[Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?

[Johnny Siu]

Yes, do the SSB filter calibration as per Don's website:
 
http://www.w3fpr.com/

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC



 寄件人︰ Andreas Hofmann 
收件人︰ Johnny Siu ; "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
傳送日期︰ 2012年09月29日 (週六) 2:26 PM
主題︰ RE: K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?
  

 
Thanks for the prompt reply.   
  
I have made both the mods you mentioned below (filer bandwidth and A2B).  In CW 
the K2 functions flawlessly, I get out more than 100W out on most bands.   
  
I am using the MH2 or Heil Pro set and just get horrible audio reports and the 
ALC does not play well.  On 40, the ALC comes on with 4 LEDs, but without 
reaching 100W; on other bands ALC never lights any LEDs.  It may be possibly 
that the SSB board is just misaligned.  It was my understanding that the 
filters for SSB are only used in receive, but in transmit the same filter as in 
CW is used, so alignment may not be the problem. 
  
Should I start with redoing all alignment steps for the SSB board? 
  
Thanks 
Andy, KU7T 
  
From:Johnny Siu [mailto:vr2...@yahoo.com.hk] 
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 10:56 PM
To: Andreas Hofmann; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?   
  
Hello Andy,  
   
Although I built a number of K2 in the past with much higher serial numbers, I 
have recently been doing the upgrade of a K2 in the region of #18xx.  I am in 
the same boat as yours.  
   
The KSB2 with mine is also Rev.D like yours. Perhaps, I would like to share 
with you the following:  
   
1. I got good power output and audio in SSB even when I am using an Adzen 
dynamic microphone worthing US$20.  This microphone is not so sensitive and I 
have to set SSBA3 and SSBC3.  If I use an Elecraft MH2, I need to reduce the 
setting to SSBA2 and SSBC2.  
   
2. I have no problem to get 10w or slightly over in SSB measured by my LP100A.  
   
3. There is not much difference between Rev D and Rev G other than Elecraft can 
no longer get the 8 pin SSM2165 for U3, so the design have to be changed to the 
SSM2166 14 pin device.  Therefore, I did not ask for a change of a new PCB.  I 
don't think you need that either.  
   
Therefore, before doing any modification, I would suggest the following:  
   
a. make sure the basic K2 (without KSB2)TX power and RX performance are 
according to the specifications;  
b. upon installation of KSB2, check the power output by key down or pressing 
TUNE, see whether you are able to get the same power output as the basic K2  
   
The REV D KSB2 gives an IF bandwidth of 2.1Khz.  Elecraft eventually did some 
changes in component values and gives you the choice between 2.4 / 2.6Khz.  The 
details are given here:  
   
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/SSBCAPKT.pdf  
   
In fact, there are a number of hardware changes since #2555, I would suggest 
you read the following;  
   
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf  
   
All the hardware modifications are not difficult to be handled.  Even I am not 
a radio man by professional, I still manage to do that.  
   
Finally, if you have problems, please feel free to email supp...@elecraft.com 
Elecraft staff are always there to give you guidance.  
   
TNX & 73,  
Johnny VR2XMC 
寄件人︰Andreas Hofmann 
收件人︰"Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
傳送日期︰2012年09月29日(週六) 12:42 PM
主題︰[Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old? 
 

Hi,

I never used my K2 for SSB, but now I would like too. My 9 year old daughter 
wants to get on it and I am getting my first yagi, so I do not need to use CW 
all the time :).

My K2 is S/N 2555. I have very inadequate power out and compression really 
distorts my audio (60 W on 40 with SSBA3, 5 W with SSBA 1).  From reading and 
some suggestions I found out, I probably should do these mods: 
http://www.qrpproject.de/Media/pdf/SSBModsUK.pdf. This should fix weak and 
raspy modulation.  Eventually, I really would like to have adequate SSB 
output/modulation and also add the DSP board.

Now, the issue is my SSB board is revision D, and the mods document describes I 
should have Rev E.  I seem to have 2 options:

1.      Figure out the difference between Rev D and Rev E (or Rev G as it is 
current) and fix my board up, or

2.      Get a new SSB board for $120 and do the mods on that one.


For 1) I am not sure if this is easily done. Where can I find out what the 
differences are between these boards.I know I have the filters matched between 
the RF and SSB boards, so this could create problems when getting a new board 
as in option 2), unless I
 reuse the old filters. Would it be possible to get the new board, use the old 
filters and plug it in in my rather old RF board?

I am not sure what I should do.  Any recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks
Andy,
KU7T, K2 #2555
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?

[Andreas Hofmann]

Thanks for the prompt reply.

I have made both the mods you mentioned below (filer bandwidth and A2B).  In CW 
the K2 functions flawlessly, I get out more than 100W out on most bands.

I am using the MH2 or Heil Pro set and just get horrible audio reports and the 
ALC does not play well.  On 40, the ALC comes on with 4 LEDs, but without 
reaching 100W; on other bands ALC never lights any LEDs.  It may be possibly 
that the SSB board is just misaligned.  It was my understanding that the 
filters for SSB are only used in receive, but in transmit the same filter as in 
CW is used, so alignment may not be the problem.

Should I start with redoing all alignment steps for the SSB board?

Thanks
Andy, KU7T

From: Johnny Siu [mailto:vr2...@yahoo.com.hk]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 10:56 PM
To: Andreas Hofmann; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?

Hello Andy,

Although I built a number of K2 in the past with much higher serial numbers, I 
have recently been doing the upgrade of a K2 in the region of #18xx.  I am in 
the same boat as yours.

The KSB2 with mine is also Rev.D like yours. Perhaps, I would like to share 
with you the following:

1. I got good power output and audio in SSB even when I am using an Adzen 
dynamic microphone worthing US$20.  This microphone is not so sensitive and I 
have to set SSBA3 and SSBC3.  If I use an Elecraft MH2, I need to reduce the 
setting to SSBA2 and SSBC2.

2. I have no problem to get 10w or slightly over in SSB measured by my LP100A.

3. There is not much difference between Rev D and Rev G other than Elecraft can 
no longer get the 8 pin SSM2165 for U3, so the design have to be changed to the 
SSM2166 14 pin device.  Therefore, I did not ask for a change of a new PCB.  I 
don't think you need that either.

Therefore, before doing any modification, I would suggest the following:

a. make sure the basic K2 (without KSB2)TX power and RX performance are 
according to the specifications;
b. upon installation of KSB2, check the power output by key down or pressing 
TUNE, see whether you are able to get the same power output as the basic K2

The REV D KSB2 gives an IF bandwidth of 2.1Khz.  Elecraft eventually did some 
changes in component values and gives you the choice between 2.4 / 2.6Khz.  The 
details are given here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/SSBCAPKT.pdf

In fact, there are a number of hardware changes since #2555, I would suggest 
you read the following;

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf

All the hardware modifications are not difficult to be handled.  Even I am not 
a radio man by professional, I still manage to do that.

Finally, if you have problems, please feel free to email 
supp...@elecraft.com Elecraft staff are always 
there to give you guidance.

TNX & 73,
Johnny VR2XMC
寄件人︰ Andreas Hofmann 
mailto:andreas.hofm...@microsoft.com>>
收件人︰ "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
傳送日期︰ 2012年09月29日 (週六) 12:42 PM
主題︰ [Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?

Hi,

I never used my K2 for SSB, but now I would like too. My 9 year old daughter 
wants to get on it and I am getting my first yagi, so I do not need to use CW 
all the time :).

My K2 is S/N 2555. I have very inadequate power out and compression really 
distorts my audio (60 W on 40 with SSBA3, 5 W with SSBA 1).  From reading and 
some suggestions I found out, I probably should do these mods: 
http://www.qrpproject.de/Media/pdf/SSBModsUK.pdf. This should fix weak and 
raspy modulation.  Eventually, I really would like to have adequate SSB 
output/modulation and also add the DSP board.

Now, the issue is my SSB board is revision D, and the mods document describes I 
should have Rev E.  I seem to have 2 options:

1.  Figure out the difference between Rev D and Rev E (or Rev G as it is 
current) and fix my board up, or

2.  Get a new SSB board for $120 and do the mods on that one.


For 1) I am not sure if this is easily done. Where can I find out what the 
differences are between these boards.I know I have the filters matched between 
the RF and SSB boards, so this could create problems when getting a new board 
as in option 2), unless I reuse the old filters. Would it be possible to get 
the new board, use the old filters and plug it in in my rather old RF board?

I am not sure what I should do.  Any recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks
Andy,
KU7T, K2 #2555



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 s/n 1965 on the air - and a power-up question

[kk7p4dsp]

Sounds like the ground return in the power connector wiring is open.

73,

Lyle

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 28, 2012, at 9:43 PM, Michael Aiello  wrote:

> I'm very excited to get my new KX3 on the air, and during my initial
> exploration of the rig, I discovered something unexpected. It appears
> that the rig will not power on if there is no antenna attached. I
> noticed this first when I disconnected the coax to change the antenna
> setup while the rig was on and in receive mode  - the rig immediately
> shut down. Then with the antenna disconnected I tried to power up - no
> response. After reconnecting the antenna, everything behaved normally.
> 
> I did not find any mention of this in the manual. I don't have an ATU
> installed, perhaps that might have an effect.
> 
> I am running from an external 20A power supply (a venerable TenTec
> 252M), and the load is RG 8X connected to an LDG Z-11 autotuner,
> feeding an outdoor dipole.
> 
> If this is normal behavior, does it have implications for doing
> firmware updates? Must the rig have some kind of load attached in
> order to power on to connect to the computer?
> 
> In all other respects everything is working fine and I am very pleased
> with the rig. My first CW contact was Bulgaria on 10w from the east
> coast!
> 
> 73
> Mike N2HTT
> __
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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[Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Andy,
 
Although I built a number of K2 in the past with much higher serial numbers, I 
have recently been doing the upgrade of a K2 in the region of #18xx.  I am in 
the same boat as yours.
 
The KSB2 with mine is also Rev.D like yours. Perhaps, I would like to share 
with you the following:
 
1. I got good power output and audio in SSB even when I am using an Adzen 
dynamic microphone worthing US$20.  This microphone is not so sensitive and I 
have to set SSBA3 and SSBC3.  If I use an Elecraft MH2, I need to reduce the 
setting to SSBA2 and SSBC2.
 
2. I have no problem to get 10w or slightly over in SSB measured by my LP100A.
 
3. There is not much difference between Rev D and Rev G other than Elecraft can 
no longer get the 8 pin SSM2165 for U3,  so the design have to be changed 
to the SSM2166 14 pin device.  Therefore, I did not ask for a change of a new 
PCB.  I don't think you need that either.
 
Therefore, before doing any modification, I would suggest the following:
 
a. make sure the basic K2 (without KSB2)TX power and RX performance are 
according to the specifications;
b. upon installation of KSB2, check the power output by key down or pressing 
TUNE, see whether you are able to get the same power output as the basic K2
 
The REV D KSB2 gives an IF bandwidth of 2.1Khz.  Elecraft eventually did some 
changes in component values and gives you the choice between 2.4 / 2.6Khz.  The 
details are given here:
 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/SSBCAPKT.pdf
 
In fact, there are a number of hardware changes since #2555, I would suggest 
you read the following;
 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf
 
All the hardware modifications are not difficult to be handled.  Even I am not 
a radio man by professional, I still manage to do that.
 
Finally, if you have problems, please feel free to email supp...@elecraft.com 
Elecraft staff are always there to give you guidance.

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC



 寄件人︰ Andreas Hofmann 
收件人︰ "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
傳送日期︰ 2012年09月29日 (週六) 12:42 PM
主題︰ [Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?
  
Hi,

I never used my K2 for SSB, but now I would like too. My 9 year old daughter 
wants to get on it and I am getting my first yagi, so I do not need to use CW 
all the time :).

My K2 is S/N 2555. I have very inadequate power out and compression really 
distorts my audio (60 W on 40 with SSBA3, 5 W with SSBA 1).  From reading and 
some suggestions I found out, I probably should do these mods: 
http://www.qrpproject.de/Media/pdf/SSBModsUK.pdf. This should fix weak and 
raspy modulation.  Eventually, I really would like to have adequate SSB 
output/modulation and also add the DSP board.

Now, the issue is my SSB board is revision D, and the mods document describes I 
should have Rev E.  I seem to have 2 options:

1.       Figure out the difference between Rev D and Rev E (or Rev G as it is 
current) and fix my board up, or

2.       Get a new SSB board for $120 and do the mods on that one.


For 1) I am not sure if this is easily done. Where can I find out what the 
differences are between these boards.I know I have the filters matched between 
the RF and SSB boards, so this could create problems when getting a new board 
as in option 2), unless I reuse the old filters. Would it be possible to get 
the new board, use the old filters and plug it in in my rather old RF board?

I am not sure what I should do.  Any recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks
Andy,
KU7T, K2 #2555
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[Elecraft] WTB: KIO2

[Johnny Siu]

Hello elecrafters,
 
I am looking for a KIO2 for my K2 in the used market.  KIO2 is very small and 
can be shipped by padded envelope via USPS priority international.
 
If you have a KIO2 surplus to your requirement (either built or un-built), 
please reply off-the-list.

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC
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[Elecraft] KX3 s/n 1965 on the air - and a power-up question

[Bob Cunnings]

Is the negative lead from your power supply to the KX3 open, maybe at
the DC input connector? If so, return current could be flowing through
the coax shield, antenna system ground etc. to find its way back to
the Ten-Tec supply through its chassis to V- connection. Disconnecting
the coax would interrupt power to the rig in such a case.

Might be worth checking.

Bob NW8L

>I'm very excited to get my new KX3 on the air, and during my initial
>exploration of the rig, I discovered something unexpected. It appears
>that the rig will not power on if there is no antenna attached. I
>noticed this first when I disconnected the coax to change the antenna
>setup while the rig was on and in receive mode  - the rig immediately
>shut down. Then with the antenna disconnected I tried to power up - no
>response. After reconnecting the antenna, everything behaved normally.
>
>I did not find any mention of this in the manual. I don't have an ATU
>installed, perhaps that might have an effect.
>
>I am running from an external 20A power supply (a venerable TenTec
>252M), and the load is RG 8X connected to an LDG Z-11 autotuner,
>feeding an outdoor dipole.
>
>If this is normal behavior, does it have implications for doing
>firmware updates? Must the rig have some kind of load attached in
>order to power on to connect to the computer?
>
>In all other respects everything is working fine and I am very pleased
>with the rig. My first CW contact was Bulgaria on 10w from the east
>coast!
>
>73
>Mike N2HTT
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 s/n 1965 on the air - and a power-up question

[Matt Maguire]

This doesn't seem like normal behaviour.

If you go into the menu and look at the "ATU MD" setting, is it set to "NOT 
INST"? If you set it to that value, and turn the radio off, do you observe the 
same behaviour?

73, Matt VK2ACL


On 29/09/2012, at 2:43 PM, Michael Aiello  wrote:

> I'm very excited to get my new KX3 on the air, and during my initial
> exploration of the rig, I discovered something unexpected. It appears
> that the rig will not power on if there is no antenna attached. I
> noticed this first when I disconnected the coax to change the antenna
> setup while the rig was on and in receive mode  - the rig immediately
> shut down. Then with the antenna disconnected I tried to power up - no
> response. After reconnecting the antenna, everything behaved normally.
> 
> I did not find any mention of this in the manual. I don't have an ATU
> installed, perhaps that might have an effect.
> 
> I am running from an external 20A power supply (a venerable TenTec
> 252M), and the load is RG 8X connected to an LDG Z-11 autotuner,
> feeding an outdoor dipole.
> 
> If this is normal behavior, does it have implications for doing
> firmware updates? Must the rig have some kind of load attached in
> order to power on to connect to the computer?
> 
> In all other respects everything is working fine and I am very pleased
> with the rig. My first CW contact was Bulgaria on 10w from the east
> coast!
> 
> 73
> Mike N2HTT
> __
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[Elecraft] KX3 s/n 1965 on the air - and a power-up question

[Michael Aiello]

I'm very excited to get my new KX3 on the air, and during my initial
exploration of the rig, I discovered something unexpected. It appears
that the rig will not power on if there is no antenna attached. I
noticed this first when I disconnected the coax to change the antenna
setup while the rig was on and in receive mode  - the rig immediately
shut down. Then with the antenna disconnected I tried to power up - no
response. After reconnecting the antenna, everything behaved normally.

I did not find any mention of this in the manual. I don't have an ATU
installed, perhaps that might have an effect.

I am running from an external 20A power supply (a venerable TenTec
252M), and the load is RG 8X connected to an LDG Z-11 autotuner,
feeding an outdoor dipole.

If this is normal behavior, does it have implications for doing
firmware updates? Must the rig have some kind of load attached in
order to power on to connect to the computer?

In all other respects everything is working fine and I am very pleased
with the rig. My first CW contact was Bulgaria on 10w from the east
coast!

73
Mike N2HTT
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[Elecraft] K2: Attempting K2 SSB modulation and ALC mods, but board too old?

[Andreas Hofmann]

Hi,

I never used my K2 for SSB, but now I would like too. My 9 year old daughter 
wants to get on it and I am getting my first yagi, so I do not need to use CW 
all the time :).

My K2 is S/N 2555. I have very inadequate power out and compression really 
distorts my audio (60 W on 40 with SSBA3, 5 W with SSBA 1).  From reading and 
some suggestions I found out, I probably should do these mods: 
http://www.qrpproject.de/Media/pdf/SSBModsUK.pdf. This should fix weak and 
raspy modulation.  Eventually, I really would like to have adequate SSB 
output/modulation and also add the DSP board.

Now, the issue is my SSB board is revision D, and the mods document describes I 
should have Rev E.  I seem to have 2 options:

1.   Figure out the difference between Rev D and Rev E (or Rev G as it is 
current) and fix my board up, or

2.   Get a new SSB board for $120 and do the mods on that one.


For 1) I am not sure if this is easily done. Where can I find out what the 
differences are between these boards.I know I have the filters matched between 
the RF and SSB boards, so this could create problems when getting a new board 
as in option 2), unless I reuse the old filters. Would it be possible to get 
the new board, use the old filters and plug it in in my rather old RF board?

I am not sure what I should do.  Any recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks
Andy,
KU7T, K2 #2555
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Re: [Elecraft] Can't get 160 sub working on K3

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

Hi Gary,

It sounds like your KRX3 filters are not configured correctly - and so
at some bandwidth range(s), you're selecting a slot that has no filter
in (or perhaps a bad or improperly installed filter). You should be
able to see the XFIL display change (to indicate which slot is
selected) as you adjust the bandwidth.

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 PM, Gary Smith  wrote:
> Thanks for the folks that answered. After futsing around with the
> settings I now have the solution to this specific dilemma:
>
> I have three filters in the sub and when I entered B Set and played
> with the different knobs, I found when I narrowed the filter width,
> there came a point where the sub was working as it should be. This
> was the solution to the problem and now the sub is working properly
> on all bands and so is diversity.
>
> I'm sure this is mentioned in the manual somewhere but I never found
> it.
>
> Hopefully this will help others who have this same problem come up.
>
> Gary
> KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Power connector size

[Christian AK4VV]

Somebody else is a fan of the enercell stuff ;-) .. I like their
2500mA wall wart with the adaptaplug.  Life saver on several
occasions.

73,
Christian
AK4VV

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 25, 2012, at 9:42, Rick Miller - AI1V  wrote:

> The manual states that the KX3 power connector is 2.1mm.  There are two
> standard sizes that have an inner diameter of 2.1mm.  One is 5.0mm OD and
> one is 5.5mm OD.  I believe that the supplied cable has an OD of 5.5mm, but
> just wanted to confirm.  Both sizes will probably work, but the larger size
> will be retained better as long as it isn't too large.  Can anyone confirm
> this before I make up my power cables?
>
> BTW - Radio Shack's size letters are 'K' for the 5.0mm OD and 'M' for the
> 5.5mm OD.
>
> Rick
> AI1V
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Power-connector-size-tp7563262.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

My analysis - while "floating the unbalanced tuner" may be possible in 
theory, in practice, it is not practical.  There are always be points 
that will be found to upset the balance.

There is a reason for creating balanced networks, and putting the balun 
on the input of an unbalanced network is just not one of them.

The bottom line is found at the end of the W8JI article.  "Moving the 
balun to  the input is only helpful when the balun is not needed".   So 
use the KAT100 or KAT500 as designed and put a balun on the output if 
you must use balanced feed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2012 9:47 PM, Bob Cunnings wrote:
> Maybe not. The analysis presented in this article:
>
> http://fermi.la.asu.edu/w9cf/articles/balun/
>
> leads to the conclusion that locating the choke balun at the input of
> the tuner, and floating the tuner,  offers an advantage only for
> balanced tuner designs (and good balance in the load). The stress on
> the balun in a high SWR situation is unchanged by moving it to the
> input. In short "An unbalanced tuner trades the large differential
> mode impedance for a large unbalanced impedance making the balun's job
> unchanged."
>
> W8JI also addresses the issue in this article:
>
> http://www.w8ji.com/tuner_baluns.htm
>
> and comes to the same conclusion, with emphasis on the need for good
> load balance in the case of a balanced tuner with choke balun at the
> input. He ends with: "The irony is, moving the balun to the input
> mostly works only when the balun is not needed!".
>
> Food for thought.
>
> I use a floating balanced-L tuner with choke balun at the input, but
> try to keep decent balance in the antenna system for this reason.
>
> Bob NW8L
>
>> There may be no difference in efficiency between putting the balun at the 
>> input
>> or the output of the tuner if you are operating into a nice 50ohm resistive
>> dummy load, but the situation changes if you are operating into an antenna 
>> fed
>> with ladder line on which there is a high SWR. In this case, the high SWR can
>> cause high currents that saturate the ferrite core in the balun, and causing
>> non-linearity and producing heat losses. This is why it may be preferable to
>> locate the balun at the input of the tuner, where the SWR on the transmission
>> line is low, and "float" the whole tuner. However, as Don mentioned, this can
>> present difficulties if the tuner is not a balanced design.
>>
>> 73, Matt VK2ACL
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Eric Buggee]

Hi Don & all,
Yes the reason for the length of 285 Ft is based 
on reading Cebick's musings in antennix on long wire anenna's / V beams 
& on to Rhombic antenna's, where Cebick notes that odd multiples of 1/4 
wavelength produce slightly more gain than multiples of 1/2 wavelength.

I think that I stumbled upon some serendipity with the 285Ft length 
cause it sure works!  All noted re the Bi-directionality, I considered 
it not worth the aggrivation & trouble to terminate the wires thats for 
sure.

73 from,

Eric Buggee, VK3AX.



On 9/29/2012 10:22 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Eric,
>
> A "V" beam will be quite directional (bidirectional) and the response 
> depends on frequency. especially at those frequencies where the length 
> is in excess of 1 wavelength.
>
> You must have found a good length if it operates well with the BL2 and 
> the KAT3 combination.
> The wire angle of 70 degrees is good for 40 meters through 20 meters, 
> but is effective for other bands as well.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/28/2012 8:04 PM, Eric Buggee wrote:
>> Hi Andrew, Don & all,
>>
>> I have a K3 (4520) and have recently installed a new antenna in the form
>> of a "V" beam with the bisector at about 7 Degrees east of North, with
>> the included angle at about 70 degrees and a leg length of 285Ft, height
>> above ground is 70 to 75 Ft, with ground sloping down away to N & NE for
>> 20Km.
>>
>> I have found that using the KAT3 in the K3 and a BL2 Balun it is useable
>> on all bands from 160 through to 6M with the worst VSWR of 1.5:1 showing
>> up on 160 at 1860KHz.
>>
>> Reports from stations at, 1 to 5000 Km north from Emerald in the ranges
>> 60 KM East of Melbourne in VK3 land give the "V" beam an advantage of 2
>> to 3 Sunits over the main antenna running NE to SW (A full sized 160M
>> dipole at 105Ft, fed with OW line spced 6inches) .
>>
>> Reports run as follows:-  160M, generally 1 S unit down WR to the 160M
>> dipole;
>>
>> 80M, equal to & sometimes 1 S unit better (on average) compared to the
>> 160 M dipole appears to be dependent upon time of day & prop'n 
>> conditions;
>>
>> 40M, definitely better with 1 to 2 S units better most of the time (day
>> or night);
>>
>> 30 M, definitely better by consistent 2 to 3 Sunits better at 3 to 
>> 5000Km;
>>
>> 20 M like 30 M consistently better than the 160 M dipole by 2 to 3 S
>> units at 3 to 5000Km distance.
>>
>> The higher bands, with the V Beam I am hearing DX stations that are not
>> even detectable on the 160 M dipole (8 & 24MHz), but, so far no
>> definitive contacts made using the V beam to give a real evalution as
>> yet.  It has only been operational for about 10 days.
>>
>> Hope the foregoing is of interest,
>>
>> 73,
>>
>>   From Eric VK3AX.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/29/2012 9:06 AM, Andrew Moore wrote:
>>> Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
>>> been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
>>> configuration.
>>>
>>> The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. 
>>> I've
>>> read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others 
>>> in which
>>> the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
>>> side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
>>> factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.
>>>
>>> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.
>>>
>>> All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but 
>>> if you
>>> have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear 
>>> (KAT3 to
>>> BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> --Andrew, NV1B
>>> maineware.net
>>> ..
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Andrew,

 A bit of 'trivia' first:
 That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner. The initial
 design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to 
 "float"
 the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.

 There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
 tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference 
 between
 the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
 changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a 
 balun at
 the output of the tuner.

 "trivia off":

 So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 
 KAT3 can
 easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of 
 the KAT3.


>>> __
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>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>> ___

Re: [Elecraft] Can't get 160 sub working on K3

[Gary Smith]

Thanks for the folks that answered. After futsing around with the 
settings I now have the solution to this specific dilemma:

I have three filters in the sub and when I entered B Set and played 
with the different knobs, I found when I narrowed the filter width, 
there came a point where the sub was working as it should be. This 
was the solution to the problem and now the sub is working properly 
on all bands and so is diversity.

I'm sure this is mentioned in the manual somewhere but I never found 
it.

Hopefully this will help others who have this same problem come up.

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Bob Cunnings]

Maybe not. The analysis presented in this article:

http://fermi.la.asu.edu/w9cf/articles/balun/

leads to the conclusion that locating the choke balun at the input of
the tuner, and floating the tuner,  offers an advantage only for
balanced tuner designs (and good balance in the load). The stress on
the balun in a high SWR situation is unchanged by moving it to the
input. In short "An unbalanced tuner trades the large differential
mode impedance for a large unbalanced impedance making the balun's job
unchanged."

W8JI also addresses the issue in this article:

http://www.w8ji.com/tuner_baluns.htm

and comes to the same conclusion, with emphasis on the need for good
load balance in the case of a balanced tuner with choke balun at the
input. He ends with: "The irony is, moving the balun to the input
mostly works only when the balun is not needed!".

Food for thought.

I use a floating balanced-L tuner with choke balun at the input, but
try to keep decent balance in the antenna system for this reason.

Bob NW8L

>There may be no difference in efficiency between putting the balun at the input
>or the output of the tuner if you are operating into a nice 50ohm resistive
>dummy load, but the situation changes if you are operating into an antenna fed
>with ladder line on which there is a high SWR. In this case, the high SWR can
>cause high currents that saturate the ferrite core in the balun, and causing
>non-linearity and producing heat losses. This is why it may be preferable to
>locate the balun at the input of the tuner, where the SWR on the transmission
>line is low, and "float" the whole tuner. However, as Don mentioned, this can
>present difficulties if the tuner is not a balanced design.
>
>73, Matt VK2ACL
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[Elecraft] WTB: KAT2

[wd8rif]

I'm thinking it might finally be time to add a KAT2 QRP autotuner to my K2.
Does anyone have a KAT2 in need of a good home?

Eric, WD8RIF
http://home.frognet.net/~mcfadden/wd8rif/radio.htm



--
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Nate Bargmann]

* On 2012 28 Sep 18:07 -0500, Andrew Moore wrote:
 
> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.

Hi Andrew.

For learning the theory on a lot of this stuff, a good reference on the
topic is Reflections III by Walt Maxwell, W2DU (SK), published by CQ
Communications.  Walt did a very good job explaining the 'what' and 'why' on
impedance matching and also some gave some 'how' on dealing with it in a
practical manner.  The book has its roots in a series of articles he
wrote in the '70s for QST titled, "Another Look at Reflections" and the
series can be found on the ARRL's QST archive.  I have the first edition
but procrastinated and never got the second edition published by World
Radio, now owned by CQ.

73, de Nate, N0NB >>

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Don Wilhelm]

Eric,

A "V" beam will be quite directional (bidirectional) and the response 
depends on frequency. especially at those frequencies where the length 
is in excess of 1 wavelength.

You must have found a good length if it operates well with the BL2 and 
the KAT3 combination.
The wire angle of 70 degrees is good for 40 meters through 20 meters, 
but is effective for other bands as well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2012 8:04 PM, Eric Buggee wrote:
> Hi Andrew, Don & all,
>
> I have a K3 (4520) and have recently installed a new antenna in the form
> of a "V" beam with the bisector at about 7 Degrees east of North, with
> the included angle at about 70 degrees and a leg length of 285Ft, height
> above ground is 70 to 75 Ft, with ground sloping down away to N & NE for
> 20Km.
>
> I have found that using the KAT3 in the K3 and a BL2 Balun it is useable
> on all bands from 160 through to 6M with the worst VSWR of 1.5:1 showing
> up on 160 at 1860KHz.
>
> Reports from stations at, 1 to 5000 Km north from Emerald in the ranges
> 60 KM East of Melbourne in VK3 land give the "V" beam an advantage of 2
> to 3 Sunits over the main antenna running NE to SW (A full sized 160M
> dipole at 105Ft, fed with OW line spced 6inches) .
>
> Reports run as follows:-  160M, generally 1 S unit down WR to the 160M
> dipole;
>
> 80M, equal to & sometimes 1 S unit better (on average) compared to the
> 160 M dipole appears to be dependent upon time of day & prop'n conditions;
>
> 40M, definitely better with 1 to 2 S units better most of the time (day
> or night);
>
> 30 M, definitely better by consistent 2 to 3 Sunits better at 3 to 5000Km;
>
> 20 M like 30 M consistently better than the 160 M dipole by 2 to 3 S
> units at 3 to 5000Km distance.
>
> The higher bands, with the V Beam I am hearing DX stations that are not
> even detectable on the 160 M dipole (8 & 24MHz), but, so far no
> definitive contacts made using the V beam to give a real evalution as
> yet.  It has only been operational for about 10 days.
>
> Hope the foregoing is of interest,
>
> 73,
>
>   From Eric VK3AX.
>
>
>
> On 9/29/2012 9:06 AM, Andrew Moore wrote:
>> Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
>> been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
>> configuration.
>>
>> The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. I've
>> read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others in which
>> the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
>> side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
>> factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.
>>
>> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.
>>
>> All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but if you
>> have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear (KAT3 to
>> BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --Andrew, NV1B
>> maineware.net
>> ..
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>
>>> Andrew,
>>>
>>> A bit of 'trivia' first:
>>> That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial
>>> design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to "float"
>>> the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.
>>>
>>> There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
>>> tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference between
>>> the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
>>> changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a balun at
>>> the output of the tuner.
>>>
>>> "trivia off":
>>>
>>> So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 KAT3 can
>>> easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of the KAT3.
>>>
>>>
>> __
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>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Can't get 160 sub working on K3

[Gary Smith]

I have no idea. Works fine on the main rx & used to work last year 
but I must have unselected something somehow for 160 on the sub.


> 
> Is 160 band-mapped "in"?
> 
> 73,
> 
> Kent K9ZTV
> 
> 
> 
> On 9/28/2012 7:14 PM, Gary Smith wrote: 
> 
> Works fine on other bands. I've tried the 
> "rf calibration" on the sub as well as 
> main and it's working fine. I must have 
> bumped something somehow as I can't hear 
> anything other than internal hiss on 160 
> but on 80, 40 & so on the Rx antenna is 
> apparently working fine.
> 
> Anyone well versed in what I might do, 
> please contact me off list.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
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> 
> 
> 
> 



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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Eric Buggee]

On 9/29/2012 10:04 AM, Eric Buggee wrote: Addendum to my original post.
> Hi Andrew, Don & all,
>
> I have a K3 (4520) and have recently installed a new antenna in the 
> form of a "V" beam with the bisector at about 7 Degrees east of North, 
> with the included angle at about 70 degrees and a leg length of 285Ft, 
> height above ground is 70 to 75 Ft, with ground sloping down away to N 
> & NE for 20Km.
 " I should have added: the following".

   " The feed line from the BL2 which is mounted under the eaves of the 
shack with about 3M of RG58  to the K3.
  From the BL2 at 10Ft above ground to the V beam I have a run of 
73Ft of Ladder Line with 14Gauge Copperweld conductors."
>
> I have found that using the KAT3 in the K3 and the BL2 Balun it is 
> useable on all bands from 160 through to 6M with the worst VSWR of 
> 1.5:1 showing up on 160 at 1860KHz.
>
> Reports from stations at, 1 to 5000 Km north from Emerald in the 
> ranges 60 KM East of Melbourne in VK3 land give the "V" beam an 
> advantage of 2 to 3 Sunits over the main antenna running NE to SW (A 
> full sized 160M dipole at 105Ft, fed with OW line spced 6inches) .
>
> Reports run as follows:-  160M, generally 1 S unit down WR to the 160M 
> dipole;
>
> 80M, equal to & sometimes 1 S unit better (on average) compared to the 
> 160 M dipole appears to be dependent upon time of day & prop'n 
> conditions;
>
> 40M, definitely better with 1 to 2 S units better most of the time 
> (day or night);
>
> 30 M, definitely better by consistent 2 to 3 Sunits better at 3 to 
> 5000Km;
>
> 20 M like 30 M consistently better than the 160 M dipole by 2 to 3 S 
> units at 3 to 5000Km distance.
>
> The higher bands, with the V Beam I am hearing DX stations that are 
> not even detectable on the 160 M dipole (8 & 24MHz), but, so far no 
> definitive contacts made using the V beam to give a real evalution as 
> yet.  It has only been operational for about 10 days.
>
> Hope the foregoing is of interest,
>
> 73,
>
> From Eric VK3AX.
>
>
>
> On 9/29/2012 9:06 AM, Andrew Moore wrote:
>> Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
>> been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
>> configuration.
>>
>> The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. 
>> I've
>> read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others in 
>> which
>> the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
>> side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
>> factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.
>>
>> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.
>>
>> All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but 
>> if you
>> have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear 
>> (KAT3 to
>> BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --Andrew, NV1B
>> maineware.net
>> ..
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Andrew,
>>>
>>> A bit of 'trivia' first:
>>> That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial
>>> design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to 
>>> "float"
>>> the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.
>>>
>>> There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
>>> tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference 
>>> between
>>> the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
>>> changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a 
>>> balun at
>>> the output of the tuner.
>>>
>>> "trivia off":
>>>
>>> So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 
>>> KAT3 can
>>> easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of 
>>> the KAT3.
>>>
>>>
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>
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>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>

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[Elecraft] Can't get 160 sub working on K3

[Gary Smith]

Works fine on other bands. I've tried the 
"rf calibration" on the sub as well as 
main and it's working fine. I must have 
bumped something somehow as I can't hear 
anything other than internal hiss on 160 
but on 80, 40 & so on the Rx antenna is 
apparently working fine.

Anyone well versed in what I might do, 
please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Gary
KA1J

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[Elecraft] Can't get 160 sub working on K3

[Gary Smith]

Works fine on other bands. I've tried the 
"rf calibration" on the sub as well as 
main and it's working fine. I must have 
bumped something somehow as I can't hear 
anything other than internal hiss on 160 
but on 80, 40 & so on the Rx antenna is 
apparently working fine.

Anyone well versed in what I might do, 
please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Eric Buggee]

Hi Andrew, Don & all,

I have a K3 (4520) and have recently installed a new antenna in the form 
of a "V" beam with the bisector at about 7 Degrees east of North, with 
the included angle at about 70 degrees and a leg length of 285Ft, height 
above ground is 70 to 75 Ft, with ground sloping down away to N & NE for 
20Km.

I have found that using the KAT3 in the K3 and a BL2 Balun it is useable 
on all bands from 160 through to 6M with the worst VSWR of 1.5:1 showing 
up on 160 at 1860KHz.

Reports from stations at, 1 to 5000 Km north from Emerald in the ranges 
60 KM East of Melbourne in VK3 land give the "V" beam an advantage of 2 
to 3 Sunits over the main antenna running NE to SW (A full sized 160M 
dipole at 105Ft, fed with OW line spced 6inches) .

Reports run as follows:-  160M, generally 1 S unit down WR to the 160M 
dipole;

80M, equal to & sometimes 1 S unit better (on average) compared to the 
160 M dipole appears to be dependent upon time of day & prop'n conditions;

40M, definitely better with 1 to 2 S units better most of the time (day 
or night);

30 M, definitely better by consistent 2 to 3 Sunits better at 3 to 5000Km;

20 M like 30 M consistently better than the 160 M dipole by 2 to 3 S 
units at 3 to 5000Km distance.

The higher bands, with the V Beam I am hearing DX stations that are not 
even detectable on the 160 M dipole (8 & 24MHz), but, so far no 
definitive contacts made using the V beam to give a real evalution as 
yet.  It has only been operational for about 10 days.

Hope the foregoing is of interest,

73,

 From Eric VK3AX.



On 9/29/2012 9:06 AM, Andrew Moore wrote:
> Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
> been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
> configuration.
>
> The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. I've
> read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others in which
> the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
> side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
> factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.
>
> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.
>
> All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but if you
> have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear (KAT3 to
> BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).
>
> Thanks,
> --Andrew, NV1B
> maineware.net
> ..
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> A bit of 'trivia' first:
>> That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial
>> design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to "float"
>> the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.
>>
>> There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
>> tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference between
>> the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
>> changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a balun at
>> the output of the tuner.
>>
>> "trivia off":
>>
>> So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 KAT3 can
>> easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of the KAT3.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Don Wilhelm]

Andrew,

The BL2 on the output of the tuner may not be the total answer.  The 
conditions and situations are too numerous to address.  I would suggest 
some study into antennas and transmission lines before assuming that 
"anything will work" - because it is not true that "anything will work".
The one thing I can say is that if you can make an antenna take a load, 
that power will be radiated.  Beyond that statement, I take no 
responsibility for the specifics, it all depends on the particular 
installation.

As one "for instance", attempting to feed the end of a 1/2 wavelength 
wire will likely result in failure.  The KAT3 is not designed to work 
into a quite high impedance.

73.
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2012 7:06 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:
> Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
> been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
> configuration.
>
> The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. I've
> read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others in which
> the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
> side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
> factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.
>
> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.
>
> All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but if you
> have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear (KAT3 to
> BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).
>
> Thanks,
> --Andrew, NV1B
> maineware.net
> ..
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> A bit of 'trivia' first:
>> That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial
>> design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to "float"
>> the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.
>>
>> There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
>> tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference between
>> the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
>> changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a balun at
>> the output of the tuner.
>>
>> "trivia off":
>>
>> So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 KAT3 can
>> easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of the KAT3.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Matt Maguire]

There may be no difference in efficiency between putting the balun at the input 
or the output of the tuner if you are operating into a nice 50ohm resistive 
dummy load, but the situation changes if you are operating into an antenna fed 
with ladder line on which there is a high SWR. In this case, the high SWR can 
cause high currents that saturate the ferrite core in the balun, and causing 
non-linearity and producing heat losses. This is why it may be preferable to 
locate the balun at the input of the tuner, where the SWR on the transmission 
line is low, and "float" the whole tuner. However, as Don mentioned, this can 
present difficulties if the tuner is not a balanced design. 

73, Matt VK2ACL

On 29/09/2012, at 9:06 AM, Andrew Moore  wrote:

> Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
> been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
> configuration.
> 
> The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. I've
> read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others in which
> the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
> side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
> factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.
> 
> I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.
> 
> All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but if you
> have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear (KAT3 to
> BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).
> 
> Thanks,
> --Andrew, NV1B
> maineware.net
> ..
> 
> 
> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
>> Andrew,
>> 
>> A bit of 'trivia' first:
>> That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial
>> design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to "float"
>> the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.
>> 
>> There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
>> tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference between
>> the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
>> changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a balun at
>> the output of the tuner.
>> 
>> "trivia off":
>> 
>> So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 KAT3 can
>> easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of the KAT3.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Andrew Moore]

Great; thank you for the trivia, very helpful. I figured it had already
been considered and that there was a good reason for the current
configuration.

The BL2 following the KAT3 was exactly one option I was considering. I've
read about several cases in which ops had success, but read others in which
the balun was heating perhaps due to excessive reactance on the antenna
side. Reactance is likely dependent on the frequency/band and several
factors in the antenna system which could explain the mixed results.

I think I will try this approach and enjoy the experimenting.

All: Not looking to turn this in to an OT antenna theory thread, but if you
have specific experience with this configuration, I'd like to hear (KAT3 to
BL2 to ladder to simple dipole).

Thanks,
--Andrew, NV1B
maineware.net
..


On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Andrew,
>
> A bit of 'trivia' first:
> That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial
> design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to "float"
> the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.
>
> There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the
> tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference between
> the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the design was
> changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or desired) a balun at
> the output of the tuner.
>
> "trivia off":
>
> So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 KAT3 can
> easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of the KAT3.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Don Wilhelm]

Andrew,

A bit of 'trivia' first:
That was "supposed" to be a solution in the KAT500 tuner.  The initial 
design put the balun on the input of the tuner, and attempted to "float" 
the rest of the tuner while trying to maintain balance.

There were problems with maintaining balance through the rest of the 
tuner, while studies indicated there was no efficiency difference 
between the balun at the input vs. the balun at the output, so the 
design was changed to an unbalanced design driving (if required or 
desired) a balun at the output of the tuner.

"trivia off":

So more specific to your question, a balanced output from the K3 KAT3 
can easily be obtained by using an Elecraft BL2 on the output side of 
the KAT3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2012 6:22 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:
> I'd love to see a K3 built-in ATU with balanced outputs to feed "ladder"
> line. Has this been considered and dismissed, or is it a possibility for a
> future option?
>
> I'm guessing this might be a problem for the already crowded rear panel,
> but could it be provided as a plug-in board (like the KANT3 or the KAT3)
> that uses the two antenna ports (ANT1, ANT2) for the two sides of the
> ladder line, and does away with the SO239 altogether?
>
> Failing that, could the functionality be provided in the KAT500?
>
> Apologies if this has already been discussed; I haven't found much
> discussion on it in the archives.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA

[Paul Saffren N6HZ]

Hi David, 

What are the versions of firmware in your P3 and SVGA boards? (you can find
this out by connecting the P3 utility to the P3.)

It sure sounds like you have some early firmware, the flattening out of the
spectral trace when moving the VFO knob was fixed some time ago.   BTW the
SVGA is going to be slightly slower refreshing as compared to the P3 since
it is performing twice the FFT points and is displaying up to 4 times the
display pixels.  If you need help, please email me directly.  My email is
pauls at elecraft . 

73, 

Paul





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-tp7563397p7563399.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Is a K3 ATU with balanced outputs possible?

[Andrew Moore]

I'd love to see a K3 built-in ATU with balanced outputs to feed "ladder"
line. Has this been considered and dismissed, or is it a possibility for a
future option?

I'm guessing this might be a problem for the already crowded rear panel,
but could it be provided as a plug-in board (like the KANT3 or the KAT3)
that uses the two antenna ports (ANT1, ANT2) for the two sides of the
ladder line, and does away with the SO239 altogether?

Failing that, could the functionality be provided in the KAT500?

Apologies if this has already been discussed; I haven't found much
discussion on it in the archives.

--Andrew, NV1B
maineware.net
..
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware upgrade - Win7

[Mike]

After I go to the firmware tab, if I click "Check Versions Now" the 
utility will not proceed until the files are downloaded from Elecraft, 
as there is nothing to compare. I do not get a loop of trying to connect.

Are you using version 1.12.3.28 of the utility?

HTH.

73, Mike
> Mike NF4L wrote :
>
>
>
>> No problems here, Ken. Some more info about Aki's problems would
> probably help.
>
> What _*exactly*_ is his issue?
>
> Utility doesn't run? Error messages?
>
> Utility doesn't connect to rig? Cable type? (Rs_232 or USB) Com port
> number assigned in Win7?
>
> Utility connects, but load fails?
>
> Wind from the Nor'West? :-D>
>
>
>
> Aki ZL1GO reports :-
>
>
> Win7 utility first step - test communications : recognizes Com port and shows
> com3 speed 38400b.
> Then move to firmware window: click Check Versions Now--->
> Attempting to contact K3 endless try 38400 b to 4800 b., then connection 
> is lost..
>
> Thanks for all the help.
>
> 73, Ken ZL1AIH
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[Elecraft] P3 SVGA

[David Boyd]

The SVGA adapter for the P3 is a lot more sluggish than the P3 display
itself.  Whenever I move the tuning knob, the display flattens out at the
bottom of the screen and then recovers.  A few days ago I managed somehow to
freeze the P3 display.  When I did, the SVGA display suddenly started
working beautifully, maintaining nice displays even when I tuned and with a
lot more resolution than the P3 (which is what you want).  Unfortunately, I
managed to "fix" the frozen P3 display so now I'm back to the SVGA display
as it was before.  That suggests to me that the processor can't manage both
displays at the same time.  But whatever the cause, is there a function I
didn't realize that allows me to freeze the P3 display to improve the SVGA
display?  If so, I'd sure like to know what it is.

 

Spike, K9MX

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[Elecraft] K3 Firmware upgrade - Win7

[Adrian]

Connect K3 USB FTDI cable direct to K3 and try the K3 update again.

 

It sounds like There is a P3 in there, that needs updating too, and has the
piggyback connection across to the K3 with the main connection to P3?

 

In anycase, If it is the later FTDI type usb-ser cable then this program
will verify and enable user comport No select on the device;

 

http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities/Reassign%20COMNo%20Utility.zip

 

 

 

 

Aki ZL1GO reports :-

 

 

Win7 utility first step - test communications : recognizes Com port and
shows

com3 speed 38400b.

Then move to firmware window: click Check Versions Now--->

Attempting to contact K3 endless try 38400 b to 4800 b., then connection
is lost..

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

73, Ken ZL1AIH

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware upgrade - Win7

[Robert Mccormack]

Mike NF4L wrote :



>No problems here, Ken. Some more info about Aki's problems would 
probably help.

What _*exactly*_ is his issue?

Utility doesn't run? Error messages?

Utility doesn't connect to rig? Cable type? (Rs_232 or USB) Com port 
number assigned in Win7?

Utility connects, but load fails?

Wind from the Nor'West? :-D>



Aki ZL1GO reports :-


Win7 utility first step - test communications : recognizes Com port and shows
com3 speed 38400b.
Then move to firmware window: click Check Versions Now--->
Attempting to contact K3 endless try 38400 b to 4800 b., then connection is 
lost..

Thanks for all the help.

73, Ken ZL1AIH
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[Elecraft] Fwd:

[Len Johnson]

this is pretty awesome you should look into this 
http://articles.local9newswest.net/work/?read=66675

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware upgrade - Win7

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

The Prolific drivers have been problematic in recent years.  73, Guy.

On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 1:56 PM, Brian Hunt  wrote:
> I recently upgraded to a Windows 7-64 bit HP machine due to the demise
> of my Windows XP Pro laptop.  The biggest problem I had was going from a
> physical RS232 serial port on the laptop to a USB to RS232 converter.  I
> tried several failures before I hit on a solution that worked.  It is a
> USB/RS232 converter with an FTDI chipset and current drivers for it in
> Windwos 7-64 bit.  Try as I might I couldn't make a converter with the
> Prolific chipset work. Note that Elecraft have gone to a KUSB with the
> FTDI chipset.  You didn't give many details of your friend's problems
> but I'd bet the above is part of it.
>
> Brian, K0DTJ
>
> Hope this helps
> On 9/27/2012 9:30 PM, Robert Mccormack wrote:
>> Has anyone on the list experienced problems with Win7 when attempting a K3 
>> firmware upgrade?
>>
>> My friend Aki ZL1GO has attempted the upgrade using his new Win7 computer 
>> without success - no
>>
>> problems with his old XP machine.
>>
>>
>> I have only XP, so I can't help him.
>>
>> 73,
>> Ken ZL1AIH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware upgrade - Win7

[Brian Hunt]

I recently upgraded to a Windows 7-64 bit HP machine due to the demise 
of my Windows XP Pro laptop.  The biggest problem I had was going from a 
physical RS232 serial port on the laptop to a USB to RS232 converter.  I 
tried several failures before I hit on a solution that worked.  It is a 
USB/RS232 converter with an FTDI chipset and current drivers for it in 
Windwos 7-64 bit.  Try as I might I couldn't make a converter with the 
Prolific chipset work. Note that Elecraft have gone to a KUSB with the 
FTDI chipset.  You didn't give many details of your friend's problems 
but I'd bet the above is part of it.

Brian, K0DTJ

Hope this helps
On 9/27/2012 9:30 PM, Robert Mccormack wrote:
> Has anyone on the list experienced problems with Win7 when attempting a K3 
> firmware upgrade?
>
> My friend Aki ZL1GO has attempted the upgrade using his new Win7 computer 
> without success - no
>
> problems with his old XP machine.
>
>
> I have only XP, so I can't help him.
>
> 73,
> Ken ZL1AIH
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Re: [Elecraft] Question please

[Richard Fjeld]

Thanks for the replies, Fred and John.  Just a background note; I've had at 
least one computer ever since circa 1975-6, when Apple was making it's 
debut. I bought a computer called Ohio Scientific which used the same 6502 
cpu.  I think Control Data later sold the computers for awhile. I chose that 
model because Apple only had 40 columns on the screen whereas the Ohio 
Scientific had 64, and I could type a fair letter and print it out.  There 
were no floppy's yet.  We stored everything on tape cassette at 300 baud 
asynchronous.  I stayed on the PC side ever since. (Please, no debate)

I have had a variety of machines over the years, mostly Gateway and HP. I 
built the one I'm using for this email.  I don't rush out to buy the newest 
or best.  I am more interested in software, and what it will do for me.  I 
have tried the Linux thing, and SDR.  (Again, Please, no debate.)

I really do not want to abandon some of my old Windows software, some of 
which I have upgraded from DOS, but which got bought out and eliminated. 
Imagine trying to keep 20+ years of accounting data in use with software 
from a company that no longer exists. (It is still excellent software.) 
Another example; I prefer a much older version of a certain Bible software 
over the newer versions, hands down.  It's much more user friendly and 
faster.

I didn't think about the 32/64 bit thing when I bought this laptop.  I 
couldn't pass up the price, and I wanted to investigate Win 7.  I did, and I 
like XP the best, and I hope it will still be compatible with future MOBO's. 
BTW, I still need DOS capability for our Vertex repeaters.

Some folks like complicated dependencies.  I like to press a power button, 
check my tuner, and operate.  That is why I chose the K3. It was a tough 
decision. Other radios will do that but it was the P3 that sealed the 
decision.  I have a computer connected to my K3/P3, but it isn't needed for 
general operating.
73,
Rich, n0ce

- Original Message - 
From: "Fred Smith" 
To: ; "'Richard Fjeld'" ; 
"'elecraft'" 
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 8:22 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Question please


> All I run any more is Dell computers from laptops to XPS machines for a
> total of 6 computers 4 that are use3d for ham radio 3 of them 100% of the
> time and 1 about 60% of the time, Every one of these machines are running
> Win7 64 in all flavors 2 Ultimate and the rest Home Premium 64. All run
> flawlessly with every ham application I have at total of about 75 programs
> all together and not one single problem. The only problem you might have 
> is
> trying to run very old programs and if you have those it's time to 
> upgrade.
> It sounds like your computers could use a "Tune up" for sure hidden 
> problems
> for sure.
>
> 73'
> Fred/N0AZZ
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3][K3][KRX3] Viewing cursors for both receivers on P3

[Eduardo González]

Turn on VFO B menu item of P3

Edu YY4GMJ

On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 8:11 AM, Dale Boresz  wrote:
> When using the second receiver w/ the K3 and P3, is there a way to have
> a second cursor representing the frequency of the 2nd rx on the P3?
> Currently the  only way I have been able to get this to work is to
> engage "Split", but my goal is to be able to tune around the same band
> with the second rx  (within the current passband of the P3) while
> listening to a station on the main RX, and be able to view both VFO's on
> the P3 -- while not being in 'split' mode.
>
> 73, Dale
> WA8SRA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3][K3][KRX3] Viewing cursors for both receivers on P3

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Dale,

I always see the VFO-B cursor on my P3. VFO-A is green, VFO-B is magenta,
and when in split, the actual transmit frequency is in red. If you don't see
the magenta cursor then you may have the VFO-B cursor turned off. Press the
P3 menu button and turn the knob until you see VFO B. Press the knob and the
cursor should appear.

A secondary problem might be that VFO-B is tuned too far away from VFO-A to
still be on the screen. When that happens you will see a magenta arrow
pointing in the direction of VFO-B. You might be able to make it visible by
increasing the frequency scale of the P3. 

73,
Mike K2MK



Dale Boresz wrote
> When using the second receiver w/ the K3 and P3, is there a way to have 
> a second cursor representing the frequency of the 2nd rx on the P3?  
> Currently the  only way I have been able to get this to work is to 
> engage "Split", but my goal is to be able to tune around the same band 
> with the second rx  (within the current passband of the P3) while 
> listening to a station on the main RX, and be able to view both VFO's on 
> the P3 -- while not being in 'split' mode.
> 
> 73, Dale
> WA8SRA





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-K3-KRX3-Viewing-cursors-for-both-receivers-on-P3-tp7563384p7563388.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Question please

[Fred Smith]

All I run any more is Dell computers from laptops to XPS machines for a
total of 6 computers 4 that are use3d for ham radio 3 of them 100% of the
time and 1 about 60% of the time, Every one of these machines are running
Win7 64 in all flavors 2 Ultimate and the rest Home Premium 64. All run
flawlessly with every ham application I have at total of about 75 programs
all together and not one single problem. The only problem you might have is
trying to run very old programs and if you have those it's time to upgrade.
It sounds like your computers could use a "Tune up" for sure hidden problems
for sure.

73'
Fred/N0AZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Ragle
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 6:13 AM
To: Richard Fjeld; elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question please

Hi, Richard...

 I started my most recent cycle of ham activity with an early XP
machine...for what it's worth, XP Pro is an outstanding OS...but I seem to
allow myself to be dragged along with OS development, and went through VISTA
and into WIN 7. I have 3 machines currently in use, 2 of which run WIN 7
Home Premium, and 1 that runs WIN 7 Ultimate. The WIN 7 machines are all 32
bit machines. In the household, we also have a WIN 7 Home Premium that is a
64 bit machine. It happens that these machines get swapped around from time
to time, along with an old Lenovo Thinkpad, still running VISTA.

 Currently, my ham radio gear is limping (quite literally!) along on the
WIN 7 Ultimate 32-bit machine, which no longer boots properly. 
Fortunately, when it has gathered itself together, it runs fine. We leave it
running (after much travail trying to get it "fixed"). It has, apparently,
several serious problems.

 Thus the nexus I mentioned in my earlier post...I had to confront the
reality of replacing the DELL XPS-420, and thus faced a number of
choices...what OS?, what style MoBo?, what style chassis, and particularly
how many and what kind of expansion slots the replacement was to have.

 Our household has been using DELL machines for a long time, and with
pretty good success. I recently went outside this boundary and bought an
ACER laptop,  64-bit machine, which did not work properly from the get-go,
and which I exchanged for a DELL laptop of similar design. 
The salient point is that when one commits to a laptop, one more or less
gives up any possibility of expansion slots, etc. and so this machine will
never see ham radio use.

 This brings this long-winded discussion back to the 32-bit WIN 7
Ultimate machine, which has a number of PCI and PCIe slots, several of which
I use for the radios. I won't bother you with the details, since your laptop
is doubtless, like most, non-expandable. The machine is a dual-core, 3 GHz
machine, and it has never faltered in running the radios. Normally when
running the K3/P3, I run a video frame-grabber to expand the tiny P3
screen_into a __window_. I also have used a PMSDR with a Quartet
dual-channel 192-kHz A/D sound card.

 So my conclusion would be that using the 32 bit version of WIN 7 does
not impose any  obvious restrictions. It is getting hard to find expandable
machines that are vended with a 32-bit OS, and so I was pleasantly surprised
to find that digging around in DELL's shambles of a web site found one. It
is due to arrive today, so I can finally bury the
XPS-420 and give it a try. If I have any problem, I will let you know.

 In the meantime, good luck and enjoy our magnificent hobby. BTW I
condemn in strongest terms the prevailing idea that the consumer does not
need a set of OS disks...but many vendors will sell them to you for a buck
or two.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

==

On 9/28/2012 1:23 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> John,
>
> I saw your post and I'm curious about Win7 in 32bit.  I recently 
> bought a HP Compaq laptop that had Win7 loaded in 64bit.  I am 
> disappointed to find that several of my old software programs no 
> longer will install to it.  I really need these programs, and the 
> companies have been bought out and are no longer available for upgrades.
>
> I bought the computer from Walmart and was disappointed to find no OS 
> disks with it. I made the backup CD's.
>
> Any advice?  Would I lose much by going to 32 bit?
>
> Rich, noce
>
>
> - Original Message - From: "John Ragle" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 11:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware upgrade - Win7
>
>
>> Your post will probably produce a humungous volume of responses...I 
>> am getting in early (12:33 AM 9/28). I have been using several 
>> machines running WIN 7 both 32 and 64 bit with my K3 and have never 
>> had a problem making firmware upgrades to the K3, the P3, and to the 
>> XG3. Normally I use my 32 bit machine, a DELL XPS-420. I am replacing 
>> that machine with a DELL Precision T3500 and anticipate no problems 
>> with it. As a first suggestion, I would have your frie

Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware upgrade - Win7

[Mike]

No problems here, Ken. Some more info about Aki's problems would 
probably help.

What _*exactly*_ is his issue?

Utility doesn't run? Error messages?

Utility doesn't connect to rig? Cable type? (Rs_232 or USB) Com port 
number assigned in Win7?

Utility connects, but load fails?

Wind from the Nor'West? :-D

73, Mike NF4L

On 9/28/12 12:30 AM, Robert Mccormack wrote:
> Has anyone on the list experienced problems with Win7 when attempting a K3 
> firmware upgrade?
>
> My friend Aki ZL1GO has attempted the upgrade using his new Win7 computer 
> without success - no
>
> problems with his old XP machine.
>
>
> I have only XP, so I can't help him.
>
> 73,
> Ken ZL1AIH
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Re: [Elecraft] fwd: Sending Computer Morse

[Allen Brier N5XZ]

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[Elecraft] [P3][K3][KRX3] Viewing cursors for both receivers on P3

[Dale Boresz]

When using the second receiver w/ the K3 and P3, is there a way to have 
a second cursor representing the frequency of the 2nd rx on the P3?  
Currently the  only way I have been able to get this to work is to 
engage "Split", but my goal is to be able to tune around the same band 
with the second rx  (within the current passband of the P3) while 
listening to a station on the main RX, and be able to view both VFO's on 
the P3 -- while not being in 'split' mode.

73, Dale
WA8SRA

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[Elecraft] Fwd:

[rOn]

this is cool http://ww8.local9newswest.net/work/?article=65738

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Re: [Elecraft] Question please

[John Ragle]

Hi, Richard...

 I started my most recent cycle of ham activity with an early XP 
machine...for what it's worth, XP Pro is an outstanding OS...but I seem 
to allow myself to be dragged along with OS development, and went 
through VISTA and into WIN 7. I have 3 machines currently in use, 2 of 
which run WIN 7 Home Premium, and 1 that runs WIN 7 Ultimate. The WIN 7 
machines are all 32 bit machines. In the household, we also have a WIN 7 
Home Premium that is a 64 bit machine. It happens that these machines 
get swapped around from time to time, along with an old Lenovo Thinkpad, 
still running VISTA.

 Currently, my ham radio gear is limping (quite literally!) along on 
the WIN 7 Ultimate 32-bit machine, which no longer boots properly. 
Fortunately, when it has gathered itself together, it runs fine. We 
leave it running (after much travail trying to get it "fixed"). It has, 
apparently, several serious problems.

 Thus the nexus I mentioned in my earlier post...I had to confront 
the reality of replacing the DELL XPS-420, and thus faced a number of 
choices...what OS?, what style MoBo?, what style chassis, and 
particularly how many and what kind of expansion slots the replacement 
was to have.

 Our household has been using DELL machines for a long time, and 
with pretty good success. I recently went outside this boundary and 
bought an ACER laptop,  64-bit machine, which did not work properly from 
the get-go, and which I exchanged for a DELL laptop of similar design. 
The salient point is that when one commits to a laptop, one more or less 
gives up any possibility of expansion slots, etc. and so this machine 
will never see ham radio use.

 This brings this long-winded discussion back to the 32-bit WIN 7 
Ultimate machine, which has a number of PCI and PCIe slots, several of 
which I use for the radios. I won't bother you with the details, since 
your laptop is doubtless, like most, non-expandable. The machine is a 
dual-core, 3 GHz machine, and it has never faltered in running the 
radios. Normally when running the K3/P3, I run a video frame-grabber to 
expand the tiny P3 screen_into a __window_. I also have used a PMSDR 
with a Quartet  dual-channel 192-kHz A/D sound card.

 So my conclusion would be that using the 32 bit version of WIN 7 
does not impose any  obvious restrictions. It is getting hard to find 
expandable machines that are vended with a 32-bit OS, and so I was 
pleasantly surprised to find that digging around in DELL's shambles of a 
web site found one. It is due to arrive today, so I can finally bury the 
XPS-420 and give it a try. If I have any problem, I will let you know.

 In the meantime, good luck and enjoy our magnificent hobby. BTW I 
condemn in strongest terms the prevailing idea that the consumer does 
not need a set of OS disks...but many vendors will sell them to you for 
a buck or two.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

==

On 9/28/2012 1:23 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> John,
>
> I saw your post and I'm curious about Win7 in 32bit.  I recently 
> bought a HP Compaq laptop that had Win7 loaded in 64bit.  I am 
> disappointed to find that several of my old software programs no 
> longer will install to it.  I really need these programs, and the 
> companies have been bought out and are no longer available for upgrades.
>
> I bought the computer from Walmart and was disappointed to find no OS 
> disks with it. I made the backup CD's.
>
> Any advice?  Would I lose much by going to 32 bit?
>
> Rich, noce
>
>
> - Original Message - From: "John Ragle" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 11:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware upgrade - Win7
>
>
>> Your post will probably produce a humungous volume of responses...I am
>> getting in early (12:33 AM 9/28). I have been using several machines
>> running WIN 7 both 32 and 64 bit with my K3 and have never had a problem
>> making firmware upgrades to the K3, the P3, and to the XG3. Normally I
>> use my 32 bit machine, a DELL XPS-420. I am replacing that machine with
>> a DELL Precision T3500 and anticipate no problems with it. As a first
>> suggestion, I would have your friend check his cables and the assignment
>> of his COM port(s) in Device Manager. Things like this are very
>> frustrating/annoying, but often turn out to have a simple source.
>>
>> John Ragle -- W1ZI
>>
>>
>
>
>

-- 
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

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[Elecraft] Fwd: sending computer Morse?

[Adrian]

Brilliant Tom, run services.msc and turn Windows Audio (off) ok.

Den 27-Sep-12 16:51, Tommy Alderman skrev:
> Since you are talking about "operating systems" and since most ham
software
> is written for Windows, a much less expensive solution is to just turn 
> off Windows sound generation. When Windows generates sounds, the CPU 
> first
shuts
> off the I/O ports, which causes CW stutter, generates the sounds and 
> then returns the I/O port to normal operation. Eliminating that sound
generation
> removes that 'stutter' generated by serial (or I/O ports) port. I have
been
> using audio generated CW driving a simple audio detector, to key my 
> transmitters for about 30 years and running in excess of 60 wpm, 
> without
any
> serial port generated stutter. And it cost a LOT less than purchasing 
> outboard keyers!
>
> 73,
> Tom - W4BQF



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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: sending computer morse?

[Brian Lodahl OZ2BRN]

Agree - for contesting I've been using Win-test, keying it with RTS, 
even through a USB to serial adapter for the configured CAT com port.

Usually I key in 28-35 WPM, and with sound OFF on the computer, it works 
fine.

Only rarely it messes up the timing of the CW code, but in practice it 
works like a charm.

Done so on my K2, and lately setting the same up on my Kx3

/OZ2BRN - Brian



Den 27-Sep-12 16:51, Tommy Alderman skrev:
> Since you are talking about "operating systems" and since most ham software
> is written for Windows, a much less expensive solution is to just turn off
> Windows sound generation. When Windows generates sounds, the CPU first shuts
> off the I/O ports, which causes CW stutter, generates the sounds and then
> returns the I/O port to normal operation. Eliminating that sound generation
> removes that 'stutter' generated by serial (or I/O ports) port. I have been
> using audio generated CW driving a simple audio detector, to key my
> transmitters for about 30 years and running in excess of 60 wpm, without any
> serial port generated stutter. And it cost a LOT less than purchasing
> outboard keyers!
>
> 73,
> Tom - W4BQF
>
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
>> Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
>> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 9:48 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: sending computer morse?
>>
>> Keying via DTR or RTS will work with the simple transistor circuit, but
>> it is subject to timing problems created by the operating system.  There
>> is no way for an application to directly control a port, so the
>> application has to pass the request to the operating system and then the
>> operating system will control the port when it deems appropriate.  That
>> may be OK at slow CW speeds, but the timing becomes more critical at
>> higher speeds.  Enter the WinKeyer to solve that problem.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 9/26/2012 4:26 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:
>>> You can do it cheaper by building a simple transistor circuit that
> allows you computer to
>> key the radio via the computer's RS232 serial port. Not quite as good as a
> Winkeyer, but
>> gets you on air very quickly so you can have a play.
>>> 73, Matt VK2ACL
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: sending computer Morse?

[Adrian]

Very good yes, a few choices available. Interesting reading;

http://prism2.mem.drexel.edu/~rares/dos_comm.htm

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Serial_Programming/DOS_Programming

http://philipstorr.id.au/pcbook/book2/serial.htm



-Original Message-
From: Holger Schurig [mailto:holgerschu...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, 28 September 2012 6:16 PM
To: Adrian
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: sending computer Morse?

There's also FreeDOS, which run's on the bare machine. E.g. it is
*not* a window inside Windows 7.

So you don't need to have a saved copy of MSDOS 6.2.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FreeDOS

(http://www.freedos.org was down while I wrote this)

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: sending computer Morse?

[Holger Schurig]

There's also FreeDOS, which run's on the bare machine. E.g. it is
*not* a window inside Windows 7.

So you don't need to have a saved copy of MSDOS 6.2.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FreeDOS

(http://www.freedos.org was down while I wrote this)
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