Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Richard Ferch]

W4GRJ wrote:

> Just leave the K3 in USB, do not change to data mode. RMS Express will set to
> the correct freq. You will not have to make any adjustments.

If this is correct, and RMS Express tunes to the correct frequency in 
USB mode but not in DATA A mode, then there may be an error in RMS 
Express. DATA A is exactly the same as USB except for disabling 
compression and EQ and the default choice of input audio path (line in 
instead of microphone). In particular, the frequency display in DATA A 
and USB is the same. A setup that works in USB should work in DATA A 
without changes.

What I suspect might be happening is that RMS Express might be 
programmed to handle DATA A as if it were a USB version of AFSK A. In 
AFSK A, the K3's dial displays the RTTY mark frequency, whereas in DATA 
A the dial displays the suppressed carrier frequency. If the RMS Express 
programmers assumed that in DATA A the radio's indicated frequency was 
the center of the bandpass instead of the suppressed carrier frequency, 
they would program it to tune the radio 1.5 kHz too high in DATA A.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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[Elecraft] K3 Wish List -XIT Tell-tale

[Tom Boucher]

Wayne, the annoyance factor could be reduced by ANDing the flashing 'Delta-F' 
light with the red 'Tx' light. That way it would only flash a warning when 
transmitting.

Thaty's what I like about Elecraft, an instant response even on Sunday 1st 
January!

73
Tom G3OLB

N6KR wrote: 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3. S/No:4250

[Eric Buggee; VK3AX]

Hi Rick.
 Thank you for your reply.  I guess I should have 
mentioned that!  I have done all of that, that is I have already 
equalised the readout frequencies on both displays (main & Sub).  I have 
also incremented either one -or-the other displays (main & Sub) by + or 
- a least significant digit on both displays in fine mode.  The 
whoosh-whoosh is at its slowest when both deaout displays (main & sub) 
are numerically identical!
Apologies for not stating that in my original posting, but, I did not 
wish to be seen as being too wordy!
Yes already tried all of that and as I said when I cal the TCXO 
carefully after about a one hour warm-up (stabilisation period, the 
whoosh-whoosh is at its slowest and gradually drifts out to being faster 
until after a period of about 4 to 6 weeks it becomes annoying. It goes 
from one in approx 10 seconds to about 0.5 second period; believe me it 
is Damn annoying!

Hence the reason for this posting.  I have been a Ham for over 50 years 
and have built my own gear (both valve & solid state.  Currently 
finishing the (slow) assembly of a PicaStar rig which I started about 3 
years back.

Thanks Rick and any others out there in K3 land I will appreciate your 
comments!

Sincerely,

Eric,

VK3AX.


On 1/2/2012 5:36 PM, Rick Bates [via Elecraft] wrote:
> Try TAPping the FINE button to show as many numerals as you can, on 
> both the
> main and sub receiver (use the A/B to switch back and forth).  Then make
> sure that they BOTH have EXACTLY, to the last numeral, the same value.
>
> That should take care of the problem.
>
> Rick WA6NHC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Eric Buggee; VK3AX
>
 When I engage the SUB Rx on our early morning net freq of 1859KHz I 
get a
> soft repetitive whoosh -whoosh sound form the stereo speakers, almost 
> as if
> there were a slow BEAT between the frequency of the two receivers, 
> this is
> audible even if there is no signal on frequency or not.  This 
> phenomenon is
> NOT as pronounced if the two Rx are tuned to a frequency ending in a 
> round
> number (say 1860KHz) but is still there and JUST tolerable!
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 second receiver install question

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Don,

For the installation of the K3 subrx, see:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EJL8SlJ_L8

73,
Arie PA3A


Op 1-1-2012 19:15, gold...@charter.net schreef:
> I am thinking about purchasing and installing a sub-receiver for working
> split and diversity.
>
> When reading the installation guide there is a section called Checking
> and Modifying Resistor R91 and DAC Input Circuits.  I have a 1 year old
> K3 SN 4912 is it safe to assume that this is already incorporated in my
> rig.I dont solder real well and dont feel confortable with the idea
> of cutting traces.
>
> Thanks
>
> Happy New Year
>
> ~73
> Don
> KD8NNU
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3. S/No:4250

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Eric,

The woosh you describe happens here when I use filters with different IF 
offsets.
I trust that you use filters with the same offset.
Maybe one of the offsets has changed? You can check this easily with the 
K3 utilty program.
Look at the configuration tab onder 'configure crystal filters'.

If you use the diversity setting and you still hear the woosh, this is 
the thing I would check.

73
Arie PA3A

Op 2-1-2012 7:17, Eric Buggee; VK3AX schreef:
> Hi all, I have had my K3 since mid August 2010. Bought it as a kit fully
> optioned with 2nd Rx,&gen coverage BPFand a set of 8 pole filters for main&
> 2nd Rx.
>
> Since I have had it in use (mainly 160M) it has performed almost flawlessly;
> with one exception!
>
> When I engage the SUB Rx on our early morning net freq of 1859KHz I get a
> soft repetitive whoosh -whoosh sound form the stereo speakers, almost as if
> there were a slow BEAT between the frequency of the two receivers, this is
> audible even if there is no signal on frequency or not.  This phenomenon is
> NOT as pronounced if the two Rx are tuned to a frequency ending in a round
> number (say 1860KHz) but is still there and JUST tolerable!
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] How Long will it take to assemble a K3/100??

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Steve,
Took me two days, probably 10hrs or so in total.
Be sure to check all errata for every building manual.

73
Arie PA3A

Op 1-1-2012 22:00, redtar...@nycap.rr.com schreef:
> Greetings everyone. I ordered a K3/100 in kit form last week. I should have 
> it this week. Just wondering how long it should take to assemble it??
>
> 73  Steve/k2we  Saratoga Springs, NY
> _
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Dave Johnson]

Matt

I use Airmail with my K3 and an SCS Pactor modem to connect to the
Winlink system. Using the pre-defined settings in Airmail it works
perfectly to connect to any of the mail boxes within range, no
tweaking of the RIT, etc. needed.

It looks like RMS Express is the cause of the issue, which I guess you
already know...

73 Dave, G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] Another KPA500 question

[AB3EN]

You might want to check out the switch from KR5L (check his QRZ page). He
will have it at the Orlando Ham Fest and is doing a kit with a Ten Tec box
and professional fittings. 

Jerry said on his page "These are three pictures of my homebrew 6 position
coaxial and linear amp. relay switch. This allows me to switch any of my
rigs to the input of my AL-811H along with its associated amp relay cable.
It really helped clean up the "rat's nest" of cables and coax swtiches that
I used before. This is the updated version as of 1-14-2011."

Jerry is a K3'er also. 

-

Dan AB3EN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[W4GRJ]

I use RMS Express Winmor,  DSM780 & FlDigi MT63, Airmail Pactor and MIL110A, 
they all work perfect with the rig left in USB.

Jack
W4GRJ / AFA4DG

On Jan 2, 2012, at 3:43, Richard Ferch  wrote:

> W4GRJ wrote:
> 
>> Just leave the K3 in USB, do not change to data mode. RMS Express will set to
>> the correct freq. You will not have to make any adjustments.
> 
> If this is correct, and RMS Express tunes to the correct frequency in 
> USB mode but not in DATA A mode, then there may be an error in RMS 
> Express. DATA A is exactly the same as USB except for disabling 
> compression and EQ and the default choice of input audio path (line in 
> instead of microphone). In particular, the frequency display in DATA A 
> and USB is the same. A setup that works in USB should work in DATA A 
> without changes.
> 
> What I suspect might be happening is that RMS Express might be 
> programmed to handle DATA A as if it were a USB version of AFSK A. In 
> AFSK A, the K3's dial displays the RTTY mark frequency, whereas in DATA 
> A the dial displays the suppressed carrier frequency. If the RMS Express 
> programmers assumed that in DATA A the radio's indicated frequency was 
> the center of the bandpass instead of the suppressed carrier frequency, 
> they would program it to tune the radio 1.5 kHz too high in DATA A.
> 
> 73,
> Rich VE3KI
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Nate Bargmann]

John, I'm not being flippant.  Please pick up a copy of Reflections III
by Walt Maxwell W2DU, published by CQ Comuunications.  The book covers a
lot of ground and will deepen your understanding of what you are rightly
seeing.

73, de Nate N0NB >>

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 QRP Operation?

[Nate Bargmann]

* On 2012 01 Jan 22:48 -0600, Jim Miller wrote:
> I've currently got a K3/10 (#1210) and I'm considering adding the 100w amp
> option. Once I do this how difficult is it to revert to QRP? Does the power
> control make this easy?

Jim, it is quite easy, although cranking the knob became a bit tedious
so I assigned a macro to the PF1 button to set the power to 5 W and
another to PF2 to set it to 100 W.  It is a very quick and handy way for
me to jump to either extreme.

Other than the weight, which is a consideration for portable operation,
the PA does not hinder the K3's QRP capability.

73, de Nate N0NB >>

-- 

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possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Thanks, Chip -

Looks like just what the doc ordered.

73, Mike NF4L

On 1/1/2012 11:12 PM, Chip Stratton wrote:
> Take a look at the TDK Lambda switch mode power supplies. The LS50-15 that
> I have is pretty quiet, with output voltage adjustable from 13.5v to 16.5v,
> about $20 from Newark Electronics. The LS35-12 is a bit cheaper if you
> really only need 12 volts.
> http://www.newark.com/tdk-lambda/ls5015/power-supply-ac-dc-15v/dp/08N3002
>
> Chip
> AE5KA
>
> On Thu, Dec 29, 2011 at 5:19 PM, Mike  wrote:
>
>> Looks like a Radio Shack 22-507 PS will meet my needs @ 3A. Unless someone
>> has a
>> better/cheaper solution. I have 4 20 amp (or better supplies), and don't
>> need another
>> of those . .
>>
>> 73, Mike NF4L
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Another KPA500 question

[Pete Smith]

Looks nice, but I would be worried about radio-to-radio isolation and 
possible RX damage on one radio when transmitting on another.  Any pix 
of the inside other than on QRZ?

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 AND now
at arcluster.reversebeacon.net port 7000



On 1/2/2012 7:28 AM, AB3EN wrote:
> You might want to check out the switch from KR5L (check his QRZ page). He
> will have it at the Orlando Ham Fest and is doing a kit with a Ten Tec box
> and professional fittings.
>
> Jerry said on his page "These are three pictures of my homebrew 6 position
> coaxial and linear amp. relay switch. This allows me to switch any of my
> rigs to the input of my AL-811H along with its associated amp relay cable.
> It really helped clean up the "rat's nest" of cables and coax swtiches that
> I used before. This is the updated version as of 1-14-2011."
>
> Jerry is a K3'er also.
>
> -
>
> Dan AB3EN
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Another-KPA500-question-tp7134629p7143670.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[John Lemay]

John

I would struggle to explain this, but I'm quite certain that what you are
seeing is quite correct and nothing to worry about. The Palstar is showing
you the swr of the antenna and feedline. The K3 ATU is matching the
transmitter to this impedance. The ATU does not change the antenna
impedance.

Regards

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Dziedziejko
Sent: 02 January 2012 04:13
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

I installed the KAT3 over the weekend and the construction and calibration
was successful. This evening I hooked everything back up to check reception,
tuning and swr. I have it set to AUTO, when I tap the ATU TUNE switch the
tuner does its thing and I read a 1.0:1 swr on the K3 meter. I have a
Palstar Wattmeter installed between the K3 and the antenna and for some
reason I am getting a high swr on the Palstar meter of 5:1 and don't
understand why. I have a multiband vertical antenna with a 4:1 Unun at the
base of the antenna. Am I missing something here?

A little hand holding would be appreciated.

Regards,

John W9QP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3. S/No:4250

[Bill W4ZV]

I agree with Arie's comments below.  Even if your filters were not factory
matched for identical offsets, you can simply set both to the average...e.g. 
for -0.75 and -0.81 set both to -0.78.  You would never notice a 30 Hz
difference in the total 2700 Hz BW of stock 5-pole filters.

73,  Bill

< author="Arie Kleingeld PA3A-2">
Eric,

The woosh you describe happens here when I use filters with different IF 
offsets.
I trust that you use filters with the same offset.
Maybe one of the offsets has changed? You can check this easily with the 
K3 utilty program.
Look at the configuration tab onder 'configure crystal filters'.

If you use the diversity setting and you still hear the woosh, this is 
the thing I would check.

73
Arie PA3A

Op 2-1-2012 7:17, Eric Buggee; VK3AX schreef:
> Hi all, I have had my K3 since mid August 2010. Bought it as a kit fully
> optioned with 2nd Rx,&gen coverage BPFand a set of 8 pole filters for
> main&
> 2nd Rx.
>
> Since I have had it in use (mainly 160M) it has performed almost
> flawlessly;
> with one exception!
>
> When I engage the SUB Rx on our early morning net freq of 1859KHz I get a
> soft repetitive whoosh -whoosh sound form the stereo speakers, almost as
> if
> there were a slow BEAT between the frequency of the two receivers, this is
> audible even if there is no signal on frequency or not.  This phenomenon
> is
> NOT as pronounced if the two Rx are tuned to a frequency ending in a round
> number (say 1860KHz) but is still there and JUST tolerable!
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Iain]

Same here, installed RMS last weekend it worked fine in USB for winmor 
also on my K3 first time.

Strange.
-- 
*Iain Haywood*
G4SGX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Richard Ferch]

Yes, of course, but that is not in the least surprising. The question 
is: Why doesn't RMS Express work properly in DATA A mode? This is 
precisely the kind of application that DATA A was intended for.

73,
Rich VE3KI


On 02/01/2012 7:53 AM, W4GRJ wrote:
> I use RMS Express Winmor,  DSM780&  FlDigi MT63, Airmail Pactor and MIL110A, 
> they all work perfect with the rig left in USB.
>
> Jack
> W4GRJ / AFA4DG
>
> On Jan 2, 2012, at 3:43, Richard Ferch  wrote:
>
>> W4GRJ wrote:
>>
>>> Just leave the K3 in USB, do not change to data mode. RMS Express will set 
>>> to
>>> the correct freq. You will not have to make any adjustments.
>>
>> If this is correct, and RMS Express tunes to the correct frequency in
>> USB mode but not in DATA A mode, then there may be an error in RMS
>> Express. DATA A is exactly the same as USB except for disabling
>> compression and EQ and the default choice of input audio path (line in
>> instead of microphone). In particular, the frequency display in DATA A
>> and USB is the same. A setup that works in USB should work in DATA A
>> without changes.
>>
>> What I suspect might be happening is that RMS Express might be
>> programmed to handle DATA A as if it were a USB version of AFSK A. In
>> AFSK A, the K3's dial displays the RTTY mark frequency, whereas in DATA
>> A the dial displays the suppressed carrier frequency. If the RMS Express
>> programmers assumed that in DATA A the radio's indicated frequency was
>> the center of the bandpass instead of the suppressed carrier frequency,
>> they would program it to tune the radio 1.5 kHz too high in DATA A.
>>
>> 73,
>> Rich VE3KI
>>
>> __
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>
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[Elecraft] Loaded K2 For Sale

[Ed G]

Selling my K2, has all the options except for 60M/XVTR.  S/N 3938, 15 watt
version carefully built by a QA Engineer; always kept and used in
non-smoking environment. Includes all Elecraft literature, manuals. Internal
battery with low cycles recently installed. Other installed options include:
KSB2 SSB, K160RX 160 Meter board/2nd antenna, KNB2 noise blanker, KDSP2
internal DSP filter, KAT2 internal ATU, finger dimple on knob, KIO2 RS-232
interface, 1.5 inch tilt stand. Alignment just verified with Spectrogram.
This K2 is in excellent condition. $1150 plus shipping TBD (shipping will be
actual cost, K2 will be double-boxed and shipped Priority).
--Ed--


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[W4GRJ]

Rich,

I understand the original question, I was just trying to simplify things by
explaining there is no need to switch modes.
This is very convenient on the MARS nets which are USB and we quickly switch
to MT63 for traffic.

Jack
W4GRJ / AFA4DG

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ferch
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 9:13 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

Yes, of course, but that is not in the least surprising. The question 
is: Why doesn't RMS Express work properly in DATA A mode? This is 
precisely the kind of application that DATA A was intended for.

73,
Rich VE3KI


On 02/01/2012 7:53 AM, W4GRJ wrote:
> I use RMS Express Winmor,  DSM780&  FlDigi MT63, Airmail Pactor and
MIL110A, they all work perfect with the rig left in USB.
>
> Jack
> W4GRJ / AFA4DG
>
> On Jan 2, 2012, at 3:43, Richard Ferch  wrote:
>
>> W4GRJ wrote:
>>
>>> Just leave the K3 in USB, do not change to data mode. RMS Express will
set to
>>> the correct freq. You will not have to make any adjustments.
>>
>> If this is correct, and RMS Express tunes to the correct frequency in
>> USB mode but not in DATA A mode, then there may be an error in RMS
>> Express. DATA A is exactly the same as USB except for disabling
>> compression and EQ and the default choice of input audio path (line in
>> instead of microphone). In particular, the frequency display in DATA A
>> and USB is the same. A setup that works in USB should work in DATA A
>> without changes.
>>
>> What I suspect might be happening is that RMS Express might be
>> programmed to handle DATA A as if it were a USB version of AFSK A. In
>> AFSK A, the K3's dial displays the RTTY mark frequency, whereas in DATA
>> A the dial displays the suppressed carrier frequency. If the RMS Express
>> programmers assumed that in DATA A the radio's indicated frequency was
>> the center of the bandpass instead of the suppressed carrier frequency,
>> they would program it to tune the radio 1.5 kHz too high in DATA A.
>>
>> 73,
>> Rich VE3KI
>>
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>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 AM filter wanted...

[George]

Looking for an AM filter.. Thank You..

George
NE2I
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Re: [Elecraft] How Long will it take to assemble a K3/100??

[Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft]

The power screwdrivers we use in the factory are high performance commercial 
units that have a finely adjustable torque clutch that limits how far each 
screw is tightened. This insures both a consistent assembly of the radio and 
that the screws are never overtightened.

We set it at a very low setting that is in fact lower than what most average 
people would manually tighten screws to. This actually is more reliable than 
manually tightening each screw. We carefully check this and also inspect 
assembled units for over-tightened screws.

Most, if not all, consumer level power screwdrivers can not be set for this low 
of a tightening torque, if they can be set at all.

73,
Eric

www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Jan 1, 2012, at 7:56 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire"  wrote:

> 4-40 screws are really quite easy to twist in half with a power screwdriver.
> That's easy to fix if you have a spare. It's also easy to rip the threads
> out of the PEM nuts. That's not so easy to fix. 
> 
> That's why Wayne was clear that we should specify *no* power screwdriver in
> the assembly manual. 
> 
> It sounds like the factory is pushing the envelope on the torque, at least
> on some of the screws. 
> 
> This doesn't appear to relate to your situation, but for those "reading the
> mail" out there, sometimes a panel screw will act stuck even though you know
> you didn't over-torque it at assembly. That's because the panels shift
> slightly as the screws are tightened, and one screw might bind against the
> hole. If one feels stuck, always loosen all the other screws holding the
> panel first and very often you'll find that the "stuck" screw comes out very
> easily. 
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike K2MK
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 5:11 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How Long will it take to assemble a K3/100??
> 
> Hi Dick,
> 
> As an owner of a 3 year old factory built K3 I kind of knew that they used
> "power screwdrivers" in the assembly. One day I plan to perform surgery on
> the one remaining front panel screw that I was unable to remove. Doing the
> DSP board swap was an adventure.
> 
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] IMD and 2.8 hz tx filter question

[goldtr8]

Dear All,

Since I am contemplating adding the sub-receiver I will need matched 
filters for diversity.

Currently I have the 2.7 Khz 5 pole and since filters need to be matched 
I was thinking to go directly to the 2.8 8 pole filters.

So in addition to the matching for RX easily with no offset, will this 
have any improvement in the TX IMD numbers.

Just curious.

Thanks

~73
Don
KD8NNU

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[Elecraft] K3/KPA500/KAT500 Functionality/Interface

[Richard Thorne]

I'm curious to how the KAT500 will interface with the KPA500.

For example, if the KAT500 goes into a tune cycle, will it interrupt the 
ptt line to the KPA-500 so its off line temporarily? Or will we have to 
put the KPA500 in stdby mode firrst then initiate a tune cycle?

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC
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[Elecraft] K2 errormessage

[Allan Glasdam]

Hi all and happy new year
When I tune my K2/10 on 10 mc I get the message: 2.04r 1.09.
Voltage is 13,6 0.35
Any ideas and solutions would be appriciated.
Allan, OZ8A
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Matt Zilmer]

Hi Joe,

Thanks.  The several MARS frequency matrix docs show center freq of
the 3 KHz channel.  However, RMS Express compensates for this by
subtracting 1.5 KHz so that the suppressed carrier frequency is sent,
via the FA command.

Example:
[CXR freq: 7059.0, center is shown as 7060.5]

  FA07059000;

I already instrumented this with Portmon, and it's correct.  My
interest here is to find a reason the K3 is set 1.5 KHz higher than
the CXR freq, but on RX only.  The TX freq is correct (the RMS replies
to initial call-ups).  Basically, I can't find the source of this
"bug", because everything looks fine from the computer side.

73,
matt W6NIA / NNN0UET

On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 17:09:21 -0500, you wrote:

>
>Matt,
>
>What does your frequency matrix say for "center of channel" and
>what is RMS Express setting for DATA A dial (USB carrier) frequency?
>
>In DATA A, the dial frequency is identical to the USB carrier
>frequency.
>
>73,
>
>... Joe, W4TV
>
>
>On 1/1/2012 4:25 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
>> Thanks, Joe.  I've been with MARS for a few years now and understand
>> the "channel center" frequency matrix.
>>
>> This is a case where the string setting the K3's carrier freq is
>> setting the correct value.  There is something odd at work here.
>>
>> matt
>>
>> On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 15:47:51 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Matt,
>>>
 I verified that the software is setting the correct carrier freq,
 based on the center freq cited by the MARS frequency matrix.  I was
 thinking along the same lines as your suggestion below.
>>>
>>> Standard practice in government operation - including MARS in recent
>>> years - is to specify the "center of channel" and *not* the USB dial
>>> frequency.  The two frequencies will differ by 1400 to 1500 Hz based
>>> on the particular assumptions used for the transmitter with 1500 Hz
>>> being slightly more common.
>>>
>>> I suspect you will find your MARS matrix specifies "center of channel"
>>> for all digital and any remaining CW networks while still giving USB
>>> suppressed carrier frequency for voice networks.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> ... Joe, W4TV
>>>
>>>
>>> On 1/1/2012 2:25 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
 Thanks for your reply, Bill.

 I verified that the software is setting the correct carrier freq,
 based on the center freq cited by the MARS frequency matrix.  I was
 thinking along the same lines as your suggestion below.

 If I use program control to set the freq, then I get TX + 1.5 KHz =
 RX.  This is with split disabled and RIT / XIT turned off.

 Temporarily, I'm manually setting the carrier freq to 1.5 KHz below
 center instead of relying on the control program to do this.  That
 solved the problem, but doesn't explain why the radio has carrier freq
 centered on the freq only under program control.

 Mysteries

 73,
 matt W6NIA / NNN0UET



 On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 13:21:51 -0500, you wrote:

> Well, this is normal for digital mode DATA A.  I'm not familiar with your
> particular software, but for PSK31 and similar modes, the K3 VFO A is set 
> to
> a frequency for the carrier.  The audio is on the upper sideband, and is
> centered in the 3 KHz passband which is 1.5kHz up from the carrier.  Thus
> the offset.  Some digital software has an allowance for an offset, but I'm
> not sure about yours.  You might check on this.
>
> Typically if operating on 20 meters with radio set to 14.070MHz, the
> waterfall will be full of traces at audio frequencies spread across the
> passband of your radio.  So you actual transmission freq is the sum of VFO
> plus the audio.
>
> ...bill  nr4c
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Matt Zilmer [mailto:mzil...@verizon.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 11:31 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior
>
> In all this time with K3 #24, I've never been stymied by any issue
> such as described below.
>
> I'm a Navy-Marine Corps MARS member.  We use RMS Express in the WL2K
> system on HF, running WL2K Winmor mode  The software I have is version
> 1.1.3.0.
>
> I also use LP Bridge to create two COM ports: one used for DTR (PTT)
> and the other for control, COM19 and COM20 respectively.  The sound
> card is an EMU 0202.
>
> The problem is this:  When RMS Express takes control of the K3,
> calling an RMS node on HF *always* results in the receive frequency
> being 1.5 KHz too high.  I've had to rotate the RIT between call-up
> transmissions to get the RX on frequency before the initial 5 attempts
> time out.  The TX frequency seems dead-on, because the RMS always
> answers - but RX is 1.5 KHz high.  And yes, I've tested with multiple
> RMS nodes, including my own NMCM RMS here at the shack.  Same problem
> occurs with each, so it's a setup issue wi

Re: [Elecraft] K2 errormessage

[Don Wilhelm]

Allan,

A brief display of the firmware level normally happens if you hold a 
button in when powering the K2 on.
You either have a button stuck (electrically or physically), or there is 
a soldering problem on the front panel.
Make certain pin 1 of Front Panel RP1 is soldered and that RP1 is 
oriented correctly (the dot on the package is next to the pin 1 location).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 10:02 AM, Allan Glasdam wrote:
> Hi all and happy new year
> When I tune my K2/10 on 10 mc I get the message: 2.04r 1.09.
> Voltage is 13,6 0.35
> Any ideas and solutions would be appriciated.
> Allan, OZ8A
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] IMD and 2.8 hz tx filter question

[Jim Brown]

On 1/2/2012 6:54 AM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
> Since I am contemplating adding the sub-receiver I will need matched
> filters for diversity.

Diversity is most useful for weak signal reception, where narrower 
filters are likely to be used. I would pay more attention to matching 
those narrow filters.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3. S/No:4250

[Rick Bates]

Are you using two antennas and the sub is on the other?  Diversity reception 
can sound like that. 

Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos

On Jan 2, 2012, at 2:57 AM, "Eric Buggee; VK3AX"  wrote:

> Hi Rick.
> Thank you for your reply.  I guess I should have 
> mentioned that!  I have done all of that, that is I have already 
> equalised the readout frequencies on both displays (main & Sub).  I have 
> also incremented either one -or-the other displays (main & Sub) by + or 
> - a least significant digit on both displays in fine mode.  The 
> whoosh-whoosh is at its slowest when both deaout displays (main & sub) 
> are numerically identical!
> Apologies for not stating that in my original posting, but, I did not 
> wish to be seen as being too wordy!
> Yes already tried all of that and as I said when I cal the TCXO 
> carefully after about a one hour warm-up (stabilisation period, the 
> whoosh-whoosh is at its slowest and gradually drifts out to being faster 
> until after a period of about 4 to 6 weeks it becomes annoying. It goes 
> from one in approx 10 seconds to about 0.5 second period; believe me it 
> is Damn annoying!
> 
> Hence the reason for this posting.  I have been a Ham for over 50 years 
> and have built my own gear (both valve & solid state.  Currently 
> finishing the (slow) assembly of a PicaStar rig which I started about 3 
> years back.
> 
> Thanks Rick and any others out there in K3 land I will appreciate your 
> comments!
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Eric,
> 
> VK3AX.
> 
> 
> On 1/2/2012 5:36 PM, Rick Bates [via Elecraft] wrote:
>> Try TAPping the FINE button to show as many numerals as you can, on 
>> both the
>> main and sub receiver (use the A/B to switch back and forth).  Then make
>> sure that they BOTH have EXACTLY, to the last numeral, the same value.
>> 
>> That should take care of the problem.
>> 
>> Rick WA6NHC
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Eric Buggee; VK3AX
>> 
> When I engage the SUB Rx on our early morning net freq of 1859KHz I 
> get a
>> soft repetitive whoosh -whoosh sound form the stereo speakers, almost 
>> as if
>> there were a slow BEAT between the frequency of the two receivers, 
>> this is
>> audible even if there is no signal on frequency or not.  This 
>> phenomenon is
>> NOT as pronounced if the two Rx are tuned to a frequency ending in a 
>> round
>> number (say 1860KHz) but is still there and JUST tolerable!
>> 
>> 
>> __
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>> 
>> 
>> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the 
>> discussion below:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-S-No-4250-tp7143174p7143197.html
>> To unsubscribe from K3. S/No:4250, click here 
>> .
>> NAML 
>> 
>>  
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-S-No-4250-tp7143174p7143506.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

John, that is a common question.

The KAT3 is providing a 1:1 SWR between the KAT3 and the PA *inside* the K3
so the K3's PA is 'seeing' the correct load. The KAT3 cannot change the
impedance of the antenna presented to the ANT connector. 

You didn't say how much coax ran from the K3 to the Palstar. For an accurate
comparison it should be zero (use an adapter) or at most an couple of inches
of coax.

You can replace the antenna with a good dummy load, and they should read
much closer, although most dummy loads have some error as well, nor are SWR
meters precision instruments; they don't need to be for efficient
transmission line operation at H.F. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Dziedziejko
Sent: 02 January 2012 04:13
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

I installed the KAT3 over the weekend and the construction and calibration
was successful. This evening I hooked everything back up to check reception,
tuning and swr. I have it set to AUTO, when I tap the ATU TUNE switch the
tuner does its thing and I read a 1.0:1 swr on the K3 meter. I have a
Palstar Wattmeter installed between the K3 and the antenna and for some
reason I am getting a high swr on the Palstar meter of 5:1 and don't
understand why. I have a multiband vertical antenna with a 4:1 Unun at the
base of the antenna. Am I missing something here?

A little hand holding would be appreciated.

Regards,

John W9QP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> Basically, I can't find the source of this "bug", because everything
> looks fine from the computer side.

I believe you will find the "bug" in the order in which RMS Express
sends the commands to the rig.  Changing mode after setting frequency
and changing data dub-mode after setting frequency *can* result in
offsets.  In particular, if the digital mode was AFSK or FSK (DT1;
or DT2;) switching to DATA A (DT0;) will result in frequency change.
The magnitude of that change will depend on the selected RTTY MARK
frequency.

Note particularly that the displayed frequency does not change but
the carrier oscillator (and sideband) do change when switching from
AFSK A to DATA A.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 1/2/2012 10:13 AM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
> Hi Joe,
>
> Thanks.  The several MARS frequency matrix docs show center freq of
> the 3 KHz channel.  However, RMS Express compensates for this by
> subtracting 1.5 KHz so that the suppressed carrier frequency is sent,
> via the FA command.
>
> Example:
> [CXR freq: 7059.0, center is shown as 7060.5]
>
>FA07059000;
>
> I already instrumented this with Portmon, and it's correct.  My
> interest here is to find a reason the K3 is set 1.5 KHz higher than
> the CXR freq, but on RX only.  The TX freq is correct (the RMS replies
> to initial call-ups).  Basically, I can't find the source of this
> "bug", because everything looks fine from the computer side.
>
> 73,
> matt W6NIA / NNN0UET
>
> On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 17:09:21 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Matt,
>>
>> What does your frequency matrix say for "center of channel" and
>> what is RMS Express setting for DATA A dial (USB carrier) frequency?
>>
>> In DATA A, the dial frequency is identical to the USB carrier
>> frequency.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> ... Joe, W4TV
>>
>>
>> On 1/1/2012 4:25 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
>>> Thanks, Joe.  I've been with MARS for a few years now and understand
>>> the "channel center" frequency matrix.
>>>
>>> This is a case where the string setting the K3's carrier freq is
>>> setting the correct value.  There is something odd at work here.
>>>
>>> matt
>>>
>>> On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 15:47:51 -0500, you wrote:
>>>

 Matt,

> I verified that the software is setting the correct carrier freq,
> based on the center freq cited by the MARS frequency matrix.  I was
> thinking along the same lines as your suggestion below.

 Standard practice in government operation - including MARS in recent
 years - is to specify the "center of channel" and *not* the USB dial
 frequency.  The two frequencies will differ by 1400 to 1500 Hz based
 on the particular assumptions used for the transmitter with 1500 Hz
 being slightly more common.

 I suspect you will find your MARS matrix specifies "center of channel"
 for all digital and any remaining CW networks while still giving USB
 suppressed carrier frequency for voice networks.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 1/1/2012 2:25 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
> Thanks for your reply, Bill.
>
> I verified that the software is setting the correct carrier freq,
> based on the center freq cited by the MARS frequency matrix.  I was
> thinking along the same lines as your suggestion below.
>
> If I use program control to set the freq, then I get TX + 1.5 KHz =
> RX.  This is with split disabled and RIT / XIT turned off.
>
> Temporarily, I'm manually setting the carrier freq to 1.5 KHz below
> center instead of relying on the control program to do this.  That
> solved the problem, but doesn't explain why the radio has carrier freq
> centered on the freq only under program control.
>
> Mysteries
>
> 73,
> matt W6NIA / NNN0UET
>
>
>
> On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 13:21:51 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Well, this is normal for digital mode DATA A.  I'm not familiar with your
>> particular software, but for PSK31 and similar modes, the K3 VFO A is 
>> set to
>> a frequency for the carrier.  The audio is on the upper sideband, and is
>> centered in the 3 KHz passband which is 1.5kHz up from the carrier.  Thus
>> the offset.  Some digital software has an allowance for an offset, but 
>> I'm
>> not sure about yours.  You might check on this.
>>
>> Typically if operating on 20 meters with radio set to 14.070MHz, the
>> waterfall will be full of traces at audio frequencies spread across the
>> passband of your radio.  So you actual transmission freq is the sum of 
>> VFO
>> plus the audio.
>>
>> ...bill  nr4c
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Matt Zilmer [mailto:mzil...@verizon.net]
>> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 11:31 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior
>>
>> In all this time with K3 #24, I've never been stymied by any issue
>> such as described below.
>>
>> I'm a

[Elecraft] K3 CW TEXT Decoder

[Natale Borghetti]

HNY to All

I have noticed from some days, that my K3 CW text decoder some time stop 
decodingCW, without any apparent reason..after some time..it start 
decoding again.

I have already try with different thresholds...but without results.

Seems something coming and going...

Any suggestions and help on this strange behavior ??

Thanks


Natale Borghetti

I5NPH

i5...@i5nph.net 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> You didn't say how much coax ran from the K3 to the Palstar. For an
> accurate comparison it should be zero (use an adapter) or at most an
> couple of inches of coax.

It the KAT3 is in use one can *never* compare the SWR displayed by the
K3 and that displayed by an external SWR bridge/wattmeter since there
will be an *impedance changing device* (the KAT3) between the K3's SWR
detector and the external SWR detector even if the length of coax is
zero.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 1/2/2012 11:27 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> John, that is a common question.
>
> The KAT3 is providing a 1:1 SWR between the KAT3 and the PA *inside* the K3
> so the K3's PA is 'seeing' the correct load. The KAT3 cannot change the
> impedance of the antenna presented to the ANT connector.
>
> You didn't say how much coax ran from the K3 to the Palstar. For an accurate
> comparison it should be zero (use an adapter) or at most an couple of inches
> of coax.
>
> You can replace the antenna with a good dummy load, and they should read
> much closer, although most dummy loads have some error as well, nor are SWR
> meters precision instruments; they don't need to be for efficient
> transmission line operation at H.F.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Dziedziejko
> Sent: 02 January 2012 04:13
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question
>
> I installed the KAT3 over the weekend and the construction and calibration
> was successful. This evening I hooked everything back up to check reception,
> tuning and swr. I have it set to AUTO, when I tap the ATU TUNE switch the
> tuner does its thing and I read a 1.0:1 swr on the K3 meter. I have a
> Palstar Wattmeter installed between the K3 and the antenna and for some
> reason I am getting a high swr on the Palstar meter of 5:1 and don't
> understand why. I have a multiband vertical antenna with a 4:1 Unun at the
> base of the antenna. Am I missing something here?
>
> A little hand holding would be appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> John W9QP
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW TEXT Decoder

[Jim Brown]

On 1/2/2012 8:49 AM, Natale Borghetti wrote:
> I have noticed from some days, that my K3 CW text decoder some time stop
> decodingCW, without any apparent reason..after some time..it start
> decoding again.

As luck would have it, this happened to me yesterday with JT65-HF. Guys 
with good signals were calling me and nothing would decode. After 
tearing my hair out for several hours, I discovered the cause -- I had 
accidentally turned on AFX while intending to switch digital modes (I 
was switching to AFSK to work an RTTY DX spot). I turned it off and 
decoding began working again.  I have no idea if that would matter for 
CW decode, but it's something to look at.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] IMD and 2.8 hz tx filter question

[Bill W4ZV]

goldtr8 wrote
> 
> Dear All,
> 
> Since I am contemplating adding the sub-receiver I will need matched 
> filters for diversity.
> 
> Currently I have the 2.7 Khz 5 pole and since filters need to be matched 
> I was thinking to go directly to the 2.8 8 pole filters.
> 

For unmatched 2.7k SSB filters, simply set both offsets to the average of
the two (e.g. for -0.79 and -0.85, set both to -0.82).  You'll never notice
30 Hz shift in a ~2800 Hz filter (actual BW of 5-pole 2.7k) and you'll save
$300.

RX IMD is not a real issue on SSB since TX IMD (i.e. splatter from SSB
signals being received) is about 60 dB worse.  Even if it was, there's
little difference in RX IMD performance between 5-pole and 8-pole filters
(maybe 1-2 dB for narrow CW filters).

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[GW0ETF]

John,

No harm to leave the external meter in line, just don't use it's readings..

I have a Palstar ATU in line for when I use my amp with my multi-band
doublet. When the amp is not switched in I'll often bypass the ATU and use
the KAT3. The swr meter in the Palstar atu is still in-line however and will
indicate forward and reflected powers consistent with whatever swr is on the
line between the KAT3 and antenna; the swr reading on the K3 is all that
matters in this case but the external meter is not doing any harm

73,

Stewart, GW0ETF


John Dziedziejko wrote
> 
> Thanks for the responses, will take the Palstar out and hook the antenna
> directly to the K3 and go by the K3's swr meter and power output
> indications.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> John W9QP
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Quite right Joe, since, as I said, the KAT3 is providing a low SWR between
the KAT3 and PA *inside* the K3. 

Now for another cup of coffee...

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

> You didn't say how much coax ran from the K3 to the Palstar. For an
> accurate comparison it should be zero (use an adapter) or at most an
> couple of inches of coax.

It the KAT3 is in use one can *never* compare the SWR displayed by the
K3 and that displayed by an external SWR bridge/wattmeter since there
will be an *impedance changing device* (the KAT3) between the K3's SWR
detector and the external SWR detector even if the length of coax is
zero.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

[james1787]

Hi Folks,
I just finished putting together my KX1 with the ATU. I am having a problem 
with it on 20m when using it through my shack tuner (viking matchbox to a 
dipole up 60-70 ft). As the manual states, I place the tuner into CAL to bypass 
the tuner. The problem is that it seems kind of quiet. I listen to a loud S-9 
signal on my IC-746pro and it is much quieter on the KX1. For kick's I placed 
it in the tuner-on setting and hit tune. It tuned for a seconds and now it's 
louder. I tapped the key and it went back to being quiet. 
?
I didn't seem to notice this on 40m last night and made a few QSO's. 
?
Just wondering where I might check to see that everything is ok. I wonder if C9 
on the ATU is set correctly? With my DMM I was able to get the voltage down to 
almost zero. 
?
Thanks & 73,
James KB2FCV

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Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

I am not sure from your prblem description whether you have a KX1 
receiver problem or a KXAT1 problem or some sort of setup problem with 
your shack tuner.

First thing to do is to peak the KX1 receiver front end, and you remove 
the tuner (put the jumper in) and connect it to a signal generator or to 
an antenna that presents close to a 50 ohm load.

Do the following things in order:
You have a shack tuner, so I suggest you set it for a 1:1 SWR - you can 
do that with another transmitter or with an antenna analyzer - set it up 
first for 20 meters.

Once you have a 50 ohm signal source connected to the KX1 input, peak 
the 20A and 20B trimmers for the maximum output from the KX1.   Re-tune 
your shack tuner to 40 meters, then connect the KX1 and peak the 40 
meter trimmer - it must be done in that band order, reversing it will 
only lead to frustration.

After having done that, you can remove the jumper and install the KXAT1 
and set ATU to CAL
First connect a good 50 ohm dummy load and balance (null) the wattmeter 
with the trimmer capacitor.  If you can obtain a good low millivolts 
reading, that is good - above .010 volts is bad, below .003 volts may be 
the best you can do.

With the KXAT1 still in CAL, again tune your shack tuner to 50 ohms on 
20 - now you can compare the KX1 receive with you other receiver.  Then 
set the ATU menu to "tun" and it should tune to less than 1.2 and you 
should still be able to hear signals at the same level as before

Switch your shack tuner to 40 meters and do the same as you did on 20.

After doing that, if you still have a problem, ask again.

On 1/2/2012 12:34 PM, james1...@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> I just finished putting together my KX1 with the ATU. I am having a problem 
> with it on 20m when using it through my shack tuner (viking matchbox to a 
> dipole up 60-70 ft). As the manual states, I place the tuner into CAL to 
> bypass the tuner. The problem is that it seems kind of quiet. I listen to a 
> loud S-9 signal on my IC-746pro and it is much quieter on the KX1. For kick's 
> I placed it in the tuner-on setting and hit tune. It tuned for a seconds and 
> now it's louder. I tapped the key and it went back to being quiet.
> ?
> I didn't seem to notice this on 40m last night and made a few QSO's.
> ?
> Just wondering where I might check to see that everything is ok. I wonder if 
> C9 on the ATU is set correctly? With my DMM I was able to get the voltage 
> down to almost zero.
> ?
> Thanks&  73,
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Dave]

I also have a meter between my K3 and my antenna.  The AWESOME tuner in the K3 
keeps the radio happy, while the external meter will show, at a glance if there 
has been any significant change in the antenna itself.
Dave - K9FN

Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&T

GW0ETF  wrote:

>John,
>
>No harm to leave the external meter in line, just don't use it's readings..
>
>I have a Palstar ATU in line for when I use my amp with my multi-band
>doublet. When the amp is not switched in I'll often bypass the ATU and use
>the KAT3. The swr meter in the Palstar atu is still in-line however and will
>indicate forward and reflected powers consistent with whatever swr is on the
>line between the KAT3 and antenna; the swr reading on the K3 is all that
>matters in this case but the external meter is not doing any harm
>
>73,
>
>Stewart, GW0ETF
>
>
>John Dziedziejko wrote
>> 
>> Thanks for the responses, will take the Palstar out and hook the antenna
>> directly to the K3 and go by the K3's swr meter and power output
>> indications.
>> 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> John W9QP
>> 
>> 
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>
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[Elecraft] IF tap?

[Steve KC8QVO]

Is there a good place to tap the IF stream for an output? I have a spectrum
analyzer and was thinking of running an IF-out to the analyzer, it doesn't
matter what frequency if its under a gig. 

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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

You did not say which transceiver you have, so we can't really answer 
except to say that the K3 does have an IF output if you install the KXV3 
option.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 1:51 PM, Steve KC8QVO wrote:
> Is there a good place to tap the IF stream for an output? I have a spectrum
> analyzer and was thinking of running an IF-out to the analyzer, it doesn't
> matter what frequency if its under a gig.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Mike Morrow]

> Is there a good place to tap the IF stream for an output?

Are you asking this about a Wells-Gardner BC-348-R?

For some reason, it always seems to help if the applicable radio
is identified. :-)

Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[Roy Morris]

I am using two speakers with my K3.  My plug fits loosely into the 
STEREO/MONO  jack, and I have to be careful when I touch it or I lose the 
audio in one or both.  I have looked through the owners manual and do not 
find the size of this plug.  I would appreciate this information.  Thanks, 
Roy  W4WFB 

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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Steve KC8QVO]

I figured the radio was implied since I posted in the K2 forum  In any event,
its a K2 SN 6950. I'm just looking for a constant frequency I can use
post-VFO to run through my spectrum analyzer so I can see the band I'm on. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

[james1787]

Hi Don,
I followed your instructions and did the following:
I removed my ATU from the KX1 and put the jumper in place.
With my shack tuner, using my Icom I tuned it for a perfectly?flat SWR on 20 
meters.
I moved the coax from my Icom to my KX1.
I peaked the 20a and 20b trimmers
I moved the coax back to my icom and tuned the shack tuner for 40 meters
I moved the coax back to my KX1 and peaked the 40 trimmer
I removed the jumper in the KX1 and re-installed the ATU and set it to CAL.
I connected the KX1 to my dummy load (Bird ERI-003F 150 watt 50 ohm dummy load)
I changed bands on the KX1 to 20m
I proceeded to adjust trimmer capacitor C9. 
I was able to get the voltage to .000 (it had a range from about 2.9 volts and 
bottomed out at .000). 
The power meter was only showing about 2.8 watts and the SWR showed 1.0
I connected my icom back up and re-tuned the antenna for 20m
I moved the coax from my icom back to my kx1.
With the KX1 still in cal, I pressed tune. Now the power was showing about 1.9 
watts and 9.9 (infinite) SWR. 
I moved the from the KX1 to my icom and tuned the antenna for 40m. 
I changed bands on the KX1 to 40m
I moved the antenna from my icom back to the kx1 and made sure it was stil on 
CAL. I pressed tune and it was showing 2.9 watts out and 1.0 swr. 
?
These are the results. I'm not sure if I was supposed to see it dip to .000 
volts or not. 
It definitely appears the issue is something with 20m. I wish I had a wattmeter 
for QRP to see what the power/swr was doing without the ATU on 20m. 
Also, I have a 13.8 volt supply connected, 3 watts sounds a bit low? 
?
73,
James KB2FCV
?




-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: james1787 
Cc: elecraft 
Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 1:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly




James, 
  
 I am not sure from your prblem description whether you have a KX1  
 receiver problem or a KXAT1 problem or some sort of setup problem with  
 your shack tuner. 
  
 First thing to do is to peak the KX1 receiver front end, and you remove  
 the tuner (put the jumper in) and connect it to a signal generator or to  
 an antenna that presents close to a 50 ohm load. 
  
 Do the following things in order: 
 You have a shack tuner, so I suggest you set it for a 1:1 SWR - you can  
 do that with another transmitter or with an antenna analyzer - set it up  
 first for 20 meters. 
  
 Once you have a 50 ohm signal source connected to the KX1 input, peak  
 the 20A and 20B trimmers for the maximum output from the KX1.   Re-tune  
 your shack tuner to 40 meters, then connect the KX1 and peak the 40  
 meter trimmer - it must be done in that band order, reversing it will  
 only lead to frustration. 
  
 After having done that, you can remove the jumper and install the KXAT1  
 and set ATU to CAL 
 First connect a good 50 ohm dummy load and balance (null) the wattmeter  
 with the trimmer capacitor.  If you can obtain a good low millivolts  
 reading, that is good - above .010 volts is bad, below .003 volts may be  
 the best you can do. 
  
 With the KXAT1 still in CAL, again tune your shack tuner to 50 ohms on  
 20 - now you can compare the KX1 receive with you other receiver.  Then  
 set the ATU menu to "tun" and it should tune to less than 1.2 and you  
 should still be able to hear signals at the same level as before 
  
 Switch your shack tuner to 40 meters and do the same as you did on 20. 
  
 After doing that, if you still have a problem, ask again. 
  
 On 1/2/2012 12:34 PM, james1...@aol.com wrote: 
 > Hi Folks, 
 > I just finished putting together my KX1 with the ATU. I am having a 
problem  
 with it on 20m when using it through my shack tuner (viking matchbox to a 
dipole  
 up 60-70 ft). As the manual states, I place the tuner into CAL to bypass the  
 tuner. The problem is that it seems kind of quiet. I listen to a loud S-9 
signal  
 on my IC-746pro and it is much quieter on the KX1. For kick's I placed it in 
the  
 tuner-on setting and hit tune. It tuned for a seconds and now it's louder. I  
 tapped the key and it went back to being quiet. 
 > ? 
 > I didn't seem to notice this on 40m last night and made a few QSO's. 
 > ? 
 > Just wondering where I might check to see that everything is ok. I wonder 
if  
 C9 on the ATU is set correctly? With my DMM I was able to get the voltage down 
 
 to almost zero. 
 > ? 
 > Thanks&  73, 
 > 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I believe it's 3.5 mm - not 1/8"
73 de M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
-- 
Write the bad things that are done to you in the sand, but write the 
good things that happen to you on a piece of marble. -Arabian wisdom

On 2 Jan 2012, at 19:45, Roy Morris wrote:

> I am using two speakers with my K3.  My plug fits loosely into the 
> STEREO/MONO  jack, and I have to be careful when I touch it or I lose the 
> audio in one or both.  I have looked through the owners manual and do not 
> find the size of this plug.  I would appreciate this information.  Thanks, 
> Roy  W4WFB 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: data modes - bizarre behavior

[Dr. Werner Furlan]

I use Airmail and RMS Express and both work as they should in Pactor 1-4 mode.
RMS Express version is 1.1.3.0.  Controller is a SCS DR-7800 P4 Dragon 

I recommend to use DATA Mode in the K3 for Pactor. 
DATA Mode should be set to DATA A, USB. 
You should set RMS Express to use DATA USB.
You  should enable SYNC DT in the K3 Main Menu. (a function key has to be set)
Use Line in/out to connect the transceiver to the modem. 
Use PSKA and FSKA settings around 800-1000 mV. 
Adjust LINE IN Gain until you see ALC 3-4 bars flickering when you transmit.
Mic SEL must be set to LINE IN. 

The dial frequency on the K3 will be set to Center - 1.5 khz. 
If you use the predefined frequency tables in RMS Express, you will have the 
correct 
frequency set (RX and TX will be the same frequency and mode) - unless you 
activate split or 
RIT/XIT what you should not do of course.

I have successfully worked with many stations since a long time with these 
settings. 
I do not believe that there is a problem with RMS Express in the current 
version in this 
respect. (there are problems, but different from the reported here)

The K3 is an excellent transceiver for Pactor. It is the best I ever had :-)

73!
Werner oe9fwv


On 2 Jan 2012 at 7:53, W4GRJ wrote:

> I use RMS Express Winmor,  DSM780 & FlDigi MT63, Airmail Pactor and
> MIL110A, they all work perfect with the rig left in USB.
> 
> Jack
> W4GRJ / AFA4DG
> 
> On Jan 2, 2012, at 3:43, Richard Ferch  wrote:
> 
> > W4GRJ wrote:
> > 
> >> Just leave the K3 in USB, do not change to data mode. RMS Express
> >> will set to the correct freq. You will not have to make any
> >> adjustments.
> > 
> > If this is correct, and RMS Express tunes to the correct frequency
> > in USB mode but not in DATA A mode, then there may be an error in
> > RMS Express. DATA A is exactly the same as USB except for disabling
> > compression and EQ and the default choice of input audio path (line
> > in instead of microphone). In particular, the frequency display in
> > DATA A and USB is the same. A setup that works in USB should work in
> > DATA A without changes.
> > 
> > What I suspect might be happening is that RMS Express might be
> > programmed to handle DATA A as if it were a USB version of AFSK A.
> > In AFSK A, the K3's dial displays the RTTY mark frequency, whereas
> > in DATA A the dial displays the suppressed carrier frequency. If the
> > RMS Express programmers assumed that in DATA A the radio's indicated
> > frequency was the center of the bandpass instead of the suppressed
> > carrier frequency, they would program it to tune the radio 1.5 kHz
> > too high in DATA A.
> > 
> > 73,
> > Rich VE3KI
> > 
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> 
> 


-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Barry Garratt]

John,

The VSWR will still be the same as you read on Palstar. What you are seeing
on the K3 is the VSWR being presented to the K3 PA stage. It's not the
actual VSWR on the system as a whole. That VSWR is what the Palstar is
seeing.

Barry KS7DX


-Original Message-
From: John Dziedziejko [mailto:dziedziej...@bellsouth.net] 
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 8:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

Thanks for the responses, will take the Palstar out and hook the antenna
directly to the K3 and go by the K3's swr meter and power output
indications.

Best regards,

John W9QP




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 performance numbers

[Bill Tubbs]

Wayne,

I've been lurking since I ordered the KX3 and have been watching the
interesting dialog/multilog going on re: additional/changing features on the
rig. What is the point at which Elecraft locks in all the specs.  and
features for the KX3? I don't know anything about manufacturing processes
but it seems that with about 2 months to go (nominally) it's getting pretty
close, no?

The corollary to this question is (and I've not owned an Elecraft product
before, except for my T-1 AT), do features get changed or updated
periodically after sale and if so, is it easy to upgrade and maintain
currency?

Thanks!

Bill
WK6A


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for January 1st & 2nd, 2012

[kevinr]

Good Afternoon,
Both nets went pretty well last night.  Forty meters had some QRN 
but that is normal for this time of year.  QSB was mild in most cases 
adding only a flutter.  Remember to QNZ (zero beat net control).  If you 
don't you fall outside of my filter's skirts making copy ESP or worse.  
When I begin the nets I find an open frequency on or near the announced 
frequency.  Please zero beat or I may not be able to hear you.  I cannot 
run with my filters wide open because of the QRN and the QRM of 
neighboring operators.  Yesterday I used RIT to track down the off 
frequency operator but this means taking my attention from what is being 
said and adding more operations per contact.  Please remember to zero 
beat me before you call.

 Weather has returned to Oregon normal: wet, grey, and not very 
cold.  After the very dry autumn we experienced this moisture is 
refilling the streams and hopefully preventing fires next summer.  Only 
a day of light snow when the cold from the north pushed the western 
stream of clouds south.  I saw some sun but had colder temperatures.  
Currently it is raining enough to block most of the sound of the local 
gunfire.  Guess folks are practicing with their new Christmas guns :)

On to the lists =>

   On 14050.5 kHz at 2300z:
AC5P - Mike - OK - K3 - 2170
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 21
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686  way off net frequency
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
KN5L - John - TX - K3 - 4448
W0WG - Red ? - MN
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
KH6KM/KL7 - Kelly - HI - K

   On 7045.5 kHz at 0100z:
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
KN5L - John - TX - K3 - 4448
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686  way off net frequency

Hopefully I got the calls correct.  The wide variety of speeds and 
fists makes copying you all an interesting experience :)  I need to move 
a few more of my rigs closer to the fire so operating them during the 
winter is not so unpleasant.  However, this desk has far too many 
monitors, keyboards, and mice on it to give me much room for a set of 
paddles or my straight key.  Plus I don't have a window in front of me 
to watch the critters as I operate.  I dream of building a shack out 
back which has an operating location for my radio gear along with plenty 
of space for my computer and electronics work.  Then I will have my 
window right in front of my rig so I can watch the world as I work it on 
the air.

Until next week stay well,
   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS   (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

-


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 performance numbers

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Bill,

Both the manual and firmware will continue to be updated long after we  
first start shipping. Something magic happens when hundreds of people  
start using a radio -- special requests, new features, improvements.

Of course the firmware updates and revised manuals are available for  
free download on our web site.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jan 2, 2012, at 12:36 PM, Bill Tubbs wrote:

> Wayne,
>
> I've been lurking since I ordered the KX3 and have been watching the
> interesting dialog/multilog going on re: additional/changing  
> features on the
> rig. What is the point at which Elecraft locks in all the specs.  and
> features for the KX3? I don't know anything about manufacturing  
> processes
> but it seems that with about 2 months to go (nominally) it's getting  
> pretty
> close, no?
>
> The corollary to this question is (and I've not owned an Elecraft  
> product
> before, except for my T-1 AT), do features get changed or updated
> periodically after sale and if so, is it easy to upgrade and maintain
> currency?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bill
> WK6A
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

This Elecraft email reflector stopped being the K2 reflector as soon as 
the K1 was available, and now there are questions about the K3, K2, K1, 
KX1, now the KX3, KPA500, KRC2, mini-modules, and any other product that 
Elecraft has produced or has announced for the future.

Clifton Labs Z1-K2 buffer can be installed in the K2 to provide 
IFoutput for your spectrum analyzer.  Look at 
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 3:05 PM, Steve KC8QVO wrote:
> I figured the radio was implied since I posted in the K2 forum  In any event,
> its a K2 SN 6950. I'm just looking for a constant frequency I can use
> post-VFO to run through my spectrum analyzer so I can see the band I'm on.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Anybody Ever Used an Emmerson Microphone?

[Lou Kolb]

Mike,

Just the other day, I heard someone on the air talking about the ATR-30 and, 
acording to them, it's been replaced by a mic with only minor differences. 
I can't recall what the model number was exactly but it might've been the 
3700 or something like that.  So apparently, it's been dressed up and 
renamed but is still around.
Lou Kolb
Voice-over Artist:
Radio/TV Adds, Video narrations
Messages On-hold:
www.loukolb.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Duke, K5XU" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 3:31 PM
Subject: Anybody Ever Used an Emmerson Microphone?


> Awhile back, I went looking for the Audio Technica ATR30 microphone
> which some on this list have used, only to find that they stopped
> producing that microphone last February.
>
> My local Sears store is among those which will be closed, probably by
> April or May of this year, as announced late last week.
>
> This weekend, as my wife and I rambled through the store, I saw a
> stack of Emerson dynamic microphones. I believe the model is M189.
>
> These look to be your basic nothing fancy hand held vocal type
> microphone, with the 3 pin XLR type connector. They are supplied with
> an appropriate cable that has the XLR on one end, and a 1/4 inch male
> plug on the other.
>
> The specs list the frequency response as 80 hz - 11 khz, with a 620
> ohm impedance. My store has them for $8.95. I think the regular price
> is $13.95.
>
> They are apparently made as extra microphones for a karaoki box that
> Emerson sells.
>
> If you have used this microphone, please let me know what you think of
> it.
>
>
>
> Mike Duke, K5XU
> American Council of Blind Radio Amateurs 

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[Elecraft] Noise sources

[kevinr]

For those of you interested in tracking down sources of household RF 
noise here is an article describing one source you may not have 
considered: cellular telephone chargers.  Modern cell phones have become 
thinner and thinner and are commonly recharged via a USB connection.  A 
comprehensive article in EE Times is available here:

www.eetimes.com/4230239

73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Leroy Marion]

Or to your softrock  for a panadaptor.  Clifton Labs
has high quailty/easy to build IF ports. I put one
together in my K2, it works excellent.

Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 2:01 PM
To: Steve KC8QVO
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

Steve,

This Elecraft email reflector stopped being the K2 reflector as soon as
the K1 was available, and now there are questions about the K3, K2, K1,
KX1, now the KX3, KPA500, KRC2, mini-modules, and any other product that
Elecraft has produced or has announced for the future.

Clifton Labs Z1-K2 buffer can be installed in the K2 to provide
IFoutput for your spectrum analyzer.  Look at
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 3:05 PM, Steve KC8QVO wrote:
> I figured the radio was implied since I posted in the K2 forum  In any 
> event,
> its a K2 SN 6950. I'm just looking for a constant frequency I can use
> post-VFO to run through my spectrum analyzer so I can see the band I'm on.
>
>
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[Elecraft] Helpful Subject Line Info

[Mike Morrow]

Don wrote:

> This Elecraft email reflector stopped being the K2 reflector as soon as 
> the K1 was available...

Which was almost 12 years ago...the K1 was announced in Spring 2000!

It is very helpful when the subject line contains the device model in
brackets, like: 
  "[KNB1] What sets noise threshold?"
  or
  "[K1] What sets KNB1 noise threshold?"

But while we're going back in time, it should be remembered that the K1
had a very long (more than five months) lead time between announcement and
first deliveries.  I ordered mine just after Dayton, 2000, and received
K1 SN 175 in very late November.  I'd say that the lead time for the KX3
looks very good, given that it's at least an order of magnitude more complex.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K60XV 0dBm output

[John D'Ausilio]

Well, for those following along I've figured this out ..

Backstory: I rove in V/U/uW contests with 11 bands, using a pair of
K2s as IF radios, a stack of XVs for low 4 bands, and a collection of
surplus, commercial, and homebrew stuff for the microwaves through 24G

Last winter's project was a move of the IF from 144 to 145MHz, but I
did this by tuning the K2 up to 29.1 and didn't pay attention to the
fact that it's only supposed to go up to 28.8 .. the net effect being
reduction in RX and TX both. I discovered this when I was working on
the level conversion project .. I couldn't get much power from the uW
K2. The low-band K2 was fine, with it's IF at 28.1, and that's when I
realized what was going on.

I ended up applying Sverre's 10M filter mod and tuning 10 up to 29.1
.. I now get +2dBm at 29.1 and just a tad under +1dBm at 28.1, which
is exactly what I need :)

de w1rt/john

On Thu, Dec 29, 2011 at 9:42 PM, John D'Ausilio  wrote:
> Hi List ..
>
> My winter project for the Jitney is to convert my 144 IF levels to
> 0dBm up to the transverters to avoid horrible disasters that were
> happening with +30dBm IF levels ;)
>
> I've got my microwave station ripped out of the Jitney and on the
> bench, and I'm going through everything setting levels before I start
> modifying stuff. I noticed that I could only get about -6dBm maximum
> out of the K60XV in tune mode and discovered that that limitation was
> caused by the autotuner being enabled so I fixed that.
>
> The most I can make come out of the thing in tune mode now is about
> -4dBm (0.4mW) ... and this is with the transverter band output levels
> set to 1.27mW (+1dBm). R6 in my KAT2 doesn't seem have any effect
> (it's at 470R now). I'm measuring with my trusty but idiosyncratic
> General Microwave 476 power meter, which is pretty much right on the
> money at 28MHz.
>
> Anyone have any ideas where to look? I'm going to go grab the VHF/UHF
> K2 and check it next ..
>
> de w1rt/john
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[Elecraft] Elecraft [OT] Visalia Hamfest

[Doug Turnbull]

Dear OMs and Yls,
 I am considering along with K1VGF skipping Dayton this year and
visiting the Visalia Hamfest but I am looking for some information.I
understand that Elecraft is sponsoring the Contest University which is an
event I would want to attend but I know little else about this event.   So
perhaps some of the W6 land crew might fill me in:

1)The Contest University is on the Friday.   Is it April 20?

2)Does the Hamfest run on both Saturday and Sunday and how big an event is
it?   Crudely what is the size of this event in comparison to Dayton in
percent terms?   I doubt there are any dinners but perhaps this is not the
case and if there are I would like to know about them.

3) Is Fresno the best airport to fly into?   Are there any other nearby
airports to consider?   We would be flying from Connecticut and I understand
that AA has flights from Hartford via Dallas.

4) Does the Hamfest take place in the Holiday Inn as I believe the Contest
University does?   Does anyone have contact details for this Hotel and yes I
can search on line.

   Any information would be most welcome and you be the judge as to
whether it should be sent off the reflector.   I am not trying to annoy
others but saw mention of this a few weeks back and started thinking.   Now
I can not find the original message.   A quick search of the internet has so
far not turned up very much regarding the 2012 event.

73 Doug EI2CN





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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[Jim Brown]

On 1/2/2012 11:45 AM, Roy Morris wrote:
> I am using two speakers with my K3.

It's a nominal 1/8-in plug.  Both Switchcraft and Neutrik, two very well 
respected mfrs, make very good 1/8-in  plugs.  See my tutorial on Ham 
Interfacing, on my website, for part numbers and known good sources.

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish.htm

Nominally 1/8-in connectors attached to cables are widely available in 
the computer and consumer stereo marketplace, but this stuff is 
universally el cheapo junk -- crummy, unshielded or poorly shielded 
cables, molded connectors with flaky tolerances and dissimilar metal 
issues.

73, Jim Brown K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Are you sure it's 1/8"? that would make it 3.175mm, which would account for the 
loose connection if the socket is actually 3.5mm.
And my 3.5mm plugs in the UK fit very well.
73 de M0XDF


On 2 Jan 2012, at 21:52, Jim Brown wrote:

> On 1/2/2012 11:45 AM, Roy Morris wrote:
>> I am using two speakers with my K3.
> 
> It's a nominal 1/8-in plug.  Both Switchcraft and Neutrik, two very well 
> respected mfrs, make very good 1/8-in  plugs.  See my tutorial on Ham 
> Interfacing, on my website, for part numbers and known good sources.
> 
> http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish.htm
> 
> Nominally 1/8-in connectors attached to cables are widely available in 
> the computer and consumer stereo marketplace, but this stuff is 
> universally el cheapo junk -- crummy, unshielded or poorly shielded 
> cables, molded connectors with flaky tolerances and dissimilar metal 
> issues.
> 
> 73, Jim Brown K9YC
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[Elecraft] [P3] P3_SVGA Keyboard function keys

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I don't suppose there is any chance of the function keys on a keyboard plugged 
into the P3_SVGA being able to activate K3 macros or being programmed as 
additional function keys for the K3?
73 de M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
-- 
A good cook is like a sorceress who dispenses happiness.
-Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion designer (1890-1973)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/P3 DOA

[Bill Conkling]

Hello, friends

First I'd like to thank all that responded with possible solutions to my
friends dilemma.

We did verify the orientation of the RF board in the P3.

We did verify the resistor change was good.

We weren't too successful in listing to the IF OUT on the sub-rec.

Mark came by my shack this afternoon, and brought his radio/P3.   First we
hooked his P3 to my radio and it showed signals like it should.  I was
dismayed as I had hoped it would be a simple P3 problem, easily swapped out.

Then we began opening up the K3 hoping to find something amiss that we could
fix easily.  When we got down to the KX3Va board, and compared it's
installation to what the book called for, there it was.  It appears that the
original builder had inserted the TMP plug into the "OUT" socket, not the
"IN" socket.  We plugged the TMP cable into the correct socket, and
re-assembled the K3.  It worked as it was supposed to.  Hooray!  It was
fixed, Mark is a happy Elecraft owner.

Again, thanks to all who tried to help.

...bill  nr4c

-Original Message-
From: Bill Conkling [mailto:n...@widomaker.com] 
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 1:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: n...@hotmail.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/P3 DOA

Friends, 

 

My good friend and elmer Mark (n1lo) recently purchased a pre-loved K3 and
treated himself to a P3-K for Christmas.  I visited him yesterday, and
watched as he assembled his new 'toy'.  All went pretty well, until we
hooked it up.  It all seems to work, except, there is no signal showing on
the P3 screen.  All the markings are there, display seems to be working, but
no signal.  Adjusting the "REF LVL" brings up 'noise' but removing the BNC
cable does not change the display.  

 

Tried connecting to the IF OUT connector and turning the switch 'ON' made no
difference.  

 

Tried another BNC cable, same result.  

 

Opened the P3 and checked the TMP cable but it was firmly connected at both
ends.  No change.

 

He has emailed support for assistance but it is New Years and may not hear
anything immediately as expected with the holiday and all.

 

So, it the mean time, anyone here have an idea that we haven't thought of?

 

He did the mod to the radio to increase the output, but that looks good.

 

...bill  nr4c(for Mark n1lo)

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft [OT] Visalia Hamfest

[Jim Brown]

On 1/2/2012 1:51 PM, Doug Turnbull wrote:
> Dear OMs and Yls,
>   I am considering along with K1VGF skipping Dayton this year and
> visiting the Visalia Hamfest but I am looking for some information.I
> understand that Elecraft is sponsoring the Contest University which is an
> event I would want to attend but I know little else about this event.   So
> perhaps some of the W6 land crew might fill me in:
>
> 1)The Contest University is on the Friday.   Is it April 20?

in the past, this event has been produced by our club, NCCC. See 
www.nccc.cc  I've not seen plans for this year, but would expect the 
same. I think we call it Contest Academy, and there are usually two 
tracks, one for beginners and one more advanced. Some pretty good guys 
do the teaching in both tracks.

> 2)Does the Hamfest run on both Saturday and Sunday

Usually starts Friday afternoon, goes through Sunday noon.  Search on 
Visalia DX Convention.

>   Crudely what is the size of this event in comparison to Dayton in
> percent terms?

Much smaller in attendance, programs, and exhibits. I'd guess 20% of Dayton.

>I doubt there are any dinners but perhaps this is not the
> case and if there are I would like to know about them.

There are dinners for DX, Contesting, 160M, and IOTA, in addition to the 
Saturday night banquet.. And some of us go elsewhere for dinner in town 
and return in time for the banquet program -- it's a Holiday Inn in a 
not very big town, and the food is forgettable.

> 3) Is Fresno the best airport to fly into?   Are there any other nearby
> airports to consider?   We would be flying from Connecticut and I understand
> that AA has flights from Hartford via Dallas.

Visalia is roughly equidistant to San Francisco and Los Angeles, and 
most folks who fly in go through one of the airports around those 
cities. Oakland San Jose, and Sacramento are served by Southwest. Many 
who fly in also take time to see the sights in one of those cities, or 
along the way. There's a VOA antenna farm a few miles off the highway 
about 70 miles S of Visalia (no possibility of a tour, but it's easy to 
drive around it and look at it), and Visalia is pretty close to Yosemite 
and the Sierra. Although high elevation roads will still be closed by 
snow that time of year, there's still some pretty country to look at. 
And after a few meals in the hotel, you'll appreciate having the car to 
run into town for some very nice local restaurants. Some guys also get 
together around SF on Thursday to take in a ball game, then drive down 
to Visalia.  I've driven some east coast visitors on tours to Alacatraz, 
and to a couple of vintage ship to shore transmitting sites along the 
coast.  LAX has a bit of a jazz scene, though not nearly as much as in 
years past. Ditto for SF.

You should also be able to hitch a ride from SF or LAX with one of the 
locals if you put out a timely request.  From SF, the easy way to do 
this is to have an NCCC member post to our email reflector, and that's 
also a good way to find a room. You could also get some shack tours just 
by asking.
.
> 4) Does the Hamfest take place in the Holiday Inn as I believe the Contest
> University does?

Yes to both.

>Does anyone have contact details for this Hotel and yes I
> can search on line.

It's fully booked the day after reservations are opened, and that was 
several months ago. There are more than enough good hotels nearby to 
hold attendees, including one just across the parking lot. The others 
you need to drive to. Rooms (or a bed in a 2-bed room) become available 
periodically as plans are changed by health, personal circumstance, and 
the XYL.  I suggest that you contact DX or contesting friends if you 
want to stay in that hotel.

Visalia is fun event, a lot smaller than Dayton. While it's officially a 
DX event (and sponsored by major clubs in SF and LAX), there are getting 
to be as many contesters involved in organizing it and attending it.  
And because it's a lot smaller than Dayton, it's easy to meet and hang 
out with those who do attend.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Steve KC8QVO]

Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
> 
> Steve,
> 
> This Elecraft email reflector stopped being the K2 reflector as soon as 
> the K1 was available, and now there are questions about the K3, K2, K1, 
> KX1, now the KX3, KPA500, KRC2, mini-modules, and any other product that 
> Elecraft has produced or has announced for the future.
> 
> Clifton Labs Z1-K2 buffer can be installed in the K2 to provide 
> IFoutput for your spectrum analyzer.  Look at 
> http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 

In regards to the reflector/forum - I posted on the website under the K2
forum. There are also categories for the K1, KX1, K3, etc. I am not using
the e-mail system to get the post in to the reflector. I forgot that the
e-mail list does not "categorize" posts in the same regard that the website
does for the reflector. 

Just playing around here - I dug out my manual and found the RX Mixer. I
tapped the Post-Mixer Amp side of C159 and the ground side of R80 with a
length of RG-174. Then I ran that back to the receive antenna connector on
the 160 module (desoldered the wires to the 160 module). I figured this
would give me a 4.915mHz reference from which to tap but it doesn't work too
well. There's more to learn here for sure. 

I figured there would be a place in the circuit I could tap to bring out the
IF to the analyzer. Would I not be correct in assuming that the spectrum
analyzer can read the same signal(s) fed to the rest of the K2's receiver?


--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/IF-tap-tp7144523p7145046.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] IF tap?

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

One cannot usually use a spectrum analyzer "in situ" like you would an 
oscilloscope - the spectrum analyzer has a 50 ohm input and will load 
the "circuit under test" significantly.  That is why you need the buffer 
amplifier.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 5:35 PM, Steve KC8QVO wrote:
> Just playing around here - I dug out my manual and found the RX Mixer. 
> I tapped the Post-Mixer Amp side of C159 and the ground side of R80 
> with a length of RG-174. Then I ran that back to the receive antenna 
> connector on the 160 module (desoldered the wires to the 160 module). 
> I figured this would give me a 4.915mHz reference from which to tap 
> but it doesn't work too well. There's more to learn here for sure. I 
> figured there would be a place in the circuit I could tap to bring out 
> the IF to the analyzer. Would I not be correct in assuming that the 
> spectrum analyzer can read the same signal(s) fed to the rest of the 
> K2's receiver? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

There is nothing band dependent about the tuner - especially in CAL mode 
where all the L and C is bypassed.
Try the test on 20 meters again.
There are times when the KX1 "glitches" on an SWR reading, so if you see 
9.9 SWR try it again.
Also check your coax connections - make certain your cables are OK, 
especially if you are using adapters - make certain both male and female 
UHF connectors are tight (they depend on being tight for the shield 
path, BNC and N connectors do not have that dependency).

Another thing to consider - is the KX1 BNC connector well soldered on 
the ground side - it takes a LOT of heat (and time) to make a good 
solder connection between that connector and the board ground.  Make 
certain you apply heat (use a large iron tip if possible) and be sure 
the solder actually flows instead of just being "pasted on".  If there 
is a bad connection at that BNC jack, it could explain an occasional SWR 
= 9.9 indication.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 3:22 PM, james1...@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Don,
> I followed your instructions and did the following:
> I removed my ATU from the KX1 and put the jumper in place.
> With my shack tuner, using my Icom I tuned it for a perfectly flat SWR 
> on 20 meters.
> I moved the coax from my Icom to my KX1.
> I peaked the 20a and 20b trimmers
> I moved the coax back to my icom and tuned the shack tuner for 40 meters
> I moved the coax back to my KX1 and peaked the 40 trimmer
> I removed the jumper in the KX1 and re-installed the ATU and set it to 
> CAL.
> I connected the KX1 to my dummy load (Bird ERI-003F 150 watt 50 ohm 
> dummy load)
> I changed bands on the KX1 to 20m
> I proceeded to adjust trimmer capacitor C9.
> I was able to get the voltage to .000 (it had a range from about 2.9 
> volts and bottomed out at .000).
> The power meter was only showing about 2.8 watts and the SWR showed 1.0
> I connected my icom back up and re-tuned the antenna for 20m
> I moved the coax from my icom back to my kx1.
> With the KX1 still in cal, I pressed tune. Now the power was showing 
> about 1.9 watts and 9.9 (infinite) SWR.
> I moved the from the KX1 to my icom and tuned the antenna for 40m.
> I changed bands on the KX1 to 40m
> I moved the antenna from my icom back to the kx1 and made sure it was 
> stil on CAL. I pressed tune and it was showing 2.9 watts out and 1.0 swr.
> These are the results. I'm not sure if I was supposed to see it dip to 
> .000 volts or not.
> It definitely appears the issue is something with 20m. I wish I had a 
> wattmeter for QRP to see what the power/swr was doing without the ATU 
> on 20m.
> Also, I have a 13.8 volt supply connected, 3 watts sounds a bit low?
> 73,
> James KB2FCV
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com>>
> To: james1787 mailto:james1...@aol.com>>
> Cc: elecraft mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
> Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 1:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly
>
>
>
>
> James,
>
>
>
>   I am not sure from your prblem description whether you have a KX1
>
>   receiver problem or a KXAT1 problem or some sort of setup problem with
>
>   your shack tuner.
>
>
>
>   First thing to do is to peak the KX1 receiver front end, and you remove
>
>   the tuner (put the jumper in) and connect it to a signal generator or to
>
>   an antenna that presents close to a 50 ohm load.
>
>
>
>   Do the following things in order:
>
>   You have a shack tuner, so I suggest you set it for a 1:1 SWR - you can
>
>   do that with another transmitter or with an antenna analyzer - set it up
>
>   first for 20 meters.
>
>
>
>   Once you have a 50 ohm signal source connected to the KX1 input, peak
>
>   the 20A and 20B trimmers for the maximum output from the KX1.   Re-tune
>
>   your shack tuner to 40 meters, then connect the KX1 and peak the 40
>
>   meter trimmer - it must be done in that band order, reversing it will
>
>   only lead to frustration.
>
>
>
>   After having done that, you can remove the jumper and install the KXAT1
>
>   and set ATU to CAL
>
>   First connect a good 50 ohm dummy load and balance (null) the wattmeter
>
>   with the trimmer capacitor.  If you can obtain a good low millivolts
>
>   reading, that is good - above .010 volts is bad, below .003 volts may be
>
>   the best you can do.
>
>
>
>   With the KXAT1 still in CAL, again tune your shack tuner to 50 ohms on
>
>   20 - now you can compare the KX1 receive with you other receiver.  Then
>
>   set the ATU menu to "tun" and it should tune to less than 1.2 and you
>
>   should still be able to hear signals at the same level as before
>
>
>
>   Switch your shack tuner to 40 meters and do the same as you did on 20.
>
>
>
>   After doing that, if you still have a problem, ask again.
>
>
>
>   On 1/2/2012 12:34 PM,james1...@aol.com  wrote:
>
>   >  Hi Folks,
>
>   >  I just finished putting together my KX1 with the ATU. I am having a 
> problem
>
>   with it on 20m when using it through my shack tuner (

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft [OT] Visalia Hamfest

[Jim McDonald]

I've been to Visalia many times because I used to live in Phoenix, and many
members of the Central Arizona DX Association went, making it more
enjoyable.  I've been twice, I think, since I moved to IL in 2006.

The attendance is usually between 550 and 625. What's nice is that it all
takes place at the convention hotel, the Holiday Inn.  The Comfort Inn is
just across the parking lot, as the Holiday Inn fills up quickly, so you
could still try them for rooms, and they're probably cheaper.  Both are much
cheaper than the contest/DX hotel in Dayton, the Crowne Plaza.

The website is http://dxconvention.org/ .

You can also fly into Fresno, which is 45 minutes north of Visalia.  I
believe that there's a flight into Visalia (the airport is walking distance
to the convention) from Ontario, but that what I remember from last year.
I've flown into Fresno and Burbank, which is on the north side of Los
Angeles.

Several of us toured the VOA station west of Hwy. 99 in Delano many years
ago, but I doubt that you can today.  A few years ago I wanted to see the
VOA station at Greenville, NC, but the best I could get, which I
appreciated, was having a ham/engineer come outside the gate and describe
the facility.  He said the VOA closed the stations after 9/11/01.

It's very different than Dayton.  There's no swap meet, and the vendors'
area is in one small room.  The convention is focused on DXing and
contesting.  The Friday night dinners are nice; twice I've been to the
Topband dinner that WB6RSE organizes, and I really enjoyed it.

I've always attended the Saturday banquet and have enjoyed it.  I think the
food is OK, but the food isn't why I attend.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-


On 1/2/2012 1:51 PM, Doug Turnbull wrote:
> Dear OMs and Yls,
>   I am considering along with K1VGF skipping Dayton this year and
> visiting the Visalia Hamfest but I am looking for some information.I
> understand that Elecraft is sponsoring the Contest University which is an
> event I would want to attend but I know little else about this event.   So
> perhaps some of the W6 land crew might fill me in:
>
> 1)The Contest University is on the Friday.   Is it April 20?

in the past, this event has been produced by our club, NCCC. See www.nccc.cc
I've not seen plans for this year, but would expect the same. I think we
call it Contest Academy, and there are usually two tracks, one for beginners
and one more advanced. Some pretty good guys do the teaching in both tracks.

> 2)Does the Hamfest run on both Saturday and Sunday

Usually starts Friday afternoon, goes through Sunday noon.  Search on
Visalia DX Convention.

>   Crudely what is the size of this event in comparison to Dayton in 
> percent terms?

Much smaller in attendance, programs, and exhibits. I'd guess 20% of Dayton.

>I doubt there are any dinners but perhaps this is not the case and 
> if there are I would like to know about them.

There are dinners for DX, Contesting, 160M, and IOTA, in addition to the
Saturday night banquet.. And some of us go elsewhere for dinner in town and
return in time for the banquet program -- it's a Holiday Inn in a not very
big town, and the food is forgettable.

> 3) Is Fresno the best airport to fly into?   Are there any other nearby
> airports to consider?   We would be flying from Connecticut and I
understand
> that AA has flights from Hartford via Dallas.

Visalia is roughly equidistant to San Francisco and Los Angeles, and most
folks who fly in go through one of the airports around those cities. Oakland
San Jose, and Sacramento are served by Southwest. Many who fly in also take
time to see the sights in one of those cities, or along the way. There's a
VOA antenna farm a few miles off the highway about 70 miles S of Visalia (no
possibility of a tour, but it's easy to drive around it and look at it), and
Visalia is pretty close to Yosemite and the Sierra. Although high elevation
roads will still be closed by snow that time of year, there's still some
pretty country to look at. 
And after a few meals in the hotel, you'll appreciate having the car to run
into town for some very nice local restaurants. Some guys also get together
around SF on Thursday to take in a ball game, then drive down to Visalia.
I've driven some east coast visitors on tours to Alacatraz, and to a couple
of vintage ship to shore transmitting sites along the coast.  LAX has a bit
of a jazz scene, though not nearly as much as in years past. Ditto for SF.

You should also be able to hitch a ride from SF or LAX with one of the
locals if you put out a timely request.  From SF, the easy way to do this is
to have an NCCC member post to our email reflector, and that's also a good
way to find a room. You could also get some shack tours just by asking.
.
> 4) Does the Hamfest take place in the Holiday Inn as I believe the 
> Contest University does?

Yes to both.

>Does anyone have contact details for this Hotel and yes I can 
> search on line.

It's fully boo

Re: [Elecraft] Noise sources

[Bob K6UJ]

Thanks Kevin
I checked my families cell phone chargers and I'm OK (for now.)
It never ends.  I periodically shut off the main breaker to our house and 
listen on HF with battery power to see if there are any new RFI culprits.  My 
kids are 
always using some new electronic gadget.  I just discovered 
that my Seagate Free Agent Pro external hard drive is radiating RFI  like crazy.
I can pick up its radiation from my HF rig in the car parked in front of the 
house !   I should call Seagate 
and inform them that they need to apply for an FCC license and get a call sign 
for my hard drive.  hihi.

73,
Bob
K6UJ





On Jan 2, 2012, at 1:08 PM, kevinr wrote:

> For those of you interested in tracking down sources of household RF 
> noise here is an article describing one source you may not have 
> considered: cellular telephone chargers.  Modern cell phones have become 
> thinner and thinner and are commonly recharged via a USB connection.  A 
> comprehensive article in EE Times is available here:
> 
> www.eetimes.com/4230239
> 
> 73,
>  Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

[james1787]

Hi Don,
Good suggestion on the cables.. I swapped them out and whatever I did, it now 
shows a nice flat SWR on 20m. Perhaps something was loose or maybe the patch 
cable I was using as seen better days. 
?
Any idea why it might be showing 3 watts out as opposed to 4? Not that it makes 
much difference, just worked Serbia, Sardinia and Croatia with 3 watts :)
?
73 & thanks,
?
James KB2FCV




-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: james1787 
Cc: elecraft 
Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 6:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

James,

There is nothing band dependent about the tuner - especially in CAL mode where 
all the L and C is bypassed.
Try the test on 20 meters again.
There are times when the KX1 "glitches" on an SWR reading, so if you see 9.9 
SWR try it again.
Also check your coax connections - make certain your cables are OK, especially 
if you are using adapters - make certain both male and female UHF connectors 
are tight (they depend on being tight for the shield path, BNC and N connectors 
do not have that dependency).

Another thing to consider - is the KX1 BNC connector well soldered on the 
ground side - it takes a LOT of heat (and time) to make a good solder 
connection between that connector and the board ground.? Make certain you apply 
heat (use a large iron tip if possible) and be sure the solder actually flows 
instead of just being "pasted on".? If there is a bad connection at that BNC 
jack, it could explain an occasional SWR = 9.9 indication.

73,
Don W3FPR 

On 1/2/2012 3:22 PM, james1...@aol.com wrote: Hi Don,
I followed your instructions and did the following:
I removed my ATU from the KX1 and put the jumper in place.
With my shack tuner, using my Icom I tuned it for a perfectly?flat SWR on 20 
meters.
I moved the coax from my Icom to my KX1.
I peaked the 20a and 20b trimmers
I moved the coax back to my icom and tuned the shack tuner for 40 meters
I moved the coax back to my KX1 and peaked the 40 trimmer
I removed the jumper in the KX1 and re-installed the ATU and set it to CAL.
I connected the KX1 to my dummy load (Bird ERI-003F 150 watt 50 ohm dummy load)
I changed bands on the KX1 to 20m
I proceeded to adjust trimmer capacitor C9. 
I was able to get the voltage to .000 (it had a range from about 2.9 volts and 
bottomed out at .000). 
The power meter was only showing about 2.8 watts and the SWR showed 1.0
I connected my icom back up and re-tuned the antenna for 20m
I moved the coax from my icom back to my kx1.
With the KX1 still in cal, I pressed tune. Now the power was showing about 1.9 
watts and 9.9 (infinite) SWR. 
I moved the from the KX1 to my icom and tuned the antenna for 40m. 
I changed bands on the KX1 to 40m
I moved the antenna from my icom back to the kx1 and made sure it was stil on 
CAL. I pressed tune and it was showing 2.9 watts out and 1.0 swr. 
?
These are the results. I'm not sure if I was supposed to see it dip to .000 
volts or not. 
It definitely appears the issue is something with 20m. I wish I had a wattmeter 
for QRP to see what the power/swr was doing without the ATU on 20m. 
Also, I have a 13.8 volt supply connected, 3 watts sounds a bit low? 
?
73,
James KB2FCV
?




-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: james1787 
Cc: elecraft 
Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 1:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly




James,I am not sure from your prblem description whether you have a KX1 
receiver problem or a KXAT1 problem or some sort of setup problem with 
your shack tuner.First thing to do is to peak the KX1 receiver front 
end, and you remove the tuner (put the jumper in) and connect it to a 
signal generator or to an antenna that presents close to a 50 ohm load. 
   Do the following things in order:You have a shack tuner, so I suggest 
you set it for a 1:1 SWR - you can do that with another transmitter or with 
an antenna analyzer - set it up first for 20 meters.Once you have a 
50 ohm signal source connected to the KX1 input, peak the 20A and 20B 
trimmers for the maximum output from the KX1.   Re-tune your shack tuner to 
40 meters, then connect the KX1 and peak the 40 meter trimmer - it must be 
done in that band order, reversing it will only lead to frustration.
After having done that, you can remove the jumper 
 and install the KXAT1 and set ATU to CALFirst connect a good 50 ohm 
dummy load and balance (null) the wattmeter with the trimmer capacitor.  If 
you can obtain a good low millivolts reading, that is good - above .010 
volts is bad, below .003 volts may be the best you can do.With the 
KXAT1 still in CAL, again tune your shack tuner to 50 ohms on 20 - now you 
can compare the KX1 receive with you other receiver.  Then set the ATU

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Rick Bates]

Let me see if I can correctly state, with clarity for all to understand so
this thread can die peacefully and we can move on (please?).

The K3 puts out power into an internal tuner (if installed) and then to an
SO-239 at the rear of the radio.  If the tuner is in bypass, the impedance
is very close to 50 ohm resistive at that connector.  In this case, any SWR
meter (bridge) downstream to the antenna will read the SWR (AT THAT POINT IN
THE FEEDLINE which may/not agree with the K3 reading).

If the tuner is NOT in bypass, the impedance at the same SO-239 will be
+-10:1 of 50 ohms.  Since any other SWR meter (bridge) between the K3 and
the antenna is probably NOT seeing the expected 50 Ohm impedance, the
reading of OTHER than the K3 meter will be called into question and more
than likely wrong.  

Repeating, when the internal tuner is used, the K3 meter is the only one
that is accurate.

Thank you and Happy New Year,
Rick wa6nhc



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

Not quite --
Both SWR meters can be quite accurate - they are just not measuring the 
same thing.

Imagine an external tuner - put an SWR meter on the input, and another 
on the output -
Now make changes to the L and C in the tuner - note that the SWR meter 
on the input is the only one that will change - the one on the output 
will stay at the same SWR indication.  The "Antenna Tuner" does not 
change anything in the antenna system beyond the tuner output - (yes, it 
is not very well named) - what an antenna tuner does is add inductance 
and capacity at one point in the feedline so that the impedance at its 
input is close to 50 ohms resistive.  It transforms the impedance -- it 
really does not "Tune" anything.

The same thing happens with the internal tuner in the K3 - the K3 
indicates the same as the meter on the *input* in my example above - the 
external meter acts as the one on the output, and it will not change no 
matter how you change the settings of the ATU.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 8:06 PM, Rick Bates wrote:
> Let me see if I can correctly state, with clarity for all to understand so
> this thread can die peacefully and we can move on (please?).
>
> The K3 puts out power into an internal tuner (if installed) and then to an
> SO-239 at the rear of the radio.  If the tuner is in bypass, the impedance
> is very close to 50 ohm resistive at that connector.  In this case, any SWR
> meter (bridge) downstream to the antenna will read the SWR (AT THAT POINT IN
> THE FEEDLINE which may/not agree with the K3 reading).
>
> If the tuner is NOT in bypass, the impedance at the same SO-239 will be
> +-10:1 of 50 ohms.  Since any other SWR meter (bridge) between the K3 and
> the antenna is probably NOT seeing the expected 50 Ohm impedance, the
> reading of OTHER than the K3 meter will be called into question and more
> than likely wrong.
>
> Repeating, when the internal tuner is used, the K3 meter is the only one
> that is accurate.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

Very glad to hear that.  3 watts as opposed to 4 is not that much 
different.  The collective gains of Q4, Q5 and Q6 may be to blame.  If 
you would like to boost it a bit, you could put in the KX1 Power Mod 
resistor changes.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 7:33 PM, james1...@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Don,
> Good suggestion on the cables.. I swapped them out and whatever I did, it now 
> shows a nice flat SWR on 20m. Perhaps something was loose or maybe the patch 
> cable I was using as seen better days.
> ?
> Any idea why it might be showing 3 watts out as opposed to 4? Not that it 
> makes much difference, just worked Serbia, Sardinia and Croatia with 3 watts 
> :)
> ?
> 73&  thanks,
> ?
> James KB2FCV
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm
> To: james1787
> Cc: elecraft
> Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 6:07 pm
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly
>
> James,
>
> There is nothing band dependent about the tuner - especially in CAL mode 
> where all the L and C is bypassed.
> Try the test on 20 meters again.
> There are times when the KX1 "glitches" on an SWR reading, so if you see 9.9 
> SWR try it again.
> Also check your coax connections - make certain your cables are OK, 
> especially if you are using adapters - make certain both male and female UHF 
> connectors are tight (they depend on being tight for the shield path, BNC and 
> N connectors do not have that dependency).
>
> Another thing to consider - is the KX1 BNC connector well soldered on the 
> ground side - it takes a LOT of heat (and time) to make a good solder 
> connection between that connector and the board ground.? Make certain you 
> apply heat (use a large iron tip if possible) and be sure the solder actually 
> flows instead of just being "pasted on".? If there is a bad connection at 
> that BNC jack, it could explain an occasional SWR = 9.9 indication.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/2/2012 3:22 PM, james1...@aol.com wrote: Hi Don,
> I followed your instructions and did the following:
> I removed my ATU from the KX1 and put the jumper in place.
> With my shack tuner, using my Icom I tuned it for a perfectly?flat SWR on 20 
> meters.
> I moved the coax from my Icom to my KX1.
> I peaked the 20a and 20b trimmers
> I moved the coax back to my icom and tuned the shack tuner for 40 meters
> I moved the coax back to my KX1 and peaked the 40 trimmer
> I removed the jumper in the KX1 and re-installed the ATU and set it to CAL.
> I connected the KX1 to my dummy load (Bird ERI-003F 150 watt 50 ohm dummy 
> load)
> I changed bands on the KX1 to 20m
> I proceeded to adjust trimmer capacitor C9.
> I was able to get the voltage to .000 (it had a range from about 2.9 volts 
> and bottomed out at .000).
> The power meter was only showing about 2.8 watts and the SWR showed 1.0
> I connected my icom back up and re-tuned the antenna for 20m
> I moved the coax from my icom back to my kx1.
> With the KX1 still in cal, I pressed tune. Now the power was showing about 
> 1.9 watts and 9.9 (infinite) SWR.
> I moved the from the KX1 to my icom and tuned the antenna for 40m.
> I changed bands on the KX1 to 40m
> I moved the antenna from my icom back to the kx1 and made sure it was stil on 
> CAL. I pressed tune and it was showing 2.9 watts out and 1.0 swr.
> ?
> These are the results. I'm not sure if I was supposed to see it dip to .000 
> volts or not.
> It definitely appears the issue is something with 20m. I wish I had a 
> wattmeter for QRP to see what the power/swr was doing without the ATU on 20m.
> Also, I have a 13.8 volt supply connected, 3 watts sounds a bit low?
> ?
> 73,
> James KB2FCV
> ?
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm
> To: james1787
> Cc: elecraft
> Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 1:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not sure my KX1 ATU is working correctly
>
>
>
>
> James,I am not sure from your prblem description whether you have a 
> KX1 receiver problem or a KXAT1 problem or some sort of setup problem 
> with your shack tuner.First thing to do is to peak the KX1 
> receiver front end, and you remove the tuner (put the jumper in) and 
> connect it to a signal generator or to an antenna that presents close to 
> a 50 ohm load.Do the following things in order:You have a shack 
> tuner, so I suggest you set it for a 1:1 SWR - you can do that with 
> another transmitter or with an antenna analyzer - set it up first for 20 
> meters.Once you have a 50 ohm signal source connected to the KX1 
> input, peak the 20A and 20B trimmers for the maximum output from the KX1. 
>   Re-tune your shack tuner to 40 meters, then connect the KX1 and peak 
> the 40 meter trimmer - it must be done in that band order, reversing it 
> will only lead to frustration.After having done that, you can 
> remove

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Tom Azlin N4ZPT]

Not sure I understand this.

I did not think an SWR meter was supposed to work properly only when 
seeing 50 ohms restive.

If the line is not flat it is terminated in to something other than the 
feedline impedance, i.e. not 50 ohms restive in this discussion. I would 
expect the SWR meter at some point in the feedline to be accurate under 
those conditions because it is supposed to measure the standing wave 
ratio of the feedline with respect to that 50 ohm resistive.

If I then have an antenna coupler in the radio that is matching the 
transmitter to that non-50 ohm impedance why would the SWR meter change 
to inaccurately measuring the SWR?   Putting the K3 into bypass or 
letting it "tune" should not change the SWR measures at some point in 
the feedline. The K3 may show 1:1 simply because it properly transformed 
the line impedance to 50 ohms restive.

Perhaps I am missing something here. Sorry for continuing the discussion.

73, tom n4zpt

On 1/2/2012 8:06 PM, Rick Bates wrote:
> Let me see if I can correctly state, with clarity for all to understand so
> this thread can die peacefully and we can move on (please?).
>
> The K3 puts out power into an internal tuner (if installed) and then to an
> SO-239 at the rear of the radio.  If the tuner is in bypass, the impedance
> is very close to 50 ohm resistive at that connector.  In this case, any SWR
> meter (bridge) downstream to the antenna will read the SWR (AT THAT POINT IN
> THE FEEDLINE which may/not agree with the K3 reading).
>
> If the tuner is NOT in bypass, the impedance at the same SO-239 will be
> +-10:1 of 50 ohms.  Since any other SWR meter (bridge) between the K3 and
> the antenna is probably NOT seeing the expected 50 Ohm impedance, the
> reading of OTHER than the K3 meter will be called into question and more
> than likely wrong.
>
> Repeating, when the internal tuner is used, the K3 meter is the only one
> that is accurate.
>
> Thank you and Happy New Year,
> Rick wa6nhc

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Matthew Pitts]

Tom,

All an antenna tuner does is show the radio the load it expects; the SWR will 
still be high at the output of the tuner, and an SWR meter in the coax at that 
output will show it as it actually is at that point, not as it is on the input 
of the tuner/output of the radio.

Matthew Pitts
N8OHU

Sent from my Wireless Device

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Tom Azlin N4ZPT]

Thanks Matthew. I should not have spoken like that. Should just
have said the meter in the line would not change just because a radio
tuner transformed impedance to make the radio happy. 73, tom n4zpt

On 1/2/2012 9:11 PM, Matthew Pitts wrote:
> Tom,
>
> All an antenna tuner does is show the radio the load it expects; the
> SWR will still be high at the output of the tuner, and an SWR meter
> in the coax at that output will show it as it actually is at that
> point, not as it is on the input of the tuner/output of the radio.
>
> Matthew Pitts N8OHU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Quite right. 

There a couple of impedance transformations that occur between the
collectors (or plates) of the power amplifiers and the antenna. The first is
done by the output filters. In modern rigs, they are fixed tuned and
designed in common Ham rigs to convert the impedance at the collectors to 50
ohms, resistive. 

If your antenna presents that impedance, no further conversion is necessary.
But many antennas don't.

In the "old" days the output network was adjustable and we simply did the
necessary adjustments and all was good. 

Nowadays, with fixed tuned amplifier output networks, we need another
matching network to handle the conversion when the antenna doesn't present a
50 ohms resistive load. 

Enter the "antenna tuner" that converts what the antenna shows to the 50
ohms needed by the output filter. The built in SWR meter displays the SWR on
the link between the tuner and the output filter. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Azlin N4ZPT
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 6:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

Thanks Matthew. I should not have spoken like that. Should just
have said the meter in the line would not change just because a radio
tuner transformed impedance to make the radio happy. 73, tom n4zpt

On 1/2/2012 9:11 PM, Matthew Pitts wrote:
> Tom,
>
> All an antenna tuner does is show the radio the load it expects; the
> SWR will still be high at the output of the tuner, and an SWR meter
> in the coax at that output will show it as it actually is at that
> point, not as it is on the input of the tuner/output of the radio.
>
> Matthew Pitts N8OHU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

[Rick Bates]

Hi Tom,

Ok, one more swing at it.

The "tuner" as Don states (and we agree), is transforming the 50 Ohm
impedance of the transmitter, into something that mates better with the
impedance of the antenna for (hopefully*) better transfer of energy to/from
the antenna.  There are similar circuits inside every radio to transfer the
energy between sections.  The proper term would be "impedance matching
circuit or device" but we're taught (and stuck with) 'tuner'.

Now, using our beloved K3 in this example:
Tuner in bypass produces ~50 Ohm impedance at the back of the K3.
Tuner in use produces an impedance of somewhere between 5-500 Ohms at the
back of the same K3.  You don't know what that impedance is.

The SWR meter is expecting (because transmitters are usually set to) 50 Ohm
impedance.  If that impedance is off, the meter reading is probably wrong.
Sure, it will read something, but the reading is worthless (even as a power
meter) because of the mismatch.  The amount of error is dependent on the
amount of mismatch (which we don't know).  So you're correct, that they are
only accurate at 50 Ohm impedance (give or take a small percentage).

This is why you put the SWR meter between the output of a known impedance
(50 Ohm coming out of the transmitter) and the matching device (50 Ohm
input).  As the device changes LC values to compensate for (match) the
reactance(s) of the antenna, the standing wave at the meter is reduced.
This is how you can tell that the matching device is transferring more
energy to the antenna (the reactance is 'tuned' out).

As Don also accurately stated, it doesn't make the antenna work ANY better,
but it does transfer more energy TO the antenna (disregarding tuner and line
losses) because of better matching.

And note that I most carefully said that the meter makes a reading AT THAT
POINT IN THE FEEDLINE.  If you add/subtract patch cables to an external
meter (or alter feedline length), your reading may very well be different.
The 'trap' that many hams fall into is that the feedline is treated as a
'hose' between transmitter and antenna.  It isn't; but is PART of the entire
circuit (it is not passive).  Which leads to your next comment.

What you were referring to was that the impedance of the antenna is best
read (is duplicated) at half wave intervals on the feedline (ignoring the
added feedline reactance).  Most hams simply cut to convenient lengths (me
too) because we're using multiple band antennas (or at least feeding them
that way) and we tend to let the 'tuner' take up any slack (or ignore the
losses).  This is why the K3 meter, sensing at the transmitter output and
before the internal tuner, is the best place to measure SWR.  The tuner
matches THAT point in the feedline system for best transfer of energy.

The bottom line is simple.  If you are using a matching device (a tuner) the
ONLY place that a SWR meter will accurately read what you expect, is after
the amplifier and before the matching device.   This should also show you
why short patch cables should be used to attach the SWR meter to the
transmitter, to minimize error from reading at a random point in the feed
(it's more accurate AT the transmitter).

Does that help?

Rick WA6NHC

* I threw in this caveat because I once had a very nice, high power,
homebrew 'tuner' that I could feed with the 200 watt transmitter and get a
'perfect match' with *nothing* delivered to the attached end fed random
wire.  The 'tuner' simply converted it into heat.  If I retuned using a
different LC combination, I was heard.  Don't ask what type etc., because I
don't remember and stupidly sold it over 30 years ago.  :o(

 
-Original Message-
From: Tom Azlin N4ZPT

Not sure I understand this.

I did not think an SWR meter was supposed to work properly only when 
seeing 50 ohms restive.

If the line is not flat it is terminated in to something other than the 
feedline impedance, i.e. not 50 ohms restive in this discussion. I would 
expect the SWR meter at some point in the feedline to be accurate under 
those conditions because it is supposed to measure the standing wave 
ratio of the feedline with respect to that 50 ohm resistive.

If I then have an antenna coupler in the radio that is matching the 
transmitter to that non-50 ohm impedance why would the SWR meter change 
to inaccurately measuring the SWR?   Putting the K3 into bypass or 
letting it "tune" should not change the SWR measures at some point in 
the feedline. The K3 may show 1:1 simply because it properly transformed 
the line impedance to 50 ohms restive.

Perhaps I am missing something here. Sorry for continuing the discussion.

73, tom n4zpt

On 1/2/2012 8:06 PM, Rick Bates wrote:
> Let me see if I can correctly state, with clarity for all to understand so
> this thread can die peacefully and we can move on (please?).
>
> The K3 puts out power into an internal tuner (if installed) and then to an
> SO-239 at the rear of the radio.  If the tuner is in bypass, the impedance
> 

Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[n5ge]

Page 8 in the D9 version of the K3 Owners's Manual say's 1/8 inch stereo HP and
SP jacks both.

But... That doesn't mean they are ;o)

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

"Only a white man would believe he could cut the top
off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
blanket."

-- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time

On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 21:59:07 +, "David Ferrington, M0XDF"
 wrote:

>Are you sure it's 1/8"? that would make it 3.175mm, which would account for 
>the loose connection if the socket is actually 3.5mm.
>And my 3.5mm plugs in the UK fit very well.
>73 de M0XDF
>
>
[snip]

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom and all,

You are ignoring one important word - "Nominal"
A nominal 1/8 inch is equal to a nominal 3.5mm.
As far as I know, they are both the same size.
But as Jim Brown points out, there are good and bad connectors.  Buy the 
good ones and stop suffering -- yes, that may mean that you have to 
build your own cables if you want good performance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 10:48 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:
> Page 8 in the D9 version of the K3 Owners's Manual say's 1/8 inch stereo HP 
> and
> SP jacks both.
>
> But... That doesn't mean they are ;o)
>
> 73,
> Tom
> Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
> ARRL Lifetime Member
> QCWA Lifetime Member
>
> "Only a white man would believe he could cut the top
> off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
> blanket."
>
> -- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time
>
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 21:59:07 +, "David Ferrington, M0XDF"
>   wrote:
>
>> Are you sure it's 1/8"? that would make it 3.175mm, which would account for 
>> the loose connection if the socket is actually 3.5mm.
>> And my 3.5mm plugs in the UK fit very well.
>> 73 de M0XDF
>>
>>
> [snip]
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Part of the problem is that in the USA many suppliers consider 3.5 mm and
1/8" the same. For example I have a packet of Radio Shack plugs that is
marked 1/8" (3.5 mm).

I grabbed one and checked it, and it's 0.135" in diameter - 3.5 mm. No
wonder it works FB in my K3. 

I'm inclined to go on another rant about how Americans refuse to accept
metric measurements even though metric has been the "standard" system of
weights and measurements in the USA since the 1960's, but I won't.

Oh... I just did.

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of n...@n5ge.com
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 7:49 PM
To: David Ferrington, M0XDF
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug


Page 8 in the D9 version of the K3 Owners's Manual say's 1/8 inch stereo HP
and
SP jacks both.

But... That doesn't mean they are ;o)

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

"Only a white man would believe he could cut the top
off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
blanket."

-- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time

On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 21:59:07 +, "David Ferrington, M0XDF"
 wrote:

>Are you sure it's 1/8"? that would make it 3.175mm, which would account for
the loose connection if the socket is actually 3.5mm.
>And my 3.5mm plugs in the UK fit very well.
>73 de M0XDF
>
>
[snip]

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[Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Phillip Nichols]

Are the LEDs on the face of the KX3 really going to stand out as high as 
they appear on the Elecraft site? I could see one getting broke quite  
easy being that exposed. I would hope for a lower profile on them for 
safety sake.

73/Phillip/N8AYE
-.  ---..  .-  -.--  .


 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Wayne Burdick]

No. About 50 mils.

Wayne

On Jan 2, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Phillip Nichols wrote:

> Are the LEDs on the face of the KX3 really going to stand out as  
> high as
> they appear on the Elecraft site? I could see one getting broke quite
> easy being that exposed. I would hope for a lower profile on them for
> safety sake.
>
> 73/Phillip/N8AYE
> -.  ---..  .-  -.--  .
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] [K3] jack size

[Ken G Kopp]

I have a large number of "1/8"- plugged patch cords.
None seem to fit the K3's jacks correctly.  I've always
attributed this to the quality of the jacks, not a possible
size mismatch.

The plugs on my several Heil headsets fit so sloppy
that I've sometimes used tape to hold them askew
to maintain contact.

Are there plugs commonly available in the US that -do-
fit properly?

73!
Ken - K0PP
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[Elecraft] Noise sources

[Richard Fjeld]

I saw a post about finding sources of noise, and I would like to share one that 
surprised me.  The other night, I had 20/s9 noise on 75 meters all across the 
band.  I got out my portable AM radio and was trying to find the cause when I 
heard a click and the noise was gone.  I knew something had been turned off, so 
I went upstairs and asked my wife.  She had just turned off the 'puck' light 
that is under the kitchen cabinet. When I turned it back on, there was no doubt!

It is simply a 12V incandescent bulb.  Apparently the small metal box in-line 
on the power cord is a switching PS instead of a step-down transformer. 

Richard Fjeld, n0ce
rpfj...@embarqmail.com
E=IR, it's the law.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[Jim Wiley]

Hmmm -

3.5 mm = 0.1378 inches

1/8 inch = 0.125 inch

Or am I missing something?


- Jim, KL7CC



Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Tom and all,
>
> You are ignoring one important word - "Nominal"
> A nominal 1/8 inch is equal to a nominal 3.5mm.
> As far as I know, they are both the same size.
> But as Jim Brown points out, there are good and bad connectors.  Buy the 
> good ones and stop suffering -- yes, that may mean that you have to 
> build your own cables if you want good performance.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/2/2012 10:48 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:
>   
>> Page 8 in the D9 version of the K3 Owners's Manual say's 1/8 inch stereo HP 
>> and
>> SP jacks both.
>>
>> But... That doesn't mean they are ;o)
>>
>> 73,
>> Tom
>> Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
>> ARRL Lifetime Member
>> QCWA Lifetime Member
>>
>> "Only a white man would believe he could cut the top
>> off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
>> blanket."
>>
>> -- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time
>>
>> On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 21:59:07 +, "David Ferrington, M0XDF"
>>   wrote:
>>
>> 
>>> Are you sure it's 1/8"? that would make it 3.175mm, which would account for 
>>> the loose connection if the socket is actually 3.5mm.
>>> And my 3.5mm plugs in the UK fit very well.
>>> 73 de M0XDF
>>>
>>>
>>>   
>> [snip]
>>
>> __
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>> 
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>   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] jack size

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The Radio Shack plugs, P/N 274-284, marked "1/8", (0.125"), are actually 3.5
mm, (0.135 mm), and fit the K3 very well.

And they take solder just fine, unlike some RS connectors. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

I have a large number of "1/8"- plugged patch cords.
None seem to fit the K3's jacks correctly.  I've always
attributed this to the quality of the jacks, not a possible
size mismatch.

The plugs on my several Heil headsets fit so sloppy
that I've sometimes used tape to hold them askew
to maintain contact.

Are there plugs commonly available in the US that -do-
fit properly?

73!
Ken - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, I think you have missed the meaning of "nominal"
Let me put it this way - the "nominal 40 meter band" can refer to any 
frequency between 7.000 and 7.200 MHz (we in the US will extend that to 
7.300 MHz).

Likewise, nominal 3.5mm can range from 0.125 to 0.140 inches, and a 
"nominal 1/8 inch" can refer to the same range.
We do not live in an "exact" world, every physical thing has tolerances.
Ask a machinist to build you something without tolerance specifications, 
and he will tell you that it cannot be done.  How tight the tolerances 
can be held to is a sign of the quality of the product.  Those parts 
with tighter tolerances cost more.  That is why 1% resistors cost more 
than 5% resistors.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2012 11:36 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:
> Hmmm -
>
> 3.5 mm = 0.1378 inches
>
> 1/8 inch = 0.125 inch
>
> Or am I missing something?
>
>
> - Jim, KL7CC
>
>
>
> Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> Tom and all,
>>
>> You are ignoring one important word - "Nominal"
>> A nominal 1/8 inch is equal to a nominal 3.5mm.
>> As far as I know, they are both the same size.
>> But as Jim Brown points out, there are good and bad connectors.  Buy the
>> good ones and stop suffering -- yes, that may mean that you have to
>> build your own cables if you want good performance.
>>
>>
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[Elecraft] K3, I broke it. Headed for the schematics

[Jim Miller KG0KP]

OK, Magic people, I broke it.  First responses are the right ones.  I 
installed the 2m internal module (physically) and the FM Filter.  Audio gone 
even before utility ran to configure filters ("all bands").

No audio through speaker or headset (front connections) except white noise, 
no signals.  I see the signals on my P3 just as they should be.  Normal 
amplitude, etc.  The only connections to the 2 meter module is power, other 
cables not connected.

Any ideas where the connector is that I somehow disconnected?

Headed for the schematics.

Filters were #1 was 2.7, #2 was 1.8, #3 was blank, #4 was 500, #5 was 250
Filters now #1 is 13.0, #2 is 2.7, #3 is 1.8, #4 is 500, #5 is 250
In config - just moved settings for #2 to #3 and #1 to #2 and added #1 as 
13.0 and set for FM but NOT installed.

Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Matt Maguire]

Here a "mil" is ovbiously not referring to a millimetre, otherwise the LEDs are 
sticking up 5cm! So, I did a google search, and discovered that in the Imperial 
measurement system, it can also refer to one thousandth of an inch (0.0254mm).

That means 50 mils = 1.27mm, which makes much more sense. You learn something 
every day :-)

73, Matt VK2ACL


Google tells me that discovered a "mil" is actually an imperial measurement


On 03/01/2012, at 3:21 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> No. About 50 mils.
> 
> Wayne
> 
> On Jan 2, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Phillip Nichols wrote:
> 
>> Are the LEDs on the face of the KX3 really going to stand out as  
>> high as
>> they appear on the Elecraft site? I could see one getting broke quite
>> easy being that exposed. I would hope for a lower profile on them for
>> safety sake.
>> 
>> 73/Phillip/N8AYE
>> -.  ---..  .-  -.--  .
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, I broke it. Headed for the schematics

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

Technically, if you hear "white noise", you have audio.  Sorry to be so 
"picky", but it is quite important in troubleshooting to use exact 
language so we all understand each other.  From your statements I would 
rather have seen you say that you have audio, but do not hear any 
signals AND that you see signals on the P3.
That places the problem between the IF output and the input to the DSP - 
in other words the filter section of the receiver.
Check your filter configuration again, and check the physical 
installation of the filters - backwards filters do not work right.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/3/2012 8:50 PM, Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:
> OK, Magic people, I broke it.  First responses are the right ones.  I
> installed the 2m internal module (physically) and the FM Filter.  Audio gone
> even before utility ran to configure filters ("all bands").
>
> No audio through speaker or headset (front connections) except white noise,
> no signals.  I see the signals on my P3 just as they should be.  Normal
> amplitude, etc.  The only connections to the 2 meter module is power, other
> cables not connected.
>
> Any ideas where the connector is that I somehow disconnected?
>
> Headed for the schematics.
>
> Filters were #1 was 2.7, #2 was 1.8, #3 was blank, #4 was 500, #5 was 250
> Filters now #1 is 13.0, #2 is 2.7, #3 is 1.8, #4 is 500, #5 is 250
> In config - just moved settings for #2 to #3 and #1 to #2 and added #1 as
> 13.0 and set for FM but NOT installed.
>
> Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Don Wilhelm]

Unfortunately, one has to be cautious of common "technical slang" in an 
international community.  Yes, common in US machinist's talk is for a 
'mil' to equal 0.001 inch.  I am not certain of the origin and even 
though I looked it up at Wikipedia, I still don't have any answer to why 
'thou' is equal to 'mil' (even though I use and understand that unit 
myself).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2012 12:05 AM, Matt Maguire wrote:
> Here a "mil" is ovbiously not referring to a millimetre, otherwise the LEDs 
> are sticking up 5cm! So, I did a google search, and discovered that in the 
> Imperial measurement system, it can also refer to one thousandth of an inch 
> (0.0254mm).
>
> That means 50 mils = 1.27mm, which makes much more sense. You learn something 
> every day :-)
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Matt Maguire]

I think this is due to the French influence on the metric system: in French, 
the word "mille" means "1000".

73, Matt VK2ACL.

On 03/01/2012, at 4:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Unfortunately, one has to be cautious of common "technical slang" in an 
> international community.  Yes, common in US machinist's talk is for a 
> 'mil' to equal 0.001 inch.  I am not certain of the origin and even 
> though I looked it up at Wikipedia, I still don't have any answer to why 
> 'thou' is equal to 'mil' (even though I use and understand that unit 
> myself).
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 1/3/2012 12:05 AM, Matt Maguire wrote:
>> Here a "mil" is ovbiously not referring to a millimetre, otherwise the LEDs 
>> are sticking up 5cm! So, I did a google search, and discovered that in the 
>> Imperial measurement system, it can also refer to one thousandth of an inch 
>> (0.0254mm).
>> 
>> That means 50 mils = 1.27mm, which makes much more sense. You learn 
>> something every day :-)
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Rick Dettinger]

I think that mil is short for milli inch, which is really mixing  
systems.
I think that power folks do even worse.  Wires larger than 4/0 are  
given in circular mils, or cm.  When I started with a power company 42  
years ago, one thousand circular mils was MCM, where the M was from  
Roman Numerals for thousand.  That was confusing, as it could also  
refer to Mega, so the M was changed to K for Kilo, so we had Kcmils.

73,
Rick  K7MW  (not megawatts)


On Jan 2, 2012, at 9:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Unfortunately, one has to be cautious of common "technical slang" in  
> an
> international community.  Yes, common in US machinist's talk is for a
> 'mil' to equal 0.001 inch.  I am not certain of the origin and even
> though I looked it up at Wikipedia, I still don't have any answer to  
> why
> 'thou' is equal to 'mil' (even though I use and understand that unit
> myself).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft [OT] Visalia Hamfest

[Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft]

Hi Jim, 

DX University at Visalia this year is not the same as contest university. Its a 
similar program focused on DXing.  It going to be a great program. Different 
sponsoring groups too.

See http://www.dxuniversity.com/

73,
Eric

www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Jan 2, 2012, at 2:26 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 1/2/2012 1:51 PM, Doug Turnbull wrote:
>> Dear OMs and Yls,
>>  I am considering along with K1VGF skipping Dayton this year and
>> visiting the Visalia Hamfest but I am looking for some information.I
>> understand that Elecraft is sponsoring the Contest University which is an
>> event I would want to attend but I know little else about this event.   So
>> perhaps some of the W6 land crew might fill me in:
>> 
>> 1)The Contest University is on the Friday.   Is it April 20?
> 
> in the past, this event has been produced by our club, NCCC. See 
> www.nccc.cc  I've not seen plans for this year, but would expect the 
> same. I think we call it Contest Academy, and there are usually two 
> tracks, one for beginners and one more advanced. Some pretty good guys 
> do the teaching in both tracks.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug

[n5ge]

Having worked in manufacturing of the F111 FB when they did that I can imagine
that to convert over would have cost BILLIONS.

The United States manufacturers just decided not to spend the money to convert.

Yes, the Metric system makes more sense, but a wholesale conversion would have
been very expensive.

Now would be a good time to do it since we don't manufacture anything in the USA
any more, and when the Chinese collect our debt to them from us they will make
it happen anyway.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

"Only a white man would believe he could cut the top
off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
blanket."

-- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time

On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 20:17:39 -0800, "Ron D'Eau Claire"  wrote:

>Part of the problem is that in the USA many suppliers consider 3.5 mm and
>1/8" the same. For example I have a packet of Radio Shack plugs that is
>marked 1/8" (3.5 mm).
>
>I grabbed one and checked it, and it's 0.135" in diameter - 3.5 mm. No
>wonder it works FB in my K3. 
>
>I'm inclined to go on another rant about how Americans refuse to accept
>metric measurements even though metric has been the "standard" system of
>weights and measurements in the USA since the 1960's, but I won't.
>
>Oh... I just did.
>
>Ron AC7AC 
>
>-Original Message-
>From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of n...@n5ge.com
>Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 7:49 PM
>To: David Ferrington, M0XDF
>Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Speaker Plug
>
>
>Page 8 in the D9 version of the K3 Owners's Manual say's 1/8 inch stereo HP
>and
>SP jacks both.
>
>But... That doesn't mean they are ;o)
>
>73,
>Tom
>Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
>ARRL Lifetime Member
>QCWA Lifetime Member
>
>"Only a white man would believe he could cut the top
>off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
>blanket."
>
>-- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time
>
>On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 21:59:07 +, "David Ferrington, M0XDF"
> wrote:
>
>>Are you sure it's 1/8"? that would make it 3.175mm, which would account for
>the loose connection if the socket is actually 3.5mm.
>>And my 3.5mm plugs in the UK fit very well.
>>73 de M0XDF
>>
>>
>[snip]
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, I broke it. Headed for the schematics

[Jim Miller KG0KP]

Fixed it.  reinstalling the second receiver pulled out a cable to a front 
panel board and the end was under the receiver so I couldn't see it.  Once 
it was removed, it was obvious.  Thanks guys.

73, de Jim KG0KP

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Miller KG0KP" 
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 7:50 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3, I broke it. Headed for the schematics


> OK, Magic people, I broke it.  First responses are the right ones.  I
> installed the 2m internal module (physically) and the FM Filter.  Audio 
> gone
> even before utility ran to configure filters ("all bands").
>
> No audio through speaker or headset (front connections) except white 
> noise,
> no signals.  I see the signals on my P3 just as they should be.  Normal
> amplitude, etc.  The only connections to the 2 meter module is power, 
> other
> cables not connected.
>
> Any ideas where the connector is that I somehow disconnected?
>
> Headed for the schematics.
>
> Filters were #1 was 2.7, #2 was 1.8, #3 was blank, #4 was 500, #5 was 250
> Filters now #1 is 13.0, #2 is 2.7, #3 is 1.8, #4 is 500, #5 is 250
> In config - just moved settings for #2 to #3 and #1 to #2 and added #1 as
> 13.0 and set for FM but NOT installed.
>
> Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP
>
>
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