[Elecraft] OT: FS Fluke 8842A DMM with Original Manual

2009-04-20 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
The Fluke is a professional grade 5.5 digit DMM with regular and four wire 
measurement capabilities.  It saw me through a K2/100 build, a KX1 build, and 
many other projects.  It is is very nice shape and fully operational.  Its last 
full calibration was in November of 2005 lapsing in 2006.  I haven't seen the 
need for a formal recalibration, as it comares accurately to my other dmms and 
standards.  It comes complete with power cord, a good set of test leads, and 
the original manual (user and service).
 
You can scan the internet to get the complete specifications on the 8842A, 
which is the top of the 8000 line.  However, there are a few reasons why I like 
it.  1) it is a very solidly built, reliable unit; 2) it has a low noise front 
end and uses thin film resistor networks (first in this series to do so); 3) 
the controls are straight forward and logical; 4) measurements are held; and 5) 
it has a bright electrofluorescent display.  It uses Fluke's true rms 
technology.
 
The last two points really add to usability.  You can't always be looking at 
the DMM when you are looking into the work and placing the leads.  Here, it 
will hold the reading after you remove the leads.  You can zero it by touching 
the leads together or just take another reading.  The electrofluorescent 
display is much, much easier to read than LCD displays (you can read an ef 
display across the room in full light) and easier on the eyes than the a red 
led display.
 
As of this morning (April 19) the least expensive 8842A on eBay is being sold 
for $299, buy it now.  It does not come with a manual, but Tucker is selling 
the manual separately for $50.  There are others, admittedly with the GPIB* 
option, that are being offered for as high as $499.  I am asking $185 plus 
actual shipping for the dmm, probes, cord and manual.
 
Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr. W1WF
K3/100
*The GPIB option is not very useful outside of automated testing and mass 
production.
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[Elecraft] Re; ot: Fluke 8842a dmm

2009-04-20 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Sold

Howard Ashcraft
Hanson Bridgett LLP
415 995-5073
hashcr...@hansonbridgett.com
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[Elecraft] OT: FS: Fluke 88422A 5.5 Digit DMM with Original Manual

2009-04-19 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
The Fluke is a professional grade 5.5 digit DMM with regular and four wire 
measurement capabilities.  It saw me through a K2/100 build, a KX1 build, and 
many other projects.  It is is very nice shape and fully operational.  Its last 
full calibration was in November of 2005 lapsing in 2006.  I haven't seen the 
need for a formal recalibration, as it comares accurately to my other dmms and 
standards.  It comes complete with power cord, a good set of test leads, and 
the original manual (user and service).
 
You can scan the internet to get the complete specifications on the 8842A, 
which is the top of the 8000 line.  However, there are a few reasons why I like 
it.  1) it is a very solidly built, reliable unit; 2) it has a low noise front 
end and uses thin film resistor networks (first in this series to do so); 3) 
the controls are straight forward and logical; 4) measurements are held; and 5) 
it has a bright electrofluorescent display.  It uses Fluke's true rms 
technology.
 
The last two points really add to usability.  You can't always be looking at 
the DMM when you are looking into the work and placing the leads.  Here, it 
will hold the reading after you remove the leads.  You can zero it by touching 
the leads together or just take another reading.  The electrofluorescent 
display is much, much easier to read than LCD displays (you can read an ef 
display across the room in full light) and easier on the eyes than the a red 
led display.
 
As of this morning (April 19) the least expensive 8842A on eBay is being sold 
for $299, "buy it now".  It does not come with a manual, but Tucker (a well 
known test equipment vendor) is selling the manual on eBay separately for $50.  
There are other 8842As on eBay, admittedly with the GPIB* option, that are 
being offered for as high as $499.  I am asking $195 plus actual shipping for 
the dmm, probes, cord and manual.
 
Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr. W1WF
K3/100
*The GPIB option is not very useful unless you are doing automated testing and 
mass production.
 
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[Elecraft] FS: KX1, KXB30, KXAT1; KXPD1 w/Pelican Case

2007-12-19 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have a mint KX1 with the above options.  It has less than 20 hours of
use (probably less than 10) and has been stored inside a Pelican case.
There is also a small wall-wart that I use with the KX1 that fits into
the case.  Total cost exceeds $500 for the kits and Pelican case.  I am
willing to sell for $425 by certified check or Paypal.  Can be picked up
in Alameda, CA or downtown San Francisco, or shipped by FedEx at their
cost.

Howard W1WF



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[Elecraft] K2 Excessive Internal Noise?

2007-11-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
After solving an Auxbus issue with the KPA100, I noticed the following.
With no antenna, or a good dummy load, if the RF level is full counter
clockwise and the AF full clockwise you get a perfectly acceptable level
of audio hiss.  However, as you advance the RF level to 12 O'clock a
"bacon frying" noise starts to be perceptible.  At full RF, full AF, it
is quite distinct.  I don't seem to recall the "bacon frying" noise
before and it is low enough that band noise will blank it.  Also, I
rarely have the AF past 12 O'clock in operation, so it isn't apparent,
but I also think that it shouldn't be there.  Years ago I used to work
on audio equipment and this sounds like a noisy resistor, but because it
is coming out of the RF circuitry, it could be a few other things, too.
First question.  Would someone do a similar check on their K2 to see if
this is inherent (i.e., am I chasing rainbows).  Thanks in advance.
Second, I'm starting to go through the schematics looking for suspects
and will do a little testing when I get back home (on a business trip
right now).  If anyone has already experienced and addressed this, I
would appreciate your information to jump start my tracing.

Thanks,

Howard W1WF



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[Elecraft] Mono v. Stereo Headphones?

2007-10-11 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I was cleaning out my parents home the other day and ran across my
father's Telex HTW-2A twinset headphones.  He was a Pan American Captain
flying 727s and 707s at the end of his career.  The twinset was the
favorite headset because it had good audio and was comfortable for long
hauls.  But it is a mono headset.  I have been using it for CW qsos and
it is quite comfortable and seems to work well.  However, is there an
advantage to using stereo phones for cw work (or for ssb, which I do
rarely), assuming you are piping the audio from a single receiver?

Howard, W1WF





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[Elecraft] INFO 080

2007-09-24 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I know there is information in the archives, but a search on INFO 080
revealed only 3 entries.  My problem is that after a few weeks sitting
unused, by K2/100 is showing an INFO 080 error.  In addition to the
error message, the unit malfunctions by not remembering settings through
on and off cycles and by transmitting uncontrolled rapid pulses when
either the left or right side of an iambic paddle is keyed.  It seems
that malfunctions diminish, or disappear, when the power setting is
below 5 watts (or at least at 4.5 watts).

I suspect the KPA100 and in particular the connection between the K2 and
the KPA100 because I had this problem once before and it went away after
taking the cover off and replacing it.  However, because it has
reappeared, I'm seeking all opinions on this subject.

Thanks,

Howard, W1WF



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[Elecraft] Re: OT: FS Tektronix 2246 100 Mhz, 4 Channel Oscilloscopes

2007-08-03 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Thanks for the responses, the oscilloscopes are all gone, unfortunately.
There were far more requests than oscilloscopes.

73

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF



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[Elecraft] OT: FS Tektronix 2246 100 Mhz, 4 Channel Oscilloscopes

2007-08-02 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
There are occasional posts on the reflector asking about oscilloscopes and 
their availability.  I just finished refurbishing 6 Tektronix 2246 Mod A 
oscilloscopes.  The 2246 Mod A is a great combination of power and convenience 
at a reasonable price.  The cursors and auto trigger and auto measurement 
functions are very nice.  There are internal self-calibration routines for time 
and voltage measurement, plus these scopes also have an exceptionally bright 
and sharp trace.  They are my favorite 100 Mhz scope.

3 of the refurbished scopes have been already been taken by members of our 
local club, but I may have three left so I'm posting it here before going to 
eBay in case someone would like them.  These scopes have been cleaned, minor 
repairs made, and then checked and/or adjusted to meet or exceed Tek standards 
using Tek calibration tools (PG506/TG501/SG503).  While the scopes were apart, 
I also repainted the cases with lacquer that was formulated to exactly match 
the standard Tek blue.  I have loaded photographs at www.ashcraftfamily.net.  
Click on HWA Stuff and then you will see three sub-directories identified by 
model and serial number.  There is a text file in each directory that explains 
the significance of the photographs and the prices.  Prices vary because one is 
nearly perfect cosmetically, one is very good, but has one rear plastic 
standoff broken, and the third has two plastic standoff's broken.  (Check the 
photos)

Regards,

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF
K2/100; KX-1; K3/100 real soon now...




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[Elecraft] Mobile K2/100? with detached control head??

2007-07-02 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I am considering modifying my K2/100 for mobile operation.  Ideally, I
would detach the front panel and control board and mount them in the
dash or near the driver with the remaining transceiver pieces in the
rear of my SUV in a modified EC2.  The SUV radio/CD player has an
auxiliary input, so I will probably pipe the audio into the built-in to
provide sufficient audio for mobile ops.  ( I may need/want to build a
small pre-amp/audio out to match the impedance/level of the audio input
in the SUV.  Does anyone know what the standard level/impedance is for
an "AUX" connection?

Before sitting down and figuring how to accomplish this task, I thought
I would ask if anyone has undertaken a similar project and if there were
any unusual difficulties.  (The good/bad news is that I won't actually
undertake this project until a K3 arrives, so I have time to consider
how this should be accomplished)

73,

Howard W1WF



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Filters Will Not Align Properly

2007-06-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Dan,

I should have been more careful when I said "centering around 600hz."  600hz is 
set at about the first major peak of OP1 and is very close to the spacing you 
describe.

Thanks and 73,

Howard W1WF

K2/100
KX1



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Filters Will Not Align Properly

2007-06-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.  However, it turned out to be a 
different problem.  For reasons unknown, although possibly linked to the Info 
80 messages, the KDSP2 was not disengaging as it should and the first DSP 
filter was wildly off the mark.  This interfered with setting the crystal 
filters.

Because I don't have access to the code (and if it isn't in C or C++, I would 
have difficulty following it), I'm not sure if a communication error could 
cause the DSP filter to errantly set itself.  Before this all started, the DSP 
filters were at their default settings.

In any event, once the KDSP2 was properly bypassing, everything fell in line.  
I'm beginning to think that the K2 saw me reading K3 specs and threw a 
snitfit... ;)

Thanks, and 73,

Howard W1WF




-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sun 6/17/2007 5:35 PM
To: Howard W. Ashcraft
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filters Will Not Align Properly
 
Howard,

Dan Barker's response was likely 'on target'.

It is entirely possible that you have gotten the BFOs set to the wrong 
sideband.  The CW filters should be at a lower BFO frequency than the 
CWr frequencies, and likewise the LSB filters should be lower than the 
USB filters.

I suggest that you start over from 'scratch' - download the newest KSB2 
manual from the Elecraft website and look at page 20 for the chart of 
initial BFO frequencies.
Assume that your OP1 crystals are from the 3.6 set (unless you know the 
set designation) and enter 4913.5 in the LSB entry and 4916.3 in the USB 
entry and set the BFOs to the frequency indicated in that manual.

Those frequencies should provide a good starting point for your filter 
alignment.  When using Spectrogram, use a wideband noise generator or 
'dead band' noise (turn the preamp on) - attempting to use a single 
signal to do the alignment will likely result in confusion and failure. 
  Take care not to move the passband down through zero frequency on the 
Spectrogram display when moving the passband to your chosen sidetone 
pitch (that will move it to the wrong sideband).

73,
Don W3FPR

Howard W. Ashcraft wrote:
> After several years of faithful service, my K2/100 (with KDSP2 and KSB2) has 
> developed a perplexing malady.  The crystal filter passband will not adjust 
> to center on a 600hz sidetone.  As you adjust the filters towards 600 hz 
> using Spectrogram (say OP1), the filter shape degrades and then severely 
> attenuates the signal until NO audio signal is visible on the Spectrogram 
> display.  I have repeated the key realignment procedures three times, with  
> identical results.
> 
> The long story.  The K2/100 generated an Info 080 message that I started 
> diagnosing.  The problem "self-corrected" which lead me to believe it was 
> probably a loose connection to the KPA100.  Despite lots of opening and 
> closing the case, the problem has not reappeared.
> 
> I now have better test equipment than I had when I built the K2 (serial 4357) 
> and it seemed like a good time to realign the transceiver.  I did a complete 
> realignment, with minimal changes except a slight kick to the 4Mhz oscillator 
> and a reasonable amount of repeaking of the bandpass filters.  So far so 
> good.  All of the key tests/parameters were within range.
> 
> When I started to set the filters, however, I could not get them within 
> range.  As noted above, I can not shift the passband to cover a 600hz 
> sidetone.  The filters appear to center around 900-1000 hz.  I have attempted 
> to set the filters back to my prior CAL FIL BFO settings, but to no avail.
> 
> The following are the test results from this realignment.




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[Elecraft] K2 Filters Will Not Align Properly

2007-06-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
After several years of faithful service, my K2/100 (with KDSP2 and KSB2) has 
developed a perplexing malady.  The crystal filter passband will not adjust to 
center on a 600hz sidetone.  As you adjust the filters towards 600 hz using 
Spectrogram (say OP1), the filter shape degrades and then severely attenuates 
the signal until NO audio signal is visible on the Spectrogram display.  I have 
repeated the key realignment procedures three times, with  identical results.

The long story.  The K2/100 generated an Info 080 message that I started 
diagnosing.  The problem "self-corrected" which lead me to believe it was 
probably a loose connection to the KPA100.  Despite lots of opening and closing 
the case, the problem has not reappeared.

I now have better test equipment than I had when I built the K2 (serial 4357) 
and it seemed like a good time to realign the transceiver.  I did a complete 
realignment, with minimal changes except a slight kick to the 4Mhz oscillator 
and a reasonable amount of repeaking of the bandpass filters.  So far so good.  
All of the key tests/parameters were within range.

When I started to set the filters, however, I could not get them within range.  
As noted above, I can not shift the passband to cover a 600hz sidetone.  The 
filters appear to center around 900-1000 hz.  I have attempted to set the 
filters back to my prior CAL FIL BFO settings, but to no avail.

The following are the test results from this realignment.

PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test

High = 12101.55
Low  =  12088.14
Dif  = 13.44  (Acceptable 9.8 - 15)

VCO Voltage  all greater than 1.5 v, less than 7.5 v.

BFO Test

BFO High = 4917.42  (Acceptable >= 4916.3)
BFO Low  = 4912.34  (Acceptable <= 4912.7)
Range=5.08  (Acceptable >= 3.6)

Transmit frequency is +- 10 hz.  However, zero beating a 600hz sidetone against 
the 7.00 Mhz birdie **appears** to be around 7000.35 Khz.  (I never fully trust 
zero beating as I am tonally challenged...)

Any ideas??



Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr.
Hanson, Bridgett, Marcus, Vlahos & Rudy
425 Market Street, 26th Fl.
San Francisco, CA 94105

ph: 415.995.5073
fax:415.541.9366
e:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]




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[Elecraft] INFO 080 --K2/100 in distress

2007-06-04 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
My K2/100, serial 4375 has worked flawlessly for several years.  This evening, 
I fired it up and received an INFO 080 message.  There are a number of 
symptoms.  First, the K2 works somewhat intermittently.  I tried using in on CW 
and found that it would operate below 5 watts, but was erratic above that 
level.  Keying the transmitter above 5 watts would cause a staccato burst of 
transmission (like a string of dits) regardless of what direction the iambic 
paddle was keyed.  Using tune, however, did not cause the intermittent 
operation.  If you turn the unit on, sometimes you get an INFO 080 message, 
sometimes you do not.  Sometimes it seems to reset itself from transmit to 
receive.

The U1 voltages on pin 1 and 20 are correct.  However, there should be 6v on 
pin 2 and it is 0.  U9 and U10 are supposed to have 0.2 and 0.15 volts 
respectively, but are at ground. Not suprisingly, Z5 shows no sign of life.  
Changing bands results in relays clicking, but the voltage drop that should be 
seen on pin 1 also appears intermittent.  Sometimes I see a voltage drop, 
sometimes I don't.  I also have the sense that the bands switch more slowly 
than usual, although this may just be my perception.

Z5 being quiet would obviously hinder I/O, but I am not convinced it is at 
fault because there is no voltage on the associated U1 pins.  It it seems 
equally likely that U1 is damaged.

Any suggestions other than swapping out Z5 and U1?  (BTW, all connections are 
good and complete).

73

Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr. W1WF





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[Elecraft] Elecraft Linear Amplifiers

2007-05-25 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status of the 
Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits.  What is the current 
status?

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  425 Market Street, 26th Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 995-3460 






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RE: [Elecraft] Solvent

2006-12-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
 For an example of what damage can be done, I am restoring a Tek SC504
oscilloscope where someone used contact cleaner/solvent on the channel 2
attenuator.  This caused corrosion of contacts and debonding between
contacts and carrier.  It is fixable, but I sure wish some tech in the
past hadn't taken the "quick" route of spraying chemicals inside
precision electronics.  I am cleaning it up with alcohol.

Howard W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:44 AM
To: 'Elecraft'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Solvent

I'm sure others will suggest many options although if you read the
Elecraft manuals you'll find, in bold type: 

"DO NOT use ... solvents of any kind. Use of any of these will void your
warranty." 

If you need to clean your boards you're probably using too much solder.
Try a smaller diameter solder. 

If you look at the photos of assembled boards in any of several Elecraft
assembly manuals including the XV 50, 144, 222 or 432 transverters, the
KX1, the T1 antenna tuner or the WM1, AT1 or AF1 mini-modules, you'll
see boards I built up while writing the assembly procedures for those
kits. Those photos are the boards as they came from the soldering iron. 

If you look closely, you might see a few dark spots of flux here and
there, but they're tiny and insignificant and often in a place where I
installed and removed a part several times as the design was finalized.
To be certain the kit can be built exactly as described, I never use any
tools that are not specifically listed in the manual. That means no
fancy high-powered vacuum desoldering tool to clean up pads; just braid
or the SoldapulltR "sucker" listed under "Tools Required". 

I will admit to taking a small swab with some isopropyl alcohol to an
individual, particularly messy solder pad when I needed to re-shoot a
picture after many component changes, especially when, after many
resoldering, some flux escaped the pad itself and ran onto the PCB, but
that's the extent of any flux removal. I moisten a Q-tipR or similar
swab with alcohol, then place it on the flux and spin the tip to scrub
that spot and loosen the flux. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Folks,

I'd like to know from the collective wisdom what solvent may be used on
Elecraft PC assemblies to remove some residual flux and flux smears.

It seems to me that a solvent that wouldn't harm boards and components
was isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) in the old days.

What do you Elecraft Builders use!

Thanks,

Bill
NA7Y





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RE: [Elecraft] Recomendations on Oscilloscopes

2006-11-26 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Everyone has favorites, but the older Tek analog scopes are very solid and a 
good deal.  If you have the room, you can get amazing performance/cost from 
7000 series scopes.  I have a 7854 (400 mhz plus waveform digitizing) and a 
7934 (500 Mhz Analog storage)  7000s run from 100mhz to 1Ghz in bandwidth, and, 
depending upon the plug-ins chosen, you can do just about anything with a 7000 
series.  Their primary drawback is size.  Both of my scopes are on carts 
because they would take up a big chunk of my bench, otherwise.


Tek also made a very nice series of "portable" scopes.  The 100 Mhz 2246 is 
very nice and readily available used.  It has the added bonus of "smart 
cursors" to easily measure amplitude and period/frequency with a single button 
push, and I have found the triggering to be quite good.  The 2400 series, and 
particularly the 2465s are also nice pieces of equipment, but are more 
expensive due to their greater bandwidth.

What you "need" really depends on what you "want" and what you are going to do 
with it.  The higher bandwidth devices are useful if you need to look at 
abberations in a signal that may be smoothed out in a lower bandwidth scope, 
but may be unnecessary if you just want to trace a signal through a circuit and 
measuring changes in amplitude or phase.  Extra bandwidth is never a bad thing, 
it just costs more, and may not be necessary.

Now to stir up the controversy, I used to have a Tek 465. This is a venerable 
100 Mhz scope, but frankly the 2246s that I have had worked better and were 
much easier to use.  So, I would recommend a scope more recent than the 465/475 
series.  But there are lots of these still out there and are very much liked by 
some. My one experience repairing a 465 may have colored my view.  

Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr. W1WF



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RE: [Elecraft] New Mini-Modules - They're here!!

2006-09-28 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
If you are looking for a finished power meter kit, you should check out
the LP-100, by fellow elecrafter Larry Phipps.  (www.telepostinc.com)
It is a very well thought out and attractive unit (neat pld display)
with power, swr and vector measurements. I participate in the LP-100
reflector and, from the comments, everyone seems to be quite pleased.  I
think he is starting another kitting run.

Howard W1WF  

-Original Message-
From: Darwin, Keith [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 6:02 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New Mini-Modules - They're here!!

Hey guys, did you see?  Three new mini modules are on the order page and
their manuals are available for download.
 
- Power meter
- AF filter
- Stepped attenuator
 
I looked them over and gotta say, I was very disappointed.  I had really
envisioned a meter in a case that would match my K2.  Something with a
backlit LCD that would display power and SWR to with 2 digits each (11
watts, SWR 1.2).  I had plans to sell my Palstar meter (which won't do
QRP well) and get the Elecraft meter but now I'm really having 2nd
thoughts about that.
 
The audio filter looks really cool but, again, no case.
 
A power meter and an audio filter to me are not test equipment things,
their part of the basic station equipment.  They'd get used every time
I'm on the air and as such they really should be in a finished case with
real silk screen labels and knobs.
 
It's not clear to me that either one could be mounted in a box as the
components & connectors may project too tall above the board and could
interfere with the pots & LEDs as they try to project through the front
of the enclosure.
 
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -




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RE: [Elecraft] External 12V with the KX1 necessary?

2006-08-21 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I travel with a KX1 and have had very intermittent success using
internal batteries.  At this power level one is at the will of the
propagation gods, and when I'm traveling my opportunities to use the
radio rarely line up with better conditions.  That said, I have had
periods when 2 watts seems to be OK and other periods where I can hear
stations clearly but NO one answers a call. It is very frustrating to
hear a station continually call CQ and never hear your response.  In
those instances I really wished for a little more power to make a few
QSOs in the limited time available.  My internal ATU seems quite happy
with an outside power source, btw.  I have gotten a Buddipole, which has
helped, and which works better for me than a random wire.  It also
doesn't have the logistic problems of carrying or finding something to
support a wire antenna, but is a little tricky to tune at 40m.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Michael Madden [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] External 12V with the KX1 necessary?

Hi group,

I've been having a lot of fun with my KX1 out near the San Francisco
Bay.  I have worked coast-to-coast in the US and DX highlights include
FO5 Tahiti and CM6 Cuba.  

A question on power output: what are your opinions on the value of 12V
from an external battery?  I.e., 4W vs. 2W?  

I have had some intermittent ATU problems with the KX1 when on external
12V, so I often need to revert to internal Li AA's.  I am wondering what
your opinions are on the need for 3dB gain on the KX1.  

I have tried to do some on-air A/B testing between internal and external
power.  The guys on the other end usually say "FB on 2W."  But I have
also gotten some "are you still there."

Anyone else do such A/B testing on the air?  Any conclusions?

Thanks,
Mike N9OHW

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[Elecraft] OT: Obsolete Transistor MS1700G

2006-06-16 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I am working on a power supply with a linear regulator circuit containing two 
MS1700G power transistors that have shorted.  I don't think they are in any way 
exotic, and I'm sure there is a modern replacement.  But I can't find any 
specification information anywhere to begin the replacement analysis.  The only 
internet search results for a MS1700G are from distributors that have $250 
minimums and are only providing a "quote."  None of the normal providers 
(Digikey, Mouser, JAMECO etc. stock this transistor.)  Does anyone have a 
reference or spec sheet information regarding these transistors?

Thanks 

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  425 Market Street, 26th Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 







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RE: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

2006-05-23 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I don't think Wayne and Eric necessarily need my thoughts on their
business plan...they seem to be doing quite well as it is.  However, my
two bits on future is that I would rather see a few, elegant projects
than a project for every interest.  What Elecraft has done well is to
focus on the "elegant" portion of design, from the perspective that
designs are elegant when they are simple and highly effective.  This
generally means focusing on performance and simplifying interfaces.  It
takes a lot of engineering (and cost) to create fancy interfaces that do
not improve basic performance of the receiver, transceiver or test
instrument.

So, I think the mini-modules are good ideas, but test equipment in
general is not.  As a practical matter, you can buy extremely good used
test equipment at a fraction of the original price if you want to go in
that direction.  (Ask my xyl whether it is possible for someone to buy
lots of used test equipment...)  I seriously doubt you could build an
oscilloscope kit that rivals either the Tek 7000 series or the Tek
portables for anywhere near their current prices.  Ditto for signal
generators if you include wide coverage, modulation options, precision
output and frequency control.  And then there is the calibration
issue...

And while I will continue to buy Elecraft gear (if there is a K3, I'm a
clear candidate), I also think that it is good for the amateur community
to have a variety of quality products/kits available.  If you are
interested in an swr/vector power meter, look at the LP-100 that is just
being released.  There are also some nice kits available if you are
happy with surface mount.  (Actually, I find surface mount to be pretty
straight forward, even with my 54 year old eyes and would like to have
had my KX-1 as a surface mount kit.)  I'm also quite impressed with the
Buddipole products carried by Elecraft, as well.  So, I like the
approach of Elecraft working on core projects and supporting related
projects by other designers and manufacturers.  (Buddipole, Heil)

>From my perspective, I would like to see Elecraft address performance
issues in the K2, such as the SSB board, noise blanker, and the birdies,
especially in the K2/100.  I'm looking into quieting the audio on the
K2, which may turn out to be useful.  The user interface could also use
improvement so that it doesn't require remembering button press
sequences and remembers settings across bands.  A slave receiver based
on the K2 would also be an interesting project.  I'm also probably going
to build a small linear for the KX-1 because I get very frustrated
listening to people who don't answer...  But I think that may be a
homebrew.

Summary:

1)  Elecraft is great.
2)  But the amateur community needs more than one option
3)  Elecraft should stick to "elegant" gear
4)  And support quality related products

Ok, it was 4 bits.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Fred (FL) [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 5:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

K2/K1 Owner-builders

I posted a "Elecraft New Product Ideas" email last week - which received
mixed responses - "good", "old stuff", "too difficult for Elecraft",
"done that ", "won't work", etc.

I think Elecraft is a great ham company.  And as every builder knows -
their support to us the ham community - is superb!  And their quality of
products and kits is excellent and higher.

I'd suggest, we K1/K2 builders - continue to send in "product ideas" to
Elecraft, via this email list - and let Elecraft Management know, what
product ideas we'd like to see and what product ideas might help us in
our amateur endeavors.  We might be surprised, and see some of them come
to reality.  If they have to hire another designer & tech or two, so be
it.

If you like the product(s) which Elecraft now markets and sells - I
myself, would like to continue to buy my next products from them too.
Frankly I've never been fully satisfied with MFJ items - for some reason
many of them look aluminish and of poorer quality.

BUY ELECRAFT, TELL ELECRAFT WHAT YOU'D LIKE and WHAT YOU THINK WOULD BE
HELPFUL, FOR OUR HOBBY!

My Kits - short list 5/23/2006:
- outboard RF OUTPUT METER Indicator (in-line)
- inboard RF OUTPUT INDICATOR (panel, neon/eye)
- outboard POWER METER (ala Birdy), w/SWR option
- poor man's 6146 200w PEP outboard TUBE AMPLIFIER
(relive your youth) (FCC ham-project form)
- matching Elecraft 6146 AMP POWER SUPPLY
- 200w match-anything TUNER (coils, meters, R/L/C's)
- a HF K3 TRANSCEIVER, with general coverage, 2  
meter, 440, and bigger footprint & displays
- an Elecraft K2/K3 MOBILE MIKE, w/up-down, functions
- an Elecraft quality, HEADPHONE set, K1/K2/K3
- a couple HF porta-ANTENNAs, back pack carryable
- a "hide-able" HF ANTENNA (gutter?, bush?)
- Elecraft Mobile VERTICAL ANTENNA (hf, tuneable)
- Elecraft SCOPE for alignment jobs
- Elecraft SIGNAL GENERATOR, for al

RE: [Elecraft] K2 AF noise level?

2006-05-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I thought of that, too.  However, I would like to see whether clean, full range 
audio works better on ssb.  Also, passive filtration results in some insertion 
loss.  Anyway, the point is to experiment, which is what I will be doing.  It 
would be interesting to compare the approaches.  Thanks.

Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr.
Hanson, Bridgett, Marcus, Vlahos & Rudy
425 Market Street, 26th Fl.
San Francisco, CA 94105

ph: 415.995.5073
fax:415.541.9366
e:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]



-Original Message-
From: David A. Belsley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wed 5/17/2006 3:15 PM
To: Howard W. Ashcraft
Cc: Darwin, Keith; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 AF noise level?
 
 Why not build yourself a simple low-pass audio filter?  Even a  
simple capacitor across the earbud leads will do quite a bit.  Try  
10mf or 20mf or even 50mf.  If that isn't satisfactory, a slightly  
more sophisticated single-section LC filter would sure do what you  
want.  Check the Handbook for needed values.

best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy


On May 17, 2006, at 4:43 PM, Howard W. Ashcraft wrote:

> One source of noise is in the K2 audio amplifier.  It isn't much of  
> a problem with the standard speaker since there is a built-in high  
> frequency roll off.  However, if you use very good quality earbuds  
> that were designed for music, the hiss comes through loud and  
> clear.  I like to use the buds because they block out virtually all  
> ambient noise and let me concentrate on CW.  (I need all the help I  
> can get).
>
> I have ordered some sample chips from National Semiconductor to see  
> if a low noise headphone amp will improve the situation.  I  
> probably won't get the chips for another two weeks and will have to  
> spend some time experimenting, so I probably won't be able to  
> report for a while, but will report back when I do.
>
> Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr.  W1WF
> Hanson, Bridgett, Marcus, Vlahos & Rudy
> 425 Market Street, 26th Fl.
> San Francisco, CA 94105
>
> ph: 415.995.5073
> fax:415.541.9366
> e:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> 
>
> From: Darwin, Keith [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tue 5/16/2006 6:45 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K2 AF noise level?
>
>
>
> Hey 'Crafters,
>
> I'm debating between the KAF2 or an outboard audio filter for my K2.
> Possible choices are the SCAF-1 and an Autek QF1A.
>
> My goal is to greatly reduce the hiss that is there in the headphones
> when the narrow CW filters are engaged.  I'd also like to add some CW
> selectivity.  A notch would be great too.
>
> KAF2 has the benefit of being integrated into the rig but doesn't  
> offer
> lots of flexibility.  The others are external but give you more  
> control
> over the filtering.
>
> How well does the KAF2 kill the hiss?  I assume it does great for  
> that.
> Does it add any noise back in?
>
> - Keith KD1E -
> - K2 5411 -
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
> This communication, including any attachments, is confidential and  
> may be protected by privilege.  If you are not the intended  
> recipient, any use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this  
> communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have received this  
> communication in error, please immediately notify the sender by  
> telephone or email, and permanently delete all copies, electronic  
> or other, you may have.
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> inform you that any tax advice contained in this communication  
> (including any attachments) was not intended or written to be used,  
> and cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding penalties under  
> the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, marketing or  
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-
david a. belsley
professor of economics






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RE: [Elecraft] K2 AF noise level?

2006-05-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
One source of noise is in the K2 audio amplifier.  It isn't much of a problem 
with the standard speaker since there is a built-in high frequency roll off.  
However, if you use very good quality earbuds that were designed for music, the 
hiss comes through loud and clear.  I like to use the buds because they block 
out virtually all ambient noise and let me concentrate on CW.  (I need all the 
help I can get).
 
I have ordered some sample chips from National Semiconductor to see if a low 
noise headphone amp will improve the situation.  I probably won't get the chips 
for another two weeks and will have to spend some time experimenting, so I 
probably won't be able to report for a while, but will report back when I do.
 
Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr.  W1WF
Hanson, Bridgett, Marcus, Vlahos & Rudy
425 Market Street, 26th Fl.
San Francisco, CA 94105

ph: 415.995.5073
fax:415.541.9366
e:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]



From: Darwin, Keith [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tue 5/16/2006 6:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 AF noise level?



Hey 'Crafters,

I'm debating between the KAF2 or an outboard audio filter for my K2.
Possible choices are the SCAF-1 and an Autek QF1A.

My goal is to greatly reduce the hiss that is there in the headphones
when the narrow CW filters are engaged.  I'd also like to add some CW
selectivity.  A notch would be great too.

KAF2 has the benefit of being integrated into the rig but doesn't offer
lots of flexibility.  The others are external but give you more control
over the filtering.

How well does the KAF2 kill the hiss?  I assume it does great for that.
Does it add any noise back in?

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -







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[Elecraft] Buddipole on 2m?

2006-05-05 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I am considering purchasing a buddipole from elecraft for portable hf
use. This weekend I need to set up a 2m base station to provide
communications for a local bicycle race.  The buddipole literature
indicates that it works from 2meters through hf.  Has anyone tried to
use the buddipole for 2 meter repeater work.  I'm assuming I will need
to orient the buddipole near vertically or otherwise to achieve vertical
polarization.  My real reason for wanting a buddipole is for travel with
my KX-1, or field use with the K2/100, but if it will solve the
immediate problem, it may get me moving to make the purchase!

Thanks,

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

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Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 25, Issue 5

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RE: [Elecraft] Steppir Vertical and K-2

2006-04-20 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have Steppir 40 meter vertical and I am very pleased with it.  My
worst match in any of the bands is 1.4:1 and most matches are around 1.1
or 1.2.  I do not use an antenna tuner, although I have considered
building a tuner since I have heard you can work 80m with a tuner,
although obviously not as well as if you had a proper 80 meter antenna.
My installation is on my roof, so I have two radials/counterpoises per
band on a steeply sloping roof.  If you can't put in a directional
antenna, the Steppir is a very good choice.

It "should" be completely configurable from the K2 and I believe that
others have done so.  If you look at Larry Phipps site,
www.telepostinc.com he has additional software utilities he uses with
his K2 and a Steppir antenna.  I seem to recall that either Eric or
Wayne has a Steppir vertical, so they might be able to comment as well.
You use the Kenwood command set to control the Steppir from a K2.

However, I started to configure the automatic tuning and decided not to.
First, you pick up extra noise while the antenna is moving, obscuring
weak signals.  It can take some time to go from 10 meters to 40 meters.
Yet the antenna works reasonably well on receive even if wildly off
tune.  So I often will hunt around for where I want to work without
moving the antenna and then tune the antenna to my chosen frequency
before transmitting.  This seems to be quicker than having the antenna
tune all of the time, and saves significant time when you are jumping
around between bands. If I'm not jumping between bands, I'm generally in
the lower CW segments where tuning the antenna to 7050, for instance,
covers everywhere I want to go on 40 meter CW.  (The resolution is only
50 khz, so your choices would be 7000 or 7100)  So, although I have all
of the options to allow automatic tuning, I don't use the feature.

I strongly endorse the antenna, but am ambivalent about the automatic
tuning feature.

My two bits (Ok, more like 4 bits...)

73, 

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: John Wiener [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 8:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Steppir Vertical and K-2

I just discovered the Steppir Vertical on the web.  An interesting
design: using a copper tape and step motor to vary the height of the
vertical element.  This can be controlled directly by interface with a
transceiver.

Does anyone have experience with this antenna and the K-2?  Is the
K-2 capable of controlling the step motor so that vertical length is
correctly (and automatically) varied based upon operating frequency?

Thanks!

John
AB8WH





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[Elecraft] K2, Audio Hiss

2006-03-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I was listening to 40 meters late last night (virtually no one there so
I had some time to fool around with the rig) and noticed the level of
audio hiss in the K2.  With RF gain off completely and AF gain fully
advanced, there is a fair amount of hiss.  This is also noticeable at
operating levels and is a distraction from listening to weak signals.
(obviously the operating af gain is set much lower and the hiss is also
less obvious.  Since I usually use a very good set of in ear buds, I
normally have the AF gain way down)

All audio amps will create hiss at some gain level because you are
amplifying noise that is inherent in the components.  But I'm wondering
if anyone has tried to mod the K2 to create a quieter audio amp?  This
appears to be an areas where some improvement is possible and it would
make the K2 more pleasurable to use and weak signals more easily heard.
I seem to recall from way back that we used to mod Dynaco stereo preamps
by replacing carbon resistors with low noise equivalents (usually wire
wound at the time) replacing potentiometers with gang switched low noise
resistors, etc.  Some semiconductors and ICs also have low noise
equivalents.

73
Howard Ashcraft
W1WF




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[Elecraft] OT: Looking for parts for old test equipment

2006-03-10 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I know this is OT, but the group usually has good suggestions.

I am repairing a Fluke 6080a/an signal generator.  As it turns out, in its 
prior life, someone damaged the A5 coarse loop vco board, and it looks like I 
will need a new board, not just component replacements.  There is a Tektronix 
reflector that is often helpful in finding Tek parts.  Can anyone point me to a 
usenet group or otherwise where information and parts for older test equipment, 
such as the Fluke, can be found.  I would really like to resurrect this 
generator as it mostly works, is very nicely built, and has good ergonomics.

Regards,


HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  425 Market Street, 26th Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 







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[Elecraft] OT: Fluke 6080a/an Service Manual

2006-01-29 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have searched the internet in vain looking for a Fluke 6080a/an signal 
generator service manual.  Fluke does not post this particular manual on their 
site and I have only been able to find an Ops. manual.  I am trying to restore 
a mostly functioning generator and the ops manual does not have sufficient 
information.  Any suggestions as to where a service manual might be found?  
Thanks.

Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr.  W1WF
Hanson, Bridgett, Marcus, Vlahos & Rudy
333 Market Street, 21st Fl.
San Francisco, CA 94105

ph: 415.995.5073
fax:415.541.9366
e:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]





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[Elecraft] OT: Mechanical Parts for Old HP Instruments

2006-01-27 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have an HP 3314a synthesized function generator that is in very good shape 
electrically.  However, it is missing the two front feet and the front bail.  
Does anyone know a good source or forum for getting old HP parts?  I have had 
good success in getting old Tek parts, but googling on the internet has not 
turned up a comparable source for HP equipment.  I am about to restore a Fluke 
6080A/AN signal generator, so if there is a good source for Fluke, that would 
be useful, too.

Thanks,

Howard W. Ashcraft, Jr.
Hanson, Bridgett, Marcus, Vlahos & Rudy
333 Market Street, 21st Fl.
San Francisco, CA 94105

ph: 415.995.5073
fax:415.541.9366
e:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]





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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Adjustment--Use of Test Instrumentation--AlternativeProcedures?

2005-11-11 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Don, thank you for your comments.  However, if you note my original message, I 
did not suggest purchasing test equipment for the purpose of adjusting and 
aligning the K2.  I indicated that I was accumulating test equipment to pursue 
various design and repair interests.  I agree that one can calibrate a K2 
without extensive test equipment and I have calibrated my K2/100 and my KX-1 
using the techniques suggested by Elecraft, Wayne Burdick, yourself and others 
and by all report everything works well.  (I did use a DMM, Spectrogram and an 
Ngen for the K2.)

And I also agreed, in my original posting, that you can figure all of this out 
yourself.  However, there is a benefit to having established procedures and 
published measurements and tolerances.  The technicians who calibrate my tek 
instruments presumably know what to do, but tek publishes very detailed 
procedures and tolerances in their manuals anyway.  Similar information is 
available for other equipment and radios.  Presumably there is a value to doing 
so.  The issue here is not whether one can successfully calibrate a K2 or KX1 
without instruments, but whether it is useful to publish calibration procedures 
and data for use if test equipment is available.   That is all that I was 
suggesting.

And there doesn't appear to be any harm in having alternative approaches.  Yes, 
you can calibrate the frequency of a K2 by zero beating WWV.  I was able to get 
within 20 hz by doing so.  But it took about 6 passes on two separate evenings. 
 Whether this was due to my inability to recognize a perfect zero beat, thermal 
drift from removing and replacing the K2/100 cover, or just general ineptitude 
can't be known.  However, I have seen numerous posts from others who have spent 
significant time trying to achieve the possible frequency resolution of the K2 
and have done so only after multiple passes.  It may not be more accurate to 
use a frequency counter(due to the granularity of the K2 digital/analog 
conversion), but it is quicker.  And I suspect that I could tweak some of the 
circuits (the KSB2 board comes to mind) by measuring existing performance and 
testing several of the modifications and suggestions posted or referenced on 
the reflector.

Finally, I find calibration data useful for troubleshooting.  This weekend I 
plan to work on a Tek function generator that is "a little off" in frequency 
stability.  One of the first steps I will take is to run through the 
adjustment/calibration protocol to isolate misbehaving circuitry.

So why not publish calibration data and alternative procedures?

Anyway, thanks again for your thoughts and opinions.  I appreciate all of the 
effort you and others put in helping to improve the Elecraft products and to 
assist builders with their varied problems.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF



-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu 11/10/2005 5:42 PM
To: Howard W. Ashcraft; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Adjustment--Use of Test 
Instrumentation--AlternativeProcedures?
 
Howard and all,

I must respecfully disagree.

I have built many K2s and have aligned many others, and I can state from
that experience that the test equipment required is minimal.  The techniques
in the current manual for setting the reference oscillator, especially the
technique offered by none other than Wayne Burdick himself using CAL FCTR
and alternating between TP1 and TP2 while tuned to WWV or some other known
frequency achieves superior results.

I use an accurate frequency counter, a DMM, a 'scope, and a computer loaded
with Spectrogram to accomplish all that is required for proper K2 alignment,
and even all that is not required - I consider the DMM and the computer with
Spectrogram as essential, the rest are convenience instruments (see below).
I would not use any additional equipment for the alignment tasks even if it
were available.

I happen to have acquired a frequency counter that is accurate to 10e-9 or
better, and it does the job of setting the reference oscillator easier (I do
not measure the reference directly, but compare the CAL FCTR reading
obtained at TP1 with my external counter), but is not more accurate than
checking the difference between the VFO and BFO while tuned zero beat to the
WWV carrier - I come within 20 Hz using either method.

For adjusting the bandpass filters (in transmit mode), I use my oscilloscope
to indicate the RF voltage at the antenna jack (across my dummy load).  Used
in this manner, I am only using the 'scope only as a fast responding RF
voltmeter and it allows me to see the peak more readily - this is only a
convenience for me and not any necessity - an ordinary DMM with RF Probe or
the K2 display itself would be adequate, but would not respond as quickly,
so one would have to tune the slugs and capacitors more slowly.

For aligning the filters, I have found no better or more convenient method
than Spectrogra

[Elecraft] K2 Adjustment--Use of Test Instrumentation--Alternative Procedures?

2005-11-10 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
 

The K2 Manual, and various posts to the Elecraft website or this
reflector, provide substantial information regarding K2 adjustment, c22
calibration, filters, etc.  These generally assume that one doesn't have
access to test instrumentation beyond a DMM and the frequency counter
built into the K2.  This is laudable since it has allowed me, and many
others, to build and calibrate a K2/100 without investing in an
electronics lab.  However, I have been slowly accumulating good test
equipment to pursue various design and repair interests and will soon be
going over my K2/100 and my KX1 using these tools.  It would be helpful
to have adjustment and calibration procedures available that
alternatively assume the use of test instrumentation.  Although one can
admittedly figure a lot of this out yourself, having a procedure/check
list reduces the possibility of error.  And in some instances, the
sequence of adjustment can be significant.

Since potential purchasers might be put off by reference to "set the
spectrum analyzer to" the alternative calibration procedures could
be available on the website with the primary calibration procedures
(those currently used) being contained in the manuals.  This would
reinforce the concept that the K2 can be successfully built with a
minimum of equipment.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF





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[Elecraft] OT: Oscilloscopes

2005-09-09 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I currently considering replacing my existing oscilloscope with an older Tek 
model.  Two possibilities would be a reconditioned 465b or a 475.  I am 
acquainted with the 465.  I can't find any discussion of the distinctions 
between the 465b and the 465 other than a vague statement of "improved 
electronics" and the differences in panel layout.  Other than bandwidth, the 
475 appears to be identical to the 465 and there doesn't appear to be an 
"improved electronics" b version.  Any opinions on the relative advantages and 
disadvantages of these scopes would be appreciated.  

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 







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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 S meter calibration

2005-08-25 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I believe the S9 "standard" is 50 millivolts, which is 50 microwatts at
50 ohms  [v**/50], which is -13 dbm [10*log(50uw/1mw)].  So, I would say
that +7 dbm would be your level.   As always, check the math and the
logic.  (I'm sure someone on the reflector will spot an error.)  

-Original Message-
From: Mike and Alicia Fanning [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 S meter calibration

I'm trying to calibrate the S meter on my newly finished KX1 by cheating
and using a good signal generator at work during my lunch break.  The
KX1 manual suggests using another receiver tuned to a strong (S9+20 dB)
signal as the "reference standard", and then setting the KX1 S meter to
full scale (6
bars) using this same signal as a reference.  What level should I set my
sig gen to to generate an S9+20 dB signal level?  I realize it's a
relative thing, but I don't want to put too much signal into the radio
and burn up the front end.

Thanks!
Mike, K4GU





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[Elecraft] Low/No Power on SSB

2005-07-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have a late model K2/100 that I mostly use on CW.  In the past, I have made 
successful contacts on SSB, but haven't tried for 6 months or so.  Last night, 
I was scanning the phone side of 20 meters and heard a dx station that I tried 
to contact.  He never heard me.  I then heard a local station and tried to get 
a signal report, but he could barely hear me and reported that I was dropping 
off badly.

I got suspicious and put an rf meter on the output.  On CW, key down, I get the 
full 100 watts on 20 and 40.  On SSB, when I speak loudly, I get a very short, 
low level output, that falls to nil almost immediately.  The brief output is 
reading in the 10-15 dbm range--very low--and then it drops to a few dbm.*  It 
smells like the ALC circuitry has gone south, and I will be investigating that 
in the next few days.  However, if anyone has any suggestions as what other 
sections could cause this to occur, I would appreciate the heads up.

Thanks in advance,


*I am using an uncalibrated RF power meter (PIC power meter from recent QEX/QST 
articles) through a 40db tap.  Although I need to calibrate the meter, it is 
relatively sensitive and appears to be "close" using  default settings.  In any 
event, the relative measurements, show that there is a significant problem on 
SSB but not on CW.


HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 



This communication, including any attachments, is confidential and is protected 
by privilege.  If you are not the intended recipient, any use, dissemination, 
distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you 
have received this communication in error, please immediately notify the sender 
by telephone or email, and permanently delete all copies, electronic or other, 
you may have.
To ensure compliance with requirements imposed by the IRS, we inform you that 
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) was 
not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) 
avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, marketing 
or recommending to another party any transaction or matter addressed herein.
The foregoing applies even if this notice is imbedded in a message that is 
forwarded or attached. 

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[Elecraft] OT: Calibrated Signal Generator

2005-06-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I recently built the rf  power meter discussed in the last QEX and QST
issues.  It was a fun project and works very well.  However, it needs to
be calibrated and this requires either an accurate (i.e. calibrated)
reference meter or a calibrated rf signal generator capable of -70 dbm
to +7 dbm (or somewhere close to those numbers).  Unfortunately, no one
in my local club has such equipment and several calls to possible
sources have not been fruitful.  I am located in Alameda, CA.  Does
anyone have a calibrated signal generator or know where I could get
access to one?

Thanks


Howard Ashcraft, W1WF
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[Elecraft] RE: slow CW

2005-06-09 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I don't think you want to take the speed below 10 wpm.  If you can't
copy at that speed, increase the space between the letters.  If the
letters themselves are too slow, they can be hard for others to copy.
Increasing the spacing between letters will give you time to "compose"
the next letter and will signal operators not to squirt 20 wpm back at
you

73  Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

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To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 14, Issue 10

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RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers

2005-04-15 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
The Palstar unit is based on a design developed by AmQrp, its AA-908
based on the Micro 908 platform.  The Micro908 is more flexible than the
Palstar, but the antenna analyzer circuitry is similar.  There is a
substantial reflector community for the Micro908 and the designers
monitor the reflector and are quick to respond.  The reflector archives
also have some discussion of the Palstar unit since it is a derivative
of the Micro908.  AmQrp releases the Micro908 as a kit as soon as they
can put together enough to issue.  I believe there are about 300
micro908 units in existence.

I have a later micro908 and it functions quite well.  I also use it as a
DSP with my KX-1  (It uses the same dsp board as in the K2 dsp filter.)
It is a scanning antenna analyzer and there is free software that allows
you to control the unit from a computer or a Palm PDA.  In both cases,
the scans are plotted on the computer or the PDA.  You can get more
details on the Micro908 at the www.amqrp.org.  I think they are
currently sold out, but an email would get you a reply as to when they
could be available.

Note:  the kit is virtually all surface mount components, many very,
very small.  So if you don't like handling surface mount, then you
should pass or have someone build it for you.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Larry Phipps [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 9:51 PM
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers


In addition to my professional bench gear, I have an MFJ, Autek and AEA
CIA Analyst. I use all but the Autek and AEA regularly and find they
each have a purpose. When I want a to do a quick check of resistance,
reactance, SWR or return loss on the bench I grab the AEA... especially
if I want a quick plot to go with it (using the included software and
serial connection). It is a bit too slow and definitely too heavy to
carry up the tower though.

The Autek is the one I always grab when going up the tower because it is
fast and small. It is also quite accurate. The tuning is a bit touchy as
mentioned in the article, but I find it a quite useful tool.

I don't hate the MFJ, I just like the others better. I have heard a lot
of horror stories about MFJ, but the few things I have work as
advertised.

My units may just be good ones, while others may not be as good. For
better or worse, QST tends to rate the products by the performance of
the tested unit, not anecdotal evidence or feedback from the field.

Larry N8LP



Stephen W. Kercel wrote:

> There is an interesting piece in the May 2005 QST. It has product 
> reviews on four different antenna analyzers.
>
> Two that were included are the MFJ-269 and the Autek VA-1. I have 
> heard endless horror stories from many hams about both, abysmal 
> quality control, virtually useless tech support and so on. None of 
> these negatives are mentioned in the QST product review.
>
> There is also a new product favorably mentioned in the review, the 
> Palstar ZM-30. Since the MFJ and the Autek are apparently both junk, 
> despite being favorably reviewed in this article, I'm not sure whether

> I can trust the product review on the Palstar.
>
> Anybody have any experience with it? Is it any good?
>
> 73,
>
> Steve Kercel
> AA4AK
>
>
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RE: [Elecraft] many thoughts, somewhat at random

2005-04-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Steve,

Just a comment.  Your discussion, below, was a very friendly, but solid
piece of advice to builders with little prior experience in electronic
design/troubleshooting.  Good post.

I would add that in the darkest moments of kit building you actually
learn most about what you are doing and how your equipment works.  It is
satisfying when everything fires up perfectly when the last solder joint
cools, but you really begin to understand what is going on when it
doesn't--and you have to spend a few hours (days?) pouring over the
schematic and checking readings to determine what went wrong.  In the
end (if you didn't fry anything expensive) you probably gained as much
as you lost. Something to remember when the #*#$% thing doesn't work.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Steve Jackson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 8:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] many thoughts, somewhat at random

N5VWN wrote:  
"I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out why there is no words
appearing on the K2 on the phase 1 test."

I've felt frustrated many times while building, too, and I've been at it
over 30 years.  You are not alone.
 But you've buit a Rockmite and a Pixie.  The K2 is WAAAY easier to make
work than either of those rigs.

My comments, for what they are worth:

1.  if I got a K2 for $12, in ANY condition, I'd be dancing an Irish
jig!  you're starting out WAY ahead of the game ...

2.  ... on the other hand, one of the things I have learned to probably
not try again is building a kit somebody else started!  ;)  probably
including myself, at an earlier age.

3.  Stockton alone has 7 times the number of hams in it that my ENTIRE
rural NC county does, yet there are FOUR other K2 rigs/owners here!  In
Stockton, I'd try to find a local, experienced Elmer to come by and help
in person.  There's NOTHING like learning from an expert, and NO
replacement for having a helper there, IN PERSON.  Surely, there MUST be
at least ONE local, capable, and willing Elmer, the odds are very much
in favor of it.  Stockton also has at least one well-known ham club, a
great way to find the right person.

4.  Hardly anyone ever says this, but, it should be said ... nobody
should try to build or fix an electronic *anything* without having an
ammeter in line.  The current drawn (or, not drawn) by a
device-under-test is THE #1 most telling thing about what's wrong with a
recalcitrant circuit.  If you don't have a handy ammeter, run, do not
walk, to go get one, or make one by using a 1 ohm resistor in series
with your device and then measure the voltage drop across it.  1/10th
volt equals 100 mA and so forth, that is why Ohm's Law is on the test!
A good digital voltmeter can be bought at Sears (readily
available)  and while it probably has a milliammeter in it, it's
actually easier to put the shunt in series and use the voltmeter to go
back and forth from the shunt to the circuit tests.

5.  Another ageless truism is that there's no more useful a piece of
test gear than an oscilloscope.  Of course, one would need to be taught
to use one, and you'd also have to have one ... neither are hard at all
... and this one piece of gear could make the difference between an
enjoyable hobby and a frustrating discouragement.  Consider making the
time investment (I would have said money too but these days a good used
'scope is so cheap as to be laughable).

6.  A current-limited bench supply, preferably with variable voltage and
adjustable current limiting, can be your best friend.  There are some
mighty nice used ones around I've seen at hamfests for $10 or $15, and
even a decent new one can cost as little at $45.  I just got three of
some little Chinese knockoff mini bench supply from Circuit Specialists,
for work.  They are very inexpensive and reliable.  No, they are no
threat to Lambda or HP, but, hey ...

7.  The reason I've suggested these extra goodies is that they make
things go faster and smoother.  Because I have the experience, I can
probably make do without any of them; indeed, I *have* made do without
... that is HOW I got the experience in the 1st place!  You don't
absolutely need this stuff, but, based on your QRZ! profile, it looks
like you're a budding builder. 
Take it from me, don't do things the hard way like I did (soldering with
hot nails, using strips of aluminum foil for wire, etc., I've done it
all), get some decent shop equipment and never look back.

8.  Please post some specific results of your tests so far.  For
example, "I turned it on and it doesn't work" is not nearly as useful as
"I tested the voltage at U3, pin 4 and found it to be x.y and during the
test the set is drawing about 475 mA" and so forth, to help others help
you out.  

9.  This electronic medium is not at all a good way to troubleshoot
electronic equipment, but it will do in a pinch, and you can make it
much easier by providing specifics, in detail.  Don't be afraid to write
down every det

RE: [Elecraft] kx1 hotel qrv best antenna suggestion

2005-04-05 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have had similar issues with using a random wire antenna and the KX-1.
The random wire suggested in the antenna tuner manual works for receive,
but no one hears me.  It is very frustrating to be listening to S-9+ CQs
where it is obvious that the sending station hasn't a clue I'm around.

I have worked successfully with an MP-1 Superantenna, which can be
connected to balcony railings, but I find that it works best if I use an
antenna analyzer to pre-tune the antenna. I also use the KX-1 mostly for
travel, so a good "hotel" arrangement would be very useful.

By the way, I use the Micro908 Antenna Analyzer kit from AMQRP.  Since
it also works as an audio DSP filter (same DSP unit as the K2), I can
use it for audio dsp with the KX-1 once I have adjusted the antenna.  It
works very nicely to reduce the ambient noise levels and gives you lots
of filter choices.

Howard Ashcraft W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Sergej Kindsvater DF6MU [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 4:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] kx1 hotel qrv best antenna suggestion

hey KX1 users out there: what would be the ultimate hotel room antenna
(that can be accomodated in laptop bag)? maybe a loop of some kind?

I am always flabbergasted by the reports from kx1 users as to what
everything they are able to achieve when using kx1 with a random wire,
working from a park bench or similar...

I have completed my kx1 something like a half a year ago and being a
frequent traveller I am since taking it with me on every business trip. 
Till today not a single qso with a random wire out of a hotel room.

I am currently in Yugoslavia. This time an old hotel, no beton walls, no
BPL, fourth floor (Hotel Moskva in Belgrade), 10 meter long wire out of
the window facing the Balkanska Ulic, two same length  wires serve
counterpose in the room- and my first qso with this setup, wkd UR5IF,
qrb abt 1500 kms, not bad! Mike himslef has been running inly 5W into a
LW.

One other thing: when I am usisng an indoor antenna and a switching
power supply,  that worked well for FT817, I am getting three S units
more noise, ferrite rings won't help. Thought maybe I should use those
12v 3300 mAh NiMh Racing battery packs people use for the plane models. 
Any opinion? Any airport security experience?

many thanks

Sergej DF6MU

PS KX1 is good thing to brag about: recently in Tel Aviv I happened to
have a breakfast at a hotel beside two hams from Ohio also on business
there, heard them talking, engaged in a conversation and impressed  them
while having produced my Kx1 in a Pelicase 1060 out of my laptop bag
right there!


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[Elecraft] A minor C22 question

2005-01-03 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz as 
the zero beat reference.  This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and each 
time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.  
However, when I put the cover back on the K2/100 I find that WWV zero beats a 
few tens of hz off.  (After last night's adjustment, the zero beat was 
1.03)  One should expect to be +- 10 hz as that is the finest resolution of 
the VCO, but it would be nice to get a little closer.  

The unit was thoroughly warmed before adjustment although there may be some 
temperature difference between having the cover on and having the cover off.

This is hardly a big deal, but I wonder whether others manage to get an exact 
setting or whether this is a process that you repeat until you finally nail the 
adjustment.

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 


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[Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer Opinions?

2004-12-27 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I would be interested in any experience/opinions with antenna analyzers.  .  I 
have read the E-Ham reviews and see mixed reviews on Autek and MFJ analyzers, 
mostly relating to build quality.  AEA units are more favorably rated, but also 
more expensive.  Does anyone have experience with the Micro 908 Antenna 
Analyzer kit?  Thanks.

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 



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RE: [Elecraft] OT-Preserving CW memories

2004-12-11 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have no personal memories as I am a relatively recent amateur.
However, when I was growing up, one of our family friends was Thomas
Roberts, a Captain for Pan American Airways.  Tom got his start in the
airline industry as a radio operator on the China Clippers.  As I
recall, and others will probably be able to verify some of this, the
commercial news services used to transmit high speed code.  I don't know
what speed they used, but I recall that it was mechanically generated
and very fast.  He, and others of his generation, were able to copy the
news broadcasts by ear.  I can recall him pounding on a typewriter
copying code and having the transmission stop well before he stopped
typing.  He never could type as fast as he could copy.

As I can copy about 13-15 wpm under ideal conditions, I can only imagine
what it must have been like copying code on the China Clippers with
early radios and lots of electrical and mechanical noise from the plane,
itself.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Thom R. Lacosta [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 3:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT-Preserving CW memories

>From time to time I make a post reminding folks that there's a web site

>where
the content comes from a submarine radio operator
(www.zerobeat.net/submarine) .

I'd love to do a similar site with the memories and stories of folks who
made their living pounding brass, whether aboard ship, at a Coast
Station, Police Communications, Railroard or other venues.

Yep...it appears that hardly anyone does any of the above now, and I'd
like to preserve your memories on the web so that those of use that use
and enjoy cw have a frame of reference other than amateur radiowhen
you're not around, you'll take those memories with you.

If ya have a mind to, drop me an emailI'll be happy to turn it into
HTML and devote as much space on the server as it takes to tell the
story of the magical music.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free
Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners
Database
www.tlchost.net/  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month

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[Elecraft] K2 S meter

2004-11-18 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I set up my K2 S meter per the manual.  It appeared to work "normally" with S9+ 
readings on loud signals.  I then borrowed an X-gen and used it to "calibrate" 
the S-Meter readings.  The "calibrated" settings were much lower than the "per 
manual" settings, i.e., a signal that was S-9 would read, after calibration, 
about S-5 or 6.  I don't have a method for measuring the X-gen output.  I do 
know that the K2 easily picks up the 1 uv low signal used for sensitivity 
testing.  I will probably just go back to the earlier settings, but I was 
wondering if anyone else had a similar experience?





HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 

This communication, including any attachments, is confidential and is protected 
by privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any use dissemination, 
distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you 
have received this communication in error, please immediately notify the sender 
by telephone or e-mail, and permanently delete all copies, electronic or other, 
you may have. The foregoing applies even if this notice is embedded in a 
message that is forwarded or attached.


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[Elecraft] Circuit Simulation Software

2004-11-17 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I am looking for software (preferably Linux, open source) to model electronic 
circuitry.  My primary interest is educational.  I want to use the software to 
design and investigate circuits to better understand how they work.  I may do a 
little design, as well.  Does anyone have suggestions?

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 

This communication, including any attachments, is confidential and is protected 
by privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any use dissemination, 
distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you 
have received this communication in error, please immediately notify the sender 
by telephone or e-mail, and permanently delete all copies, electronic or other, 
you may have. The foregoing applies even if this notice is embedded in a 
message that is forwarded or attached.


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[Elecraft] K6XX Tuning Indicator

2004-11-04 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I assembled the SMD kit last evening and installed in in my K2/100.  It
all went smoothly, even though this was my first experience soldering
SMD components.  Strong reading glasses help.

I had a similar tuning feature on a Yaesu 897.  But it never worked very
well and was reliable only on strong, clear signals where assistance
wasn't needed.  In contrast the K6XX works very well on a wide variety
of signals.  When the indicator is steady, I can pop into my tightest
filters and the signal is centered.  Moreover, tuning with the indicator
is significantly faster than tuning by spot tone/ear. (for my skill
level)

Thanks to Tom Hammond N0SS for putting the kit together.  It is a fun
and useful "mod."


HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 



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[Elecraft] K2/100 RS232--No connection between radio and computer.

2004-09-06 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I can't seem to get the RS232 data port to work on the K2/100.  There is no 
communication between the radio and either a computer or my Steppir antenna 
controller.  I have:

1)  Checked the cabling for pin connections, continuity and shorts.  I built 
another cable, just to check.
2)  Checked all components in the RS232 circuit for correctness.
3)  Checked all solder joints in the RS232 or connecting circuits.
4)  Checked the resistance across the RFChokes for an open connection/broken 
wire.
5)  Checked the setting for the sidetone to assure it wasn't misset.
6)  Tried using hyperterminal and Elecraft's control software.
7)  Confirmed that the laptop's serial port was available and operating.

Everything else in the K2/100 works fine.

Any suggestions?

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
W1WF

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Bias Setting

2004-08-31 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
The KPA100 manual indicates that the current during bias setting will rise and 
that you should set the bias level based on current draw when you initially 
push "tune", not when the current level settles.  On my KPA100, the current 
level rises very quickly after pressing "tune" making it difficult to determine 
what the "initial" value was.  Repeating the measurement many times arrived at 
a setting when the rig was placed in "tune" that was relatively close to my 
calculated value.  However, it was a touchy setting.

One probably doesn't need to get a bias setting perfect, because you are trying 
to place the bias +- signal in the linear range on the transistor, but I would 
like to assure that my experience on bias setting is normal for KPA100s.  BTW, 
the K2/100 works fine at all power levels and gets good signal reports.


HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
W1WF
 
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Toroids T2-T3

2004-08-26 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have completed the KSB2 board and everything seems to be working OK, but I am 
somewhat disappointed with the look of Toroids T-2 and T-3 and am considering 
pulling them and rewinding.  The problem is that the toroids wound fine, but 
when the are installed on the board, the pc board holes are sufficiently far 
from the leads coming off the toroid that the windings get pulled out of shape. 
 Off the board, the windings have a nice interleaving of red and green wire.  
On the board, the green wires partially ride over the red and some of the red 
wires cross over each other in order to fit the pc board.  Is there a way to do 
a neater job?  Should I care if it seems to tune up correctly?

73

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr. W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 RX Sensitivity on 20M vs 30M, 40M

2004-08-20 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Yes.  I also get less change (as compared to 30m and 40m) when changing RF 
gain.  I have also noticed (as predicted by Elecraft) that the KX1 is sensitive 
to your choice of headphones.

-Original Message-
From: Michael Babineau [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2004 8:51 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 RX Sensitivity on 20M vs 30M, 40M


Have others noticed less RX sensitivity on the KX1 on
20M as compared to 40M and 30M?

I recall that this was noted in the QRP Quarterly review
of the KX1 a little while back and I have also noticed this
on my own rig, so I am guessing that this is normal.

Sensitivity is still sufficient on 20M but requires
cranking the AF Gain a little higher on 20M
than the other bands to get a similar signal
volume.

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. This came to my attention again last night as I had
to realign the Rig after finally getting around to installing
the 30M module. BTW For such a little board the KXB30
was a real pain in the you-know-where to install!

P.P.S I also put the Elecraft supplied sticker over the opening
on the KXPD1 and it now looks much better !


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[Elecraft] K-2 PLL Reference Oscillator woes

2004-08-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
The PLL is not oscillating--there is no frequency at TP3.  It is not the 
frequency counter.  The counter accurately reads the BFO and one side of 
crystal X1.

I have checked all of the components in the oscillator (all correct, proper 
polarities) and have checked (many, many times) for any evidence of cold 
joints, bridges, etc.--everything is clean.  The thermistor board looks very 
good, and to the extent possible (resistance measurements) checks out.  The 
voltages on Q 19 are correct, and I can read a frequency (slightly fluctuating) 
on the side of X1 connected to L31. The other side of the crystal is dead.  
Everywhere in the circuit shows voltages, but no frequency--all the way to TP3.

One thought I would appreciate comments on:  Both of the diodes, D-16 and D-17, 
when measured in place, show a resistance of 16.35 k between their pins, 
regardless of polarity.  Seemed odd, so I checked another ISV149 diode (D-21) 
and found that it exhibited a resistance of 25.4 M in one direction, and had an 
infinite resistance in the other direction.  I know that measuring components 
"in circuit" can lead to erroneous results, and I could be measuring a 
resistance through RP2, but it seems odd that the resistance would be the same 
in both directions and is inconsistent with the measurement of D-21.  Does it 
look like the diodes are bad?

Any other thoughts on why the PLL is dead?

Thanks.

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
W1WF

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[Elecraft] KX-1 S Meter

2004-07-30 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
My KX-1 works like a charm, except... The S-Meter does not read accurately and 
does not calibrate.  If I set it to no induction when there is no signal, then 
I get little or no indication with a signal.  If I set it for a s-9 signal 
(using an injected S-9 signal) to peak the meter, then it reads several bars 
when there is no activity.  It doesn't affect operations, but it is annoying.  
Is this normal?  Do others have this experience?  Any thought why this might 
react this way?
 
Thanks,

HOWARD ASHCRAFT
W1WF
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[Elecraft] KAF2 v. KDSP2

2004-07-22 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I am planning on purchasing a K2 for general use (SSB and CW) with a current 
preference for CW.  (I enjoy working on CW although I'm not very good.)  My 
preferences may change as my experience grows, so flexibility is important.  
The question is, why would you want to have the KAF2 instead of the KDSP2?  
From querying the archives, it seems that the KAF2 is primarily used for CW and 
is effective for that use.  Is the KDSP2 less effective for reducing unwanted 
noise on CW, or is it equally effective but more costly.  I assume that 
Elecraft continues to sell the KAF2 because it either has a performance 
advantage in some niche or is less costly and works for certain uses (such as 
CW).
 
Thanks for the advice,
 
Howard Ashcraft
W1WF
 
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[Elecraft] MP-1 Antenna KX-1

2004-07-13 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
I have recently tried an MP-1 antenna with my KX-1.  I used the small tripod 
mount and adjusted the antenna per the diagrams.  However, this led to a SWR of 
5.9.  By moving the coil, I was able to lower the SWR to 2.0--but no lower.  
And it was exceptionally sensitive to adjustment.  Moving the coil by a single 
turn of wire would jump the SWR to 2.0.  In comparison, the KX-1 tunes on my 
Steppir IR vertical to no worse than 1.2 (with the autotuner engaged), tunes 
reasonably well on a 40 meter dipole, and tunes well with the random wire 
recommended by Elecraft.  Is my experience with the MP-1 similar to others?
 
Howard Ashcraft
W1WF
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