Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

[Gordon LaPoint]

Jack,
    I'm the original poster.  I may be misstating what I want to 
accomplish.
At the remote station location I want the KPA500 Remote software to 
start in host mode, with connection to the KPA500 hardware and the 
KAT500 remote software to also start in host mode connected to the hardware.
Then I can start the software from my laptop and connect to the remote 
and see the KAT500 and KPA500.
I can have the software start at the hardware site, but how do I get it 
to automatically connect to the hardware so the HOST mode is working?


Remote site is where the hardware is located, KPA500, KAT500, Radio.
Control site is where I am running the station from.
I can use something like TeamViewer to log into the Control site and 
click on the "Host" button on the running software, but that is what I 
want to avoid.


I use RCForb for normal operation, but that only controls the radio and 
the KPA500, it does not properly control the KAT500.
And when I'm doing a contest using WriteLog Remote I don't have RCForb 
running so then I need the KPA500 remote to run the amp.


Gordon - N1MGO

On 6/9/2020 17:42 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft wrote:

Are you referring to front or rear panel power? The K3 Utility can certainly 
power on a KPA500 if the rear panel switch is on. If that switch is off, it 
must be turned on before the front panel switch (or remote power-on) works. Now 
if you have a big relay in the power line to the KPA, it needs to be enabled as 
well.

Setting up remote stations is a skill. There are many ways to do it, and each 
need to be evaluated to get it done the way _you_ want.

By the way, to the original poster - if you are using a Mac, just add the two utilities 
to the user’s "Login Items” list in the User’s & Groups System Preferences 
pane. You just have to make sure that user is started up when the system powers up. 
There are other ways to do this, but by far that is the easiest.

73!
Jack, W6FB



On Jun 9, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Lyn Norstad  wrote:

If you're running Windows, yes I know how to do that.  But keep in mind that 
the KPA Utility will not connect to the KPA500 unless the amp is first powered 
on.

To have the programs start on boot, just drag them into the Windows "Startup" 
folder (I am on Windows 7).

In Windows 10, search "Startup Apps."

73
Lyn, W0LEN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net ] 
On Behalf Of Gordon LaPoint
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 1:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

Can these remote software's be in host mode on startup?  I run a remote
and would like to have them connect to the hardware and be in host mode
on boot of the computer.  Right now I just log on remotely and start
each one as needed.

Thanks,

Gordon - N1MGO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 0n motorboat

[Erik B]

The original poster wants something aesthetically acceptable but performing
as well as possible within those limits, whatever they might be. He didn't
say it has to be a solution available over the counter. He doesn't say that
experimentation is unacceptable. So I suggest that he first construct a
temporary solution with a liberal dose of cut-and-try. That allows him to
vary size and location parameters that push the envelope to (the limits of)
size and xyl acceptability. Then construct a permanent version that looks
pretty.  What kind of antenna? Start with a vertical with counterpoise, and
give it as many variable parameters as possible. Say we start with the tiny
vertical dipole consisting of two hamsticks that someone already suggested.
Allow physical asymmetry as in making the lower half a shorter length
compared to the  upper, while retaining the symmetry in electrical length
(by means of different loading). Consider making the lower half horizontal.
Such L-shaped antennas work quite well (with some directivity), at least on
dry land. Consider two of the horizontal counterpoises for symmetry. Take
time to experiment and see what works best for you. Make the vertical
portion as tall as allowed by the xyl. Of course you need to be able to vary
the load inductors for both portions.  The counterpoise(s) can be hinged to
stay vertical close to the vertical portion when not in use, and floded down
like fishing rods to horizontal position for actual use. How to maintain the
electrical symmetry? Actually, you don't need to. You let the (L-shaped)
dipole become Off-Center-Fed, which gives you another parameter to play
with. The popular Buddipole design uses this to help with impedance
matching. You should of course use a common mode choke in any case to
prevent RF from flowing on the outside of the coax. As you get more off
(electrical) center, the need for choking will get more pronounced, until
you get really far off center, such that you have essentially an end-fed
antenna with just a tiny counterpoise. Such antennas don't need as much
common mode choking as do some of the other feed locations, but still need
some. As you vary the off-center-ishness, the feed impedance will vary. As
already mentioned, this can be used to help matching, but if you go far off
center you will need to add a matching device. A popular choice would be a
wideband ferrite-cored transformer. As you vary lengths and loading
inductances you can measure feed impedance with an analyzer, going for
resonance and most pleasing dimensions along with resonance. Then look at
the resistive impedance and consider whether a transformer is needed. 

73,
Erik K7TV


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 suddenly shut down on FT8 TX

[Yoshida Akira]

Hi all

Maybe my problem looks solved. Referring to suggestions I checked all 
coax cables.
I found a cable with bad poor contact at both end plugs. K3 see very 
high SWR instantaneously

and it shout down.
I have not seen the problem for several hours since bad cable was replaced.

Thanks again for suggestions.

73


On 2020/06/10 7:15, Yoshida Akira wrote:

Hi all

Thanks for more suggestions, however I am not happy.
I noticed this a several times yesterday when transmitting FT8 with 50W.

I checked DX cable and connectors. It looks OK. I look at voltage, 
current and PA Temp
with internal meter. I do not notice any significant jump just before 
shut down.


It is better for me to send K3/100 to JA dealer who checked 
everything, sometimes

replaced parts before.

BTW: my K3/100 s/n 00060  arrived on 2007/12   I still like this radio 
best.


Thanks

73


On 2020/06/09 11:33, Yoshida Akira wrote:

Hi all

Thanks for suggestions. All look OK to me.

Power supply is Powerwerx ss-30DV. I do not use Powerpole connector
in the front panel, instead use terminal in the back panel.

I use this power supply for another TRX also and have never noticed 
the problem.


73

On 2020/06/09 9:00, Yoshida Akira wrote:

Hi all

I have never seen this for many years, however I recently noticed twice
when transmitting FT8 with 100W. No alarm and error message.
When I simply push POWER button in front panel then it turns ON again.

PA temp, DC voltage and DC current looks good. I do not believe RFI
cause this problem.

Any idea ?


--
73 de aki
JA1NLX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[john]

Where is this company?  I dd not see any information about them on the  
website.


John KK9A



Michael Chowning N8TTR wrote:

https://advancedhfsolutions.com

   Mike, N8TTR

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[Elecraft] Codec on the K3s

[gt0hof]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Probably Nigeria.

Here is a patent for  something:


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
.
On 10/06/2020 15:18, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
Where is this company?  I dd not see any information about them on the 
website.


John KK9A



Michael Chowning N8TTR wrote:

https://advancedhfsolutions.com

    Mike, N8TTR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Bill Steffey NY9H]

googling shows alot of legal activity,, maybe charleston, 
SC   too much reading for me .


On 6/10/2020 8:23 AM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:

Probably Nigeria.

Here is a patent for  something:


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
.
On 10/06/2020 15:18, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
Where is this company?  I dd not see any information about them on 
the website.


John KK9A



Michael Chowning N8TTR wrote:

https://advancedhfsolutions.com

    Mike, N8TTR

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--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Donald Wines]

Apparently they are a two person company located in Oakwood, TX a small
town of about 3000 good folk located about an 1-1/2 hours southeast of my
QTH in Bullard, TX.
You can check them out here
https://www.corporationwiki.com/p/2s9ylr/advanced-hf-solutions-inc.
The price on this thing is almost $10K.

Don,
K5DW


On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 7:19 AM  wrote:

> Where is this company?  I dd not see any information about them on the
> website.
>
> John KK9A
>
>
>
> Michael Chowning N8TTR wrote:
>
> https://advancedhfsolutions.com
>
> Mike, N8TTR
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up Question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Since the input is clearly marked MONO, a tip-sleeve is the correct plug. If 
one uses a TRS plug, the ring should be connected to the sleeve inside the 
plug. 

Using a mike which has an XLR, pin 2 should connect to the Tip, pin 3 to the 
sleeve, and the shield only connects to XLR pin 1 at the mike.  It does not 
connect to the sleeve at the radio. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 10:20 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> If yuh ou use a TRS plug, don’t use the “ring” for anything. 
> 
> Extending the pin 1 wire out of the connector and connecting to the radio 
> “Ground” lug is also tecvonended in some circles. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2020, at 4:51 PM, Tony  wrote:
>> 
>> All:
>> 
>> I have a follow-up question regarding balanced mics and unbalanced 
>> connections. I'm about to connect a balanced dynamic microphone (Heil 
>> PR-781) to the rear mic input on my K3S which has a 1/8" unbalanced mono 
>> connection.
>> 
>> One recommendation was to connect XLR pin #2 mic (+) to the tip of the 1/8" 
>> jack and pin #3 mic (-) to the sleeve. In this case, pin #1 or ground is 
>> left floating with no connection. A 1/8" mono jack was recommended for this 
>> setup.
>> 
>> The other recommendation was to connect pin #2 to the tip and pin #1 and #3 
>> to the sleeve of the 1/8" jack. It was also suggested that I can use either 
>> a 1/8" mono or a stereo TRS jack in both cases.
>> 
>> So which is correct?
>> 
>> Tony -K2MO
>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Grant Youngman]

So this flute thing is essentially a bi-cone EH antenna.  Somehow the cosine 
derived flute shape helps in satisfying the requirements of the Poynting 
Theorem, to align the E-H fields in time phase, and on and on.

One of the more controversial antenna types, judging by the range of opinions 
from  “it must be magic”, to "it’s the coax that actually radiates", to “it 
works and is simply misunderstood by people too set in their Hertzian thinking 
to understand the new and brilliant concept”, and so forth.  I don’t know 
enough to know.  I do know it wouldn’t be worth ten grand to find out :-)

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Donald Wines  wrote:
> 
> Apparently they are a two person company located in Oakwood, TX a small
> town of about 3000 good folk located about an 1-1/2 hours southeast of my
> QTH in Bullard, TX.
> You can check them out here
> https://www.corporationwiki.com/p/2s9ylr/advanced-hf-solutions-inc.
> The price on this thing is almost $10K.
> 
> Don,
> K5DW
> 
> 
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 7:19 AM  wrote:
> 
>> Where is this company?  I dd not see any information about them on the
>> website.
>> 
>> John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting

[E.H. Russell]

Jim,

 

Interesting results, especially the dramatic difference in the FTDX5000 after 
the firmware update. The K3 looks great. Hopefully the K4 will be at least as 
good.

 

Ed / w2rf

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 3:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting

 

On 6/9/2020 11:07 AM, Al Lorona wrote:

> The reduction in the sideband levels (what some folks here called 'clicks'... 
> not sure that's a good name for this) varies depending on where you measure 
> it, but in general the sidebands will drop anywhere from 0 to 12 dB-- 
> sometimes less, sometimes more--  when you go from 2 msec to 8 msec rise/fall 
> times. For instance, arbitrarily choosing an offset of 500 Hz from the 
> carrier, the sideband drops by 11 dB for the longer rise time. That turns out 
> to be a fairly typical value. And by the way, in general the sigmoid does a 
> better job than a raised cosine.

 

 

 

I've not looked at the math, but I've measured more than a half dozen radios, 
most with variable time constant shaping, and Elecraft with their fixed 
sigmoidal shaping. The data is here.

 

  
http://k9yc.com/P3_Spectrum_Measurements.pdf

 

A K3 at 25W (driving a KPA500 to full power) is 50 dB down 230 Hz either side 
of the signal, 60 dB down at 305 Hz. At 40W driving a legal limit tube amp (Ten 
Tec Titan) sidebands at the power amp output are 50 dB down at 235 Hz, 60 dB 
down at 335 Hz.

 

A neighbor's FT1000 Mark V Field was 50 dB down at 665 Hz.

 

Another neighbor's FTDX5000 set for 6 msec was 50 dB down at 410 Hz, 60 dB down 
at 1.05 kHz before the firmware update. It improved to -50 dB at

310 Hz and -60 at 535 Hz after the update.

 

73, Jim K9YC

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

[Mike - W5JR]

Search for a recent email (a month or two ago) on this very topic from 
Warren/KD4Z. He’s written a Windows script that does this very thing, available 
at his github. Put it in your Windows Startup directory. Works great. Written 
for KAT500, KPA500 and KPA1500, up to two instances, for those remote SO2R 
stations. You edit the script with a few particulars of your station, all 
described within the script. 


tnx
Mike / W5JR
Alpharetta GA


> On Jun 10, 2020, at 04:26, Gordon LaPoint  wrote:
> 
> Jack,
> I'm the original poster.  I may be misstating what I want to accomplish.
> At the remote station location I want the KPA500 Remote software to start in 
> host mode, with connection to the KPA500 hardware and the KAT500 remote 
> software to also start in host mode connected to the hardware.
> Then I can start the software from my laptop and connect to the remote and 
> see the KAT500 and KPA500.
> I can have the software start at the hardware site, but how do I get it to 
> automatically connect to the hardware so the HOST mode is working?
> 
> Remote site is where the hardware is located, KPA500, KAT500, Radio.
> Control site is where I am running the station from.
> I can use something like TeamViewer to log into the Control site and click on 
> the "Host" button on the running software, but that is what I want to avoid.
> 
> I use RCForb for normal operation, but that only controls the radio and the 
> KPA500, it does not properly control the KAT500.
> And when I'm doing a contest using WriteLog Remote I don't have RCForb 
> running so then I need the KPA500 remote to run the amp.
> 
> Gordon - N1MGO
> 
>> On 6/9/2020 17:42 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft wrote:
>> Are you referring to front or rear panel power? The K3 Utility can certainly 
>> power on a KPA500 if the rear panel switch is on. If that switch is off, it 
>> must be turned on before the front panel switch (or remote power-on) works. 
>> Now if you have a big relay in the power line to the KPA, it needs to be 
>> enabled as well.
>> 
>> Setting up remote stations is a skill. There are many ways to do it, and 
>> each need to be evaluated to get it done the way _you_ want.
>> 
>> By the way, to the original poster - if you are using a Mac, just add the 
>> two utilities to the user’s "Login Items” list in the User’s & Groups System 
>> Preferences pane. You just have to make sure that user is started up when 
>> the system powers up. There are other ways to do this, but by far that is 
>> the easiest.
>> 
>> 73!
>> Jack, W6FB
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 9, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Lyn Norstad  wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you're running Windows, yes I know how to do that.  But keep in mind 
>>> that the KPA Utility will not connect to the KPA500 unless the amp is first 
>>> powered on.
>>> 
>>> To have the programs start on boot, just drag them into the Windows 
>>> "Startup" folder (I am on Windows 7).
>>> 
>>> In Windows 10, search "Startup Apps."
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> Lyn, W0LEN
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>>>  
>>> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>>> ] On Behalf Of Gordon LaPoint
>>> Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 1:45 PM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software
>>> 
>>> Can these remote software's be in host mode on startup?  I run a remote
>>> and would like to have them connect to the hardware and be in host mode
>>> on boot of the computer.  Right now I just log on remotely and start
>>> each one as needed.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Gordon - N1MGO
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Bill Steffey NY9H]

looks like they are hunting for military business... the element 
looks like one of those on the big Chernobyl over the horizon antenna... 
broadband.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjoPy6drGBQ



bill

On 6/10/2020 9:02 AM, Donald Wines wrote:

Apparently they are a two person company located in Oakwood, TX a small
town of about 3000 good folk located about an 1-1/2 hours southeast of my
QTH in Bullard, TX.
You can check them out here
https://www.corporationwiki.com/p/2s9ylr/advanced-hf-solutions-inc.
The price on this thing is almost $10K.

Don,
K5DW


On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 7:19 AM  wrote:


Where is this company?  I dd not see any information about them on the
website.

John KK9A



Michael Chowning N8TTR wrote:

https://advancedhfsolutions.com

 Mike, N8TTR

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up Question

[Gil Drynan]

The PR-781 does not like the DC bias supplies from many newer ham radios.
A capacitor in series with one side of the balanced line. Heil offers a
specialized cable for three pin XLR mike to the mike jack on front of
different brands of transceivers. Contains the capacitor as required.
Works for me.

Gil  W7GIL




> All:
>
> I have a follow-up question regarding balanced mics and unbalanced
> connections. I'm about to connect a balanced dynamic microphone (Heil
> PR-781) to the rear mic input on my K3S which has a 1/8" unbalanced mono
> connection.
>
> One recommendation was to connect XLR pin #2 mic (+) to the tip of the
> 1/8" jack and pin #3 mic (-) to the sleeve. In this case, pin #1 or
> ground is left floating with no connection. A 1/8" mono jack was
> recommended for this setup.
>
> The other recommendation was to connect pin #2 to the tip and pin #1 and
> #3 to the sleeve of the 1/8" jack. It was also suggested that I can use
> either a 1/8" mono or a stereo TRS jack in both cases.
>
> So which is correct?
>
> Tony -K2MO
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 on motorboat

[Frank C Richards]

As with most everything on a boat, antenna and counterpoise systems
are a compromise. You have to work with what you have.
I agree that an elevated feedpoint is not the best, but on a fishing trawler
support rigging for the outriggers moves up and down. With the
antenna mounted on the mast it is out of harm's way( except for lighting ).
There are all kinds of scenarios on work boats that have to be taken into
account when installing a system and there will be compromises.
Commercial and most other users don't have the luxury as, Hams do,
to experiment and tweak systems. They just want the system to work.
There are accepted practices that are proven to work well and if followed
they will perform.
I think that if you visit a yacht basin or commercial boat dock that you
will see that the vertical is the antenna of choice unless the craft is
large
enough to support a longwire but will probably also have a vertical.
Vertical antennas built for marine use,if properly installed on a yacht
will look just fine and be no more distracting than radar, nav system,
TV or Sat phone antennas.
It's been a pleasure conversing with everyone, but I have to bow out.
I have to travel and won't have internet for a while so I will say 73's
to all. Please stay safe and be not afraid.
Frank KB4VU

.
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Re: [Elecraft] Two instances of WSJT on K3s with SubRX?

[Dave B via Elecraft]

A question best asked on the WSJTx support list, where the developers
hang out..

    https://wsjtx.groups.io/g/main

There are plenty of people there using K3's etc.

In any case, it may be more of a Hamlib issue, than WSJTx, and there is
"lots" of work going on at the moment with Hamlib.

73.

Dave G0WBX.


On 09/06/2020 21:42, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Re: [Elecraft] Two instances of WSJT on K3s with SubRX?

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up, Question

[Dave B via Elecraft]

Both would work.

Sketch out the equivalent circuit and you'll see why.

As to using a TRS or TS 1/8th (3.5mm) plug, you'll have to consult the
radio's manual to see exactly what's connected to the tip and ring, and
if the sleeve is actually connected directly to the chassis, not via a
convoluted PCB ground trace.

Twisted pair's help cancel out hum and interference pickup, /only/ if
the input to the amp, mixer, or in this case the radio, is itself very
well balanced around "ground/chassis" etc.   As soon as you use it like
an unbalanced system, such advantages are lost.

But yes re the XLR Pin 1, that is a shield that should be connected to
the radio's chassis in either case.  Irrespective of what you do with
pin's 2 and 3...

73.

Dave G0WBX.


On 10/06/2020 00:27, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> I have a follow-up question regarding balanced mics and unbalanced 
> connections. I'm about to connect a balanced dynamic microphone (Heil 
> PR-781) to the rear mic input on my K3S which has a 1/8" unbalanced mono 
> connection.
>
> One recommendation was to connect XLR pin #2 mic (+) to the tip of the 
> 1/8" jack and pin #3 mic (-) to the sleeve. In this case, pin #1 or 
> ground is left floating with no connection. A 1/8" mono jack was 
> recommended for this setup.
>
> The other recommendation was to connect pin #2 to the tip and pin #1 and 
> #3 to the sleeve of the 1/8" jack. It was also suggested that I can use 
> either a 1/8" mono or a stereo TRS jack in both cases.
>
> So which is correct?
>
> Tony -K2MO

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up Question

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> A capacitor in series with one side of the balanced line.

First, a dynamic mic element as is found in the PR-781 is neither
balanced nor unbalanced.  That is determined by the external
connections (the input circuit to which the mic element is
connected).  I know of no current amateur transceiver that has a
truly *balanced* microphone input.  However, professional and
semiprofessional audio mixers (as well as "effects processors",
microphone equalizers and mic preamps) often have balanced
microphone inputs.

Second, a capacitor is not needed with the Elecraft K3/K3S - one
simply needs to *TURN OFF BIAS* (MENU:MIC SEL and tap #2).

The capacitor is only required for "Brand I" radios in which one
can not turn off the bias.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2020-06-10 10:05 AM, Gil Drynan wrote:


The PR-781 does not like the DC bias supplies from many newer ham radios.
A capacitor in series with one side of the balanced line. Heil offers a
specialized cable for three pin XLR mike to the mike jack on front of
different brands of transceivers. Contains the capacitor as required.
Works for me.

Gil  W7GIL





All:

I have a follow-up question regarding balanced mics and unbalanced
connections. I'm about to connect a balanced dynamic microphone (Heil
PR-781) to the rear mic input on my K3S which has a 1/8" unbalanced mono
connection.

One recommendation was to connect XLR pin #2 mic (+) to the tip of the
1/8" jack and pin #3 mic (-) to the sleeve. In this case, pin #1 or
ground is left floating with no connection. A 1/8" mono jack was
recommended for this setup.

The other recommendation was to connect pin #2 to the tip and pin #1 and
#3 to the sleeve of the 1/8" jack. It was also suggested that I can use
either a 1/8" mono or a stereo TRS jack in both cases.

So which is correct?

Tony -K2MO



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

[Gordon LaPoint]

Mike,
    Thanks!  The batch file that Warren put on github is just what I 
was looking for!

Gordon - N1MGO
On 6/10/2020 9:41 AM, Mike - W5JR wrote:

Search for a recent email (a month or two ago) on this very topic from 
Warren/KD4Z. He’s written a Windows script that does this very thing, available 
at his github. Put it in your Windows Startup directory. Works great. Written 
for KAT500, KPA500 and KPA1500, up to two instances, for those remote SO2R 
stations. You edit the script with a few particulars of your station, all 
described within the script.


tnx
Mike / W5JR
Alpharetta GA



On Jun 10, 2020, at 04:26, Gordon LaPoint  wrote:

Jack,
 I'm the original poster.  I may be misstating what I want to accomplish.
At the remote station location I want the KPA500 Remote software to start in 
host mode, with connection to the KPA500 hardware and the KAT500 remote 
software to also start in host mode connected to the hardware.
Then I can start the software from my laptop and connect to the remote and see 
the KAT500 and KPA500.
I can have the software start at the hardware site, but how do I get it to 
automatically connect to the hardware so the HOST mode is working?

Remote site is where the hardware is located, KPA500, KAT500, Radio.
Control site is where I am running the station from.
I can use something like TeamViewer to log into the Control site and click on the 
"Host" button on the running software, but that is what I want to avoid.

I use RCForb for normal operation, but that only controls the radio and the 
KPA500, it does not properly control the KAT500.
And when I'm doing a contest using WriteLog Remote I don't have RCForb running 
so then I need the KPA500 remote to run the amp.

Gordon - N1MGO


On 6/9/2020 17:42 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft wrote:
Are you referring to front or rear panel power? The K3 Utility can certainly 
power on a KPA500 if the rear panel switch is on. If that switch is off, it 
must be turned on before the front panel switch (or remote power-on) works. Now 
if you have a big relay in the power line to the KPA, it needs to be enabled as 
well.

Setting up remote stations is a skill. There are many ways to do it, and each 
need to be evaluated to get it done the way _you_ want.

By the way, to the original poster - if you are using a Mac, just add the two utilities 
to the user’s "Login Items” list in the User’s & Groups System Preferences 
pane. You just have to make sure that user is started up when the system powers up. 
There are other ways to do this, but by far that is the easiest.

73!
Jack, W6FB



On Jun 9, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Lyn Norstad  wrote:

If you're running Windows, yes I know how to do that.  But keep in mind that 
the KPA Utility will not connect to the KPA500 unless the amp is first powered 
on.

To have the programs start on boot, just drag them into the Windows "Startup" 
folder (I am on Windows 7).

In Windows 10, search "Startup Apps."

73
Lyn, W0LEN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net ] 
On Behalf Of Gordon LaPoint
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 1:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

Can these remote software's be in host mode on startup?  I run a remote
and would like to have them connect to the hardware and be in host mode
on boot of the computer.  Right now I just log on remotely and start
each one as needed.

Thanks,

Gordon - N1MGO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Robert Sands]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Phil Kane]

On 6/9/2020 4:46 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

> Hmmm ... "Isotropic spherical?"  "Proven to broadcast over 4,000 miles
> with 1 watt?"  Actually, it looks like one of the driven elements of the
> Russian Duga ["Woodpecker"] antenna.  $6K+ seems a little steep.

If it lives up to its claims, I would consider it as a replacement for
my ineffective mag-loop  -- until I saw the $6K+ price tag.  I have to
look over my shoulder (or my checkbook's shoulder) to even scrape up 500
bucks to replace my standby batteries

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[w4sc]

How much doppler shift should be expected?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: W2xj
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
To: w4sc
Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

the problem with WWV is doppler shift. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:
> 
> I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM the 
> 10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of test 
> equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, all the 
> better,  
> 
> Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
> accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, GPS 
> locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.
> 
> Ben W4SC
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Barry]

I strongly disagree. How many compromises were made to pull this off. 
You may use the laws of physics and math to design something, but unlike 
physics or math, engineering is not as precise. that means there are 
judgment calls made by design engineers. Physicists make judgemet call 
also, but only in data interpretation and not design. Sorry you couldn't 
be more wrong.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Jim Brown" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 6/10/2020 1:53:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.


On 6/9/2020 3:54 PM, Barry wrote:

EE is an art and not science


That is NOT even slightly true. ART did not put us on the moon or build the 
Mars rovers. Engineering is the thoughtful application of scientific principles 
and knowledge to solve practical problems. Without science as a base, it's 
little more than the infinite number of monkeys and typewriters producing 
Shakespeare. Nearly all practical designs involve some compromises. Great 
engineering is selecting (sometimes innovating) those solutions which work well 
for the particular problem at hand.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Phil Hystad via Elecraft]

The problem with this argument is the dichotomy of choice.  The contrast 
between art and science was introduced into philosophical discussion several 
hundred years ago.

Today, the discussion might better be divided into three categories:  Art, 
Engineering, Science with the recognition that many things real or imagined may 
include parts from all.



> On Jun 10, 2020, at 10:15 AM, Barry  wrote:
> 
> I strongly disagree. How many compromises were made to pull this off. You may 
> use the laws of physics and math to design something, but unlike physics or 
> math, engineering is not as precise. that means there are judgment calls made 
> by design engineers. Physicists make judgemet call also, but only in data 
> interpretation and not design. Sorry you couldn't be more wrong.
> 
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Jim Brown" 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 6/10/2020 1:53:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.
> 
>> On 6/9/2020 3:54 PM, Barry wrote:
>>> EE is an art and not science
>> 
>> That is NOT even slightly true. ART did not put us on the moon or build the 
>> Mars rovers. Engineering is the thoughtful application of scientific 
>> principles and knowledge to solve practical problems. Without science as a 
>> base, it's little more than the infinite number of monkeys and typewriters 
>> producing Shakespeare. Nearly all practical designs involve some 
>> compromises. Great engineering is selecting (sometimes innovating) those 
>> solutions which work well for the particular problem at hand.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
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[Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[Ray Albers]

I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.

If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.

So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.

 I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.

I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
could bring it to life. Nada.

I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.

Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
great!

Thanks for listening.

73
Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

In referencing TF.NIST.GOV on page 251, I find it stated;

"When high accuracy is not required, probably and fastest way of 
comparing the frequency of an oscillator to a broadcast standard is the 
familiar heterodyne or zero beat method. "


And then on page 253, I find it stated;

" Usually, however, it is difficult to adjust an oscillator to exactly 
zero beat with an HF carrier beyond the ground wave range of the 
transmitter.  The problem arises from rapid fluctuations in the received 
signal strength and from propagation flutter in the received frequency."


References are: THE USES AND LIMITATION OF HF STANDARD BROADCAST FOR 
TIME AND FREQUENCY COMPARISON.  John T. Stanley, NIST.


As I indicated earlier, a frequency accuracy of +/- 1 Hz for ham radio 
purposes is adequate.  Likewise for time accuracy +/- 0.1 second is 
adequate.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/10/2020 11:52 AM, w4sc wrote:

How much doppler shift should be expected?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: W2xj
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
To: w4sc
Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

the problem with WWV is doppler shift.

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:

I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM the 
10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of test 
equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, all the 
better,

Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, GPS 
locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.

Ben W4SC


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Fred Jensen]

Speaking somewhat broadly, Science is basically a quest for 
understanding of the physical world we live in.  Engineering is the 
science of intelligent tradeoffs in a quest to create "stuff" using the 
science and technology.  Many of the tradeoffs are technical.  Others 
are economic, ergonomic, environmental, legal, moral, ethical, and 
political among others. Elecraft radios do not allow user adjustment of 
keying waveshape and timing which is a tradeoff.  Guaranteed optimal 
on-air signal quality vs maximum user configurability with attendant 
possibility of crummy signals.


About 30 min north of our previous home in Auburn CA, you will find 
Grass Valley CA, epicenter of hard rock gold mining in the early 20th 
century.  The mines interconnect, are nearly a mile deep, have hundreds 
of miles of tunnels, still harbor a huge store of gold ... and are 
filled with water.  A visiting friend observed that, with today's 
engineering and technology and the current price of gold, one would 
expect that de-watering the mine shafts and recovering the gold would be 
very profitable but no one is doing it.  At $1,100/oz, that may be 
true.  There is a tradeoff however ... "Where do you put the water?"  It 
is highly and persistently toxic to people, wildlife, and vegetation, 
and there is a whole lot of it in the mines [a tradeoff similar to that 
faced by the nuclear power industry as well].  Don't hold your breath 
for a 21st century gold rush in N. California.


It could be said that balancing all of those tradeoffs includes elements 
of art, I really don't know.  I do know that being successful in the 
tradeoffs is much harder than the pure science may appear at first 
glance. [:=)


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/9/2020 10:53 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/9/2020 3:54 PM, Barry wrote:

EE is an art and not science


That is NOT even slightly true. ART did not put us on the moon or 
build the Mars rovers. Engineering is the thoughtful application of 
scientific principles and knowledge to solve practical problems. 
Without science as a base, it's little more than the infinite number 
of monkeys and typewriters producing Shakespeare. Nearly all practical 
designs involve some compromises. Great engineering is selecting 
(sometimes innovating) those solutions which work well for the 
particular problem at hand.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[hawley, charles j jr]

Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat economically 

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:
> 
> I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
> seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
> even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
> factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.
> 
> If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
> the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
> some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
> reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
> connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
> antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
> with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
> CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
> install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.
> 
> So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
> diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
> QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.
> 
> I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
> then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
> transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
> never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
> initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
> 20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.
> 
> I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
> re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
> while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
> could bring it to life. Nada.
> 
> I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
> to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
> feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.
> 
> Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
> great!
> 
> Thanks for listening.
> 
> 73
> Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] Two instances of WSJT on K3s with SubRX?

[Jim Miller]

I have it working fine now. Thanks for all the suggestions!

jim ab3cv

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 4:23 PM Jim Miller  wrote:

> Has anyone run two instances of WSJT on a single K3s with the SubRX so as
> to be able to monitor both 50.323 and 50.313?
>
> Of course I'll only be able to transmit on the instance that has the Main
> RX but it would be handy to be able to see both.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim ab3cv
>
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Wake On Lan not working

[Peter Dougherty]

Wake On LAN is not functioning on my KPA-1500 using the remote software. I
have the Wake On Lan and DHCP boxes checked in the Network tab in the
configuration settings within the KPA1500 Utility program, and the LAN
settings (including the IP address) are correct. 

 
The only condition in which the remote software (v1.27) can find the KPA1500
is when the amp is manually powered on, after which it operates fine. Once I
power down the amp there is no condition in which I can reattach the
software remotely-I must power the amp on from the front panel button. In
addition to this, just pressing the "connect" button won't do it either. I
have to press the TEST button, wait until it finds the amp, then press
CONNECT and it connects normally.

 

At the moment this isn't a deal breaker, but I intend to remote the amp next
week to a relatively inaccessible space in the basement so I'd like to get
this solved as soon as possible. 

 

As a side issue, the DHCP IP address had changed at some point, and the
remote software did NOT pick up the change. I had to hunt in my router for
the MAC address and enter the new IPV4 address manually into the remote
software.


-
Please and thanks.

Peter, W2IRT

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[Elecraft] Fwd: K3 on motorboat.

[Phil Kane]

On 6/9/2020 10:53 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

>> EE is an art and not science
> 
> That is NOT even slightly true. ART did not put us on the moon or build
> the Mars rovers. Engineering is the thoughtful application of scientific
> principles and knowledge to solve practical problems. Without science as
> a base, it's little more than the infinite number of monkeys and
> typewriters producing Shakespeare. Nearly all practical designs involve
> some compromises. Great engineering is selecting (sometimes innovating)
> those solutions which work well for the particular problem at hand.

There is an ongoing  discussion group of the National Society of
Professional Engineers postulating over the differences between
curricula in Engineering (more emphasis on why it works) and Engineering
Technology (more emphasis on how it works).  I refuse to get into that
"food fight".  I had - and still have to some extent - no problem
getting my hands dirty (to the limit of my disabilities, that is).

Philip M. Kane  Esq / P.E. - K2ASP
VP - General Counsel & Executive Engineer
CSI Telecommunications, Inc. - Consulting Engineers
San Francisco, CA - Beaverton, OR

(Main Office moving to Hamilton Landing, Novato, CA)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[W2xj]

adequate is not perfect. YMMV

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:07 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> In referencing TF.NIST.GOV on page 251, I find it stated;
> 
> "When high accuracy is not required, probably and fastest way of comparing 
> the frequency of an oscillator to a broadcast standard is the familiar 
> heterodyne or zero beat method. "
> 
> And then on page 253, I find it stated;
> 
> " Usually, however, it is difficult to adjust an oscillator to exactly zero 
> beat with an HF carrier beyond the ground wave range of the transmitter.  The 
> problem arises from rapid fluctuations in the received signal strength and 
> from propagation flutter in the received frequency."
> 
> References are: THE USES AND LIMITATION OF HF STANDARD BROADCAST FOR TIME AND 
> FREQUENCY COMPARISON.  John T. Stanley, NIST.
> 
> As I indicated earlier, a frequency accuracy of +/- 1 Hz for ham radio 
> purposes is adequate.  Likewise for time accuracy +/- 0.1 second is adequate.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 6/10/2020 11:52 AM, w4sc wrote:
>> How much doppler shift should be expected?
>> 
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>> 
>> From: W2xj
>> Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
>> To: w4sc
>> Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration
>> 
>> the problem with WWV is doppler shift.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
 On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM 
>>> the 10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of 
>>> test equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, 
>>> all the better,
>>> 
>>> Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
>>> accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, GPS 
>>> locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.
>>> 
>>> Ben W4SC
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>> 
>>> __
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>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> Message delivered to w...@w2xj.net
>>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

And perfect will never occur.  So one best think of adequate.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/10/2020 1:42 PM, W2xj wrote:

adequate is not perfect. YMMV

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:07 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

In referencing TF.NIST.GOV on page 251, I find it stated;

"When high accuracy is not required, probably and fastest way of comparing the 
frequency of an oscillator to a broadcast standard is the familiar heterodyne or zero 
beat method."

And then on page 253, I find it stated;

" Usually, however, it is difficult to adjust an oscillator to exactly zero beat 
with an HF carrier beyond the ground wave range of the transmitter.  The problem arises 
from rapid fluctuations in the received signal strength and from propagation flutter in 
the received frequency."

References are: THE USES AND LIMITATION OF HF STANDARD BROADCAST FOR TIME AND 
FREQUENCY COMPARISON.  John T. Stanley, NIST.

As I indicated earlier, a frequency accuracy of +/- 1 Hz for ham radio purposes 
is adequate.  Likewise for time accuracy +/- 0.1 second is adequate.

73

Bob, K4TAX



On 6/10/2020 11:52 AM, w4sc wrote:
How much doppler shift should be expected?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: W2xj
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
To: w4sc
Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

the problem with WWV is doppler shift.

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:

I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM the 
10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of test 
equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, all the 
better,

Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, GPS 
locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.

Ben W4SC


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[W2xj]

I have higher standards and always have.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> And perfect will never occur.  So one best think of adequate.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
>> On 6/10/2020 1:42 PM, W2xj wrote:
>> adequate is not perfect. YMMV
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:07 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
>>> 
>>> In referencing TF.NIST.GOV on page 251, I find it stated;
>>> 
>>> "When high accuracy is not required, probably and fastest way of comparing 
>>> the frequency of an oscillator to a broadcast standard is the familiar 
>>> heterodyne or zero beat method."
>>> 
>>> And then on page 253, I find it stated;
>>> 
>>> " Usually, however, it is difficult to adjust an oscillator to exactly zero 
>>> beat with an HF carrier beyond the ground wave range of the transmitter.  
>>> The problem arises from rapid fluctuations in the received signal strength 
>>> and from propagation flutter in the received frequency."
>>> 
>>> References are: THE USES AND LIMITATION OF HF STANDARD BROADCAST FOR TIME 
>>> AND FREQUENCY COMPARISON.  John T. Stanley, NIST.
>>> 
>>> As I indicated earlier, a frequency accuracy of +/- 1 Hz for ham radio 
>>> purposes is adequate.  Likewise for time accuracy +/- 0.1 second is 
>>> adequate.
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> 
>>> Bob, K4TAX
>>> 
>>> 
 On 6/10/2020 11:52 AM, w4sc wrote:
 How much doppler shift should be expected?
 
 Sent from Mail for Windows 10
 
 From: W2xj
 Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
 To: w4sc
 Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration
 
 the problem with WWV is doppler shift.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
>> On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:
> I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM 
> the 10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of 
> test equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, 
> all the better,
> 
> Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
> accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, 
> GPS locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.
> 
> Ben W4SC
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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>> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[w4sc]

I agree 100%.  However, the implication for using it for the reference 
oscillator calibration was / could be perceived as not a good way.

John N8UR did an interesting study on the effects.

https://www.febo.com/pages/hf_stability/

73 Ben W4SC

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[Jack Brindle via Elecraft]

That probably wouldn’t help. In this case the system includes the SubRx, the 
Synthesizer and all the interconnects and cables that connect these to the rest 
of the radio. 

I would check the interconnects, especially the tmp coax cables that go from 
the SubRx to the rear panel connector and to the Synthesizer. Also make sure 
the SubRx synthesizer is working properly. That might also explain the SubRx 
issue.

73!
Jack, W6FB


> On Jun 10, 2020, at 11:26 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat 
> economically 
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:
>> 
>> I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
>> seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
>> even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
>> factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.
>> 
>> If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
>> the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
>> some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
>> reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
>> connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
>> antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
>> with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
>> CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
>> install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.
>> 
>> So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
>> diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
>> QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.
>> 
>> I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
>> then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
>> transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
>> never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
>> initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
>> 20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.
>> 
>> I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
>> re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
>> while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
>> could bring it to life. Nada.
>> 
>> I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
>> to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
>> feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.
>> 
>> Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
>> great!
>> 
>> Thanks for listening.
>> 
>> 73
>> Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

[gt-i]

Jim,
you are right, too often we mean counterpoise and say ground.
Hopefully Peter can start doing his experiments based on our wisdom and
I'm curios what will work ok for him.
73 Gernot DF5RF

Am 09.06.2020 um 22:42 schrieb Jim Brown:

On 6/9/2020 1:21 PM, g...@gmx.net wrote:

anywhere then you either need a long vertical plus good ground as
mentioned already


WRONG. An end-fed wire needs a COUNTERPOISE, not a connection to
mother earth. A counterpoise is a low resistance conductor that
provides a return for the current and the field produced by the
"intentional" part of the antenna, and the counterpoise IS a part of
the antenna. Salt water IS an effective counterpoise because it is a
good conductor; fresh water is NOT, because it is NOT a good
conductor, so it burns transmitter power.

Likewise, a ground rod is a lousy counterpoise, because the earth is a
big resistor, and can easily burn much more than half the
transmitter's power. Radials serve as both a counterpoise and a shield
("screen" in British English) -- they shield the field from lossy
earth AND serve as a return for the current and the field.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[Keith Trinity WE6R]

Do NOT send in just the sub! (also an intermittent will invariably NOT 
fail when here at Elecraft).
Like Jack said, check the sub KSYN3 by tapping DISP and look for PL2 
voltages or SYN2 OK (tech mode must be on). When wiggling all the 
cables, don't forget the one at the back of the sub. Look for green LED 
if you have the newer KSYN3A.
BUT if it works on some bands, and not others, it points to the KSYN3 if 
older, run the VCO cal *on the sub receiver* if you have the old KSYN3  
(shows PL2 voltages vs SYN2). (a BPF or LPF problem would be by band 
"pairs", not the whole range below 20M).

When "quiet" is it just low sensitivity? Or dead completely?
Is it dead on BOTH antenna inputs to the sub, IE Aux and Main sharing? 
Toggle back and forth repeatedly.

When dead, does toggling JUST the SUB on and off fix it?
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3 Tech.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[hawley, charles j jr]

Maybe swap synthesizers


Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> That probably wouldn’t help. In this case the system includes the SubRx, the 
> Synthesizer and all the interconnects and cables that connect these to the 
> rest of the radio. 
> 
> I would check the interconnects, especially the tmp coax cables that go from 
> the SubRx to the rear panel connector and to the Synthesizer. Also make sure 
> the SubRx synthesizer is working properly. That might also explain the SubRx 
> issue.
> 
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
> 
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 11:26 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat 
>> economically 
>> 
>> Chuck Jack Hawley 
>> KE9UW
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
>> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
>>> seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
>>> even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
>>> factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.
>>> 
>>> If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
>>> the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
>>> some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
>>> reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
>>> connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
>>> antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
>>> with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
>>> CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
>>> install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.
>>> 
>>> So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
>>> diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
>>> QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.
>>> 
>>> I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
>>> then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
>>> transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
>>> never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
>>> initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
>>> 20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.
>>> 
>>> I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
>>> re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
>>> while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
>>> could bring it to life. Nada.
>>> 
>>> I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
>>> to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
>>> feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.
>>> 
>>> Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
>>> great!
>>> 
>>> Thanks for listening.
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[Buck]

Check the obvious.  Are you sure you didn't accidentally turn down the 
RF and/or AF gain on the SubRx?  I know how easy it is to do.  I have 
seen me do it.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/10/2020 2:26 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat economically

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:

I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.

If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.

So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.

I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.

I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
could bring it to life. Nada.

I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.

Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
great!

Thanks for listening.

73
Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Don Wilhelm]

Barry,

Well, when I was with IBM, my title was Engineer/Scientist, so I got 
credit for both.


Engineers have the education and training to do research as well as 
making those judgements during design that sometimes result in compromises.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/10/2020 1:15 PM, Barry wrote:
I strongly disagree. How many compromises were made to pull this off. 
You may use the laws of physics and math to design something, but unlike 
physics or math, engineering is not as precise. that means there are 
judgment calls made by design engineers. Physicists make judgemet call 
also, but only in data interpretation and not design. Sorry you couldn't 
be more wrong.



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[Elecraft] SSB Net for 5-7-2020

[Eric Lanzl]

Here is the list of stations checking in to the 20m SSB net for June 7, 2020. 
Thank you to the relay stations listed below for your help in checking in 
additional stations. The net meets on Sundays at 1800Z on 14.303.5. We also 
have a 40 m net on 7.280 at 1845Z. And a brand new 80m net at 0100Z Sundays on 
3940. The 80 meter net is the creation of Paul KN9AVO and he is located in 
Eastern Indiana. Hope to hear everyone next Sunday.
Eric WB9JNZ



Call Name  State   Radio  Serial #   QRP   Notes

WB9JNZ   Eric    IL    K3  
4017        NetControl     

NC0JW Jim CO KX3    
1356         Relay Station        

KO5V   Jim      NM    K2/100        
7225    Relay Station      

WM6P  Steve      GA    K3S   11453  
    

K8NU/7    Carl     OH/WA  Yaesu FT    2000  
      Relay Station      

N6JW/M   John        CA KX3      
515      

K6WDE    Dave       CA KX3    4599  
      

K7BRR Bill   AZ K3S  
10939      

KB9AVO   Paul     IN  K3S   
11103      

KS6F    Guy     CA     K3S  
11672      

AE1P    Neil      NH K3 
 2979   Relay Station      

W1DFB    Don      AZ K3  
2937    

K6VWE    Stan MI       K3   
650      

W4DML        Doug       TN      K3 6433 
   

W7QHD    Kurt     AZ  K2/100      1538  
      

AE6JV   Bill  CA      K3
 6299    

K0JFJ    Nick    MN     KX2    
3056    

AE1E Ken    NM     K3S  
11611      

KS7D/P Mike       OR      KX3   
1847    

NK9A Stan       IL    Yaesu 
757      

K6WF    Frank CA  K3S 11672 
     

K9YEQ  Bill  WI       K3S 
11140      

N0MPM Mike        IA    K3S 
10514      
 K5APL Wes AR                 K2
   3505       
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[Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

[Peter Dougherty]

Hi all,
Within the next week or two I am hoping to relocate my KPA-1500 to a
basement crawlspace, but before calling in the electrician and getting ready
to move it, I have a couple of questions. 

 

1.  The area it will be going into is dusty. To the point that when I'm
in there to check on my cables or retrieve an equipment box that's stored
down there I have to wear a face mask or I'll be coughing for hours . I
suspect it's particulate dropping down from the insulation in the ceiling. I
plan to put a shelf about 10 inches over top of the amp but I'm wondering if
this might be a problem. If so, how often should I get down there with a
compressor to blow the crud out of everything? Or maybe put a piece of fine
air filter material over the fan inlet?
2.  The crawlspace is not heated and probably gets into the 40s or even
30s during the winter. Would this be a risk?
3.  I'm using the amp with a K3s. At the moment I have a Y-box from the
accessory port, and a cable from the Y-box to the amp. Since this won't be
on the same floor as the radio, how can I get this working with the radio?
If I site the amp immediately below where it is now I could probably run a
10' DB15 extension cable down from the Y-box to the amp, but I'm pretty sure
that will violate all kinds of fire regs. Not sure how I can do this.

 


-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Barry]

Don,
I worked as a design engineer and then transitioned to system 
engineering/project management. In those latter days, I would receive a 
requirement set from which I needed to make sense. I also had budgetary 
issues that were built in, more requirements than money.  And, there 
might have been other conflicts. So, I know what e had to do, maximize 
the number of requirements satisfied with in the set.


Yes. We engineers were pretty well trained, but when making 
decisions on what had to go or be included it wasn't always a 2+2 = 4 
which is precise. Mathematicians are precise and there may be only 
answer to the equation, but that wasn't the world I was living in; I 
could have many different solutions based on the requirements. This is 
the point I was trying to make.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 6/10/2020 4:20:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.


Barry,

Well, when I was with IBM, my title was Engineer/Scientist, so I got credit for 
both.

Engineers have the education and training to do research as well as making 
those judgements during design that sometimes result in compromises.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/10/2020 1:15 PM, Barry wrote:

I strongly disagree. How many compromises were made to pull this off. You may 
use the laws of physics and math to design something, but unlike physics or 
math, engineering is not as precise. that means there are judgment calls made 
by design engineers. Physicists make judgemet call also, but only in data 
interpretation and not design. Sorry you couldn't be more wrong.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Barry]

Phil,
I think I understand your point. I think I can live with it. 
However, I never studied philosophy.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Phil Hystad via Elecraft" 
To: "Barry" 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 6/10/2020 1:50:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.


The problem with this argument is the dichotomy of choice.  The contrast 
between art and science was introduced into philosophical discussion several 
hundred years ago.

Today, the discussion might better be divided into three categories:  Art, 
Engineering, Science with the recognition that many things real or imagined may 
include parts from all.




 On Jun 10, 2020, at 10:15 AM, Barry  wrote:

 I strongly disagree. How many compromises were made to pull this off. You may 
use the laws of physics and math to design something, but unlike physics or 
math, engineering is not as precise. that means there are judgment calls made 
by design engineers. Physicists make judgemet call also, but only in data 
interpretation and not design. Sorry you couldn't be more wrong.

 73,
 Barry
 K3NDM

 -- Original Message --
 From: "Jim Brown" 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: 6/10/2020 1:53:14 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.


 On 6/9/2020 3:54 PM, Barry wrote:

 EE is an art and not science


 That is NOT even slightly true. ART did not put us on the moon or build the 
Mars rovers. Engineering is the thoughtful application of scientific principles 
and knowledge to solve practical problems. Without science as a base, it's 
little more than the infinite number of monkeys and typewriters producing 
Shakespeare. Nearly all practical designs involve some compromises. Great 
engineering is selecting (sometimes innovating) those solutions which work well 
for the particular problem at hand.

 73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 4:33 PM Peter Dougherty  wrote:

> 1.  The area it will be going into is dusty.


Dust is not good for amplifiers.  They must move lots of air through the
amplifier.  Do you really have to put it there?  Is it because you can't
stand the fan noise?  Or the heat?


> I suspect it's particulate dropping down from the insulation in the
> ceiling.


Any way to fix that?  Maybe a HEPA room filter?


> I plan to put a shelf about 10 inches over top of the amp but I'm
> wondering if
> this might be a problem.


Well, it won't keep the dust out.  Cool air is blown *into* the amplifier
from the rear fans, and out the top (and also through gaps in the front
panel if the fan speed gets high enough).  A shelf over the amp. could
force the hot exhaust air to circulate back down close to the intake.  Not
good.

If so, how often should I get down there with a compressor to blow the crud
> out of everything? Or maybe put a piece of fine
> air filter material over the fan inlet?
>

A filter will probably reduce air flow, and put more stress on the fans.
Not good.

2.  The crawlspace is not heated and probably gets into the 40s or even
> 30s during the winter. Would this be a risk?
>

Cold is good.  Amps like to be cold (KPA1500 has more gain when cold than
when not).  But if moisture or condensation is a problem down there, not
good.


> 3.  I'm using the amp with a K3s. At the moment I have a Y-box from the
> accessory port, and a cable from the Y-box to the amp. Since this won't be
> on the same floor as the radio, how can I get this working with the radio?
>

A long M/F DE-15 cable should work.  I don't know what the length limit
is.  10 to 15 feet should be OK if you have 2.5' from the K3 ACC to the
Y-BOX.   But use a well shielded cable.  I recommend this one for extra
long runs:

https://www.cablesondemand.com/category/HD15/product/CS-DSPMHD15MF/URvars/Items/Library/InfoManage/CS-DSPMHD15MF.htm



> If I site the amp immediately below where it is now I could probably run a
> 10' DB15 extension cable down from the Y-box to the amp, but I'm pretty
> sure
> that will violate all kinds of fire regs. Not sure how I can do this.
>

Fire regs?  Can't comment on that, but there is no more than 13V on any
pin, and very little current, so it's hard to imagine how that cable could
cause a fire.

But once the amp. is down there, how will you monitor it?  Are you planning
to run a long USB or Ethernet cable down there as well?  A long USB cable
will probably need ferrites.  A long Ethernet cable should generate RFI if
you use the unshielded type.

Or are you going to keep a PC in the crawlspace, connected by WiFi, and use
KPA1500 Remote software?

73,
Bob, N6TV
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Re: [Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

[Michael Walker]

My 2 cents

I ran a KPA500 in a boat house for 6 or 7 years.  It wasn't heated, covered
or filtered.  It saw temperatures from -25C to +35C and humidities from 15%
to 99% and it worked perfectly for those  years.   In fact, it still works
today but I just replaced it with a higher power amp.

This was in Ontario NE of Toronto.  From October to April I never saw it
and controlled it remotely by the PC that was sitting beside it.

It wasn't bothered by the high summer humidity or the cold winter air.

Every few years I blew some dust out of it.

I ran a bunch of CW, SSB and RTTY contests on it, some in January and it
took a while for the PA temp to reach 0C.  I figured that if all the
electronics in my car would work at -35C then the KPA500 would as well.

Short story, I plugged it in, turned it on and used it.  That may not what
you wish to do but it worked perfectly for me.

And, it still works perfectly today.  Just in a different purpose.

mike va3mw



On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 7:33 PM Peter Dougherty  wrote:

> Hi all,
> Within the next week or two I am hoping to relocate my KPA-1500 to a
> basement crawlspace, but before calling in the electrician and getting
> ready
> to move it, I have a couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  The area it will be going into is dusty. To the point that when I'm
> in there to check on my cables or retrieve an equipment box that's stored
> down there I have to wear a face mask or I'll be coughing for hours . I
> suspect it's particulate dropping down from the insulation in the ceiling.
> I
> plan to put a shelf about 10 inches over top of the amp but I'm wondering
> if
> this might be a problem. If so, how often should I get down there with a
> compressor to blow the crud out of everything? Or maybe put a piece of fine
> air filter material over the fan inlet?
> 2.  The crawlspace is not heated and probably gets into the 40s or even
> 30s during the winter. Would this be a risk?
> 3.  I'm using the amp with a K3s. At the moment I have a Y-box from the
> accessory port, and a cable from the Y-box to the amp. Since this won't be
> on the same floor as the radio, how can I get this working with the radio?
> If I site the amp immediately below where it is now I could probably run a
> 10' DB15 extension cable down from the Y-box to the amp, but I'm pretty
> sure
> that will violate all kinds of fire regs. Not sure how I can do this.
>
>
>
>
> -
> 73 and Good DX
> Peter, W2IRT
>
>
>
> President, North Jersey DX Association
>
> DXCC Card Checker
> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Don Wilhelm]

Barry,

Sometimes we have to put on the Scientists hat, but when the rubber 
meets the road and we have to come up with a product, we have to put on 
the design engineers hat and say that how much compromise is required to 
meet 1) customer demands, 2) budget constraints, 3) speed to first 
customer shipment, 4) adherence to the initial specifications that have 
been published.
If you can meet 2 of the 4 above, you have done OK, 3 is better, but 
takes more effort.


I worked both as a design engineer and as a Product Assurance Test Team 
Leader whose efforts were to test the product to conform to the 
specifications or fix it - an alternative was to change the 
specifications, which usually did not sit well with me, but was reality.


73,
W3FPR

On 6/10/2020 7:55 PM, Barry wrote:

Don,
    I worked as a design engineer and then transitioned to system 
engineering/project management. In those latter days, I would receive 
a requirement set from which I needed to make sense. I also had 
budgetary issues that were built in, more requirements than money.  
And, there might have been other conflicts. So, I know what e had to 
do, maximize the number of requirements satisfied with in the set.


    Yes. We engineers were pretty well trained, but when making 
decisions on what had to go or be included it wasn't always a 2+2 = 4 
which is precise. Mathematicians are precise and there may be only 
answer to the equation, but that wasn't the world I was living in; I 
could have many different solutions based on the requirements. This is 
the point I was trying to make.




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Re: [Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

[Peter Dougherty]

The concern is 100% noise. Heat I don’t mind, and it helps in the winter.

I’ll see about a HEPA room filter. The area is a concrete crawl space below my 
shack, about 3 feet high and 25 feet long, with a sheltered window at one end 
and access to the main part of the basement at the other. I would plan to put 
the amp about 8 feet in from the basement entrance, and against an exterior 
wall.

I don’t know what material is dropping over everything, but it’s noticeable. 
Maybe concrete dust? Something from the insulation in the ceiling?? I figured 
if I went down every week or two with a compressor and just blasted air into 
the back to blow anything out that would help. I see you point about air 
filters. 

 

I have a Cat-6 line in there now to an old PC, the drop to my station, and 
another one to my weather station’s RPI. With good shielded coax running in the 
direction opposite direction to the Cat-6 and a few ferrites I think I’ll be OK 
in that area. It’s just the dust contamination I’m concerned about. 

 

- pjd

 

From: Bob Wilson, N6TV  
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 9:10 PM
To: Peter Dougherty ; Elecraft Reflector 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

 

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 4:33 PM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

1.  The area it will be going into is dusty.

 

Dust is not good for amplifiers.  They must move lots of air through the 
amplifier.  Do you really have to put it there?  Is it because you can't stand 
the fan noise?  Or the heat?

 

I suspect it's particulate dropping down from the insulation in the ceiling.

 

Any way to fix that?  Maybe a HEPA room filter?

 

I plan to put a shelf about 10 inches over top of the amp but I'm wondering if
this might be a problem.

 

Well, it won't keep the dust out.  Cool air is blown into the amplifier from 
the rear fans, and out the top (and also through gaps in the front panel if the 
fan speed gets high enough).  A shelf over the amp. could force the hot exhaust 
air to circulate back down close to the intake.  Not good.

 

If so, how often should I get down there with a compressor to blow the crud out 
of everything? Or maybe put a piece of fine
air filter material over the fan inlet?

 

A filter will probably reduce air flow, and put more stress on the fans.  Not 
good.

 

2.  The crawlspace is not heated and probably gets into the 40s or even
30s during the winter. Would this be a risk?

 

Cold is good.  Amps like to be cold (KPA1500 has more gain when cold than when 
not).  But if moisture or condensation is a problem down there, not good.

 

3.  I'm using the amp with a K3s. At the moment I have a Y-box from the
accessory port, and a cable from the Y-box to the amp. Since this won't be
on the same floor as the radio, how can I get this working with the radio?

 

A long M/F DE-15 cable should work.  I don't know what the length limit is.  10 
to 15 feet should be OK if you have 2.5' from the K3 ACC to the Y-BOX.   But 
use a well shielded cable.  I recommend this one for extra long runs:

 

https://www.cablesondemand.com/category/HD15/product/CS-DSPMHD15MF/URvars/Items/Library/InfoManage/CS-DSPMHD15MF.htm
 

 

If I site the amp immediately below where it is now I could probably run a
10' DB15 extension cable down from the Y-box to the amp, but I'm pretty sure
that will violate all kinds of fire regs. Not sure how I can do this.

 

Fire regs?  Can't comment on that, but there is no more than 13V on any pin, 
and very little current, so it's hard to imagine how that cable could cause a 
fire.

 

But once the amp. is down there, how will you monitor it?  Are you planning to 
run a long USB or Ethernet cable down there as well?  A long USB cable will 
probably need ferrites.  A long Ethernet cable should generate RFI if you use 
the unshielded type.  

 

Or are you going to keep a PC in the crawlspace, connected by WiFi, and use 
KPA1500 Remote software?

 

73,

Bob, N6TV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Barry]

Don,
Yep. You do understand what I was trying to say. What a lot of folks 
don't understand is that the compromises I make may or may not be those 
that you would make, and if there were more engineers involved, there 
could be that many reflections of what needs to be done. All I can say 
is life sometimes was challenging.


Ham radio reflects a lot of the things you and I faced. For 
instance, what antenna should be used. All the answers may be 
technically correct, but try and fit a 80 meter antenna into a 20 meter 
antenna. I know there will be a host of ideas on what should go in. Each 
will be a compromise. Look to this reflector to see what I mean. Each 
ham has his own idea of what needs to be done; it gets down to how you 
interpret the requirement set.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Barry" ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 6/10/2020 9:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.


Barry,

Sometimes we have to put on the Scientists hat, but when the rubber meets the 
road and we have to come up with a product, we have to put on the design 
engineers hat and say that how much compromise is required to meet 1) customer 
demands, 2) budget constraints, 3) speed to first customer shipment, 4) 
adherence to the initial specifications that have been published.
If you can meet 2 of the 4 above, you have done OK, 3 is better, but takes more 
effort.

I worked both as a design engineer and as a Product Assurance Test Team Leader 
whose efforts were to test the product to conform to the specifications or fix 
it - an alternative was to change the specifications, which usually did not sit 
well with me, but was reality.

73,
W3FPR

On 6/10/2020 7:55 PM, Barry wrote:

Don,
I worked as a design engineer and then transitioned to system 
engineering/project management. In those latter days, I would receive a 
requirement set from which I needed to make sense. I also had budgetary issues 
that were built in, more requirements than money.  And, there might have been 
other conflicts. So, I know what e had to do, maximize the number of 
requirements satisfied with in the set.

Yes. We engineers were pretty well trained, but when making decisions on 
what had to go or be included it wasn't always a 2+2 = 4 which is precise. 
Mathematicians are precise and there may be only answer to the equation, but 
that wasn't the world I was living in; I could have many different solutions 
based on the requirements. This is the point I was trying to make.






--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Wake On Lan not working

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

If needed, the KPA1500 can be remotely powered on and off by momentarily
grounding Pin 8 of the KPA1500 AUX port, however this will not work using
an unmodified KPAK3AUX cable, which has no connection to Pin 8.  However,
this "remote power on" feature is supported by the Y-BOX v2.x
, when connected to the amp with a straight 15-pin
cable (not the Elecraft KPA3AUX cable), as documented here:

https://www.kkn.net/~n6tv/Y-BOX/Features.html#Remote

However, I believe you have the original Y-BOX, v1.x, which doesn't have
this feature.

So in your case, follow the instructions for modifying the KPAK3AUX cable
to support remote power via a K3 macro, as documented in the section
titled *Using
a Remote Site KPA500 from the Control Site *in the *K3 Remote Owner's
Manual
*.
However, the macro in the manual has an major error:  it omits the last
semicolon.  The correct macro is documented at the link above.
Electrically, you just have to connect KPAK3AUX cable Pin 11 (DIGOUT1) to
Pin 8 in the female end of the cable (the end that plugs into the amp. AUX
connector).

This assumes you're not using the DIGOUT1 line to activate an external
pre-amp like the Elecraft PR6-10.

As a final note, the KPA1500 won't work properly if you connect all 15 pins
between the K3 ACC and the KPA1500 AUX (same applies to KPA500).  And of
course, *never* connect a VGA monitor cable to any Elecraft connector (way
too many lines shorted to ground).  So your best bet would be to use a
15-pin M/F extension between the Y-BOX and the KPAK3AUX cable (after
modification).  Connect the AUX cable to the amp, and the extension to the
Y-BOX.  Then program the K3 macro as documented in the link above.

73,
Bob, N6TV
https://bit.ly/Y-BOX

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 11:39 AM Peter Dougherty  wrote:

> Wake On LAN is not functioning on my KPA-1500 using the remote software. I
> have the Wake On Lan and DHCP boxes checked in the Network tab in the
> configuration settings within the KPA1500 Utility program, and the LAN
> settings (including the IP address) are correct.
>
>
> The only condition in which the remote software (v1.27) can find the
> KPA1500
> is when the amp is manually powered on, after which it operates fine. Once
> I
> power down the amp there is no condition in which I can reattach the
> software remotely-I must power the amp on from the front panel button. In
> addition to this, just pressing the "connect" button won't do it either. I
> have to press the TEST button, wait until it finds the amp, then press
> CONNECT and it connects normally.
>
>
>
> At the moment this isn't a deal breaker, but I intend to remote the amp
> next
> week to a relatively inaccessible space in the basement so I'd like to get
> this solved as soon as possible.
>
>
>
> As a side issue, the DHCP IP address had changed at some point, and the
> remote software did NOT pick up the change. I had to hunt in my router for
> the MAC address and enter the new IPV4 address manually into the remote
> software.
>
>
> -
> Please and thanks.
>
> Peter, W2IRT
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[aj4tf]

K3WIV is the owner.



--
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Wake On Lan not working

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 11:39 AM Peter Dougherty  wrote:

> Wake On LAN is not functioning on my KPA-1500 using the remote software. I
> have the Wake On Lan and DHCP boxes checked in the Network tab in the
> configuration settings within the KPA1500 Utility program, and the LAN
> settings (including the IP address) are correct.


Assuming you remembered to click the "Apply" button in the KPA1500 Utility
after checking the Wake on LAN box, the KPA1500 Remote software still may
not connect to the amp *if the KPA1500 Utility is running at the same time*,
and still connected to the KPA1500 USB port (even if the KPA1500 is OFF).
So, exit the KPA1500 Utility first, or click the "Close Port" button.  Turn
off the KPA1500, then launch the KPA1500 Remote software and the Wake On
LAN feature should work OK, using either the "Local Connect" or "Host
Remote" tabs, and the *Ethernet* secondary-tab.  Either the TEST button or
the CONNECT button should wake up the amplifier if it is powered OFF.

Once I power down the amp there is no condition in which I can reattach the
> software remotely-I must power the amp on from the front panel button.


I could only replicate that when the KPA1500 Utility was running at the
same time as the KPA1500 Remote software.  And it didn't always occur.

In addition to this, just pressing the "connect" button won't do it either.
> I have to press the TEST button, wait until it finds the amp, then press
> CONNECT and it connects normally.
>

I cannot replicate that.  Either button wakes up the amp once the IP
address and MAC address are stored.


> As a side issue, the DHCP IP address had changed at some point, and the
> remote software did NOT pick up the change.


I don't think the KPA1500 software can automatically find the amplifier's
new IP address by poking around your entire LAN, if that's what you're
thinking.

I had to hunt in my router for the MAC address and enter the new IPV4
> address manually into the remote software.
>

The KPA1500's new IPV4 address is displayed on the amplifier's LCD display
(MENU:NET IP ADDRESS), so there's no need to look at your Router.  Of
course MENU:TECH MODE has to be ENABLED first, to see this entry.  The
KPA1500 Utility can also be used to see the same menu, using the OPERATE
tab.  Just remember to close the KPA1500 Utility before trying to use the
KPA1500 Remote software to wake up the amplifier.

73,
Bob, N6TV
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