' :-)
>>> 
>>> Ian
>>> 
>> 
>>   
> 

-- 
When I am working on a problem I never think about beauty.
I only think about how to solve the problem.
But when I have finished, if the solution is not beautiful,
I know it is wrong.
-R. Buckminster Fuller, engineer, designer, and architect (1895-1983)


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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

Elecraft did say the K3 was built to the size it is - and by the number of 
orders taken they obviously made the correct decision (I managed to hold out 
for 24 hours). The layout and usage will be great - but something like my 
old Drake TR-7 was simpler to use (just like the operator).


The Who summed it up in 1971: 'Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy', just the way I 
want my radios :-)


Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message - 
From: "Charles Harpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>





My IC-775dsp is a BIG rig and I love operating it, and it has NO menus but 
a knob for everything ideal for HAM RADIO, not commercial or whatever. 


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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Ian J Maude]

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

Isn't an inverted V balanced? - Sorry, I'm still new to this - SGC certainly
does tune balanced antennas afaik - there are lots of examples of that
quoted in the forums.
  
The antenna *could* be balanced, dependent on what you feed it with.  
The SCG tuner will tune balanced aerial systems but is not AFAIK a 
balanced tuner.


Ian

In the manual (http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Manuals/237man.pdf),
page 22 shows both a dipole and an inverted V.


On 7/9/07 08:29, "Ian J Maude" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

  

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:


Doesn't an SGC fit this bill? I use an SG237 to tune a portable inverted V
fed by 300ohm (or thereabouts) ribbon - arms cut at 20m, on a 10m telescopic
pole and it tunes up on 80m - 10m a treat.

Am I missing something in your post?
  
  

Yes, you are missing the word 'balanced' :-)

Ian



  



--
Ian J Maude G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member of RSGB, ARRL, GQRP
K2 #4044 | K3 #?

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced AT

[Ian J Maude]

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

Doesn't an SGC fit this bill? I use an SG237 to tune a portable inverted V
fed by 300ohm (or thereabouts) ribbon - arms cut at 20m, on a 10m telescopic
pole and it tunes up on 80m - 10m a treat.

Am I missing something in your post?
  

Yes, you are missing the word 'balanced' :-)

Ian

--
Ian J Maude G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member of RSGB, ARRL, GQRP
K2 #4044 | K3 #?

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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

Indeed - I have a K3 on order and would pay $1,000 more for a nice 19" big 
panel. Same as we have now, just bigger. Bigger buttons, bigger labels, nice 
4" tuning knob (like the FTDX-9000).


The age profile of Hams who can afford new radios must show that we're 
suffering from the age-related problems such as poor eyesight, less flexible 
fingers and easy confusion when presented with lots of small buttons (one 
reason why I like my TS-480SAT).


So - for me the K4 would be the K3 in a bigger box with maybe a nice big 
speaker and 10W audio amp. I don't need a panoramic display there - nice but 
not essential as I would plug a 19" monitor into the radio / panoramic 
display unit anyway.


An example of a nice clean layout in a big radio is the up-coming ICOM 
IC-7700, much better than the overloaded IC-7800 front panel as the IC-7700 
doesn't have to cope with dual receivers.


Bottom line I guess - I don't want to wear my reading glasses to use the K3. 
Got to find the glasses first which always takes 10 minutes.


Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message - 
From: "Charles Harpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




Face it, MOST operators like a large front panel.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Weekly Status 9/6/2007

[dj7mgq]

Thank you, Eric!

It sounds very stressful but you still seem to be enjoying yourself.

vy 73 de toby

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