Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Low Power Use Cases

[Ralf Wilhelm]

Hi Frank,

I would not expect the waterfalls for the JT modes to change because the JT 
modes transmit only one tone at a time. Apart from turning the tx on and off, 
the amplitude of the signal does not change. Therfore there is no source for 
IMD that could result in a broader signal or splatter. You could even use a 
class C amplifier like you could for a fm transmitter.

Greetings

Ralf, DL6OAP

Am 19.07.2013 um 00:55 schrieb Frank Precissi :

> I think the best solution would be to try it both ways and see what kind of
> signal report you get.  I'd be interested to see the two JT waterfalls
> compared side by side.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Frank KG6EYC
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
> 
>> I think it's a good question, but I cannot answer it.
>> 
>> Most amps produce more distortion the more power they run.
>> 
>> The question is whether the sum of distortion from both amps at lower power
>> is less than one amp running at higher power.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> 
>> 
>> On 7/18/2013 3:08 PM, Chris Johnson wrote:
>>> I love my KPA500.  I don't use it enough because of all the low power
>>> digital I do.   I was wondering if the quality of my signal would
>>> better if I let the KPA500 produce the output even if the wattage is
>>> 50 or less watts.   If I drive it with 1 to 5 watts, it produces 10
>>> to 50 watts.   I like the thought of offloading the thermal load of
>>> my long JT65 & JT9 duty cycles onto the KPA rather than my main rig
>>> which is a Flex 6700.
>> 
>> You're likely to stimulate more replies than the "Why is aeronautical VHF
>> comm still AM?" did. :-)
>> 
>> I don't know anything about a Flex  but, all amplifiers have
>> non-zero distortion figures.  Putting two "in series" will add up at least
>> some if not all of them.  The amp in your Flex followed by the
>> KPA500 will most likely produce a poorer signal quality than just your Flex
>> for the same power output.
>> 
>> Secondly, the KPA500 was designed to produce several hundred watts with a
>> few tens of watts drive [500W on any band for me takes between 25 and
>> 30 watts drive].  That's probably the optimum operating point.  Driving it
>> with 5 watts should produce somewhere in the 50+ watts output range.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Fred K6DGW
>> - Northern California Contest Club
>> - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
>> - www.cqp.org
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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> NAQCC #6554 | SKCC #10435 | FISTS #16155
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] set-up for PSK31

[Ariel Jacala]

I played with the ALC to just get the onset of ALC but no luck

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 19, 2013, at 1:11 AM, "Ariel Jacala"  wrote:

> I need help in understanding why no one can seem to hear me on PSK with my K2
> 
> I am using Signalink USB
> 
> RF is going out with PWR set to less than 25 watts
> Monitoring the TX - I can hear the modulation of the side band through a 
> headphone and it seems to sound normal
> 
> I have mode set to USB
> 
> I am calling CQ and answering CQ's but no one seems to hear me.
> 
> I have RTTY turned off
> 
> I receive signals OK
> 
> I have VOX set to PTT 
> 
> I have 2 bars on the ALC metering and I can't seem to get more than 2 bars - 
> meter starts from the right
> 
> I know I missed something in the basic setup but cant seem to know what it is
> 
> Ariel NY4G
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] [K2] set-up for PSK31

[Ariel Jacala]

I need help in understanding why no one can seem to hear me on PSK with my K2

I am using Signalink USB

RF is going out with PWR set to less than 25 watts
Monitoring the TX - I can hear the modulation of the side band through a 
headphone and it seems to sound normal

I have mode set to USB

I am calling CQ and answering CQ's but no one seems to hear me.

I have RTTY turned off

I receive signals OK

I have VOX set to PTT 

I have 2 bars on the ALC metering and I can't seem to get more than 2 bars - 
meter starts from the right

I know I missed something in the basic setup but cant seem to know what it is

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net results for 7/14/13

[Phil Shepard]

Very poor propagation did not stop us from having a big net last Sunday.  We 
made liberal use of relays and managed to check in 34 stations over a 33 minute 
period.  Thanks for everyone's cooperation.

Participants  from the 7/14/13 net follow:

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

N6JWJohnCA  K3  936
KM4IK   Ian GA  K3  281
KA7MAY  Calvin  UT  K2  7239
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
WA9EBX  Larry   KY  K3  4309
KF7JZH  Ron IN  KX3 2262
WO1IDickMA  K3  911
WV5IDwayne  TX  K3  5287
WA0UAY  RickIA  KX3 3885
W7NMD   Palmer  AR  K3  3779
AD5SX/m PaulNM  IC706
KJ7YU   RossUT  KX3 1090
KL7UW   Ed  AK  K3  4340
W4PFM   PaulVA  K3  1673
KJ6CBS  DaveCA  K3  4052
K7BRR   BillAZ  K3  5545
KF5IMA  Bruce   MS  K2  3575
W5ETJ   GaryTX  K3  3227
K6WDE   DaveCA  KX3 4599
K7GED   Geddes  ID  KX3 4218
VE7EAR  Al  BC  KX3 3158
K4TMCaryVA  K3  3448
W0FMTerry   MO  K3  474
KE5VDT  Roger   TX  K3  6054
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
KD5JCordAR  K3  7531
K2ACK   Allen   CA  K3  6584
K9QJS   HoopWA  K3  6884
KI6UM   Lou CA  K3  2773
W4ISH   BillKY  K3  1171
VE3XM   Bob ON  K3  409
KD4PS   DaveIL  KX3 3389
AB7CE   Roy MT  KX3 115
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,
Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer STILL needed!

[Matt VK2RQ]

If you want to see your transmitted signal on the waterfall, go into FLdigi 
config settings Waterfall->Display->Transmit signal and check the "Monitor 
transmitted signal" box.

The level settings you have are similar to what I use, but check the TX level 
as Don describes in another response to your post.

73, Matt VK2RQ

On 19/07/2013, at 12:15 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> The waterfall display normally stops during transmission.  That is not a 
> problem.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 7/18/2013 8:30 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
>> Hello again ELMERS,
>> 
>> (I appreciate all the help from the mail list, but I decided to standardize 
>> on Fldigi and my Macbook Pro … because this is what I am most comfortable 
>> with … I know there are other MAC HAM GURUS out there …)
>> 
>> I am trying to use Fldigi, a Macbook Pro, a Griffin iMic and my KX3 to talk 
>> PSK-31. With the help of you folks here, I have the receiving/decoding part 
>> of this process working. I am getting great decoding.
>> 
>> TRANSMITTING IS A FRUSTRATING DEAD-END.
>> 
>> My setup is cabled as follows:
>> ACC1 to the KX3SER Port connected. The KX3 Utility reports 
>> "usbserial-AD02DUIQ" at 4800 bps. Why I need this cable setup is beyond me, 
>> can someone explain the need?
>> 
>> My iMic is connected to the Macbook via USB port. The iMic switch is set to 
>> 'Mic". The headphones from the KX3 go to the "In" port and the KX3 Mic is 
>> connected to the "Out" port on the iMic.
>> 
>> The Macbook Input and Output levels for the iMic USB audio system are at 1/2 
>> level.
>> 
>> Playing with the ALC control, the Keyer/Mic is set to 3-4 level and the AF 
>> is set to 20. A nice waterfall appears and PKS-31 is decoded nicely.
>> 
>> Under Rig Control, I have experimented with both RigCat and hamlib settings, 
>> but I am TOTALLY lost here. I have downloaded the K3 RigCat xml file and 
>> Fldigi uses that file. In the RigCat and hamlib panels, the "Device" is the 
>> usbserial-AD02DUIQ mentioned above.
>> 
>> VOX is turned on and the TX light comes on at the beginning of a text 
>> transmission and off at the end.
>> 
>> PROBLEM:
>> The text appears in both the receiving and transmitting panels. The text 
>> shows up but the waterfall display stops, the text is sent and then the 
>> waterfall resumes. I get NO SIGNAL on the waterfall and therefore no 
>> TRANSMISSION.
>> 
>> This really shouldn't be that difficult. I am missing something major here … 
>> I will be happy to document my journey so that another Mac ham doesn't 
>> travel my "adventure"!
>> 
>> Lost in the bits,
>> HF Newbie Dave
>> K6WDE
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer STILL needed!

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

Do you have the transmit audio levels set correctly?  The ALC meter 
should illuminate 4 bars during transmission with the 5th bar 
flickering.  If that is not the case, increase the audio drive level 
(either soundcard settings or KX3 mic gain or both) until that condition 
is met.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 8:30 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hello again ELMERS,

(I appreciate all the help from the mail list, but I decided to standardize on 
Fldigi and my Macbook Pro … because this is what I am most comfortable with … I 
know there are other MAC HAM GURUS out there …)

I am trying to use Fldigi, a Macbook Pro, a Griffin iMic and my KX3 to talk 
PSK-31. With the help of you folks here, I have the receiving/decoding part of 
this process working. I am getting great decoding.

TRANSMITTING IS A FRUSTRATING DEAD-END.

My setup is cabled as follows:
ACC1 to the KX3SER Port connected. The KX3 Utility reports "usbserial-AD02DUIQ" 
at 4800 bps. Why I need this cable setup is beyond me, can someone explain the need?

My iMic is connected to the Macbook via USB port. The iMic switch is set to 'Mic". The headphones 
from the KX3 go to the "In" port and the KX3 Mic is connected to the "Out" port on 
the iMic.

The Macbook Input and Output levels for the iMic USB audio system are at 1/2 
level.

Playing with the ALC control, the Keyer/Mic is set to 3-4 level and the AF is 
set to 20. A nice waterfall appears and PKS-31 is decoded nicely.

Under Rig Control, I have experimented with both RigCat and hamlib settings, but I am 
TOTALLY lost here. I have downloaded the K3 RigCat xml file and Fldigi uses that file. In 
the RigCat and hamlib panels, the "Device" is the usbserial-AD02DUIQ mentioned 
above.

VOX is turned on and the TX light comes on at the beginning of a text 
transmission and off at the end.

PROBLEM:
The text appears in both the receiving and transmitting panels. The text shows 
up but the waterfall display stops, the text is sent and then the waterfall 
resumes. I get NO SIGNAL on the waterfall and therefore no TRANSMISSION.

This really shouldn't be that difficult. I am missing something major here … I will be 
happy to document my journey so that another Mac ham doesn't travel my 
"adventure"!

Lost in the bits,
HF Newbie Dave
K6WDE






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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer STILL needed!

[Don Wilhelm]

The waterfall display normally stops during transmission.  That is not a 
problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 8:30 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hello again ELMERS,

(I appreciate all the help from the mail list, but I decided to standardize on 
Fldigi and my Macbook Pro … because this is what I am most comfortable with … I 
know there are other MAC HAM GURUS out there …)

I am trying to use Fldigi, a Macbook Pro, a Griffin iMic and my KX3 to talk 
PSK-31. With the help of you folks here, I have the receiving/decoding part of 
this process working. I am getting great decoding.

TRANSMITTING IS A FRUSTRATING DEAD-END.

My setup is cabled as follows:
ACC1 to the KX3SER Port connected. The KX3 Utility reports "usbserial-AD02DUIQ" 
at 4800 bps. Why I need this cable setup is beyond me, can someone explain the need?

My iMic is connected to the Macbook via USB port. The iMic switch is set to 'Mic". The headphones 
from the KX3 go to the "In" port and the KX3 Mic is connected to the "Out" port on 
the iMic.

The Macbook Input and Output levels for the iMic USB audio system are at 1/2 
level.

Playing with the ALC control, the Keyer/Mic is set to 3-4 level and the AF is 
set to 20. A nice waterfall appears and PKS-31 is decoded nicely.

Under Rig Control, I have experimented with both RigCat and hamlib settings, but I am 
TOTALLY lost here. I have downloaded the K3 RigCat xml file and Fldigi uses that file. In 
the RigCat and hamlib panels, the "Device" is the usbserial-AD02DUIQ mentioned 
above.

VOX is turned on and the TX light comes on at the beginning of a text 
transmission and off at the end.

PROBLEM:
The text appears in both the receiving and transmitting panels. The text shows 
up but the waterfall display stops, the text is sent and then the waterfall 
resumes. I get NO SIGNAL on the waterfall and therefore no TRANSMISSION.

This really shouldn't be that difficult. I am missing something major here … I will be 
happy to document my journey so that another Mac ham doesn't travel my 
"adventure"!

Lost in the bits,
HF Newbie Dave
K6WDE






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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3} rig control with fldigi

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

The Fldigi waterfall display and the rig control/frequency display are 
two different animals.  The waterfall comes from the soundcard stuff and 
the rig control/frequency display comes from the computer to KX3 
communications over the RS-232 bus.  These are independent functions.


You will have t experiment with the RigCAT or HamLib settings to get 
things to work.  Make sure you tell the application which COM port is 
connected to the KX3.  The web help pages and user forums for RigCAT or 
HamLib may be of assistance.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 9:01 PM, Mike WA8BXN wrote:

For some reason I can't seem to get any control of the KX3 from the PC
running fldigi. Used the elecraft utitily to verify port number and baud
rate. Set those in fldigi for hamlib. Set other parameters there as
suggested by K4MTX blog. Pressed initialized button. No error indication.
Changing dial freq on KX3 not reflected on PC, changing freq in fldigi doesn
t change XK3. Pressing T/R button in fldigi does nothing. I am able to
decode received signals with fldigi fine. I must be missing something simple
  Any ideas?



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[Elecraft] [KX3} rig control with fldigi

[Mike WA8BXN]

For some reason I can't seem to get any control of the KX3 from the PC
running fldigi. Used the elecraft utitily to verify port number and baud
rate. Set those in fldigi for hamlib. Set other parameters there as
suggested by K4MTX blog. Pressed initialized button. No error indication.
Changing dial freq on KX3 not reflected on PC, changing freq in fldigi doesn
t change XK3. Pressing T/R button in fldigi does nothing. I am able to
decode received signals with fldigi fine. I must be missing something simple
 Any ideas?  



Thanks,

73 - Mike WA8BXN
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[Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer STILL needed!

[Esquer Dave]

Hello again ELMERS,

(I appreciate all the help from the mail list, but I decided to standardize on 
Fldigi and my Macbook Pro … because this is what I am most comfortable with … I 
know there are other MAC HAM GURUS out there …)

I am trying to use Fldigi, a Macbook Pro, a Griffin iMic and my KX3 to talk 
PSK-31. With the help of you folks here, I have the receiving/decoding part of 
this process working. I am getting great decoding.

TRANSMITTING IS A FRUSTRATING DEAD-END.

My setup is cabled as follows:
ACC1 to the KX3SER Port connected. The KX3 Utility reports "usbserial-AD02DUIQ" 
at 4800 bps. Why I need this cable setup is beyond me, can someone explain the 
need?

My iMic is connected to the Macbook via USB port. The iMic switch is set to 
'Mic". The headphones from the KX3 go to the "In" port and the KX3 Mic is 
connected to the "Out" port on the iMic.

The Macbook Input and Output levels for the iMic USB audio system are at 1/2 
level.

Playing with the ALC control, the Keyer/Mic is set to 3-4 level and the AF is 
set to 20. A nice waterfall appears and PKS-31 is decoded nicely.

Under Rig Control, I have experimented with both RigCat and hamlib settings, 
but I am TOTALLY lost here. I have downloaded the K3 RigCat xml file and Fldigi 
uses that file. In the RigCat and hamlib panels, the "Device" is the 
usbserial-AD02DUIQ mentioned above.

VOX is turned on and the TX light comes on at the beginning of a text 
transmission and off at the end. 

PROBLEM:
The text appears in both the receiving and transmitting panels. The text shows 
up but the waterfall display stops, the text is sent and then the waterfall 
resumes. I get NO SIGNAL on the waterfall and therefore no TRANSMISSION.

This really shouldn't be that difficult. I am missing something major here … I 
will be happy to document my journey so that another Mac ham doesn't travel my 
"adventure"!

Lost in the bits,
HF Newbie Dave
K6WDE






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[Elecraft] K3, P3 for sale

[Mike Reublin]

Posting this for a friend. Contact him directly.

73, Mike NF4L

FOR SALE by non-smoker;

SN 3896 K3/100
6K,2.8,1.0,400,250 8 pole filters
KRX3 with 2.7 
KAT3 
KDVR3 
KXV3
PR6
P3(SN 1294)

$4200 plus pay pal charges or USPS money order, I pay shipping CONUS.
 
k4...@comcast.net
 
Dick K4UTE
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Low Power Use Cases

[Frank Precissi]

I think the best solution would be to try it both ways and see what kind of
signal report you get.  I'd be interested to see the two JT waterfalls
compared side by side.

73,

Frank KG6EYC


On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> I think it's a good question, but I cannot answer it.
>
> Most amps produce more distortion the more power they run.
>
> The question is whether the sum of distortion from both amps at lower power
> is less than one amp running at higher power.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
>
>
> On 7/18/2013 3:08 PM, Chris Johnson wrote:
> > I love my KPA500.  I don't use it enough because of all the low power
> > digital I do.   I was wondering if the quality of my signal would
> > better if I let the KPA500 produce the output even if the wattage is
> > 50 or less watts.   If I drive it with 1 to 5 watts, it produces 10
> > to 50 watts.   I like the thought of offloading the thermal load of
> > my long JT65 & JT9 duty cycles onto the KPA rather than my main rig
> > which is a Flex 6700.
>
> You're likely to stimulate more replies than the "Why is aeronautical VHF
> comm still AM?" did. :-)
>
> I don't know anything about a Flex  but, all amplifiers have
> non-zero distortion figures.  Putting two "in series" will add up at least
> some if not all of them.  The amp in your Flex followed by the
> KPA500 will most likely produce a poorer signal quality than just your Flex
> for the same power output.
>
> Secondly, the KPA500 was designed to produce several hundred watts with a
> few tens of watts drive [500W on any band for me takes between 25 and
> 30 watts drive].  That's probably the optimum operating point.  Driving it
> with 5 watts should produce somewhere in the 50+ watts output range.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
> - www.cqp.org
>
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>



-- 
FHC #4224 | 30MDG #6370 | DMC #5698
NAQCC #6554 | SKCC #10435 | FISTS #16155
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[Elecraft] waterproof case for K2??

[Allan Taylor]

I have need to find a waterproof protective case for my K2 and accessories.
I just checked the Pelican site and decided it
best to inquire here regarding a suitable case. Bottom line:

Can anyone suggest a specific make and model to protect a K2 and,
hopefully, a few accessories for a whitewater raft
trip?  It won't be in direct water splash, etc., but dry boxes leak,
accidents happen. Accessories would be a paddle/key combo,
a MH2 mike, and a K5 keyer.

 I hit the river August 3 so there is some urgency to find and acquire a
suitable case.  BTW: the river is the Middle Fork of the
Salmon, Idaho.

-- 
73 AllanK7GT
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[Elecraft] scroll SVGA Received Info: Added Feature

[zumbruns]

Anyone else like to scroll the received data; ie. RTTY, PSK31, CW,  using the 
SVGA and an external monitor using the up and down button on the keyboard .  I 
sure would.  How about it Paul can you add that?  73, Steve W0SZ 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Low Power Use Cases

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I think it's a good question, but I cannot answer it. 

Most amps produce more distortion the more power they run.

The question is whether the sum of distortion from both amps at lower power
is less than one amp running at higher power.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


On 7/18/2013 3:08 PM, Chris Johnson wrote:
> I love my KPA500.  I don't use it enough because of all the low power
> digital I do.   I was wondering if the quality of my signal would
> better if I let the KPA500 produce the output even if the wattage is
> 50 or less watts.   If I drive it with 1 to 5 watts, it produces 10
> to 50 watts.   I like the thought of offloading the thermal load of
> my long JT65 & JT9 duty cycles onto the KPA rather than my main rig 
> which is a Flex 6700.

You're likely to stimulate more replies than the "Why is aeronautical VHF
comm still AM?" did. :-)

I don't know anything about a Flex  but, all amplifiers have
non-zero distortion figures.  Putting two "in series" will add up at least
some if not all of them.  The amp in your Flex followed by the
KPA500 will most likely produce a poorer signal quality than just your Flex
for the same power output.

Secondly, the KPA500 was designed to produce several hundred watts with a
few tens of watts drive [500W on any band for me takes between 25 and
30 watts drive].  That's probably the optimum operating point.  Driving it
with 5 watts should produce somewhere in the 50+ watts output range.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Low Power Use Cases

[mcduffie]

On Thu, 18 Jul 2013 15:08:14 -0700, Chris Johnson wrote:

> Does the KPA500 make a much cleaner signal than the built in barefoot amp 
> because
> its running at such a higher voltage?

No.  As the other person told you, the quality will not be made better by going
through another amplifier.  Every piece you go through adds to the decline in
quality, albeit probably only a very small amount.

> I'm not too concerned about power efficiency comparisons, because we know its 
> not
> more efficient doing it this way. :)

As you said, it is less efficient, as it is not operating within the designed
parameters.  Some amplifiers actually run hotter if you run less than the design
level.  I'm not saying the KPA does at all, just making a point that "some" amps
can actually run hotter when the power is turned down than they do when running
full output.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Low Power Use Cases

[Fred Jensen]

On 7/18/2013 3:08 PM, Chris Johnson wrote:

I love my KPA500.  I don't use it enough because of all the low power
digital I do.   I was wondering if the quality of my signal would
better if I let the KPA500 produce the output even if the wattage is
50 or less watts.   If I drive it with 1 to 5 watts, it produces 10
to 50 watts.   I like the thought of offloading the thermal load of
my long JT65 & JT9 duty cycles onto the KPA rather than my main rig
which is a Flex 6700.


You're likely to stimulate more replies than the "Why is aeronautical 
VHF comm still AM?" did. :-)


I don't know anything about a Flex  but, all amplifiers have 
non-zero distortion figures.  Putting two "in series" will add up at 
least some if not all of them.  The amp in your Flex followed by the 
KPA500 will most likely produce a poorer signal quality than just your 
Flex for the same power output.


Secondly, the KPA500 was designed to produce several hundred watts with 
a few tens of watts drive [500W on any band for me takes between 25 and 
30 watts drive].  That's probably the optimum operating point.  Driving 
it with 5 watts should produce somewhere in the 50+ watts output range.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

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[Elecraft] [KPA500] Low Power Use Cases

[Chris Johnson]

I love my KPA500.  I don't use it enough because of all the low power digital I 
do.   I was wondering if the quality of my signal would better if I let the 
KPA500 produce the output even if the wattage is 50 or less watts.   If I drive 
it with 1 to 5 watts, it produces 10 to 50 watts.   I like the thought of 
offloading the thermal load of my long JT65 & JT9 duty cycles onto the KPA 
rather than my main rig which is a Flex 6700.

Does the KPA500 make a much cleaner signal than the built in barefoot amp 
because its running at such a higher voltage?   I'm not too concerned about 
power efficiency comparisons, because we know its not more efficient doing it 
this way. :)

Thx

-Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Richard Neese]

http://k4mtx.wordpress.com/2013/04/11/kx3-fldigi-setup/

I followed this minus using the headphone jack
I use the i/q and the mic jack and the usb control cable
Again I suggest getting the cable set from elecraft!

I do psk31 all day with it. And yes you have you adjust the mic and 
speaker gain on the pc for best acl.
no need for a signal link or other such device. and its imho much 
cleaner setup.


if you need help drop a email and I will help you get going and you will 
see its the best setup I have done yet.


I also suggest a few extra pieces of software lp_bridge  and nap3.

also if you can get a usb sound card .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-External-7-1-Channel-3D-Virtual-Audio-Sound-Card-Adapter-PC-A-229-/400460458738?pt=US_Sound_Card_External&hash=item5d3d4daaf2

this is the external card I use.

just remember the cables go backwards  soundcard speaker to mic in radio 
and i/q out to mic in sound card.

color coding the ends with color tape make for a faster setup.



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Re: [Elecraft] Bright line in bar cursors

[WX2S]

Paul and Tom,

That would be great if it could be added as an option, but probably not 
necessary. As I noted before, it occurred because the P3's clock was not 
calibrated correctly with respect to the K3. Once I adjusted the clock, tuning 
the K3 to put the bright line on top of the received signal beat the signal to 
the sidetone frequency, within a few hertz.

An alternative to adding a software option would be a slight mod to the manual, 
advising operators to calibrate the P3 frequency and describing what the 
position of the bright line indicates in each of the receive modes (CW, SSB, 
RTTY, etc.)

I'd expect that this would be true regardless of where I set the sidetone in 
the K3.

73,
- Steve WX2S.






 From: Tommy Alderman [via Elecraft] 
To: WX2S  
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: Bright line in bar cursors
 


If you in fact do this, please make it operator selectable via the menus. I 
am not quite sure what the "correct sidetone pitch" is as for the past 60 
years I select the sidetone pitch to suit my own ears. 

Thanks and 73, 
Tom - W4BQF 



-Original Message- 
From: [hidden email] 
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Paul Saffren N6HZ 
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 12:13 PM 
To: [hidden email] 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bright line in bar cursors 

Hi Steve, 

I talked with Alan about this and it looks like it is something we could 
add, probably via a menu entry.   We'll put it on the to-do list. 

Paul 

Paul Saffren - N6HZ 
Project Manager 
Elecraft Inc. 
831-763-4211 x122 
www.elecraft.com 

On 7/14/2013 7:23 PM, WX2S [via Elecraft] wrote: 

> Hi, all, 
> 
> I would like to set up the bright line in the bar cursors in CW mode 
> so that it indicates not the VFO frequency, but the proper place to 
> tune for the correct sidetone pitch. Is there a way to do this? 
> 
> Thanks and 73, 
> - Steve WX2S. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -- If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the 
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[Elecraft] WTB: Old AEA / MFJ loop for sale cheap

[Niel Skousen]

Good Afternoon All,

I'm making a long shot,  I'm looking for an old AEA or MFJ Isoloop antenna 
cheap.   Just looking for a cheap one to become a foundation for some loop 
experiments.   IF you have one around that you'd just like to not to store 
anymore, please let me know.   I expect to pay shipping and handling too...
I'm in St. George UT, so If you're within a couple hundred miles, I could 
pickup too... 

Niel
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Bill Frantz]

I find when using a SignaLink with both my K3 (using line in/out 
on the K3) and the Small Wonder Labs PSK-20 I have to raise the 
gain on the computer sound to radio link to maximum gain on both 
the signaLink and the computer sound adjustments. I get 
reasonable settings for the gain control on the K3 and a clean 
signal from the PSK-20. I've been operating this way for a 
couple of years with no complaints about spattering all over the 
bands. It is nice because I can restore the settings easily when 
they get changed.


Cheers - Bill, AE6JV/OK

On 7/18/13 at 10:35 AM, n...@hotmail.com (Ariel Jacala) wrote:

You may have to adjust the sound card’s Line Out or 
Headphones Out to achieve the peak ALC reading of about 4 bars. 
Avoid going higher than about 50% so that Line Out or 
Headphones Out do not clip.

-
Bill Frantz| The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Barry LaZar]

Don,
I've  lucky so long that I've totally forgotten that point. It's 
really bad when you get old. :-)


73,
Barry
K3NDM

On 7/18/2013 11:31 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ariel,

Nothing wrong with that plan at all.  Bond the computer and the KX3 
together and power everything from the same AC outlet to minimize 
common mode noise problems.  If that is not possible, you may have to 
add isolation transformers in the audio lines.
See the information provided by Jim Brown K9YC on the bonding 
solution.  He has posted it many times here on the Elecraft reflector.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

Barry and Don
I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  
For the KX3, I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation 
resistors Don suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I 
realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make 
the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?

Ariel




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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Barry LaZar]

Basically, there is nothing wrong with your plan. As long as get 
everything adjusted, it should all work like a champ. I realize that 
your approach is $100 cheaper, but if it doesn't work without you 
needing a drink during the process, reconsider and do another Signalink. 
I'm facing a similar issue with interfacing with my collection of 
"stuff". I kinda feel I'll take the path of least grief even if it takes 
a few extra bucks. Best of luck.


73,
Barry
K3NDM


On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

Barry and Don

I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  For 
the KX3, I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation 
resistors Don suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I 
realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make 
the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?


Ariel

> Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 10:20:12 -0400
> From: k3...@comcast.net
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!
>
> Don/Dave,
>
> Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied
> with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to
> interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own
> sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This
> arrangement works fine here.
>
> Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen
> that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of 
failures
> that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound 
cards of

> transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not
> investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode
> software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the
> SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their
> transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have
> seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for
> the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your 
transmit

> levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means
> don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.
>
>
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
>
>
>
> On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.
> > If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that
> > application. It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a
> > Mac.
> >
> > The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels
> > involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC
> > or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
> >
> > Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack
> > (the green one). That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level
> > is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 
100

> > K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on
> > the KX3 side will do the job.
> >
> > On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the
> > audio to the computer. This will be fed to the computer Line In or
> > lacking that the Mic Input. Again an attenuator will be required. If
> > you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series
> > with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on
> > the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer
> > mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.
> >
> > If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, 
the

> > normal applications will only use the left channel which is the
> > connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.
> >
> > That should get you started. As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would
> > suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown
> > menu. Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
> >> Hi folks,
> >> HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried
> >> everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many
> >> permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!
> >>
> >> I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and
> >> am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff
> >> working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially 
KD0BIK's,

> >> but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.
> >>
> >> I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
> >>
> >> Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to
> >> interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic
> >> input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin 
iMic

> >> that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.
> >>
> >> I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital
> >> Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Ariel Jacala]

As Don has pointed out
"Note carefully -- for the KX3 (and K3) in data modes, the "ALC" meter is  also 
used as a level indication. Adjust the mic gain to produce 4 bars on the meter 
with the 5th bar flickering - that is the NO ALC point.The 5th bar indicates 
the onset of ALC."
>From Fred Cady's book Page 101
"Adjust KEYER/MIC to set the Mic gain for a peak ALC reading of about 4 bars. 
The ALC meter is actually acting like a VU (volume unit) meter. The onset of 
ALC is about the 5th bar so you should stay below that level. You may have to 
adjust the sound card’s Line Out or Headphones Out to achieve the peak ALC 
reading of about 4 bars. Avoid going higher than about 50% so that Line Out or 
Headphones Out do not clip. You would like to have the Mic Gain setting about 
the same as that used for SSB transmissions." I think this is where Don's 
suggestion helps is in adjusting the levels for increased sensitivity.
Ariel NY4G

> Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 09:48:06 -0700
> From: kk7p4...@gmail.com
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!
> 
> Please read the data operation section of the KX3 manual.  You need to 
> set the Tx audio level so you have 4 bars of ALC, and preferably 
> flickering the 5th bar.
> 
> This is not a misprint.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Lyle KK7P
> 
> > ... I realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make 
> > the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Richard Neese]

you dont need a signal link with the kx3. the all you need is the cables 
from elecraft and the usb control cable. and a app like fldigi.


the usb cable does all the ptt and freq control via hamlib. the signal 
like is just a middle man that is not needed.



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Re: [Elecraft] Bright line in bar cursors

[Tommy]

If you in fact do this, please make it operator selectable via the menus. I
am not quite sure what the "correct sidetone pitch" is as for the past 60
years I select the sidetone pitch to suit my own ears.

Thanks and 73,
Tom - W4BQF



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Saffren N6HZ
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 12:13 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bright line in bar cursors

Hi Steve,

I talked with Alan about this and it looks like it is something we could 
add, probably via a menu entry.   We'll put it on the to-do list.

Paul

Paul Saffren - N6HZ
Project Manager
Elecraft Inc.
831-763-4211 x122
www.elecraft.com

On 7/14/2013 7:23 PM, WX2S [via Elecraft] wrote:
> Hi, all,
>
> I would like to set up the bright line in the bar cursors in CW mode 
> so that it indicates not the VFO frequency, but the proper place to 
> tune for the correct sidetone pitch. Is there a way to do this?
>
> Thanks and 73,
> - Steve WX2S.
>
>
> --
> -- If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the 
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> 736.html
>
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] Relay boards for remote control?

[Andrew Faber]

Another source is http://www.j-works.com/index.php. They have a broad 
product line. I've used one of their devices (USB to 4 SPST relays) for 
years with my logging program CQPWIN, instead of using serial or parallel 
port outputs for various rig control functions (e.g., PTT, Radio switching, 
etc.).  Never had a problem.

73, Andy, AE6Y

-Original Message- 
From: Hop - AC8NS

Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 10:54 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Relay boards for remote control?

There are others. I use a SERDO8R purchased from EasyDAQ.com. It has an
RS232 interface and eight DPDT relays on a PC104 stackable profile. Current
price is $81, which I think is a bit much, but it is a well-constructed
board and is supported by National Instruments LabVIEW drivers (which I why
I have it). For $97 you can order it with eight programmable digital inputs
or outputs that operate in parallel with the eight relays.

I think Denkovi has a broader range of products with more interfaces and
lower prices. If I needed another relay interface I would buy the Denkovi
USB Eight Channel Relay Board ForAutomation, currently selling for $41, but
I have no experience with them.

73 de AC8NS
Hop

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom" 

To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 4:06 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Relay boards for remote control?



Hi
Can anyone tell me what would be the most popular rs232 (or USB) relay 
board for use in computer control of a k3 setup? I use the canakit 4 relay 
USB board. Are there others?

Thanks



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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Lyle Johnson]

Please read the data operation section of the KX3 manual.  You need to 
set the Tx audio level so you have 4 bars of ALC, and preferably 
flickering the 5th bar.


This is not a misprint.

73,

Lyle KK7P


... I realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the 
TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?


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Re: [Elecraft] Bright line in bar cursors

[Paul Saffren N6HZ]

Hi Steve,

I talked with Alan about this and it looks like it is something we could 
add, probably via a menu entry.   We'll put it on the to-do list.

Paul

Paul Saffren - N6HZ
Project Manager
Elecraft Inc.
831-763-4211 x122
www.elecraft.com

On 7/14/2013 7:23 PM, WX2S [via Elecraft] wrote:
> Hi, all,
>
> I would like to set up the bright line in the bar cursors in CW mode 
> so that it indicates not the VFO frequency, but the proper place to 
> tune for the correct sidetone pitch. Is there a way to do this?
>
> Thanks and 73,
> - Steve WX2S.
>
>
> 
> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the 
> discussion below:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Bright-line-in-bar-cursors-tp7576736.html
>  
>
> To unsubscribe from [P3], click here 
> .
> NAML 
> 
>  
>





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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Don Wilhelm]

Ariel,

Nothing wrong with that plan at all.  Bond the computer and the KX3 
together and power everything from the same AC outlet to minimize common 
mode noise problems.  If that is not possible, you may have to add 
isolation transformers in the audio lines.
See the information provided by Jim Brown K9YC on the bonding solution.  
He has posted it many times here on the Elecraft reflector.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

Barry and Don
I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  For the KX3, 
I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation resistors Don 
suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I realize that I will still 
have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is 
there a flaw in this plan?
Ariel




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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Ariel Jacala]

Barry and Don
I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  For the KX3, 
I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation resistors Don 
suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I realize that I will still 
have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is 
there a flaw in this plan?
Ariel 

> Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 10:20:12 -0400
> From: k3...@comcast.net
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!
> 
> Don/Dave,
> 
>  Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied 
> with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to 
> interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own 
> sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This 
> arrangement works fine here.
> 
>  Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen 
> that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of failures 
> that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound cards of 
> transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not 
> investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode  
> software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the 
> SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their 
> transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have 
> seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for 
> the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your transmit 
> levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means 
> don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.
> 
> 
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  
> > If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that 
> > application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a 
> > Mac.
> >
> > The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels 
> > involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC 
> > or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
> >
> > Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack 
> > (the green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level 
> > is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 
> > K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on 
> > the KX3 side will do the job.
> >
> > On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the 
> > audio to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or 
> > lacking that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If 
> > you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series 
> > with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on 
> > the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer 
> > mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.
> >
> > If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
> > normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
> > connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.
> >
> > That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
> > suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
> > menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
> >> Hi folks,
> >> HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
> >> everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many 
> >> permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!
> >>
> >> I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and 
> >> am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff 
> >> working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, 
> >> but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.
> >>
> >> I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
> >>
> >> Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to 
> >> interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic 
> >> input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic 
> >> that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.
> >>
> >> I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital 
> >> Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
> >>
> >> Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 
> >> sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, 
> >> which hookup do I use?
> >>
> >> My assumptions so far:
> >> Low power, 5 watts or less
> >> I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
> >> I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other 
> >> external sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/wh

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Don Wilhelm]

Good points Barry, especially about ALC - in data mode, the KX3 will 
disable compression and equalization.  Use DATA A Mode (or AFSK for 
RTTY) with soundcard data.  Trying to use SSB mode on the KX3 requires 
more attention to compression and equalization.


Note carefully -- for the KX3 (and K3) in data modes, the "ALC" meter is 
also used as a level indication.  Adjust the mic gain to produce 4 bars 
on the meter with the 5th bar flickering - that is the NO ALC point.

The 5th bar indicates the onset of ALC.

Control the power with the power knob.  If you attempt to control the 
power with the audio level, you will find that the KX3 (and the K2 and 
K3) will 'power hunt' and the output will not be stable. This is due to 
the way Elecraft rigs control power output, it is controlled in a closed 
control loop.


Note that this is different from the advice generally given for data 
mode operation on the web.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 10:20 AM, Barry LaZar wrote:

Don/Dave,

Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied 
with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to 
interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its 
own sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This 
arrangement works fine here.


Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have 
seen that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of 
failures that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer 
sound cards of transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I 
have not investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some 
digital mode  software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple 
and the SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key 
their transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure 
I have seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too 
high for the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep 
your transmit levels well within the linear region of your 
transmitter. That means don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO 
compression.



73,
Barry
K3NDM



On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices 
available.  If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start 
with that application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same 
on a PC or a Mac.


The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels 
involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC 
or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.


Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack 
(the green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the 
level is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. 
Usually a 100 K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k 
resistor on the KX3 side will do the job.


On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the 
audio to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or 
lacking that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If 
you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series 
with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on 
the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer 
mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.


If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, 
the normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.


That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hi folks,
HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many 
permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!


I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and 
am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff 
working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially 
KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.


I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.

Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to 
interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic 
input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin 
iMic that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.


I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital 
Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.


Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 
sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to 
me, which hookup do I use?


My assumptions so far:
Low power, 5 watts or less
I need to put the KX3 into 

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Barry LaZar]

Don/Dave,

Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied 
with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to 
interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own 
sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This 
arrangement works fine here.


Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen 
that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of failures 
that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound cards of 
transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not 
investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode  
software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the 
SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their 
transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have 
seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for 
the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your transmit 
levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means 
don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.



73,
Barry
K3NDM



On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  
If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that 
application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a 
Mac.


The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels 
involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC 
or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.


Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack 
(the green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level 
is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 
K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on 
the KX3 side will do the job.


On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the 
audio to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or 
lacking that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If 
you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series 
with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on 
the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer 
mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.


If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.


That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hi folks,
HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many 
permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!


I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and 
am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff 
working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, 
but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.


I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.

Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to 
interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic 
input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic 
that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.


I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital 
Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.


Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 
sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, 
which hookup do I use?


My assumptions so far:
Low power, 5 watts or less
I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other 
external sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I 
use the iMic?)

I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF

I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to 
help me understand all of its nuances.


Arghhh … please help a newbie!
73,
Dave, K6WDE
dave.esq...@gmail.com






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Re: [Elecraft] ] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Ariel Jacala]

Based on Don's suggestion - it would be easy to make up a dongle that one can 
use when working with the KX3 in data or phone modes.  Since the mic input has 
both audio (left-right channels) and PTT, one can put the resistors Don 
suggests in a small project box with the female ends (one for normal phone) and 
the other for digi modes.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 17, 2013, at 9:08 PM, "K7JLTextra"  wrote:

> When I first tried the digital modes with my KX3 I had mixed results. When 
> the laptop was plugged in it would not work with any setting on the computer 
> I KX3. Once I added isolation & attenuation between it was a snap to adjust 
> and get working. It is best to start with the receiving portion using 
> something like multiPSK to decode multiple signals. After getting one 
> direction going adjust the transmit per Elecraft's directions. 
> 
> John Hendricks K7JLT
> 
> On Jul 17, 2013, at 17:32, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
>> Dave,
>> 
>> It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  If 
>> you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that application.  
>> It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a Mac.
>> 
>> The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels involved. 
>> That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC or Mac that you 
>> are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
>> 
>> Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack (the 
>> green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level is about 
>> 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 K resistor in 
>> series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on the KX3 side will do 
>> the job.
>> 
>> On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the audio to 
>> the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or lacking that the 
>> Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If you are using the 
>> computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series with the KX33 headphone 
>> output and a 10k resistor across the line on the computer side will do 
>> nicely, but if you are using the computer mic input, the series resistor 
>> should be increased to 10k.
>> 
>> If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
>> normal applications will only use the left channel which is the connection 
>> to the tip of the soundcard jack.
>> 
>> That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would suggest 
>> using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown menu.  Use PTT 
>> thru RigCAT and it should work.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
>>> Hi folks,
>>> HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
>>> everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many permutations 
>>> that all of my hair has fallen out!
>>> 
>>> I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and am 
>>> missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff working. I've 
>>> played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck 
>>> in the basic hardware and software setup.
>>> 
>>> I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
>>> 
>>> Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to interface 
>>> the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic input, headphone 
>>> output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic that I've attempted to 
>>> throw into the mix, again with no joy.
>>> 
>>> I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital Modes 
>>> of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
>>> 
>>> Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 sections 
>>> 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, which hookup 
>>> do I use?
>>> 
>>> My assumptions so far:
>>> Low power, 5 watts or less
>>> I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
>>> I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other external 
>>> sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I use the iMic?)
>>> I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF
>>> 
>>> I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
>>> Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to help me 
>>> understand all of its nuances.
>>> 
>>> Arghhh … please help a newbie!
>>> 73,
>>> Dave, K6WDE
>>> dave.esq...@gmail.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

[Ariel Jacala]

Don,

I wonder if you can sketch out a circuit diagram on your website for newbies to 
follow.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 17, 2013, at 8:32 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
> It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  If you 
> want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that application.  It is 
> multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a Mac.
> 
> The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels involved. That 
> does require you to have some familiarity with the PC or Mac that you are 
> using and its soundcard input/output levels.
> 
> Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack (the 
> green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level is about 
> 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 K resistor in 
> series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on the KX3 side will do 
> the job.
> 
> On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the audio to 
> the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or lacking that the 
> Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If you are using the 
> computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series with the KX33 headphone 
> output and a 10k resistor across the line on the computer side will do 
> nicely, but if you are using the computer mic input, the series resistor 
> should be increased to 10k.
> 
> If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the normal 
> applications will only use the left channel which is the connection to the 
> tip of the soundcard jack.
> 
> That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would suggest 
> using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown menu.  Use PTT 
> thru RigCAT and it should work.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
>> Hi folks,
>> HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
>> everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many permutations 
>> that all of my hair has fallen out!
>> 
>> I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and am 
>> missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff working. I've 
>> played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck 
>> in the basic hardware and software setup.
>> 
>> I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
>> 
>> Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to interface the 
>> KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic input, headphone output 
>> from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic that I've attempted to throw 
>> into the mix, again with no joy.
>> 
>> I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital Modes 
>> of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
>> 
>> Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 sections 7.4 
>> (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, which hookup do I 
>> use?
>> 
>> My assumptions so far:
>> Low power, 5 watts or less
>> I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
>> I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other external 
>> sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I use the iMic?)
>> I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF
>> 
>> I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
>> Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to help me 
>> understand all of its nuances.
>> 
>> Arghhh … please help a newbie!
>> 73,
>> Dave, K6WDE
>> dave.esq...@gmail.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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