Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K2EXREF installation question
Jim - Figure 9 shows a space between P3 and J4 and my K3EXREF installation looks exactly like that. They do not fully mate. Without opening my K3 to check, I do not recall the 1/4-inch spacer being loose. 73 de David G4DMP In a recent message, Jim Spears writes Should the K3EXREF pins insert fully into the K3REF socket? And should the standoff fit loosely between the boards? -- + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds. | | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Hi everyone! Finally assembled the KAT500 last night. I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to K3/P3. Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit. Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier. And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-( I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-) I'm a geek, i guess... __ Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS w2...@arrl.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Why is KX3 phase noise so much less than the K3 ?
On 02/04/2014 16:19, Wayne Burdick wrote: The K3 and KX3 both have very low phase noise. It can vary a bit from band to band and from one unit to the next. Sherwood measured one example of each, but typically both measure right around -140 dBc/Hz at 20 kHz. When we designed the K3, we were trying to improve on the phase noise numbers usually found in transceivers with synthesized local oscillators. Typical values were -110 to -120 dBc/Hz, and this definitely impacted stations within close proximity of each other. By using a very high C/L ratio in the K3's VCO, we achieved numbers in the -140 range, and our field testers in close proximity could no longer hear each other at all. This result was corroborated by the Ducie Island DXpedition, the first to use K3s. They told us that they had a 30-m CW station and a 30-m RTTY station both running at the same time within 1 kHz of each other. The KX3 uses a different type of synthesizer, but the result is the same. In this case an on-chip VCO runs at a very high frequency and is then divided down to get to the HF range. 73, Wayne N6KR Wayne My understanding is that the KX3 is worse than the K3 on TX phase noise sidebands. Is that what you would expect? This can be quite critical when choosing between the K(X)3s as a transverter driver in a dense VHF/UHF environment (5 to 10Km separation at 400W to high gain beams) such as you find in the SE of UK. Stewart/G3YSX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Oh, and one question: what do people do with all these power cables? So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using that for the P3. Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2. W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by the P3). So i'm guessing i'd have to make up a new one and use power poles? Looks like KPA500 doesn't have a power socket on the back like the K3, so i can't run anything off of it, right? Do you guys just use whatever means of power distribution are available to you (like a power strip of some sort) and hook all these things up to that? __ Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS w2...@arrl.net On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:29 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: > Hi everyone! > Finally assembled the KAT500 last night. > I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed > to K3/P3. > Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up > using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit. > Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier. > And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-( > I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me > assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but > putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-) > I'm a geek, i guess... > __ > Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS > w2...@arrl.net > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Hi Sal, The KPA500 is a pretty easy kit but you have to take time to carefully inventory the screws. Here's a tip. Look at figure 40 on page 28 of the assembly manual. I suspect it would be easier to bend the gray wire prior to mounting the connector in the chassis. Access is tight in its final position. I'm surprised they haven't put a notch in the sheet metal to eliminate the need for this alteration. 73, Mike K2MK W2RMS wrote > Hi everyone! > Finally assembled the KAT500 last night. > I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as > opposed to K3/P3. > Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up > using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit. > Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier. > And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-( > I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me > assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, > but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-) > I'm a geek, i guess... > __ > Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-assembly-photo-log-tp7589986p7589993.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
Hi Eric, Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing! -- Thanks and 73's, For equipment, and software setups and reviews see: www.nk7z.net for MixW support see; http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info for Dopplergram information see: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info for MM-SSTV see: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote: > I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I > sure enjoyed the build. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ > > Eric > wb7sde > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to d...@nk7z.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Expecting a delivery ... but didn't happen
Folks, I have a problem. I volunteered to build a K1 for a gentleman who’s hands are just too trembly to do it himself. I’ve been tracking the order from CA to my home QTH. It was supposed to arrive last night. UPS generally doesn’t visit me until late in the evening, certainly after 6PM most of the time, and sometimes as late as 8PM+. So, I wasn’t too concerned until 9PM rolled around. I then checked the email tracking at UPS … Well, well, well, guess what? UPS says the package was delivered to my front door at 5:26PM. The problem is that my wife and I were sitting at the supper table at that time. We didn’t hear a UPS truck in the neighborhood all evening. So, now I’ve got a problem … UPS says the package is delivered. Elecraft has done everything right. I don’t have a radio for this gentleman. I’m going to go to a UPS store later in the morning and ask them to check the GPS data on that truck at the time of delivery. Is there anything else that I can do? Thanks in advance. 72, gene WG7GW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 gobox
Saw this on http://www.amateurradio.com/ http://www.oe2atn.at/tom/gobox/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 gobox
How about heat dissipation if the intent is to operate the radio in the box and encased in foam? 73 Ken - K0PP On Jun 6, 2014 5:50 AM, "Jeff Herr" wrote: > > Saw this on http://www.amateurradio.com/ > > > http://www.oe2atn.at/tom/gobox/ > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to elecraftcov...@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Why is KX3 phase noise so much less than the K3 ?
On Jun 6, 2014, at 4:33 AM, Stewart Bryant wrote: > My understanding is that the KX3 is worse than the K3 on TX > phase noise sidebands. Is that what you would expect? No. Both have very, very low transmitted phase noise. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
I power my P3 and PR6-10 from the RCA jack on the P3, using an RCA splitter. If the K3 can supply enough current for your needs, add one more splitter and run all three from there. 73, Mike NF4L On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: > Oh, and one question: > what do people do with all these power cables? > So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using that for > the P3. > Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2. > W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by the > P3). > So i'm guessing i'd have to make up a new one and use power poles? > Looks like KPA500 doesn't have a power socket on the back like the K3, so i > can't run anything off of it, right? > Do you guys just use whatever means of power distribution are available to > you (like a power strip of some sort) and hook all these things up to that? > __ > Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS > w2...@arrl.net > > On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:29 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: > >> Hi everyone! >> Finally assembled the KAT500 last night. >> I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed >> to K3/P3. >> Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up >> using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit. >> Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier. >> And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-( >> I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me >> assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, >> but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-) >> I'm a geek, i guess... >> __ >> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS >> w2...@arrl.net >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to n...@nf4l.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening. I was on the air on Sunday. As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades installed. The basic turn on was done on Saturday. I probably spent about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw something up. Eric wb7sde On Fri, Jun 6, 2014, at 05:05 AM, David Cole wrote: > Hi Eric, > Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing! > -- > Thanks and 73's, > For equipment, and software setups and reviews see: > www.nk7z.net > for MixW support see; > http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info > for Dopplergram information see: > http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info > for MM-SSTV see: > http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info > > > On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote: > > I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I > > sure enjoyed the build. > > > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ > > > > Eric > > wb7sde > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to d...@nk7z.net > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to e...@evross.com -- Eric Ross __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Expecting a delivery ... but didn't happen
I'd also notify Elecraft. They may have more leverage with UPS than you do. UPS will probably put you on a list of customers who have to sign for everything. If so you can sign up for a MyUPS account and override it. 73, Mike NF4L On Jun 6, 2014, at 8:34 AM, Eugene Worth wrote: > Folks, I have a problem. I volunteered to build a K1 for a gentleman who’s > hands are just too trembly to do it himself. I’ve been tracking the order > from CA to my home QTH. It was supposed to arrive last night. > > UPS generally doesn’t visit me until late in the evening, certainly after 6PM > most of the time, and sometimes as late as 8PM+. So, I wasn’t too concerned > until 9PM rolled around. I then checked the email tracking at UPS … Well, > well, well, guess what? UPS says the package was delivered to my front door > at 5:26PM. The problem is that my wife and I were sitting at the supper table > at that time. We didn’t hear a UPS truck in the neighborhood all evening. > > So, now I’ve got a problem … UPS says the package is delivered. Elecraft has > done everything right. I don’t have a radio for this gentleman. > > I’m going to go to a UPS store later in the morning and ask them to check the > GPS data on that truck at the time of delivery. Is there anything else that I > can do? > > Thanks in advance. > > 72, > gene > WG7GW > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to n...@nf4l.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?
On my K2 Is it ok to put a 1 - 10 nF bypass cap across my straight key? I've got a 6M KW amp and evidently rf was getting into the key line at power levels over ~350 W and keeping the system keyed all the time. Three turns on the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead fixed it, but I'm getting on air comments about key clicks. I'm going to switch to RG174 on the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the key terminals, if its not harmful to the K2. 73, Lenny W2BVH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
From: Howard K2HK Date: June 6, 2014 at 1:30:27 PM Subject:( K3)Can't interface Dx4win to K3 No response from Dx4win reflector so trying K3 reflector again. K3 does not change frequency when using Dx4win 8.05. Simply times out when a spot is selected. It had been working w/o problem. My setup: Win7 computer, native serial port (com1) , P3, Pigknob, Winkeyer. I am using LP bridge for virtual serial ports. All programs respond as normal, i.e.,keying, kkey macro program, K3 utility. However, when selecting a spot on DX spots screen I receive the radio time out, interface disabled. So far as I can tell the DX spot screen updates and all other features function normally. I have tried the cable directly to K3 and with another K3 with similar results. I have also changed serial ports. 73, Howard ..K2HK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?
On 6/6/2014 9:09 AM, w2bvh wrote: Three turns on the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead fixed it, but I'm getting on air comments about key clicks. I'm going to switch to RG174 on the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the key terminals, if its not harmful to the K2. NEVER use any form of parallel wire cable anywhere around RF -- it is notorious for RF pickup. Always use twisted pair, or coax with a decent copper braid shield. CAT5 is four twisted pairs, each of which has good bandwidth and excellent RFI resistance. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?
Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF out of the shack first? That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and may help with your click issue. What happens with lower power? It there is no click and the key operates normally, that's a HUGE hint you need better RFI work. Rick, WA6NHC iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-) > On Jun 6, 2014, at 9:09 AM, w2bvh wrote: > > On my K2 Is it ok to put a 1 - 10 nF bypass cap across my straight key? > > I've got a 6M KW amp and evidently rf was getting into the key line at power > levels over ~350 W and keeping the system keyed all the time. Three turns on > the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead fixed it, but I'm > getting on air comments about key clicks. I'm going to switch to RG174 on > the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the key terminals, if its not > harmful to the K2. > > > 73, > Lenny W2BVH > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to happymooseph...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Fwd: K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?
Apparently I can't type this morning without more coffee... sorry for the repeat, I didn't catch the typos... Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF coming back into the shack first? That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and may help with your click issue. What happens with lower power? If there is no click and the key operates normally, that's a HUGE hint you need better RFI work. I'd start with copious applications of ferrites (or even coax coils) as a common mode choke although if it's like some shacks I've seen, improved housekeeping would be the first step on bands like 6M where stray capacitance makes a huge difference in functionality. Rick, WA6NHC iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-) Begin forwarded message: > From: "Rick Bates, WA6NHC" > Date: June 6, 2014 at 9:19:06 AM PDT > To: Elecraft Reflector > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key? > > Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF out of the > shack first? That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and may > help with your click issue. > > What happens with lower power? It there is no click and the key operates > normally, that's a HUGE hint you need better RFI work. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Go Box
Hi Ken, list, I've done some pretty serious thermal studies of the KX3 (http://proaudioeng.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/PAE-Kx31-chart1.jpg). I looked that the "Go Box" concept a while ago and agree; The problem with the idea is that the KX3 uses the case back for all it's PA heatsinking. In the KX3 case design the front-half of the clamshell case is almost completely thermally disconnected from the case back (only the thumbscrew area is in contact), and cannot remove PA heat by conduction. In the Go Box concept the front panel is the only thing exposed to ambient air flow. If the back part of the case was to be sealed in a closed cavity or encased in foam, heat build-up would be inevitable. The Go Box idea may not kill the KX3's performance (drift, thermal limitations) if the KX3 is only used as a receiver or very low duty-cycle operation. Of course, one could put a fan in the box, but here we go again, killing the KX3's most hard-won and fantastic attributes: low power consumptio n, no moving parts and no acoustic noise. Howie - WA4PSC How about heat dissipation if the intent is to operate the radio in the box and encased in foam? Ken - K0PP On Jun 6, 2014 5:50 AM, "Jeff Herr" wrote: >>Saw this onhttp://www.amateurradio.com/ >>http://www.oe2atn.at/tom/gobox/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12
I suspect very strongly that UPS delivered your package to the wrong address. This has happened to me at least 3 times in the past 5 years with our local UPS. I would notify UPS and Elecraft. The last misdelivery by UPS to me was just a few months ago. I sent my KX-3 back to Elecraft for diagnosis and repair. On return to me UPS managed to lose it in their warehouse in Illinois. It took a month to find it. Remember, you or your client paid Elecraft for the K-1, not UPS. It is up to Elecraft to get it delivered to you. As I found when my KX-3 went missing Elecraft deals with UPS problems all the time. Elecraft was very responsive to my situation. They will initiate a missed delivery inquiry with UPS. Good luck. Jim WI9WI Message: 2 Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 06:34:06 -0600 From: Eugene Worth To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Expecting a delivery ... but didn't happen Message-ID: <0b0e077d-58cf-4898-8611-1e99187f8...@spamcop.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Folks, I have a problem. I volunteered to build a K1 for a gentleman who?s hands are just too trembly to do it himself. I?ve been tracking the order from CA to my home QTH. It was supposed to arrive last night. UPS generally doesn?t visit me until late in the evening, certainly after 6PM most of the time, and sometimes as late as 8PM+. So, I wasn?t too concerned until 9PM rolled around. I then checked the email tracking at UPS ? Well, well, well, guess what? UPS says the package was delivered to my front door at 5:26PM. The problem is that my wife and I were sitting at the supper table at that time. We didn?t hear a UPS truck in the neighborhood all evening. So, now I?ve got a problem ? UPS says the package is delivered. Elecraft has done everything right. I don?t have a radio for this gentleman. I?m going to go to a UPS store later in the morning and ask them to check the GPS data on that truck at the time of delivery. Is there anything else that I can do? Thanks in advance. 72, gene WG7GW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3, K3/0, KX3 remote control
> I wonder if there is a way to use KX3 to remote control K3 just as you can > remote control K3 with another K3 or K3/0. > Hiroki AH6CY > > > Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12
I remember reading somewhere that there is a mod for the K3 that boosts the current capability of the RCA power port, and that without it running anything more than the P3 or the PR6-10, but not both, would be dicey. Might want to check if the K3 in question has the mod. Ted, KN1CBR > >73, Mike NF4L > >On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: > >> Oh, and one question: >> what do people do with all these power cables? >> So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using >>that for the P3. >> Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2. >> W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by >>the P3). >> So i'm guessing i'd have to make up a new one and use power poles? >> Looks like KPA500 doesn't have a power socket on the back like the K3, >>so i can't run anything off of it, right? >> Do you guys just use whatever means of power distribution are available >>to you (like a power strip of some sort) and hook all these things up to >>that? >> __ >> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS >> w2...@arrl.net >> >> On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:29 AM, Slava Baytalskiy >>wrote: >> >>> Hi everyone! >>> Finally assembled the KAT500 last night. >>> I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as >>>opposed to K3/P3. >>> Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually >>>ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just >>>wouldn't fit. >>> Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier. >>> And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-( >>> I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me >>>assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them >>>too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-) >>> I'm a geek, i guess... >>> __ >>> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS >>> w2...@arrl.net >>> >> >> __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12
http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#K3%20Parts, then look about 20% down from the top of the page. 73, matt W6NIA On Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:04:11 +, you wrote: >I remember reading somewhere that there is a mod for the K3 that boosts >the current capability of the RCA power port, and that without it running >anything more than the P3 or the PR6-10, but not both, would be dicey. >Might want to check if the K3 in question has the mod. > >Ted, KN1CBR > > > >> >>73, Mike NF4L >> >>On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: >> >>> Oh, and one question: >>> what do people do with all these power cables? >>> So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using >>>that for the P3. >>> Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2. >>> W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by >>>the P3). >>> So i'm guessing i'd have to make up a new one and use power poles? >>> Looks like KPA500 doesn't have a power socket on the back like the K3, >>>so i can't run anything off of it, right? >>> Do you guys just use whatever means of power distribution are available >>>to you (like a power strip of some sort) and hook all these things up to >>>that? >>> __ >>> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS >>> w2...@arrl.net >>> >>> On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:29 AM, Slava Baytalskiy >>>wrote: >>> Hi everyone! Finally assembled the KAT500 last night. I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to K3/P3. Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit. Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier. And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-( I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-) I'm a geek, i guess... __ Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS w2...@arrl.net >>> >>> > >__ >Elecraft mailing list >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >Message delivered to mzil...@roadrunner.com Matt Zilmer, W6NIA -- "Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe." -A. Lincoln __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Go Box
The case is clearly not sealed. Notice the gaps on all four sides of the panel insert. Is it enough? Maybe... Of course, the user should keep the entire case in the shade, too. 73, Tony K4QE On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 12:30 PM, Howard Hoyt wrote: > Hi Ken, list, > > I've done some pretty serious thermal studies of the KX3 ( > http://proaudioeng.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/PAE-Kx31-chart1.jpg). > I looked that the "Go Box" concept a while ago and agree; The problem with > the idea is that the KX3 uses the case back for all it's PA heatsinking. > In the KX3 case design the front-half of the clamshell case is almost > completely thermally disconnected from the case back (only the thumbscrew > area is in contact), and cannot remove PA heat by conduction. In the Go > Box concept the front panel is the only thing exposed to ambient air flow. > If the back part of the case was to be sealed in a closed cavity or > encased in foam, heat build-up would be inevitable. The Go Box idea may > not kill the KX3's performance (drift, thermal limitations) if the KX3 is > only used as a receiver or very low duty-cycle operation. Of course, one > could put a fan in the box, but here we go again, killing the KX3's most > hard-won and fantastic attributes: low power consumptio > n, no moving parts and no acoustic noise. > > Howie - WA4PSC > > > How about heat dissipation if the intent is to operate the radio >>> in the box and encased in foam? >>> >>> Ken - K0PP >>> On Jun 6, 2014 5:50 AM, "Jeff Herr" wrote: >>> >>> > >>Saw this onhttp://www.amateurradio.com/ >> >>http://www.oe2atn.at/tom/gobox/ >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to anthony.scandu...@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] AT1 question
It must be my old age setting in but I can't get my head on right. I have an AT1 attenuator I just finished assembling. My understanding of dB attenuation must be off. If I use an input of 1 volt, shouldn't I expect 0.1 volt out if I have selected 20 dB attenuation? Harlan NC3C Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
This was so helpful, mere words can't describe! Thanks Eric. '73. Brian. Sent from my iPad > On 6 Jun 2014, at 05:41, Eric Ross wrote: > > I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I > sure enjoyed the build. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ > > Eric > wb7sde > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to br...@chirpytom.plus.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Expecting a delivery ... but didn't happen
I had the same problem with another item. Go to the local UPS office. Ask to speak to a supervisor. Explain what happened. They have very specific location device/software that uses Google Maps. In my case the driver actually left it next door, about 100 yards at my neighbor's house and the Google Maps picture showed the exact location.. I went to the house and showed the picture to my neighbor saying, "UPS said I should show this to you and if the package wasn't here I would have to go to the police and let them investigate." He said he was about to bring it over. Hope you get your unit. Gene __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT soldering sta....?
I used several Weller solder stations thru the years. I just retired to the garage, a model WCC for which I can no longer find tips. I had one tip about 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide chisel point that was great for very heavy soldering of large metal objects (actually too much for a PL-259). Lost it last fall outside. But I finally just tired out of trying to keep a tin on the old point that I used for sm soldering (typ 0805 and 1206 size). My dog and my wife were tired of my rant against the old POS. So I sent my $300 to a Amazon.com vendor and bought a brand new Hakko FX-951, with three tips: T15-ILS conical (for I know not what), T115-D12 (for most sm work), and T15DL52 with 1/4-inch chisel for heavy-duty (incl PL-259's). I have built two pc boards in the two weeks I have had the new solder station and it is amazing. Both boards are major projects with over 100 components. I dial in the temperature exactly to what I want and the unit maintains that while soldering; not just a rheostat but a full feedback temp control. Even soldering some filter cans to the ground plane of the pcb was done well with the D12; previous use of the WCC was total muck-up cold soldering which required using the 3/8-inch tip to get good flow. I like the wire tip cleaner vs using a wet sponge. It keeps tip bright and ready. I do a quick plunge-swipe before each sm component is soldered. I've found with a little experimentation that 670F works well for sm with 60/40 solder. The T15-DL52 seems very hot at this temp, making quick work of heavier items. But if you are not a person that uses a solder iron a lot, the Weller probably is a reasonable choice. If You build a lot or for work, then the FX-951 is what you want! I have no desire to go back to Weller. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com "Kits made by KL7UW" Dubus Mag business: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output. The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for. I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...). Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the KAT500 before turning the K3 on. 73 George AI4VZ -Original Message- From: Mike Reublin Sent: Friday, June 6, 2014 11:28 AM To: Slava Baytalskiy Cc: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly I power my P3 and PR6-10 from the RCA jack on the P3, using an RCA splitter. If the K3 can supply enough current for your needs, add one more splitter and run all three from there. 73, Mike NF4L On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: Oh, and one question: what do people do with all these power cables? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] AT1 question
I received an off list responce that said my thinking was ok OK. Then why am I getting 0.2 volts out? And with 1dB selected, I should be getting 0.8928.but I get 0.9936 with either 1dB switch selected. YET, all of the resistors are installed correctly and the suggested resistance checks are all but dead on. When viewing the schematic, for a 1dB factor, there is a 5.6 ohm in series with a 910 ohm and the output is across the 910. Using ohm's law It looks like I should be getting out what I AM getting out. Confusion has set in... I may need a Corona or two to figure this out Harlan NC3C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AT1 question
dB = 20 * Log (Vout / Vin) 73, David W4DES On Jun 6, 2014, at 4:21 PM, hsherr...@reagan.com wrote: > I received an off list responce that said my thinking was ok > > OK. Then why am I getting 0.2 volts out? > And with 1dB selected, I should be getting 0.8928.but I get 0.9936 with > either 1dB switch selected. YET, all of the resistors are installed > correctly and the suggested resistance checks are all but dead on. > > When viewing the schematic, for a 1dB factor, there is a 5.6 ohm in series > with a 910 ohm and the output is across the 910. Using ohm's law It looks > like I should be getting out what I AM getting out. > > Confusion has set in... I may need a Corona or two to figure this out > > Harlan > NC3C > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to w4...@sandersweb.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AT1 question
that is the equation I'm using to figure what I "should" be getting out... But that's NOT what I'm getting. And, the reading im getting agree with the value of the resistors used in the voltage divider. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID David Sanders W4DES wrote: >dB = 20 * Log (Vout / Vin) > >73, David W4DES > > > >On Jun 6, 2014, at 4:21 PM, hsherr...@reagan.com wrote: > >> I received an off list responce that said my thinking was ok >> >> OK. Then why am I getting 0.2 volts out? >> And with 1dB selected, I should be getting 0.8928.but I get 0.9936 with >> either 1dB switch selected. YET, all of the resistors are installed >> correctly and the suggested resistance checks are all but dead on. >> >> When viewing the schematic, for a 1dB factor, there is a 5.6 ohm in series >> with a 910 ohm and the output is across the 910. Using ohm's law It >> looks like I should be getting out what I AM getting out. >> >> Confusion has set in... I may need a Corona or two to figure this out >> >> Harlan >> NC3C >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to w4...@sandersweb.net > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AT1 question
Harlan, You should get 0.1 volts when you terminate your attentuator with 50 Ohms - are you probably using a high z voltmeter? The output of the attentuator can be seen as a 0.2 V voltage source with 50 ohms internal resistance - if you terminate it with a 50 ohms load, the 0.2 volts are divided between the internal resistance and the load, but if you use a high z termination instead, the voltage drop on across the high z is 0.2 volts... Greetings Ralf, DL6OAP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AT1 question
Ok all.. The 50 ohm load must be it. I was using a Fluke 5520A calibrator and a Fluke 8508A Reference Multimeter to read the output WITHOUT a load Been a long day. Thanks to all Harlan NC3C Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Ralf Wilhelm wrote: >Harlan, > >You should get 0.1 volts when you terminate your attentuator with 50 Ohms - >are you probably using a high z voltmeter? The output of the attentuator can >be seen as a 0.2 V voltage source with 50 ohms internal resistance - if you >terminate it with a 50 ohms load, the 0.2 volts are divided between the >internal resistance and the load, but if you use a high z termination instead, >the voltage drop on across the high z is 0.2 volts... > >Greetings > >Ralf, DL6OAP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AT1 question
Only if you have the attenuator terminated properly! On 6/6/2014 2:57 PM, Harlan wrote: It must be my old age setting in but I can't get my head on right. I have an AT1 attenuator I just finished assembling. My understanding of dB attenuation must be off. If I use an input of 1 volt, shouldn't I expect 0.1 volt out if I have selected 20 dB attenuation? Harlan NC3C Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to n...@roadrunner.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?
Lenny, I would not think a capacitor across the key would make much difference. There are other choices - read on. First of all determine whether the keyclicks are caused by RF-in-the-shack or not (so you do not go chasing the wrong gremlin). Operate the K2 (and any amplifiers you may have been using) into a dummy load while monitoring on another receiver with a wire for an antenna - space the wire from the dummy load to give an S-9 signal into the monitor receiver. Do you hear keyclicks? If not, then look for the mentioned cures for RF-in-the-shack. If the K2 (and any amplifiers) still have keyclicks, then I have to ask what is the serial number of the K2? If it is below SN 4060, it may not have the keying waveshape mod installed. If you do have the keying waveshape mod installed, *or* the serial number is greater than 4060, you likely have a problem with the K2 keying area. (Note that there are a lot of *ifs* in the statements above - observe them carefully before digging into your K2). Currently, the K2 Keying waveshape mod is not available from Elecraft because the PIN diode that was used on the RF Board is no longer available. The new K2s use an SMD PIN diode on a carrier board in place of the original PIN diode. I have the older K2 keying waveshape mod instructions on my computer and can email it to any interested parties along with the part number and information about how to install the SMD PIN diode if you send me a direct email. I would post the instructions on the reflector, but the reflector will not accept attachments for the original instructions. HISTORY - the basic K2/10 did have some keyclicks that were not troublesome until an amplifier (namely the KPA100) was added which also amplified the keyclicks. The K2 Keying Waveshape Mod was designed to eliminate those keyclicks. The first K2 with that keyclick mod added to the design was SN 4060. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/6/2014 12:09 PM, w2bvh wrote: On my K2 Is it ok to put a 1 - 10 nF bypass cap across my straight key? I've got a 6M KW amp and evidently rf was getting into the key line at power levels over ~350 W and keeping the system keyed all the time. Three turns on the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead fixed it, but I'm getting on air comments about key clicks. I'm going to switch to RG174 on the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the key terminals, if its not harmful to the K2. 73, Lenny W2BVH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] [Dx4win] FW: Can't interface Dx4win to K3
Bob, Bryan,Thank you for response. Runs normally until I select a spot which should send the info to the K3. I can see updated spots in the spot window. Selecting a spot disables the radio interface. Although it resumes indicating incoming spots. FRUSTRATING. I believe it is independent of the LP Bridge because I have connected a native port #1 straight through to the K3 with same result.Howard k2hkals...@nc.rr.com > Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 16:32:52 -0400 > From: rflytieanth...@frontier.com > To: dx4...@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Dx4win] FW: [Elecraft] Can't interface Dx4win to K3 > > I am using lp bridge and having trouble staying connected to dx4win > also. I stay connected just fine until i go split operation and then i > get a time out. Maybe it is the lpt bridge. > > Bob > Bob Papa November > On 6/6/2014 12:07, Howard K2HK wrote: > > > > > > From: Howard K2HK > > Date: June 6, 2014 at 1:30:27 PM > > Subject:( K3)Can't interface Dx4win to K3 > > No response from Dx4win reflector so trying once more.K3 does not change > > frequency when using Dx4win 8.05. Simply times out when a spot is selected. > > It had been working w/o problem. > > My setup: Win7 computer, native serial port (com1) , P3, Pigknob, > > Winkeyer. I am using LP bridge for virtual serial ports. All programs > > respond as normal, i.e.,keying, kkey macro program, K3 utility. However, > > when selecting a spot on DX spots screen I receive the radio time out, > > interface disabled. So far as I can tell the DX spot screen updates and all > > other features function normally. I have tried the cable directly to K3 and > > with another K3 with similar results. I have also changed serial ports. > > 73, > > Howard ..K2HK > > > > > > __ > > DX4WIN mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/dx4win > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:dx4...@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > __ > DX4WIN mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/dx4win > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:dx4...@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
George, Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability. The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade). I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output. If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included). Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote: My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output. The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for. I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...). Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the KAT500 before turning the K3 on. 73 George AI4VZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember. Cheers, Fred KE7X -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy Cc: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly George, Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability. The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade). I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output. If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included). Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote: > My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output. > The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 > Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater > than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for. > > I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on > prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under > Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...). > Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using > the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 > cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the > KAT500 before turning the K3 on. > 73 > George > AI4VZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to fc...@ece.montana.edu __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be turned on before the K3. Is that old info? Phil W7OX On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote: Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember. Cheers, Fred KE7X -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy Cc: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly George, Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability. The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade). I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output. If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included). Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote: My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output. The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for. I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...). Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the KAT500 before turning the K3 on. 73 George AI4VZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
That still may be the case, and it sure is for the KRC2, but there seems to be enough delay in the K3 reading the AUXBUS line that turning them on at the same time works OK for me. -Original Message- From: Phil Wheeler [mailto:w...@socal.rr.com] Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 5:16 PM To: Cady, Fred; Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be turned on before the K3. Is that old info? Phil W7OX On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote: > Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go > that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn > on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you > turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the > KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember. > Cheers, > Fred KE7X > > > > -Original Message- > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of > Don Wilhelm > Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM > To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy > Cc: Elecraft List > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly > > George, > > Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s > and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to > provide 1 Amp capability. > > The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being > activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum > value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations > will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater > than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade). > > I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply > rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output. > > If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and > other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would > suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in > turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included). > > Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with > the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that > device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer > the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote: >> My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output. >> The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 >> Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater >> than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for. >> >> I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on >> prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under >> Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...). >> Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using >> the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 >> cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the >> KAT500 before turning the K3 on. >> 73 >> George >> AI4VZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Thanks, Fred. Good to know. I just leave my KAT500 on. Phil On 6/6/14, 4:18 PM, Cady, Fred wrote: That still may be the case, and it sure is for the KRC2, but there seems to be enough delay in the K3 reading the AUXBUS line that turning them on at the same time works OK for me. -Original Message- From: Phil Wheeler [mailto:w...@socal.rr.com] Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 5:16 PM To: Cady, Fred; Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be turned on before the K3. Is that old info? Phil W7OX On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote: Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember. Cheers, Fred KE7X -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy Cc: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly George, Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability. The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade). I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output. If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included). Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote: My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output. The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for. I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...). Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the KAT500 before turning the K3 on. 73 George AI4VZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
Some place back in time I was told to turn the KAT500 on first, followed by the KAT500, and then the K3. I still do it this way and have never had any problems getting things to play well together after initial turn-on. Unlikely that I would want to change from something that works. Bill W2BLC K-Line __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT soldering sta....?
To Ed and all the others who responded to my query. I weighed all your ideas and bought a Weller WESD51. Nice unit and does have var temp. So far works well. Sent from my iPhone ...nr4c. bill > On Jun 6, 2014, at 3:48 PM, Edward R Cole wrote: > > I used several Weller solder stations thru the years. I just retired to the > garage, a model WCC for which I can no longer find tips. I had one tip about > 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide chisel point that was great for very heavy soldering of > large metal objects (actually too much for a PL-259). Lost it last fall > outside. But I finally just tired out of trying to keep a tin on the old > point that I used for sm soldering (typ 0805 and 1206 size). My dog and my > wife were tired of my rant against the old POS. > > So I sent my $300 to a Amazon.com vendor and bought a brand new Hakko FX-951, > with three tips: T15-ILS conical (for I know not what), T115-D12 (for most sm > work), and T15DL52 with 1/4-inch chisel for heavy-duty (incl PL-259's). > > I have built two pc boards in the two weeks I have had the new solder station > and it is amazing. Both boards are major projects with over 100 components. > I dial in the temperature exactly to what I want and the unit maintains that > while soldering; not just a rheostat but a full feedback temp control. > > Even soldering some filter cans to the ground plane of the pcb was done well > with the D12; previous use of the WCC was total muck-up cold soldering which > required using the 3/8-inch tip to get good flow. > > I like the wire tip cleaner vs using a wet sponge. It keeps tip bright and > ready. I do a quick plunge-swipe before each sm component is soldered. I've > found with a little experimentation that 670F works well for sm with 60/40 > solder. The T15-DL52 seems very hot at this temp, making quick work of > heavier items. > > But if you are not a person that uses a solder iron a lot, the Weller > probably is a reasonable choice. If You build a lot or for work, then the > FX-951 is what you want! I have no desire to go back to Weller. > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > http://www.kl7uw.com >"Kits made by KL7UW" > Dubus Mag business: >dubus...@gmail.com > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to n...@widomaker.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
My KAT500 is always on. It is forever on. It is on, and on, and on. Almost never is it off. The only time it is off is when I am out for some extended time period (more than 24 hours) and I throw the master switch that turns everything off. Other than that, the KAT500 with its cute little green LED lights is on. In my shack, when all the other equipment is off, the KAT500 is on. Actually other than the master switch, I am not sure if I have ever turned off the KAT500. I may not know how to turn off the KAT500. The K3, the KX3, the KX1 are not like the KAT500. They are turned off each night just prior to me climbing up the stairs to the main floor of the house to bed down for the night. I turn off the K3 and KX3. I never turn off the KAT500. I turn off (front panel off) the KPA500. I turn off the lamps in the shack. I put my two Mac computers to sleep (sometimes). I make sure everything is off except for the KAT500s that remain on with their little green LED lights shining thru the night. Green, green, the lights they shine, those LED lights at night. Green, green, the KAT500 stays on, it stays on thru the night. 73, phil, K7PEH P.S. you know, each morning when I go to turn on the K3, I find that the KAT500 is already on and ready to do its deed for the day. On Jun 6, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote: > Some place back in time I was told to turn the KAT500 on first, followed by > the KAT500, and then the K3. I still do it this way and have never had any > problems getting things to play well together after initial turn-on. Unlikely > that I would want to change from something that works. > > Bill W2BLC K-Line > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to phys...@mac.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Transmit Audio Problems
Okay, I have gone through all the filters and adjusted them using a noise source and spectrogram. The carrier showing up on PTT in USB or LSB has disappeared but I think this went away with installing the top cover. I still have problems with the audio. I set the dial frequency to 14200.00 USB and transmit a 700Hz tone. Monitoring the transmitted signal with my K3 and P3 this is what I see. The expected spike at 14200.70, another shorter spike at 14.201.40, and another small spike at 14.202.10 -- exact multiples (harmonics) of the original 700Hz tone. These spikes show up on all bands but 20 is the only band I have actually used the P3 markers to measure. What should I be checking for that could cause this? Thanks, Mike - KI0HA On 6/3/2014 7:38 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Mike, I can't say for certain, but yes, your carrier balance may not be optimized *and* your SSB OP1 filter settings may not be correct. Either or both could cause the condition you state. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
