[Elecraft] microkeyer and K2

[Steve Bunting]

Hi Folks,

I have been trying to hook my K2 to a microham microkeyer. I have the rx 
audio working OK via J5 and also the cw, but cannot get the tx audio 
(either afsk or wav files) to work, although the PTT works fine. The mic 
is set up for Kenwood as microham recommend and works with a kenwood mic 
plugged into the rig. I have got myself thoroughly confused as to audio 
switching routes for the various modes. Is there anyone here who could 
share their wisdom?


Many thanks!
Steve
M0BPQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Q regarding DSP filtering [K3]

[David Woolley]

Vic K2VCO wrote:
DaleJ wrote:


Are the DSP filters within the agc loop?  I can't seem to find 


For the K2 no.  For the K3 read on.


anything about
this in the manual.  


Yes, the main AGC loop includes the DSP filters. But there is also a 


More precisely, the main AGC function is entirely implemented in 
firmware.  The Elecraft schematics do not include the equivalent signal 
flows in the firmware, and they can vary from release to release, 
however, I would expect the AGC function to be implemted betwee IF and 
AF filters, but the AGC loop not to actually contain either filter, so 
that the IF signal processing is done with maximum signals, to maximise 
dynamic range.  Doing it before the AF DSP would, I think, be essential 
in order to support FM and full carrier AM.


'hardware' AGC that kicks in on very strong (S9+30) signals that are 


I would expect this loop to sense the signal immediately after A/D 
conversion, to allow the rig to prevent the A/D convertor from clipping.


within the crystal passband but outside of the DSP passband. This 


I think the function is needed for signals within the passband, as well, 
as it will be there to prevent the A/D convertor saturating.



--
David Woolley
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Re: [Elecraft] REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[David Woolley]

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Rod,

If you keep it dry, electronics will store nicely for a good long time.  
Temperature is not a consideration as long as condensation is 


Although not as significant as when devices are under bias, the 
Arrhenius equations still implies that the failure rate will have an 
exponential dependence on temperature and thermal cycling will still 
cause mechanical stress.  I'd guess that the combination of under bias 
degradation and thermal shock from operation will probably age the 
system more in a few weeks of operation than two years of storage, though.


The other consideration for long storage, although probably not for two 
to three years with modern components, is that eletrolytics will 
depolarize; that can result in excessive currents if there is no natural 
current limitation, until the oxide reforms.  If the current is too 
limited, it may prevent them reforming, which is, I suspect, how the 
electronics in one of my cameras died when I didn't use it for several 
years.


I'd guess a couple of years is OK with modern components, but it would 
be advisable to power it up overnight from time to time if it is going 
to be mothballed for a very long time.  This is the main reason why very 
old equipment, which hasn't been used for a long time, should be treated 
with extreme care, as old electrolytics can explode quite spectacularly 
if their oxide has decayed and they are effectively short circuit. 
Modern ones are  designed to break open before they explode.


Because some power lines are only active on transmit, you may need to 
key the transmitter, at low power, into a dummy load, to ensure that the 
electrolytics are reformed.


controlled.  If it is at a temperature extreme when put back into 




--
David Woolley
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that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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[Elecraft] Microphone capsule for K2

[Karsten Eppert (DK4AS)]

I have purchased together with my K2 an MH2 microphone short before it 
was discontinued two years ago.

The reports I receive always state, that the mike has too much bass.
The filters of my K2 were checked with spectrogram and - to me - appear 
correct.


In parallel I have tried a cheap boomset with an electret-mike. That 
resulted in unfavourable reports like "sounds like a c-class-amplifier. 
Too little bias current". So I checked the bias and it is ok.


Well - I?m looking for a good alternative now, but which one to select?

Go for a Heil Proset K2? I figure, that one contains the Heil 
iC-electret-capsule. But what are the specs?


Go and replace the electret-capsule of my MD2 with a Heil HC-5-capsule? 
What disadvantages will I have with such solution regarding frequency 
response as the HC-5 apparently is a dynamic or condenser mike?


Can anybody share his experience with me?

73
Karsten
DK4AS
K2 #4764
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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[David Woolley]

John Magliacane wrote:

When it comes to antenna efficiency, it is important to understand
that when RF energy is applied to any antenna, three things will
invariably happen:


For antennas in practical locations, at least one other thing will happen:

d) The antenna will convert part of the AC power into (near field) 
electromagnetic energy which will induce currents in the ground, 
building structure, wiring, water and gas pipes, etc.  Much of that 
energy will be converted to heat after it has lost, although some will 
be re-radiated (I believe, in extreme cases, if the current is induced 
in something large enough and resonant, the re-radiator can become the 
actual antenna and the antenna act as a feed device, but, normally, for 
low, and indoor antennas, this is where most of the energy turns to heat).


Normally, even without losses, induced currents in the ground below a, 
low, horizontal dipole will tend to cancel the far field signal, 
resulting in less power actually being radiated, and a lower radiation 
resistance, requiring even lower losses in all components from antenna 
wire back to and including the ATU.


(One way of considering the far field is that you need to create a 
relatively large electric or magnetic field far enough from the antenna 
that its phase lags that close to the antenna by a significant amount.)



c) The antenna will reflect a portion of the applied AC voltage and
current back to the transmitter as a result of an impedance mismatch
between the antenna and that of the source.


This reflection abstraction causes a lot of confusion.  It is possibly 
easier to see it as simply a bad match between the transmitter source 
impedance (which is usually rather different from the optimum load 
impedance) and the antenna impedance, causing most of the DC input to 
the transmitter to end up as heat in the output devices.




Unless steel or nichrome wire is used, or electrically poor
connections exist in the antenna structure, losses due to (b)
will be low.


As already pointed out, skin effect means that this is not true.  People 
experimenting with small magnetic loops have to use large copper pipes 
to keep ohmic losses manageable.  (In some cases I suspect they are 
still high compared to radiation resistance, but lower than the near 
field loss resistance.)



Effects of (c) can be reduced or eliminated by using intelligent,
low-loss impedance matching techniques and low-loss feedline.
(Technically, reflected power isn't a "loss" per se, since
energy isn't dissipated when a reflection occurs.)


Note that devices capable of doing this for the sort of antenna being 
considered in this thread are not easy to find, if they can be found at 
all.  For example, the KAT2 has a 10:1 SWR matching specification, but 
matching the antenna discussed here, at infinite height above the 
ground, needs a 250:1 range, or more.  They can also have power losses.



That leaves us with (a), the desired outcome of applying RF energy to
an antenna.  Since losses due to (b) and (c) are typically low and/or
easily corrected, it is very difficult NOT to achieve high antenna
system efficiency.


(b) and (c) are not typically low for the sort of antenna considered 
here, although (c) isn't really achievable, anyway.




Shortening the physical length of an antenna below that of a
half-wavelength DOES NOT reduce its efficiency provided the
necessary efforts to minimize resistive losses in the antenna
structure and the impedance matching networks are made.


But, apart from possibly cooling everything to near absolute zero, they 
cannot be made.




That last statement is so important and so often misunderstood,
it bears repeating:


I'd agree that there is a misunderstanding that is common.  It arises 
because people have difficulty with the idea that an antenna can have a 
capture area that is a lot bigger than the antenna, and because people 
don't understand that the real limitation on small antennas is power 
losses.  Large antennas have gains that equate to directivity, and 
people try to extrapolate these down to small antennas, whereas there 
are no Maxwellian reasons why a small antenna cannot be efficient, only 
materials science, engineering and environmental ones.


If we were to apply 100 watts to such an antenna, and we get zero
watts reflected back, and the antenna and matching networks remain
cool, then 100 watts of RF energy is being radiated from that one
foot dipole -- the same as if a full-sized dipole were used.


Radiation is normally used to refer to far field radiation, which is the 
only radiation useful for normal ham radio communications.  The antenna 
can remain cool even if all the power is going into heating up the 
ground, or the re-inforcing bars in your concrete building.




The penalties for using physically shortened antennas are:

(a) Decreased operating bandwidth


I'm not sure that is inevitably true.  My reference for normal mode 
helices included them in the sec

[Elecraft] FS: K2 S/N 3900 with options

[Dick Housden, W0NTA]

I have for sale my favorite K2, serial number 3900. This radio has served me
extremely well during many ragchews, Fox Hunts, and contests over the past
almost four years. I have built four K2s, and now it is time to try the K3.
Meanwhile, I will use my other K2/100. This K2, 3900, is in excellent shape
cosmetically with no marks on the cabinet. It is 100% electronically. It
includes:
K2   Basic K2 (#3900)
KSB2 Internal sideband generator board (late board with newer crystals)
KNB2 Internal noise blanker board
KAF2 Internal audio filter board
K160RX   Internal 160 meter board
KAT2 Internal auto antenna tuner
Currently setup for 600 Hz sidetone and offset. CW filters set at 1000, 700,
400, and 250 Hz. using Spectrogram. Microphone jumpers are set for the
Elecraft MH2 microphone. (Not included)
This is a Revision B main board radio, which includes many upgrades over the
pre-3000 serial number units. Firmware is:
K2 MCU 2.03D   K2 IOC 1.07   KSB2 1.08b
Includes manuals for all modules. Includes power cable with PowerPole on
power supply end.
Price, including shipping to US is $825.00. I will email a PDF file with
pictures on request. Please contact me at w0nta at arrl.net.
72/73, Dick, W0NTA


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[Elecraft] K2 with RIGblaster Plus and MMTTY program for RTTY?

[Charlie, W0YG]

Anyone running this combination?  I am just hooking my modem up and need to
know a couple of things.  If you reply off the list, perhaps we can take my
questions elsewhere so as not to burden the folks not interested.

Thanks and 73,

Charlie, W0YG..>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone capsule for K2

[David Wilburn]

I recently went back through and addressed my SSB alingments.  A couple
of important pieces of information that were passed to me, were;

A- set the bottom of the passband, so it starts a 300hz.  This is a very
near thing and relates closely to B.  I found, to get B correct, that I
had to set it so somewhere between half and three quarters of the slope
of the left side of the passband, was at the 300hz point.  

B- once you have set the passband (both upper and lower) stick a piece
of wire in the antenna connection of another rig, and transmit K2 into a
dummy load.  You can then make changes as needed.  

I initially set the bottom of the left edge of the passband at 300hz,
and the signals sounded high and pinched.  I then went back,
transmitting on the K2, and listening on another rig, and sorted it out.
Make sure and perform this on U & L sidebands and check it out on each
band.  I had U sideband on 80m sounding good, even though this is not
used, but then U sideband of 20m did not sound right.  It is sounding
more complicated that it really is.  Once you start listening on the
other rig, it comes together fairly quickly.

Just be careful after all of this, if you have KDSP2 and the KPA100,
putting it all back together.  I knocked a SMT cap off of my KDSP2 and
now it is KAPUT1. ;)
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 13:29 +0100, Karsten Eppert (DK4AS) wrote:
> I have purchased together with my K2 an MH2 microphone short before it 
> was discontinued two years ago.
> The reports I receive always state, that the mike has too much bass.
> The filters of my K2 were checked with spectrogram and - to me - appear 
> correct.
> 
> In parallel I have tried a cheap boomset with an electret-mike. That 
> resulted in unfavourable reports like "sounds like a c-class-amplifier. 
> Too little bias current". So I checked the bias and it is ok.
> 
> Well - I?m looking for a good alternative now, but which one to select?
> 
> Go for a Heil Proset K2? I figure, that one contains the Heil 
> iC-electret-capsule. But what are the specs?
> 
> Go and replace the electret-capsule of my MD2 with a Heil HC-5-capsule? 
> What disadvantages will I have with such solution regarding frequency 
> response as the HC-5 apparently is a dynamic or condenser mike?
> 
> Can anybody share his experience with me?
> 
> 73
> Karsten
> DK4AS
> K2 #4764
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[Elecraft] [K3] pf key to change RF

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Sorry, being thick here, but is there a way to program a PF1 (or M1 etc) key
to change my RF to 5w, without affecting any other setting on the K3?
-- 
Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons,
For you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup!


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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone capsule for K2

[David Wilburn]

I have a MH2, and going back and reviewing the SSB passband and filter
alignment helped me quite a bit.  It sounds fine, though I heard through
another on the list that they had success with their Proset with HC5
without the preamp.  I tried it out with a friend listening, and it
worked just fine, and is now what I use.  I do notice that it is
impacted by the nearness of the mic to my mouth, so it would likely have
more dynamic activity with a preamp, but I am driving to a full signal
with the current setup.

If you are not getting good reports with the MH2, then switching to
another, similar mic (or even the HC5) will not help.  First thing you
need to do is check you passband, make sure they start at 300hz and then
listen to both U & L sideband on another rig.
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 13:29 +0100, Karsten Eppert (DK4AS) wrote:
> I have purchased together with my K2 an MH2 microphone short before it 
> was discontinued two years ago.
> The reports I receive always state, that the mike has too much bass.
> The filters of my K2 were checked with spectrogram and - to me - appear 
> correct.
> 
> In parallel I have tried a cheap boomset with an electret-mike. That 
> resulted in unfavourable reports like "sounds like a c-class-amplifier. 
> Too little bias current". So I checked the bias and it is ok.
> 
> Well - I?m looking for a good alternative now, but which one to select?
> 
> Go for a Heil Proset K2? I figure, that one contains the Heil 
> iC-electret-capsule. But what are the specs?
> 
> Go and replace the electret-capsule of my MD2 with a Heil HC-5-capsule? 
> What disadvantages will I have with such solution regarding frequency 
> response as the HC-5 apparently is a dynamic or condenser mike?
> 
> Can anybody share his experience with me?
> 
> 73
> Karsten
> DK4AS
> K2 #4764
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with RIGblaster Plus and MMTTY program for RTTY?

[David Wilburn]

I am VERY interested, and I have heard of folks using this combination
successfully.  I made the mistake of assuming the setup would not work,
and gave away my rigblaster to a friend, only to find out otherwise
latter.
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 05:58 -0800, Charlie, W0YG wrote:
> Anyone running this combination?  I am just hooking my modem up and need to
> know a couple of things.  If you reply off the list, perhaps we can take my
> questions elsewhere so as not to burden the folks not interested.
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Charlie, W0YG..>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with RIGblaster Plus and MMTTY program for RTTY?

[R. Kevin Stover]

I'm using the Rigblaster+ with my K2/100 on all digital modes.
What's the question?



On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 09:22:41 -0500
David Wilburn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I am VERY interested, and I have heard of folks using this combination
> successfully.  I made the mistake of assuming the setup would not
> work, and gave away my rigblaster to a friend, only to find out
> otherwise latter.
> -  
> 
> David Wilburn
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> K4DGW
> K2 S/N 5982
> 
> 
> On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 05:58 -0800, Charlie, W0YG wrote:
> > Anyone running this combination?  I am just hooking my modem up and
> > need to know a couple of things.  If you reply off the list,
> > perhaps we can take my questions elsewhere so as not to burden the
> > folks not interested.
> > 
> > Thanks and 73,
> > 
> > Charlie, W0YG..>>
> 
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-- 
R. Kevin Stover, AC0H
K2/100 #4684
Fists #11993
SKCC #215
ARRL
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[Elecraft] [K3] pf key to change RF

[Dave G4AON]

Not at the moment, but it may be on Wayne's "to do" list, it has been 
mentioned previously on the list. It would be very handy for linear and 
external ATU tuning. Same idea as Kenwood offer on their TS-480 with the 
programmable key that will output a fixed level of RF from 5 - 100 Watts 
in 1 Watt steps from any mode and from any power level at a single key 
press.


Dave
K3/100 #80
=
Sorry, being thick here, but is there a way to program a PF1 (or M1 etc) key
to change my RF to 5w, without affecting any other setting on the K3?
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with RIGblaster Plus and MMTTY program for RTTY?

[Charlie, W0YG]

OK I got the K2 going. I was wondering where the remote PTT line was but it
is simple, the mike PTT keys the K2.  No problems now.  Listening to RTTY
signals on 40M now.  

73,

Charlie, W0YG..>>


R. Kevin Stover wrote:
> 
> I'm using the Rigblaster+ with my K2/100 on all digital modes.
> What's the question?
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 09:22:41 -0500
> David Wilburn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> I am VERY interested, and I have heard of folks using this combination
>> successfully.  I made the mistake of assuming the setup would not
>> work, and gave away my rigblaster to a friend, only to find out
>> otherwise latter.
>> -  
>> 
>> David Wilburn
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> K4DGW
>> K2 S/N 5982
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 05:58 -0800, Charlie, W0YG wrote:
>> > Anyone running this combination?  I am just hooking my modem up and
>> > need to know a couple of things.  If you reply off the list,
>> > perhaps we can take my questions elsewhere so as not to burden the
>> > folks not interested.
>> > 
>> > Thanks and 73,
>> > 
>> > Charlie, W0YG..>>
>> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> R. Kevin Stover, AC0H
> K2/100 #4684
> Fists #11993
> SKCC #215
> ARRL
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with RIGblaster Plus and MMTTY program for RTTY?

[David Wilburn]

I was wondering where they are initiating PTT from?  Serial Port,
Parallel Port, or VOX?
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 08:37 -0600, R. Kevin Stover wrote:
> I'm using the Rigblaster+ with my K2/100 on all digital modes.
> What's the question?
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 09:22:41 -0500
> David Wilburn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > I am VERY interested, and I have heard of folks using this combination
> > successfully.  I made the mistake of assuming the setup would not
> > work, and gave away my rigblaster to a friend, only to find out
> > otherwise latter.
> > -  
> > 
> > David Wilburn
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > K4DGW
> > K2 S/N 5982
> > 
> > 
> > On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 05:58 -0800, Charlie, W0YG wrote:
> > > Anyone running this combination?  I am just hooking my modem up and
> > > need to know a couple of things.  If you reply off the list,
> > > perhaps we can take my questions elsewhere so as not to burden the
> > > folks not interested.
> > > 
> > > Thanks and 73,
> > > 
> > > Charlie, W0YG..>>
> > 
> > ___
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> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] pf key to change RF

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Yes, Wayne has said that is coming sometime - while I'm waiting, I wondered
if I could just change RF level with a key.
No problem, time to play with AppleScript, MacLoggerDX and its direct
commands interface to send the appropriate cat command

On 6/1/08 14:53, "Dave G4AON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:
> Not at the moment, but it may be on Wayne's "to do" list, it has been
> mentioned previously on the list. It would be very handy for linear and
> external ATU tuning. Same idea as Kenwood offer on their TS-480 with the
> programmable key that will output a fixed level of RF from 5 - 100 Watts
> in 1 Watt steps from any mode and from any power level at a single key
> press.
-- 
The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit.
-Moliere, actor and playwright (1622-1673)


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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[bill KE5KWE]

Let me bring this down to the practical world.  My QTH is a 42.5 ft. Travel
Trailer which is insulated from the ground by 6 Rubber Tires and Air.  It
has Metal, I presume Aluminum, siding and a Rubber over Wood Roof which is
approx. 10 ft. off the ground.  My K2 is almost built and I will be
operating CW exclusively QRP.  Are there any suggestions for either a
commercially built antenna or a homebrew. (Recognizing that I am not a EE
and have no formal electrical background!)

Thanks

Bill Fogel, KE5KWE
"On the Road in the USA"


This thread started with a person trying to find an
antenna that would work reasonably well that does not
take up much space. 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/dipole-antenna-efficiency-tp14609719p14650029.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] pf key to change RF

[David Wilburn]

Might want to check this out.  

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg45192.html 
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 14:15 +, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
> Sorry, being thick here, but is there a way to program a PF1 (or M1 etc) key
> to change my RF to 5w, without affecting any other setting on the K3?

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with RIGblaster Plus and MMTTY program for RTTY?

[Bob Nielsen]

I haven't used my Rigblaster Plus recently but recall that it uses  
the serial port, although VOX would probably work also.


Bob, N7XY

On Jan 6, 2008, at 7:21 AM, David Wilburn wrote:


I was wondering where they are initiating PTT from?  Serial Port,
Parallel Port, or VOX?
-

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 08:37 -0600, R. Kevin Stover wrote:

I'm using the Rigblaster+ with my K2/100 on all digital modes.
What's the question?



On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 09:22:41 -0500
David Wilburn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I am VERY interested, and I have heard of folks using this  
combination

successfully.  I made the mistake of assuming the setup would not
work, and gave away my rigblaster to a friend, only to find out
otherwise latter.
-

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 05:58 -0800, Charlie, W0YG wrote:

Anyone running this combination?  I am just hooking my modem up and
need to know a couple of things.  If you reply off the list,
perhaps we can take my questions elsewhere so as not to burden the
folks not interested.

Thanks and 73,

Charlie, W0YG..>>


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Bob Nielsen
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[Ken Kopp]

Bill,

My Lady and I are serious half-time RV'ers and I've had
very good results with my K2 into a modified High Sierra 
screwdriver on a 5th-wheel Holiday Rambler.


I'll send you photos.  It's also pictured on K0BG's mobile
site.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 


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RE: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I'd go "mobile" Bill. Like an automobile (at least when they had significant
metal), the frame of your trailer will provide capacitive coupling to ground
and you can use a short, loaded  vertical "mobile antenna" such as sold for
use on automobiles. 

It will be a very inefficient antenna, compared to a half-wave long antenna
up 1/2 wavelength or more in the sky, or a vertical that's a full 1/4
wavelength long working against an ideal ground, but you will make contacts
- lots of them when band cdx are decent. Hams have made contacts all over
the world at QRP power levels for decades with just such setups, even on
phone.

I know many operators have excellent results with the "screwdriver" types of
mobile whips. Those have motors to adjust the loading coil according to the
frequency of operation so you can "tune" from inside the trailer. The better
your installation, the sharper the tuning. As others noted, a reasonably
efficient shortened antenna has high "Q" - that is the bandwidth between,
say, SWR of 2:1 is much, much smaller than a full sized antenna so you want
to be able to adjust it easily. I know one or two operators who routinely
use that type of antenna at their homes, where they have little space or
time to fiddle with other options.  

I would also plan to mount the antenna on the roof, even if that means
taking it down (unscrewing it from a mount affixed permanently and
water-tight on the roof) when traveling. After all, that should only require
a moment's work to erect or stow it and it's well worth the effort. The
majority of the radiation from such an antenna will be at its base. Keeping
the base away from "ground" (the metal parts of the  trailer) and as high as
possible will help your signal a lot. Putting it in the center will produce
the most uniform pattern. Putting it one end will produce a stronger signal
in the direction of the trailer. 

Once you do that and you are happily operating QRP from your trailer, you'll
find endless things you can "do" with your antenna installation, depending
upon your circumstances and interests. Some of them might be:

1) Improve the ground system. Instead of relying on the capacitive coupling
between the metal and ground, arrange to string some "radials" on the ground
or insulated slightly above the ground that are easy to deploy and not a
trip hazard. 

2) Improve the antenna. You might find you are in situations where you'll be
spending a few days with a handy tree nearby, etc., and you get the wire,
etc., needed to throw a longer antenna over a tree limb and connect it to
the mount on top of the trailer in place of the normal antenna. You'll want
an ATU at the rig to do that, and  that means your coaxial feeder will be
operating at a very high SWR (which produces loss) but those things should
be minimal because the coax shouldn't be so terribly long in a trailer! Some
mobile ops do this with a wire and a clip lead that they just clip onto
their regular whip for when they can add it. Every foot of wire will improve
your antenna's efficiency. 

3) Another way you might considering improving your antenna would be to
investigate surplus military "whip" antennas that show up on the market from
time to time. Some of these are 15 or 20 feet long! Over the years more than
one trailer traveler has arranged such a whip, mounting at the top of his
trailer but at one end. Then he could either tilt the mount or just bend the
tip over and tie it at the opposite end when in motion, making the whole rig
only a couple of feet higher than without the antenna. A number of hams have
bought a "full sized" loaded vertical intended for home use and arranged a
tilt-over mount for it on their trailer. After all, most of those antennas
are never more than 12 or 18 feet tall and the upper section can often be
disassembled if needed for transport. 

4) Consider *where* you go in your trailer! A trip to the seashore, mountain
or open desert can produce unexpected and amazing DX from even the simplest
locations by reducing the sort of losses to surrounding objects and the
earth itself for several wavelengths around us that most of us in fixed
locations cannot do anything about. 

Those things all depend upon how your interests and opportunities develop
over time. One thing for sure is that you'll have a lot of fun operating and
make lots of contacts even if you just use the basic mobile antenna
installation. 

Ron AC7AC





-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of bill KE5KWE
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 7:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency



Let me bring this down to the practical world.  My QTH is a 42.5 ft. Travel
Trailer which is insulated from the ground by 6 Rubber Tires and Air.  It
has Metal, I presume Aluminum, siding and a Rubber over Wood Roof which is
approx. 10 ft. off the ground.  My K2 is almost built and I will be
operating CW exclusively QRP.  Are there any sug

Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[ARDUJENSKI]

Interesting discussion. I have a question  regarding this topic I hope the 
more learned in the group cans help clarify.  Although efficiency is important 
is determining an antenna selection, is antenna  lobe pattern just as 
important? If the lobe pattern did not allow you to say  work DX or to work a 
particular direction then is efficiency all that important?  Should we look at 
the 
desired pattern for a particular operating goal then  consider the antenna 
efficiency?

Alan KB7MBI
Woodinville, WA
FISTS:  5702   CC: 1885   ARS: 582
SKCC: 1988   NAQCC:  058   ARCI: 12141  




**Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape. 
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489
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[Elecraft] Grounding K2 Mic Connector

[Roy Morris]

I am presently using two small compression springs attached to each side of the 
standoffs at the mic jack.  These springs snug against the mic jack on two 
sides grounding the jack.   Over time these springs tend to oxidize preventing 
a good contact.  I don't like using the wire loop method of grounding as it is 
a variation of my method.  I would like to know if the mic jack metal will 
accept solder with a reasonable amount of heat using a 100/140 watt soldering 
gun.  Has anyone grounded the mic jack this way?  Thanks,  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding K2 Mic Connector

[Don Wilhelm]

Roy,

I do it on all K2s I work on which have  the KSB2 option installed.
I always solder to the mic jack and to the ground plane right below it 
(scrape away a bit of the green solder mask material).  Yes, it takes a 
good deal of heat to bring the jack shell up to temperature.  Heat it 
with a 'big gun' until the solder flows on the shell.  I solder on a 
small "L" shaped piece of wire - leave it long until after it is 
soldered in so you can hold onto the wire with pliers..


73,
Don W3FPR

Roy Morris wrote:

I am presently using two small compression springs attached to each side of the 
standoffs at the mic jack.  These springs snug against the mic jack on two 
sides grounding the jack.   Over time these springs tend to oxidize preventing 
a good contact.  I don't like using the wire loop method of grounding as it is 
a variation of my method.  I would like to know if the mic jack metal will 
accept solder with a reasonable amount of heat using a 100/140 watt soldering 
gun.  Has anyone grounded the mic jack this way?  Thanks,  Roy Morris  W4WFB

  

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R: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[paolo.gramigna]

 

Hi Bill,
I second in full what Ron told you. I would like to add my "two cents" of
personal experience...

Building an Elecraft K2 was a good choice. I have one too, together with
countless other radios; the difference is that the K2 stays, the other
radios have been sold. It is a very nice rig, with outstanding performances.


Working QRP CW is a good idea as well. If you manage to put up a decent
antenna, you will be able to work *any* station that you will hear, with
only one exception: those stations located in a very noisy, urban
environment where the s-meter reads noise at S8 all across the whole band,
and you need S9 to be heard. But believe me, 97% of Earth's surface is not
so noisy, and DX locations are usually the quietest.

Last, I strongly advice you to include the internal ATU option in your K2.
Believe me, it is worth every cent of his cost and it is optimized for
mobile installations. 

A screwdriver antenna can be a good choice, but I have another idea. Most
probably you will not be able to operate while driving, especially on CW, so
the most important factor will be to have a good and efficient antenna while
parked.
Take a look here: 
http://www.iv3sbe.webfundis.net/html/Rybakov806.htm

I have personally used this antenna, and still I use it. It is made of a 9
meters long fishing rod (about 24') with a toroidal transformer at the base.
It can be purchased online, but I'll suggest you to make one yourself; the
toroid can be found online (Google Amidon Associates or Palomar Engineers)
and the length of the fishing rod is not critical. The internal ATU of your
K2 will match this antenna in a breeze.

Upon arriving at your selected location, you just whip the fishrod/antenna
to her full length, tape a thin wire along it, and fix the base to any
suitable post (you can fix one permanently on a corner of your vehicle).
Then spread a few radials around; any length will do; just one will work,
but a few radials at least one quarter wave long will work WAY better. Just
have a look at your SWR and prune those radials for best matching (place an
external, inexpensive SWR meter between the K" and the antenna for that). It
must be done only once.

For those lucky days when there is a nice tree around, you will just connect
a longer wire to the toroid and launch it up in the tree. If you have two
trees, you can make an inverted L; and sometimes you will be able to make a
homebuilt G5RV: anybody capable to build a K2 will build a G5RV in an
afternoon, and the cost can be virtually nil. Look here:
http://www.eham.net/forums/Elmers/2156 for advices.

Now, the "fish rod" vertical antenna will be very good for DX (low radiation
angle, good efficiency) while the G5RV will be good for low bands and NVIS
connections (I mean, within 350 miles or so in low bands). And believe me,
you will enjoy your rig and your antennas MUCH MORE than some monsters...
Look here for the biggest I've seen: http://www.kkn.net/dayton2006/K9LTN.pdf


By the way, I also own an Elecraft KX-1 with the internal ATU. The size of a
cigar box including batteries, 24' of wire as an antenna. I carry it in my
backpack. I worked all of Europe from an Italian hill in a single afternoon
with it. With CW, power is NOT a factor.

Finally, you will enjoy the results of your own good work. Not being a
technician is not an excuse; ask Guglielmo Marconi for that!

Cheers (and 73)
IK4YNG Paolo


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RE: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Absolutely pattern is of significance, Alan, but unless you have a lot of
space, there's not much one can do about the pattern of HF antennas and most
wire antennas will be omni directional at heights most Hams can achieve on
typical lots. 

Even a full-sized 1/2 wave horizontal antenna is essentially omni
directional unless it's at least 1/2 wavelength high in the air! So you need
a 66 foot run in the correct orientation with a 66 foot high supports to
plan a specific pattern with a simple 40 meter dipole. And, even then, it's
very, very broad with a maximum front/side ratio of perhaps one S-unit. Put
that dipole up at a more typical height of 30 feet and its maximum radiation
is absolutely unidirectional and straight up! 

You can squeeze some significant directivity out of lower, smaller antennas
with Yagi Ueda or cubical quad "beam" designs, but it's fairly minimal
unless you can get it up near 1/2 wavelength off of the ground. That's why
most Hams don't bother with "beams" - Yagis or Quads - except on 14 MHz and
above where they can get them up high enough to be effective. 

Perhaps the biggest pattern issue most Hams working at HF can reasonably
tackle is the question of vertical vs. horizontal polarization, and even
then the differences aren't all that great unless the horizontal antenna is
at least 1/3 to 1/2 wavelength above ground or the vertical is over an
excellent ground (e.g. over salt water) that extends for many wavelengths in
at least the important directions. 

The end result is the vertical vs. horizontal question is usually settled
based on the space limitations. That's why few horizontal antennas are found
in use on 160 and 80 meters compared to the other bands.

On the other hand, efficiency drops like a stone as an antenna is made
physically small. That's something we can address, at least in a small way,
by getting clever about making the antenna as large as possible, minimizing
resistive losses in the conductors and minimizing ground losses. 

Sometimes Hams are confused when they see patterns published for very small
antennas such as mobile whips mounted on a car. An azimuth plot will show a
significant pattern suggesting the signal is much stronger in certain
directions. That's true, but the important issue is that directivity is a
measure of inefficiency, not gain. That is, those patterns show the
directions where the losses are slightly lower than in other directions, so
the signal appears somewhat stronger in those directions! Those are exactly
the things we can address: how to make some small improvement in efficiency
that improves the signal. Sometimes we can make our small, low antennas less
INefficient in the most desirable direction. For example, a mobile at the
beach might discover it's easier to work DX across the ocean in that
direction than it is to work someone a few hundred miles away across land in
another direction. That's because the losses over the salt water are less
than over the land, but it's still not a very efficient antenna. 

Bottom line is that it comes down to tackling issues we can do something
about and not fretting over those we can't. We can often do something about
efficiency where we often cannot do something about the pattern. 

Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
Interesting discussion. I have a question  regarding this topic I hope the 
more learned in the group cans help clarify.  Although efficiency is
important 
is determining an antenna selection, is antenna  lobe pattern just as 
important? If the lobe pattern did not allow you to say  work DX or to work
a 
particular direction then is efficiency all that important?  Should we look
at the 
desired pattern for a particular operating goal then  consider the antenna 
efficiency?

Alan KB7MBI
Woodinville, WA
FISTS:  5702   CC: 1885   ARS: 582
SKCC: 1988   NAQCC:  058   ARCI: 12141  


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R: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[paolo.gramigna]

 

Hi,
I found another good link for the argument:
http://www.w5sf.com/article9.html

73,
IK4YNG Paolo

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[Elecraft] Power off at Elecraft HQ - Power off at Elecraft - Aptos

[Don Rasmussen]

Welcome back to the world of modern conveniences!

Did Lisa Jones miss a day without her curling iron and
blow dryer? Knowing her she was still working with a
pen in one hand, flashlight in the other. ;-)

The XYL just showed me a helicopter photo of that town
in Nevada that lost the leveee. Thanks for having the
good sense to build on higher ground. ;-)

--

[Elecraft] Power off at Elecraft HQ - Power off at
Elecraft - Aptos
Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft eric at elecraft.com 
Sun Jan 6 00:50:09 EST 2008 
=
Yes, it returned very late last night. :-) 73, Eric 
WA6HHQ _..._

Don Ehrlich wrote:
> Anybody know if  power is back on at the big-E?


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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[N2EY]

In a message dated 1/5/08 11:40:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> We simply do not have conductors that will handle RF with anything like the
> efficiency they will handle DC or low frequency AC. That's because all the
> RF current 'crowds' onto the very surface of a conductor. 
> 
> As we make an antenna physically smaller, the impedance drops. As the
> impedance drops, the RF currents and resistive losses go up. Even silver or
> gold - the best electrical conductors known - are not nearly good enough for
> the sorts of currents we see in small antennas. 
> 
> As an antenna is made shorter the resistive losses far exceed any other
> losses in the system. Of course those resistive losses occur in the matching
> network too. It's not just the antenna itself that converts RF into heat
> better than it makes electromagnetic waves. 

This is so well said that it deserves repeating.

In *theory*, a dipole 1.3 feet long can be made to radiate 80 meter RF almost 
the same as one 130 feet long. But in *practice*, the resistive losses of 
real-world practical antenna systems of those sizes are very different.  

And what we're looking for are practical, real-world antennas that we can put 
up in the limited space we have available.

---

Another factor to remember is that under good conditions we can do pretty 
incredible stuff with very low power.100 watts into an antenna system that has 
1% 
efficiency will radiate the same amount of RF as 1 watt into an antenna 
system with 100% efficiency. So even a poor antenna will sometimes let you make 
a 
QSO.

---

It seems to me that one of the biggest stumbling blocks we amateurs have with 
antennas is seeing and understanding the entire antenna *system* - which 
includes the antenna itself, its surroundings, the feedline, matching networks, 
etc. We have to consider all of them together. And like the links of a chain, 
the weakest one will be the problem. A great antenna in poor surroundings will 
work poorly, etc.

73 de Jim, N2EY


**
Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in 
shape.
 
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[Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[Jim's mail]

This is a test message and a question.  If the message gets through, that 
part works fine.  Now for the question:  My current QTH is a city lot that 
has several large oak trees in the back yard.  The trees have been there 
over 30 or 40 years and I will not be able to do much more than trim a very 
few limbs that get too close to other structures.  My HF antenna at present 
is an inverted V configuration hung from one of the trees at about 40 feet 
off the ground (also the yard is not level, there are several slopes) and 
the end points tied to another tree on one side of the yard and a fence on 
the other side.  The antenna was cut for 40 meters.  The feed line is an 
unknown length of 300 ohm television twin lead coming into the attic then 
through a closet to the radio.  My current radio (not an Elecraft) has an 
MFJ-941B tuner between the antenna connection and the actual feed line.


Would the K2 with an internal ATU be able to work with this antenna/feed 
line combination?


Thank you,
Jim  KD5VXH 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[Brendan Minish]

On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 15:27 -0600, Jim's mail wrote:

> Would the K2 with an internal ATU be able to work with this antenna/feed 
> line combination?

Probably, but you will need a balun. ELecraft make one that is
switchable 1:1 / 4:1 
I use an MFJ switchable balun and find I can match pretty much anything
in one position or the other.  

73
Brendan EI6IZ

-- 
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to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly
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[Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[Kevin Schmidt]

Dear Ron,

My experience is that all radios depreciate in constant dollars with time.
So another way of "storage", that is almost certainly more economical,
would be to sell your K2. That money plus the interest earned will likely
buy a better rig, for example a used K3, when and if you decide to get
back on the air.

73 Kevin w9cf

>I'm going to put everything in storage for a few years until solar
>activity picks up. Pretty much everything is boxed up and stored in
>the garage already. But I'm curious about the best way to store my K2
>and a few other electronic items for the long term. I thinking a big
>zip-lock bag, a little desiccant and a store in the house to minimize
>temp/humidity cycling.
>
>Ideas for long-term storage only please--I have no interest or desire
>to spend money on station improvements to make operating more
>successful/interesting.
>-- 
>73, Rod Ai7NN 
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It's very hard to say, Jim, because that sort of antenna will show a huge
range of possible impedance values at the transmitter depending upon the
feeder length. An unmatched feeder like that acts as an impedance
transformer based on its length. That's why you so often see comments like
"change the feeder length if the tuner can't find a match". (I suspect most
people who suggest that never tried to figure out what to do with excess
balanced line, even "twinlead"!) 

Another approach many use is to add a 4:1 balun at the rig. Or switch a
balun between 1:1 and 4:1 (Elecraft makes such a balun whose ratio can be
changed by throwing a switch). That often does the job because it does the
same thing as changing the length of the feeder: the impedance the rig sees
is different and, hopefully, within in the tuning range of the ATU. 

Your MFJ tuner has a much wider matching range than just about any other
design. That's the good side of a T-network tuner. (The negative side is
that it can be very lossy if not adjusted according to the instructions or
if it must match a very low impedance. With your 40 meter antenna, the
impedance isn't likely to be low enough to be an issue on any band from 3.5
MHz up. ) 

Elecraft uses an L-network which is also very, very good, and very low loss
but it doesn't replicate the whole range of your T-match network. So it's
possible it may not provide a good match on ALL bands without providing a
balun or changing the length of the feeder. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

This is a test message and a question.  If the message gets through, that 
part works fine.  Now for the question:  My current QTH is a city lot that 
has several large oak trees in the back yard.  The trees have been there 
over 30 or 40 years and I will not be able to do much more than trim a very 
few limbs that get too close to other structures.  My HF antenna at present 
is an inverted V configuration hung from one of the trees at about 40 feet 
off the ground (also the yard is not level, there are several slopes) and 
the end points tied to another tree on one side of the yard and a fence on 
the other side.  The antenna was cut for 40 meters.  The feed line is an 
unknown length of 300 ohm television twin lead coming into the attic then 
through a closet to the radio.  My current radio (not an Elecraft) has an 
MFJ-941B tuner between the antenna connection and the actual feed line.

Would the K2 with an internal ATU be able to work with this antenna/feed 
line combination?

Thank you,
Jim  KD5VXH 

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[Elecraft] K2 CW audio equalization

[Joseph Trombino Jr]

I recall there being a way to equalize the K2 audio response between NORMAL 
and REVERSE in the CW mode but can't for the life of me remember what the 
tuning procedure was.


Can some kind soul point me in the right direction to the above procedure???

   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore I am 


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Re: [Elecraft] microkeyer and K2

[rkayakr]

Steve

For my K2, the MicroHam Audio Switching is set as:

Follow Radio Mode
CW: AAA
Voice: ABA
Digital: CCC

with "Allow custom settings" checked

Bob
  KD8CGH
KX1, K2, K3
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/microkeyer-and-K2-tp14646978p14654310.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 CAT commands

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I've just been reading an previous posting by KD8CGH, in which he posts

here is a short CAT command that I attached to a button I labeled "tuner"
PC020;
SWH16;
@ 1000;
SWH16;

The K3 programmers manual says about @
"! and @ * (Direct Main/Auxiliary DSP control)
Note: These commands are implemented, but full documentation is not yet
available."

It appears @ 1000; waits a period of time, possible 1000mS

Can anyone enlighten me please?

-- 
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about human nature that the only form of life we have created so far is
purely destructive. We've created life in our own image.
- Stephen Hawking


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RE: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[John Magliacane]

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> We simply do not have conductors that will handle RF with
> anything like the efficiency they will handle DC or low frequency
> AC. That's because all the RF current 'crowds' onto the very
> surface of a conductor.

When Skin Effect losses become an issue in RF conductors and
inductors, Litz wire is typically used.  I see no reason why a
similar approach cannot be used (one of using multiple conductors
tied in parallel with each insulated from one another).

An "El Cheapo" approach might be to use multi-conductor cable
instead of a single, fat conductor to minimize Skin Effect losses.

Cookie, K5EWJ wrote:

> The capacitive reactance will require 397 microhenrys
> to cancel out which in turn will require a coil 4
> inches in diameter and about 24 inches long with 160
> turns (about 168 feet of wire).  Then you would need
> an 8333/1 balun transformer with its associated wire
> resistance.

Capacitance hats can be used to reduce the amount of
inductive loading required to establish resonance.

I agree that the impedance transformations appear astronomical,
but if performed in manageable steps (instead of a single
transformation), efficiency might be improved, and the process
might not seem so formidable or lossy.

David Woolley wrote:

> For antennas in practical locations, at least one other thing
> will happen:
>
> d) The antenna will convert part of the AC power into (near field)
> electromagnetic energy which will induce currents in the ground,
> building structure, wiring, water and gas pipes, etc.  Much of that
> energy will be converted to heat after it has lost, although some
> will be re-radiated (I believe, in extreme cases, if the current
> is induced in something large enough and resonant, the re-radiator
> can become the actual antenna and the antenna act as a feed device,
> but, normally, for low, and indoor antennas, this is where most of
> the energy turns to heat).

I fully agree that the surrounding environment is part of the antenna
SYSTEM, and should be taken into consideration regardless of whether
the antenna is half-wave or an electrically shortened version of a
half-wave antenna.

> This reflection abstraction causes a lot of confusion.  It is
> possibly easier to see it as simply a bad match between the
> transmitter source impedance (which is usually rather different
> from the optimum load impedance) and the antenna impedance,
> causing most of the DC input to the transmitter to end up as
> heat in the output devices.

Provided measures to re-reflect the energy back to the antenna in
phase with the incident power aren't made.  (And the device that
does this very nicely is the antenna tuner.)

Actually, I mentioned reflected power to dispell the untrue but
widely held belief that reflected power "cancels" forward power
on a transmission line.  Forward and reflected power can peacefully
co-exist on a transmission line without interaction.  If this were
not true, repeater systems using duplexed antenna systems would
be impossible.

> As already pointed out, skin effect means that this is not true.
> People experimenting with small magnetic loops have to use large
> copper pipes to keep ohmic losses manageable.

The problem (in my mind) is that the copper pipe is really only a
single conductor, rather than the more efficient approach taken by
Litz wire where multiple conductors, each a skin depth in diameter,
are operated in parallel.

> For example, the KAT2 has a 10:1 SWR matching specification, but
> matching the antenna discussed here, at infinite height above the
> ground, needs a 250:1 range, or more.  They can also have power
> losses.

Agreed.  The impedance transformation has to (in my opinion) be
step-by-step process -- the same as a modern receiver design.
(In a receiver, we don't try to get all our gain and selectivity
in a single stage.  By the same token, we shouldn't try to make
a large impedance transformation in a single "stage", either.)

(Just my opinion...)

> > The penalties for using physically shortened antennas are:
> >
> > (a) Decreased operating bandwidth
>
> I'm not sure that is inevitably true.  My reference for normal mode
> helices included them in the section on broadband antennas.

I believe the Normal Mode Helix, as is used in HI-VHF television
broadcasting, is a travelling wave antenna, rather than a
resonant standing wave antenna, such as a dipole.

The bandwidth decreases in shortened resonant antennas as a
result of the antenna's increased Q.  The Q rises because the
RF energy must oscillate back and forth between feedpoint and
endpoint of the dipole many more times than it does in a
full-sized antenna before all the energy applied to the antenna
is finally radiated into space.

In travelling wave (non-resonant) antennas (rhombics, Beverages),
the RF energy travels down the length of the antenna just once.
Therefore, they must be very long in terms of wavelength to radiate
all the energy into space on the first shot.

Inc

Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[David Cutter]

I've used several strands of enamelled copper wire twisted together.  I 
usually twist 3 sets of 3 of quite thin wire, whatever is on hand; 0.2 to 
0.45mm dia is easy to use; after twisting I give the group a good pull the 
stretch and stiffen it a bit but it still remains very flexible indeed and 
does not have a memory effect.  I tie the wires to a fence post then fit the 
other ends into an electric hand drill 25m, it's surprising how much 
twisting is needed. You must not let the wires touch the ground.   It is 
also very slippery and does not cling to other wires which I find a great 
advantage when manipulating multi-wire structures.  I call it "multi twist".


David
G3UNA


An "El Cheapo" approach might be to use multi-conductor cable
instead of a single, fat conductor to minimize Skin Effect losses.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CAT commands

[rkayakr]

 "tuner"
PC020; - set power
SWH16; - TUNE
@ 1000; - wait 1000 ms
SWH16; - TUNE

I have since bumped the wait up up to 2000 ms which is usually long enough
for my memory based autotuner to find a good match. I found the reference
for the "@" command in the doc for Ham Radio Deluxe.

Bob
  KD8CGh





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-
73 de M0XDF FISTS #12575 
Waiting for Elecraft K3


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-CAT-commands-tp14654567p14655180.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[Bob Cunnings]

The capacitance between individual strands in Litz wire limits it's
usefulness above 1 MHz or so. W8JI has an interesting discussion of
skin effect at:

http://www.w8ji.com/skindepth.htm

Bob NW8L

On Jan 6, 2008 3:54 PM, David Cutter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've used several strands of enamelled copper wire twisted together.  I
> usually twist 3 sets of 3 of quite thin wire, whatever is on hand; 0.2 to
> 0.45mm dia is easy to use; after twisting I give the group a good pull the
> stretch and stiffen it a bit but it still remains very flexible indeed and
> does not have a memory effect.  I tie the wires to a fence post then fit the
> other ends into an electric hand drill 25m, it's surprising how much
> twisting is needed. You must not let the wires touch the ground.   It is
> also very slippery and does not cling to other wires which I find a great
> advantage when manipulating multi-wire structures.  I call it "multi twist".
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
> > An "El Cheapo" approach might be to use multi-conductor cable
> > instead of a single, fat conductor to minimize Skin Effect losses.
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[David Cutter]

I made this system primarily for its mechanical properties.  I will make 
some measurements one fine day


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Cunnings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency



The capacitance between individual strands in Litz wire limits it's
usefulness above 1 MHz or so. W8JI has an interesting discussion of
skin effect at:

http://www.w8ji.com/skindepth.htm

Bob NW8L

On Jan 6, 2008 3:54 PM, David Cutter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I've used several strands of enamelled copper wire twisted together.  I
usually twist 3 sets of 3 of quite thin wire, whatever is on hand; 0.2 to
0.45mm dia is easy to use; after twisting I give the group a good pull 
the
stretch and stiffen it a bit but it still remains very flexible indeed 
and
does not have a memory effect.  I tie the wires to a fence post then fit 
the

other ends into an electric hand drill 25m, it's surprising how much
twisting is needed. You must not let the wires touch the ground.   It is
also very slippery and does not cling to other wires which I find a great
advantage when manipulating multi-wire structures.  I call it "multi 
twist".


David
G3UNA

> An "El Cheapo" approach might be to use multi-conductor cable
> instead of a single, fat conductor to minimize Skin Effect losses.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW audio equalization

[Don Wilhelm]

Joe,

I believe that would have to be done with the IF filter alignment CAL 
FIL.  With Spectrogram or similar, you can observe not only the center 
of the passband, but you can compare the filter slopes.  There will be 
some difference between the upper and lower slopes, especially at wider 
bandwidth settings, but you should be able to achieve an acceptable 
compromise.


73,
Don W3FPR

Joseph Trombino Jr wrote:
I recall there being a way to equalize the K2 audio response between 
NORMAL and REVERSE in the CW mode but can't for the life of me 
remember what the tuning procedure was.


Can some kind soul point me in the right direction to the above 
procedure???


   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore I am


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[David Wilburn]

I have had very good luck tuning various antennas with my
KAT-100/K2/100.  In most instances, I have used a 4:1 balun.
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 15:27 -0600, Jim's mail wrote:
> This is a test message and a question.  If the message gets through, that 
> part works fine.  Now for the question:  My current QTH is a city lot that 
> has several large oak trees in the back yard.  The trees have been there 
> over 30 or 40 years and I will not be able to do much more than trim a very 
> few limbs that get too close to other structures.  My HF antenna at present 
> is an inverted V configuration hung from one of the trees at about 40 feet 
> off the ground (also the yard is not level, there are several slopes) and 
> the end points tied to another tree on one side of the yard and a fence on 
> the other side.  The antenna was cut for 40 meters.  The feed line is an 
> unknown length of 300 ohm television twin lead coming into the attic then 
> through a closet to the radio.  My current radio (not an Elecraft) has an 
> MFJ-941B tuner between the antenna connection and the actual feed line.
> 
> Would the K2 with an internal ATU be able to work with this antenna/feed 
> line combination?
> 
> Thank you,
> Jim  KD5VXH 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[David Wilburn]

A used K3?  Who has ever heard of such a thing?  ;)
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 14:49 -0700, Kevin Schmidt wrote:
> Dear Ron,
> 
> My experience is that all radios depreciate in constant dollars with time.
> So another way of "storage", that is almost certainly more economical,
> would be to sell your K2. That money plus the interest earned will likely
> buy a better rig, for example a used K3, when and if you decide to get
> back on the air.
> 
> 73 Kevin w9cf
> 
> >I'm going to put everything in storage for a few years until solar
> >activity picks up. Pretty much everything is boxed up and stored in
> >the garage already. But I'm curious about the best way to store my K2
> >and a few other electronic items for the long term. I thinking a big
> >zip-lock bag, a little desiccant and a store in the house to minimize
> >temp/humidity cycling.
> >
> >Ideas for long-term storage only please--I have no interest or desire
> >to spend money on station improvements to make operating more
> >successful/interesting.
> >-- 
> >73, Rod Ai7NN 
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[Elecraft] LSU-OSU BCS Championship game Operating Event

[n5ib]

Don't forget...Details at

ARRL posted to the special events pages, 


QRZ Announcements section. 


K5LSU will also be on for the Spartan Sprint.

73
Jim N5IB
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[Thom LaCosta]

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008, David Wilburn wrote:


A used K3?  Who has ever heard of such a thing?  ;)


Well, sooner or later the ARRL will buy one, review it and then auction it off.

Thom,EIEIO
Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[John W2XS]

I use the KAT2 and BL2 with 2 different antennas.  One is the Cobra Ultralite
(www.k1jek.com) and the other is a 40 meter inverted Vee fed with 300-ohm
twinlead.  The tuner/balun has been able to match the first antenna on 160
to 10 and the second antenna on 40 to 10 (and even 80 but I never use it
there).  The balun has always stayed in the 4 to 1 position. I try to keep
the piece of coax from the balun to the rig as short as possible, and
sometimes use the male-to-male BNC adaptor that Elecraft sells.

72,

John W2XS

K2, KX1, and K3 (due in April)
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K2-and-wire-antenna-tp14654003p14656238.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[WILLIS COOKE]

Bill, let me first state that operating QRP makes a
good antenna much more a requirement than operating
QRO.  Of course, the antenna does not need to handle
as much power, so some of the components can be
lighter weight.  For someone to give you a really good
suggestion we need to know a few things:

1.  Do you plan to operate mobil in motion?

2.  How long do you stay in one place?

3.  Do you usually park in commercial RV Parks, or on
private property?

4.  What sort of restrictions on antenna installation
do you anticipate?

5.  Are you reasonably physically fit so that you can
erect masts, etc.?

6.  Is the roof of your RV strong enough for you to be
on top of the RV to erect the antenna?

7.  Anything else that might give us clues about
problems that you may encounter?

8.  Are you thinking a K1, 10 watt K2 or just what for
a rig?

9.  What kind of operating and bands do you consider
required and what do you consider desirable?

Cookie, K5EWJ

--- bill KE5KWE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> Let me bring this down to the practical world.  My
> QTH is a 42.5 ft. Travel
> Trailer which is insulated from the ground by 6
> Rubber Tires and Air.  It
> has Metal, I presume Aluminum, siding and a Rubber
> over Wood Roof which is
> approx. 10 ft. off the ground.  My K2 is almost
> built and I will be
> operating CW exclusively QRP.  Are there any
> suggestions for either a
> commercially built antenna or a homebrew.
> (Recognizing that I am not a EE
> and have no formal electrical background!)
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bill Fogel, KE5KWE
> "On the Road in the USA"
> 
> 
> This thread started with a person trying to find an
> antenna that would work reasonably well that does
> not
> take up much space. 
> -- 
> View this message in context:
>
http://www.nabble.com/dipole-antenna-efficiency-tp14609719p14650029.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
> 
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[Elecraft] XV222 Help - No voltage at TP5

[Mark Adams, PE]

Hi Gang,

Just getting ready for the VHF SS and have my new 222 xvtr built. One  
issue. During the testing everything is good until I apply power with  
the IF rig and measure voltage between TP5 and GND while running R22  
up and down. Problem is, I get no voltage regardless of the position  
of R22.


FYI, I'm using an FT817 as an IF rig, 5W out from rig and a single RF  
cable as I have to match the setting for my other 6 transverters.


A top 5 finish hangs on getting the right answer!

Thanks es 73,
Mark K2QO/R
FN03ra
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[WILLIS COOKE]

Probably it will work.  A 50 or 75 ohm feed line would
be a better choice for this antenna.  I have had good
results over the years with feeding a dual inverted
vee, one vee cut for 75 or 80 meters and one cut for
40 meters.  It will load well on about 100 to 150 khz
of 80, all of 40, all of 15 and most of 10 meters.  It
doesn't load well on 20 and only fair on 17 and 12,
but is a pretty good antenna.  It doesn't need a tuner
at all on 80, 40, 15 and 10, but an automatic tuner
will get the other bands easily.  You will need a
separate dipole for good results on 20 meters. 
Touching a branch probably will not kill the antenna,
but may cause some noise, especially in rainy weather.

Cookie, K5EWJ

--- Jim's mail <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> This is a test message and a question.  If the
> message gets through, that 
> part works fine.  Now for the question:  My current
> QTH is a city lot that 
> has several large oak trees in the back yard.  The
> trees have been there 
> over 30 or 40 years and I will not be able to do
> much more than trim a very 
> few limbs that get too close to other structures. 
> My HF antenna at present 
> is an inverted V configuration hung from one of the
> trees at about 40 feet 
> off the ground (also the yard is not level, there
> are several slopes) and 
> the end points tied to another tree on one side of
> the yard and a fence on 
> the other side.  The antenna was cut for 40 meters. 
> The feed line is an 
> unknown length of 300 ohm television twin lead
> coming into the attic then 
> through a closet to the radio.  My current radio
> (not an Elecraft) has an 
> MFJ-941B tuner between the antenna connection and
> the actual feed line.
> 
> Would the K2 with an internal ATU be able to work
> with this antenna/feed 
> line combination?
> 
> Thank you,
> Jim  KD5VXH 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[WILLIS COOKE]

The way ARRL auctions go, it will probably auction for
about $5,000.

--- Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Sun, 6 Jan 2008, David Wilburn wrote:
> 
> > A used K3?  Who has ever heard of such a thing? 
> ;)
> 
> Well, sooner or later the ARRL will buy one, review
> it and then auction it off.
> 
> Thom,EIEIO
> Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer
> 
> www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the
> Baltimore Lexicon
> www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[Thom LaCosta]

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008, WILLIS COOKE wrote:


The way ARRL auctions go, it will probably auction for
about $5,000.


For years I've thought the black helicopters flew over Newington...maybe I can
get a tin foil hat with the ARRL Logo and my call sign.

This logoized world is confusingjust today I thought I saw a man walking 
down the street backwards...and then realized that not only was he enough of a 
dim-bulb to pay top dollar for a jacket that advertised its maker on the front, 
but the jacket also had the logo on the back.


Maybe I can offer k3 embroidered logos that can be ironed onto the adjustable 
hats with the call signs.


Branding..it's all about branding!

Thom,EIEIO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and wire antenna

[L. D. Ingram]

At 04:27 PM 1/6/2008, you wrote:

  My HF antenna at present is an inverted V configuration hung 
from one of the trees at about 40 feet off the ground (also the yard 
is not level, there are several slopes) and the end points tied to 
another tree on one side of the yard and a fence on the other 
side.  The antenna was cut for 40 meters.  The feed line is an 
unknown length of 300 ohm television twin lead coming into the attic 
then through a closet to the radio.


Would the K2 with an internal ATU be able to work with this 
antenna/feed line combination?


Thank you,
Jim  KD5VXH

JIm,

I have had very good performance from an inverted V hanging from an 
oak tree at 30 feet to the center with my K2. My inverted V is 
actually a three band unit with wires cut for 40, 30 and 20 meters 
all fed at the center with 50 ohm coax. I used an antenna analyzer to 
trim the wires, starting with the 40 meter section first, for minimum 
SWR at my operating frequencies. I had very little problem getting a 
match for each band and I did not need an antenna tuner. The 40 meter 
section can also be used for 15 meters but I found that the match was 
up near the top of the band and an antenna tuner (I use the KAT2) is 
needed to prevent the K2 from cutting back on the power due to the 
higher SWR at the lower end of the band.


Larry AG4NN

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for January 6th & 7th, 2008

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   After a snowy, cold day it was nice to hear you all on the air.  Now that it 
is officially sunspot cycle 24 things will only get better.  Hopefully my 
skills will improve as the conditions get better so I can handle the "wall of 
sound" each week when I call CQ.  Today it was a little spread out so I was 
able to work folks in groups of twos and threes.  
   It appears I should start the second net as soon as the first is over 
because forty is closing earlier.  But, the sun is also coming back so this may 
cease to occur in the not too distant future.  There were a few tough signals 
but mostly they were fine.  Now that my K2 has been upgraded to the latest 
revision it hears better.  
   Early this week I did reseat the main processor which seems to have quenched 
the keyer problem.  The main chip was the only one which had 'walked' out of 
its socket but I pressed each socketed chip anyway.  Only the main chip moved 
as I pressed; the others had become annealed over the years.  During my last 
few stints of operation there have been no untoward jumps in keyer speed.  Good!

   The lists =>

On 14055.50 kHz at 2300z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
W0JFR - John - CO - K2 - 4507QNI #15!!
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
K7TQ - Randy - ID - K2 - 213 QNI #15!!
N7KRT - Jeff - NV - K2 - 5471
KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037  QNI #80

On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
N7KRT - Jeff - NV - K2 - 5471QNI #40!!!
K4DXU - Bill - TN - K2 - 5540
K4DGW - Dave - VA - K2 - 5982
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628 
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
KE4RVT - Dwayne - GA - K2 - 2678
NK6A - Don - CA - K2 - 1217

   Hopefully the weather will improve for those of us most effected.  Some of 
you were having great days; especially AB9V in sultry Indiana.   It's hard to 
believe it is that warm in the Midwest!  I did get a few winter temperature 
readings from W0CZ and KL7CW though.  My sister just wrote me a note with a 
reported windspeed in southern Oregon of 153 mph.  I am very glad the wind was 
not that rapid here.  Only in the low 70s from what I've heard.  I would rather 
my trees stay rooted and vertical!
   Until next week stay warm and healthy,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[WILLIS COOKE]

When the K4 is released there will no doubt be some
available.  Rod may have to wait a while.

--- David Wilburn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> A used K3?  Who has ever heard of such a thing?  ;)
> -  
> 
> David Wilburn
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> K4DGW
> K2 S/N 5982
> 
> 
> On Sun, 2008-01-06 at 14:49 -0700, Kevin Schmidt
> wrote:
> > Dear Ron,
> > 
> > My experience is that all radios depreciate in
> constant dollars with time.
> > So another way of "storage", that is almost
> certainly more economical,
> > would be to sell your K2. That money plus the
> interest earned will likely
> > buy a better rig, for example a used K3, when and
> if you decide to get
> > back on the air.
> > 
> > 73 Kevin w9cf
> > 
> > >I'm going to put everything in storage for a few
> years until solar
> > >activity picks up. Pretty much everything is
> boxed up and stored in
> > >the garage already. But I'm curious about the
> best way to store my K2
> > >and a few other electronic items for the long
> term. I thinking a big
> > >zip-lock bag, a little desiccant and a store in
> the house to minimize
> > >temp/humidity cycling.
> > >
> > >Ideas for long-term storage only please--I have
> no interest or desire
> > >to spend money on station improvements to make
> operating more
> > >successful/interesting.
> > >-- 
> > >73, Rod Ai7NN 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: REPRISE: As good as it gets...for now?

[Thom LaCosta]

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008, WILLIS COOKE wrote:


When the K4 is released there will no doubt be some
available.  Rod may have to wait a while.


By then I expect that the entire population of Ellfville will have moved to 
Aptos, and the fat man in the red suit will take on a non-christmas career of

Quality Control Supervisor.

Instead of cookies and milk, children will leave notices of license issuance and 
QSL cards.


Ruldolf will have a wifi link to the Mrs. Claus.

And of course, folks will flock to make a 200 per cent downpayment to be in the 
RAB Batch (Right After Beta)


Thom,EIEIO
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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[David Woolley]

bill KE5KWE wrote:

Let me bring this down to the practical world.  My QTH is a 42.5 ft. Travel
Trailer which is insulated from the ground by 6 Rubber Tires and Air.  It


Is it connected to the mains electricity supply?  If it is, you will 
probably need to consult someone familiar with your local electrical 
codes as, at least in the UK, rules for such structures are much 
stricter than for permanent buildings. At the very least, that will 
affect if and how you provide an RF ground.


You haven't actually specified what the constraints on your antenna are. 
 Are you constrained to not having an external antenna?  Are  you 
allowed one but it has to fit within the area of the trailer.   How high 
above the trailer can you go?  Are you allowed to install ground rods 
(electrical codes apart)?


Without either an external antenna or a ground connection, you are 
probably lost.


--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
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