Re: [Elecraft] propagation

[Geoff Wolf]

I can mirror your statements.

Over here in Pennsylvania, we've been seeing the same occurrence of rather
rare Asian DX popping up. I'm a regular member up at K3MJW, the Skyview
Radio Society (http://www.skyviewradio.net).

Over the past two weeks, we've heard the following countries between 20 and
15 meters (mostly 20):

China
Hong Kong
Asiatic Russia
South Korea
Vietnam
Cambodia
India
Bangladesh
Mauritius
Madagascar
Lots of Australia
New Zealand
United Arab Emirates (2 stations)
Qatar
Kuwait (S9+40dB)
Galapagos
The Falklands
Egypt
Libya (not sure if this was a pirate or not HI HI)
Taiwan

And lots of other 'local' stuff.

The bands have really been shaping up lately. I can't wait to see if we get
some decent 10 and 6 meter openings mid-summer (Field Day possibly??). Time
to work some DX mobile on 6.

-
Geoffrey Wolf
AB3LS ­ Amateur Radio Callsign
University of Pittsburgh '14
gr...@pitt.edu
liltechd...@me.com
(412) 450 - 1310 





On 4/16/11 11:15 PM, "Tony Estep" mailto:estept...@gmail.com> > wrote:

> I know this isn't directly elecraft related, but propagation affects
> everything -- anyway, it's 10 p.m here and I can hear Hawaii, Vietnam,
> Russia, and South America all within a few Khz on 15 meters! Bring back the
> good ole days!
> 
> Tony KT0NY
> 
> 
> "We don't want every single college grad with mathematical aptitude to
> become a derivatives trader." -- Barack Obama
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[Elecraft] K3 - 3 questions about memories

[Pierfrancesco Caci]

Let's try again, now that other threads seem a bit quieter.

And I also have a third question: 
I can't find anywhere in the programmer manual how to actually read the
content of the memory slots, is there a direct command to do this at
all or the only option is to issue M>V and V>M commands and read the VFOs?



> Hello,

> If I use memories 0-9 as quick band access, can they
> still be used as band edges for scan?

> Did anyone get around writing something to
> dump/restore memory content under linux ?


-- 
Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 power supply

[Matt Zilmer]

Set it under TX full power load at the K3 APP terminals, measured
using an external voltmeter known to be accurate.  Just probe into the
APP backshells with the DVM probes.

I use 14.2 at full load.  RX voltage is then 14.5V.  This provides
some margin for the power supply going bat$#!+.  The situation here,
though, is safer than most because it's solar-powered going through a
separate charge controller into a battery.  The battery feeds the K3
through a TGE boost regulator.

Recommend the TGE regulator for K3 ops.  It is extremely robust.

matt W6NIA
K3 #24

==

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 22:40:47 -0500, you wrote:

>So...If I were to tweak the power supply voltage should I use the K3 
>internal voltmeter or an external one?  If an external one, I assume 
>connected at the DC input to the K3 to compensate for any voltage drop.
>
>Also, should I set the voltage under load/while transmitting?  I guess 
>that would depend on how good the voltage regulation is?
>
>On 4/12/2011 10:02 AM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
>> VK5ABQ wrote:
>>> 1. The LCL300PS12 can provide 25A and has an adjustable output range of
>>> 11.0 to 13.0V. Is this suitable for the K3/100? XP Power’s 12.5 to 14.5V
>>> model isn’t available here.
>>>
>> If you operate SSB at full power, I'd recommend at least 13.8V and
>> preferably higher.  The K3 is specified up to 15V and exhibits better TX IMD
>> performance at higher voltages.  I set my Astron RS-35M for 14.5V at the K3
>> terminals.
>>
>> 73,  Bill
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-100-power-supply-tp6264879p6265496.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] propagation

[Fred Jensen]

On 4/16/2011 8:15 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
> I know this isn't directly elecraft related, but propagation affects
> everything -- anyway, it's 10 p.m here and I can hear Hawaii, Vietnam,
> Russia, and South America all within a few Khz on 15 meters! Bring back the
> good ole days!

Not so cool out here in on the Colonial Western Frontier Tony.  EU has 
been "there" but weak today, not much else.  It's 2115 here, and 15 is 
deadsville, so is 20 except for about 3 weak SA's.  They're far east of 
us, they'll hit the rack soon.

Propagation is sooo magic.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 power supply

[Gary K9GS]

So...If I were to tweak the power supply voltage should I use the K3 
internal voltmeter or an external one?  If an external one, I assume 
connected at the DC input to the K3 to compensate for any voltage drop.

Also, should I set the voltage under load/while transmitting?  I guess 
that would depend on how good the voltage regulation is?

On 4/12/2011 10:02 AM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
> VK5ABQ wrote:
>> 1. The LCL300PS12 can provide 25A and has an adjustable output range of
>> 11.0 to 13.0V. Is this suitable for the K3/100? XP Power’s 12.5 to 14.5V
>> model isn’t available here.
>>
> If you operate SSB at full power, I'd recommend at least 13.8V and
> preferably higher.  The K3 is specified up to 15V and exhibits better TX IMD
> performance at higher voltages.  I set my Astron RS-35M for 14.5V at the K3
> terminals.
>
> 73,  Bill
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-100-power-supply-tp6264879p6265496.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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-- 


73,

Gary K9GS

Check out K9NS on the web:  http://www.k9ns.com
Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com



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[Elecraft] k2

[JAMES DAVIDSON]

tx don  and the rest of you guys and gals  thanks a bunch .put the new diodes 
in 
the atu.bingo works great!!!  now getting ready to learn abt the kaf2 clock . 
this rec. is one of the best i have ever had . ic7000 &new jupiter 538 on the 
desk and this is rite in there with them  jim kc0dd
 

little radios big radios

1000s $ of radios all set at QRP

am i doing this rite hi! kc0dd

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
After three days of snow today turned better.  A little sun but still  
cold.  I have heard that spring has arrived in other areas but it's not  
yet here.  It did warm up to 52 one day and I heard the local frogs  
awaken.  Then right back to cold and frost.  Luckily my wood pile is still  
very large.  No problems heating the house.

Propagation was alright this week but with all the solar activity there  
were times when the noise was high and QSB drove signals all over the  
place.  Those of you with diversity reception set up must get a little  
dizzy during these times.  Signals jumping from one ear to the other and  
back again.  One day I hope to try that.  First I need to set up a few  
more antennas so I can at least switch between them manually.  I think a  
very large loop would be good.  I want something which will work well on  
160 meters.  The tuner can then allow me to work the higher bands too.

If anyone is interested in acting as a relay station on either net  
please email me.  I will turn the net over to you for a few minutes so you  
can call areas in my skip zone.  It sure would prove helpful to those I  
cannot reach directly.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP  help)

Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday z (Sunday 5 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

Stay well,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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[Elecraft] propagation

[Tony Estep]

I know this isn't directly elecraft related, but propagation affects
everything -- anyway, it's 10 p.m here and I can hear Hawaii, Vietnam,
Russia, and South America all within a few Khz on 15 meters! Bring back the
good ole days!

Tony KT0NY


-- 
"We don't want every single college grad with mathematical aptitude to
become a derivatives trader." -- Barack Obama
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 serial interface debug

[Don Wilhelm]

  Casey,

The first thing to do is swap the cables - you may have a wiring problem 
with the K2 serial cable.

If the cable is not the problem, tell me if you are dealing with a KIO2 
option in a 10 watt K2 or the equivalent in a KPA100 and I can give you 
some DC tests to perform.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2011 9:10 PM, TI2/NA7U wrote:
> I have two K2s (one for casual, one for dress . Both have the serial I/O
> unit. One works fine the other not so much. The one with the problem is not
> working with Fldigi (using any of the CAT interfaces). No commands appear to
> be flowing in either direction. I actually don't know if the serial I/O ever
> worked on that K2 as this is the first time I've tried it.
>
> Can someone just give me a debug strategy and some tips to help diagnose it?
> TIA
>
> 73,
>
> Casey, TI2/NA7U
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board booboo?

[Don Wilhelm]

  Wayne,

For the sake of neatness, you can heat the solder pad and put it down 
onto the board, but since all the connections are intact (I could not 
see a trace in the image going away from that pad on the top side of the 
board), it does not matter - the solder pad on the top of the board is 
only a "place holder" that makes no connection on that side.  Solder 
pads that have no traces leaving from them are especially easy to lift 
if too much heat is applied (but that does not usually happen if there 
are traces leaving the pad on that side).  Turn your iron temperature 
down a bit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2011 9:42 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> Don, Thank you.  And thanks also to Alan Price and Bill Coleman for 
> their help off the list.
>
> You're right that it's R12 and not R18.  Good catch.
>
> Both sides of the "booboo" resistor have continuity to the appropriate 
> places.  On the side with the lifted pad,  to P2/10 and P4/10.  On the 
> other side, U6/2.
>
> Would it be a good idea to reheat the solder and push the pad down?
>
> I will turn the iron down in any case.
>
> Wayne Conrad
>
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[Elecraft] Fw: [K2] Control board booboo?

[John Cooper]

-Original Message- 
From: John Cooper
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 8:50 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board booboo?

Oh don’t forget to tin your iron tip every time and wipe off the excess
before you solder the component, you want a nice shiny tip that will
transfer the heat otherwise you have to hold it their a long time I have
lifted traces like that but it was because the tip was dirty and took a lil
too long to melt the solder or I was using a throw away plug in iron.

WT5Y

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 8:33 PM
To: Wayne Conrad
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board booboo?

  Sorry, I got the subjects mixed up - ignore the subject line on my
last post,  The proper subject is in this post and the text is copied
below.  Sorry for the excessive bandwidth and any confusion I caused.
--
Wayne,

It looks like somehow the plated thru-hole was damaged somehow - that is
unusual, but you proved it can happen.  From your photo location, It
looks to be R12 instead of R18.  R12 is an 820 ohm resistor, R18 is just
a jumper wire.

Looking at Tom Hammond's board images (available for download at
www.n0ss.net), that you are OK - solder it on the bottom side (same side
the resistor is located).

Just to make sure the entire network is intact, after soldering it (on
the bottom side), use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from that
lead to P2 pin 10, P4 pin 10, and the non-grounded side of C11 - put one
lead on R12 and the other lead on the points mentioned.

Just for completeness, check the other side of the resistor too - it
should show continuity to U6 pin 2.

If all those checks are OK, then you are "good to go" - if any of them
fail, you can use wire to connect the points that have no continuity -
all is not lost, it can be repaired.

If that solder pad lifted by just inserting the resistor lead, then the
thru-plated hole may have been defective (very unusual), but if the pad
lifted when you attempted to solder it, take note and turn your
soldering iron temperature down, it was too hot.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 4/16/2011 8:00 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> Please see this picture:
>
>   http://yagni.com/ephemera/k2/control_board_booboo.jpg
>
> I've just soldered R18, which is on the back of the K2 control board.
> This picture is of the front of the board.  Right in the middle of the
> picture is one of R18's leads, and encircling that lead, a tilted white
> ring that looks like what was on the board, encircling the hole, before
> I started soldering.  It has lifted off of the board, buoyed by the
> solder, and is sitting there like a winning ring-toss.
>
> What is it?  Is it bad?  What do I do now?
>
> Best Regards,
> Wayne Conrad
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board booboo?

[Wayne Conrad]

Don, Thank you.  And thanks also to Alan Price and Bill Coleman for 
their help off the list.

You're right that it's R12 and not R18.  Good catch.

Both sides of the "booboo" resistor have continuity to the appropriate 
places.  On the side with the lifted pad,  to P2/10 and P4/10.  On the 
other side, U6/2.

Would it be a good idea to reheat the solder and push the pad down?

I will turn the iron down in any case.

Wayne Conrad

On 04/16/2011 06:33 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>  Sorry, I got the subjects mixed up - ignore the subject line on my 
> last post,  The proper subject is in this post and the text is copied 
> below.  Sorry for the excessive bandwidth and any confusion I caused.
> --
>  
>
> Wayne,
>
> It looks like somehow the plated thru-hole was damaged somehow - that 
> is unusual, but you proved it can happen.  From your photo location, 
> It looks to be R12 instead of R18.  R12 is an 820 ohm resistor, R18 is 
> just a jumper wire.
>
> Looking at Tom Hammond's board images (available for download at 
> www.n0ss.net), that you are OK - solder it on the bottom side (same 
> side the resistor is located).
>
> Just to make sure the entire network is intact, after soldering it (on 
> the bottom side), use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from that 
> lead to P2 pin 10, P4 pin 10, and the non-grounded side of C11 - put 
> one lead on R12 and the other lead on the points mentioned.
>
> Just for completeness, check the other side of the resistor too - it 
> should show continuity to U6 pin 2.
>
> If all those checks are OK, then you are "good to go" - if any of them 
> fail, you can use wire to connect the points that have no continuity - 
> all is not lost, it can be repaired.
>
> If that solder pad lifted by just inserting the resistor lead, then 
> the thru-plated hole may have been defective (very unusual), but if 
> the pad lifted when you attempted to solder it, take note and turn 
> your soldering iron temperature down, it was too hot.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
>
> On 4/16/2011 8:00 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
>> Please see this picture:
>>
>>   http://yagni.com/ephemera/k2/control_board_booboo.jpg
>>
>> I've just soldered R18, which is on the back of the K2 control board.
>> This picture is of the front of the board.  Right in the middle of the
>> picture is one of R18's leads, and encircling that lead, a tilted white
>> ring that looks like what was on the board, encircling the hole, before
>> I started soldering.  It has lifted off of the board, buoyed by the
>> solder, and is sitting there like a winning ring-toss.
>>
>> What is it?  Is it bad?  What do I do now?
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Wayne Conrad
>>
>>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board booboo?

[Don Wilhelm]

  Sorry, I got the subjects mixed up - ignore the subject line on my 
last post,  The proper subject is in this post and the text is copied 
below.  Sorry for the excessive bandwidth and any confusion I caused.
--
Wayne,

It looks like somehow the plated thru-hole was damaged somehow - that is 
unusual, but you proved it can happen.  From your photo location, It 
looks to be R12 instead of R18.  R12 is an 820 ohm resistor, R18 is just 
a jumper wire.

Looking at Tom Hammond's board images (available for download at 
www.n0ss.net), that you are OK - solder it on the bottom side (same side 
the resistor is located).

Just to make sure the entire network is intact, after soldering it (on 
the bottom side), use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from that 
lead to P2 pin 10, P4 pin 10, and the non-grounded side of C11 - put one 
lead on R12 and the other lead on the points mentioned.

Just for completeness, check the other side of the resistor too - it 
should show continuity to U6 pin 2.

If all those checks are OK, then you are "good to go" - if any of them 
fail, you can use wire to connect the points that have no continuity - 
all is not lost, it can be repaired.

If that solder pad lifted by just inserting the resistor lead, then the 
thru-plated hole may have been defective (very unusual), but if the pad 
lifted when you attempted to solder it, take note and turn your 
soldering iron temperature down, it was too hot.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 4/16/2011 8:00 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> Please see this picture:
>
>   http://yagni.com/ephemera/k2/control_board_booboo.jpg
>
> I've just soldered R18, which is on the back of the K2 control board.
> This picture is of the front of the board.  Right in the middle of the
> picture is one of R18's leads, and encircling that lead, a tilted white
> ring that looks like what was on the board, encircling the hole, before
> I started soldering.  It has lifted off of the board, buoyed by the
> solder, and is sitting there like a winning ring-toss.
>
> What is it?  Is it bad?  What do I do now?
>
> Best Regards,
> Wayne Conrad
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2

[Don Wilhelm]

  Wayne,

It looks like somehow the plated thru-hole was damaged somehow - that is 
unusual, but you proved it can happen.  From your photo location, It 
looks to be R12 instead of R18.  R12 is an 820 ohm resistor, R18 is just 
a jumper wire.

Looking at Tom Hammond's board images (available for download at 
www.n0ss.net), that you are OK - solder it on the bottom side (same side 
the resistor is located).

Just to make sure the entire network is intact, after soldering it (on 
the bottom side), use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from that 
lead to P2 pin 10, P4 pin 10, and the non-grounded side of C11 - put one 
lead on R12 and the other lead on the points mentioned.

Just for completeness, check the other side of the resistor too - it 
should show continuity to U6 pin 2.

If all those checks are OK, then you are "good to go" - if any of them 
fail, you can use wire to connect the points that have no continuity - 
all is not lost, it can be repaired.

If that solder pad lifted by just inserting the resistor lead, then the 
thru-plated hole may have been defective (very unusual), but if the pad 
lifted when you attempted to solder it, take note and turn your 
soldering iron temperature down, it was too hot.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2011 2:46 PM, Tom & Martha wrote:
> Hello Don,
> Recently I've decided to purchase a K2 in lieu of the K3. I'm pretty 
> much just a cw and weak signal buff tending
> to work dx and participating in a few contests, I'm an active member 
> of the SKCC (Straight Key Century Club).
> I mostly do my logging manually but would like to learn about logging 
> via rig/computer control and the K2 should fit the bill.
> For many years my rig has been a TS830S but recently acquired a TS180S 
> to play with and REALLY like it's solid state
> (very little) tuningguess I'm getting lazy in my old age (70)!
> Anyway, my question ishow much do you charge to assemble a bare 
> bones K2? Later, I will add the amp
> filters, etc. myself.
> 73
> W4TMW
> Tom Warren
> Hartwell, GA
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[Elecraft] K2 serial interface debug

[TI2/NA7U]

I have two K2s (one for casual, one for dress . Both have the serial I/O
unit. One works fine the other not so much. The one with the problem is not
working with Fldigi (using any of the CAT interfaces). No commands appear to
be flowing in either direction. I actually don't know if the serial I/O ever
worked on that K2 as this is the first time I've tried it. 

Can someone just give me a debug strategy and some tips to help diagnose it?
TIA

73,

Casey, TI2/NA7U

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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 shipping status ?

[pcbyrne]

Ordered mine on the 14th. Received it today along with the 2 meter phase
lock board.

Palmer

 

  _  

From: K7WIA [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+6279620-639820336-157...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 2:15 PM
To: pcbyrne



 

Subject: XG3 shipping status ?

 

checked the archives and i don't see if the XG3 is in stock or is there a
wait period. 
not listed yet on the shipping status on the main web site.. 

just a kid at xmas waiting for mine... 

been looking for something like this for a long time... 

well done Elecraft... 

Ed  K7WIA 

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[Elecraft] [K2] Control board booboo?

[Wayne Conrad]

Please see this picture:

 http://yagni.com/ephemera/k2/control_board_booboo.jpg

I've just soldered R18, which is on the back of the K2 control board.  
This picture is of the front of the board.  Right in the middle of the 
picture is one of R18's leads, and encircling that lead, a tilted white 
ring that looks like what was on the board, encircling the hole, before 
I started soldering.  It has lifted off of the board, buoyed by the 
solder, and is sitting there like a winning ring-toss.

What is it?  Is it bad?  What do I do now?

Best Regards,
Wayne Conrad

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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 shipping status ?

[K7WIA]

Tnx Bill.

Looks like a stock item...

I should have mine by the end of next week. I ordered late on the
14th

Ed   K7WIA



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Re: [Elecraft] 110 or 120 watts ??

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

K3 max transmit was reduced to 110 watts quite a while ago.

On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 3:07 PM, Richard  wrote:
> I did the latest download to get my P3 working. The P3 works now but the 
> display shows a max of 110 watts where before it showed 120. I know it won’t 
> probably make any difference to those listening to me. Just wondering if 
> Elecraft changed the max wattage or if I did somehow ???
>
>                                                                       Rich 
> KC8HMJ
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] No RSP for some K3 commands

[Alexander Sack]

On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 2:43 PM, Alexander Sack  wrote:
> On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 2:37 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
>> "ANn;" is a "SET" command. To see what the status is, you'd use the "GET"
>> version ("AN;").
>
> Understood but that is a separate command sequence.
>
>> Another possibility is to put the K3 into autoinfo mode by sending "AI2;".
>> After that, anytime you change the antenna selection either by sending
>> "ANn;" or by tapping ANT on the rig itself, an "ANn;" response will be
>> generated. This is true for many other commands as well. The programmer's
>> reference goes into much more detail.
>>
>
> Wayne, thank you.  I for some reason missed the AI commend in the
> first paragraph of the reference.  Mea culpa.  Let me investigate this
> mode before I ask my second set of questions!  :-)
>

Small update;  Wayne that does fix it.  Oddly enough, it sends "ANn;"
twice as a response.

-aps
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 shipping status ?

[Bill W4ZV]

K7WIA wrote:
> 
> checked the archives and i don't see if the XG3 is in stock or is there a
> wait period.
> not listed yet on the shipping status on the main web site..
> 

Ordered April 13th and shipped April 15th...patience.

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] No RSP for some K3 commands

[Alexander Sack]

On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 2:37 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> "ANn;" is a "SET" command. To see what the status is, you'd use the "GET"
> version ("AN;").

Understood but that is a separate command sequence.

> Another possibility is to put the K3 into autoinfo mode by sending "AI2;".
> After that, anytime you change the antenna selection either by sending
> "ANn;" or by tapping ANT on the rig itself, an "ANn;" response will be
> generated. This is true for many other commands as well. The programmer's
> reference goes into much more detail.
>

Wayne, thank you.  I for some reason missed the AI commend in the
first paragraph of the reference.  Mea culpa.  Let me investigate this
mode before I ask my second set of questions!  :-)

73

-aps (KC2ZSX)
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] No RSP for some K3 commands

[Wayne Burdick]

"ANn;" is a "SET" command. To see what the status is, you'd use the  
"GET" version ("AN;").

Another possibility is to put the K3 into autoinfo mode by sending  
"AI2;". After that, anytime you change the antenna selection either by  
sending "ANn;" or by tapping ANT on the rig itself, an "ANn;" response  
will be generated. This is true for many other commands as well. The  
programmer's reference goes into much more detail.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Apr 16, 2011, at 2:17 PM, Alexander Sack wrote:

> Hello Folks:
>
> Simple question, when you send the Antenna Selection command (ANn;), I
> notice that the K3 does not respond with any status code of whether it
> succeeded or not.  Is this by design or just a bug?
>
> uC 4.25
> d1 2.71
> d2 0
> fl 1.14
> dr 0
>
> I would think it should return the current a status code explicitly OR
> the current antenna selected (which then would allow an application to
> test for success, etc.).
>
> 73
>
> -aps (KC2ZSX)
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[Elecraft] [K3] No RSP for some K3 commands

[Alexander Sack]

Hello Folks:

Simple question, when you send the Antenna Selection command (ANn;), I
notice that the K3 does not respond with any status code of whether it
succeeded or not.  Is this by design or just a bug?

uC 4.25
d1 2.71
d2 0
fl 1.14
dr 0

I would think it should return the current a status code explicitly OR
the current antenna selected (which then would allow an application to
test for success, etc.).

73

-aps (KC2ZSX)
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] 60W temperature controlled iron; unknown brand of solder

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

There's no doubt that is a temperature-controlled soldering station. If it
works as well as it looks, you have a winner, Wayne. 

The description also makes the other important point for this work: the tip
is grounded to keep sensitive components safe from ESD. 

Ron AC7AC

 
-Original Message-

On 04/16/2011 08:36 AM, G. Beat wrote:
>
> What is this 60 Watt temperatrure controlled station.
>
>
>
> Forst, the reason I ask is that I have seen many newcomers/novices "hood
winked" into buying
>
> stations that are NOT True Termperature Control .. but the box and form
factor looks like one.
>

Greg, It's a Circuit Specialists house brand:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/10369

When I take off the tip and expose the element, it's glowing a dull 
orange.  If I blow on it, it glows brighter.  When I stop blowing, it 
goes back to dull orange.  That's the only direct evidence I have that 
it is temperature controlled.  It's no Cadillac, and reprogramming the 
presets is maddening, but it seems to work.  At least, I'm making 
acceptable joints with it.  No cold joints, most joints have the proper 
concave filet (a few might be just a wee bit convex, but no big balls of 
solder in any case), and full coverage of the pad.  I've got that "one 
to three second" temperature dialed in.

I started with the 40-W dummy load.  That was good practice, especially 
for learning which tip (the one that came with the iron, oddly enough) 
and which temperature setting to use.  Then I put together the audio 
filter module.  For $80, I could screw that up completely and call it an 
expensive lesson rather than a disaster.  It came out good, though.  
Better than the dummy load, in any case.  I'm working on the control 
board now.  Man, this is some fun!

> Second, many contributors here on Elecraft will bend over backwards -- to
make sure you get the RIGHT tools
>
> and the RIGHT advice.
Now that's the truth.  This is a great bunch of people.  I only hope 
that someday I'll be able to help others the way this group has helped me.

Wayne Conrad


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[Elecraft] K3EXREF

[Edward R. Cole]

I was a beta-tester.  The kit I received included a BNC-F/sma-M 
adapter.  The cable to install has a sma-F connector.   So you can go 
either direction (BNC MM cable) or a cable with sma-M to BNC-M.  I 
chose the later (I already had a couple made) because it will present 
less mechanical stress on the sma connector on the K3.

Some years ago I modified my FT-847 to breakout separate 2m and 70cm 
Rx lines.  I used flange-mount sma-F connectors with RG-174 to 
accomplish this.  For awhile I used a BNC/sma adapter but accidently 
snagging the cable I broke the adapter.  Of course that could have 
also broke an sma connector.  Adapters are not cheap!

Many suppliers like Mouser and Digikey carry sma connectors for RG-58 
cable (typically crimp-style).  They are no harder to make up than a 
BNC connector.  If you really do not want to make up a cable, there 
are many companies that sell made-up cables with whatever mix of 
connectos you wish (try Googling assembled coax cables; or search e-bay).

Message: 12
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 10:56:19 -0500
From: Jim Sheldon 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3EXREF
To: Elecraft Mailing List 
Message-ID: <2011416105619.264114@home-5700c25bca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Now I'm just waiting for Elecraft to get the K3EXREF board in 
production to the point they are available.   I have obtained a 
Trimble Thunderbolt, a Larsen marine GPS (read white mushroom) 
antenna and have ordered a 3 voltage power supply for the 
Trimble.  Right now I have it running on a pair of Lambda analog 
supplies (5 V and a +/- 12) tied together.  I still need to make up 
the cable to run from the Trimble to the K3.

My main question at this time is - What type connector is going to be 
on the rear of the K3 for the external ref?  The only thing I can 
find in the K3 manual (Rev D9) is on page 17 and it indicated that 
it's an SMA so if that's the case, I'll need to make up an SMA 
male-to-male cable to come from the Trimble to the K3.  (My 
Thunderbolt came with a  Mini-Circuits ZFSC-2-1, 5-500MHz 
splitter.  It was already connected to the 10MHz output by a short 
BNC to SMA connector, leaving 2 output ports from the splitter open.

I can make or obtain an SMA-SMA cable or if the K3EXREF input is a 
BNC, cables are already on hand for that.

Would appreciate any info on this prior to my being able to buy the board.

Jim - W0EB






73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-winter?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] 60W temperature controlled iron; unknown brand of solder

[Wayne Conrad]

On 04/16/2011 08:36 AM, G. Beat wrote:
>
> What is this 60 Watt temperatrure controlled station.
>
>
>
> Forst, the reason I ask is that I have seen many newcomers/novices "hood 
> winked" into buying
>
> stations that are NOT True Termperature Control .. but the box and form 
> factor looks like one.
>

Greg, It's a Circuit Specialists house brand:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/10369

When I take off the tip and expose the element, it's glowing a dull 
orange.  If I blow on it, it glows brighter.  When I stop blowing, it 
goes back to dull orange.  That's the only direct evidence I have that 
it is temperature controlled.  It's no Cadillac, and reprogramming the 
presets is maddening, but it seems to work.  At least, I'm making 
acceptable joints with it.  No cold joints, most joints have the proper 
concave filet (a few might be just a wee bit convex, but no big balls of 
solder in any case), and full coverage of the pad.  I've got that "one 
to three second" temperature dialed in.

I started with the 40-W dummy load.  That was good practice, especially 
for learning which tip (the one that came with the iron, oddly enough) 
and which temperature setting to use.  Then I put together the audio 
filter module.  For $80, I could screw that up completely and call it an 
expensive lesson rather than a disaster.  It came out good, though.  
Better than the dummy load, in any case.  I'm working on the control 
board now.  Man, this is some fun!

> Second, many contributors here on Elecraft will bend over backwards -- to 
> make sure you get the RIGHT tools
>
> and the RIGHT advice.
Now that's the truth.  This is a great bunch of people.  I only hope 
that someday I'll be able to help others the way this group has helped me.

Wayne Conrad

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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Edward R. Cole]

And if you want to save about $50, there are several OCXO on e-bay 
for $40-50 (with many offering free shipping).  All you do is hook 
them to 12vdc and coax to the K3EXREF, as most run at +10 dBm.  The 
waveform may not be a perfect sine wave.

--and no satellites were harmed in locking your K3! ;-)

My Russian surplus OCXO is rated +/- 5E-12 (phase noise = -150 dBc/Hz 
at 1-KHz) and runs full time.  I also have a Rb, but reserve its use 
for critical freq. measurements.

Phase noise is not an issue when running the K3EXREF as that is 
established by the K3 TCXO.  The external reference serves only to 
correct TCXO freq. drift every 4-seconds or so.
---
Another good choice is the Trimble Thunderbolt receiver.  There are a
lot of these refurbished units available on eBay or elsewhere for
under $100.  You can leave this receiver on full-time if necessary (I
do).  The Thunderbolt outputs a sine wave at 12.5 dBm.

I used an Rb standard borrowed from work for a few days, and found
that the Thunderbolt and Rb produced about the same amount of
precision.  The Rb is noisier though (in the time domain), looking at
its output on a spectrum analyzer.  You can't beat an OCXO for
cleanliness


73,
Matt W6NIA



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-winter?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
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Re: [Elecraft] Alternate microphones for K3

[G4LNA]

Hello Robert,

I use a Samson stage mic, but I do use a lot of external audio gear for the
audio, it is a legacy from my home brew days when I used to use a phasing
TX, the audio was so good on that I have retained it on the present rig to
good affect.

As for the PTT, I use a miniature Morse key, when I'm not using it I just
tuck it under the rig out of the way.

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[Elecraft] Multi-band (Fan) Dipoles

[Edward R. Cole]

I am always amazed how some have so much difficulty making dipole antennas.

With multi-band dipoles (or Fans as it is being called here), tuning 
of one dipole interacts with the tuning of other ones.  It is not too 
bad with harmonically related bands as the non-resonant reactance 
isolates the others pretty well.  I made a 4125 KHz/5167 KHz dual 
dipole (Fan) for work and the two are so close in frequency that 
serious interaction took place.  The lower frequency dipole (4125 
KHz, Marine HF chan-4A) tuned pretty easily but 5167 (AK Emergency 
Chan) was extremely narrow in bw (10 KHz).  That made 5167 not usable 
in some kinds of wx.

But I have had a 80/40/20m dipole (now it is 80/40m) up for years and 
they are not that hard to tune.  You start with the lower freq 
dipoles slightly long and tune the highest freq. dipole first.  Then 
the next, and so on.  You should re-check tuning on the highest 
freq.after tuning the nest highest to see if it is affected and make 
adjustment.  I said not hard, but it does take longer to get all resonant.

Using one of the portable antenna analyzers it the ONLY way to go 
(much simpler and convenient).


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-winter?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 + ATU + Loop antenna in the attic

[Alan D. Wilcox]

Don,
The fan antenna was a lashup in the attic in hopes of having another 
antenna, hopefully to use with the K2 upstairs in the office. If it 
worked out, great; if not, no big deal. The attic isn't easy to get into 
(no pull-down), and not a lot of room to stumble around up there.

The final solution was to switch my 130' Carolina Windom between the K2 
and K3. See bottom of   
http://wilcoxengineering.com/projects/amateur-projects/39-fan-dipole  . 
The coax relay didn't make good contact, so I replaced it with a big 24 
vdc 4PDT junk relay in a metal box: the extra contacts give solid 
connections AND ground the unused feed to either the K2 or K3. BTW, only 
one rig is ever physically connected to the coax unless it's powered up 
and being used.

With the storms ripping around today, both the K2 and K3 are safely 
disconnected!

Cheers, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://eBookEditor.net
https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/28062?ref=awilcox
Williamsport, PA 17701

On 4/15/11 7:29 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>  Alan,
>
> Sorry to hear about your lack of success with the fan dipoles.  I have 
> three of them - one for 80 and 40, another for 30, 17 and 12m, and yet 
> another for 20, 15, and 10.  They work very well.
>
> My "secrets" - space the wires for each band away from one another - 
> my 80 and 40 antennas are at right angles to each other, so there is 
> little of any interaction.  The other two have the wires spaced about 
> 1 foot apart using CPVC pipe with holes drilled in them (wires through 
> the holes) to maintain the spacing.  PVC would work too, but is heavier).
>
> The antennas do interact, so plan ahead, you will have to do some "cut 
> and try" pruning.  Tune the lowest band or resonance first, and then 
> the next band higher in frequency.  Trying it the other "way 'round" 
> is an exercise in futility (been there, done that, and have the scars).
>
> I usually consider 3 bands on one feedline the limit of my patience, 
> but this last weekend I helped a friend construct an antenna with 4 
> wires - 80, 40, 20, and 10 meters.  It was a bit of a pain to tune, 
> but it worked out well.  Cut the wires at least 10% long and prune as 
> required.
>
> One other point - do not use separate wires for bands that are close 
> to the 3rd harmonic of another band - in other words, for HF, do not 
> put a 30 meter radiator on a feedline that contains an 80 meter wire, 
> and do not put a 15 meter wire on a feedline that also has a 40 meter 
> wire.  The lower band antenna may be usable on the 3rd harmonic 
> (likely with a tuner), but trying to combine those two wires will 
> result in even more frustration.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/15/2011 6:15 PM, Alan D. Wilcox wrote:
>> FWIW, see my fan antenna at
>> http://wilcoxengineering.com/projects/amateur-projects/39-fan-dipole
>> A bright idea that didn't work out so well!
>>
>> Cheers, Alan
>>
>> Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
>>
>
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[Elecraft] XG3 shipping status ?

[K7WIA]

checked the archives and i don't see if the XG3 is in stock or is there a
wait period.
not listed yet on the shipping status on the main web site..

just a kid at xmas waiting for mine...

been looking for something like this for a long time...

well done Elecraft...

Ed  K7WIA

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/XG3-shipping-status-tp6279620p6279620.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] 110 or 120 watts ??

[Richard]

I did the latest download to get my P3 working. The P3 works now but the 
display shows a max of 110 watts where before it showed 120. I know it won’t 
probably make any difference to those listening to me. Just wondering if 
Elecraft changed the max wattage or if I did somehow ???

   Rich 
KC8HMJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Wayne Burdick]

This is correct. The asterisk indicates that at some point, an  
external reference was connected and did a REF CAL update. The K3 uses  
this value even if you turn the external reference off, on the theory  
that it is more accurate than the manually entered value of REF CAL.

If you turn the K3 off and back on with the reference disconnected,  
REF CAL will revert to its manually entered value and the asterisk  
will not appear.

Wayne
N6KR

On Apr 16, 2011, at 11:05 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> That's right David, my memory is failing me today.
>
> If you apply an external reference signal the asterisk will appear.
>
> The asterisk will flash as long as the external source is  
> controlling the
> K3's reference oscillator.
>
> If you disconnect the external source the flashing stops but the  
> asterisk
> remains.
>
> If you disconnect the external source and re-start the K3 (power off/ 
> on)
> there will be no asterisk until the external signal is applied again.
>
> At least that's how my prototype works.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: David Pratt [mailto:da...@g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk]
> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 10:21 AM
> To: Ron D'Eau Claire
> Cc: 'Julian, G4ILO'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions
>
> Ron - Shouldn't the asterisk be blinking if the K3 is being controlled
> by and external reference?  The presence of an asterisk merely  
> indicates
> that it has at some time been controlled by a reference since the last
> power-up.
>
> 73 de David G4DMP
>
> In a recent message, Ron D'Eau Claire  writes
>>
>> I can answer 2, Julian. It is yes. If there is no external 10 MHz  
>> signal,
>> the K3 reference oscillator reverts to its normal operation. An  
>> asterisk
>> (splat, whatever one wants to call it) appears on the LCD when  
>> there's an
>> external signal detected, so you know at a glance whether the K3 is  
>> being
>> controlled by the external signal.
> -- 
> + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
> | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
> | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
> + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

That's right David, my memory is failing me today. 

If you apply an external reference signal the asterisk will appear.

The asterisk will flash as long as the external source is controlling the
K3's reference oscillator.

If you disconnect the external source the flashing stops but the asterisk
remains. 

If you disconnect the external source and re-start the K3 (power off/on)
there will be no asterisk until the external signal is applied again. 

At least that's how my prototype works.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: David Pratt [mailto:da...@g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 10:21 AM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: 'Julian, G4ILO'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

Ron - Shouldn't the asterisk be blinking if the K3 is being controlled
by and external reference?  The presence of an asterisk merely indicates
that it has at some time been controlled by a reference since the last
power-up.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Ron D'Eau Claire  writes
>
>I can answer 2, Julian. It is yes. If there is no external 10 MHz signal,
>the K3 reference oscillator reverts to its normal operation. An asterisk
>(splat, whatever one wants to call it) appears on the LCD when there's an
>external signal detected, so you know at a glance whether the K3 is being
>controlled by the external signal.
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +



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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Paul Christensen]

The slow flash of the asterisk changes to a steady asterisk upon loss of the 
external reference, and presumably when the external reference falls 
reasonably outside of level and frequency tolerances.  One can confirm the 
operation of K3EXREF by unplugging the precision reference and noting a 
steady asterisk on the LCD display while in menu mode.  Upon re-connection 
of the external reference, the asterisk will again start flashing.  It is 
definitely confirmation that a precision external reference is active and 
present.

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: "David Pratt" 
To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
Cc: "'Julian, G4ILO'" ; 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions


> Ron - Shouldn't the asterisk be blinking if the K3 is being controlled
> by and external reference?  The presence of an asterisk merely indicates
> that it has at some time been controlled by a reference since the last
> power-up.
>
> 73 de David G4DMP
>
> In a recent message, Ron D'Eau Claire  writes
>>
>>I can answer 2, Julian. It is yes. If there is no external 10 MHz signal,
>>the K3 reference oscillator reverts to its normal operation. An asterisk
>>(splat, whatever one wants to call it) appears on the LCD when there's an
>>external signal detected, so you know at a glance whether the K3 is being
>>controlled by the external signal.
> -- 
> + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
> | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
> | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
> + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] FW: XG3 device...

[Terry Schieler]

K9MA:  "It seems likely we hams have the toughest receiver dynamic range
requirements on the planet."

Good point, Scott.  I can, however, think of a few instances where
commercial systems have to perform very well in dense communications
environments.  The "Mobile Command Centers" used by many public safety
agencies are often jam packed with transceivers operating close-in in-band,
out-of-band, HF, VHF, UHF, 800 mHz etc, while deployed to remote areas.  All
the antennas are in close proximity, usually on the roof of the vehicle.

Many years back I was Communications Coordinator for a very large fair and
air show held on the St. Louis riverfront each summer.  Housed in a nearby
hotel ball room were folks manning transceivers for St. Louis City PD,
Missouri State Highway Patrol, FAA, U.S. Coast Guard, Illinois State Police,
Mo State Water Patrol, Secret Service (big shot visitors), ATF, the Air Show
Boss and Red Cross, State Emergency Management, just to name a few.  All
these agencies had top notch communications equipment and all the antennas
were somewhere on a nearby patio/veranda overlooking the fair site.  We had
bags full of notch filters, cavities, band pass devices etc that were put to
good use during the weekend fair as Murphy reared his ugly head.

Terry, W0FM 



-Original Message-
From: Scott Ellington [mailto:sdell...@facstaff.wisc.edu] 
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 12:58 PM
To: Elecraft list
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XG3 device...

Is there any other communication system that requires the kind of close-in
dynamic range we do?  It certainly wouldn't make much sense to design a
commercial system with such requirements.  It seems likely we hams have the
toughest receiver dynamic range requirements on the planet.


Scott  K9MA


On Apr 15, 2011, at 12:30 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

> Of course, if we didn't want to be able to copy with equal clarity
> over a > 100 dB input signal range, we could dispense with a lot of
> this. AND do that with signals of the extremes separated by a mere 250
> Hz.  We are so picky.  Why does anyone put up with us :>)

Scott Ellington
Madison, Wisconsin
USA





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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[David Pratt]

Ron - Shouldn't the asterisk be blinking if the K3 is being controlled
by and external reference?  The presence of an asterisk merely indicates
that it has at some time been controlled by a reference since the last
power-up.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Ron D'Eau Claire  writes
>
>I can answer 2, Julian. It is yes. If there is no external 10 MHz signal,
>the K3 reference oscillator reverts to its normal operation. An asterisk
>(splat, whatever one wants to call it) appears on the LCD when there's an
>external signal detected, so you know at a glance whether the K3 is being
>controlled by the external signal.
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +



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[Elecraft] SSB net announcement

[phils]

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (4/17/11) at 1800z on
14.316 MHz. We tail end the Icom net that ends at 1800z on that
frequency.  I will be net control form western Oregon.  See you
there. 

73, 

Phil, NS7P
 
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[Elecraft] Amplifier Suggestions

[David Yarnes]

Frank and All,

There are some very good small amps out there.  Tokyo Hy-Power now offers an 
HL-45 that will run about 50 watts or so, and is a very good product.  I 
have their older version, the HL-50B, and it is a superb product as well. 
It is particularly useful with the numerous little QRP rigs I have around 
the shack when conditions just aren't that great for 5 watts or less. 
Another good product is the HF Packer amp, which has been upgraded to quite 
a nice package.

Problem is, these add-on amps are cumbersome, unless you plan to use them 
with several different rigs like I do.  Also, they aren't cheap, even if you 
find one that is used.

If you are just planning to use one with your K3/10, I'd very strongly 
suggest you bite the bullet and just add the Elecraft amp module.  It's 
probably even "pricier" than the alternatives mentioned above, but the 
convenience factor looms large.  It fits neatly inside your K3, doesn't 
necessitate a bunch of extra connecting cables, interfaces very nicely with 
your K3's firmware, etc.  Then you would have a fully controllable amp, all 
in one package, that you can simply dial up the power you want.  This is a 
lot more convenient than you might think, and especially if you realize that 
more often than not, you don't really need to go all the way to 100 watts, 
or even close to that, to improve your ability to communicate in tougher 
conditions.  50 watts or less may be all you really need, and you wouldn't 
get much more than that anyway out of the others mentioned above.  When 10 
watts or less is sufficient, you simply dial that up, and the amp module is 
effectively disengaged.  In my view, this is absolutely your best option, 
provided you can swing the cost issue.

If cost is a significant issue, there is one other type out there I'm 
familiar with, and frequently I see them offered for a much lower price 
(used).  These are the ones from RM Italy.  I have an HLA-150, and it is a 
pretty good amp--actually will run more than 100 watts.  It's also auto band 
switching.  If you get one of the "HLA" series, they do have proper bandpass 
filtering.  Other models apparently don't.  My biggest problem with this amp 
is that it's RF sensing capability isn't great--not like the Tokyo Hy-Power 
models.  So, you really need to key it directly, which is a problem with 
most of the little QRP rigs I have, since they don't have a keying line. 
Thus, this amp tends to clip dits and dahs here and there unless you do 
hardwire the keying.  Anyway, I've seen these being sold for something 
around a dollar a watt or so--a good bit cheaper than the others I 
mentioned.  There are also some concerns about this amp's purity when run up 
around it's stated capability.  At 100 watts or less, however, it seems to 
be acceptable.  W8JI did some extensive testing on this, and you might want 
to check out his comments if you are interested.

Bottom line--get the Elecraft amp module if at all possible.  In the long 
run, you won't regret it.

Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF

[Paul Christensen]

> I can make or obtain an SMA-SMA cable or if the K3EXREF input is a BNC, 
> cables are already on hand for that.

The kit includes an SMA panel jack with completed ends. A SMA-to-BNC 
between-series adapter is included.  I found a piece of RG-316 (RG-174 but 
with a Teflon jacket) with a male SMA on one end and crimped a male BNC on 
the other end.  The SMA end connects to the K3 while the BNC attaches to the 
precision oscillator.

Paul, W9AC




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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I can answer 2, Julian. It is yes. If there is no external 10 MHz signal,
the K3 reference oscillator reverts to its normal operation. An asterisk
(splat, whatever one wants to call it) appears on the LCD when there's an
external signal detected, so you know at a glance whether the K3 is being
controlled by the external signal. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

1. Will the K3EXREF work straight from the output of an Efratom LPRO-101 or
does it need a TTL square wave output or something else requiring extra
circuitry between the LPRO and the K3?

2. If the K3EXREF is installed, will the K3 still work as normal if the
frequency standard is not turned on? To maximize life of the rubidium lamp
in the frequency standard I wouldn't want to leave it on all the time and
for a lot of amateur operation the frequency accuracy it provides isn't
needed anyway.

Julian, G4ILO


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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF

[Matt Zilmer]

The K3 connector is an SMA.  Almost all of the Trimble units came with
a splitter, because E911 required two 10 MHz references to function.
Unless you need two sources yourself, I'd go direct from the Tbolt to
the K3 without the splitter, but it really doesn't matter.  You'll
have plenty of 10 MHz signal to work with anyway.

 You're lucky you got the short cable.  For the run to the antenna, I
would recommend RG142B if the length is over a few feet.  This is
rated for use at 12 GHZ, so it's probably overkill for a run less than
20 feet.  I just happened to have a spool sitting around.

I'm using an old Thales land surveying antenna mounted on the roof
here.  Sigs are showing green for all eight, and most SNR's are above
42 dB.  

Recommend you set the Tbolt up with an AMR of 4.0 and a minimum EL of
20 degrees to reduce horizon ambiguities.  Also, note that the Tbolt
doesn't use SBAS, so every sat you receive is in motion.  If there
were a firmware rev for the Tbolt that recognized WAAS birds, I would
also use that in place of the stock firmware.  All SBAS sats are
geostationary so doppler isn't the major correction needed.

73,
matt W6NIA
Upland, CA.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 10:56:19 -0500, you wrote:

>Now I'm just waiting for Elecraft to get the K3EXREF board in production to 
>the point they are available.   I have obtained a Trimble Thunderbolt, a 
>Larsen marine GPS (read white mushroom) antenna and have ordered a 3 voltage 
>power supply for the Trimble.  Right now I have it running on a pair of Lambda 
>analog supplies (5 V and a +/- 12) tied together.  I still need to make up the 
>cable to run from the Trimble to the K3.
>
>My main question at this time is - What type connector is going to be on the 
>rear of the K3 for the external ref?  The only thing I can find in the K3 
>manual (Rev D9) is on page 17 and it indicated that it's an SMA so if that's 
>the case, I'll need to make up an SMA male-to-male cable to come from the 
>Trimble to the K3.  (My Thunderbolt came with a  Mini-Circuits ZFSC-2-1, 
>5-500MHz splitter.  It was already connected to the 10MHz output by a short 
>BNC to SMA connector, leaving 2 output ports from the splitter open.
>
>I can make or obtain an SMA-SMA cable or if the K3EXREF input is a BNC, cables 
>are already on hand for that.  
>
>Would appreciate any info on this prior to my being able to buy the board.
>
>Jim - W0EB
>
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[Elecraft] K3EXREF

[Jim Sheldon]

Now I'm just waiting for Elecraft to get the K3EXREF board in production to the 
point they are available.   I have obtained a Trimble Thunderbolt, a Larsen 
marine GPS (read white mushroom) antenna and have ordered a 3 voltage power 
supply for the Trimble.  Right now I have it running on a pair of Lambda analog 
supplies (5 V and a +/- 12) tied together.  I still need to make up the cable 
to run from the Trimble to the K3.

My main question at this time is - What type connector is going to be on the 
rear of the K3 for the external ref?  The only thing I can find in the K3 
manual (Rev D9) is on page 17 and it indicated that it's an SMA so if that's 
the case, I'll need to make up an SMA male-to-male cable to come from the 
Trimble to the K3.  (My Thunderbolt came with a  Mini-Circuits ZFSC-2-1, 
5-500MHz splitter.  It was already connected to the 10MHz output by a short BNC 
to SMA connector, leaving 2 output ports from the splitter open.

I can make or obtain an SMA-SMA cable or if the K3EXREF input is a BNC, cables 
are already on hand for that.  

Would appreciate any info on this prior to my being able to buy the board.

Jim - W0EB

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier Suggestions

[Lou Kolb]

This is a great suggestion.  Once you have the 100 watt amp that is meant 
for the K3, you can always set your power for anything between 10 and 100 
watts and you'll use no extra space on the desk, if that matters.  It would 
in my shack.  73,  Lou WA3MIX
- Original Message - 
From: "Mike WA8BXN" 
To: ; "Frank MacDonell" 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier Suggestions


>I would add the Elecraft amplifier designed for the K3 to upgrade to a
> K3/100. There aren't a lot of choices for amps that are designed for 10
> watts in. You could go with any linear designed for higher power and just
> get less out driving with 10 watts.
>
> 73 - Mike WA8BXN
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] 60W temperature controlled iron; unknown brand of solder

[G. Beat]

Wayne - 



You have received some GOOD advice. 

What is this 60 Watt temperatrure controlled station. 



Forst, the reason I ask is that I have seen many newcomers/novices "hood 
winked" into buying 

stations that are NOT True Termperature Control .. but the box and form factor 
looks like one. 



Second, many contributors here on Elecraft will bend over backwards -- to make 
sure you get the RIGHT tools 

and the RIGHT advice.  For example, many Elecraft builders (and readers here) 
have pounds of solder available, 

extra tools (many new unopened). 

I like Kester "44" in 63/37 or 60/40 mix (flux core) with a .020 wire for small 
PC board work and .031 wire for point to point/connector work. 

The Kester PocketPak .. now sold by NTE that sell for $3 are very handy for 
field work. 



I have refurbished Weller stations (that look new) and parts for broken units 
-- that are far cheaper than buying new (however, I am NOT a retailer).  

In fact, I usually just cover my repair parts cost.  I did that first for 
penniless high-school and middle-school students 

that had a passion for electronics. 



As far as temperature -- I like 650 to 700 with 63/37 or 60/40 solder.  The KEY 
to operate at this temperature is 

the proper size tip and profile (3/32" chisel/screwdriver and 1/16" 
chisel/screwdriver for finer PC work).  

I find many people use a tip that is too small for much of their soldering 
work. 



Greg 

w9gb  



 
I've got a new temperature controlled soldering station, but it's 60W.   
I ordered 60W in case I'm ever forced to use lead-free solder (I 
understand that it takes more "oomf").  The manual says that any more 
than 40W and I can damage the board.  Should I return this iron and get 
its 40W cousin, or may I use it if I keep the temperature on "no quicker 
than one second, no longer than three" as I've read here? 

The local parts store didn't have the Kester 285 solder that I've seen 
recommended.  Out of an act of optimism I brought home some "MG 
Chemicals" brand solder, #4894-454G.  It says "RA Flux, 0.025" Diam., 23 
Gauge, 2.2% flux."  Will that be OK, or should I return it and go 
looking for better? 

I'm cleaning off the hobby bench now.  Other than reading books, this is 
the first real step in my new hobby.  I'm supposed to be resting (I'm 
home sick today), but I can't get myself to lay down when I've got this 
waiting for me. 

Best Regards, 
Wayne Conrad 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Matt Zilmer]

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 07:07:25 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

The K3EXREF will use either a sine wave input at 4 to 16 dBm (2 to
3.3V), or a TTL signal.  The manual advises using a 50 ohm series
resistor for 5V TTL to drop the voltage level into the proper range.
>1. Will the K3EXREF work straight from the output of an Efratom LPRO-101 or
>does it need a TTL square wave output or something else requiring extra
>circuitry between the LPRO and the K3?
>
Yes.  In this case, the K3 reverts to the stored REF CAL value.  The
way I've set this up is to let the K3 make the compensation approach a
final value by running for a few hours on the external reference, then
programming the REF CAL shown while on the ref into the CONFIG menu
parameter.  Testing later shows this produces precision of a few Hz,
even with a 5C of temperature change, at 50 MHz and using the 5 PPM
TCXO in the K3.
>2. If the K3EXREF is installed, will the K3 still work as normal if the
>frequency standard is not turned on? To maximize life of the rubidium lamp
>in the frequency standard I wouldn't want to leave it on all the time and
>for a lot of amateur operation the frequency accuracy it provides isn't
>needed anyway.
>
Another good choice is the Trimble Thunderbolt receiver.  There are a
lot of these refurbished units available on eBay or elsewhere for
under $100.  You can leave this receiver on full-time if necessary (I
do).  The Thunderbolt outputs a sine wave at 12.5 dBm.

I used an Rb standard borrowed from work for a few days, and found
that the Thunderbolt and Rb produced about the same amount of
precision.  The Rb is noisier though (in the time domain), looking at
its output on a spectrum analyzer.  You can't beat an OCXO for
cleanliness


73,
Matt W6NIA
=.=

>Julian, G4ILO
>
>-
>Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
>* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
>* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
>* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier Suggestions

[Mike WA8BXN]

I would add the Elecraft amplifier designed for the K3 to upgrade to a
K3/100. There aren't a lot of choices for amps that are designed for 10
watts in. You could go with any linear designed for higher power and just
get less out driving with 10 watts. 
 
73 - Mike WA8BXN 
 
 
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[Elecraft] Amplifier Suggestions

[Frank MacDonell]

I have a K3/10 and live in a CCR environment. Presently  I  have a  homebrew
dipole (66 feet of stranded copper) in the attic. It works quite well but I
would like to have more reach with CW. I am also concerned about getting RFI
into the neighbor's speakers. I would like to consider a smaller amplifier
compatible with the K3. Does anyone have suggestions? Thanks in advance!

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Paul Christensen]

> 1. Will the K3EXREF work straight from the output of an Efratom LPRO-101 
> or
> does it need a TTL square wave output or something else requiring extra
> circuitry between the LPRO and the K3?

A 10 MHz sine wave output from the Efratom is fine (+4 dBm to +16 dBm).

> 2. If the K3EXREF is installed, will the K3 still work as normal if the
> frequency standard is not turned on?

Yes.

Also, an asterisk (*) in the K3's menu will blink when K3EXREF recognizes a 
valid reference signal.

Paul,  W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 30-80 meter option

[Tony Estep]

On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 12:36 AM, Dave Sergeant wrote:

> On 15 Apr 2011 at 18:59, K8QI wrote:
> .Yemen 7O has not been active for years and amateur licences
> are currently impossible to get..
>
>
>
Sad but true. But just to show how old I am, I have the (now deleted)
Republic of Yemen from 1958, VS9AD. Back when solar flux was 3x what it is
today, and stuff like that was heard every day.

Tony KT0NY
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[Elecraft] K3EXREF Questions

[Julian, G4ILO]

1. Will the K3EXREF work straight from the output of an Efratom LPRO-101 or
does it need a TTL square wave output or something else requiring extra
circuitry between the LPRO and the K3?

2. If the K3EXREF is installed, will the K3 still work as normal if the
frequency standard is not turned on? To maximize life of the rubidium lamp
in the frequency standard I wouldn't want to leave it on all the time and
for a lot of amateur operation the frequency accuracy it provides isn't
needed anyway.

Julian, G4ILO

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 device...

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Hi Alan,

Due to visitors arriving tomorrow, I must make this my last post on the 
subject we have been discussing.

I believe that this discussion started after Jack had warned that a square 
wave source can get you into trouble if used to make 2nd and 3rd 
intermodulation measurements, and noted that MiniCircuits AN-00-008 offered 
an explanation.

As a summary,

In the last paragraph of my last post I suggested that an "unwanted" mixer 
mixer can exist near the input of the filter, and that it would be exposed 
to the full impact of the source's harmonics. I should stress that this is 
not speculation, but fact derived from many diagnostic tests on filters 
during design.

In the case of two-tone IMD tests using sources whose harmonic content is 
high, any "unwanted" mixer near to the filter's input will generate a host 
of products, and some of these will pass through the filter and contaminate 
the test results.

In the case of single-tone tests using a similar source, this "unwanted" 
mixer in the filter can still affect the accuracy of test results, by how 
much will depend, of course, on the characteristics of this "unwanted" mixer 
(which are related to the filter's design), and the level of the incoming 
test signal's fundamental and each harmonic.Please bear in mind that this 
"unwanted" mixer is NOT protected by the selectivity of the filter.

If in this second case the fundamental test frequency is F1, then the 
harmonics of F1 should not get through the filter. However because the 
"unwanted" mixer is exposed to the incoming signal's fundamental and its 
harmonics, among the products generated will be 2F1- F1,  3F1 - 2F1,  4F1- 
3F1 etc, all of which will get through the filter and contaminate the test 
results.

However if the single-tone test signal is a true and symmetrical square 
wave, the amplitude of the incoming even order harmonics should be small 
which would help to reduce this problem, leaving the "unwanted" mixer's 
"self generated" products at F1.

Lastly, with regard to front end filters and dynamic range, I can assure you 
that the design of the front end filters as used in a high performance HF 
receiver is not casual. What is causing some concern is that the gap between 
robust front end filters and top range mixers (H-Mode class), in terms of 
their IMD performance, is closing. Useful front end filters tend to be large 
in size!

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


On Friday, April 15, 2011, at 22:43 +0100, Alan Bloom wrote:

> Hi Geoff,
>
> The case we're considering is where the test signal(s) are near the
> receiver tuned frequency so they are well within the passband of the
> input filters.
>
> If the receiver's in-band dynamic range is significantly affected by
> non-linear filters in the front end, then that is a serious design
> error.  The distortion should be dominated by the mixer, not the filter.
> If the filter is distorting then it doesn't matter if the generator has
> harmonics - you're hosed anyway.
>
> For in-band receiver testing, generator harmonics should not matter.
> The only exceptions would be for receivers that do not have filters
> protecting the front end or perhaps the exceedingly rare case where a
> generator harmonic happens to fall on a receiver image or spur frequency
> (easily fixed by changing the test frequency slightly).  But in almost
> all cases the harmonics should not matter.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
>
> On Fri, 2011-04-15 at 21:30 +0100, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:
>> Hi Alan,
>>
>> Sorry that I was not here to reply to your previous e-mail.
>>
>> With respect, filter non-linearity and the level of harmonics coming from
>> the signal sources are related in terms of the amplitude of the IMD 
>> products
>> seen at the output of the filter.
>>
>> If the receiver being tested is perfect and linear, obviously it would 
>> not
>> matter if the IMD test sources contained harmonics because, for example, 
>> the
>> fundamental of one source (F1) has nowhere to mix with the second 
>> harmonic
>> of the second source (2F2) to produce the third order product 2F2-F1 -
>> assuming there is no IMD contribution from the test equipment.
>>
>> On the other hand if the receiver's signal path passes through a 
>> non-linear
>> element such as an input filter, then of course there is 'mixer' 
>> available
>> inside the filter to produce the natural third order product 2F2 - F1 as
>> would be expected when using clean sources. If the sources produce 
>> harmonics
>> however, then a twin third order product also at 2F2 - F1 would also be
>> generated, where 2F2 is the second harmonic generated by the F2 source. 
>> The
>> composite level of these two third order product as seen at the filter's
>> output could be significantly different from that of the natural product
>> depending on how they add.
>>
>> Although the second harmonic of a test source should be greatly 
>> attenuated
>> by a typical front end filter, an unwanted 'mixer' can exist near the 
>> input
>> of the 

Re: [Elecraft] XG3 and IMD testing

[Jack Smith]

A  classic comb generator products equal level harmonics.

In the time domain, it is an impulse waveform--in the limit infinitely 
narrow. It can be approximated by differentiating a fast rise/fall 
square wave with an RC circuit.

If you search "comb generator" you can find many implementations on the 
Internet.

Jack K8ZOA


On 4/16/2011 8:15 AM, David Cutter wrote:
> For my education: what is the mark-space ratio to develop optimum even and
> odd harmonics?  Does this have any merit?
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
>
>> And by the way, the XG1 and XG2 also have more or less square-wave
>> output. This is where the harmonics come from that allow them to put
>> out a useful signal on higher bands.
>>
>> For the intended applications, this waveform is not an issue, because
>> the receiver under test will virtually always have a low-pass filter
>> at its antenna input.
>>
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 30-80 meter option

[K8QI]

Dave,
I rechecked my log and it was A45XR in Oman - Not Yemen. 

Now I'm wondering why my "Mental Database" thought it was Yemen?

73
Barry K8QI 

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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 and IMD testing

[David Cutter]

For my education: what is the mark-space ratio to develop optimum even and 
odd harmonics?  Does this have any merit?

David
G3UNA


> And by the way, the XG1 and XG2 also have more or less square-wave
> output. This is where the harmonics come from that allow them to put
> out a useful signal on higher bands.
>
> For the intended applications, this waveform is not an issue, because
> the receiver under test will virtually always have a low-pass filter
> at its antenna input.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 No Transmit

[Don Wilhelm]

  Allan,

Build the RF probe that came with the K2 - unless you already have one, 
or have a 'scope with good frequency response (100 MHz) and a 10X probe.

Then turn the manual pages to Appendix E and do the Transmit Signal 
Tracing section.  When you come to any stage in the listed process that 
does not develop the expected RF voltage, stop (there is no sense in 
going further) - you have found the failing stage.

Once you identify the failing stage, we may be able to help further.  
Right now all we can say is that it is somewhere in the transmit chain.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/15/2011 10:45 PM, bigal...@gmail.com wrote:
> I am at end of stage 3 assembly doing transmitter alignment. 40 meters and
> 80 meters align okay. 10 meters, 12 meters,15 meters, 17 meters, 20 meters
> and 30 meters max out at .5 watt. The receiver pre-alignment worked fine on
> all bands. Used Hammond's signal tracing article to trace signals and all
> bands are okay. Checked K15 relay because it is common to all six of these
> bands and it seems to be working. VCO voltages check out okay on all bands.
> Filter alignment was okay. I'm stumped! Help!
>
> Allan KB1CLB
>
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[Elecraft] K3 - 2 questions about memories

[Pierfrancesco Caci]

Hello,

If I use memories 0-9 as quick band access, can they still be used as
band edges for scan?

Did anyone get around writing something to dump/restore memory content
under linux ?

Pf

-- 
Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
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