Re: [Elecraft] and now something completely different.. the w2

[Chris Tate - N6WM]

Thanks Brian and thanks to Jack W6 F ine B usiness for getting back to me as 
well.. I think I am on the path to a solution.

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brian & 
Cyndi
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 2:57 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] and now something completely different.. the w2

1. Not possible. The two sensors feed into an electronic switch that connects 
one sensor at a time to the microprocessor/LED bargraph display.

2. See the "W2 Owners Manual Rev D2", available on the Elecraft website. 
On page 5, "Important note" #5, it describes how to put the W2 into "search" 
mode. The W2 will automatically connect to the sensor getting RF. I wouldn't 
recommend allowing *both* sensors to be hot; CW or SSB will cause the sensors 
to switch rapidly and the resulting display would be meaningless.

73,
Brian, W6FVI

On 2/23/2016 7:18 AM, Chris Tate - N6WM wrote:
> I have installed a number of W2 watt meters in a large contest station in the 
> bay area.  In general this has worked out real well, but now that I am 
> setting up a second SO2R position I need to ask if anyone has either written 
> some software or if it is at all possible to
>
>
> 1.Observe data from both sensor 1 and 2 at the same time
>
> 2.   Switch without manual intervention (pressing the button) between 
> sensor 1 and 2.
>
> If anyone has an intuitive solution to this so I don't have to move to 2 
> physical watt meters it would be great.
>
> Apologies if this has been discussed at some point in the past.
>
>
> Thanks
> Chris
> N6WM
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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[Vic Rosenthal]

When I lived in California I had a 80/160m inverted L in which the horizontal 
part passed over the house. There were alarm wires running through the attic, 
and when I first tried it I actually vaporized a terminating resistor at one of 
the windows. Those wires were quite long and possibly resonant lengths.
I solved the problem by installing no. 31 ferrite toroids on the alarm wires 
and also the power supply wires at the alarm control box. I wrapped as many 
turns of wire as I could on them. That might fix your issue.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 23 Feb 2016, at 11:03 PM, paulb  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello again folks
> 
> Thanks to all for the suggestions and hints to  what this problem could be.
> 
> Tests have been done at 2 locations; my own home station and here at another
> property  ( work in progress as we
> politely say..) about 125km south of Auckland. 
> 
> The same second harmonic garbage is heard at both places. Over the last day
> I have completely swapped out
> all the 80m and 40m antenna and feeder components here in the provinces. No
> change.
> 
> What I now strongly suspect is the only common point at both locales;
> 
> both properties have burglar alarms installed.  Both are almost identical
> well known European name brand units.
> There is no detectable RF radiation from the processors or wiring.
> The clincher now that I think about the last time we ran 2 stations here
> without any drama
> was before the alarm was commissioned here.
> 
> I have dropped the supply and backup DC to the alarm here without any
> change,
> Likely 3.5 meg RF is simply hammering the PIR's, cable runs are in the roof
> cavity.
> Can't %100 prove this without fairly major re-wiring, will leave it as is
> for the meantime,
> 
> thanks again guys
> 
> cheers from ZL
> 
> Paul 
> zl1ajy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Slighty-off-topic-80-meter-second-harmnic-how-to-stop-tp7614506p7614534.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #281 Perceived Output Issue

[Nr4c]

In all the text you never mention the voltage at the radio DC input under the 
TX load. 

What did you use to calibrate the "known good" mfj meter?

I'm surprised the TX CAL completed with this result. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Feb 23, 2016, at 10:25 PM, Ian Kahn  wrote:
> 
> Several people offered some very good suggestions and asked several valid
> questions about my testing. Here are answers to many of those questions:
> 
> 1. The meter I'm using in the test is a known-good MFJ-815B HF power/SWR
> meter.
> 2. I'm using a known-good 300W dummy load for my "antenna", so any
> reflected power is minimal, as is SWR.
> 3. I do have the internal ATU installed, but it is in BYPASS, as I have a
> resonant antenna on 20m-10m and use the KAT500 for 40m/80m, or when I run
> power.
> 4. Test results at lower power levels:
> 
> 10m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 19-20w on meter; 50w out - ~30w on
> meter
> 12m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 30w on meter
> 15m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 35w on meter
> 17m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 35w on meter
> 20m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
> 40m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
> 80m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
> 
> I also ran the TX Gain Calibration from the K3 utility one more time, with
> a different cable. Here are the results of that calibration (note - I
> didn't run the milliwatt calibration because I don't use a transverter with
> the IF Out. It just goes to my P3):
> 
> K3 Tx Gain Calibration data written on 2016-02-23 at 22:18:30
> K3 Serial Number 00281
> K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s.
> Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.8.18
> 1900 kHz TxGain LP  52
> 3750 kHz TxGain LP  30
> 5336 kHz TxGain LP  56
> 7150 kHz TxGain LP  46
> 10125 kHz TxGain LP  52
> 14200 kHz TxGain LP  23
> 18110 kHz TxGain LP  24
> 21200 kHz TxGain LP  19
> 24930 kHz TxGain LP  25
> 29000 kHz TxGain LP  30
> Several people offered some very good suggestions and asked several valid
> questions about my testing. Here are answers to many of those questions:
> 
> 1. The meter I'm using in the test is a known-good MFJ-815B HF power/SWR
> meter.
> 2. I'm using a known-good 300W dummy load for my "antenna", so any
> reflected power is minimal, as is SWR.
> 3. I do have the internal ATU installed, but it is in BYPASS, as I have a
> resonant antenna on 20m-10m and use the KAT500 for 40m/80m, or when I run
> power.
> 4. Test results at lower power levels:
> 
> 10m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 19-20w on meter; 50w out - ~30w on
> meter
> 12m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 30w on meter
> 15m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 35w on meter
> 17m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 35w on meter
> 20m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
> 40m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
> 80m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
> 
> I also ran the TX Gain Calibration from the K3 utility one more time, with
> a different cable. Here are the results of that calibration (note - I
> didn't run the milliwatt calibration because I don't use a transverter with
> the IF Out. It just goes to my P3):
> 
> K3 Tx Gain Calibration data written on 2016-02-23 at 22:18:30
> K3 Serial Number 00281
> K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s.
> Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.8.18
> 1900 kHz TxGain LP  52
> 3750 kHz TxGain LP  30
> 5336 kHz TxGain LP  56
> 7150 kHz TxGain LP  46
> 10125 kHz TxGain LP  52
> 14200 kHz TxGain LP  23
> 18110 kHz TxGain LP  24
> 21200 kHz TxGain LP  19
> 24930 kHz TxGain LP  25
> 29000 kHz TxGain LP  30
> 52000 kHz TxGain LP  24
> 1900 kHz TxGain HP  46
> 3750 kHz TxGain HP  48
> 5336 kHz TxGain HP  87
> 7150 kHz TxGain HP  62
> 10125 kHz TxGain HP  58
> 14200 kHz TxGain HP  28
> 18110 kHz TxGain HP  21
> 21200 kHz TxGain HP  18
> 24930 kHz TxGain HP  18
> 29000 kHz TxGain HP  27
> 52000 kHz TxGain HP  13
> 
> After running the TX Gain Calibration again, I checked the above output
> numbers, and they stay the same. It seems as if I am losing about 20% of my
> output power for any setting above 10w, except on 10m, where at 100w I seem
> to be losing about 50w. It also seems as if maybe there is an issue with
> the internal 100w PA, based strictly on my observations and a wild guess.
> If there are any other suggestions/recommendations, I'm all ears. If not,
> the next step is an email to the good folks in Aptos.
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> --Ian
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com
> 10-10 #74624  North Georgia Chapter #2038
> PODXS 070 #1962
> K3 #281, P3 #688 KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 5:40 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Ian,

Re: [Elecraft] K3 #281 Perceived Output Issue

[Ian Kahn]

Several people offered some very good suggestions and asked several valid
questions about my testing. Here are answers to many of those questions:

1. The meter I'm using in the test is a known-good MFJ-815B HF power/SWR
meter.
2. I'm using a known-good 300W dummy load for my "antenna", so any
reflected power is minimal, as is SWR.
3. I do have the internal ATU installed, but it is in BYPASS, as I have a
resonant antenna on 20m-10m and use the KAT500 for 40m/80m, or when I run
power.
4. Test results at lower power levels:

10m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 19-20w on meter; 50w out - ~30w on
meter
12m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 30w on meter
15m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 35w on meter
17m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 35w on meter
20m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
40m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter
80m 10w out - 10w on meter; 25w out - 20w on meter; 50w out - 40w on meter

I also ran the TX Gain Calibration from the K3 utility one more time, with
a different cable. Here are the results of that calibration (note - I
didn't run the milliwatt calibration because I don't use a transverter with
the IF Out. It just goes to my P3):

K3 Tx Gain Calibration data written on 2016-02-23 at 22:18:30
K3 Serial Number 00281
K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s.
Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.8.18
1900 kHz TxGain LP  52
3750 kHz TxGain LP  30
5336 kHz TxGain LP  56
7150 kHz TxGain LP  46
10125 kHz TxGain LP  52
14200 kHz TxGain LP  23
18110 kHz TxGain LP  24
21200 kHz TxGain LP  19
24930 kHz TxGain LP  25
29000 kHz TxGain LP  30
52000 kHz TxGain LP  24
1900 kHz TxGain HP  46
3750 kHz TxGain HP  48
5336 kHz TxGain HP  87
7150 kHz TxGain HP  62
10125 kHz TxGain HP  58
14200 kHz TxGain HP  28
18110 kHz TxGain HP  21
21200 kHz TxGain HP  18
24930 kHz TxGain HP  18
29000 kHz TxGain HP  27
52000 kHz TxGain HP  13

After running the TX Gain Calibration again, I checked the above output
numbers, and they stay the same. It seems as if I am losing about 20% of my
output power for any setting above 10w, except on 10m, where at 100w I seem
to be losing about 50w. It also seems as if maybe there is an issue with
the internal 100w PA, based strictly on my observations and a wild guess.
If there are any other suggestions/recommendations, I'm all ears. If not,
the next step is an email to the good folks in Aptos.

Thanks and 73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
10-10 #74624  North Georgia Chapter #2038
PODXS 070 #1962
K3 #281, P3 #688 KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468

On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 5:40 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Ian,
>
> Try TX Gain Calibration again - use a different coax jumper between the K3
> and dummy load - that could possibly be faulty.  If that does not correct
> it, contact Elecraft support.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 2/22/2016 5:29 PM, Ian Kahn wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> I upgraded the MCU and ran the TX Gain Calibration at that time,
> successfully. I also ran it again Friday night, while testing, to make sure
> that wasn't the issue. It ran successfully both times.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ian, KM4IK
> On Feb 22, 2016 5:24 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:
>
>> Ian,
>>
>> Did you upgrade after MCU version from 5.13 or below to 5.14 or greater?
>> That requires you to do the TX Gain Calibration (see 5.14 Release
>> Notes).  K3 Utility makes the task easy - just connect a dummy load that is
>> good for 1.8 to 54 MHz and capable of 50 watts or greater and the process
>> is automatic - follow the prompts in K3 Utility, it will take only about 2
>> minutes to complete after the dummy load is in place.
>>
>> If K3 Utility fails the TX Gain, there is one more chance - do each band
>> manually (see the Calibration part of the manual).
>>
>> If that does not correct it, contact support.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>> On 2/22/2016 11:21 AM, Ian Kahn wrote:
>>
>>> Reposting, since this didn't seem to get out when I originally sent it
>>> last
>>> Friday evening. If you get this a second time, please forgive the noise.
>>>
>>> Thanks and 73,
>>>
>>> --Ian
>>> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
>>> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
>>> km4ik@gmail.com
>>> 10-10 #74624  North Georgia Chapter #2038
>>> PODXS 070 #1962
>>> K3 #281, P3 #688 KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Ian Kahn 
>>> Date: Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 10:37 PM
>>> Subject: [Elecraft][K3] K3 #281 Perceived Output Issue
>>> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>>>
>>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> I have what I think is an output issue with my K3 s/n 281. When set at
>>> 100W
>>> output, I am getting the following approximate output values:
>>>
>>> 10m ~55w
>>> 12m ~40w
>>> 15m ~50w
>>> 17m ~60w
>>> 20m ~60w
>>> 40m ~70w
>>> 80m ~70w
>>> 160m~70w
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Wes (N7WS)]

Look into Ecoflex. http://www.vibroplex.com/contents/en-us/d39.html

I'm using it from the gear in the shack through the wall --> Andrew Heliax to 
the base of the tower---> Ecoflex up the tower.


So far, so good.

I measured some Buryflex years ago for a friend who had 100' dropped shipped to 
me.  It's in the storage room someplace and not in my antenna system.



On 2/23/2016 2:41 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:

Jim,

Thank you. I have heard of Davis RF BuryFlex, but have not seen it offered by 
any of the on-line sellers. I assume you purchase direct from the supplier? I 
concur with using Amphenol connectors.

Thank you.

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net



On Feb 23, 2016, at 11:10, Jim Brown  wrote:

On Tue,2/23/2016 9:05 AM, Robert Nobis wrote:

I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3 and 
KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and 
interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best 
possible isolation between the two rigs.

Faced with exactly that issue, I chose Davis RF BuryFlex as the best compromise 
between shielding effectiveness and flexibility. I use only Amphenol 83-1SP 
connectors that I carefully solder myself. And I use only Amphenol adapters 
where required (elbows, barrels, Tees). When a male N-connector is required, I 
use the excellent Andros connectors.

73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity Mode filter selection question

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

In the filter configurations the filter lineup and width definitions must
be identical or you will get state changes in the main and sub RX that do
not happen at the same time in diversity.  If the filter offsets are
incorrect you can get a similar effect.

73, Guy K2AV

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016, Bill OMara via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I'm the proud owner of four K3 radios at my contest station and one of my
> new K3 (89XX) is doing something different than the other three and I'm
> trying to understand what it's doing.
>
>
>
> In the diversity mode as I change the width control and reach the selection
> points for different CW filters to be selected I hear what sounds like two
> (one after the other) clicks of what I'm guessing is the two new filters
> being selected as the width is either decreased of increased. This same
> dual
> clicking sounds happen at each filter selection point.
>
>
>
> What's weird is that the other three K3 radio don't do this.  Is it a
> different configuration setting?  If so, what is the configuration setting?
>
>
>
> This same radio doesn't make any clicking sound when changing the width
> control, filters when it's NOT in diversity mode.
>
>
>
> Any ideas of what happening and why?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
>
>
> 73 Bill  W4RM
>
>
>
> Please use w...@aol.com  
> as my primary account
>
>
>
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-- 
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[Elecraft] Diversity Mode filter selection question

[Bill OMara via Elecraft]

I'm the proud owner of four K3 radios at my contest station and one of my
new K3 (89XX) is doing something different than the other three and I'm
trying to understand what it's doing.

 

In the diversity mode as I change the width control and reach the selection
points for different CW filters to be selected I hear what sounds like two
(one after the other) clicks of what I'm guessing is the two new filters
being selected as the width is either decreased of increased. This same dual
clicking sounds happen at each filter selection point.

 

What's weird is that the other three K3 radio don't do this.  Is it a
different configuration setting?  If so, what is the configuration setting?

 

This same radio doesn't make any clicking sound when changing the width
control, filters when it's NOT in diversity mode.

 

Any ideas of what happening and why?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

73 Bill  W4RM

 

Please use w...@aol.com   as my primary account

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 unable to change passband control shift amount in SSB

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

Setting to “NOR” by a long press on Shift control should reset the passband, if 
having it off center is what’s causing your issue.

Full disclosure, I don’t use SHIFT/WIDTH on SSB, so switching between the two 
modes is not something I’ve done since building the radio in 2008 :-)

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342




> On Feb 23, 2016, at 4:10 PM, Jeff Schmidt  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Grant, I'm not sure what you mean.
> 
> 'shift lo'
> short press shows 'FC 8 1.50' (expected when config:PB CTRL is set to .01)
> long press works, I can set <--Norm-->, as does long press+left/right 
> (NORM1/NORM2)
> 
> 'hi width'
> short press shows 'BW 2.80' (expected when config:PB CTRL is set to .01)
> long press switches between 'I' & 'II'
> 
> Jeff
> 
> On 2/23/2016 15:48, Grant Youngman wrote:
>> Did you try resetting the passband to "normal" by doing a long press on the 
>> control?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Feb 23, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jeff Schmidt  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I can no longer select low cut/high cut (vs. shift/width) in LSB/USB.
>>> A little homework reveals that this as a known side effect of changing the 
>>> passband shift from its default.
>>> I'm sure I must have changed the PB CTRL to .01 at some point, but I can't 
>>> seem to change it back; a firmware reload didn't help. Moving VFO A while 
>>> in config:PB CTRL gives "N/A".
>>> 
>>> Note that this is only manifesting itself on SSB (all other modes are set 
>>> to the default of .05, and selecting hi/lo / shift/width works FB).
>>> 
>>> S/N 7080, old synths
>>> versions before/after firmware reload:
>>> 5.38 1.25 2.86 2.86 1.03
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
> 
> -- 
> 73,
> Jeff KC9WSJ
> @ EN52wf

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Re: [Elecraft] and now something completely different.. the w2

[Brian & Cyndi]

1. Not possible. The two sensors feed into an electronic switch that 
connects one sensor at a time to the microprocessor/LED bargraph display.


2. See the "W2 Owners Manual Rev D2", available on the Elecraft website. 
On page 5, "Important note" #5, it describes how to put the W2 into 
"search" mode. The W2 will automatically connect to the sensor getting 
RF. I wouldn't recommend allowing *both* sensors to be hot; CW or SSB 
will cause the sensors to switch rapidly and the resulting display would 
be meaningless.


73,
Brian, W6FVI

On 2/23/2016 7:18 AM, Chris Tate - N6WM wrote:

I have installed a number of W2 watt meters in a large contest station in the 
bay area.  In general this has worked out real well, but now that I am setting 
up a second SO2R position I need to ask if anyone has either written some 
software or if it is at all possible to


1.Observe data from both sensor 1 and 2 at the same time

2.   Switch without manual intervention (pressing the button) between 
sensor 1 and 2.

If anyone has an intuitive solution to this so I don't have to move to 2 
physical watt meters it would be great.

Apologies if this has been discussed at some point in the past.


Thanks
Chris
N6WM
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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[Mark Goldberg]

I would expect that if it was getting into an alarm system, the alarm would
fail in some way. I had a bad problem with mine, cured by a 5th order 200
kHz lowpass filter where simple ferrites and caps did not work. The alarm
system has low frequency digital data. I built it with some caps and a few
turns on mix 31 cores I had. Since it is not a 50 ohm system, the filter is
not exactly as designed, but it worked well enough to completely eliminate
the problem. I put it at the alarm controller that was getting affected.

73,

Mark
W7MLG
On Feb 23, 2016 2:04 PM, "paulb"  wrote:

>
> Hello again folks
>
> Thanks to all for the suggestions and hints to  what this problem could be.
>
> Tests have been done at 2 locations; my own home station and here at
> another
> property  ( work in progress as we
> politely say..) about 125km south of Auckland.
>
> The same second harmonic garbage is heard at both places. Over the last day
> I have completely swapped out
> all the 80m and 40m antenna and feeder components here in the provinces. No
> change.
>
> What I now strongly suspect is the only common point at both locales;
>
> both properties have burglar alarms installed.  Both are almost identical
> well known European name brand units.
> There is no detectable RF radiation from the processors or wiring.
> The clincher now that I think about the last time we ran 2 stations here
> without any drama
> was before the alarm was commissioned here.
>
> I have dropped the supply and backup DC to the alarm here without any
> change,
> Likely 3.5 meg RF is simply hammering the PIR's, cable runs are in the roof
> cavity.
> Can't %100 prove this without fairly major re-wiring, will leave it as is
> for the meantime,
>
> thanks again guys
>
> cheers from ZL
>
> Paul
> zl1ajy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Slighty-off-topic-80-meter-second-harmnic-how-to-stop-tp7614506p7614534.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[David Kuechenmeister]

So does Davis... http://www.davisrf.com/buryflex.php. I've bought a lot of wire 
from them. Plus, I like calling them to place the order, rather than filling 
out an automatic form.
vy 73,Dave N4KD 

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 5:13 PM, John E Bastin  
wrote:
 

 
On Feb 23, 2016, at 16:41, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> 
> Thank you. I have heard of Davis RF BuryFlex, but have not seen it offered by 
> any of the on-line sellers. I assume you purchase direct from the supplier? I 
> concur with using Amphenol connectors. 

The Wireman sells Davis RF BuryFlex RG-8, product number 103A.

https://thewireman.com/coaxp.html

Hope this helps.

73,


John K8AJS
jbas...@sssnet.com



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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[John E Bastin]

On Feb 23, 2016, at 16:41, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> 
> Thank you. I have heard of Davis RF BuryFlex, but have not seen it offered by 
> any of the on-line sellers. I assume you purchase direct from the supplier? I 
> concur with using Amphenol connectors. 

The Wireman sells Davis RF BuryFlex RG-8, product number 103A.

https://thewireman.com/coaxp.html

Hope this helps.

73,


John K8AJS
jbas...@sssnet.com



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 unable to change passband control shift amount in SSB

[Jeff Schmidt]

Thanks, Grant, I'm not sure what you mean.

'shift lo'
short press shows 'FC 8 1.50' (expected when config:PB CTRL is set to .01)
long press works, I can set <--Norm-->, as does long press+left/right 
(NORM1/NORM2)


'hi width'
short press shows 'BW 2.80' (expected when config:PB CTRL is set to .01)
long press switches between 'I' & 'II'

Jeff

On 2/23/2016 15:48, Grant Youngman wrote:

Did you try resetting the passband to "normal" by doing a long press on the 
control?

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 23, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jeff Schmidt  wrote:

I can no longer select low cut/high cut (vs. shift/width) in LSB/USB.
A little homework reveals that this as a known side effect of changing the 
passband shift from its default.
I'm sure I must have changed the PB CTRL to .01 at some point, but I can't seem to change 
it back; a firmware reload didn't help. Moving VFO A while in config:PB CTRL gives 
"N/A".

Note that this is only manifesting itself on SSB (all other modes are set to 
the default of .05, and selecting hi/lo / shift/width works FB).

S/N 7080, old synths
versions before/after firmware reload:
5.38 1.25 2.86 2.86 1.03

--



--
73,
Jeff KC9WSJ
@ EN52wf

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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Jim Brown]

I'm not sure what you mean by "online sellers."  Do you mean 
"resellers," who take a percentage of our money for the wonderful 
"service" they provide?  Like Elecraft, Davis RF has a website and you 
can order from them direct. This means no markup from a reseller, so we 
get the best bang for our buck.


I've bought from Davis twice, and been quite pleased with their price, 
quality, and service.  In addition to BuryFlex, I bought a spool of 
their RG11, which measures just like the much more expensive Belden 8213 
RG11. The difference is advertising and markup by the dealers who sell 
Belden.  My neighbor, W6GJB, has also bought from them, and has been 
quite pleased.


Like any other good cable vendor, price will go down with quantity. I've 
bought 500 ft and 1,000 ft spools, but they will happily sell you much 
shorter lengths.


73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,2/23/2016 1:41 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:

Thank you. I have heard of Davis RF BuryFlex, but have not seen it offered by 
any of the on-line sellers. I assume you purchase direct from the supplier? I 
concur with using Amphenol connectors.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 unable to change passband control shift amount in SSB

[Grant Youngman]

Did you try resetting the passband to "normal" by doing a long press on the 
control? 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 23, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jeff Schmidt  wrote:
> 
> I can no longer select low cut/high cut (vs. shift/width) in LSB/USB.
> A little homework reveals that this as a known side effect of changing the 
> passband shift from its default.
> I'm sure I must have changed the PB CTRL to .01 at some point, but I can't 
> seem to change it back; a firmware reload didn't help. Moving VFO A while in 
> config:PB CTRL gives "N/A".
> 
> Note that this is only manifesting itself on SSB (all other modes are set to 
> the default of .05, and selecting hi/lo / shift/width works FB).
> 
> S/N 7080, old synths
> versions before/after firmware reload:
> 5.38 1.25 2.86 2.86 1.03
> 
> --
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Robert Nobis]

Dave,

Thank you. RG223 looks like reasonably good cable.  Not sure about LMR-240.  I 
have had a bad experience with the dissimilar metals (copper and aluminum) with 
the LMR cable, although it was for a repeater application outdoors.

73,



Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Feb 23, 2016, at 11:58, David Kuechenmeister  wrote:
> 
> Best possible could run into some money. You can get Pasternack to build a 36 
> in. jumper from RG223 ( double shielded and very small bend radius) for about 
> $35. You can buy the parts for about $22 and DIY. 
> http://www.pasternack.com/showProduct.aspx?SEName=uhf-male-uhf-male-rg223u-cable-assembly-pe3w00408&ProductID=
> 
> But I think LMR-240 UF is pretty good. It's got a foil and braid shield. It's 
> what I use and I crimp/solder UHF connectors that I get from Max-Gain systems.
> The sheathing on the bury flex is a little stiffer than I like to deal with.
> vy 73,Dave N4KD 
> 
>On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 12:12 PM, Robert Nobis  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3 and 
> KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and 
> interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best 
> possible isolation between the two rigs. 
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Robert Nobis]

Jim,

Thank you. I have heard of Davis RF BuryFlex, but have not seen it offered by 
any of the on-line sellers. I assume you purchase direct from the supplier? I 
concur with using Amphenol connectors. 

Thank you.

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Feb 23, 2016, at 11:10, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On Tue,2/23/2016 9:05 AM, Robert Nobis wrote:
>> I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3 and 
>> KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and 
>> interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best 
>> possible isolation between the two rigs.
> 
> Faced with exactly that issue, I chose Davis RF BuryFlex as the best 
> compromise between shielding effectiveness and flexibility. I use only 
> Amphenol 83-1SP connectors that I carefully solder myself. And I use only 
> Amphenol adapters where required (elbows, barrels, Tees). When a male 
> N-connector is required, I use the excellent Andros connectors.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3 unable to change passband control shift amount in SSB

[Jeff Schmidt]

I can no longer select low cut/high cut (vs. shift/width) in LSB/USB.
A little homework reveals that this as a known side effect of changing 
the passband shift from its default.
I'm sure I must have changed the PB CTRL to .01 at some point, but I 
can't seem to change it back; a firmware reload didn't help. Moving VFO 
A while in config:PB CTRL gives "N/A".


Note that this is only manifesting itself on SSB (all other modes are 
set to the default of .05, and selecting hi/lo / shift/width works FB).


S/N 7080, old synths
versions before/after firmware reload:
5.38 1.25 2.86 2.86 1.03

--
73,
Jeff KC9WSJ
@ EN52wf
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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[paulb]

Hello again folks

Thanks to all for the suggestions and hints to  what this problem could be.

Tests have been done at 2 locations; my own home station and here at another
property  ( work in progress as we
politely say..) about 125km south of Auckland. 

The same second harmonic garbage is heard at both places. Over the last day
I have completely swapped out
all the 80m and 40m antenna and feeder components here in the provinces. No
change.

What I now strongly suspect is the only common point at both locales;

both properties have burglar alarms installed.  Both are almost identical
well known European name brand units.
There is no detectable RF radiation from the processors or wiring.
The clincher now that I think about the last time we ran 2 stations here
without any drama
was before the alarm was commissioned here.

I have dropped the supply and backup DC to the alarm here without any
change,
Likely 3.5 meg RF is simply hammering the PIR's, cable runs are in the roof
cavity.
Can't %100 prove this without fairly major re-wiring, will leave it as is
for the meantime,

thanks again guys

cheers from ZL

Paul 
zl1ajy






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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Dave Cole]

Amp connectors, the ones you solder, and good quality RG-8X from DX
Engineering.
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



On Tue, 2016-02-23 at 10:05 -0700, Robert Nobis wrote:
> I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my
> K3 and KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for
> jumpers and interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I
> have the best possible isolation between the two rigs. 
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] KX3 2M Overheating

[n1ko]

Hi All,

I haven't used my KX3 2M option in a while, but just turned it on to work
some local FM repeaters and I'm having an issue with it overheating very
rapidly and cutting out.  I worked some HF over the weekend with no issues. 
The SWR indication is normal, and the issue occurs with multiple 2M
antennas, and in both FM, SSB and "tune" mode, and the 2M PA seems to
overheat and cut out rapidly even when I turn the transmit power down to
0.1W.

Any ideas?  This symptom seems ominous.

Tnx,

Adam, N1KO



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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 noise generated on KX3-2M

[David Anderson]

Jim,

Thanks for the correction, of course for "ground" I meant "bond", I didn't 
refer to "earth" because I don't have one, apart from the mandatory mains 
safety earth in my shack as it is upstairs and I operate VHF and above only.

I didn't use the term "pin 1 problem"  because it isn't a very descriptive teem 
unless you know the history of how that term came about which you have been 
very vocal about popularising, but it is indeed the same problem here, "common 
" ( have I used the correct term) of PCB not directly BONDED to the outer Metal 
Case.

I was rather pleased that the solution turned out to be so simple and so 
effective for me. 

Maybe Elecraft could look into making a factory mod, it isn't difficult or 
costly.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 23 Feb 2016, at 19:37, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On Tue,2/23/2016 10:26 AM, David Anderson wrote:
>> I wrote about my experience and how better grounding of the DC socket of the 
>> PX3 to the chassis reduced the radiated noise.
> 
> David,
> 
> Thanks for posting this. I've been bugging Wayne about these issues for more 
> than ten years, and he still hasn't gotten the message. This is a great 
> example of ignoring what EMC guru Henry Ott calls "the hidden schematic 
> lurking behind the ground symbol," and which is a primary cause of EMC 
> failures (RFI, hum, buzz). In the pro audio world, we call it "the Pin One 
> Problem," whereby cable shields fail to contact the shielding enclosure at 
> the point of entry, but instead go to the circuit board, finally reaching the 
> chassis via a path established by the whim of the PC board layout artist.
> 
> One VERY important correction to your post.  This connection is NOT a 
> "ground" or "earth," it is a BOND between the cable shield and the shielding 
> enclosure. Or in the case of the power connector, between DC- and the 
> shielding enclosure. The significance of this is that without that bond, RF 
> can be coupled to that cable and radiated by simple antenna action. In 
> addition, RF can be coupled from one cable shield to another, and from there 
> to an input circuit.
> 
> A connection to actual EARTH is NOT part of a solution to these problems, 
> proper bonding IS critical to the solution. Neil Muncy, ex-W3WJE (SK) put 
> this quite poetically in the tutorial workshops he did for audio 
> professionals. Neil said, "Buy a six pack of your favorite beer, grab a chair 
> and a set of good binoculars, and sit at the end of the runway of O'Hare 
> (substitute your local airport) and CALL ME COLLECT when you see an aircraft 
> take off trailing a ground wire."
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,2/23/2016 10:35 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I have not seen any issues with Belden 9258 RG8X and Amphenol (solder)
connectors.


Did you miss my recent post about the contribution of shield resistance 
to crosstalk?


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 noise generated on KX3-2M

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,2/23/2016 10:26 AM, David Anderson wrote:

I wrote about my experience and how better grounding of the DC socket of the 
PX3 to the chassis reduced the radiated noise.


David,

Thanks for posting this. I've been bugging Wayne about these issues for 
more than ten years, and he still hasn't gotten the message. This is a 
great example of ignoring what EMC guru Henry Ott calls "the hidden 
schematic lurking behind the ground symbol," and which is a primary 
cause of EMC failures (RFI, hum, buzz). In the pro audio world, we call 
it "the Pin One Problem," whereby cable shields fail to contact the 
shielding enclosure at the point of entry, but instead go to the circuit 
board, finally reaching the chassis via a path established by the whim 
of the PC board layout artist.


One VERY important correction to your post.  This connection is NOT a 
"ground" or "earth," it is a BOND between the cable shield and the 
shielding enclosure. Or in the case of the power connector, between DC- 
and the shielding enclosure. The significance of this is that without 
that bond, RF can be coupled to that cable and radiated by simple 
antenna action. In addition, RF can be coupled from one cable shield to 
another, and from there to an input circuit.


A connection to actual EARTH is NOT part of a solution to these 
problems, proper bonding IS critical to the solution. Neil Muncy, 
ex-W3WJE (SK) put this quite poetically in the tutorial workshops he did 
for audio professionals. Neil said, "Buy a six pack of your favorite 
beer, grab a chair and a set of good binoculars, and sit at the end of 
the runway of O'Hare (substitute your local airport) and CALL ME COLLECT 
when you see an aircraft take off trailing a ground wire."


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[David Kuechenmeister]

Best possible could run into some money. You can get Pasternack to build a 36 
in. jumper from RG223 ( double shielded and very small bend radius) for about 
$35. You can buy the parts for about $22 and DIY. 
http://www.pasternack.com/showProduct.aspx?SEName=uhf-male-uhf-male-rg223u-cable-assembly-pe3w00408&ProductID=

But I think LMR-240 UF is pretty good. It's got a foil and braid shield. It's 
what I use and I crimp/solder UHF connectors that I get from Max-Gain systems.
The sheathing on the bury flex is a little stiffer than I like to deal with.
vy 73,Dave N4KD 

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 12:12 PM, Robert Nobis  
wrote:
 

 I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3 and 
KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and 
interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best 
possible isolation between the two rigs. 

Thanks and 73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have not seen any issues with Belden 9258 RG8X and Amphenol (solder)
connectors.

John KK9A

FromL Robert Nobis n7rjn
Tue Feb 23 12:05:42 EST 2016

I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3
and KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and
interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best
possible isolation between the two rigs.

Thanks and 73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7rjn at nobis.net

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[Elecraft] OT -RS232 SPY program TNX

[brian]

Thanks for the replies.
N5NA was able to Elmer me with Portmon.
Turns out the most recent version left out a critical menu!
Alan helped resolve that issue.

73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 noise generated on KX3-2M

[David Anderson]

This is something I had too using an external transverter for 144 MHz with my 
KX3 Chad.

I wrote about my experience and how better grounding of the DC socket of the 
PX3 to the chassis reduced the radiated noise.

Here are the details again:

Since I purchased my PX3 I have suffered from radiated noise at 144 MHz. It 
takes the form of various buzzy spurs evenly spaced across the band and quite 
easily seen on another SDR. Even with just a power connector and no other leads 
connected I got this QRM. I was told this was normal and had to be expected 
with the switched mode regulators inside the PX3.

Putting my hand near the screen of the PX3 made the noise stronger and louder, 
but sometimes putting pressure sideways on the DC power plug would almost 
eliminate it, unfortunately as soon as I released the pressure it came back 
again. I almost considered hiring someone to hold the plug for me while I 
operated the rig ;-)

Getting totally fed up with this annoying noise, especially as one of the spurs 
was on 144.300 the SSB calling channel, I decided today to see if I could 
improve the situation, and I have.

I had already checked that the DC Jack was grounded properly to the side panel. 
However what I hadn't appreciated is that the common of the PCB is connected to 
a switch in the Jack and is not directly connected to the chassis of the Jack. 
What was happening was the barrel of the plug was connecting to the pole of 
this switch and the PCB common, but only loosely to the chassis of the Jack. 
Movement of the plug sideways with enough pressure did connect the plug better 
to chassis and resulted in the noise going away. I opened up the back of the 
PX3 and connected the chassis part of the Jack to the PCB common side of the 
jack's switch by soldering a small piece of copper EMI tape across the gap. 
This ensures that the PCB common is stoutly connected directly to chassis at 
the DC Jack. 

This has had the desired effect, no more intermittent  increases in spurs heard 
in the receiver as the leads are touched or moved, and no forest of spurs 
visible on the SDR when I turn on the PX3.

I can now listen to relaxing white noise on 144.300 now without having to put 
the notch filter on to remove the heterodyne  ;-)

The usual caveats apply, don't do this modification unless you need to, and 
only then if you know what you are doing, take anti static precautions, and 
accept that it may or will invalidate any warranty you may have with Elecraft. 


73 from David GM4JJJ



73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 23 Feb 2016, at 18:06, Chad Wasinger  wrote:
> 
> Hi Group,
> I wanted to post this question as it relates to noise generated by the PX3 
> that interferes on the KX3's 2 meter module. I seen the topic was brought up 
> a while back but I could not find a resolution to the problem. The KX3's 2 
> meter module works great and is super sensitive. However, when you connect 
> the PX3, there is a very obvious and limiting noise received on the KX3. I'm 
> narrowed it down to just 2 meter band. I use the KX3 on 2 meters for 
> primarily weak signal work, so this does create some major issues. 
> Just curious as to if there has been a solution identified to solve this 
> problem?
> Thanks,
> ChadN0YK
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,2/23/2016 9:05 AM, Robert Nobis wrote:

I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3 and 
KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and 
interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best 
possible isolation between the two rigs.


Faced with exactly that issue, I chose Davis RF BuryFlex as the best 
compromise between shielding effectiveness and flexibility. I use only 
Amphenol 83-1SP connectors that I carefully solder myself. And I use 
only Amphenol adapters where required (elbows, barrels, Tees). When a 
male N-connector is required, I use the excellent Andros connectors.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] PX3 noise generated on KX3-2M

[Chad Wasinger]

Hi Group,
I wanted to post this question as it relates to noise generated by the PX3 that 
interferes on the KX3's 2 meter module. I seen the topic was brought up a while 
back but I could not find a resolution to the problem. The KX3's 2 meter module 
works great and is super sensitive. However, when you connect the PX3, there is 
a very obvious and limiting noise received on the KX3. I'm narrowed it down to 
just 2 meter band. I use the KX3 on 2 meters for primarily weak signal work, so 
this does create some major issues. 
Just curious as to if there has been a solution identified to solve this 
problem?
Thanks,
ChadN0YK

  
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 VFO B Tuning rate?

[Wayne Burdick]

VFO B tunes at the same rate as VFO A for a given mode. Assuming you're not 
using cross-mode, then you can just change the rate for A, and the rate for B 
will be the same.

Normal tuning rate is 10 Hz per step. Tapping RATE switches to 1-Hz tuning. 
Holding KHZ switches to coarse tuning. All will apply to both VFOs.

To change the coarse tuning rate for a give mode, use MENU:VFO CRS.

To change the total steps per VFO knob rotation, use MENU:VFO CTS (128 or 256 
counts per turn).

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 23, 2016, at 9:15 AM, "Tim Cook"  wrote:

> Is there any way to change the tuning rate for VFO B?  Using the dual watch
> mode and trying to find where the dx is listening using VFO B is a little
> difficult with such a slow tuning rate. I checked the manual and reflector
> archives but cannot locate any information about changing the tuning rate,
> maybe it's fixed at the 70hz per turn for VFO B. (at least that's what my
> KX3 does). The other possibility is that I'm completely missing the boat on
> this and am just not seeing it. 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tim
> 
> NZ8J.
> 
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[Elecraft] KX3 VFO B Tuning rate?

[Tim Cook]

Is there any way to change the tuning rate for VFO B?  Using the dual watch
mode and trying to find where the dx is listening using VFO B is a little
difficult with such a slow tuning rate. I checked the manual and reflector
archives but cannot locate any information about changing the tuning rate,
maybe it's fixed at the 70hz per turn for VFO B. (at least that's what my
KX3 does). The other possibility is that I'm completely missing the boat on
this and am just not seeing it. 

 

Thanks

Tim

NZ8J.

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[Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Robert Nobis]

I am in the process of setting up my shack for SO2R operation with my K3 and 
KX3.  Just wondering what the best coax type to use for jumpers and 
interconnections within the shack?  I want to make sure I have the best 
possible isolation between the two rigs. 

Thanks and 73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


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[Elecraft] For Sale K3 Basic

[Ron Durie]

Elecraft K3/100 #7504, includes all factory upgrades.  
This is a good basic K3 that won't take much to Option up.

K3SYN3AUPG newest Synthesizer option installed.  This significantly improves
receiver performance.  

KXV3A Receive ANT IF out and XVRTR Interface board.  Seen in the pictures.
KIO3 I/O board option seen in the pictures.  

Standard KTCXO3 Reference Oscillator, 0.5PPM. 
KBPF3 General Coverage Receive module option.  

Standard 5 pole 2.7 kHz crystal filter.
KAT3 Internal automatic antenna tuner option.  

In "Like New" condition.  No scratches or blemishes.  Even all the front
panel knobs are new.  One owner nonsmoker.  It is 18 months old. 

This is the 4th K3 I have built.  When I build, these I treat every
connector pin with Caig De-Oxit Pro gold solution, to prevent pin Oxidation;
intermittent connections; easy connector insertion; and very low contact
resistance.  

Includes power cable with PowerPoles attached; Allen wrenches; PA Jumper;
and all manuals. 

Contact me off line at:  WB4OOA at gmail.com 
$2895 Shipped CONUS, or $2795 with 2 old synthesizers.  PayPal; add 3%.
Check is ok when cleared.  
Pictures available upon request. 

Ron Durie
WB4OOA Elecraft S-Line
Waxhaw, NC 28173
(704) 843-3681





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[Elecraft] Panavise and Hakko 963

[ab7r]

Still cleaning out the closet.  I have a panavise base with the small circuit 
board holder and a large circuit board holder.

$50 plus shipping.  Should fit in a medium priority mail box.

Also have an older Hakko 963.  Not pretty but it works.  $25 plus shipping.


call or text 360-320-3436

73
Greg
AB7R
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[Elecraft] and now something completely different.. the w2

[Chris Tate - N6WM]

I have installed a number of W2 watt meters in a large contest station in the 
bay area.  In general this has worked out real well, but now that I am setting 
up a second SO2R position I need to ask if anyone has either written some 
software or if it is at all possible to


1.Observe data from both sensor 1 and 2 at the same time

2.   Switch without manual intervention (pressing the button) between 
sensor 1 and 2.

If anyone has an intuitive solution to this so I don't have to move to 2 
physical watt meters it would be great.

Apologies if this has been discussed at some point in the past.


Thanks
Chris
N6WM
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft T1 tuner for sale.

[Jim Rodenkirch]

I sent two replies to ur QRZ.com e-mail address, Randy. 71.5 de Jim
Rodenkirch K9JWV



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[Elecraft] OT - NASA 4K Time-Lapse of the Sun

[David Ahrendts]

>From the NASA Solar Dynamics Observatory:
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/nasa-time-lapse-sun_us_56c77e38e4b0928f5a6bd98f

David A., KK6DA, LA



David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi John,

this PA looks quite nice and it seems to be neat design. 
Also 1.5kW out and 800W out on 6m promises a lot.

Nothing against this amplifer but I am worrying about QRQ CW operation as
unfortunately they used Panasonic relays with measured 3.8ms T/R switching.
Is it enough? How noisy it is?

It will be nice to have more informations about it first...

73 - Petr, OK1RP



-
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Please be sure to tell us all what your final
solution turns out to be.  It may help many of us
with related problems.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of John Severyn
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 3:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80
meter second harmnic how to stop


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 transverter using 14 MHz I.F. - upper freq limit ?

[David Anderson]

Thanks again Don. 

Yes I would not have the brass neck to expect the UK dealer to help if I had a 
problem after bypassing them on the purchase. 

It is unlikely I will buy anything other than a kit from the USA. So no customs 
duty, though sometimes the customs get that wrong and you need to appeal. There 
was a letter about that in Radcom this very month. 

Either that or a I get a used unit from someone in the UK. That is my preferred 
option and I have had one lead so far from a fairly local ham.

I found some interesting info on the K3 transmit phase noise on various bands 
today. 14 MHz looks like one of the best bands to use as the IF provided I can 
transmit up to about 14.4 MHz. 

http://www.ok2kkw.com/next/staronove_vyzvy.htm

and 


http://www.ok2kkw.com/xyz/om3w/transvertor_om3w_en.htm

73


David Anderson GM4JJJ


> On 23 Feb 2016, at 00:16, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> Ordering direct from Elecraft, my understanding it that if you order the 
> K3S-F you will endure both customs fees and VAT.
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[Elecraft] K1 Problem

[George Davis]

Many thanks for the replies received. My query was a bit brief as I was not 
certain if I was still a registered user of the Reflector.
A bit more information. Dave, the builder, and I were doing the Rx alignment, 
we had the intermittent fault which Dave had had before and he had associated 
it with the front panel and display board. Dave took off the front panel and 
the fault disappeared. We then carried out the alignment which went according 
to plan. Dave then refitted the front panel, the last part of which, fitting 
the two control knobs, brought back the problem. 
He is now going to follow the advice received and reflow soldered joints.

George.  G3ICO.


Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,2/22/2016 11:31 PM, David Cutter wrote:
I understand that small ferrites are easily overloaded and become 
non-linear generating harmonics and injecting a signal back into the 
wire from whence they came. 


That's theoretically possible, but VERY VERY VERY unlikely.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[John Severyn]

Don't forget rain gutters and downspouts that may be slightly corroded 
at the joints, forming a diode.

They make nice frequency doublers due to the non-linear element.
John  AF6QO

On 2/22/2016 11:58 PM, Ian White wrote:

I feel sure that Jim and W3LPL are right. That rasping note is a big,
big clue that some *other* electronic device is also involved -
something else, in addition to your two K3s.

That "unknown third party" device is what you need to find. Begin by
switching off power to whole sections of the house,  and then go around
methodically unplugging individual devices. Murphy says: it's something
of yours, and it's right there in the shack.


73 from Ian GM3SEK


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Jim Brown
Sent: 23 February 2016 04:42
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how

to

stop

When I posted on this issue to another list, W3LPL responded that it's
fairly common for harmonics with this sort of characteristic to be
generated in active electronics like switching power supplies.  Sort of
identifying which is the culprit and choking every cable connected to
it, there's no solution.

73, Jim K9YC

On Mon,2/22/2016 8:34 PM, paulb wrote:

For what ever reason the harmonic is still very present..darn..
oddly has a rasping note not pure carrier.

A close ham about 400 meters away can also hear the 2nd hamonnic,
band pass in or out makes little change.

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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[Ian White]

I feel sure that Jim and W3LPL are right. That rasping note is a big,
big clue that some *other* electronic device is also involved -
something else, in addition to your two K3s.

That "unknown third party" device is what you need to find. Begin by
switching off power to whole sections of the house,  and then go around
methodically unplugging individual devices. Murphy says: it's something
of yours, and it's right there in the shack.


73 from Ian GM3SEK

>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>Jim Brown
>Sent: 23 February 2016 04:42
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how
to
>stop
>
>When I posted on this issue to another list, W3LPL responded that it's
>fairly common for harmonics with this sort of characteristic to be
>generated in active electronics like switching power supplies.  Sort of
>identifying which is the culprit and choking every cable connected to
>it, there's no solution.
>
>73, Jim K9YC
>
>On Mon,2/22/2016 8:34 PM, paulb wrote:
>> For what ever reason the harmonic is still very present..darn..
>> oddly has a rasping note not pure carrier.
>>
>> A close ham about 400 meters away can also hear the 2nd hamonnic,
>> band pass in or out makes little change.
>
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