Re: [Elecraft] Anyone in Boston area

2010-09-26 Thread Richard S. Lindzen

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Peak hold question

2010-09-26 Thread Alan Bloom
Hi Craig,

The peak hold has an "infinite" hold time so it shows the biggest peak
since it was first enabled.  One of the items "on the list" is a
"peak-sag" mode where the peak value will not hold indefinitely but will
gradually sag down so that if strong signals go away, it will reset
eventually.

Alan N1AL


On Sat, 2010-09-25 at 17:30 -0700, Craig wrote:
> Hi 
> 
> When I run the P3 for an extended period of time of 10 to 15 minutes, it 
> seems that the Peak hold blue/cyan trace resets or freezes.
> 
>  The peak hold trace goes flatline well above the highest signal peak after a 
> long run. Is this normal behavior ? The peak hold trace might have a buffer 
> that fills up that causes the trace to freeze or reset?
> 
> I like leaving the peak hold trace running continuously since the Peak 
> correlates more closely to the S-meter's true reading. My P3 reads -80dbm for 
> a S9(-73dbm) signal input.
> 
>  I just got my  P3 so might have missed something by not reading the manual 
> properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 73
> Craig
> VK3HE
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Froze

2010-09-26 Thread Alan Bloom
Hi David,

If you haven't got it running by now, the key to recovering from this is
to first terminate the K3 Utility program and then cycle power on the K3
while making sure the P3 does not turn on.  (The easiest way to do that
is to pull the power cable on the P3.)  Then fire up K3 Utility again
and you should be able to download firmware to the K3.

There is no need to re-route any RS-232 cables.  The P3 includes a relay
that automatically bypasses it's serial ports when the power is off.

Alan N1AL


On Sat, 2010-09-25 at 15:46 -0700, David Carlson wrote:
> My K3 froze up while downloading in The K3 utility program. The LED shows 
> "MCU LD" and the red TX light is blinking under the power switch. I can not 
> turn the power off with the power switch. I have to turn off the power 
> supply. The K3 utility program can not communicate with the K3  so I can't 
> reinstall the firmware code, however the P3 utility program can connect. I 
> have tried turning off the K3 and then turning it back on holding the 
> "shift/lo" button to reset. That does not work. I did download the latest K3 
> utility program.  
> 
> Any suggestions?  Thanks 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?

2010-09-26 Thread N6JW

Thank you to each one who responded, both on and off list.

I was particularly surprised to see a message this morning from
Wayne (N6KR) himself, indicating that he would try to reproduce
the problem on his side.

To hear back directly from the chief engineer who designed your rig, just
a few hours after reporting an issue (and on a Sunday morning at that!) . .
.
well, this is what makes Elecraft a very special company indeed!!

One further note: I discovered while "running" later today, that the 
problem will also occur after using the paddle to send a call sign live, 
and then pressing a memory to send the rest of the exchange.  The 
significant thing is that the carrier does not drop out between the two.
So, the problem is routinely reproducible, either by 'chaining' memories, 
or by sending with the paddle followed immediately (without drop of carrier) 
with a memory.

I will try to keep the list informed as to what develops on this front.

Thanks,

73

John
N6JW
K1, K2, K3 & P3



N6JW wrote:
> 
> Briefly stated, here is the problem: While in FSK D data mode, 
> if one is sending a "chained" stored message, upon returning to 
> receive, the audio frequency is "offset" by (I believe) the selected 
> Mark pitch frequency (e.g. 915hz or 1275 hz).  The 'offset' remains, 
> but some commands can reset things to normal.
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] Anyone in Boston area

2010-09-26 Thread Richard S. Lindzen
Is there anyone in the Boston area using HRD and DM780 with Signalink 
and the K3?  I'm having trouble setting this up, but I'm pretty sure 
that I'm doing something wrong.

Dick, WO1I, K3 #911

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode use in RTTY contest

2010-09-26 Thread N6JW

Thanks for the comments, both on and off list!

Someone pointed out that I had failed to mention the value of using the Dual
Passband
Filter [Dual PB; Hold Xfil button].  Yes!  I use it all the time.  In fact
it comes up as my
default when I switch to RTTY.  It is most helpful.

Also some folk commented about the fact that in recent firmware RTTY
defaults to 75 Baud.
This appears to be true.  But once you change it back to 45 Baud (per band),
it will stay 
that way until changed.  If you cannot get clean copy on a properly tuned
strong signal, you 
probably have the baud rate incorrectly set. [Data MD]

Thanks again, and hope my notes were helpful to some.

Regards,

73

John, N6JW


N6JW wrote:
> 
> First: the K3's FSK D mode (self-contained RTTY) is NOT just a novelty! 
> It is a 
> perfectly capable performer, particularly in a situation like the CQ WW
> RTTY contest 
> taking place over this weekend.  I found my new P3 made working this
> contest 
> without software a breeze.  What follows below is a detailed
> "how-to-do-it" (with
> or without the P3) for the uninitiated, from someone who dabbles casually
> in a 
> contest or two, from time to time.  It is quite simple.  But be warned, it
> is LONG.
> 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-FSK-D-Mode-use-in-RTTY-contest-tp5571564p5573587.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for September 26th & 27th, 2010

2010-09-26 Thread Kevin
Good Evening,
The nets went well.  A couple new folks and a couple I have not heard  
 from in a while; one with a new call.  Twenty meters had some QRN on it  
which is uncharacteristic.  Forty had more but then that is normal.  Only  
a little QSB on both nets so the sun is helping more than harming things  
though the RTTY contest may have improved propagation just a little ;)
Weather reports were for mostly fall-like conditions even though the  
Coloradans were describing quite a warm day.  Here I am fluctuating  
between rain and sun; it all depends upon where the stream from the  
Pacific is aimed.  A little further north and it is sunny and warm.  A  
little further south and it is sunny and cold.  In between it is rainy and  
cold.  In any case the next week will be dry so I will be loading and  
unloading my F250 as many times as possible.  Four wheel low is the order  
of the day.

On to the lists =>

   On 14050 kHz at 2200z:
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
WA3MIX - Lou - PA - K3 - 4290
WB5BKL - Nick - TX - K3 - 231
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
W4ATK - Jim - AL - K2 - 4028
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
NU0T - Karl - IA - K2 - 4227

   On 7044 kHz at z:
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
AC6JA - Mike - CA - K3 - 3215

I hope the sun stays active so we can experience ever better conditions  
as the autumn season progresses into winter.  I'll do some antenna work  
before the rains become incessant so I am ready for the worst of it.  I  
may replace one and now that there is more open space I can plan a loop  
which will have predictable break points for when the portable spar poles  
drive through the property.  If only I lived on the fifteen acre side.   
But then I would have a demolished house from all the fallen timber.   
Maybe I should build a nice log cabin radio shack over there so I can get  
away from it all :)
Until next week stay well,
   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS   (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

-

First net report written and sent from my Coho account.

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[Elecraft] Just making sure

2010-09-26 Thread Kevin
Test

My previous email connections to the Elecraft Reflector were complicated.   
I am in the process of simplifying things just a bit.  I had one  
subscription for outgoing mail and another for incoming mail.  Yes, it was  
necessary.  Now that is no longer the case.

Just think of Tevya with his staircases.  I even had one going nowhere at  
all :)
Kevin.


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[Elecraft] testing

2010-09-26 Thread Kevin
Just a test of the connection.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Heat On Digital Modes

2010-09-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
  John,

Rather than changing the SSB filters for digital modes, activate the 
RTTY filter set in the secondary menu.  That gives you a set of filters 
(just like the SSB set but with the important difference that the SSBC 
menu parameter is independent - always set to 1:1 for digital modes).

I set the RTTY FL1 filter the same as the SSB OP1 for use with a wide 
waterfall display, but I set the other 3 to widths of 1.00, 0.70 and 
0.40 each centered at 1000 Hz to be able to deal with QRM if the need be 
- just tune the desired signal in (with the VFO) to about 1000 Hz on the 
waterfall display and switch to the more narrow filters.  With PSK the 
narrow filters are seldom necessary, the for RTTY it is often needed - 
set the application's mark frequency to 915 Hz and you should be good.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2010 9:53 PM, Jon Perelstein wrote:
> Don,
>
> Again, thanks for quick reply.
>
> Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.  That's okay, I was going to 
> open
> it up anyway to adjust the SSB filters to get narrow filtering for use in
> digital modes.
>
> Jon
> KB1QBZ
>
>
>
> 
> From: Don Wilhelm
> To: Jon Perelstein
> Cc: elecraft reflector
> Sent: Sun, September 26, 2010 7:12:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2:  Heat On Digital Modes
>
> Jon,
>
> Your quick tests are sufficient to negate my initial suspicion.
>
> I would say your next step is to re-do the KPA100 bias adjustment.  If you
> have the bias set too high, the PA transistors will heat more than normal.
>
> Meter the current into the KPA100 - put the K2 into CW test (hold the VOX
> button) and make sure the "C" indicator in the display is blinking - 
> connect
> a dummy load to the KPA100 'just in case'.  Set power to greater than 11
> watts.  The current draw will be in the vicinity of 500 ma.  Whatever your
> external ammeter says, add 400 ma to that - this is your target value.
> The hold TUNE, and look at the ammeter -  If it is a digital meter, wait
> until the 2nd reading (blink) because the first value shown may be too low
> due to the relative timing of the meter vs the time you pushed the TUNE
> button.
> The current will go up the longer you remain in TUNE, so obtain the 
> reading
> and exit tune - adjust the KPA100 bias up or down a bit and try again.  
> Once
> you have hit your target value, you are done - be sure to remove the 
> ammeter
> from the power line.
>
> While you have the shield off the KPA100, you may want to check the 
> balance
> on the wattmeter (C1 adjustment) and the power calibration with reference 
> to
> a wattmeter that you are willing to trust.
>
> You should be ale to operate the KPA100 at 35 watts continuously without 
> it
> getting too hot to touch - yes it will get quite warm, but not too hot to
> touch unless you have more sensitive fingers than average.  RTTY can be
> considered continuous, PSK31 should be OK up to 50 watts since the PSK 
> idle
> has a shorter duty cycle.
>
> If the bias and wattmeter are correct, and you still feel it is getting
> warmer than you would like, you might want to try a supplemental fan - 
> find
> one from a defunct computer, and run it with a resistor in series to slow 
> it
> down so the noise does not irritate.  It can be placed on top of the heat
> sink, moving air away and will be quite effective.  See Tom Hammond's
> website www.n0ss.net for his implementation.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/26/2010 6:49 PM, Jon Perelstein wrote:
> Don
>>
>> Thanks for the quick reply.  Fortunately, it appears that   
>> uncontrolled
>> power output is not the problem.
>>
>>
>> And yes, it is a K2/100.
>>
>>
>> I connected the rig to an MFJ-941E Versatuner II and   connected the
>> Versatuner to my antenna.  I tuned to a 1.1:1   SWR using the 
>> Versatuner
>> and then measured forward power on CW   key down at various power
>> settings.  The forward power   transitioned smoothly from just under 
>> 20
>> watts with the rig   set to 20 watts to just over 90 watts with the 
>> rig
>> set to 100   watts.  I probably need to do some calibration, but it
>> appears   that the power control is working.
>>
>>
>> I also tried it with PSK and Olivia transmissions and the   
>> Versatuner
>> was showing around 25 watts when I had 25 watts set   on the K2's 
>> power
>> control.  I upped the K2s power control to   40 watts and saw an
>> increase in forward power on the   Versatuner to about 35 watts or 
>> so.
>>
>>
>> I can get my hands on a real wattmeter in the next few days   if you
>> think it necessary, but these tests would imply that I   am not
>> experiencing uncontrolled power.
>>
>>
>> Jon
>> KB1QBZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Heat On Digital Modes

2010-09-26 Thread Jon Perelstein
Don,

Again, thanks for quick reply.

Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.  That's okay, I was going to open 
it up anyway to adjust the SSB filters to get narrow filtering for use in 
digital modes.

Jon
KB1QBZ




From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Jon Perelstein 
Cc: elecraft reflector 
Sent: Sun, September 26, 2010 7:12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2:  Heat On Digital Modes

Jon,

Your quick tests are sufficient to negate my initial suspicion.

I would say your next step is to re-do the KPA100 bias adjustment.  If you 
have the bias set too high, the PA transistors will heat more than normal.

Meter the current into the KPA100 - put the K2 into CW test (hold the VOX 
button) and make sure the "C" indicator in the display is blinking - 
connect 
a dummy load to the KPA100 'just in case'.  Set power to greater than 11 
watts.  The current draw will be in the vicinity of 500 ma.  Whatever your 
external ammeter says, add 400 ma to that - this is your target value.
The hold TUNE, and look at the ammeter -  If it is a digital meter, wait 
until the 2nd reading (blink) because the first value shown may be too low 
due to the relative timing of the meter vs the time you pushed the TUNE 
button.
The current will go up the longer you remain in TUNE, so obtain the reading 
and exit tune - adjust the KPA100 bias up or down a bit and try again.  
Once 
you have hit your target value, you are done - be sure to remove the 
ammeter 
from the power line.

While you have the shield off the KPA100, you may want to check the balance 
on the wattmeter (C1 adjustment) and the power calibration with reference 
to 
a wattmeter that you are willing to trust.

You should be ale to operate the KPA100 at 35 watts continuously without it 
getting too hot to touch - yes it will get quite warm, but not too hot to 
touch unless you have more sensitive fingers than average.  RTTY can be 
considered continuous, PSK31 should be OK up to 50 watts since the PSK idle 
has a shorter duty cycle.

If the bias and wattmeter are correct, and you still feel it is getting 
warmer than you would like, you might want to try a supplemental fan - find 
one from a defunct computer, and run it with a resistor in series to slow 
it 
down so the noise does not irritate.  It can be placed on top of the heat 
sink, moving air away and will be quite effective.  See Tom Hammond's 
website www.n0ss.net for his implementation.

73,
Don W3FPR 

On 9/26/2010 6:49 PM, Jon Perelstein wrote: 
Don
>
>
>Thanks for the quick reply.  Fortunately, it appears that   
>uncontrolled 
>power output is not the problem.
>
>
>And yes, it is a K2/100.
>
>
>I connected the rig to an MFJ-941E Versatuner II and   connected the 
>Versatuner to my antenna.  I tuned to a 1.1:1   SWR using the 
>Versatuner 
>and then measured forward power on CW   key down at various power 
>settings.  The forward power   transitioned smoothly from just under 
>20 
>watts with the rig   set to 20 watts to just over 90 watts with the 
>rig 
>set to 100   watts.  I probably need to do some calibration, but it 
>appears   that the power control is working.  
>
>
>I also tried it with PSK and Olivia transmissions and the   Versatuner 
>was showing around 25 watts when I had 25 watts set   on the K2's 
>power 
>control.  I upped the K2s power control to   40 watts and saw an 
>increase in forward power on the   Versatuner to about 35 watts or so.
>
>
>I can get my hands on a real wattmeter in the next few days   if you 
>think it necessary, but these tests would imply that I   am not 
>experiencing uncontrolled power.
>
>
>Jon
>KB1QBZ
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?

2010-09-26 Thread Tommy Alderman
During the CQ WW RTTY contest, I had a frequency jump occur twice on my K3
(s/n 4521). I was using N1MM Logger and operating around 14.090, but
suddenly my frequency jumped (while not transmitting) down to 14.003. I was
running my amp at about 1300w; it could possibly have been RFI but I
seriously doubt it as I don't have RFI with this setup or any previous
setup. The only way I quickly noticed it was the SWR indicator on my Alpha
amp started blinking at me!

73,
Tom - W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ferch
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 8:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?

I can confirm - I observed the same thing while setting up the radio for 
the contest on Friday and making a test QSO using the radio's memory 
buttons. I had the LP-PAN and PowerSDR running, but no radio control 
software. I called someone using the memory buttons by pressing M1 
twice, and found the receiver was suddenly listening somewhere else. I 
was able to recover quickly enough to complete the QSO. I chalked the 
whole thing up to having unwittingly bumped a button or knob somewhere, 
but in hindsight I can see that in as many details as I can remember, 
which is nowhere near the level of detail in John's description, it did 
appear to be exactly the same as John is reporting.

73,
Rich VE3KI
K3 #1595, F/W 4.12


N6JW wrote:

> I think I may have discovered a (rare) bug in the firmware,
> that has been 'bugging' me for a long time!  If I am right, I believe this
> issue could have been there from the beginning.  I have K3 #936 and I
> noticed the problem early on (but had no idea what was happening).
> I would very much appreciate it if others could check it out and perhaps
> confirm what I am experiencing; thus ruling out the likelihood that it is
> unique to my rig/situation.

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 NATIVE rtty AND N1MM LOGGER

2010-09-26 Thread Richard Ferch
Eric,

First, you cannot use PSK D for PSK31 with a computer unless you are 
using the K3 Utility. All PSK31 software that I know of, other than the 
K3 Utility, works by creating the PSK signal in a sound card and sending 
that to the radio. In PSK D the radio does not accept audio input. It 
can accept ASCII text input through the computer interface, but apart 
from the K3 Utility, as far as I know there is no other software that 
uses this method. To send PSK31 from a computer using standard PSK 
software, put the radio into DATA A mode, which accepts audio input from 
a sound card.

Second, to use CW input for either FSK D or PSK D, you have to use a 
paddle connected to the K3's internal CW keyer. The radio does not 
accept CW from the key jack for this purpose, and therefore you cannot 
an external keyer or CW software.

In FSK D, the way software such as MMTTY keys the radio is by commanding 
a serial port to key the TxD line with the Baudot code at the chosen 
speed. This line must be connected to pin 1 of the ACC connector through 
a keying circuit.

In AFSK A and DATA A, an audio signal is fed from the computer's sound 
card to the K3's LINE IN jack.

Third, while N1MM Logger does not support PSK D, it does support the 
other three data modes. It calls FSK D "RTTY", AFSK A "AFSK", and DATA A 
"PSK". Open the N1MM Logger's Configurer and select the Mode Control 
tab. On the right side of the window is a pane for "Mode sent to radio". 
Beside RTTY, select RTTY if you want to use FSK D, or AFSK if you want 
to use AFSK A. When the Logger is placed in RTTY mode (either because 
the contest is an RTTY-only contest or because you type RTTY into the 
Entry window), the radio will be put into FSK D or AFSK A depending on 
how you have set up this panel. Beside PSK, select PSK, which will set 
the data mode to DATA A whenever the program is in PSK mode. You can 
also set the mode by clicking on the mode at the top right of the 
Bandmap. Each time you click on the mode, the program will step one step 
through its list of modes.

Fourth, if the function keys in the Entry window are displaying CW 
messages, the program is in the wrong mode. Assuming you are in a 
contest module that permits digital modes, type RTTY or PSK into the 
call sign box and press Enter. The program should now select the digital 
message set. The messages should start with {TX} and end with {RX}. 
These messages will be sent to MMTTY or MMVARI or Fldigi, which in turn 
will send them to the radio in the appropriate format (audio for AFSK A 
and DATA A, on-off keying in FSK D).

73,
Rich VE3KI


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?

2010-09-26 Thread Dan Atchison
Same issue here.  Happened twice during the contest.  No known reason for 
occurrence as I had not touched the radio - except it went from TX to RX on a 
frequency a short way away.  FSK D mode.
 

 


Dan -- N3ND

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Richard Ferch 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?


I can confirm - I observed the same thing while setting up the radio for 
the contest on Friday and making a test QSO using the radio's memory 
buttons. I had the LP-PAN and PowerSDR running, but no radio control 
software. I called someone using the memory buttons by pressing M1 
twice, and found the receiver was suddenly listening somewhere else. I 
was able to recover quickly enough to complete the QSO. I chalked the 
whole thing up to having unwittingly bumped a button or knob somewhere, 
but in hindsight I can see that in as many details as I can remember, 
which is nowhere near the level of detail in John's description, it did 
appear to be exactly the same as John is reporting.

73,
Rich VE3KI
K3 #1595, F/W 4.12


N6JW wrote:

> I think I may have discovered a (rare) bug in the firmware,
> that has been 'bugging' me for a long time!  If I am right, I believe this
> issue could have been there from the beginning.  I have K3 #936 and I
> noticed the problem early on (but had no idea what was happening).
> I would very much appreciate it if others could check it out and perhaps
> confirm what I am experiencing; thus ruling out the likelihood that it is
> unique to my rig/situation.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode use in RTTY contest

2010-09-26 Thread N6JW

Hi Barry:

Thanks for your comments.  That is quite an accomplishment to hold both
those records!

Just a comment about the IM (..--) prosign used to end the RTTY idle.  It is
storable in the memories.
You can do it by using your paddle (entry should end right after sending
IM).  Of course, the timing is critical; it must be IM not "I" and then an
"M"!  Alternatively, you can use the K3 Utility to easily store CW memories
(which will also work in Data modes) and there is a special character to
store the IM prosign (the vertical line "|" --- I hope that comes out right
in the email).

That is a good suggestion for a menu entry for setting the idle-time.  But
in the meantime, IM will work.

Thanks again,

73

John
N6JW



Barry wrote:
> 
> John - found your post interesting and timely, as I played around with the
> CW to RTTY mode last night myself in the contest.  I used to operate the
> CQWW RTTY contest regularly, and still hold the USA records for SOHP and
> SOLP, after number of years.  I have a feeling I threw off some of the
> old-time regulars with my new zone and state :.)  Also, my signal is quite
> a bit weaker now, running barefoot and stealth wires.  The only issue I
> had with the CW to RTTY mode was trying to send a - (--)  As it's a
> character I never use in real CW, it was difficult to send correctly.  
> 
> Appreciate your post, especially the tip about CONFIG: VFO OFS.  That's
> one setting I'm going to use.  I didn't know it existed.  Regarding your
> follow-up post, I don't have a P3 and my K3 is new, and I had no problems. 
> The only "issue" I had was the long idle time at the end of a buffer.  I
> tried programming IM (..--) into its own buffer, but it wouldn't "take." 
> I guess it only accepts real CW characters.  I'd like to see a CONFIG
> setting for an adjustable end-idle time.
> 
> Barry W2UP
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?

2010-09-26 Thread Richard Ferch
I can confirm - I observed the same thing while setting up the radio for 
the contest on Friday and making a test QSO using the radio's memory 
buttons. I had the LP-PAN and PowerSDR running, but no radio control 
software. I called someone using the memory buttons by pressing M1 
twice, and found the receiver was suddenly listening somewhere else. I 
was able to recover quickly enough to complete the QSO. I chalked the 
whole thing up to having unwittingly bumped a button or knob somewhere, 
but in hindsight I can see that in as many details as I can remember, 
which is nowhere near the level of detail in John's description, it did 
appear to be exactly the same as John is reporting.

73,
Rich VE3KI
K3 #1595, F/W 4.12


N6JW wrote:

> I think I may have discovered a (rare) bug in the firmware,
> that has been 'bugging' me for a long time!  If I am right, I believe this
> issue could have been there from the beginning.  I have K3 #936 and I
> noticed the problem early on (but had no idea what was happening).
> I would very much appreciate it if others could check it out and perhaps
> confirm what I am experiencing; thus ruling out the likelihood that it is
> unique to my rig/situation.

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[Elecraft] Repeat

2010-09-26 Thread Dan Atchison

 Repeat after me.

"I will never again run a RTTY Contest without a P3."

 


Dan -- N3ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Heat On Digital Modes

2010-09-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Jon,

Your quick tests are sufficient to negate my initial suspicion.

I would say your next step is to re-do the KPA100 bias adjustment.  If 
you have the bias set too high, the PA transistors will heat more than 
normal.

Meter the current into the KPA100 - put the K2 into CW test (hold the 
VOX button) and make sure the "C" indicator in the display is blinking - 
connect a dummy load to the KPA100 'just in case'.  Set power to greater 
than 11 watts.  The current draw will be in the vicinity of 500 ma.  
Whatever your external ammeter says, add 400 ma to that - this is your 
target value.
The hold TUNE, and look at the ammeter -  If it is a digital meter, wait 
until the 2nd reading (blink) because the first value shown may be too 
low due to the relative timing of the meter vs the time you pushed the 
TUNE button.
The current will go up the longer you remain in TUNE, so obtain the 
reading and exit tune - adjust the KPA100 bias up or down a bit and try 
again.  Once you have hit your target value, you are done - be sure to 
remove the ammeter from the power line.

While you have the shield off the KPA100, you may want to check the 
balance on the wattmeter (C1 adjustment) and the power calibration with 
reference to a wattmeter that you are willing to trust.

You should be ale to operate the KPA100 at 35 watts continuously without 
it getting too hot to touch - yes it will get quite warm, but not too 
hot to touch unless you have more sensitive fingers than average.  RTTY 
can be considered continuous, PSK31 should be OK up to 50 watts since 
the PSK idle has a shorter duty cycle.

If the bias and wattmeter are correct, and you still feel it is getting 
warmer than you would like, you might want to try a supplemental fan - 
find one from a defunct computer, and run it with a resistor in series 
to slow it down so the noise does not irritate.  It can be placed on top 
of the heat sink, moving air away and will be quite effective.  See Tom 
Hammond's website www.n0ss.net for his implementation.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2010 6:49 PM, Jon Perelstein wrote:
> Don
>
> Thanks for the quick reply.  Fortunately, it appears that uncontrolled 
> power output is not the problem.
>
> And yes, it is a K2/100.
>
> I connected the rig to an MFJ-941E Versatuner II and connected the 
> Versatuner to my antenna.  I tuned to a 1.1:1 SWR using the Versatuner 
> and then measured forward power on CW key down at various power 
> settings.  The forward power transitioned smoothly from just under 20 
> watts with the rig set to 20 watts to just over 90 watts with the rig 
> set to 100 watts.  I probably need to do some calibration, but it 
> appears that the power control is working.
>
> I also tried it with PSK and Olivia transmissions and the Versatuner 
> was showing around 25 watts when I had 25 watts set on the K2's power 
> control.  I upped the K2s power control to 40 watts and saw an 
> increase in forward power on the Versatuner to about 35 watts or so.
>
> I can get my hands on a real wattmeter in the next few days if you 
> think it necessary, but these tests would imply that I am not 
> experiencing uncontrolled power.
>
> Jon
> KB1QBZ
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Heat On Digital Modes

2010-09-26 Thread Jon Perelstein
Don

Thanks for the quick reply.  Fortunately, it appears that uncontrolled power 
output is not the problem.

And yes, it is a K2/100.

I connected the rig to an MFJ-941E Versatuner II and connected the Versatuner 
to 
my antenna.  I tuned to a 1.1:1 SWR using the Versatuner and then measured 
forward power on CW key down at various power settings.  The forward power 
transitioned smoothly from just under 20 watts with the rig set to 20 watts to 
just over 90 watts with the rig set to 100 watts.  I probably need to do some 
calibration, but it appears that the power control is working.  

I also tried it with PSK and Olivia transmissions and the Versatuner was 
showing 
around 25 watts when I had 25 watts set on the K2's power control.  I upped the 
K2s power control to 40 watts and saw an increase in forward power on the 
Versatuner to about 35 watts or so.

I can get my hands on a real wattmeter in the next few days if you think it 
necessary, but these tests would imply that I am not experiencing uncontrolled 
power.

Jon
KB1QBZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 mounting of LC and Control Boards

2010-09-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Ian,

One set of washers is needed as a spacer - so just do it the easy way - 
when you mount the standoffs onto whichever board they are mounted to 
first, put the washers between the board and the standoff.  When you put 
the second board on the other end of the standoffs, put the lockwasher 
under the screwhead.

Now when you remove the screws from the standoffs, always remove the 
screw with the washer under the head - it is a bear to align the washer 
between the standoff and the board if the standoff is mounted at the 
other end.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2010 4:19 PM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote:
> My KAT2 errata dated 25 Feb 2010 shows the washers between the standoff and 
> the board, but the text says put between the screw heads and the board. 
> Normally I'd think it wasnt that important and the washers are just used as 
> spacers, but in case the space is tight when putting it all together which is 
> right, the text or the picture?
>
> Come to think of it, it must matter or there wouldn't be an errata to change 
> it. Is it just that the diagram hasn't been changed to match the text?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ian, G4JQT
>
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[Elecraft] K2 mounting of LC and Control Boards ‏ - found the answer I think

2010-09-26 Thread Ian Liston-Smith















I've just had another look in the archives and think I've learnt that it's not 
that important. One pair of washers above and one below. It's just a spacing 
thing...

Regards,

Ian
  
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[Elecraft] K2 mounting of LC and Control Boards

2010-09-26 Thread Ian Liston-Smith

My KAT2 errata dated 25 Feb 2010 shows the washers between the standoff and the 
board, but the text says put between the screw heads and the board. Normally 
I'd think it wasnt that important and the washers are just used as spacers, but 
in case the space is tight when putting it all together which is right, the 
text or the picture?

Come to think of it, it must matter or there wouldn't be an errata to change 
it. Is it just that the diagram hasn't been changed to match the text?

Thanks,

Ian, G4JQT

  
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[Elecraft] k3 NATIVE rtty AND N1MM LOGGER

2010-09-26 Thread ERIC MANNING
  N1MM LOGGER GOES INTO RTTY MODE WHEN I select PSK D, understandably.
However, it means that my cw messages don't work.
Neither do the N1MM digital messages work because the K3 is expecting cw 
input.

So, do I have to hand key all of my transmissions???

Help please ...

eric
VA7DZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW Sidetone

2010-09-26 Thread The Smiths

Is it also possible that you're turning off your rig by shutting off the power 
TO the rig without using the Power "off/on" button (I.E. Just turning off the 
power supply).  I belive that you have to save the settings at least ONE time 
by doing a proper shut down on the K3, and not just killing power to the rig.  
I've found settings get lost if you don't.  Just an idea.
Like a computer, you can't just "Crash" it when you're ready to stop using it.
 
> From: n...@elecraft.com
> To: ke...@lamonica.com
> Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 09:08:38 -0700
> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW Sidetone
> 
> Keith,
> 
> This shouldn't happen. I test this on every firmware release, and just 
> tested it again. Enter CW mode, then hold the SPEED/MIC/MON knob in to 
> bring up sidetone MON level, then adjust it. Tap the knob to return to 
> normal operation. Changing modes and possibly readjusting the MON 
> level for that mode should have no effect on the sidetone level.
> 
> If this isn't working, please contact k3support on Monday.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Sep 26, 2010, at 8:56 AM, Keith Lamonica wrote:
> 
> > Can the sidetone monitor level be set to a fixed level? Mine 
> > defaults
> > to 4 when I change modes and then come back to CW.
> >
> > Keith, W7DXX Remote
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with RTTY

2010-09-26 Thread Dennis KB7ST

Jeff,

I was in the same situation with native RTTY and PSK decoding with the K3. 
We camp a lot in our small RV trailer and I wanted to master the native
capability B4 hooking up a computer.  I just couldn't get the hang of tuning
PSK and RTTY, but got it down pat now.  Most of the ham band RTTY QSOs were
too short to get the hang of tuning, and I mastered the PSK tuning first. 
Here are my suggestions ~

-- change the RTTY pitch decode to 915 instead of 2125.  I found it easier
to listen with my ear, having set CW pitch to its highest of about 900 hZ. 
I was trying to find the 'audio tone sweet spot', so to speak.

-- find some strong RTTY transmissions.  The two that helped me the most
were the W1AW 3PM and 6PM Pacific data transmissions on Mon thru Fri.  If
those times are inconvenient, then on Saturdays the 'old' coastal station of
KPH has been re-licensed as KSM under the wonderful sponsorship of a group
of folks. http://radiomarine.org/ And they do RTTY transmissions long enuf
to zero in.  I'm not taking anything away from what the other folks have
said as they have been most helpful to me.  So I would start tuning up in
FSK D mode until the leftmost bars when solid and could hear the 915 pitch
tone.  Once you got it decoding on those transmitters, then you can play
with narrowing the filter BW and trying the DUAL PB.

Good luck...
Dennis

-
SN #4335 with 13, 2.8 and 400 8-pole filters and 10 watts. TCXO KBPF3 general
coverage option.  Plus the wonderful T1 tuner and two BL2 baluns.  Back on
HF after 25-year absence.
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View this message in context: 
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[Elecraft] FW: Help with RTTY

2010-09-26 Thread Tommy Alderman
Sorry Barry - this should have gone to the reflector!


-Original Message-
From: Tommy Alderman [mailto:alderm...@windstream.net] 
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 2:06 PM
To: 'Barry'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Help with RTTY

I got caught by that Friday night! Could not understand why I could not get
very many answers - the Q rate stayed below 60/hr. Then I discovered the
baud rate had defaulted to 75 baud!! Just in the nick of time because I was
about ready to move the K3 to the floor and put my IC-7700 back on the desk.
I would urge the default FSK-D be defaulted to the standard 45 baud rate as
there is only one contest (that I know of) that wants RTTY run at 100 wpm! 
The rate then improved - significantly- then John made his post about using
the P3 and all the lights came on! John's post was a tremendous help for me.

Set the FSK-D default to 45 baud -- PLEASE!

73,
Tom - W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 12:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help with RTTY


I know this is a little late for the contest, but if you're using the RTTY
decode within the K3, it defaults to 75 baud (100 WPM).  You need to change
that to decode 60 WPM, which is the standard.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 80/40 tx problem

2010-09-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Igor,

The waveshapes are normal.  They will not be anything like a sine wave 
coming out of a mixer, but the fundemental RF voltage is still present, 
so the waveform will be cleaned up by the bandpass filters and the PA 
Low Pass Filter.

Since you have excessive current draw, the first place to look is the 
Low Pass Filter on the 2 band board.  Are the capacitors correct?  Are 
the number of turns on the toroids correct?  Count the turns carefully, 
counting each turn that goes through the center of the core - a straight 
wire through a toroid is one turn, a full wrap around the core is two 
turns.  Failure to realize that fact is a common builder error.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2010 12:06 PM, Igor Lána wrote:
> Hello friends,
> I built a kit K1 80/40. Everything was no problem. All values of resistors
> and DC voltages were OK. But in chapter 9, part "Band 1 Allignment",
> transistor Q7 has been melted (2W at 80 m band).
> I changed it and after that I measured current -  0.1 W on 3.6 MHz current
> is 1.1A! On 7 MHz, is slightly better - 0.1W  is 0.4 A but the 2W is 1.3 A.
> After several attempts to find mistake, I tried to use the "Signal
> Transmitter tracing" with DRV-ground jumper. Instead of RF Probe  I used the
> old oscilloscop in multimetr mode. I performed the measurements to the point
> 15. All values looked like okay, but from the point 10, I watched the
> unstability.
> I switched oscilloscop to the measurement curve mode. And on OSC it is not
> pure sine wave. The point of MIX has been very vibrant.  ATTN is clean. I do
> not know if  the problem is on 6-7 intputs U8 or output 4.
> Please, see videos of measuring on youtube.
> ociloscop 150ns time raster: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYTOw9DWfKI
> ociloscop 50ns time raster: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mUunLQdBuU
> ociloscop-multimeter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFaKCssXsA
> In every video first part is on ATTN, second on OSC, and the third on MIX.
>
> Please, do you have some recommendations how or where to find the error?
> Can Xtal X6 defective?
>
> Thanks
> 73 Igor OK1TGI
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio I/O Daughter Board

2010-09-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Gary,

Elecraft does not recommend any fixatives on toroids in any of its kits, 
and I also strongly discourage its use.
Many fixatives will alter the inductance, and change other 
characteristics.  Additionally, toroids mounted with fixatives make 
repairs more difficult (if a toroid must be removed) and will likely 
void the warranty.

The toroids are sturdy enough to stand normal abuse in portable/mobile 
situations as well as during transport and shipping.
As testimony to that fact, consider that one K2 I built traveled several 
million miles over the US in the cab of an 18 wheeler.  No fixatives 
were used and no toroid failures ever occurred - and I worked on that 
same K2 (for another problem) only about 3 weeks ago.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2010 12:45 PM, Gary wrote:
> Elecraft must be having a good sales month if Roger bought his K3 (s/n 46xx)
> earlier this month and I just bought mine at last weekend's ARRL
> Southwestern Div Convention (s/n 47xx) and the month even isn't over yet.
> Congratulations Eric&  staff. I am just starting my assembly and will look
> for this audio board issue. I'd also like to see everything well supported
> inside because I plan to transport my K3 from time to time and don't want
> any intermittent problems. The first I found was the toroids in my KAT3 came
> bent over, especially L8. When I carefully straightened all of them I
> noticed L8 had to be lifted more than 1/8" above the others to snug up the
> last wraps of wire on it. Dale Farmer indicated that this is nothing to be
> concerned about however I'd be more comfortable if the toroids were
> supported more. Maybe a dab of silicone sealant below each? Any suggestions?
> Gary
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Heat On Digital Modes

2010-09-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Jon,

I do not believe your condition has anything to do with digital modes, 
but rather sounds like you have a power control problem - it should not 
heat up that it is too hot to touch, and not as fast as you indicate.
I assume a K2/100.  If so, please use an external wattmeter to determine 
just how much power it is really producing.  Also, see if the power 
control properly controls the power?  I am suspecting that you have some 
problem with the KPA100 wattmeter (like damaged diodes from a lightning 
surge) and it is developing full uncontrolled power output, which for 
some KPA100s can be as high as 180 watts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2010 11:42 AM, Jon Perelstein wrote:
> This is a follow-up to a post about two months ago.
>
> I'm still getting pretty high heat on my K2 when running digital modes such as
> PSK, Olivia, etc.  Per the recommendation of Don and a few others, I'm 
> adjusting
> the K2 so that my desired power output is set on the Power control (25 watts),
> and then I'm setting my input gain (using a Signalink) so that (a) I do not
> exceed that power on the display and (b) I have one bar on the ALC.
>
> Despite that, the K2 heats up rapidly.  After one or two transmissions of 2-3
> minutes each, the K2's fan will stay on high speed for all transmissions and 
> the
> top of the K2 is hot to the touch.  As it heats up, people notice drift of +/-
> 20 Hz (on 20 meters) as the rig warms up during transmit, even with the fan
> kicking in.
>
> The K2 does cool down on long receives, which indicates that the fan is having
> some impact, but obviously not enough.  For now I have aimed a desk fan at the
> K2 when operating digital and it has reduced the heat and the drift.
>
> Is all this normal for digital on the K2?  Are there things I should be 
> looking
> at that might perhaps be indicating a problem in my build?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with RTTY

2010-09-26 Thread Barry

I know this is a little late for the contest, but if you're using the RTTY
decode within the K3, it defaults to 75 baud (100 WPM).  You need to change
that to decode 60 WPM, which is the standard.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio I/O Daughter Board

2010-09-26 Thread Gary
Elecraft must be having a good sales month if Roger bought his K3 (s/n 46xx)
earlier this month and I just bought mine at last weekend's ARRL
Southwestern Div Convention (s/n 47xx) and the month even isn't over yet.
Congratulations Eric & staff. I am just starting my assembly and will look
for this audio board issue. I'd also like to see everything well supported
inside because I plan to transport my K3 from time to time and don't want
any intermittent problems. The first I found was the toroids in my KAT3 came
bent over, especially L8. When I carefully straightened all of them I
noticed L8 had to be lifted more than 1/8" above the others to snug up the
last wraps of wire on it. Dale Farmer indicated that this is nothing to be
concerned about however I'd be more comfortable if the toroids were
supported more. Maybe a dab of silicone sealant below each? Any suggestions?
Gary

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roger Gagos
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:13 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio I/O Daughter Board

I am really enjoying my new K3/100 (#4629) .  It worked perfectly on
completion from the kit earlier this month.  Today I noticed the Audio I/O
daughter board E850236 does have some vertical play in the rear panel after
mic and earphone plugs are inserted and there is additional leverage from
the plug bodies themselves.

It looks like this would be normal since I see no rear securing hardware for
the installed board.  Is that right?  The digital I/O board is, of course
secured by the RS-232 connectors to the back panel.  maybe some short
plastic sleeves around the jacks would help.

Thought I remember seeing something about this but I didn't find anything in
the reflector archives, but maybe I didn't search for the right terms.

Roger Gagos, K6EQ
Escondido, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW Sidetone

2010-09-26 Thread Wayne Burdick
Keith,

This shouldn't happen. I test this on every firmware release, and just  
tested it again. Enter CW mode, then hold the SPEED/MIC/MON knob in to  
bring up sidetone MON level, then adjust it. Tap the knob to return to  
normal operation. Changing modes and possibly readjusting the MON  
level for that mode should have no effect on the sidetone level.

If this isn't working, please contact k3support on Monday.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 26, 2010, at 8:56 AM, Keith Lamonica wrote:

>  Can the sidetone monitor level be set to a fixed level?  Mine  
> defaults
> to 4 when I change modes and then come back to CW.
>
> Keith, W7DXX Remote
>
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[Elecraft] K1 80/40 tx problem

2010-09-26 Thread Igor Lána
Hello friends,
I built a kit K1 80/40. Everything was no problem. All values of resistors 
and DC voltages were OK. But in chapter 9, part "Band 1 Allignment", 
transistor Q7 has been melted (2W at 80 m band).
I changed it and after that I measured current -  0.1 W on 3.6 MHz current 
is 1.1A! On 7 MHz, is slightly better - 0.1W  is 0.4 A but the 2W is 1.3 A.
After several attempts to find mistake, I tried to use the "Signal 
Transmitter tracing" with DRV-ground jumper. Instead of RF Probe  I used the 
old oscilloscop in multimetr mode. I performed the measurements to the point 
15. All values looked like okay, but from the point 10, I watched the 
unstability.
I switched oscilloscop to the measurement curve mode. And on OSC it is not 
pure sine wave. The point of MIX has been very vibrant.  ATTN is clean. I do 
not know if  the problem is on 6-7 intputs U8 or output 4.
Please, see videos of measuring on youtube.
ociloscop 150ns time raster: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYTOw9DWfKI
ociloscop 50ns time raster: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mUunLQdBuU
ociloscop-multimeter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFaKCssXsA
In every video first part is on ATTN, second on OSC, and the third on MIX.

Please, do you have some recommendations how or where to find the error?
Can Xtal X6 defective?

Thanks
73 Igor OK1TGI 

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[Elecraft] K3 CW Sidetone

2010-09-26 Thread Keith Lamonica
  Can the sidetone monitor level be set to a fixed level?  Mine defaults 
to 4 when I change modes and then come back to CW.

Keith, W7DXX Remote


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[Elecraft] K2: Heat On Digital Modes

2010-09-26 Thread Jon Perelstein
This is a follow-up to a post about two months ago.

I'm still getting pretty high heat on my K2 when running digital modes such as 
PSK, Olivia, etc.  Per the recommendation of Don and a few others, I'm 
adjusting 
the K2 so that my desired power output is set on the Power control (25 watts), 
and then I'm setting my input gain (using a Signalink) so that (a) I do not 
exceed that power on the display and (b) I have one bar on the ALC. 

Despite that, the K2 heats up rapidly.  After one or two transmissions of 2-3 
minutes each, the K2's fan will stay on high speed for all transmissions and 
the 
top of the K2 is hot to the touch.  As it heats up, people notice drift of +/- 
20 Hz (on 20 meters) as the rig warms up during transmit, even with the fan 
kicking in.  

The K2 does cool down on long receives, which indicates that the fan is having 
some impact, but obviously not enough.  For now I have aimed a desk fan at the 
K2 when operating digital and it has reduced the heat and the drift.   

Is all this normal for digital on the K2?  Are there things I should be looking 
at that might perhaps be indicating a problem in my build?

 My FT-897, for comparison, does not have any noticeable heat spots even after 
long digital transmits of 20 minutes or so (at 25 watts).  Also, on the FT-897 
I 
can get the ALC down below one bar while still keeping it at 25 watts; on the 
K2 
I can never get it below 1-2 bars of ALC.
  
Note to others -- if you're going to aim a desk fan at the K2, make sure that 
you dust first.  It may take a couple of days for me to get all the dust out of 
my mouth from when I first turned on the fan.

Jon
KB1QBZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: RF gain settings forgotten in utility cal routine when using XG-2

2010-09-26 Thread N. Munro
  Stephen
I'm also having problems doing an RF Gain Cal using the latest K3 
Utility (and a few other recent versions).
Various error codes are displayed and the Rx sensitivity is well down 
after I cycle the Power switch off and back on again. The S meter only 
reads about S5 and the MDS drops from -136 dBm to about -120 dBm. Like 
you, restoring the Factory Default settings gets me back to normal.

I have gone back to K3 Utility Ver 1.2.8.10 and everything works as it 
should. The matter has been referred to Gary Surrency at Elecraft 
support and I would expect a reply tomorrow. For info, I have completely 
disconnected the P3 and the RS232 cable from the PC is run straight into 
the K3.
73
Norman - GM4KGK

---

/All of a sudden, I'm having trouble with the K3's receiver following RF gain
calibration and S meter setting.  The RF gain calibration using the utility
leaves the receiver with S9 at -73dBm (using ZG-2) but when I turn off and
then on the K3 the S meter drops to S7 and the RF gain control, although
reducing the perceived signal strength, does not cause the S meter to rise.

The agc has completely default settings throughout.  For the purposes of the
calibration, the K3 is directly connected to the PC, not through the P3.
I'm running the latest firmware and K3 utility.

Having taken a break from typing this, I have only now just found that if I
choose to 'Use factory default RF Gain calibration data' then all is well,
so is this a bug within the latest utility I wonder?

Thanks

73 Stephen G4SJP/


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode use in RTTY contest

2010-09-26 Thread Barry

John - found your post interesting and timely, as I played around with the CW
to RTTY mode last night myself in the contest.  I used to operate the CQWW
RTTY contest regularly, and still hold the USA records for SOHP and SOLP,
after number of years.  I have a feeling I threw off some of the old-time
regulars with my new zone and state :.)  Also, my signal is quite a bit
weaker now, running barefoot and stealth wires.  The only issue I had with
the CW to RTTY mode was trying to send a - (--)  As it's a character I
never use in real CW, it was difficult to send correctly.  

Appreciate your post, especially the tip about CONFIG: VFO OFS.  That's one
setting I'm going to use.  I didn't know it existed.  Regarding your
follow-up post, I don't have a P3 and my K3 is new, and I had no problems. 
The only "issue" I had was the long idle time at the end of a buffer.  I
tried programming IM (..--) into its own buffer, but it wouldn't "take."  I
guess it only accepts real CW characters.  I'd like to see a CONFIG setting
for an adjustable end-idle time.

Barry W2UP


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[Elecraft] Ten-Tec Eagle

2010-09-26 Thread David Robertson
Everyone,
A friend of mine e-mailed me with an attachment with information about the New 
Ten-Tec Eagle HF-6 meter tranceiver I don't know much about the rig yet but so 
far found it interesting. To find it just Google ten-tec eagle.

73
Dave KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: keyboard problems

2010-09-26 Thread Bill W4ZV


Michael van Hauten wrote:
> 
> Hi Elecrafters,
> my new K3 #4739 is ready and works fine. Only one problem is the band
> switch. Switching the bands up by pressing the right side of the
> bandswitch works very well. But for switching the bands down you need a
> lot of pressure, so much that the K3 moves backwards on the table. Any
> solution for this problem?
> 

Hallo Michael,

You didn't say if your unit is factory or kit, but my guess is the front
panel assembly is not properly inserted into the front panel sheet metal. 
Make sure the BAND switch is centered in the panel cutout and not binding on
the left side.  If it's binding, you will need to remove the front panel
assembly and reseat to the sheet metal.  

Otherwise you may need a new front panel assembly from Elecraft if the
switch itself is bad.  I doubt that switch can be easily repaired behind the
rubber buttons but you should contact K3support at elecraft.com for advice.

73 & GL!

Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode: possible Bug?

2010-09-26 Thread N6JW

As indicated in my previous email, the K3 works well in FSK D mode.

However, I think I may have discovered a (rare) bug in the firmware,
that has been 'bugging' me for a long time!  If I am right, I believe this 
issue could have been there from the beginning.  I have K3 #936 and I 
noticed the problem early on (but had no idea what was happening).  
I would very much appreciate it if others could check it out and perhaps
confirm what I am experiencing; thus ruling out the likelihood that it is 
unique to my rig/situation.

Reading my previous email (unfortunately, also rather long!) would 
help in setting the context for my use of the FSK D mode in what follows.

Briefly stated, here is the problem: While in FSK D data mode, 
if one is sending a "chained" stored message, upon returning to 
receive, the audio frequency is "offset" by (I believe) the selected 
Mark pitch frequency (e.g. 915hz or 1275 hz).  The 'offset' remains, 
but some commands can reset things to normal.


Here are some important notes and observations: 

1. The TX frequency does not change and is always correct!  I did not 
realize this until recently.  I originally thought that something was
wrong on my side and that I was off frequency, because the station 
would come back to me on a 'different' frequency.  This led to many 
busted QSO's and undoubted frustration on the part of those I was 
trying to contact.  Having the P3 helped me figure out what was 
happening.

2. As far as I can tell, the problem only occurs after using 'chained'
memories (e.g. M1-M4) for sending.  For example, tapping M1 
(programed with my callsign + IM) twice will cause the problem.  But
NOT if it is only tapped once.  Likewise, tapping M1 then M2 (e.g. 
stored exchange + IM) while M1 is still running (thus chaining them 
together) WILL cause the problem.  If the K3 returns to receive
between sending each memory, the problem will not occur.  Of 
course, in practice the problem appeared intermittent, and I had no
good idea of what was happening until receipt of the P3 and extensive
work with FSK D this weekend.

3. The IM (..--) prosign is NOT causing the problem.  Chained 
messages without it, will still cause the 'offset'.

4. This is NOT RFI related in any way.  The problem can be reliably
reproduced with TX in test mode and no RF output at all.

5. The problem can be reliably reset (restored to normal) by tapping
the A/B button twice.  This switches the K3 to VFO B and then back to 
VFO A.  While running FSK D mode, I have VFO A & B set to the same 
filter, width, etc.  The only difference between VFO A & B would be 
frequency.  Upon testing, the following buttons will reset the problem:
A/B, REV, PITCH, DATA MD.  The list might not be complete.

6. One can see the audio 'offset' quite clearly on the P3 (6 khz scan).
With the passband set to 300 hz (DSP; 500 hz roofing filter), I get
good text copy with the right-hand (Mark?) tone set right on the
P3's center frequency mark.  When the problem occurs the tones
are offset in the passband (the audio goes higher, at least on 20m).

7. Other possible menu settings (e.g. CONFIG menu: FSK POL = 1) or
ALT Mode Button (for sideband reverse) that might have an effect 
have been checked and are OK.  The RIT or XIT is NOT on.  Split
mode is not in effect (the Sub-RX is off), and the yellow Delta LED
is not lit.

8. When the problem is in effect, the built-in decoder will not work (i.e.
copy correctly), and the RX frequency is noticeably different, until the 
frequency has been re-adjusted either with the VFO knob (thus moving
both the RX and TX) or with just the RIT.  Checking the RIT offset, leads
me to believe that the offset is about the same as the PITCH setting for
the Mark frequency. 

9. As far as I can tell, the problem is not related to any recent firmware
version, or the addition of the P3.  I distinctly remember the problem as
an intermittent from my early days with the K3.  I started using the 
memories with stored info from the start of experimenting with FSK D.
It is very likely that I 'chained' memories together early on in doing so.
At the time I just put it down to not knowing enough about RTTY.


Finally, here are the particulars of my setup:


K3/100 #936; with Sub-RX; ATU; DVR; I/O & Audio boards; original
unmodified DSP board.

P3 #597 

Currently running K3 firmware, 4.05 DSP 2.60; P3 vr.0.32

 
If this can be reproduced, corroborated, and confirmed, 
is there a prize for the one who finds the most 'ancient'
bug still in the system? :)

73

John
N6JW 

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Please help

[Elecraft] K3: RF gain settings forgotten in utility cal routine when using XG-2

2010-09-26 Thread Stephen Prior
All of a sudden, I'm having trouble with the K3's receiver following RF gain
calibration and S meter setting.  The RF gain calibration using the utility
leaves the receiver with S9 at -73dBm (using ZG-2) but when I turn off and
then on the K3 the S meter drops to S7 and the RF gain control, although
reducing the perceived signal strength, does not cause the S meter to rise.

The agc has completely default settings throughout.  For the purposes of the
calibration, the K3 is directly connected to the PC, not through the P3.
I'm running the latest firmware and K3 utility.

Having taken a break from typing this, I have only now just found that if I
choose to 'Use factory default RF Gain calibration data' then all is well,
so is this a bug within the latest utility I wonder?

Thanks

73 Stephen G4SJP




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[Elecraft] K3 FSK D Mode use in RTTY contest

2010-09-26 Thread N6JW

This is a two part contribution to the list: first, in this email, a report
on how well
the K3 works in FSK D mode (RTTY without an attached computer); the second
is 
a report of a possible bug in the firmware, which I will raise in a
follow-up email.

First: the K3's FSK D mode (self-contained RTTY) is NOT just a novelty!  It
is a 
perfectly capable performer, particularly in a situation like the CQ WW RTTY
contest 
taking place over this weekend.  I found my new P3 made working this contest 
without software a breeze.  What follows below is a detailed "how-to-do-it"
(with
or without the P3) for the uninitiated, from someone who dabbles casually in
a 
contest or two, from time to time.  It is quite simple.  But be warned, it
is LONG.

-

Of course, the K3 is an exceptionally good performer using normal contest
and data
mode software using an attached computer.  However, for many reasons, some
of 
us don't always want to do it this way.  The FSK D data mode in the K3 makes
it 
possible to operate very effectively with minimal effort.  In just a few
hours of 
operating I have thus far made over 100 DX contacts with nothing but the
K3's 
FSK D mode, running 100w (using a 3 element tribander at 37 feet; and G5RV), 
and a simple logging program running on an ancient laptop.  I do have a new 
P3 and it certainly makes it easier, but it is not essential.  For those who
have 
not yet tried it, but would like to do so, here is how I go about it for
this contest, 
for what it's worth:

1. Switch the K3 to Data mode [use Mode Button], and make sure you are set
to 
45 BPS FSK D mode [use Data MD button]. Set Pitch to your preference (I like 
Mark Tone either 915 or 1275, using Pitch button].  Set Filter width to
about 300 Hz
(this uses the 500Hz roofing filter in my setup; I also have the 200Hz
filter but 
tuning is more critical when it is engaged).

2. Turn CWT on [CWT button]; and Text decode on [Text Dec] ('T' will show on
right
side of screen).  Set the 'Threshold' level somewhere 8-10 [Text Dec
button]. Make 
sure VFO B is reading frequency (if not, tap Display button).

3. Using your paddle, record your callsign and store it in M1:  Tap REC then
M1 and
then send your callsign (I do it twice) and immediately after the last
character send 
the IM (..--) prosign to stop the RTTY idle.  You should hear both CW and
RTTY in the 
monitor while doing so.  With TX inhibited (Test mode; 'TX' flashing) press
M1 and 
make sure it sends, scrolls and stops correctly (watch VFO B space).

4. Do the same for your exchange and store it in M2:  Tap REC then M2 and
then
send something like this "RR 599 zone state TU de yourcallsignIM (..--)".

5. Now you are ready to go [remember to switch Test mode off, 'TX' stops
flashing].
Tune to the RTTY part of the band (e.g. 14073-14120), and tune slowly
through the 
RTTY signals (distinctive alternating two tone rhythm) until you have equal
number 
of bars either side of the CWT mark above the S meter and are getting good
copy 
scrolling across VFO B. [If not, check FSK POL = 1 in the CONFIG menu; make
sure
you are not in REV].  Put the call in the log, and to reply after a "QRZ?"
or "CQ test", 
just tap M1.  If the station comes back with your call, copy down the
exchange info 
(just zone number if DX; zone + state for US) and when carrier cuts, press
M2.  
Check for "CFM" or "QSL" or "TU" and you are done.  Now you can tune for the
next 
one, or go looking for the specific DX of your choice.

6. Of course, you could also use FSK D mode for running (i.e. calling CQ
test). But
it is a little more complex in that you would have to use the paddle to
insert the
callsign you have copied, live.  Here is how I do it:  I switch to memory
bank 2 
(M5-8) and program M1 (really M5) for my CQ test string; and program M2
(really
M6) for the fixed part of the exchange (for me in this contest, "03 03 CA
CA..--").  
When someone answers my CQ, I send their call with my paddle and then press
M2.
I program M4 (M8) "TU N6JW test..--" and use that to confirm the contact.

7. Of course, you can use the K3 Utility program to store the above CW
messages
in the memories of your choice, if you prefer.  If you do, remember to use
the "|" 
symbol for IM (..--) at the end of every line.  BTW, the memories will work
just 
fine as set for either CW or DATA (the IM is just ignored in CW).  What I
outlined
above is how to do it without the computer :)


Having the P3 makes operating a RTTY contest very easy and even more
efficient.  
It becomes like shooting fish in a barrel!  Here is how I happen to do it:

1. I have the second receiver in my K3 but keep it switched off for the
following.
So this will work on any K3 + P3.

2. I set the P3 for maximum waterfall area, and appropriate Ref-Level and
Scale.
I run with Averaging On.  I set the Scan to 6 khz (yes, -+ 3 khz). This
allows you 
to just fill the K3 passband (set to 300 hz) with the two tones (easily seen
at this 
scale) and hardly ever have to touc