Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"
I just have to chime in. How about an infra red key interface so our wonderful bugs, simplex and iambic paddles can have tiny attached infra red LEDs to make them "wireless"? Help eliminate the wire clutter on the desk. Jozef WB2MIC Donald Rasmussen wrote: So we've got the K3 copying code, and another sending the code from memories in perfectly spaced "swing". ! Next request - a WiFi interface at the K3 so it can email each of the operators with the contents of the QSO. Ah what the heck, I'll just send an email... ;-) [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" Thom LaCosta lacosta at bc Fri Sep 7 17:17:49 EDT 2007 Previous message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" - ACS Next message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" On Fri, 7 Sep 2007, Chris wrote: and Automatic Character Spacing, please. I'd like auto dot and manual dashunless of course we could have a swing option. 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Contest QTH
Lucky man. Me too! We live on 16 acres in the hills of rural Vermont (past 22 years). There is an antenna farm including tower and tribander. Wife, JeanneE, helped me put in 40 radials for the 40 meter 1/4 wave vertical. The longest is 250 feet! Some at 128 feet, etc. She even suggested that the new electric dog fence which is a 975 loop one inch under the grass and under the inverted-L be flipped with a switch from loop antenna to shorted )disconnected from the fence TX) and grounded counterpoise. Ah, and then there is the great callsign she has. JeanneE is KA1PMS. And the kids are Guinnevere KA1ZWK, and Dylan N1UKP. The club call is W1PAZ. With the new (Feb 2007) very easy no-CW ham U.S. exams the two dogs are considering getting their ham tickets. Jozef WB2MIC J F wrote: Hi David, I married into the contest QTH ;o) It puts a little strain on the finances, but what ham would turn down a couple acres in the country for antennas?? I'm so bloody fortunate, she even helps with the antennas and radials! Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber toX post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Mt. Saint Helens
Happy to listen for you. Would that be 20 meters and what frequency(ies) would you be hanging around? Jozef WB2MIC Karl Anderson wrote: Hi Folks, I'll be operating my K2 tomorrow morning at the Johnson Ridge Observatory on Mt. Saint Helens in Washington State. My location will be about 3 miles from where Gerry Martin, W6TQF perished after he provided the first radio transmission that the mountain was erupting. Time of operation will be approx. 1600Z-1900Z or 9am-12pm local time. If you have a moment, please listen for me. 73, Karl NM7N- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT. RF (invisible) dog fence.
Yes indeed. This is a concern. That said, the plan was not leave the dogs in the fenced area unattended. Just to give them enough room for a good run three times per day without taking off on us. Thanks for the replies both on and off the list. Jozef WB2MIC Thom LaCosta wrote: On Thu, 16 Aug 2007, Jim Brown wrote: On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:14:06 -0400, Jozef Hand-Boniakowski wrote: and RFI from the dog fence I would think the other concern/monitor might be the dogas I understand the fences, the dog receives a shock from the collar when it gets too close/goes over the boundry line created by the fence. If your transmitted signal sets off the collar, the dog will be unhappy. Not sure what would make the dog the unhappiest, SSB or CW. 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT. RF (invisible) dog fence.
If anyone has had any experience with invisible RF dog fences please drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am concerned about RF getting into the dog fence and RFI from the dog fence. TNX. 73, Jozef WB2MIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline
I have been using TruValue twin lead at $14/100 feet for the past 4 years on both my G5RV and my 40 meter loop. Works just fine. Best bargain around. Since I only need 40 feet on either antenna, if it goes bad, I just use the other half of what is left with some to spare. Jozef WB2MIC PS. The antenna wire is leftover electric fence wire now over 22 years old. Cost per antenna per year is quite low. :) Robert Tellefsen wrote: Thom There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead. Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy conductors. Some are good quality. There is/was at least one version that was suitable for transmitting (power level not stated that I can recall). If you have some of the good quality stuff, you can probably do 100w just fine. I'd watch out for the skimpy stuff, though. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: "Thom LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:26 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead... Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway. I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at 100 watts. Thanks 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Keying contacts
A single sheet of white paper cut into strips placed between the contacts with some pressure on the paddle while you pull through will clean the contacts without damage. Run a strip a few times through an you will see the results. I use just under the amount of pressure that rips the paper. Jozef WB2MIC John H Gibson wrote: On the topic of keys, paddles, and bugs, I wonder if members of the list would tell me how they keep key contacts clean and reliable. Do you regularly burnish key contacts? Do you use a chemical cleaner (e.g. de-oxit)? Do you maintain a minimum keying current? Or do you simply never have a problem? Please share your wisdom and experience. 73, John, no8v ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic: Manhattan Style Construction
Here's what I do I use double sided PC board material. I design the Manhattan style PC board I want on paper with the islands or buildings (squares and rectangles for pads) clearly defined making sure that the spacing between the components I am going to solder is correct. I then use good quality tin snips or hacksaw and cut out the islands or buildings from more double sided PC board material. I transfer the pattern from paper to a PC board so I know where the pads will go. I then use Krazy Glue to glue the pads down with one or two very small drops. I then solder the parts from pad to pad or pads to the ground plane. Jozef WB2MIC Ken Kopp wrote: Check sheet-metal drills at a machine tool supply house.. Their points specifically produce the circles you want. The tip and the OUTER edge of the cutting face contact the metal at the same time. I can send you a photo of one if you need. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 21st century connectivity
Satellite broadband is available most everywhere in the USA. Our daughter lives in Glover VT which is about as rural and out of the way as you can get. She is content with the broadband that she has. See: http://www.4wildblue.com Jozef WB2MIC Kevin Rock wrote: Currently I have a 21.6 Kbps connection to the Internet. Sometimes it gets as fast as 26.4 Kbps! The nearest broadband connection is 20 miles away. I have no hope they will ever bring cable, fiber, or WiMAX to anywhere close enough to effect my connection speed. A one megabyte attachment chokes my email system for about fifteen minutes. Larger files? Hopefully I can maintain a connection overnight or it is no use even trying. Luckily I do drive into Portland, Oregon where they do have faster connections so I take a hard drive along and all the URLs I've collected over the week so I can grab the files. No, broadband connections are not available in all locations. The U.S. has a long way to go to catch up with Japan, Korea, or Denmark. Kevin. KD5ONS -Original Message- From: Lyle Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Jul 25, 2007 7:42 PM To: Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: 21st century assembly "manual" The reality is that many of us are confined to dial-up and always will be. (;-( Say it isn't true! Can't you get BPL, the answer to everything, in your area? Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] that Drake or Collins cost
My parents bought me a Swan 400 when I passed my general at age 14 in January 1964. I went from WN2MIC to WB2MIC and CW at 13 wpm was a piece of cake. That rig with no bells and whistles was $1,000 new. Inflate that over 44 years! Rigs today are a bargain, and feature packed, by comparison. I must say, however, that I thoroughly enjoyed the 320 watts DC on CW and 400 PEP on SSB. It was new teen ham's delight to operate. BTW, my novice station was a Hallicrafters HT40 (I still have one) and a Lafayette HE30 receiver. I now use the HT40 along with a Collins R390A for kicks every once in a while. And then I run the K1 or IC-756 PRO III. All great fun. Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 7/24/07 11:35:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: basic Drake 2B receiver without the Q-multiplier was $279. Using the Bureau of Labor Statistics inflation calculator, that is the equivalent of $1875 in 2007 Lessee - that's about the price of a bare-bones K3 or a fully-loaded K2/100, isn't it? And the 2B wasn't considered a top-of-the-line receiver in its time! One big cause of its popularity was that it was considered *inexpensive* for the performance and features you got for $279. And it was, even though it wouldn't transceive and the basic 2B did not include 160 meters, a calibrator, a noise blanker (it had a limiter), the Q multiplier, nor even a built-in speaker IIRC. A 2B was far beyond my means back in the day. 73 de Jim, N2EY ** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Hate the word "ham"
Sorry: Nonsense. The ability to talk via ham radio overseas, Norway. etc., is "indeed unique" when you can consider that no hardware corporate, nor any other, infrastructure is necessary to achieve the task. Shut down the cell-phone infrastructure and/or the Internet and communications stops. Ham radio communications cannot be shut down without broad spectrum high power jamming. Ham radio communications would continue. And that, may I suggest, is what makes "ham radio" so special. I don't need anything other than the "ether" between my rig and the other guy/gal. Jozef WB2MIC Cathy James wrote: W2AGN wrote: "The term "Ham Radio" has been used at least for 75 years, possibly more. Most of us "old-timers" are proud to be Hams. But then, we took "real" exams and even, back in the olden days, had to pass a Morse Code test. (After walking barefoot in the snow 5 miles to the FCC examiner, of course). "Perhaps the term "Ham Radio" has become outmoded, with the new trends in Amateur Radio, no more code test, memorized exams, etc. So maybe we should "repackage" ourselves. "I know! Why don't we call it "Citizen's Band?" (CB for short)." John, I know you are using some irony here ("barefoot in the snow..."), and I don't offend easily, but I have to same that we "new" hams (first licensed 1991 in my case) get a little tired of the endless litany of "you young whippersnippers ain't as good as us" that is often heard from old-timers on the Net. (Interesting, I don't think I've ever heard it in person or on the air. I don't use 75 meters, and it doesn't seem to be common on other bands.) I mean, c'mon, I have an engineering degree (albeit not EE), an Extra, routinely ragchew at 16-18 wpm CW, my shack is full of kits I've built, I build complex antennas from scratch (two Moxons so far), and I'm studying RF theory as time permits in hope of eventually designing and building my own rigs. Yet there is a group of hams that will never consider me their equal because I didn't take the same exam they did in front of an FCC examiner and never passed a CW test higher than 5 wpm. Give it a rest! NZ0R wrote: "In terms of its reputation and usefulness, ham radio seems stuck in the 50's to me. Technology-wise it's pretty up-to-date but for the most part it's a quaint throwback to simpler times. The name "ham" may be odd and embarrassing, but people do know what it means." Craig, I fully agree that in many ways ham radio is stuck in the 1950's. I'm not quite sure why or what to do about it. The world has changed, the culture has changed, and we have to change with it or we will disappear. Certainly the ability to talk to someone in Norway or New Zealand is no longer unique with the rise of the Internet, and cellphones have replaced some of the uses of HT's and other VHF operations. We need to focus on the things that can't be done in consumer-land, such as building and tinkering with hardware and software, experimenting at the edge of today's knowledge, and providing emergency services. N5IB wrote: "Our Louisiana call letter plates have the legend "Ham Operator." Very interesting! I've lived in many states and traveled through most, and the vast majority use "Amateur Radio" on their license plates. Cathy N5WVR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Hate the word "ham"
Agreed. Me too, by the way. My Elmer was W2FVB, Walter Muller. In my 33 year high school teaching carrier, not one student ever made fun of the term ham. I taught a ham radio class for science credit (for graduation) that met daily, but you had to have acquired a callsign to get the credit. No kid ever made fun of me being their Elmer, however, many remember their Elmer fondly like I remember mine As a 14 year old know it all teenager, I had no problem telling my peers that I was a "ham". No one ever made fun of me. Quite the contrary. We are what we think, and, what we think, we project. Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED],net wrote: I certainly agree with Jozef. There is something called tradition. We are "hams," and should be proud of that title. It took much effort in days past, unlike today. When I recieved my Extra class license it meant something other than the fact of successfully memorizing some answers. We now have Extra class "operators." The FCC changed "ham radio" in order to get more numbers. Never mind quality, let's have numbers. Never mind the traditions. By the way I do remember my Elmer from 1956. Mike K4ELV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Hate the word "ham"
I always remember wanting to be a "Ham". I have now been a ham for 43 plus years having acquired WN2MIC in 1963. It is a respectful term as well as one of endearment, in my opinion. If the public at large is unfamiliar with or find the term "ham" as odd or unusual, then I suggest an opportunity has opened to educate them. Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'll offer a comment here... I beleive that the phrase "ham radio operators" carries more recognition with the public than "amateur radio operators." At least here along the hurricane coast if you tell someone your hobby is amatuer radio you might get a quizzical look, but if you say you're a ham operator they tend to perk up and say somethig like "Oh, like the guys who helped out after Katrina?" The news media usually refers to "reports via ham radio operators" and similar words. Our Louisiana call letter plates have the legend "Ham Operator." To that end, the magnetic signs we are making to put on vehicles when we are doing public service communications at events will read - (with BRARC Club and ARRL logos) Baton Rouge Amateur Radio Club HAM RADIO COMMUNICATIONS - 73, Jim, N5IB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Regarding electric fence wire
Agreed. However, at $0.00 for antennas that have worked 228 DXCC entities since January 1, 2005, I'd say such antennas are a good bargain, and, work well enough. Jozef WB2MIC Ken Kopp wrote: RF travels on and/or near the surface of a conductor. The plating on fence wire tarnishes / corrodes rapidly and therefore isn't the best choice for antenna wire. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1: antenna wire
FWIW. And for those big loops! TruValue (Granville NY) was selling #17 electric fence wire for $22.99 for a 1/2 mile. #14 for a 1/4 mile was $29.99. I have a 40 meter loop I made with scraps of the #14 put together using wire nuts and homemade PVC insulators. It has been up for years and the wire is over 20 years old. I took it off the fence posts when we first moved in 1985. I'm still using it, but almost gone now. Jozef WB2MIC Paul - VE1DY wrote: Hi Mike, I'd use any old wire you can find at a good price. Home Depot must have something, and I wouldn't bother with the double binding post at all. I prefer alligator clips. You can see what I use on my KX1 web page: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike/csway.html Good luck, Paul ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Offensive
Didn't offend me. I have a delete button that is easy enough to use. Jozef W2AGN wrote: Well, I apparently have offended one of the folks on the list, who advises me I am a "sarcastic malcontent," due to my earlier post in reference to the rather odd topics that seem to have taken over the Elecraft List, such as: 1. English (idioms and vernacular) 2. The Best handi-talky 3. RST S meter readings 4. The Woodpecker and of course the classic "Signing /QRP" So sorry if my ignorance has caused me to fail to recognize the relationship of the above to Elecraft products. It was pointed out to that 'Signing /QRP" is on topic since Elecraft makes QRP radios, and the Subject is /QRP? therefore it is relevant. Therefore since many of us speak English into our Elecraft microphones, #1 above is also on topic. Handi talkies are usually QRP, so there';s #2. Of course the K2 and K3 have S-meters, so that takes care of #3. #4 is a bit more difficult, but I am sure it is obvious to my critic. So sorry, carry on, as they say. As you were. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] flagrantly OT: name of WWII comedian who "...could teach Morse code to a dog...."?
I believe the character he played was "Sergeant Bilko", if memory serves me -- with big dark rimmed glasses and a balding head. Jozef WB2MIC Stan Rife wrote: Was that Phil Silver Not sure if he was 40's era or not, but I used to watch him back in the 50's on TV when I was a kid. Stan Rife W5EWA wayne burdick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I heard this very funny piece on NPR a couple of years ago about a 40's-era comedian who did skits about military life. In one skit he played a radio-class instructor disgusted with a new class of underachieving recruits who were there to learn the code. He chastised them for not studying while bragging that he could teach anyone the code, even "a dog," which cracked up the studio audience (or, I'm not sure which, prompted the laugh-track operator to open it up all the way). Being not quite 50, I wasn't there. I bet a few of you were :) I couldn't find his name with a web search. Anyone have a clue? tnx Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"
Yes. And, this is the FISTS 10th anniversary this year. To celebrate FISTS is offering the 20/20 award. Your work 20 FISTS for 20 minutes each (at least) in each of the 12 months during 2007. The first month you get the certificate and and sticker for that month (say January). Then for each successive month you do it again and get another stick (for that month). Get all twelve (20 QSOs X 20 minutes per month X 12 months) and you get plaque for the anniversary award. To allow late comers to get the plaque, you get a free month sticker for any two consecutive months the feat is achieved. These can be used for missed months. The conversations have been wonderful. See awards at http://www.fists.org 73, Jozef FISTS 12313 CC 1875 Sandy wrote: Can't agree with you more Ron! I think I've had more polite QSO's with QRPers than other random contacts. Another bunch that will spend some good QSO time with you other than the: "Good meeting you", RST, QTH, "Op", 73 QSO, is the FISTS group. Way too many fellows these days who plain don't want to "talk" and "ragchew" on CW. I have run into a lot of "shooters", pilots, ship operators accidently while laying out fragments of my "bio" on CW QSO's. I feel VERY uncomfortable getting a 589/599 report when running 5 watters, then finding out the guy on the other end, who is maybe 349 or 459 is running 100 watts! 72/72, Sandy Mostly W5TVW/QRP - Original Message - From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 1:47 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP" Well, there's the huge difference between us Mike. I call "W3XYX W3XYZ W3XYZ DE AC7AC AC7AC AC7AC/QRP" ;-) Same for CQ. My thinking is that if hearing the /QRP is going to confuse anyone, I want them to get the call right first. As for a QRP signal being 'tiny', it all depends upon conditions. Digging out weak signals can be fun. I do it out of habit. I find I'm digging "in the mud" for a 100 watt or greater signal at least as often as a QRP signal. I've given and received lots of 579 to 599 reports and enjoyed long, long rag chews when we're both running 5 watts or less to suggest that QRP is not a all a tiny signal when conditions are right. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Ron & all, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: ...I hope the intrepid operators who love to promote their operating interests will never stop signing /QRP... I share some of the feelings of both camps regarding signing or not signing using /QRP. As a result, I use a combination. I generally call by txing: cq cq cq de ab3ap/qrp ab3ap ab3ap I put the "/QRP" in early so the responding op doesn't feel obligated to resend it back to me, send it only once because it takes time, but send it more than not at all so listeners know what that tiny signal is. For what it's worth, Mike ab3ap _ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.14/845 - Release Date: 6/12/2007 6:39 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re:Signing /QRP
Simply put: when I call CQ and I have multiple stations respond, I give preference to the station that is the weakest or who signs /QRP which is not always one and the same. Jozef WB2MIC Dave Sergeant wrote: On 12 Jun 2007 at 4:03, GM4SLV wrote: As far as I can read in our regs there's nothing to prevent adding /QRP to one's callsign. As long as your "basic" call is given correctly then anything else is allowed in a QSO - tagging /QRP to the end seems to me to be just part of the rest of the QSO. It's splitting hairs to worry about the difference between "GM4SLV/QRP" and "GM4SLVQRP" and (when I'm sending!!) "GM4SLV/QRP" But I see the comment earlier that US FCC licences specifically have a clause allowing you to add your self assigned suffixes, which does indicate it is legal in the USA. I know of no other licence administration which has this and it is certainly not the case in the UK. The only suffixes our standard licence allows (and which is now optional) are /P, /A and /M - and if you have the appropriate licence /MM and /AM (but aeronautical mobile is to all intents and purposes never licenseable in the UK). Any other suffixes are by implication not allowed. I now have 220 countries worked on QRP and have NEVER put a /QRP on my call. I only ever say G3YMC QRP (no /) towards the end of a QSO with another QRP station, and normally don't even mention that I am QRP until well into the QSO when I give details of the rig. It is absolutely never justified in contests/pileups and as far as I am concerned /QRP is never part of any callsign and never gets logged or acknowledged by me. As for calling weak signals and hoping they will come back, I have just had three QSOs with FY/G3SXW and FY/G3TXF. In each case their signal was just above the noise and I would normally never even think it worth calling. But since I know Roger and Nigel I decided to have a go. In each case he came back after just one or two calls through the pileup (and the usual 599...). Never underrate your ability to work weak stations on QRP... 73 Dave G3YMC http://www.davesergeant.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Where R made ? "Power Pole"
I must chime in a bit. If workers were not pitted one against the other, and if they received the same renumeration for their wage-power everywhere, then they would not be exploited. Some may rest content that their consumer products are produced in slave like conditions. I do not. The CEOs on the other hand, receive obscene wages for what they actually produce: very little or nothing. It's not that "Laborers in the US and the UK do not necessarily do a job that is enough better to justify a higher wage than someone in India or China", rather, it's that one group can be easily exploited and the other cannot. For the time being, anyway. Next on the neo-liberal agenda: outsourcing CEOs to Rwanda! Jozef WB2MIC Brian Lloyd wrote: On Jun 10, 2007, at 8:10 AM, Julian G4ILO wrote: Unfortunately, by the time we're all out of work or employed in the tourist industry looking after the Chinese on their holidays, it will be too late to realise the folly of seeing no further than bigger profits and lower prices. We live in a global economic market and the formula is simple: make a better product for the same price or the same quality product for a lower price. People of the western world for the most part have an over-inflated estimate of the value of their labor. . Want more money and/or more business? Learn to do something that has more value in the market. And, yes, it *is* about bigger profits and lower prices. But it is also about creating new things too. There are exceptional people who do the groundbreaking work. They cannot be replaced by a generic college graduate with a master's degree or a PhD no matter how 'learned' the latter are. These are not the people working for big companies. The goal is to find the few people who are in this creative class and work with them to create new things. Once the designs are well established you can turn them over to a generic PhD EE. BTW, the reason everyone here likes the Elecraft products is that Elecraft consists of a collection of that small group of people in that exceptional category, i.e. the people who really think and make new things. 73 de Brian, WB6RQN Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: balun rating exceeded
Hello John: Tnx much for the reply. The G5RV is as straight as gravity will allow and the 450 ohm line is indeed perpendicular to the flattop. I use a Palomar 1500CV with it and it works well. That said, I prefer my 33 ft 40 meter vertical with 37 radials and the 40 meter loop. Jozef WB2MIC John Magliacane wrote: --- Jozef Hand-Boniakowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: A few years back I bought a Buxcom G5RV and running 600 watts into it, the balun that it came with was toast. I replaced it with 10 turns of coax wrapped around a Folger's coffee can. So, you replaced the balun you normally use with New Folger's Crystals. :-) Seriously though, I've given this situation a lot of thought, and I'm not thoroughly convinced an unshielded choke located in the nearfield of a radiating structure would necessarily attenuate currents flowing on the outside of the transmission line's shield. I think even a perfectly functioning, perfectly shielded balun *at the antenna feedpoint* might be somewhat moot unless the dipole is perfectly straight, and the feedline is run exactly perpendicular to the dipole (to equalize coupling to either side of the antenna). By the same token, I've often wondered just how "balanced" a balanced feedline really is under similar circumstances. Maybe twisting the line might help improve transmission line balance. Maybe using a tuner that can compensate for any voltage/current imbalance might be advantageous, as well. There are many complicating factors when it comes to antenna installation and operation. Fortunately, few, if any, turn out to be of much significance in the grand scheme of things... 73, de John, KD2BD Visit John on the Web at: http://kd2bd.ham.org/ . . . . Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: balun rating exceeded
A few years back I bought a Buxcom G5RV and running 600 watts into it, the balun that it came with was toast. I replaced it with 10 turns of coax wrapped around a Folger's coffee can. Reading what G5RV had written about his antenna, he recommended that a balun not be used with his antenna. See last link at http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm Jozef WB2MIC Brett gazdzinski wrote: What is the benefit of a balun? I cant run them, as I run legal limit AM which will toast any balun I ever heard of. At 100 watts, or QRP, RF in the house cant be an issue, I don't have problems with the AM and the G5RV right over the house. I would think it would just add more loss. I used to have resonant 80 and 40 meter dipoles, but took them down and built a home made G5RV, #12 wire for the open wire line, and only about 20 feet of RG214 coax into the tuner or directly into the K2 with its built in atu. I will have very high swr on both the open wire line (does not matter as there is almost no loss), and the RG214, but there is only 20 feet of that, so I would guess the loss is slight. Now I could fit a balun if I just used the K2, but what would be the advantage? I hear you should never run a balun with any swr, the losses go way up. I think they now make tuners with the balun before the tuner (rig, balun, tuner, antenna) that works well Brett N2DTS The following happened to me a few years ago as a brand new ham in my pre-Elecraft days and I wonder if anyone can explain to me the details. I apparently had high swr and exceeded the rating on my balun. It suffered accordingly but didn't completely fail. The result was when I transmitted cw on 40m an internal fuse would blow in the stereo which was on in the next room room. It took two go rounds before I caught onto the cause and effect... A new & better balun cured the problem. At the time I had a Zepp (135') and 4:1 balun at the house entrance. I assume the ruined balun was emitting all sorts of RF that the stereo amplifier picked up, tried to amplify, and couldn't. But I don't understand exactly what would make it draw that much current. Can someone enlighten me? By the way, since then I put up a dipole, halfwave for 160m, about 200' behind the house. That's what I should have begun with. Thanks! Mike ab3ap ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE:MARS
Indeed they did. My Navy MARS callsign used to be N0HNG. Jozef WB2MIc Bob Nielsen wrote: The MARS callsigns have changed a bit over the years. At one time they used prefixes which are now allocated to amateur radio. Bob, N7XY ex- AF6SWE - Air Force Mars (~1954), N0KHM - Navy Mars (~1968) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas
It would seem to me that new rigs today might benefit from a built infra red or wireless CW key connection. Elecraft could then also sell as an accessory a wireless paddles, perhaps even a wireless touch paddle. Of course the same could be for microphones for those that are not CW only. Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had been thinking about having a filter parameter memory card, where you could store the bandwidth/bfo figures from a number of different alignments and instantly recall and load them. Say you had five banks, you could have four bandwidths at each of five different sidetone/offsets. But I don't know enough about this to know why even this limited option (let alone continuously tracking filters) wouldn't be practical. 73, Drew AF2Z On Tue, 08 May 2007 22:21:04 +1200, "Nigel & Beryl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I would like to see the ability to toggle or step through say three side tone settings and have the CW filters automatically track the changes. On a occasions, especially when the filter is set narrow and the signal is weak, the filter ringing and the background noise level can mask a particular sidetone frequency. Being able to change the CW sidetone can again un-mask the signal. 73, Nigel ZL2DF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] The XYL/OM Issue
I have a solution to the YW/OM issue: OM: WB2MIC Josef YW: KA1PMS JeanneE (yes, her real call see http://www.qrz.com/ka1pms 1H: KA1ZWK Guinnevere 2H: N1UKP Dylan Club: W1PAZ Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Darwin, Keith wrote: Ah, Cathy, this is priceless! My wife and I are both familiar with that "starry-eyed" look. She sees it in me with Elecraft gear and straight keys (and air rifles) and I see it in her whenever a Carnival cruise ad comes on TV. We're both pretty good at saying "no"!!! Try this. Next time you're giving your hubby a warm hug, squeeze him tight and say "I love you". He'll melt and say "I love you too". Then, before the moment fades add "can I get a K3?". - Keith - -Original Message- From: Cathy James I was enthusiastically poring through the K3 information last night when my husband came into the room. I showed him the rig and was clearly looking a little starry-eyed. He looked at me and said, "What do you need another radio for? Your current ones work fine!" ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T Shirt Slogan
Dear Elecraft folks: I know some Elecraft owners are looking to sell their K1 and K2 rigs to raise fund for a K3. I have a friend, Tony K1RW, who is looking for either a K1 or K2. His email and email address follow in an email with his request. If you have a rig K1 or K2 or sale drop him a note at <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 73. Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Original Message Subject:Re: How's... Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 18:42:18 -0500 From: Anthony Suruda <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jozef Hand-Boniakowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If by chance you see any offers to sell another K-1 (or better, a K-2), I'd probably want one to leave in Colorado... I greatly appreciate your forwarding the K-1 ad to me, I never would have believed how good the receiver is. 73, Tony ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T Shirt Slogan
Here's my contribution: "K3 by Elecraft: It's not your father's radio." Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Jesse Justiss wrote: K3 The affordable expensive radio. K3 Thousands less for better performance. K3 The Winners choice. K3 The standard bearer. K3 Uber Alles K3 And K2 Still better than the rest. K3 Setting the goals for others to follow. K3 Now leading the way in performance and fun. K3 First Ham radio then the world. K3 More radio less eyewash. (Yaesu) K3 Phase noise? What phase noise? K3 I wish the DX had one so he could hear me. K3 K2 K1 KX1, When you want to be a real ham. K3 With the whole world making it better, not a boardroom. Pictures: K3 on top of K2 strewn with the competition. Dealers throwing rocks labeled YaeComWood falling short of Elecraft radios. The Yakuza looking at Wayne and Eric's picture. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Announcing the Elecraft K3 Transceiver: 10/100W, 160-6m, Assembled or Kit
Dear OMs/YLs: I thought you might be interested in my spatial CW reception project. See: http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm It's the second link down. Jozef WB2MIC Jim Wiley wrote: Wayne or Lyle - whichever one of you is awake after the flood of emails you have been working through - Will the new K3 be able to TX on the Alaska emergency frequency of 5167.5 kHz? This is close to the 60 meter band, but not a "ham band" frequency. This channel is authorized to hams in or near Alaska for use during emergencies, and contacts between hams and non-hams (for example, the police or a commercial HF user) are authorized when the situation calls for it. The authorization is for SSB (USB) only, 150 watts max output. Also, this was touched on, but I would like a bit of clarification - One of my favorite ways to operate CW during a contest or DX pileup is to use both the main receiver and the sub-receiver in my Yaesu Mark 5 set to the same frequency but with different filter bandwidths, for example 400 Hz on the main and 500 Hz on the sub, which gives a quasi-stereo effect to the sound. When using a stereo headset, the different bandwidths make the signals seem to have a spatial differentiation that really helps sort out the pile. The only fly in the ointment is that on the Mark 5, you have to hold down a front-panel button to get the VFOs to track, which creates sort of a pain where I sit. Having the ability to have the 2 VFOs track automatically would be a big help. Otherwise, congratulations. My K2 works just FB, but the panel is a bit small. Maybe I can think about replacing one or even both of my Mark 5s. Anyone out there want to buy a fully loaded Mark 5? regards - - Jim, KL7CC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Announcing the Elecraft K3 Transceiver: 10/100W, 160-6m, Assembled or Kit
Looking at the K3 backside, an DB9 serial connector. Was thought given to USB and/or Ethernet? Jozef WB2MIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 #1740 - The first 100 QSOs
A bit more on the "what can the K1 do" front. I completed my K1 #02326 on Feb 26, 2007. It went together flawlessly. I have worked 3 QSOs this morning from the mobile on 40 meters with a Workman hamstick. Since Feb 26, I have worked 414 QSOs in 48 DXCC entities and 29 states. All the QSOs have been either on solar power (4 Siemens 55 watt panels and 2KW-hr storage) with a 1/4 wave 40 mtr ground plane and 3 element yagi, or from the car. Main rig is IC756 PRO III which I love, but the K1 gives a level of satisfaction that the PRO III cannot provide. 73, Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Clark Macaulay wrote: What a wonderful post, Jim. Your sense of humor as well as your wisdom as a dxer is so refreshing. I'm a new dxer and look forward to your book. I really want dxcc qrp!! 100 qso's in a month qrp? Wow...guess I need to spend more time with the K1 than with the FT-1000Mk V! Will look for you on 14.060 73 de Clark ke4rq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?
With all the talk about Elecraft amps, I have a question. I have a K1 which I am very happy with. I plan to take the rig fixed mobile as I find myself often in situations where I often find myself waiting for long periods in my car. I have a 40 and 20 meter mobile antenna coming and plan to try my luck at a homebrew portable all band antenna. But, I would like to be able to run more than 5 watts with the K1. So then, do the Elecraft amps lend themselves to such a possibility, or, am I better of either homebrewing a 30 - 50 or so watt amp, or kit like the HF Project amp kit. I must not be the only K1 user looking for higher output power options. Thanks. Jozef WB2MIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] solar power
I run my Elecraft K1 at home off of four Siemens 55 watt panels. I use a 30 amp charge controller which feed six golf cart batteries that are 6 volts each at 200 amp-hr. I have them wired in three pairs go give 12 vdc at 600 amp-hr. The panels and the batteries are now 12 years old and still running fine. The batteries also run a 500 watt DC to 120 VAC inverter. I have some photos of the solar setup and house at http://www.metaphoria.us//Tiff3/index.html My ham radio webpage is here: http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm In my opinion, one of the best sources for things solar is the Mr. Solar website at: http://www.mrsolar.com/ Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm trying to set up a remote radio location with solar power. Does anyone have current info on the best solar panels and charger? Frank W7is ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery Voltage Readout Question - Blinking
Yes. My shack does have a low light environment. I was through direct email by two list users that this very slight flicker is normal as there is data that is shared on the line. It's not a problem. I was curious. Jozef WB2MIC Current Subscriptions wrote: Hi Jozef WB2MIC, I have checked my K1 (#2294 Christmas 2006) and notice the same effect. There is a very faint glimmer on the ATTN LED when 'Batt monitor' is selected. It would probably have gone unnoticed. I presume you work in low light conditions. I wonder if other K1 owners notice the same. Cheers - Steve M0ECS. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 Battery Voltage Readout Question
I completed my K1 on 2/26/07 and have worked 44 countries, 27 states and 285 QSOs. I love the radio and it has performed well. I have a question about the battery voltage readout and was wondering if this is typical or not. When I put the display function into battery voltage the LCD reads battery voltage like it is supposed to (i.e. 12.6) and the display blinks every second or so. What I also notice is the the attenuator (ATTN) LED blinks fast ever so slightly at about 10 time per second. This blinking is extremely dim even in darkened conditions but noticeable. Is this normal. It only happens in the battery voltage mode. Jozef WB2MIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] HF amp kits
I have been a ham for 43 plus years (12/23/63) and up to now have not heard of any such limitation. Jozef WB2MIC David Wilburn wrote: Just working from memory here, but wasn't there also a limit that the amateur could only build one such amp a year? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Jim Wiley wrote: The 15 db rule applies only to manufactured for sale amplifiers. It does not apply to amplifiers that an individual ham builds for him or herself, particularly when a a kit is not involved.. Section 97.317 of the rules, which is where the 15 db rule appears, applies to the certification of external RF power amplifiers that a manufacturer offers for sale. Home-made amplifiers do not require certification. They must still meet some standards, such as those involving purity of emissions (harmonics, for example) and of course must not be operated above 1500 watts PEP, but that's pretty much it. I am unsure of how the rule applies to kits, but I think they would be considered a "manufactured product" if all the parts needed to complete the amplifier are contained, in the kit. If, however, a "kit" contained only some of the parts, and could not in itself be assembled into a working amplifier without adding extra parts, then the certification rule probably would not apply. It would be perfectly legal for a ham to build a home-brew grid-driven amplifier that could take the 10 watt signal from his K2 and boost it to 1500 watts output. Such an amplifier would have (roughly) 22 db of gain. A pair of 4CX800 tubes could accomplish this, I think. Remember also that the old Johnson Thunderbolt could be operated in grid-driven mode, and it had (still has, if you can find one) similar performance, using a pair of 4-400 tubes. - Jim, KL7CC Chris Kantarjiev wrote: The Linear Amp kits seem to need a fair amount of drive. I've been idly thinking about a linear that would allow me to drive it with my barefoot K2 and get 600-800 watts out for CW. The limit is 15 dB and is still in the requirements despite the recent loosening of Part 97. That should give something over 400 watts when driven by a K2. I don't recall whether the "easily- modifiable" rule is still there, so it may be possible to have an amp with an attenuator on the front-end (I heard that one of the Tokyo High Power amps does this, but haven't verified that). 73, Bob N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!
I will take issue that using a bug or keyer is "cheating". I can copy CW at 30 wpm but there is no way that I can send that fast using a straight key, nor can any other ham that I know. There are multiple CW sending skills that include straight key, bug, single and dual lever paddles, and touch keys. Each has its place and I like to be good at all of them through practice. As for high speed CW, it's not a matter of "razzle and dazzle" bur rather (for me) being the best one can be. A good CW QSO at 15 wpm is a pleasure, indeed. But, I prefer a much faster CW QSO. I cannot help but admire Theodore Roosevelt McElroy and his ability to copy CW at 77 WPM. See: http://www.telegraph-office.com/pages/mcelroy.html This was an amazing accomplishment as were his famous McElroy speed keys (bugs). I would hardly call McElroy's using his keys as "cheating". Jozef Hand-Boniakowski WB2MIC Wells VT Brett gazdzinski wrote: I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's in the past, like 20 years ago. Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H... I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters but drool them all together. I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you? My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think. (remember THEM?) I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20 years, and don't think it was ever very quality... Brett N2DTS -Original Message- From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM To: Brett gazdzinski Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! Hi Brett: Can anyone recommend a good basic key? I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE? If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears of the op on the other end. If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the length of time you'll use it. Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what it'll be worth to you. Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/ )offers a fairly wide range of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices. Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY. Regarding your R/S brass straight key: 1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged' down to the point that they make good electrical contact but NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly! 2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!! NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd swipe! A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any exists). 3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings). 4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer some resistance 5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a business card is a good starting point for setting beginning contact spacing. 6) PRACTICE A LOT 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman
Re: [Elecraft] Cabinet resonance
The K1 with the speaker does the same thing albeit at a higher frequency. A couple of extra screws dead center on the top cover on either side might cure that? What do people think? I use headphones most of the time, but the lid resonance is not the best thing when showing the rig off. Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Ken Kopp wrote: The combination of the cabinet and speaker of my K2 (#5665) has a VERY pronounced resonance at about 450 Hz. How fortunate, as this is the frequency at which I like to copy CW. (:-) The resonance is so pronounced that it would present a problem if I wanted to use a higher frequency, say 600 Hz. It initially caused me a bit of consternation as I was setting up the filters ... until I realized what was going on. Even with the filter set up for 600 Hz I would still find myself tuned and listening lower than the "Spot" tone ... sort of a human AFC circuit. (:-) Has anyone else noted this? I wonder if all the speakers supplied with K2's are of the same design from the same supplier? Mine -does- have all options installed except the battery and I assume the resonant frequency of the box would be different ... or non-existant ... with different "fillers" inside the case. I have two of the "old" Skytech variable-resonance speakers stored away that are fine examples of the application of housing / speaker resonance as a CW aid. They use a sliding tube to "tune" the assembly. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Vertical Antennas
Last summer, using spare tubing and tubing from an old 14AVQ I put up a 33-foot 1/4 wave 40 meter vertical. I laid down 32 radials of various sized with 16 of them being 32 feet long. There is an RF choke at both the tuner and the base of the vertical. Using this vertical I have worked 150 countries on 40 meters (my total is 216 since I started over on 01/01/05). I use a Palstar AT1500CV tuned in the shack and run RG8X buried to the vertical. I run an IC756 PRO III and a Yaesu FL2100B when needed. I also run my newly build (3/6/07) K1. I have worked 40 countries and 26 states, 200 QSOs using that vertical. It works great on 40, 30 and 17. Best on 40 and I can always work anything I can hear including BY, YB, 4X4, 3Y0, R1, etc. For the money $0.00, who can complain. See: http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm And yes, I need to add a webpage on the new K1 and the four 55-watt solar panels from which it draws power. :) Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Stuart Rohre wrote: Both the half wave and 5/8 wave antennas are complete resonant structures without the need for radials. See L. B. Cebik's web site, www.cebik.com for his discussion modeling half wave verticals, and little was gained by modeling radials under them. The reflections you are concerned about are in the range beyond the Fresnel Zone, some 5 or more wavelengths out from the vertical. Short 1/4 wave verticals need radials to complete the circuit and return RF current to the feedpoint. You can feed with a link, and possibly not need the cable choke. But, the cable choke is good insurance in any case. The whole issue is one of balance and if the feeder leads off vertically under the vertical, there is minimal pickup of RF by its outer conductor. Of course, if it is at right angles to the vertical directly at the feed point, there is more chance of current reaching the outer conductor inducing unbalance. An efficient ground for a 1/2 wave vertical is any whose impedance is say 1/10 of the feedpoint impedance of the vertical conductor, which is typically around 3000 ohms, depending on how close it is to RF earth at the base of antenna. So, a ground of 300 ohms would work in this case, while it would way inefficient for a quarter wave vertical, which needs a return conductors impedance of less than 3.6 ohms or so. (36 ohms base impedance on theoretical quarter wave vertical, base fed.) You want the ground to be a much more attractive path for RF than the other impedances in the system. 73, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 compared to others rigs
I used an Icom IC701 from 1978 thru 2006. A decent radio for its time. I replaced it with an IC 756 PRO III (Dec 2006) and the new radio blew the IC701 out of the water. In my opinion the PRO III is a superb radio. When looking for a new radio I was told to stay away from the Jupiter. I'm glad I did, but for the price I suspect it is OK. I heard good things about the IC746, but I wanted more than just a replacement radio for my IC701. I am not disappointed. In every way, I love he PRO III. It is, however, more expensive than the IC746, about twice the price. Ouch. But, I would do it again. Good luck. I just completed the Elecraft K1 and like it very much also. Jozef WB2MIC Phil Zminda wrote: Now that I've been using my K2 serial # 5719 for a while, I am a bit disappointed in my Ten-Tec Jupiter, particularly when there are strong CW signals on adjacent frequencies. I was always a Ten-Tec fan and loved my Corsair II, but wanted to try a newer design radio. Now, I'm thinking of selling or trading the Jupiter, but I wonder what's out there in the $1200 to $1500 range (new or used) that might be a step up from the Jupiter in receiver performance. Without opening up a can of worms, I'd like to hear some feedback on the IC 746 Pro, Ten-Tec Omni VI, TS-2000 or any others I may have over-looked. What else are you guys using? Thanks for this great resource. It's been a great help in getting to know my K2. Phil N3ZP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Questions - Recent Build
I completed my K1 about a month ago and have worked 124 QSOs in 25 countries and 18 states. DX on 40 has been as easy as DX on 20. I run it on four 55-watt Siemens solar panels and six 200 amp-hr 6 volt deep cycle batteries (now 12 years old). The RIT on my K1 does nothing when it is off. It does not alter frequency nor does it change the freq display. I stayed away from the internal battery option as I am not interested in opening and closing the box when I want to change batteries. I'm planing on a gel cell, flexible solar panel and charge controller for use in the field this summer. No comments on the bail. I have the noise blanker, but am in the country in the rural hills of Vermont so have not had the chance nor need of using it, yet. Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello group, Its been a Elecraft month, first the KX1 and now I just finished up the K1. After three evenings of effort I was able to complete K1 serial #02341 last night and go through the testing procedure. All went quite well, but I have a few questions, perhaps some of your other K1ers can help? 1) The front panel "offset" pot alters the RX frequency even when RIT is off. With the RIT off, turning the pot causes the displayed freq. changes, and does the same thing with the RIT is engaged as well. Is this normal, or do I have a problem here? 2) What are your thoughts on the battery option offered by Elecraft? 3) Is there a small bail or support that anyone has used to raise the front of the RX up a bit? Mine is now sitting on a roll of solder, but some type of flip down bail would be ideal 4) Noise blanker, how well does it work? I built mine last night and installed it, not quite as a severe as I expected. I understand an LED can be used in place of one of the caps, can someone speak to the difference this makes? Thanks for your help! 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tororids
Perhaps, I will run afoul with the list crowd, but from the get go on my first Elecraft kit, a K1, S/N 02326 (finished 5 days ago), I could not get fond of burning the enamel off. I tried the fine sand paper route wrapping a 3 inch long X .5 in wide strip around a plastic drinking straw and securing with tape at just the ends of the wrap. That worked but was far too slow. So, I went back to the way I had done it as a kid and used a small sharp pen knife at 30 degree angle away from the toroid while rotating the wire. I found I had the best control using the pen knife, being able to start the stripping precisely where I wanted. I wore magnifying safety glasses and made no nicks that I could see. The K1 fired up perfectly the first time and has been running ever since (about a week). 22 countries and 17 states worked so far on solar power. Love this little radio. Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Rich McCabe (IWH) wrote: No it won't but not sure that is going to help you. What method are you using to tin the leads? I as well as most others have had great success just burning the enamel off with solder and an iron. I keep a 40 watt iron hot and just keep feeding fresh solder to it with the winding lead on the iron. The enamel always melts and the impurities flow away. You need to get that coating removed 100%. Tell us a little more about your technique. Rich Kd0zv -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Al & Dianne Bruce Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:46 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Vertical Antennas
My observations. 2 years go, I put up a homebrew made of leftover tubing 33 ft vertical using an old Hustler 5BTV mount. A 3-1/2 inch galvanized pipe, hacksawed at one end into a 30 degree (angle) point was sledge driven into the ground as a mount stake. It is guyed with 3 ropes at the 18-ft level and secured with wood stakes. I feed it directly at the bottom with RG8X small coax. I have put down 32 radials. Since 6/2005, I have worked 212 countries and worked all states numerous times, including QRP. I run a IC756 Pro III. I also work plenty of DX using my Elecraft K1 which I just finished building. I used the vertical on 40 where it works the best and has a 1:1 SWR. I also use it on 30, 17 and 15 meters. I am amazed how well it works on 17 and 15 meters. I use a Palstar AT1500CV. I can work anything I hear and I hear plenty. I don't get too excited about SWR. If the transmitter sees a 1:1 on TX side of the tuner using the Palstar, I will see what the antenna can do. Other antennas are 133ft inverted-L. G5RV. And A3 at 40 feet. My K1's antenna tuner matches to the vertical just fine. When the weather warms up, I'm going to hit the mountain tops of Vermont (my home) with a disposable party helium canister and float a 66ft vertical on 40 meters. Being 1/2 wavelength it should not need any radials. BTW, the vertical ad RG8X takes 600 watts using a Yaesu FL2100B just fine, for those times when I want to run an indefinite string of DX QSOs back-to-back. I am CW only. Jozef WB2MIC Wells VT Trevor Day wrote: Hi Mike, I just want to respond to one aspect of your post which, co-incidentally, I have been discussing elsewhere this week. Thats the business of using an ATU. Essentially the document you read is correct; any adjustments to obtain a good match to the transmitter in an aerial of this type (trapped vertical, yagi, dipole etc.) should be done by adjusting the aerial itself. Placing an ATU at the tx end of the feeder (or built in as in the K2) is fine for small adjustments at, for example, band edges to prevent the SWR protection circuit from reducing the power out whilst still protecting the PA. Attempting to compensate for large mismatches with an ATU at the tx end of the feeder may result in an apparently good match, but will in most cases cause the feeder to radiate. Exceptions to this are when the feeder is of the balanced variety, eg. open wire, where the feeder carries a 'balanced' standing wave as a matter of course. In your case, adjust the vertical for best match on each band, starting with the highest frequency band, and without using the ATU in the K2. Once you are happy you have the best match you can on each band, then the K2's ATU can be used to perfect the match before operating. HTH Trev G3ZYY In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Mike Walkington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes Hi All, I've moved to a new house and I'm trying to get a Hustler 5BTV working really well with my K2 in my new location. I plan to install the antenna in a ground plane configuration on a 2 storey home and feed it with coax. I was planning to use a few quarter wave radial for each of the bands of interest. I've had problems with TVI using this antenna before, so this time I will use some sort of a choke to block currents on the outer surface of the coax braid. Any suggestions on what I should use? How should I protect myself from lightning? I initially thought about running a lead from the base of the antenna to ground, but the length of this would probably turn the antenna into a vertical dipole. I was reading some doco for this antenna and read the following: Never use an antenna tuner to tune the antenna.Use of a tuner only fools the transmitter and does not correct a problem at the antenna. This doesn't seem right can I use my K2's tuners? Finally, I've been reading Moxon's HF Antennas for All Locations, and he doesn't seem to recommend quarter wave radials for ground planes. I'm not sure I comprehend why. Is anyone familiar with his concerns? Mike VK1KCK, K2 #2599 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 KIT COMMENTS
Thank you all for the help so far. I just completed the (K1) receiver and the receiver alignment. Everything is perfect. I was just a couple of KHz off before calibration on each band. Signals are jumping out of the receiver on 40 and 30 meters. The 20 meter band is in fair to poor shape, but the K1 is receiving fine. 15 is dead. The concern about the thin CLEAR plastic covering in the backlight kit was unfounded. I removed the clear covering as per the confusing instructions and was told that this covering was part of the light diffusion system and the backlighting would be "unbalanced". The backlighting is perfect. The receiver draws 65.5 ma.with the backlighting. On to the transmitter. The K1 is a pleasure and fun to build 73, Jozef WB2MUC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Resistance Issue
Hello Don and others: Thank you kindly. This lists collective wisdom appreciated. I will cease and desist using the analog meter until my DMM arrives. May I suggest that Elecraft consider upgrading their recommendation about not using an analog meter to a warning which includes the possibility of component damage from using an analog meter. I was aware of the possibility of inaccurate readings, but not of possible damage to components. I stand educated. 73, Jozef WB2MIC Don Wilhelm wrote: Jozef, Yes your analog meter CAN be thowing your readings off by that much. Do not use an analog meter to do resistance checks on solid state equipment. Many make resistance measurements by applying a voltage to the circuit under test, and that voltage is high enough to turn on solid state junctions and may actually destroy solid state devices. Measuring voltages and currents with an analog meter may often be OK, but definitely NOT resistance measurements. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello to the list. This is my first posting on my K1 kit building issues via the Elecraft reflector. Thanks to all in advance. I am awaiting the delivery of a digital multimeter for making resistance/voltage checks, but started construction nonetheless. I have a cheap analog meter, however, and thought that when I get to the resistance check parts I would use it, but not proceed until the DMM gets here. I completed the 4 band filter bard and the front panel (minus the 10 turn potentiometer) up to the point where the resistance checks are to be made (page 22), and, here is where my analog meter says that I am way off. The backlight kit was installed, by the way, as per its (somewhat confusing instructions) which then returned me to the page where the resistance checks are made. I get the following big discrepancies: Test pts (+) ResistanceMeasured DS1 (LCD pins 1-24) >100K around 2K each to ground J1 pin 6 >100K 10K J1 pin 7 >100K 5.8 to 7K (moves up)) J1 pin 8 >100K 5.8 to 7K (moves up) J1 pin 10 90-200K 2.3K J1 pin 12 >100K 5.1 to 7K (moves up) J1 pin 15 <50K28K (yippie!) J1 pin 16 15-18K9K J1 pin 19 >100K 5.8 to 7K (moves up) Something is definitely awry here. I don't see any bridges, cold joints, nor missed components/joints, incorrectly placed parts. However, with the LCD installed along with the backlit display, there is no way to recheck the pins of the 40 pin MCU from the top of the board, only to look under the socket from the sides. I have rechecked all the component placement and the solder connections 3 times. I cannot find any errors or solder issues. So then, can the analog meter be throwing me that far off? I doubt it. Your expertise is requested in offering advice. 73, Jozef WB2MIC -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/694 - Release Date: 2/20/2007 1:44 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Resistance Issue
Hello to the list. This is my first posting on my K1 kit building issues via the Elecraft reflector. Thanks to all in advance. I am awaiting the delivery of a digital multimeter for making resistance/voltage checks, but started construction nonetheless. I have a cheap analog meter, however, and thought that when I get to the resistance check parts I would use it, but not proceed until the DMM gets here. I completed the 4 band filter bard and the front panel (minus the 10 turn potentiometer) up to the point where the resistance checks are to be made (page 22), and, here is where my analog meter says that I am way off. The backlight kit was installed, by the way, as per its (somewhat confusing instructions) which then returned me to the page where the resistance checks are made. I get the following big discrepancies: Test pts (+) ResistanceMeasured DS1 (LCD pins 1-24) >100K around 2K each to ground J1 pin 6 >100K 10K J1 pin 7 >100K 5.8 to 7K (moves up)) J1 pin 8 >100K 5.8 to 7K (moves up) J1 pin 10 90-200K 2.3K J1 pin 12 >100K 5.1 to 7K (moves up) J1 pin 15 <50K28K (yippie!) J1 pin 16 15-18K9K J1 pin 19 >100K 5.8 to 7K (moves up) Something is definitely awry here. I don't see any bridges, cold joints, nor missed components/joints, incorrectly placed parts. However, with the LCD installed along with the backlit display, there is no way to recheck the pins of the 40 pin MCU from the top of the board, only to look under the socket from the sides. I have rechecked all the component placement and the solder connections 3 times. I cannot find any errors or solder issues. So then, can the analog meter be throwing me that far off? I doubt it. Your expertise is requested in offering advice. 73, Jozef WB2MIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com