[Elecraft] kx1 power supply with nimh batteries

2010-11-14 Thread iz0fyl

Hi folks
just a question:
is it dangerous to connect external power when nimh batteries are installed?
thanks
luca

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[Elecraft] k2 full optional for sale

2010-11-14 Thread iz0fyl

installed :100w , 100watu, dsp, 160m, noise blanker, ssb
1200+shipping
located in italy
73

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Bill W4ZV


wayne burdick wrote:
 
 Joe,
 
 If Lyle is using the same algorithm as before, and your results are as  
 indicated below (virtually a tie), I don't understand how you could be  
 hearing a lack of ringing in the new revision. I simply cannot hear  
 any difference myself, and I'm extremely picky. We have nearly 100  
 people testing, and only two or three have perceived a difference, so  
 given the statistical evidence, I'd suggest that background noise  
 conditions are the variable here, not the firmware. Lyle has also  
 completely reviewed the DSP implementation -- no change.
 

I also suggested the background noise issue to Joe.  The bands have been
relatively quieter since the latest FW was released, and white noise (i.e.
galactic) does not cause the same amount of ringing as impulse noise (i.e.
lightning).  Therefore the quiescent state of APF may sound less ringy
than before. 

I listened to a very weak DS5USH on 80m this morning and the APF was very
effective at bringing him out of the noise.  I also did a few measurements
using the latest 5 Hz SHIFT.  The worst case attenuation (when off zerobeat
by 5 Hz) is 0.5 dB which is probably less than most ears will detect. 
However only ONE setting of SHIFT is optimum so you need to listen carefully
when adjusting.

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] Radio Marti Interference

2010-11-14 Thread Paul Christensen
Those of you in the southeast U.S. using a K3 with a panadapter, I would 
appreciate a 40m scan around 7050 kHz and at 7405 kHz .  Something appears 
to have gone very awry with Radio Marti this morning.  I am seeing extremely 
wide sidebands on 7405 and interference near 7050.

Please reply by direct E-mail.  I need this confirmed by others before I 
escalate the issue.

Paul, W9AC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 I'm still in a quandry :)

I am too G.  The measured results are rather clear but I
miss the magic results I saw with 4.16 ...

The feeling I get with 4.21 is that the Q has been reduced
compared to 4.16 but since the quantitative data shows that's
obviously not the case, I'll just need to continue working
with it to see if I can regain the magic.  Maybe it is just
conditions ... noise levels have been a lot lower the last
couple days but there haven't been as many weak signals either.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 11/13/2010 11:48 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Joe,

 If Lyle is using the same algorithm as before, and your results are as
 indicated below (virtually a tie), I don't understand how you could be
 hearing a lack of ringing in the new revision. I simply cannot hear
 any difference myself, and I'm extremely picky. We have nearly 100
 people testing, and only two or three have perceived a difference, so
 given the statistical evidence, I'd suggest that background noise
 conditions are the variable here, not the firmware. Lyle has also
 completely reviewed the DSP implementation -- no change.

 But since the customers are always right, I'm still in a quandry :)

 tnx
 Wayne

 On Nov 13, 2010, at 6:27 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting...

 Not on your life. The lack of ringing on the newer version seems to
 go along with a general decline in effectiveness. If anything I'd
 prefer to see higher Q.

 Just for grins I reloaded 4.16 to make the same measurements using the
 XG-2 as I made on 4.21. Here is the comparison:

 BW 4.21 4.16
 -
 0 dB 1 2 Hz
 -1 dB 8 9 Hz
 -6 dB 31 31 Hz
 -10 dB 52 49 Hz
 -20 dB 165 162 Hz
 -30 dB 345 351 Hz
 Gain 9.0 9.1 dB

 Unlike W4ZV, I found only a 3 Hz offset in 4.16 (the peak response
 was 3 Hz above zero beat - or the indicated spot/shift frequency).
 Even though the test results were generally the same within the
 measurement tolerances, I still feel the 4.16 version was more effective
 in on air listening.

 These measurements were generated with an XG-2 set for 1 uV with the
 K3 attenuator engaged for an effective signal level of -118 dBm.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV

 On 11/13/2010 8:07 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting... At least a choice of 3 perhaps Wide, Med and Narrow. Even
 if one perceives the APF as less ringy and comments on it being a
 good thing, that means that they are happy to know that the Q got
 widened out a little, and things seem to sound better.

 From: w5...@cybermesa.net
 To: li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 21:19:46 +
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

 Joe wrote:

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't
 pop
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of
 course, and
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be a
 matter of personal preference.

 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to
 play
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other
 opinions. So
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately peaky.

 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)

 Bill W5WVO


 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF


 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the 1 dB points are 8 Hz wide
 the 6 dB points are 31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF.
 They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the
 filter peak
 is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Steve Ellington
The magic is only good for one shot Joe.
Same thing happened when I saw the Grand Canyon for the second time.

Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF



 I'm still in a quandry :)

 I am too G.  The measured results are rather clear but I
 miss the magic results I saw with 4.16 ...

 The feeling I get with 4.21 is that the Q has been reduced
 compared to 4.16 but since the quantitative data shows that's
 obviously not the case, I'll just need to continue working
 with it to see if I can regain the magic.  Maybe it is just
 conditions ... noise levels have been a lot lower the last
 couple days but there haven't been as many weak signals either.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV

 On 11/13/2010 11:48 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Joe,

 If Lyle is using the same algorithm as before, and your results are as
 indicated below (virtually a tie), I don't understand how you could be
 hearing a lack of ringing in the new revision. I simply cannot hear
 any difference myself, and I'm extremely picky. We have nearly 100
 people testing, and only two or three have perceived a difference, so
 given the statistical evidence, I'd suggest that background noise
 conditions are the variable here, not the firmware. Lyle has also
 completely reviewed the DSP implementation -- no change.

 But since the customers are always right, I'm still in a quandry :)

 tnx
 Wayne

 On Nov 13, 2010, at 6:27 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting...

 Not on your life. The lack of ringing on the newer version seems to
 go along with a general decline in effectiveness. If anything I'd
 prefer to see higher Q.

 Just for grins I reloaded 4.16 to make the same measurements using the
 XG-2 as I made on 4.21. Here is the comparison:

 BW 4.21 4.16
 -
 0 dB 1 2 Hz
 -1 dB 8 9 Hz
 -6 dB 31 31 Hz
 -10 dB 52 49 Hz
 -20 dB 165 162 Hz
 -30 dB 345 351 Hz
 Gain 9.0 9.1 dB

 Unlike W4ZV, I found only a 3 Hz offset in 4.16 (the peak response
 was 3 Hz above zero beat - or the indicated spot/shift frequency).
 Even though the test results were generally the same within the
 measurement tolerances, I still feel the 4.16 version was more effective
 in on air listening.

 These measurements were generated with an XG-2 set for 1 uV with the
 K3 attenuator engaged for an effective signal level of -118 dBm.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV

 On 11/13/2010 8:07 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting... At least a choice of 3 perhaps Wide, Med and Narrow. Even
 if one perceives the APF as less ringy and comments on it being a
 good thing, that means that they are happy to know that the Q got
 widened out a little, and things seem to sound better.

 From: w5...@cybermesa.net
 To: li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 21:19:46 +
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

 Joe wrote:

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't
 pop
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of
 course, and
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be 
 a
 matter of personal preference.

 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to
 play
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other
 opinions. So
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately 
 peaky.

 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)

 Bill W5WVO


 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF


 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the 1 dB points are 8 Hz wide
 the 6 dB points are 31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the 

Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

2010-11-14 Thread Neil Shubert
Thank you guys very much,
Once I build em, I move on and get into other things,

-Neil

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:49 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Sam,

 Go to www.n0ss.net and download it from there.  If you are not successful
 there, email me direct and I will send you either Specrtogram 5.17 or
 Spectrogram 16 which had both been released as Freeware before the author
 pulled the plug on all his software.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 11/13/2010 9:31 PM, Samuel Strongin wrote:

   Hi I was looking for Spectrogram,  my old computer crashed and I wanted
 to
 download it, Looks like it is no longer available!!


 Sam kf4yox

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 9:01 PM
 To: Neil Shubert
 Cc: elecraft group
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

   Neil,

 For K2 Dial Calibration issues, go to my website www.w3fpr.com and look
 at the K2 Dial Calibration article there.
 It should solve your problem - do the whole process including the filter
 parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 8:21 PM, Neil Shubert wrote:

 Hi all,
 Its been a long time since I tinkered with my K2 and I am getting reports
 that I am a few KC's off on 20M

 sure enough they sound that way too, so when I tune them in better, I am
 about  7-8 Kc off frequency

 what should I start looking at?


 -Neil
 Ac2o
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Re: [Elecraft] kx1 power supply with nimh batteries

2010-11-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Luca,

Not at all.  Both the batteries and the external power source have 
isolation diodes.
The KX1 will draw power from the source having the greater voltage level.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/14/2010 3:48 AM, iz0fyl wrote:
 Hi folks
 just a question:
 is it dangerous to connect external power when nimh batteries are installed?
 thanks
 luca

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[Elecraft] k8dd SK !!!!

2010-11-14 Thread Bill NY9H
FWD:


Subject: [nidxa] K8DD - Silent Key



Some of you may know Hank Kohl, K8DD.  He often attended W9DXCC.  He 
recently went into the hospital for a relatively routine surgery, but 
caught pneumonia which lead to respiratory complications.   He died 
last night after 4 weeks in ICU.

Hank was an avid DX-er and contester and went on many expeditions.

  73,
John
K9EL

i SAW THI ON ANOTHER REFLECTOR

BILL /3 
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[Elecraft] K3 S/N 4904 QRV

2010-11-14 Thread Bob Henderson
I'm rather late coming to this particular party, as these days I mostly
operate with my home built Picastar transceiver.  Plans to activate T88ZM
and KH0/G3ZEM early in the new year, combined with a sense of foreboding
over the idea of braving the vagaries of world-wide airport security, whilst
armed with a home made electronic contrivance, have persuaded me to finally
take the plunge adding a K3 to my Elecraft inventory.

S/N 4904 kit including KXV3A and KPA100 arrived here yesterday morning.  I
had a thoroughly enjoyable day assembling the unit then running through
alignment.  The new baby finally hit the airwaves at 1545z in a 40m long
path QSO with VE6MRV.

I am absolutely delighted.  I now just await arrival of a 500Hz roofer from
Inrad.

Lisa handled my order placement with great charm and efficiency.  Elecraft
certainly delivers quality in style.

Many thanks to the Elecraft team.

73 Bob, 5B4AGN
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The Weller WES51 and the Aoyue 937 were both highly recommended (I don't
have experience with either. I use a Hakko 936, also an excellent soldering
station). The Hakko has a grounded tip. I don't know whether the others are
isolated or grounded.  

I note that Amazon.com has a sale going on featuring the WES56 and Aoyue
937. Don't know how competitive the prices are overall - I didn't check
other sites. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Gang 

last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
could
someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
I believe it had an isolated tip etc

Bob K3DJC

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Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
One of the earliest members of this list, Tom N0SS, has Spectrogram for
downloading from his web site at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k2.html

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

  Hi I was looking for Spectrogram,  my old computer crashed and I wanted to

download it, Looks like it is no longer available!!


Sam kf4yox


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Good morning Elecrafters,

I decided to try and bypass RFC4 by using a small wire jumper soldered to
vias connected to RFC4.  Please see link below for image.  So far,
everything seems to work just fine now, which confirms my suspicion that
RFC4 was dead even before I did anything.  I should have tried the jumper
first!  Probably could have saved me a lot of time tearing the K3 apart.

Anyway, here's the picture of the jumper:
http://jamespaulsarte.com/temp/k2qi/k3_rfc4_jumper.jpg

Now that the choke has been bypassed, what could possibly happen? RF
entering the rig through the paddle cable?
-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-14 Thread Paul Christensen
One point not mentioned earlier is that there's a difference between 
temperature control, where the tip contains a sensor and soldering 
stations advertised as variable temperature.  The better stations contain 
a tip temperature sensor.  It's easy to be deceived in purchasing the wrong 
type of station based on unusually low price and the wording used in an ad.

Paul, W9AC


- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: riese-k3...@juno.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station


 The Weller WES51 and the Aoyue 937 were both highly recommended (I don't
 have experience with either. I use a Hakko 936, also an excellent 
 soldering
 station). The Hakko has a grounded tip. I don't know whether the others 
 are
 isolated or grounded.

 I note that Amazon.com has a sale going on featuring the WES56 and Aoyue
 937. Don't know how competitive the prices are overall - I didn't check
 other sites.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-

 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Steve has a serious point. I've used filters just like this for a good many
years on CW. One gets used to its effect and the Gee Whiz! response does
diminish. 

On the K3 (the only receiver I've use my external filters with that has such
variable bandwidth) I've noticed the effect varies greatly with the overall
bandwidth chosen as well, whether I'm using the internal APF or my external
active peaking filter. Might that be some of the difference people are
noticing? 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
The magic is only good for one shot Joe.
Same thing happened when I saw the Grand Canyon for the second time.

Steve


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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Egad! Are they still around? Decades ago we used to make variable
temperature irons plugging a conventional iron into a Variac. The ARRL
handbook included a piece on using a (then new) lamp dimmer to vary the
power to a conventional iron. 

I can say for from experience that the Hakko has a temp sensor and is
variable temperature. It is spec'd at maintaining idle tip temperature
within 1 degree C. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

One point not mentioned earlier is that there's a difference between 
temperature control, where the tip contains a sensor and soldering 
stations advertised as variable temperature.  The better stations contain 
a tip temperature sensor.  It's easy to be deceived in purchasing the wrong 
type of station based on unusually low price and the wording used in an ad.

Paul, W9AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread Vic K2VCO
The worst that could happen if you bypass it is that if you have a long lead to 
the paddle 
and if it happens to pick up RF, it might upset the keying. So just try it on 
all bands 
with your various antennas to make sure it's OK. If it isn't, you should hear 
it right away.

On 11/13/2010 11:04 PM, James Sarte wrote:
 I suppose you're right Vic.  I've just never been too confident in my 
 soldering skills
 when it comes to small surface-mount parts like this choke.  Like I said 
 earlier, my iron
 slipped and I even managed to slightly warp the plastic casing on the choke.  
 Ugh.  When
 it comes to larger, thru-hole stuff then it isn't a problem.

 If I bypass the choke, what's the worst that could happen?

 Anyway, I'm still thinking about sending it back... Aptos agreed to swap out 
 the filter
 and mic encoders for the newer, less-viscous feeling versions after my 
 original encoders
 went kaput and they sent me an FP board with these stiff ones.  So either 
 way, I'd be out
 of a K3 for a few days.  I could kill two birds with one stone and also have 
 them do a
 complete check to make sure everything else is working before sending it back.

 I wouldn't be completely dead in the water anyway.  I have an Icom 756 Pro 
 III that I
 could use in the meantime.

 Tnx,
 James K2QI

 On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Vic K2VCO v...@rakefet.com 
 mailto:v...@rakefet.com wrote:

 If you could get to it to reheat the terminals, you can replace it.

 And, as the previous poster indicated, it's just an RF filter for the 
 paddle. Chances
 are you can short it out and you won't have a problem. You can get back 
 on the air
 until Elecraft sends you a replacement part.

 You don't need to send your radio to the factory to fix this!



 --
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/




 --
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN


-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread 4X4DK-AMI SHAMI
Wayne 

 

I also think that the background noise characteristic and intensity are the
major factors that influence 

 the performance of the APF, which seems to work very well.

 

Ami  

 

4X4DK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Jim Brown
On 11/14/2010 4:20 AM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 I also suggested the background noise issue to Joe.

This makes sense to me, Bill.  It's the noise that excites the ringing, 
and the TRANSIENT waveform of the noise  is almost certain to affect the 
extent of the ringing.  I have VERY limited experience with the Beta (a 
few QSOs in CWSS with 4.17 and a few more during OK/OM this weekend with 
4.21). The waveform of the CW probably also matters -- there was a LOT 
of flutter on the OK/OM signals here in CA.  Some of those OK/OM signals 
were also quite weak, but I didn't find the APF any more useful than a 
narrow IF setting in pulling them out.

In general, I found the APF to be effective on some signals and a waste 
of time on others.  I also found it tricky to tune in, and thus not as 
effective in contest operation.

As to Joe's measurements -- I've done a LOT of measurements, and I'd 
call these two sets of data he posted a dead heat.

FWIW -- I loaded 4.21 Friday afternoon and ran a couple of hours in 
OK/OM on 20M Saturday morning and about 8 hours in JIDX SSB.After 
loading 4.21, I also used a new version of K3 Util to recal TX power.  
No issues with the Beta.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-14 Thread Mel Farrer
Well, my favorite is the METCAL PS2E-01.  Takes all tip configurations and temp 
ranges.  An older unit, but has never failed in over 15 years.  Price used is 
$130 up but worth every penny.  Check them out on the web. 


Mel, K6KBE





From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, November 14, 2010 9:48:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

Egad! Are they still around? Decades ago we used to make variable
temperature irons plugging a conventional iron into a Variac. The ARRL
handbook included a piece on using a (then new) lamp dimmer to vary the
power to a conventional iron. 

I can say for from experience that the Hakko has a temp sensor and is
variable temperature. It is spec'd at maintaining idle tip temperature
within 1 degree C. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

One point not mentioned earlier is that there's a difference between 
temperature control, where the tip contains a sensor and soldering 
stations advertised as variable temperature.  The better stations contain 
a tip temperature sensor.  It's easy to be deceived in purchasing the wrong 
type of station based on unusually low price and the wording used in an ad.

Paul, W9AC


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[Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Did anyone read the December QST's review of the FTDX5000MP?

And I quote:

The FTDX5000 series establishes a new benchmark, the highest close-in IMD
dynamic range and third-order intercept we've ever measured.

And the review goes on to state:

For Receiver A, at the where-it-really-matters 2kHz spacing, the two-tone
third-order IMD dynamic range at 14 MHz is just as good as at 20 kHz
spacing.  In all cases, IMD dynamic range was well over 100dB.  This is the
receiver with a 9 MHz first IF and narrow roofing filters, currently the hot
setup for top-of-the-line close-in dynamic range.

For Receiver B, with a VHF IF and without the narrow roofing filters, the
worst-case dynamic range was 88 dB on 14 MHz at 2 kHz spacing; all other
numbers were in the 90s, the best being 98 dB on 14 MHz at 5 kHz spacing,
yielding an IP3 of +25 dBm.

According to the measurement summary, 2 kHz blocking gain compression is 136
dB on 20m and 80m.  The third-order dynamic range was measured at 114 dB on
20.  On the TX side, transmit 3rd order IMD was -30 dB on 80m, and -35 dB on
20.

I don't know about the rest of you guys, but that's pretty impressive.  Even
the sub receiver's performance (while no match for the K3's sub with
filters) still puts on a good show, and is a lot better receiver than some
other rig's main receivers.

For $6,000, it's a lot of radio (literally), and would never fit on my
desk.  But if you compare it to the FT-9000 or IC-7800, it's a relative
bargain.

Honestly, it looks like a great radio if you like a lot of knobs and
buttons.  I won't be buying an FTDX5000 anytime soon, as the K3 does all of
that and more at the fraction of the cost, size, and weight.  Plus, Elecraft
has in my opinion the best support in the industry.  For those however that
want a big rig, I think this is the one to beat.

-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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[Elecraft] Key in K3 not working

2010-11-14 Thread Chuck Mabbott
Have you tried a different key?

While slim chance it is that simple might be worth a try before you 
tear into the radio?

73  Chuck AA8VS


Here's what I did now to rule out the actual K3 jack:

I took the rear bottom panel off.  I checked continuity with a plug
connected to the socket.  I touched ground on the plug and G on the RF main
board and that passed.  Did the same with ring R, and tip T, and all
passed.  So there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the contacts
inside the jack itself.

Strange...
-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN


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[Elecraft] OT: How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-14 Thread Chuck Mabbott
We just think they are not related, funny how software/ hardware
works isn't it Wayne...

73  Chuck AA8VS

-Original Message- 
From: Wayne Burdick
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 16:53
To: Barry
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

Even though features may not be related, one can cause side-effects in
another due to unintentional modification of variables. Of course we
jump through a lot of hoops to avoid this, but programmers are
(unfortunately) human.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Pete Smith
I dunno, maybe I'm missing something, but I have always tuned the APF to 
550 Hz, which is where my CW pitch is set, and find it works well 
without tuning.  That's the way my TS-930's APF worked, and I always 
found it very helpful even on moderate strength signals.

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 11/14/2010 1:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 In general, I found the APF to be effective on some signals and a waste
 of time on others.  I also found it tricky to tune in, and thus not as
 effective in contest operation.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Rick Prather
Impressive! 

Sets an new standard for big Japanese radios.  Sure would tick me off if I had 
recently bought an FT-2000 or worse yet, an FTdx-9000!

For myself, I would not be in the least bit tempted to replace my K3 with it 
though.

I'll be interested in Rob's numbers when he gets around to it.

Rick
K6LE


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[Elecraft] Still no tx or rx on new K3

2010-11-14 Thread Robert Redmon
Help! I am still stuck. My new K3 (just finished partial assembly to 
K3-10 stage) does not transmit or receive. I discovered this yesterday 
when I tried to do the TX gain calibration. It failed (due to 0 output). 
I think hooked an antenna to Ant 1 and found I had almost no receive 
either. I can receive very strong signals but they are very weak on the 
K3. The ATU is installed and enabled as is the transverter io board. I 
have not installed the 100w amp, the second rx, or the 2mtr xvtr yet.  
What might be causing this? I am really frustrated that my new radio is 
fighting me in this way.

-- 
73, Bob K5SM

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Re: [Elecraft] Key in K3 not working

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Hi Chuck,

I didn't have another paddle to try, but all of my testing has shown that
choke RFC4 was to blame.  It's wide open with no continuity.  I have since
bypassed the choke with a piece of wire and now everything works properly.
I'm still waiting to hear back from Dale whether or not he will send me a
replacement choke, or if I should just send the K3 back to Aptos.

Here's a pic of my mod
http://jamespaulsarte.com/temp/k2qi/k3_rfc4_jumper.jpg

73,
James K2QI
On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 2:15 PM, Chuck Mabbott crmabb...@comcast.netwrote:

 Have you tried a different key?

 While slim chance it is that simple might be worth a try before you
 tear into the radio?

 73  Chuck AA8VS


 Here's what I did now to rule out the actual K3 jack:

 I took the rear bottom panel off.  I checked continuity with a plug
 connected to the socket.  I touched ground on the plug and G on the RF main
 board and that passed.  Did the same with ring R, and tip T, and all
 passed.  So there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the contacts
 inside the jack itself.

 Strange...
 --
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN


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-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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[Elecraft] FT-5000

2010-11-14 Thread Joseph Trombino, Jr
Reading a bit further in the review on the FT-5000 they mention noticeable 
noise of a relay clicking during CW QSK operation (probably the antenna 
changeover relay).

I can't imagine paying $5K for a radio that produces noticeable clicks on 
CW/QSK.

And to think I paid less than half of that for my K3/100 that is absolutely 
silent during CW QSK operation.

Guess Yaesu doesn't design antenna switching networks using PIN diodes. I 
wonder who got the design right??? (grin).

Back to my silent CW/QSK on my lowly K3.

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread The Smiths

What kind of thing is that to tell someone??? It may take months to get your 
K3 back??? First off, have you even bothered to ask Elecraft how long their 
back log is??? 
 
Second, How about you just order a new board under warranty and do an advanced 
replacement returning the bad board when you exchange it out. You've obviously 
proven that you're capable of digging into the K3 on your own and getting 
things done.  Swapping a board is nothing.

Furthermore, telling someone to short out a choke that was put there for a 
reason is an even worse idea, whether it would work or not isn't the question. 
You're just asking for problems later when something else goes wrong. Doing 
that to TEST something is fine, but to repair it, no thank you.. I'm glad I 
didn't bring my rig to your shop...
 
 
 From: n...@carolina.rr.com
 To: k2qi@gmail.com; k6...@sbcglobal.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 23:16:07 -0500
 CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
 
 Just bypass it with a piece of wire. It probably won't matter.
 It might take months to get your K3 back!
 
 N4LQ
 Steve
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
 To: Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.net
 Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 10:56 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
 
 
  Gene et all,
 
  I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
  warped the casing of the choke on one side. No good. No continuity at 
  all
  from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.
 
  Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
  repair.
 
  73 de James K2QI
 
  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff 
  k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:
 
  I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few 
  months
  ago (S/N 3172). With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of 
  the
  surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
  the
  board needed resoldering. Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
  you
  will probably find one of them not connected. Carefully resolder each
  end
  while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should 
  work.
 
  Gene K6TTM
 
 
 
 
 
 
  -- 
  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Hi there ??? (apologies, but I don't recall ever seeing your name or call in
emails)...

Not sure if Aptos would be willing to send a whole RF board out just for a
small choke.  I could ask them, but even then, that's a whole lot of work.
I'm not sure if it'd be worth it for me to go that route as I have very
little spare time.  I think I'd rather take my chances with replacing the
choke myself.  I've already done the IF OUTPUT BUFFER mod, and the VFO noise
mod, so some of the fear of working on the K3 is already gone.  Still -
dealing with little SMD components isn't my bag baby! hi hi.

Anyway, Dale already told me he'd send a replacement choke out.  I still
have an open RMA though to have my stiff encoders swapped out with the
newer, less-viscous versions, so I may just send it back to kill two birds
with one stone.

The jumper that I soldered to the board will not stay.  It was just a way
for me to fully verify that RFC4 was indeed faulty - which it is.  I will
probably leave it in until I get the new choke, or until I send the unit
back to California.  I just wanted to practice my code anyway by using the
CW decoder... I don't intend to TX yet as I've got a sloppy fist.

73 de James K2QI
On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:07 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Second, How about you just order a new board under warranty and do an
 advanced replacement returning the bad board when you exchange it out.
 You've obviously proven that you're capable of digging into the K3 on your
 own and getting things done.  Swapping a board is nothing.

 Furthermore, telling someone to short out a choke that was put there for a
 reason is an even worse idea, whether it would work or not isn't the
 question. You're just asking for problems later when something else goes
 wrong. Doing that to TEST something is fine, but to repair it, no thank
 you.. I'm glad I didn't bring my rig to your shop...


  From: n...@carolina.rr.com
  To: k2qi@gmail.com; k6...@sbcglobal.net
  Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 23:16:07 -0500
  CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread The Smiths

I'm sure that if you weren't confident about your soldering the SMD parts they 
would send you another board to swap out, especially if you were under 
warranty. I don't think that they 'expect' anyone to solder smd parts on an 
under warranty piece of equipment.  That's the kind of service and support that 
we've all seen time after time with Elecraft.  Another one of the big reasons 
that I not only bought a K3, but repair them for others when they have problems 
too.  
I know that Dale at Elecraft is FAST and efficent at sending both boards and 
SMD or other parts to me when requested.  This was offered as a Kit radio (if 
ordered that way) and for that reason alone I would think there shouldn't be 
any issues with Elecraft swapping out whole boards for isolated problems.
 
Of course if time is an issue, and it doesn't seem to be in this case as we've 
seen you trouble shoot, then soldering to repair, and once again jumping the 
choke to test with. Than in that case a person should send their rig in for 
repair.  
 
I think that I was more concerned about the person announcing on the reflector 
that it could take MONTHS to get back.  Especially when they probably haven't 
done any research to find out what the current turn around time is at Aptos.  
As you know, with the seasons the demand for repairs etc. tends to go up and 
down.  Still, I don't know of a case where the word months would be 
appropriate.  Perhaps a few weeks, even a Month and a half... but months 
tends to indicate MANY months time.
 
 
 
 
 


Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 15:21:09 -0500
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
From: k2qi@gmail.com
To: notforc...@hotmail.com
CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net


Hi there ??? (apologies, but I don't recall ever seeing your name or call in 
emails)...
 
Not sure if Aptos would be willing to send a whole RF board out just for a 
small choke.  I could ask them, but even then, that's a whole lot of work.  I'm 
not sure if it'd be worth it for me to go that route as I have very little 
spare time.  I think I'd rather take my chances with replacing the choke 
myself.  I've already done the IF OUTPUT BUFFER mod, and the VFO noise mod, so 
some of the fear of working on the K3 is already gone.  Still - dealing with 
little SMD components isn't my bag baby! hi hi.
 
Anyway, Dale already told me he'd send a replacement choke out.  I still have 
an open RMA though to have my stiff encoders swapped out with the newer, 
less-viscous versions, so I may just send it back to kill two birds with one 
stone.
 
The jumper that I soldered to the board will not stay.  It was just a way for 
me to fully verify that RFC4 was indeed faulty - which it is.  I will probably 
leave it in until I get the new choke, or until I send the unit back to 
California.  I just wanted to practice my code anyway by using the CW 
decoder... I don't intend to TX yet as I've got a sloppy fist.
 
73 de James K2QI

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:07 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:


Second, How about you just order a new board under warranty and do an advanced 
replacement returning the bad board when you exchange it out. You've obviously 
proven that you're capable of digging into the K3 on your own and getting 
things done.  Swapping a board is nothing.

Furthermore, telling someone to short out a choke that was put there for a 
reason is an even worse idea, whether it would work or not isn't the question. 
You're just asking for problems later when something else goes wrong. Doing 
that to TEST something is fine, but to repair it, no thank you.. I'm glad I 
didn't bring my rig to your shop...
 
 
 From: n...@carolina.rr.com
 To: k2qi@gmail.com; k6...@sbcglobal.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 23:16:07 -0500
 CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Well, time is always an issue for me.  This weekend I was lucky as I didn't
have to work.  I was able to troubleshoot the radio and figure out what the
problem was.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, I'd rather take my chances replacing the
choke myself then spend hours tearing the K3 apart, then putting it back
together again, hoping that nothing else would be wrong with it once I'm
done.

I did put my K3 together as a kit, so I do have experience working on it...
it's just not something I look forward to doing.  In the little time I do
have to play radio, I'd rather play than fix. :)

73 de James K2QI

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:38 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:


 Of course if time is an issue, and it doesn't seem to be in this case as
 we've seen you trouble shoot, then soldering to repair, and once again
 jumping the choke to test with. Than in that case a person should send
 their rig in for repair.


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Re: [Elecraft] Still no tx or rx on new K3

2010-11-14 Thread Bill W4ZV


Robert Redmon wrote:
 
 Help! I am still stuck. My new K3 (just finished partial assembly to 
 K3-10 stage) does not transmit or receive. 
 

Save yourself some time and contact k3support at elecraft.com.  You will
deal with a true professional (Gary Surrency AB7MY) who knows the K3 inside
out.  He'll save you a lot of wild goose chases which you might take
otherwise.

73,  Bill
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Still-no-tx-or-rx-on-new-K3-tp5738110p5738313.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
You handled it just like I would, James, and I've repaired communications
equipment, LF through microwave, professionally as well as built countless
kits and scratch-built Ham rigs, many of my own design. 

I don't know if the fellow behind The Smiths built his K3 from a kit, but
you and I both know that replacing the RF board is a big job involving
completely disassembling the K3 back to a kit except for the front panel
assembly. I've done it. Time is required, just as with the original
assembly. Rushing, while assuming one remembers exactly what to do, will
certainly lead to time-consuming mistakes.

RF chokes on leads leading outside the rig are for RF suppression - to keep
RF in or, in this case, certainly to keep RF that might trigger the circuit
out. 

You'd know instantly if there was a problem.  Your rig would key when you
operated something else, or stick in transmit if it's own RF trigger the key
line. 

In your situation I'd replace the choke too, but if it were too difficult to
get to, I'd add a similar value choke to points I could reach physically as
close to the existing choke as possible. 

73,

Ron AC7AC


 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 12:54 PM
To: The Smiths
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

Well, time is always an issue for me.  This weekend I was lucky as I didn't
have to work.  I was able to troubleshoot the radio and figure out what the
problem was.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, I'd rather take my chances replacing the
choke myself then spend hours tearing the K3 apart, then putting it back
together again, hoping that nothing else would be wrong with it once I'm
done.

I did put my K3 together as a kit, so I do have experience working on it...
it's just not something I look forward to doing.  In the little time I do
have to play radio, I'd rather play than fix. :)

73 de James K2QI

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:38 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:


 Of course if time is an issue, and it doesn't seem to be in this case as
 we've seen you trouble shoot, then soldering to repair, and once again
 jumping the choke to test with. Than in that case a person should send
 their rig in for repair.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread Steve Ellington
Who is The Smiths? 
Sure are touchy little guys aren't they? Smart too!

N4LQ
Steve

  - Original Message - 
  From: The Smiths 
  To: n...@carolina.rr.com ; k2qi@gmail.com ; k6...@sbcglobal.net 
  Cc: Elecraft Reflector ; d...@w3fpr.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 3:07 PM
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


  What kind of thing is that to tell someone??? It may take months to get your 
K3 back??? First off, have you even bothered to ask Elecraft how long their 
back log is??? 
   
  Second, How about you just order a new board under warranty and do an 
advanced replacement returning the bad board when you exchange it out. You've 
obviously proven that you're capable of digging into the K3 on your own and 
getting things done.  Swapping a board is nothing.

  Furthermore, telling someone to short out a choke that was put there for a 
reason is an even worse idea, whether it would work or not isn't the question. 
You're just asking for problems later when something else goes wrong. Doing 
that to TEST something is fine, but to repair it, no thank you.. I'm glad I 
didn't bring my rig to your shop...
   
   
   From: n...@carolina.rr.com
   To: k2qi@gmail.com; k6...@sbcglobal.net
   Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 23:16:07 -0500
   CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
   
   Just bypass it with a piece of wire. It probably won't matter.
   It might take months to get your K3 back!
   
   N4LQ
   Steve
   
   - Original Message - 
   From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
   To: Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.net
   Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
   Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 10:56 PM
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
   
   
Gene et all,
   
I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
warped the casing of the choke on one side. No good. No continuity at 
all
from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.
   
Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
repair.
   
73 de James K2QI
   
On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
   
   
   
On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff 
k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:
   
I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few 
months
ago (S/N 3172). With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of 
the
surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
the
board needed resoldering. Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
you
will probably find one of them not connected. Carefully resolder each
end
while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should 
work.
   
Gene K6TTM
   
   
   
   
   
   
-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Hi Ron,

Yes, replacement of the whole RF board would be very time and labor
intensive; certainly something that I'd like to avoid at all possible
costs.  I would rather send the K3 back to Aptos, and use my Icom in the
interim, then take the K3 apart to that level.

Just last night, I removed the side panel with handle, the rear panel and
everything attached to it.  I also removed the KIO3 and transverter board so
I could see what was on the other side of the RF board under the choke.
Putting it back together, I had to spend some time looking at the manual -
not because I couldn't remember how it was assembled, but because I
couldn't recall the different screw sizes and types and which holes they
thread in to.  I can only imagine how much longer it would take me if I had
to swap the whole RF board out!

Anyway, I've asked Dale to send me two of the RFC4 chokes in case I damage
one while performing the swap.  If I can't get it right, then I'll send the
K3 back to Aptos.

73 de James K2QI


On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 4:35 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 You handled it just like I would, James, and I've repaired communications
 equipment, LF through microwave, professionally as well as built countless
 kits and scratch-built Ham rigs, many of my own design.

 I don't know if the fellow behind The Smiths built his K3 from a kit, but
 you and I both know that replacing the RF board is a big job involving
 completely disassembling the K3 back to a kit except for the front panel
 assembly. I've done it. Time is required, just as with the original
 assembly. Rushing, while assuming one remembers exactly what to do, will
 certainly lead to time-consuming mistakes.

 RF chokes on leads leading outside the rig are for RF suppression - to keep
 RF in or, in this case, certainly to keep RF that might trigger the circuit
 out.

 You'd know instantly if there was a problem.  Your rig would key when you
 operated something else, or stick in transmit if it's own RF trigger the
 key
 line.

 In your situation I'd replace the choke too, but if it were too difficult
 to
 get to, I'd add a similar value choke to points I could reach physically as
 close to the existing choke as possible.

 73,

 Ron AC7AC




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread Steve Ellington
James;
Congratulations. You did everything right. Consulted with users, located 
defective part, bypassed the choke with wire as suggested and order 
replacement. That's exactly what I would have done.
A job well done! 73
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


 Hi Ron,

 Yes, replacement of the whole RF board would be very time and labor
 intensive; certainly something that I'd like to avoid at all possible
 costs.  I would rather send the K3 back to Aptos, and use my Icom in the
 interim, then take the K3 apart to that level.

 Just last night, I removed the side panel with handle, the rear panel and
 everything attached to it.  I also removed the KIO3 and transverter board 
 so
 I could see what was on the other side of the RF board under the choke.
 Putting it back together, I had to spend some time looking at the manual -
 not because I couldn't remember how it was assembled, but because I
 couldn't recall the different screw sizes and types and which holes they
 thread in to.  I can only imagine how much longer it would take me if I 
 had
 to swap the whole RF board out!

 Anyway, I've asked Dale to send me two of the RFC4 chokes in case I damage
 one while performing the swap.  If I can't get it right, then I'll send 
 the
 K3 back to Aptos.

 73 de James K2QI


 On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 4:35 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 You handled it just like I would, James, and I've repaired communications
 equipment, LF through microwave, professionally as well as built 
 countless
 kits and scratch-built Ham rigs, many of my own design.

 I don't know if the fellow behind The Smiths built his K3 from a kit, 
 but
 you and I both know that replacing the RF board is a big job involving
 completely disassembling the K3 back to a kit except for the front 
 panel
 assembly. I've done it. Time is required, just as with the original
 assembly. Rushing, while assuming one remembers exactly what to do, will
 certainly lead to time-consuming mistakes.

 RF chokes on leads leading outside the rig are for RF suppression - to 
 keep
 RF in or, in this case, certainly to keep RF that might trigger the 
 circuit
 out.

 You'd know instantly if there was a problem.  Your rig would key when you
 operated something else, or stick in transmit if it's own RF trigger the
 key
 line.

 In your situation I'd replace the choke too, but if it were too difficult
 to
 get to, I'd add a similar value choke to points I could reach physically 
 as
 close to the existing choke as possible.

 73,

 Ron AC7AC




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
Thank you Steve,

I couldn't have done it without support from the reflector and the great
crew at Elecraft.

Again, one of the many reasons why Elecraft and its user community is head
and shoulders above the rest.

73,
James K2QI
On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 5:00 PM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.comwrote:

 James;
 Congratulations. You did everything right. Consulted with users, located
 defective part, bypassed the choke with wire as suggested and order
 replacement. That's exactly what I would have done.
 A job well done! 73
 N4LQ
 Steve


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[Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-14 Thread Erik Basilier
A few years ago I needed to get a new soldering station suitable for SMT
work. Since my old station made by Weller was still going strong after some
40 years, I looked to the same brand. Almost got a WES51, but then I noticed
that I could have an 80 watt unit, WD1002, that still had a very compact
pencil (50 mm from tip to handle) and with a wide selection of very fine
tips. This unit was touted as particularly good for lead-free work, likely
to become common soon. I splurged and got this unit that is currently about
$300. Maybe overkill for an amateur, but I don't think I will need to buy
another in my lifetime. The unit consists of a WD1 power station with
digital display, a pencil stand and a WP80 pencil. 3 pushbuttons allow easy
change between 3 favorite adjustable temperatures. ESD safe of course. The
tip is connected to a jack on the power unit, and can be left floating or
connected to ground or a potential of your choosing. In today's economic
climate I might have gone for the cheaper unit, but no regrets, I enjoy this
unit every time I use it.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  Sure would tick me off if I had recently bought an FT-2000

Ticks me off as an early owner of a FT-2000.  The FT-5000 provides
the performance that the FT-2000 *should have provided*.  Instead,
Yaesu released a transceiver that is arguably the modern day FT-101.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/14/2010 2:38 PM, Rick Prather wrote:
 Impressive!

 Sets an new standard for big Japanese radios.  Sure would tick me off if I 
 had recently bought an FT-2000 or worse yet, an FTdx-9000!

 For myself, I would not be in the least bit tempted to replace my K3 with it 
 though.

 I'll be interested in Rob's numbers when he gets around to it.

 Rick
 K6LE


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
I'm so glad I didn't buy the FT2K when I was looking for something to
replace my Yaesu FT-840.  Before buying the K3, I based my search on the
following criteria:

1. Excellent receiver
2. Great customer support and user interaction
3. Made in USA (not mandatory, but it's always nice to support your country)
4. Easy enough to move around

The only product that met those requirements was the Elecraft K2 and K3.
I'm happy with my purchase decision, even after 2 years of ownership.

Maybe one day, when I have a proper home and room for a big box radio, the
FTDX5000 will be a contender.  Or who knows... maybe the K4 will be the next
big thing... :)

73,
James K2QI



On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 5:23 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:


   Sure would tick me off if I had recently bought an FT-2000

 Ticks me off as an early owner of a FT-2000.  The FT-5000 provides
 the performance that the FT-2000 *should have provided*.  Instead,
 Yaesu released a transceiver that is arguably the modern day FT-101.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV




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[Elecraft] KPA100 fan test

2010-11-14 Thread Mike Weir

I have checked out just fine up until the fan test on page 49 of the assembly 
manual. I set the power control to above 11 watts now to edit the PA menu I get 
to the point were the display on the k3 reads   PAON   If I tap the display 
button I am not getting to the fan setup menu. I know I am doing something 
wrong with button pushing or something but just not sure what. In the manual it 
tells me to Edit the PA menu parameter I seem to be tapping menu and then 
tapping display to get to the secondary menu but when I get to PA I just can't 
get to the fan control options to do the fan test. 
Mike VE3WDM
http://ve3wdm.blogspot.com
  
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 fan test

2010-11-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Mike,

Is the underline cursor under the ON in the PA ON menu?  It must be.
To set up to Edit the menu parameter, you must hold the EDIT button, 
and the cursor will move to the right.  Once it is there, tap the 
DISPLAY button to cycle through the fan modes.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/14/2010 5:37 PM, Mike Weir wrote:
 I have checked out just fine up until the fan test on page 49 of the assembly 
 manual. I set the power control to above 11 watts now to edit the PA menu I 
 get to the point were the display on the k3 reads   PAON   If I tap the 
 display button I am not getting to the fan setup menu. I know I am doing 
 something wrong with button pushing or something but just not sure what. In 
 the manual it tells me to Edit the PA menu parameter I seem to be tapping 
 menu and then tapping display to get to the secondary menu but when I get to 
 PA I just can't get to the fan control options to do the fan test.
 Mike VE3WDM
 http://ve3wdm.blogspot.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 fan test

2010-11-14 Thread VE3WDM

Thanks very much DonWeird thought that was what I was doing but seems
not. I did as you said and all checked out with the fan speed just fine. Now
it is on the the Bias currant adjustment going to use an DMM for this oneI
have a Fluke that can be configured for 10 amps the other options is only
400ma rated. 
Thanks Don
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA100-fan-test-tp5738497p5738538.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Craig D. Smith
I read and enjoyed the review.  It looks like a very good product, and will
no doubt sell well - as it should.

For me the only advantage it would have over my K3/P3 is the integrated 200
W capability and integrated power supply with  12V power - both nice
features.  But I wouldn't consider buying one, the deal breakers being:
size/weight, audible QSK relay and single color panadapter w/o waterfall.
Not to mention the more intangibles, such as ease of firmware updates and
ability to do 80% of the servicing myself.  Close, but no cigar  ;)

73  Craig  AC0DS



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 fan test

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I'm not sure what you are looking at Mike. The K3 Assembly manual has
nothing about the fans on page 49. Testing the fans is covered on page 14 of
the KPA3 option manual, as follows: 

Press the POWER button to turn the K3 on. 

Hold CONFIG to select the Configuration menu, then turn VFO B to KPA3.

Turn the VFO A knob to PAIO ON, then turn it further to PAIO TST. When
moving between ON and TST, you should hear a relay click on the KPAIO3
board. If you don't, press the K3 POWER button to switch it off, then on
again and retry the test. 

Turn the VFO A knob on past TST to FN1, then FN2, FN3 and FN4. The fans
should start turning at FN1 and increase speed as you continue to FN4. 

73,

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I have checked out just fine up until the fan test on page 49 of the
assembly manual. I set the power control to above 11 watts now to edit the
PA menu I get to the point were the display on the k3 reads   PAON   If
I tap the display button I am not getting to the fan setup menu. I know I am
doing something wrong with button pushing or something but just not sure
what. In the manual it tells me to Edit the PA menu parameter I seem to be
tapping menu and then tapping display to get to the secondary menu but when
I get to PA I just can't get to the fan control options to do the fan test. 
Mike VE3WDM
http://ve3wdm.blogspot.com

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread James Sarte
I don't have the article in front of me at the moment, but I believe I read
that Yaesu was aware of the QSK relay issue and a circuit fix is available
for existing customers.  All future production units will have the fix
already implemented.

James K2QI

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 6:03 PM, Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.netwrote:

 I read and enjoyed the review.  It looks like a very good product, and will
 no doubt sell well - as it should.

 For me the only advantage it would have over my K3/P3 is the integrated 200
 W capability and integrated power supply with  12V power - both nice
 features.  But I wouldn't consider buying one, the deal breakers being:
 size/weight, audible QSK relay and single color panadapter w/o waterfall.
 Not to mention the more intangibles, such as ease of firmware updates and
 ability to do 80% of the servicing myself.  Close, but no cigar  ;)

 73  Craig  AC0DS






-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 fan test

2010-11-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Mike,

Use the Fluke.  You will have to measure about 1 amp.  Do it just like 
the manual says.  You will probably have to make several trials until 
you get it right.  The current rises quickly, and with a digital 
display, the first reading flashed is not valid, so wait until the 2nd 
or 3rd update from the Fluke.

Hint - if typical, the adjustment pot will end up at about 1/3 rotation 
from fully counter-clockwise.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/14/2010 5:58 PM, VE3WDM wrote:
 Thanks very much DonWeird thought that was what I was doing but seems
 not. I did as you said and all checked out with the fan speed just fine. Now
 it is on the the Bias currant adjustment going to use an DMM for this oneI
 have a Fluke that can be configured for 10 amps the other options is only
 400ma rated.
 Thanks Don
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread riese-k3djc
There's the rub

members of my local club were not overly interested in my K3 as it doesnt
have all the 
knobs etc on the front panel, you cant change the color of the display
and it isnt heavy
I really find that sad ,, I would get lost from time to time placing my
TS 850 in a unknown
state by accidently pushing a wrong button ,, hasnt happened on the K3
the GUI is great
but simple and some think simple relates to poor or ineffective
as I am a casual operator and dont use 1/10 the features avaible but
wanted a rig that would hold
up to some of the nasty krap on HF ,,, K3 Rocks,, was fun to build and
has great support

Bob K3DJC 

  


 Honestly, it looks like a great radio if you like a lot of knobs 
 and
 buttons.  I won't be buying an FTDX5000 anytime soon, as the K3 does 
 all of
 that and more at the fraction of the cost, size, and weight.  Plus, 
 Elecraft
 has in my opinion the best support in the industry.  For those 
 however that
 want a big rig, I think this is the one to beat.
 
 -- 
 73 de James K2QI

Become Six Sigma Certified
Villanova Six Sigma Certification 100% Online Program - Free Info.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ce06ccc49b0e5560bm03vuc
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Gary Gregory
OTOH, locals here are impressed with the receiver and what the K3 CAN do and
it's inbuilt versatility and great receiver.

Nobody seemed too concerned withthe lack of size, knobs, whistles, clicks
and bells etc offered with 'other' boxes.

If enough people took the time to 'LEARN' how to set up there own K3 such as
on SSB adjusting the Hi/Lo Cut then most would stop complaining about what
some term 'edgy' AF etc.

What constantly amazes me is the barrage of seemingly endless complaints
about some perceived limitation or design deficiency in the K3 when a little
more time spent in front of the K3 'learning' 'how' to use the K3 would
enhance their personal appreciation of a superb radio.

In Australia we live in a 'throw away' or 'trade-in' society due to lack of
manufacturing and I for one appreciate very much the amount of thought and
sweat that has gone into the production of the K3 and being badged Born in
the USA' is a very real factor in deciding what next I will 'acquire'.

Just about everything we turn over to look at the label states 'Made in
China' and whilst many good products come from Asia it is still terrific to
see a very well run company responsive to customer concerns without the
common response of 'send it back for replacement' or trade it in on the next
new 'box' being released to 'fix' the design or manufacturer faults created
at birth.

Oh well, turn of my mouth and sit and receive for awhile now:-)

Flame suit on and zipped up, air bag at the ready :-)

73's
Gary

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 11:11 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:

 There's the rub

 members of my local club were not overly interested in my K3 as it doesnt
 have all the
 knobs etc on the front panel, you cant change the color of the display
 and it isnt heavy
 I really find that sad ,, I would get lost from time to time placing my
 TS 850 in a unknown
 state by accidently pushing a wrong button ,, hasnt happened on the K3
 the GUI is great
 but simple and some think simple relates to poor or ineffective
 as I am a casual operator and dont use 1/10 the features avaible but
 wanted a rig that would hold
 up to some of the nasty krap on HF ,,, K3 Rocks,, was fun to build and
 has great support

 Bob K3DJC




  Honestly, it looks like a great radio if you like a lot of knobs
  and
  buttons.  I won't be buying an FTDX5000 anytime soon, as the K3 does
  all of
  that and more at the fraction of the cost, size, and weight.  Plus,
  Elecraft
  has in my opinion the best support in the industry.  For those
  however that
  want a big rig, I think this is the one to beat.
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
 
 Become Six Sigma Certified
 Villanova Six Sigma Certification 100% Online Program - Free Info.
 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ce06ccc49b0e5560bm03vuc
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-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/
K3 #679, P3 #546
For everything else there's Mastercard!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-14 Thread The Smiths

Hey guys, don't get me wrong. I never meant to say that James didn't do a 
wonderful job at trouble shooting than testing by shorting out the choke.  That 
wasn't my point at all.  I wasn't even meaning to comment on his work at all.  
Other than to say that he appears to be a very competent person for sure.  It 
seemed that he knew exactly where he was going, and seemed to get it done right.
 
What I was responding to was the other person that was trying to tell james 
that he shouldn't send his rig in because it would take MONTHS to get back.   
My point to that other person was it was wrong of him to make such a complaint 
unfounded, and that without knowing what the actual back log at Elecraft was. 
He really shouldn't be trying to 'scare' people like that.  
 
As for the board swap, I was just mentioning it as an option because I knew 
that James didn't want to be without his rig any longer than he needed to be. 
Plus I was confident that with a Kit rig like the K3 it wouldn't be any trouble 
for Elecraft to send another RF board because of a simple Choke that had been 
manufactured improperly.  Furthermore, as I just stated, I could clearly tell 
that James is perfectly capable of swapping a board after he's done all this 
work. To me as someone that repairs gear I would NEVER leave a choke shorted 
out just because it worked that way.. You never know what other problems your 
going to create for yourself later on.
Of course if James wants to replace the choke by itself that would be ideal.  
That would save him a lot of time disassembling the rig, and could fix his 
problem post haste.
 
I'm not sure where my message was read wrong.. But to answer your question as 
to whether or not I bought my rig as a kit, Yes, of course, as someone that 
repairs these rigs I would be a hypocrite if I hadn't built my own.. well, that 
or a very busy guy... LOL 73 both...
 
 
 
 

 
 From: r...@cobi.biz
 To: k2qi@gmail.com
 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 13:35:04 -0800
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
 
 You handled it just like I would, James, and I've repaired communications
 equipment, LF through microwave, professionally as well as built countless
 kits and scratch-built Ham rigs, many of my own design. 
 
 I don't know if the fellow behind The Smiths built his K3 from a kit, but
 you and I both know that replacing the RF board is a big job involving
 completely disassembling the K3 back to a kit except for the front panel
 assembly. I've done it. Time is required, just as with the original
 assembly. Rushing, while assuming one remembers exactly what to do, will
 certainly lead to time-consuming mistakes.
 
 RF chokes on leads leading outside the rig are for RF suppression - to keep
 RF in or, in this case, certainly to keep RF that might trigger the circuit
 out. 
 
 You'd know instantly if there was a problem. Your rig would key when you
 operated something else, or stick in transmit if it's own RF trigger the key
 line. 
 
 In your situation I'd replace the choke too, but if it were too difficult to
 get to, I'd add a similar value choke to points I could reach physically as
 close to the existing choke as possible. 
 
 73,
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte
 Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 12:54 PM
 To: The Smiths
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
 
 Well, time is always an issue for me. This weekend I was lucky as I didn't
 have to work. I was able to troubleshoot the radio and figure out what the
 problem was.
 
 I guess what I'm trying to say is, I'd rather take my chances replacing the
 choke myself then spend hours tearing the K3 apart, then putting it back
 together again, hoping that nothing else would be wrong with it once I'm
 done.
 
 I did put my K3 together as a kit, so I do have experience working on it...
 it's just not something I look forward to doing. In the little time I do
 have to play radio, I'd rather play than fix. :)
 
 73 de James K2QI
 
 On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:38 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 
  Of course if time is an issue, and it doesn't seem to be in this case as
  we've seen you trouble shoot, then soldering to repair, and once again
  jumping the choke to test with. Than in that case a person should send
  their rig in for repair.
 
 
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 Help: 

Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Wes Stewart
Not everything is made in China, I drive a car made in Australia.  
Unfortunately, the new management (the US government) decided to kill the brand 
(Pontiac). I'm an old guy driving a young person's performance car while in 
China, the young Chinese love our old folks' Buicks. It's a crazy world.


--- On Sun, 11/14/10, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:

Just about everything we turn over to look at the label states 'Made in
China' and whilst many good products come from Asia it is still terrific to
see a very well run company responsive to customer concerns without the
common response of 'send it back for replacement' or trade it in on the next
new 'box' being released to 'fix' the design or manufacturer faults created
at birth.




  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Bill W4ZV


Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
 
 I dunno, maybe I'm missing something, but I have always tuned the APF to 
 550 Hz, which is where my CW pitch is set, and find it works well 
 without tuning.  That's the way my TS-930's APF worked, and I always 
 found it very helpful even on moderate strength signals.
 

Pete I've had a TS-930S since 1984 (still works great) but I never found its
APF to be of much use.  In fact it became one of several functions (like FM,
AM and RIT) that never got the new worn off in some 12 years of daily use
(FT-1000MP in 1996).  I don't think any of the Kenwood or Icom APFs are in
the same league as the FT-1000's APF.  The 930 definitely did not have the
extremely narrow bandwidth/gain of the latter.  

I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
callers don't zero beat me that closely).  Will be interested to see if you
have the same opinion after you try APF in the K3.

73,  Bill

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5738666.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
A great many people purchase what they feel others will admire or that has
the correct look and feel based on their personal bias. Objective
performance of a rig may be nowhere near the top of their list of
decision-making criteria. 

A life-long home brewer, I've had other Hams tell me they'd never consider
building a rig from scratch because they do not have the money or resources
to make it look professional (i.e. factory-assembled). Sometimes it's not
even the Ham but the XYL who refuses to have anything in the house that
doesn't look right. (Shoot back in the 1950's and 60's Collins used to run
ads directed at XYLs telling them to insist 'hubby' get one of their rigs
because of its neat appearance on the desk!) 

Personally, I'm just happy if my creations work. 

We can never make everyone we know happy. The goal, I think, is to avoid
making others unhappy. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
There's the rub

members of my local club were not overly interested in my K3 as it doesnt
have all the 
knobs etc on the front panel, you cant change the color of the display
and it isnt heavy
I really find that sad ,, I would get lost from time to time placing my
TS 850 in a unknown
state by accidently pushing a wrong button ,, hasnt happened on the K3
the GUI is great
but simple and some think simple relates to poor or ineffective
as I am a casual operator and dont use 1/10 the features avaible but
wanted a rig that would hold
up to some of the nasty krap on HF ,,, K3 Rocks,, was fun to build and
has great support

Bob K3DJC 

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[Elecraft] Re: OT: QST's review of the Yae su FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Craig,

Is there a 'manual notch within AGC loop' in the FTDX5000?  I have not read the 
product review yet.

I trust 'manual notch within AGC loop' is a must in any high end transceiver.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net
收件人﹕ James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com; Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/15 (一) 7:03:33 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

I read and enjoyed the review.  It looks like a very good product, and will
no doubt sell well - as it should.

For me the only advantage it would have over my K3/P3 is the integrated 200
W capability and integrated power supply with  12V power - both nice
features.  But I wouldn't consider buying one, the deal breakers being:
size/weight, audible QSK relay and single color panadapter w/o waterfall.
Not to mention the more intangibles, such as ease of firmware updates and
ability to do 80% of the servicing myself.  Close, but no cigar  ;)

73  Craig  AC0DS


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Dale Parfitt

 Hi Bill,
 I can vouch for the fact that the APF on the IC-7700 was of no use. One 
would have thought that that might have been an item to be updated on a 
newer firmware version- but it never was at least as long as I owned the 
rig.
Dale W4OP

 Pete I've had a TS-930S since 1984 (still works great) but I never found 
 its
 APF to be of much use.  In fact it became one of several functions (like 
 FM,
 AM and RIT) that never got the new worn off in some 12 years of daily use
 (FT-1000MP in 1996).  I don't think any of the Kenwood or Icom APFs are in
 the same league as the FT-1000's APF.  The 930 definitely did not have the
 extremely narrow bandwidth/gain of the latter.

 I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
 careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
 callers don't zero beat me that closely).  Will be interested to see if 
 you
 have the same opinion after you try APF in the K3.

 73,  Bill

 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5738666.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Jim Brown
On 11/14/2010 4:23 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
 careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
 callers don't zero beat me that closely).

YES!  That's exactly what I'm talking about with respect to it being 
difficult for contest operation.

  Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread george fritkin
First I have 2)K3s and I highly respect and like the folks at Elecraft.  I 
agree with weight and size and knobs (thing about this... there are more 
knobs on the K3 than one might think), but the cost is not a great deal 
different when you option up the K3 to the same features as the 5K.  
Performance is probably a push, but Elecraft support rocks and that is the 
difference.  Their competitors will achieve comparable performance levels, but 
they will not duplicate Elecraft as a company
George, W6GF

--- On Sun, 11/14/10, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:

From: Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP
To: riese-k3...@juno.com
Cc: 
Date: Sunday, November 14, 2010, 3:25 PM

OTOH, locals here are impressed with the receiver and what the K3 CAN do and
it's inbuilt versatility and great receiver.

Nobody seemed too concerned withthe lack of size, knobs, whistles, clicks
and bells etc offered with 'other' boxes.

If enough people took the time to 'LEARN' how to set up there own K3 such as
on SSB adjusting the Hi/Lo Cut then most would stop complaining about what
some term 'edgy' AF etc.

What constantly amazes me is the barrage of seemingly endless complaints
about some perceived limitation or design deficiency in the K3 when a little
more time spent in front of the K3 'learning' 'how' to use the K3 would
enhance their personal appreciation of a superb radio.

In Australia we live in a 'throw away' or 'trade-in' society due to lack of
manufacturing and I for one appreciate very much the amount of thought and
sweat that has gone into the production of the K3 and being badged Born in
the USA' is a very real factor in deciding what next I will 'acquire'.

Just about everything we turn over to look at the label states 'Made in
China' and whilst many good products come from Asia it is still terrific to
see a very well run company responsive to customer concerns without the
common response of 'send it back for replacement' or trade it in on the next
new 'box' being released to 'fix' the design or manufacturer faults created
at birth.

Oh well, turn of my mouth and sit and receive for awhile now:-)

Flame suit on and zipped up, air bag at the ready :-)

73's
Gary

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 11:11 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:

 There's the rub

 members of my local club were not overly interested in my K3 as it doesnt
 have all the
 knobs etc on the front panel, you cant change the color of the display
 and it isnt heavy
 I really find that sad ,, I would get lost from time to time placing my
 TS 850 in a unknown
 state by accidently pushing a wrong button ,, hasnt happened on the K3
 the GUI is great
 but simple and some think simple relates to poor or ineffective
 as I am a casual operator and dont use 1/10 the features avaible but
 wanted a rig that would hold
 up to some of the nasty krap on HF ,,, K3 Rocks,, was fun to build and
 has great support

 Bob K3DJC




  Honestly, it looks like a great radio if you like a lot of knobs
  and
  buttons.  I won't be buying an FTDX5000 anytime soon, as the K3 does
  all of
  that and more at the fraction of the cost, size, and weight.  Plus,
  Elecraft
  has in my opinion the best support in the industry.  For those
  however that
  want a big rig, I think this is the one to beat.
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
 
 Become Six Sigma Certified
 Villanova Six Sigma Certification 100% Online Program - Free Info.
 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ce06ccc49b0e5560bm03vuc
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-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/
K3 #679, P3 #546
For everything else there's Mastercard!!!
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[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night!

2010-11-14 Thread NAQCC
NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night!

Our November sprint is this coming Wednesday evening local time which is 
Thursday 0130-0330Z time.

Please note your local time stays the same, but because of the switch back to 
Standard time, the UTC/Z time is different.

I will refer you to the proper URL:

http://home.windstream.net/yoel/sprint201011.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and also a special 
prize.

This month's Special Prize goes to the winner, to be decided by drawing among 
all who submit a valid log, gets a choice of paddle handles, straight key 
knobs, and/or K2 knob inserts donated by Gregg WB8LZG.

This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, 
straight key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); 
but you must use QRP power levels to compete for awards.

Come join us and have a real good time!

72/73 de Dave VA3RJ
NAQCC #0004

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread The Smiths

You don't have to wait for someone else to Zero Beat you Bill, that's why we 
have the RIT control on your rig. Maybe it's time you should discover that 
feature on the rig too...
 
 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 16:23:27 -0800
 From: btipp...@alum.mit.edu
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF
 
 
 
 Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
  
  I dunno, maybe I'm missing something, but I have always tuned the APF to 
  550 Hz, which is where my CW pitch is set, and find it works well 
  without tuning. That's the way my TS-930's APF worked, and I always 
  found it very helpful even on moderate strength signals.
  
 
 Pete I've had a TS-930S since 1984 (still works great) but I never found its
 APF to be of much use. In fact it became one of several functions (like FM,
 AM and RIT) that never got the new worn off in some 12 years of daily use
 (FT-1000MP in 1996). I don't think any of the Kenwood or Icom APFs are in
 the same league as the FT-1000's APF. The 930 definitely did not have the
 extremely narrow bandwidth/gain of the latter. 
 
 I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
 careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
 callers don't zero beat me that closely). Will be interested to see if you
 have the same opinion after you try APF in the K3.
 
 73, Bill
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5738666.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: OT: QST's review of the Yae su FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread N1JM

One of my pet peeves of the K3 is the notch is not within the agc loop and
yes I know it's not good for IMD but so what. It's not engaged all the time.
The other is excessive birdies which the 5000 does not hardly have any.

John N1JM


Johnny Siu wrote:
 
 Hello Craig,
 
 Is there a 'manual notch within AGC loop' in the FTDX5000?  I have not
 read the 
 product review yet.
 
 I trust 'manual notch within AGC loop' is a must in any high end
 transceiver.
  cheers, 
 
 
 Johnny VR2XMC 
 
 
 
 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net
 收件人﹕ James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com; Joe Subich, W4TV
 li...@subich.com
 副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/15 (一) 7:03:33 AM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP
 
 I read and enjoyed the review.  It looks like a very good product, and
 will
 no doubt sell well - as it should.
 
 For me the only advantage it would have over my K3/P3 is the integrated
 200
 W capability and integrated power supply with  12V power - both nice
 features.  But I wouldn't consider buying one, the deal breakers being:
 size/weight, audible QSK relay and single color panadapter w/o waterfall.
 Not to mention the more intangibles, such as ease of firmware updates and
 ability to do 80% of the servicing myself.  Close, but no cigar  ;)
 
 73  Craig  AC0DS
 
 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Bill Tippett
On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 8:49 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:

 You don't have to wait for someone else to Zero Beat you Bill, that's
 why we have the RIT control on your rig. Maybe it's time you should discover
 that feature on the rig too...


:-))  I was responding to Pete's comment on works well without tuning.
APF is not usable without tuning unless everyone is zero beat within 5-10
Hz.

I guess I need to learn how to use radios.  In 53 years on the air, Honor
Roll at age 19 (before packet and lists), world high DXCC (331) on 160, all
6 current USA records on 10m (CQ WW, ARRL DX and CQ WPX, both modes), you'd
think I'd have discovered RIT by now.

In fact I never use RIT because I prefer the big VFO knob.  I operate split
even when in transceive so I never touch that dinky RIT knob.  But then what
do I know?  ;-)

73,  Bill  W4ZV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Pete Smith
I've got to agree with The Smiths (whoever they are) on this one, Bill - 
the only thing I was trying to point out was that you don't need to find 
yourself to the Shift knob to move the APF around, if you tune it to the 
same point as your IF filter peak and tune with your RIT or the main tuning.

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 11/14/2010 8:49 PM, The Smiths wrote:
 You don't have to wait for someone else to Zero Beat you Bill, that's why we 
 have the RIT control on your rig. Maybe it's time you should discover that 
 feature on the rig too...

 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 16:23:27 -0800
 From: btipp...@alum.mit.edu
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF



 Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
 I dunno, maybe I'm missing something, but I have always tuned the APF to
 550 Hz, which is where my CW pitch is set, and find it works well
 without tuning. That's the way my TS-930's APF worked, and I always
 found it very helpful even on moderate strength signals.

 Pete I've had a TS-930S since 1984 (still works great) but I never found its
 APF to be of much use. In fact it became one of several functions (like FM,
 AM and RIT) that never got the new worn off in some 12 years of daily use
 (FT-1000MP in 1996). I don't think any of the Kenwood or Icom APFs are in
 the same league as the FT-1000's APF. The 930 definitely did not have the
 extremely narrow bandwidth/gain of the latter.

 I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
 careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
 callers don't zero beat me that closely). Will be interested to see if you
 have the same opinion after you try APF in the K3.

 73, Bill

 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5738666.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Robert Harmon
I was thinking the same thing, I use the RIT all the time.

Bob
K6UJ


On Nov 14, 2010, at 6:06 PM, Bill Tippett wrote:

 On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 8:49 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 You don't have to wait for someone else to Zero Beat you Bill, that's
 why we have the RIT control on your rig. Maybe it's time you should discover
 that feature on the rig too...
 
 
 :-))  I was responding to Pete's comment on works well without tuning.
 APF is not usable without tuning unless everyone is zero beat within 5-10
 Hz.
 
 I guess I need to learn how to use radios.  In 53 years on the air, Honor
 Roll at age 19 (before packet and lists), world high DXCC (331) on 160, all
 6 current USA records on 10m (CQ WW, ARRL DX and CQ WPX, both modes), you'd
 think I'd have discovered RIT by now.
 
 In fact I never use RIT because I prefer the big VFO knob.  I operate split
 even when in transceive so I never touch that dinky RIT knob.  But then what
 do I know?  ;-)
 
 73,  Bill  W4ZV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Lee Buller


On 11/14/2010 4:23 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
 careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
 callers don't zero beat me that closely).

YES!  That's exactly what I'm talking about with respect to it being 
difficult for contest operation.

  Jim

The best filter or audio device ever made is between your ears...including your 
ears.  Amazing piece of work.
As I grow older (Rats!), I've had to have some help with digital hearing aids 
and good radios like the K3.  Makes
things easierbut the best filter I've found is your brain!  APF is good, 
but 
the good CW ops use a lot of
biological filtering.

Lee - K0WA
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-14 Thread Greg Beat
Bob -

IF you are looking for ANY Weller parts, contact me -- I will be happy to 
help or just advise.
Read the eHam.net forum and ASK questions HERE, OR send me a personal 
e-mail.

So tidbits, not yet mentioned.

1. The Weller WLC100 (orange station) is an OEM light dimmer and ungrounded 
iron.
NOT ESD, Grounded or Temperature controlled.
I do not recommend for Elecraft K1 or K2 builders.

2. The Haako 936-12 while widely popular (and copied/clones by every mfg. in 
China) -- 
has been discontinued by Haako earlier this year!
http://www.hakko.com/english/discontinue/index.html

It has been replaced by the new Haako FX-888
http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888.html

3. The Weller WES-51 and WESD-51 are very good stations and use the same ET 
tips that
were used with the Weller EC series (1975-2002)

4. Aouye is one of the better known Haako clone makers from China.
The Chinese ceramic heaters are not as good as the Japanese original product 
from Haako
(The Chinese have yet to perfect quality control at Japanese levels -- so 
keep that in mind if you purchase that route).

I have a demo WSD81 soldering station (WSP80 iron) with the hard to find 
base programmer that I would like to
pass on to an Elecraft builder.

IF you have a broken Weller unit, I do have documentation and parts for the 
older TCP units
(e.g. SFA-1 springs and funnels for original PU-1 units) -- documentation 
can be found on BAMA from my library.

Lastly, in 1957 Carl Weller, founder of Weller Electric wrote in his US 
Patent application the foundation and definition for temperature controlled
soldering.  It is freely available US document for any citizen to read and 
understand.
For the Metcal/OKI crowd -- the OKI stations are based upon Carl's Magnetic 
Switch (Magnistat) works and acknowledges his 3 patents in
their products as well as an earlier 1905 US patent for induction heating - 
the foundation for their RF/induction tip heating method.

Greg
w9gb

- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: riese-k3...@juno.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station


 The Weller WES51 and the Aoyue 937 were both highly recommended (I don't
 have experience with either. I use a Hakko 936, also an excellent 
 soldering
 station). The Hakko has a grounded tip. I don't know whether the others 
 are
 isolated or grounded.

 I note that Amazon.com has a sale going on featuring the WES51 and Aoyue
 937. Don't know how competitive the prices are overall - I didn't check
 other sites.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-

 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC


 

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[Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Johnny Siu
Hi John,

Excessive  birdies in K3 will consume a lot of the DSP power in eliminating 
them.  I would think the DSP power should be used / reserved for other 
meaningful radio functions.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ N1JM johnn...@gmail.com
收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/15 (一) 10:05:24 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Re: OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP


One of my pet peeves of the K3 is the notch is not within the agc loop and
yes I know it's not good for IMD but so what. It's not engaged all the time.
The other is excessive birdies which the 5000 does not hardly have any.

John N1JM


Johnny Siu wrote:
 
 Hello Craig,
 
 Is there a 'manual notch within AGC loop' in the FTDX5000?  I have not
 read the 
 product review yet.
 
 I trust 'manual notch within AGC loop' is a must in any high end
 transceiver.
  cheers, 
 
 
 Johnny VR2XMC 
 
 
 
 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net
 收件人﹕ James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com; Joe Subich, W4TV
 li...@subich.com
 副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/15 (一) 7:03:33 AM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP
 
 I read and enjoyed the review.  It looks like a very good product, and
 will
 no doubt sell well - as it should.
 
 For me the only advantage it would have over my K3/P3 is the integrated
 200
 W capability and integrated power supply with  12V power - both nice
 features.  But I wouldn't consider buying one, the deal breakers being:
 size/weight, audible QSK relay and single color panadapter w/o waterfall.
 Not to mention the more intangibles, such as ease of firmware updates and
 ability to do 80% of the servicing myself.  Close, but no cigar  ;)
 
 73  Craig  AC0DS
 
 
      
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Igor Kosvin
I beg to differ. The TS-930S APF works pretty good in combination with
narrow (500Hz) set of filters in 2nd and 3rd IF. The problematic part is
that as far as I recall in TS-930s the APF is in AF, which is little too
late to correct other shortcomings of the receiver.

73,
Igor  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 7:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF



Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
 
 I dunno, maybe I'm missing something, but I have always tuned the APF to 
 550 Hz, which is where my CW pitch is set, and find it works well 
 without tuning.  That's the way my TS-930's APF worked, and I always 
 found it very helpful even on moderate strength signals.
 

Pete I've had a TS-930S since 1984 (still works great) but I never found its
APF to be of much use.  In fact it became one of several functions (like FM,
AM and RIT) that never got the new worn off in some 12 years of daily use
(FT-1000MP in 1996).  I don't think any of the Kenwood or Icom APFs are in
the same league as the FT-1000's APF.  The 930 definitely did not have the
extremely narrow bandwidth/gain of the latter.  

I don't know if you've used the K3's APF yet but it definitely needs very
careful tuning to work right (i.e. within 5 Hz of a signal peak...and most
callers don't zero beat me that closely).  Will be interested to see if you
have the same opinion after you try APF in the K3.

73,  Bill

-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-14 Thread Bill W4ZV


Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
 
 I've got to agree with The Smiths (whoever they are) on this one, Bill - 
 the only thing I was trying to point out was that you don't need to find 
 yourself to the Shift knob to move the APF around, if you tune it to the 
 same point as your IF filter peak and tune with your RIT or the main
 tuning.
 

Pete I'm repeating myself but...if you tune the K3 in its normal VFO mode
(not FINE) it tunes in 10 Hz steps.  For extremely weak signals (for which
APF is intended) you'll give up 1+ dB by not being able to peak signals that
fall between the 10 Hz steps.  For a signal at or below the noise floor, 1
dB can be the difference between copy and not.  This is why Wayne went to 5
Hz steps instead of 10 Hz in the latest APF implementation.  Of course you
can also switch the VFO to FINE and tune in 1 Hz steps (which is what I did
prior to the 5 Hz SHIFT mod) but 1 Hz is really overkill (...and slow).

Regarding AF TUNE (...not APF) in the TS-930S, it's simply a tunable 3-pole
active filter.  It has NO gain and must be in the order of 80-100 Hz BW. 
Contrast that to the 30 Hz BW and 9 dB gain APF in the K3.  I'd liken AF
TUNE in the 930 to the original focus/context filter (DUAL PB for CW) in the
K3 (which IMHO is not as useful as APF).  

73,  Bill
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (11-14-10)

2010-11-14 Thread Phillip Shepard
Conditions seemed good this week.  I could hear most everyone from here in
Oregon, including KL7UW and ZL1PWD, both well off of my quad's front lobe.
We had 34 participants over a 29 minute net. Discussions involved K8DD (SK),
TX equalization for a Heil mic and what the blank spots on the back of the
P3 are for. Thanks to everyone who checked in.  Here is the list of
participants.

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

WB6CLZ  MikeCA  K3  4522
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K3  185
W6GFGeorge  CA  K3  4631
W0NTA   DickCO  K3  1208
W5ETJ   GaryTX  K3  3227
NZ0TBillKS  K3  1502
N0YBLarry   IA  K3  3435
NF8JPaulMI  K3  758
N1OXA   IvanME  K3  4538
W0CZKen ND  K3  457
K1BBM   JohnMA  K3  2579
K5LAD   Jim OK  K3  1068
AC0NM   Glenn   GA  K3  2843
W0BUW   BoydOK  K3  4864
K8JRM   Tom OK  K3  2936
AE6IC   FredCA  K3  2241
KD1TH   PaulNH  K3  4882
K6DSW   Don CA  K3  3138
KA1OZ   DickMA  K3  859
K8EAG   Gil MI  K3  99
AI4VZ   George  GA  K3  2412
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
W7RBB   RichWA  K3  4786
NT5QDon NM  K3  4179
KL7UW   Ed  AK  K3  4043
W7WPZ   Jay AZ  TS480
KE5MO   Larry   TX  K3  4499
W5IAY   RichNM  Swan 350
K7PEH   PhilWA  K3  3799
K2XTRickNJ  K3  3814
W8YMO   Harry   OH  IC7800
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,

Phil, NS7P


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for November 14th 15th, 2010

2010-11-14 Thread Kevin

Good Evening,
It was fun to get back on the air again after the long hiatus.  I have  
been busy with computer work so have not gotten on my radio on a regular  
basis in almost two weeks.  I am sure you could tell ;)  Conditions on  
twenty meters were OK but the noise was high on my end.  Forty meters was  
much better except for a little QSB and one spot of noise.
Weather was grey and soggy here with a temperature around 40 degrees.   
Minnesota got its share of snow a bit early this year with about a foot of  
it.  May not last so get your XC skiing in quickly so you'll be ready for  
the next snowfall.  I wish it snowed more often here but I am too close to  
the ocean for it to stick all that often.

On to the lists =

   On 14049.5 kHz at 2300z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
KS4L - Randy - AL - K2 - 337
K1THP - Dave - CT - K2 - 3942
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
WB5BKL - Nick - TX - K3 - 231
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392

   On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K1THP - Dave - CT - K2 - 3942
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
W6SU - John - CA - K2 - 228
WI6O - John - CA - K1 - 922
NK6A - Don - CA - K3 - 3569
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866

   Hopefully conditions will continue to improve as the season progresses.   
I know the sun is getting back into action.  With my house in flux I am  
unsure of where my radio gear will wind up.  Luckily there are a couple  
ground rods and few access points for antennas.  Where I am sitting would  
be nice though a bit cramped.  I need to add some shelving and some more  
lights.  It would be nice to sit next to the fire during the winter months  
but next summer the open windows of the back room will be better.

Until next week stay well,
   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-14 Thread Gary Gregory
Aaah, the humble Holden Commodore. Yes it IS a great car (not a Ford) made
by GM of course.

Have a look at the website for HSV Commodore and you will see the Oz version
of the Pontiac. Awesome cars.

There are few consumer products made here now which is sad but as we only
have some 22 million people here I guess the price of production makes it
all uneconomical to produce...:-(

Elecraft are quite amazing in both their ability to design and manufacturer
a leading contender (if not the best which it is in my personal opinion) HAM
radio transceiver available. Gee, look at what the dealers are asking for an
FT-5000 here and the K3 is by far a better solution. Yaesu still like to
have expensive add-ons to sell and to my way of thinking they do not give me
good value for money.

There service here is legendary...or if you like plain talk...lousy, slow,
expensive and uncommunicative...sorry Eric, that is an honest opinion and I
don't wish to start a kerfuffle on the reflector, but, as I was previously a
Yaesu Dealer I feel I have a right to be critical without denigrating
anyone..:-)

With advent of the KPA-500 and shortly thereafter the KAT-500?...my needs
will be filled and I don't want any of you guys telling Elecraft to build a
K4 coz I aint got room for one and don't want to feel left out...:-)

OK, back in my hole I go

73' to all
Elecraft Rocks...now who stole my Kool-Aid?

Gary

On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 3:00 AM, Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk wrote:

 Hi John,

 Excessive  birdies in K3 will consume a lot of the DSP power in eliminating
 them.  I would think the DSP power should be used / reserved for other
 meaningful radio functions.
  cheers,


 Johnny VR2XMC



 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ N1JM johnn...@gmail.com
 收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/15 (一) 10:05:24 AM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] Re: OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP


 One of my pet peeves of the K3 is the notch is not within the agc loop and
 yes I know it's not good for IMD but so what. It's not engaged all the
 time.
 The other is excessive birdies which the 5000 does not hardly have any.

 John N1JM


 Johnny Siu wrote:
 
  Hello Craig,
 
  Is there a 'manual notch within AGC loop' in the FTDX5000?  I have not
  read the
  product review yet.
 
  I trust 'manual notch within AGC loop' is a must in any high end
  transceiver.
   cheers,
 
 
  Johnny VR2XMC
 
 
 
  - 郵件原件 
  寄件人﹕ Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net
  收件人﹕ James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com; Joe Subich, W4TV
  li...@subich.com
  副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/15 (一) 7:03:33 AM
  主題: Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP
 
  I read and enjoyed the review.  It looks like a very good product, and
  will
  no doubt sell well - as it should.
 
  For me the only advantage it would have over my K3/P3 is the integrated
  200
  W capability and integrated power supply with  12V power - both nice
  features.  But I wouldn't consider buying one, the deal breakers being:
  size/weight, audible QSK relay and single color panadapter w/o waterfall.
  Not to mention the more intangibles, such as ease of firmware updates and
  ability to do 80% of the servicing myself.  Close, but no cigar  ;)
 
  73  Craig  AC0DS
 
 
 
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-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/
K3 #679, P3 #546
For everything else there's Mastercard!!!
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