Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"

2007-09-07 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I just have to chime in.  How about an infra red key interface so our 
wonderful bugs, simplex and iambic paddles can have tiny attached infra 
red LEDs to make them "wireless"?  Help eliminate the wire clutter on 
the desk.


Jozef WB2MIC

Donald Rasmussen wrote:

So we've got the K3 copying code, and another sending
the code from memories in perfectly spaced "swing". !

Next request - a WiFi interface at the K3 so it can
email each of the operators with the contents of the
QSO. 


Ah what the heck, I'll just send an email... ;-)


[Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode"
Thom LaCosta lacosta at bc 
Fri Sep 7 17:17:49 EDT 2007 


Previous message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" - ACS

Next message: [Elecraft] Re: K3 keyer "mode" 


On Fri, 7 Sep 2007, Chris wrote:

  

and Automatic Character Spacing, please.



I'd like auto dot and manual dashunless of course
we could have a swing 
option.


73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO


  

Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search

http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

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Re: [Elecraft] Contest QTH

2007-08-31 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Lucky man.  Me too!  We live on 16 acres in the hills of rural Vermont 
(past 22 years).  There is an antenna farm including tower and 
tribander.  Wife, JeanneE, helped me put in 40 radials for the 40 meter 
1/4 wave vertical.  The longest is 250 feet!  Some at 128 feet, etc.  
She even suggested that the new electric dog fence which is a 975 loop 
one inch under the grass and under the inverted-L be flipped with a 
switch from loop antenna to shorted )disconnected from the fence TX) and 
grounded counterpoise.  Ah, and then there is the great callsign she 
has.  JeanneE is KA1PMS.  And the kids are Guinnevere KA1ZWK, and Dylan 
N1UKP.  The club call is W1PAZ.  With the new (Feb 2007) very easy no-CW 
ham U.S. exams  the two dogs are considering getting their ham tickets.


Jozef WB2MIC


J F wrote:

Hi David,

I married into the contest QTH ;o) It puts a little
strain on the finances, but what ham would turn down a
couple acres in the country for antennas??

I'm so bloody fortunate, she even helps with the
antennas and radials!

Cheers,

Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Mt. Saint Helens

2007-08-17 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Happy to listen for you.  Would that be 20 meters and what 
frequency(ies) would you be hanging around?


Jozef WB2MIC

Karl Anderson wrote:

Hi Folks,

I'll be operating my K2 tomorrow morning at the Johnson Ridge Observatory on 
Mt. Saint Helens in Washington State. My location will be about 3 miles from 
where Gerry Martin, W6TQF perished after he provided the first radio 
transmission that the mountain was erupting. Time of operation will be approx. 
1600Z-1900Z or 9am-12pm local time. If you have a moment, please listen for me.

73, 
Karl NM7N-

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Re: [Elecraft] OT. RF (invisible) dog fence.

2007-08-16 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Yes indeed.  This is a concern.  That said, the plan was not leave the 
dogs in the fenced area unattended.  Just to give them enough room for a 
good run three times per day without taking off on us.  Thanks for the 
replies both on and off the list.


Jozef WB2MIC


Thom LaCosta wrote:

On Thu, 16 Aug 2007, Jim Brown wrote:


On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:14:06 -0400, Jozef Hand-Boniakowski wrote:


and RFI from the dog fence


I would think the other concern/monitor might be the dogas I 
understand the fences, the dog receives a shock from the collar when 
it gets too close/goes over the boundry line created by the fence.


If your transmitted signal sets off the collar, the dog will be unhappy.

Not sure what would make the dog the unhappiest, SSB or CW.

73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO
Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
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[Elecraft] OT. RF (invisible) dog fence.

2007-08-16 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
If anyone has had any experience with invisible RF dog fences please 
drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED]  I am concerned about RF 
getting into the dog fence and RFI from the dog fence.  TNX.


73,
Jozef WB2MIC
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Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline

2007-08-14 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I have been using TruValue twin lead at $14/100 feet for the past 4 
years on both my G5RV and my 40 meter loop.  Works just fine.  Best 
bargain around.  Since I only need 40 feet on either antenna, if it goes 
bad, I just use the other half  of what is left with some to spare.


Jozef WB2MIC

PS.  The antenna wire is leftover electric fence wire now over 22 years 
old.   Cost per antenna per year is quite low.  :)


Robert Tellefsen wrote:

Thom
There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead.
Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy
conductors.  Some are good quality.  There is/was
at least one version that was suitable for transmitting
(power level not stated that I can recall).  If you
have some of the good quality stuff, you can probably
do 100w just fine.  I'd watch out for the skimpy stuff,
though.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: "Thom LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline


  

It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead...

Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out?


I
  

can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get


something up
  

in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway.

I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at


100
  

watts.

Thanks

73 k3hrn
Thom,EIEIO
Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Keying contacts

2007-07-28 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
A single sheet of white paper cut into strips placed between the 
contacts with some pressure on the paddle while you pull through will 
clean the contacts without damage.  Run a strip a few times through an 
you will see the results.  I use just under the amount of pressure that 
rips the paper.


Jozef WB2MIC

John H Gibson wrote:
On the topic of keys, paddles, and bugs, I wonder if members of the list would tell 
me how they keep key contacts clean and reliable. Do you regularly burnish key 
contacts? Do you use a chemical cleaner (e.g. de-oxit)? Do you maintain a 
minimum keying current? Or do you simply never have a problem?


Please share your wisdom and experience.

73,
John, no8v
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Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic: Manhattan Style Construction

2007-07-26 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Here's what I do  I use double sided PC board material.  I design the 
Manhattan style PC board I want on paper with the islands or buildings 
(squares and rectangles for pads) clearly defined making sure that the 
spacing between the components I am going to solder is correct.  I then 
use good quality tin snips or hacksaw and cut out the islands or 
buildings from more double sided PC board material.  I transfer the 
pattern from paper to a PC board so I know where the pads will go.  I 
then use Krazy Glue to glue the pads down with one or two very small 
drops.  I then solder the parts from pad to pad or pads to the ground plane.


Jozef WB2MIC


Ken Kopp wrote:

Check sheet-metal drills at a machine tool supply house..
Their points specifically produce the circles you want.  The tip and 
the OUTER edge of the cutting face contact the metal at the same time.


I can send you a photo of one if you need.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] 21st century connectivity

2007-07-26 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Satellite broadband is available most everywhere in the USA.  Our 
daughter lives in Glover VT which is about as rural and out of the way 
as you can get.  She is content with the broadband that she has.  See: 
http://www.4wildblue.com


Jozef WB2MIC

Kevin Rock wrote:

Currently I have a 21.6 Kbps connection to the Internet.  Sometimes it gets as 
fast as 26.4 Kbps!  The nearest broadband connection is 20 miles away.  I have 
no hope they will ever bring cable, fiber, or WiMAX to anywhere close enough to 
effect my connection speed.  A one megabyte attachment chokes my email system 
for about fifteen minutes.  Larger files?  Hopefully I can maintain a 
connection overnight or it is no use even trying.  Luckily I do drive into 
Portland, Oregon where they do have faster connections so I take a hard drive 
along and all the URLs I've collected over the week so I can grab the files.  
No, broadband connections are not available in all locations.  The U.S. has a 
long way to go to catch up with Japan, Korea, or Denmark.
   Kevin.  KD5ONS

-Original Message-
  

From: Lyle Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Jul 25, 2007 7:42 PM
To: Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: 21st century assembly "manual"


The reality is that many of us are confined to dial-up and always will 
be.  (;-(
  
Say it isn't true!  Can't you get BPL, the answer to everything, in your 
area?


Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] that Drake or Collins cost

2007-07-24 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

My parents bought me a Swan 400 when I passed my general at age 14 in
January 1964.  I went from WN2MIC to WB2MIC and CW at 13 wpm was a piece
of cake.  That rig with no bells and whistles was $1,000 new.  Inflate
that over 44 years!  Rigs today are a bargain, and feature packed, by
comparison.  I must say, however, that I thoroughly enjoyed the 320
watts DC on CW and 400 PEP on SSB.  It was new teen ham's delight to
operate.  BTW, my novice station was a Hallicrafters HT40 (I still have
one) and a Lafayette HE30 receiver.  I now use the HT40 along with a
Collins R390A for kicks every once in a while.  And then I run the K1 or
IC-756 PRO III.  All great fun.

Jozef WB2MIC

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 7/24/07 11:35:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



  
basic Drake 2B receiver without the Q-multiplier was 
$279. Using the Bureau of Labor Statistics inflation calculator, that 
is the equivalent of $1875 in 2007






Lessee - that's about the price of a bare-bones K3 or a fully-loaded K2/100,
isn't it?

And the 2B wasn't considered a top-of-the-line receiver in its time!
One big cause of its popularity was that it was considered 
*inexpensive* for the performance and features you got for $279.

And it was, even though it wouldn't transceive and the basic 2B
did not include 160 meters, a calibrator, a noise blanker (it had a 
limiter), the Q multiplier, nor even a built-in speaker IIRC. 

A 2B was far beyond my means back in the day. 


73 de Jim, N2EY


**
 Get a sneak peek of the 
all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Hate the word "ham"

2007-06-24 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Sorry:

Nonsense.  The ability to talk via ham radio overseas, Norway. etc., is 
"indeed unique" when you can consider that no hardware corporate, nor 
any other, infrastructure is necessary to achieve the task.  Shut down 
the cell-phone infrastructure and/or the Internet and communications 
stops.  Ham radio communications cannot be shut down without broad 
spectrum high power jamming.  Ham radio communications would continue.  
And that, may I suggest, is what makes "ham radio" so special.  I don't 
need anything other than the "ether" between my rig and the other guy/gal. 


Jozef WB2MIC

Cathy James wrote:

W2AGN wrote:
"The term "Ham Radio" has been used at least for 75 years, possibly 
more. Most of us "old-timers" are proud to be Hams. But then, we took 
"real" exams and even, back in the olden days, had to pass a Morse 
Code test. (After walking barefoot in the snow 5 miles to the FCC 
examiner, of course).


"Perhaps the term "Ham Radio" has become outmoded, with the new trends 
in Amateur Radio, no more code test, memorized exams, etc. So maybe we 
should "repackage" ourselves.


"I know! Why don't we call it "Citizen's Band?"  (CB for short)."

John, I know you are using some irony here ("barefoot in the 
snow..."), and I don't offend easily, but I have to same that we "new" 
hams (first licensed 1991 in my case) get a little tired of the 
endless litany of "you young whippersnippers ain't as good as us" that 
is often heard from old-timers on the Net.  (Interesting, I don't 
think I've ever heard it in person or on the air.  I don't use 75 
meters, and it doesn't seem to be common on other bands.)


I mean, c'mon, I have an engineering degree (albeit not EE), an 
Extra, routinely ragchew at 16-18 wpm CW, my shack is full of kits 
I've built, I build complex antennas from scratch (two Moxons so far), 
and I'm studying RF theory as time permits in hope of eventually 
designing and building my own rigs.  Yet there is a group of hams that 
will never consider me their equal because I didn't take the same exam 
they did in front of an FCC examiner and never passed a CW test higher 
than 5 wpm.  Give it a rest!


NZ0R wrote:
"In terms of its reputation and usefulness, ham radio seems stuck in 
the 50's
to me. Technology-wise it's pretty up-to-date but for the most part 
it's a

quaint throwback to simpler times. The name "ham" may be odd and
embarrassing, but people do know what it means."

Craig, I fully agree that in many ways ham radio is stuck in the 
1950's.  I'm not quite sure why or what to do about it.  The world has 
changed, the culture has changed, and we have to change with it or we 
will disappear.  Certainly the ability to talk to someone in Norway or 
New Zealand is no longer unique with the rise of the Internet, and 
cellphones have replaced some of the uses of HT's and other VHF 
operations.  We need to focus on the things that can't be done in 
consumer-land, such as building and tinkering with hardware and 
software, experimenting at the edge of today's knowledge, and 
providing emergency services.


N5IB wrote:
"Our Louisiana call letter plates have the legend "Ham Operator."

Very interesting!  I've lived in many states and traveled through 
most, and the vast majority use "Amateur Radio" on their license plates.



Cathy
N5WVR


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[Elecraft] Re: Hate the word "ham"

2007-06-23 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Agreed.  Me too, by the way. My Elmer was W2FVB, Walter Muller.  In my 
33 year high school  teaching carrier, not one student ever made fun of 
the term ham.  I taught a ham radio class for science credit (for 
graduation) that met daily, but you had to have acquired a callsign to 
get the credit. No kid ever made fun of me being their Elmer, however, 
many remember their Elmer fondly like I remember mine  As a 14 year old 
know it all teenager, I had no problem telling my peers that I was a 
"ham".  No one ever made fun of me.  Quite the contrary.  We are what we 
think, and, what we think, we project. 


Jozef WB2MIC

[EMAIL PROTECTED],net wrote:
I certainly agree with Jozef.  There is something called tradition.  We are 
"hams," and should be proud of that title.  It took much effort in days 
past, unlike today.  When I recieved my Extra class license it meant 
something other than the fact of successfully memorizing some answers.  We 
now have Extra class "operators."  The FCC changed "ham radio" in order to 
get more numbers.  Never mind quality, let's have numbers.  Never mind the 
traditions.  By the way I do remember my Elmer from 1956. Mike K4ELV


  

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Hate the word "ham"

2007-06-23 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I always remember wanting to be a "Ham".   I have now been a ham for 43 
plus years having acquired WN2MIC in 1963.  It is a respectful term as 
well as one of endearment, in my opinion.  If the public at large is 
unfamiliar with or find the term "ham" as odd or unusual, then I suggest 
an opportunity has opened to educate them.


Jozef WB2MIC


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I'll offer a comment here...

I beleive that the phrase "ham radio operators" carries more recognition
with the public than "amateur radio operators." At least here along the
hurricane coast if you tell someone your hobby is amatuer radio you might
get a quizzical look, but if you say you're a ham operator they tend to
perk up and say somethig like "Oh, like the guys who helped out after
Katrina?" The news media usually refers to "reports via ham radio
operators" and similar words. Our Louisiana call letter plates have the
legend "Ham Operator."

To that end, the magnetic signs we are making to put on vehicles when we
are doing public service communications at events will read

-
(with BRARC Club and ARRL logos)

Baton Rouge Amateur Radio Club

HAM RADIO COMMUNICATIONS
-

73,
Jim, N5IB
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Re: [Elecraft] Regarding electric fence wire

2007-06-17 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Agreed.  However, at $0.00 for antennas that have worked 228 DXCC 
entities since January 1, 2005, I'd say such antennas are a good 
bargain, and, work well enough.


Jozef WB2MIC

Ken Kopp wrote:
RF travels on and/or near the surface of a conductor.  The plating on 
fence wire tarnishes / corrodes rapidly and therefore isn't the best 
choice for antenna wire.


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1: antenna wire

2007-06-17 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
FWIW.  And for those big loops!  TruValue (Granville NY) was selling #17 
electric fence wire for $22.99 for a 1/2 mile.  #14 for a 1/4 mile was 
$29.99.   I have a 40 meter loop I made with scraps of the #14 put 
together using wire nuts and homemade PVC insulators.  It has been up 
for years and the wire is over 20 years old.  I took it off the fence 
posts when we first moved in 1985.  I'm still using it, but almost gone 
now. 


Jozef WB2MIC

Paul - VE1DY wrote:

Hi Mike,

I'd use any old wire you can find at a good price.  Home Depot must
have something, and I wouldn't bother with the double binding post at
all.  I prefer alligator clips.  You can see what I use on my KX1 web
page: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike/csway.html

Good luck,

Paul


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Re: [Elecraft] Offensive

2007-06-13 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Didn't offend me.  I have a delete button that is easy enough to use.

Jozef

W2AGN wrote:
Well, I apparently have offended one of the folks on the list, who 
advises me I am a "sarcastic malcontent," due to my earlier post in 
reference to the rather odd topics that seem to have taken over the 
Elecraft List, such as:


1. English (idioms and vernacular)
2. The Best handi-talky
3. RST S meter readings
4. The Woodpecker
and of course the classic "Signing /QRP"

So sorry if my ignorance has caused me to fail to recognize the 
relationship of the above to Elecraft products. It was pointed out to 
that 'Signing /QRP" is on topic since Elecraft makes QRP radios, and 
the Subject is /QRP? therefore it is relevant. Therefore since many of 
us speak English into our Elecraft microphones, #1 above is also on 
topic. Handi talkies are usually QRP, so there';s #2. Of course the K2 
and K3 have S-meters, so that takes care of #3. #4 is a bit more 
difficult, but I am sure it is obvious to my critic.


So sorry, carry on, as they say. As you were.

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Re: [Elecraft] flagrantly OT: name of WWII comedian who "...could teach Morse code to a dog...."?

2007-06-13 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I believe the character he played was "Sergeant Bilko", if memory serves 
me -- with big dark rimmed glasses and a balding head.


Jozef WB2MIC

Stan Rife wrote:

Was that Phil Silver  Not sure if he was 40's era or not, but I used to 
watch him back in the 50's on TV when I was a kid.
   
  Stan Rife

  W5EWA
   
  


wayne burdick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  I heard this very funny piece on NPR a couple of years ago about a 
40's-era comedian who did skits about military life. In one skit he 
played a radio-class instructor disgusted with a new class of 
underachieving recruits who were there to learn the code. He chastised 
them for not studying while bragging that he could teach anyone the 
code, even "a dog," which cracked up the studio audience (or, I'm not 
sure which, prompted the laugh-track operator to open it up all the 
way).


Being not quite 50, I wasn't there. I bet a few of you were :) I 
couldn't find his name with a web search. Anyone have a clue?


tnx
Wayne
N6KR


---

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Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"

2007-06-12 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Yes.  And, this is the FISTS 10th anniversary this year.  To celebrate 
FISTS is offering the 20/20 award.  Your work 20 FISTS for 20 minutes 
each (at least) in each of the 12 months during 2007.  The first month 
you get the certificate and and sticker for that month (say January).  
Then for each successive month you do it again and get another stick 
(for that month).  Get all twelve (20 QSOs X 20 minutes per month X 12 
months) and you get plaque for the anniversary award.  To allow late 
comers to get the plaque, you get a free month sticker for any two 
consecutive months the feat is achieved.  These can be used for missed 
months.  The conversations have been wonderful.  See awards at 
http://www.fists.org


73, Jozef
FISTS 12313 CC 1875

Sandy wrote:
Can't agree with you more Ron!  I think I've had more polite QSO's 
with QRPers than other random contacts.  Another bunch that will spend 
some good QSO time with you other than the:  "Good meeting you", RST, 
QTH, "Op", 73 QSO, is the FISTS group.  Way too many fellows these 
days who plain don't want to "talk" and "ragchew" on CW.  I have run 
into a lot of "shooters", pilots, ship operators accidently while 
laying out fragments of my "bio" on CW QSO's.  I feel VERY 
uncomfortable getting a 589/599 report when running 5 watters, then 
finding out the guy on the other end, who is maybe 349 or 459 is 
running 100 watts!


72/72,

Sandy
Mostly W5TVW/QRP
- Original Message - From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"


Well, there's the huge difference between us Mike. I call "W3XYX 
W3XYZ W3XYZ

DE AC7AC AC7AC AC7AC/QRP" ;-)

Same for CQ. My thinking is that if hearing the /QRP is going to confuse
anyone, I want them to get the call right first.

As for a QRP signal being 'tiny', it all depends upon conditions. 
Digging
out weak signals can be fun. I do it out of habit. I find I'm digging 
"in
the mud" for a 100 watt or greater signal at least as often as a QRP 
signal.



I've given and received lots of 579 to 599 reports and enjoyed long, 
long
rag chews when we're both running 5 watts or less to suggest that QRP 
is not

a all a tiny signal when conditions are right.

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

Ron & all,

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

...I hope the intrepid operators who love to promote their operating
interests will never stop signing /QRP...


I share some of the feelings of both camps regarding signing or not 
signing
using /QRP.  As a result, I use a combination.  I generally call by 
txing:


cq cq cq de ab3ap/qrp ab3ap ab3ap

I put the "/QRP" in early so the responding op doesn't feel obligated to
resend it back to me, send it only once because it takes time, but 
send it

more than not at all so listeners know what that tiny signal is.

For what it's worth,
Mike  ab3ap
_

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Re: [Elecraft] Re:Signing /QRP

2007-06-12 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Simply put: when I call CQ and I have multiple stations respond, I give 
preference to the station that is the weakest or who signs /QRP which is 
not always one and the same.


Jozef WB2MIC

Dave Sergeant wrote:

On 12 Jun 2007 at 4:03, GM4SLV wrote:

  

As far as I can read in our regs there's nothing to prevent adding
/QRP to one's callsign. As long as your "basic" call is given
correctly then anything else is allowed in a QSO - tagging /QRP to the
end seems to me to be just part of the rest of the QSO. It's splitting
hairs to worry about the difference between "GM4SLV/QRP" and
"GM4SLVQRP" and (when I'm sending!!) "GM4SLV/QRP"



But I see the comment earlier that US FCC licences specifically have 
a clause allowing you to add your self assigned suffixes, which does 
indicate it is legal in the USA. I know of no other licence 
administration which has this and it is certainly not the case in the 
UK. The only suffixes our standard licence allows (and which is now 
optional) are /P, /A and /M - and if you have the appropriate licence 
/MM and /AM (but aeronautical mobile is to all intents and purposes 
never licenseable in the UK). Any other suffixes are by implication 
not allowed.


I now have 220 countries worked on QRP and have NEVER put a /QRP on 
my call. I only ever say G3YMC QRP (no /) towards the end of a QSO 
with another QRP station, and normally don't even mention that I am 
QRP until well into the QSO when I give details of the rig. It is 
absolutely never justified in contests/pileups and as far as I am 
concerned /QRP is never part of any callsign and never gets logged or 
acknowledged by me.


As for calling weak signals and hoping they will come back, I have 
just had three QSOs with FY/G3SXW and FY/G3TXF. In each case their 
signal was just above the noise and I would normally never even think 
it worth calling. But since I know Roger and Nigel I decided to have 
a go. In each case he came back after just one or two calls through 
the pileup (and the usual 599...). Never underrate your ability to 
work weak stations on QRP...


73 Dave G3YMC

http://www.davesergeant.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Where R made ? "Power Pole"

2007-06-10 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I must chime in a bit.  If workers were not pitted one against the 
other, and if they received the same renumeration for their wage-power 
everywhere, then they would not be exploited.  Some may rest content 
that their consumer products are produced in slave like conditions.  I 
do not.  The CEOs on the other hand, receive obscene wages for what they 
actually produce: very little or nothing.  It's not that "Laborers in 
the US and the UK do not necessarily do a job that is enough better to 
justify a higher wage than someone in India or China", rather, it's that 
one group can be easily exploited and the other cannot.  For the time 
being, anyway.  Next on the neo-liberal agenda: outsourcing CEOs to Rwanda!


Jozef WB2MIC


Brian Lloyd wrote:

On Jun 10, 2007, at 8:10 AM, Julian G4ILO wrote:


Unfortunately, by the time we're all out of work or employed in the
tourist industry looking after the Chinese on their holidays, it will
be too late to realise the folly of seeing no further than bigger
profits and lower prices.


We live in a global economic market and the formula is simple: make a 
better product for the same price or the same quality product for a 
lower price. People of the western world for the most part have an 
over-inflated estimate of the value of their labor. . Want more money 
and/or more business? Learn to do something that has more value in the 
market.


And, yes, it *is* about bigger profits and lower prices. But it is 
also about creating new things too.


There are exceptional people who do the groundbreaking work. They 
cannot be replaced by a generic college graduate with a master's 
degree or a PhD no matter how 'learned' the latter are. These are not 
the people working for big companies. The goal is to find the few 
people who are in this creative class and work with them to create new 
things. Once the designs are well established you can turn them over 
to a generic PhD EE.


BTW, the reason everyone here likes the Elecraft products is that 
Elecraft consists of a collection of that small group of people in 
that exceptional category, i.e. the people who really think and make 
new things.


73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: balun rating exceeded

2007-05-15 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Hello John:

Tnx much for the reply.  The G5RV is as straight as gravity will allow 
and the 450 ohm line is indeed perpendicular to the flattop.  I use a 
Palomar 1500CV with it and it works well.  That said, I prefer my 33 ft 
40 meter vertical with 37 radials and the 40 meter loop. 


Jozef WB2MIC

John Magliacane wrote:

--- Jozef Hand-Boniakowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  
A few years back I bought a Buxcom G5RV and running 600 watts into it, 
the balun that it came with was toast.  I replaced it with 10 turns of 
coax wrapped around a Folger's coffee can.



So, you replaced the balun you normally use with New Folger's Crystals.  :-)

Seriously though, I've given this situation a lot of thought, and I'm not
thoroughly convinced an unshielded choke located in the nearfield of a
radiating structure would necessarily attenuate currents flowing on the outside
of the transmission line's shield.

I think even a perfectly functioning, perfectly shielded balun *at the antenna
feedpoint* might be somewhat moot unless the dipole is perfectly straight, and
the feedline is run exactly perpendicular to the dipole (to equalize coupling
to either side of the antenna).

By the same token, I've often wondered just how "balanced" a balanced feedline
really is under similar circumstances.  Maybe twisting the line might help
improve transmission line balance.  Maybe using a tuner that can compensate for
any voltage/current imbalance might be advantageous, as well.  


There are many complicating factors when it comes to antenna installation and
operation.  Fortunately, few, if any, turn out to be of much significance in
the grand scheme of things...


73, de John, KD2BD


Visit John on the Web at:

http://kd2bd.ham.org/
.
.
.
.


   
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing.

http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php

  

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: balun rating exceeded

2007-05-15 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
A few years back I bought a Buxcom G5RV and running 600 watts into it, 
the balun that it came with was toast.  I replaced it with 10 turns of 
coax wrapped around a Folger's coffee can.  Reading what G5RV had 
written about his antenna, he recommended that a balun not be used with 
his antenna.  See last link at 
http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm


Jozef WB2MIC


Brett gazdzinski wrote:
 


What is the benefit of a balun?
I cant run them, as I run legal limit AM which
will toast any balun I ever heard of.

At 100 watts, or QRP, RF in the house cant be an issue,
I don't have problems with the AM and the G5RV right over the house.

I would think it would just add more loss.

I used to have resonant 80 and 40 meter dipoles, but took
them down and built a home made G5RV, #12 wire for the open wire
line, and only about 20 feet of RG214 coax into the tuner
or directly into the K2 with its built in atu.
I will have very high swr on both the open wire line
(does not matter as there is almost no loss),
and the RG214, but there is only 20 feet of that, so I would
guess the loss is slight.

Now I could fit a balun if I just used the K2, but what
would be the advantage?

I hear you should never run a balun with any swr, the losses
go way up. I think they now make tuners with the balun
before the tuner (rig, balun, tuner, antenna) that works
well


Brett
N2DTS




  

The following happened to me a few years ago as a brand new ham in my
pre-Elecraft days and I wonder if anyone can explain to me 
the details.  I
apparently had high swr and exceeded the rating on my balun.  
It suffered
accordingly but didn't completely fail.  The result was when 
I transmitted cw on
40m an internal fuse would blow in the stereo which was on in 
the next room
room.  It took two go rounds before I caught onto the cause 
and effect...  A new

& better balun cured the problem.

At the time I had a Zepp (135') and 4:1 balun at the house 
entrance.  I assume
the ruined balun was emitting all sorts of RF that the stereo 
amplifier picked
up, tried to amplify, and couldn't.  But I don't understand 
exactly what would

make it draw that much current.  Can someone enlighten me?

By the way, since then I put up a dipole, halfwave for 160m, 
about 200' behind

the house.  That's what I should have begun with.

Thanks!
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] RE:MARS

2007-05-11 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Indeed they did.  My Navy MARS callsign used to be N0HNG.

Jozef
WB2MIc

Bob Nielsen wrote:


The MARS callsigns have changed a bit over the years.  At one time 
they used prefixes which are now allocated to amateur radio.


Bob, N7XY
ex- AF6SWE - Air Force Mars (~1954), N0KHM - Navy Mars (~1968)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas

2007-05-08 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
It would seem to me that new rigs today might benefit from a built infra 
red or wireless CW key connection.  Elecraft could then also sell as an 
accessory a wireless paddles, perhaps even a wireless touch paddle.  Of 
course the same could be for microphones for those that are not CW only.


Jozef WB2MIC


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I had been thinking about having a filter parameter memory card, where
you could store the bandwidth/bfo figures from a number of different
alignments and instantly recall and load them. Say you had five banks,
you could have four bandwidths at each of five different
sidetone/offsets. But I don't know enough about this to know why even
this limited option (let alone continuously tracking filters) wouldn't
be practical.

73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Tue, 08 May 2007 22:21:04 +1200, "Nigel & Beryl"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  

I would like to see the ability to toggle or step through say three side
tone settings and have the CW filters automatically track the changes.
On a occasions, especially when the filter is set narrow and the signal is
weak, the filter ringing and the background noise level can mask a
particular sidetone frequency.   Being able to change the CW sidetone can
again un-mask the signal.

73,  Nigel ZL2DF




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Re: [Elecraft] The XYL/OM Issue

2007-05-02 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

I have a solution to the YW/OM issue:

OM: WB2MIC Josef
YW: KA1PMS JeanneE (yes, her real call see http://www.qrz.com/ka1pms
1H: KA1ZWK Guinnevere
2H: N1UKP Dylan
Club: W1PAZ

Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

Darwin, Keith wrote:

Ah, Cathy, this is priceless!

My wife and I are both familiar with that "starry-eyed" look.  She sees
it in me with Elecraft gear and straight keys (and air rifles) and I see
it in her whenever a Carnival cruise ad comes on TV.  We're both pretty
good at saying "no"!!!

Try this.  Next time you're giving your hubby a warm hug, squeeze him
tight and say "I love you".  He'll melt and say "I love you too".  Then,
before the moment fades add "can I get a K3?".

- Keith -


-Original Message-
From:  Cathy James

I was enthusiastically poring through the K3 information last night when
my husband came into the room.  I showed him the rig and was clearly
looking a little starry-eyed.  He looked at me and said, "What do you
need another radio for?  Your current ones work fine!"
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Re: [Elecraft] T Shirt Slogan

2007-04-29 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Dear Elecraft folks:

I know some Elecraft owners are looking to sell their K1 and K2 rigs to 
raise fund for a K3.  I have a friend, Tony K1RW, who is looking for 
either a K1 or K2.  His email and email address follow in an email with 
his request.  If you have a rig K1 or K2 or sale drop him a note at 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  73.


Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

 Original Message 
Subject:Re: How's...
Date:   Sun, 29 Apr 2007 18:42:18 -0500
From:   Anthony Suruda <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jozef Hand-Boniakowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




If by chance you see any offers to sell another K-1 (or better, a K-2), I'd
probably want one to leave in Colorado...  I greatly appreciate your
forwarding the K-1 ad to me, I never would have believed how good the
receiver is.



73, Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] T Shirt Slogan

2007-04-29 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Here's my contribution:

"K3 by Elecraft: It's not your father's radio."

Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

Jesse Justiss wrote:

K3 The affordable expensive radio.
K3 Thousands less for better performance.
K3 The Winners choice.
K3 The standard bearer. 
K3 Uber Alles

K3 And K2 Still better than the rest.
K3 Setting the goals for others to follow.
K3 Now leading the way in performance and fun.
K3 First Ham radio then the world.
K3 More radio less eyewash. (Yaesu)
K3 Phase noise? What phase noise?
K3 I wish the DX had one so he could hear me.
K3 K2 K1 KX1, When you want to be a real ham.
K3 With the whole world making it better, not a
boardroom.

Pictures:
K3 on top of K2 strewn with the competition.

Dealers throwing rocks labeled YaeComWood falling
short of Elecraft radios.

The Yakuza looking at Wayne and Eric's picture.

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Announcing the Elecraft K3 Transceiver: 10/100W, 160-6m, Assembled or Kit

2007-04-28 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Dear OMs/YLs:

I thought you might be interested in my spatial CW reception project.  See:
http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm

It's the second link down.

Jozef WB2MIC

Jim Wiley wrote:
Wayne or Lyle - whichever one of you is awake after the flood of 
emails you have been working through -



Will the new K3 be able to TX on the Alaska emergency frequency of 
5167.5 kHz?  This is close to the 60 meter band, but not a "ham band" 
frequency.  This channel is authorized to hams in or near Alaska for 
use during emergencies, and  contacts between hams and non-hams (for 
example, the police or a commercial HF user) are authorized when the 
situation calls for it.   The authorization is for SSB (USB) only, 150 
watts max output.



Also, this was touched on, but I would like a bit of clarification - 
One of my favorite ways to operate CW during a contest  or DX pileup 
is to use both the main receiver and the sub-receiver in my Yaesu Mark 
5 set to the same frequency but with different filter bandwidths, for 
example 400 Hz on the main and 500 Hz on the sub, which gives a 
quasi-stereo effect to the sound.  When using a stereo headset, the 
different bandwidths make the signals seem to have a spatial 
differentiation that really helps sort out the pile.  The only fly in 
the ointment is that on the Mark 5, you have to hold down a 
front-panel button to get the VFOs to track,  which creates sort of a 
pain where I sit.  Having the ability to have the 2 VFOs track 
automatically would be a big help.



Otherwise, congratulations.  My  K2 works just FB, but the panel is a 
bit small.  Maybe I can think about replacing one or even both of my 
Mark 5s.   Anyone out there want to buy a fully loaded Mark 5?  



regards -


- Jim, KL7CC

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Re: [Elecraft] Announcing the Elecraft K3 Transceiver: 10/100W, 160-6m, Assembled or Kit

2007-04-28 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Looking at the K3 backside, an DB9 serial connector. Was thought given 
to USB and/or Ethernet?


Jozef WB2MIC

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 #1740 - The first 100 QSOs

2007-04-25 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
A bit more on the "what can the K1 do" front.  I completed my K1 #02326 
on Feb 26, 2007.  It went together flawlessly.  I have worked 3 QSOs 
this morning from the mobile on 40 meters with a Workman hamstick.  
Since Feb 26, I have worked 414 QSOs in 48 DXCC entities and 29 states.  
All the QSOs have been either on solar power (4 Siemens 55 watt panels 
and 2KW-hr storage) with a 1/4 wave 40 mtr ground plane and 3 element 
yagi, or from the car.  Main rig is IC756 PRO III which I love, but the 
K1 gives a level of satisfaction that the PRO III cannot provide.


73,

Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

Clark Macaulay wrote:

What a wonderful post, Jim.  Your sense of humor as well as your wisdom as a 
dxer is so refreshing. I'm a new dxer and look forward to your book. I really 
want dxcc qrp!!
   
  100 qso's in a month qrp?  Wow...guess I need to spend more time with the K1 than with the FT-1000Mk V!  Will look for you on 14.060
   
  73 de Clark ke4rq

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Re: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?

2007-04-13 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
With all the talk about Elecraft amps, I have a question.  I have a K1 
which I am very happy with.  I plan to take the rig fixed mobile as I 
find myself often in situations where I often find myself waiting for 
long periods in my car.  I have a 40 and 20 meter mobile antenna coming 
and plan to try my luck at a homebrew portable all band antenna.  But, I 
would like to be able to run more than 5 watts with the K1.  So then, do 
the Elecraft amps lend themselves to such a possibility, or, am I better 
of either homebrewing a 30 - 50 or so watt amp, or kit like the HF 
Project amp kit.  I must not be the only K1 user looking for higher 
output power options.  Thanks.


Jozef WB2MIC

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Re: [Elecraft] solar power

2007-04-10 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I run my Elecraft K1 at home off of four Siemens 55 watt panels.  I use 
a 30 amp charge controller which feed six golf cart batteries that are 6 
volts each at 200 amp-hr.  I have them wired in three pairs go give 12 
vdc at 600 amp-hr.  The panels and the batteries are now 12 years old 
and still running fine.  The batteries also run a 500 watt DC to 120 VAC 
inverter.  I have some photos of the solar setup and house at 
http://www.metaphoria.us//Tiff3/index.html  My ham radio webpage is 
here: http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm  In my opinion, 
one of the best sources for things solar is the Mr. Solar website at: 
http://www.mrsolar.com/


Jozef WB2MIC


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm trying to set up a remote radio location with solar  power.  
Does anyone have current info on the best solar panels and  charger?   
Frank W7is  




** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Voltage Readout Question - Blinking

2007-04-08 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Yes.  My shack does have a low light environment.  I was through direct 
email by two list users that this very slight flicker is normal as there 
is data that is shared on the line.  It's not a problem.  I was curious.


Jozef WB2MIC

Current Subscriptions wrote:

Hi Jozef WB2MIC,

I have checked my K1 (#2294 Christmas 2006) and notice the same effect. There 
is a very faint glimmer on the ATTN LED when 'Batt monitor' is selected. It 
would probably have gone unnoticed. I presume you work in low light conditions. 
I wonder if other K1 owners notice the same.

Cheers - Steve M0ECS.
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[Elecraft] K1 Battery Voltage Readout Question

2007-04-07 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I completed my K1 on 2/26/07 and have worked 44 countries, 27 states and 
285 QSOs.  I love the radio and it has performed well.  I have a 
question about the battery voltage readout and was wondering if this is 
typical or not.  When I put the display function into battery voltage 
the LCD reads battery voltage like it is supposed to (i.e. 12.6) and the 
display blinks every second or so.  What I also notice is the the 
attenuator (ATTN) LED blinks fast ever so slightly at about 10 time per 
second.  This blinking is extremely dim even in darkened conditions but 
noticeable.  Is this normal.  It only happens in the battery voltage mode.


Jozef WB2MIC

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Re: [Elecraft] HF amp kits

2007-04-05 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I have been a ham for 43 plus years (12/23/63) and up to now have not 
heard of any such limitation.


Jozef WB2MIC

David Wilburn wrote:
Just working from memory here, but wasn't there also a limit that the 
amateur could only build one such amp a year?


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Jim Wiley wrote:
The 15 db rule applies only to manufactured for sale amplifiers.  It 
does not apply to amplifiers that an individual ham builds for him or 
herself, particularly when a a kit is not involved..  Section 97.317 
of the rules, which is where the 15  db rule appears, applies to the 
certification of external RF power amplifiers that a manufacturer 
offers for sale.  Home-made amplifiers do not require certification.  
They must still meet some standards, such as those involving purity 
of emissions (harmonics, for example) and of course must not be 
operated above 1500 watts PEP, but that's pretty much it.


I am unsure of how the rule applies to kits, but I think they would 
be considered a "manufactured product" if all the parts needed to 
complete the amplifier are contained, in the kit.  If, however, a 
"kit" contained only some of the parts, and could not in itself be 
assembled into a working amplifier without adding extra parts, then 
the certification rule probably  would not apply.


It would be perfectly legal for a ham to build a home-brew 
grid-driven amplifier that  could take  the 10 watt signal from his 
K2 and boost it  to 1500 watts output.  Such an amplifier would have 
(roughly) 22 db of gain.   A pair of 4CX800 tubes could accomplish 
this, I think.   Remember also that the old Johnson Thunderbolt could 
be operated in grid-driven mode, and it had (still has, if you can 
find one) similar performance, using a pair of 4-400 tubes.



- Jim, KL7CC







Chris Kantarjiev wrote:



The Linear Amp kits seem to need a fair amount of drive. I've been
idly thinking about a linear that would allow me to drive it with
my barefoot K2 and get 600-800 watts out for CW.




The limit is 15 dB and is still in the requirements despite the  
recent loosening of Part 97.  That should give something over 400  
watts when driven by a K2. I don't recall whether the "easily- 
modifiable" rule is still there, so it may be possible to have an 
amp  with an attenuator on the front-end (I heard that one of the 
Tokyo  High Power amps does this, but haven't verified that).


73, Bob N7XY


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Re: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!

2007-04-02 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I will take issue that using a bug or keyer is "cheating".  I can copy 
CW at 30 wpm but there is no way that I can send that fast using a 
straight key, nor can any other ham that I know.  There are multiple CW 
sending skills that include straight key, bug, single and dual lever 
paddles, and touch keys.  Each has its place and I like to be good at 
all of them through practice.  As for high speed CW, it's not a matter 
of "razzle and dazzle" bur rather (for me) being the best one can be.  A 
good CW QSO at 15 wpm is a pleasure, indeed. But, I prefer a much faster 
CW QSO.   I cannot help but admire Theodore Roosevelt McElroy and his 
ability to copy CW at 77 WPM.  See: 
http://www.telegraph-office.com/pages/mcelroy.html  This was an amazing 
accomplishment as were his famous McElroy speed keys (bugs).  I would 
hardly call McElroy's using his keys as "cheating".


Jozef Hand-Boniakowski WB2MIC
Wells VT

Brett gazdzinski wrote:
 
I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's 
in the past, like 20 years ago.


Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super

I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very
poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who
always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H...

I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters
but drool them all together.

I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind
of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be 
entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with 
my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you?

My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think.
(remember THEM?)

I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20
years, and don't think it was ever very quality...

Brett
N2DTS





  

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM

To: Brett gazdzinski
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!

Hi Brett:



Can anyone recommend a good basic key?
I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts
are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes.
  

Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE?

If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, 
I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but 
something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully 
intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of 
sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent 
straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist 
goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears 
of the op on the other end.


If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much 
you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to 
use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the 
length of time you'll use it.


Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get 
terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably 
a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what 
it'll be worth to you.


Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/  )offers a fairly wide range 
of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices.


Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on 
the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY.


Regarding your R/S brass straight key:

  1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged'
 down to the point that they make good electrical contact but
 NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly!

  2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!!

 NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the
 contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed
 in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd
 swipe!

 A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful
 job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any
 exists).

  3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings).

  4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to
 your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT
 have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer
 some resistance

  5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile
 AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a
 business card is a good starting point for setting beginning
 contact spacing.

  6) PRACTICE A LOT

73,

Tom HammondN0SS




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Re: [Elecraft] Cabinet resonance

2007-03-30 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
The K1 with the speaker does the same thing albeit at a higher 
frequency.  A couple of extra screws dead center on the top cover on 
either side might cure that?  What do people think?  I use headphones 
most of the time, but the lid resonance is not the best thing when 
showing the rig off.


Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

Ken Kopp wrote:

The combination of the cabinet and speaker of my
K2 (#5665) has a VERY pronounced resonance at about 450 Hz.  How 
fortunate, as this is the frequency at which I like to copy CW. (:-)


The resonance is so pronounced that it would present
a problem if I wanted to use a higher frequency, say
600 Hz.  It initially caused me a bit of consternation as I was 
setting up the filters ... until I realized what was going on.  Even 
with the filter set up for 600 Hz I would still find myself tuned and 
listening lower than the "Spot" tone ... sort of a human AFC circuit. 
(:-)


Has anyone else noted this?  I wonder if all the speakers supplied 
with K2's are of the same design from the same supplier?


Mine -does- have all options installed except the battery
and I assume the resonant frequency of the box would be
different ... or non-existant ... with different "fillers" inside
the case.

I have two of the "old" Skytech variable-resonance speakers stored 
away that are fine examples of the application of housing / speaker 
resonance as a CW aid.  They use a sliding tube to "tune" the  assembly.


73!  Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] Vertical Antennas

2007-03-24 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Last summer, using spare tubing and tubing from an old 14AVQ I put up a 
33-foot 1/4 wave 40 meter vertical.  I laid down 32 radials of various 
sized with 16 of them being 32 feet long.  There is an RF choke at both 
the tuner and the base of the vertical.  Using this vertical I have 
worked 150 countries on 40 meters (my total is 216 since I started over 
on 01/01/05).  I use a Palstar AT1500CV tuned in the shack and run RG8X 
buried to the vertical.  I run an IC756 PRO III and a Yaesu FL2100B when 
needed.  I also run my newly build (3/6/07) K1.  I have worked 40 
countries and 26 states, 200 QSOs using that vertical.  It works great 
on 40, 30 and 17.  Best on 40 and I can always work anything I can hear 
including BY, YB, 4X4, 3Y0, R1, etc.  For the money $0.00, who can 
complain.  See: http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm  And 
yes, I need to add a webpage on the new K1 and the four 55-watt solar 
panels from which it draws power.  :)


Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT


Stuart Rohre wrote:
Both the half wave and 5/8 wave antennas are complete resonant structures 
without the need for radials.  See L. B. Cebik's web site, www.cebik.com for 
his discussion modeling half wave verticals, and little was gained by 
modeling radials under them.


The reflections you are concerned about are in the range beyond the Fresnel 
Zone, some 5 or more wavelengths out from the vertical.  Short 1/4 wave 
verticals need radials to complete the circuit and return RF current to the 
feedpoint.


You can feed with a link, and possibly not need the cable choke.  But, the 
cable choke is good insurance in any case.  The whole issue is one of 
balance and if the feeder leads off vertically under the vertical, there is 
minimal pickup of RF by its outer conductor.  Of course, if it is at right 
angles to the vertical directly at the feed point, there is more chance of 
current reaching the outer conductor inducing unbalance.


An efficient ground for a 1/2 wave vertical is any whose impedance is say 
1/10 of the feedpoint impedance of the vertical conductor, which is 
typically around 3000 ohms, depending on how close it is to RF earth at the 
base of antenna.  So, a ground of 300 ohms would work in this case, while it 
would way inefficient for a quarter wave vertical, which needs a return 
conductors impedance of less than 3.6 ohms or so.  (36 ohms base impedance 
on theoretical quarter wave vertical, base fed.)  You want the ground to be 
a much more attractive path for RF than the other impedances in the system.


73,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 compared to others rigs

2007-03-24 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I used an Icom IC701 from 1978 thru 2006.  A decent radio for its time.  
I replaced it with an IC 756 PRO III (Dec 2006) and the new radio blew 
the IC701 out of the  water.  In my opinion the PRO III is a superb 
radio.  When looking for a new radio I was told to stay away from the 
Jupiter. I'm glad I did, but for the price I suspect it is OK.   I heard 
good things about the IC746, but I wanted more than just a replacement 
radio for my IC701.  I am not disappointed.  In every way, I love he PRO 
III.  It is, however, more expensive than the IC746, about twice the 
price.  Ouch.  But, I would do it again.  Good luck.  I just completed 
the Elecraft K1 and like it very much also.


Jozef WB2MIC

Phil Zminda wrote:

Now that I've been using my K2 serial # 5719 for a while, I am a bit 
disappointed in my Ten-Tec Jupiter, particularly when there are strong CW 
signals on adjacent frequencies. I was always a Ten-Tec fan and loved my 
Corsair II, but wanted to try a newer design radio. Now, I'm thinking of 
selling or trading the Jupiter, but I wonder what's out there in the $1200 to 
$1500 range (new or used) that might be a step up from the Jupiter in receiver 
performance. Without opening up a can of worms, I'd like to hear some feedback 
on the IC 746 Pro, Ten-Tec Omni VI, TS-2000 or any others I may have 
over-looked. What else are you guys using?

Thanks for this great resource. It's been a great help in getting to know my K2.

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Questions - Recent Build

2007-03-15 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
I completed my K1 about a month ago and have worked 124 QSOs in 25 
countries and 18 states.  DX on 40 has been as easy as DX on 20.  I run 
it on four 55-watt Siemens solar panels and six 200 amp-hr 6 volt deep 
cycle batteries (now 12 years old).  The RIT on my K1 does nothing when 
it is off.  It does not alter frequency nor does it change the freq 
display.  I stayed away from the internal battery option as I am not 
interested in opening and closing the box when I want to change 
batteries.  I'm planing on a gel cell, flexible solar panel and charge 
controller for use in the field this summer.  No comments on the bail.  
I have the noise blanker, but am in the country in the rural hills of 
Vermont so have not had the chance nor need of using it, yet.


Jozef WB2MIC


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello group,

Its been a Elecraft month, first the KX1 and now I just finished up 
the K1.
After three evenings of effort I was able to complete K1 serial #02341 
last night and go through the testing procedure.
All went quite well, but I have a few questions, perhaps some of your 
other K1ers can help?


1) The front panel "offset" pot alters the RX frequency even when RIT 
is off.
With the RIT off, turning the pot causes the displayed freq. changes, 
and does the same thing with the RIT is engaged as well.

Is this normal, or do I have a problem here?

2) What are your thoughts on the battery option offered by Elecraft?

3) Is there a small bail or support that anyone has used to raise the 
front of the RX up a bit?
Mine is now sitting on a roll of solder, but some type of flip down 
bail would be ideal


4) Noise blanker, how well does it work? I built mine last night and 
installed it, not quite as a severe as I expected.
I understand an LED can be used in place of one of the caps, can 
someone speak to the difference this makes?


Thanks for your help!


73 Bruce W1UJR
www.w1ujr.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Tororids

2007-03-06 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Perhaps, I will run afoul with the list crowd, but from the get go on my 
first Elecraft kit, a K1, S/N 02326 (finished 5 days ago), I could not 
get fond of burning the enamel off.  I tried the fine sand paper route 
wrapping a 3 inch long X .5 in wide strip around a plastic drinking 
straw and securing with tape at just the ends of the wrap.  That worked 
but was far too slow.  So, I went back to the way I had done it as a kid 
and used a small sharp pen knife at 30 degree angle away from the toroid 
while rotating the wire.  I found I had the best control using the pen 
knife, being able to start the stripping precisely where I wanted.  I 
wore magnifying safety glasses and made no nicks that I could see.  The 
K1 fired up perfectly the first time and has been running ever since 
(about a week).  22 countries and 17 states worked so far on solar 
power.  Love this little radio.


Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

Rich McCabe (IWH) wrote:

No it won't but not sure that is going to help you.

What method are you using to tin the leads?

I as well as most others have had great success just burning the enamel off
with solder and an iron. I keep a 40 watt iron hot and just keep feeding
fresh solder to it with the  winding lead on the iron. The enamel always
melts and the impurities flow away.

You need to get that coating removed 100%. 


Tell us a little more about your technique.

Rich
Kd0zv




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Al & Dianne Bruce
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:46 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids 



I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite 
  of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept

  solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
  interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Vertical Antennas

2007-03-02 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
My observations.  2 years go, I put up a homebrew made of leftover 
tubing 33 ft vertical using an old Hustler 5BTV mount.  A 3-1/2 inch 
galvanized pipe, hacksawed at one end into a 30 degree (angle) point was 
sledge driven into the ground as a mount stake.  It is guyed with 3 
ropes at the 18-ft level and secured with wood stakes.  I feed it 
directly at the bottom with RG8X small coax.  I have put down 32 
radials.  Since 6/2005, I have worked 212 countries and worked all 
states numerous times, including QRP.  I run a IC756 Pro III.  I also 
work plenty of DX using my Elecraft K1 which I just finished building.  
I used the vertical on 40 where it works the best and has a 1:1 SWR.  I 
also use it on 30, 17 and 15 meters.  I am amazed how well it works on 
17 and 15 meters.  I use a Palstar AT1500CV.  I can work anything I hear 
and I hear plenty.  I don't get too excited about SWR.  If the 
transmitter sees a 1:1 on TX side of the tuner using the Palstar, I will 
see what the antenna can do.  Other antennas are 133ft inverted-L.  
G5RV.  And A3 at 40 feet.  My K1's antenna tuner matches to the vertical 
just fine.  When the weather warms up, I'm going to hit the mountain 
tops of Vermont (my home) with a disposable party helium canister and 
float a 66ft vertical on 40 meters.  Being 1/2 wavelength it should not 
need any radials.  BTW, the vertical ad RG8X takes 600 watts using a 
Yaesu FL2100B just fine, for those times when I want to run an 
indefinite string of DX QSOs back-to-back.  I am CW only.


Jozef
WB2MIC
Wells VT

Trevor Day wrote:

Hi Mike,
I just want to respond to one aspect of your post which, 
co-incidentally, I have been discussing elsewhere this week.  Thats 
the business of using an ATU.  Essentially the document you read is 
correct; any adjustments to obtain a good match to the transmitter in 
an aerial of this type (trapped vertical, yagi, dipole etc.) should be 
done by adjusting the aerial itself.


Placing an ATU at the tx end of the feeder (or built in as in the K2) 
is fine for small adjustments at, for example, band edges to prevent 
the SWR protection circuit from reducing the power out whilst still 
protecting the PA.
Attempting to compensate for large mismatches with an ATU at the tx 
end of the feeder may result in an apparently good match, but will in 
most cases cause the feeder to radiate.


Exceptions to this are when the feeder is of the balanced variety, eg. 
open wire, where the feeder carries a 'balanced' standing wave as a 
matter of course.


In your case, adjust the vertical for best match on each band, 
starting with the highest frequency band, and without using the ATU in 
the K2. Once you are happy you have the best match you can on each 
band, then the K2's ATU can be used to perfect the match before 
operating.


HTH
Trev G3ZYY

In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Mike Walkington 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes

Hi All,

I've moved to a new house and I'm trying to get a Hustler 5BTV working
really well with my K2 in my new location. I plan to install the 
antenna in
a ground plane configuration on a 2 storey home and feed it with 
coax. I was
planning to use a few quarter wave radial for each of the bands of 
interest.


I've had problems with TVI using this antenna before, so this time I 
will
use some sort of a choke to block currents on the outer surface of 
the coax

braid. Any suggestions on what I should use?

How should I protect myself from lightning? I initially thought about
running a lead from the base of the antenna to ground, but the length of
this would probably turn the antenna into a vertical dipole.

I was reading some doco for this antenna and read the following: 
Never use

an antenna tuner to tune the antenna.Use of a tuner only fools the
transmitter and does not correct a problem at the antenna.
This doesn't seem right can I use my K2's tuners?

Finally, I've been reading Moxon's HF Antennas for All Locations, and he
doesn't seem to recommend quarter wave radials for ground planes. I'm 
not

sure I comprehend why. Is anyone familiar with his concerns?


Mike
VK1KCK, K2 #2599

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[Elecraft] K1 KIT COMMENTS

2007-02-25 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Thank you all for the help so far.  I just completed the (K1) receiver 
and the receiver alignment.  Everything is perfect.  I was just a couple 
of KHz off before calibration on each band.  Signals are jumping out of 
the receiver on 40 and 30 meters.  The 20 meter band is in fair to poor 
shape, but the K1 is receiving fine.  15 is dead.  The concern about the 
thin CLEAR plastic covering in the backlight kit was unfounded.  I 
removed the clear covering as per the confusing instructions and was 
told that this covering was part of the light diffusion system and the 
backlighting would be "unbalanced".  The backlighting is perfect.  The 
receiver draws 65.5 ma.with the backlighting.  On to the transmitter.  
The K1 is a pleasure and fun to build


73, Jozef
WB2MUC
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Resistance Issue

2007-02-22 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski

Hello Don and others:

Thank you kindly.  This lists collective wisdom appreciated.  I will 
cease and desist using the analog meter until my DMM arrives.  May I 
suggest that Elecraft consider upgrading their recommendation about not 
using an analog meter to a warning which includes the possibility of 
component damage from using an analog meter.  I was aware of the 
possibility of inaccurate readings, but not of possible damage to 
components.  I stand educated.


73, Jozef WB2MIC

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jozef,

Yes your analog meter CAN be thowing your readings off by that much.
Do not use an analog meter to do resistance checks on solid state equipment.
Many make resistance measurements by applying a voltage to the circuit under
test, and that voltage is high enough to turn on solid state junctions and
may actually destroy solid state devices.

Measuring voltages and currents with an analog meter may often be OK, but
definitely NOT resistance measurements.

73,
Don W3FPR

  

-Original Message-

Hello to the list.

This is my first posting on my K1 kit building issues via the Elecraft
reflector.  Thanks to all in advance.  I am awaiting the delivery of a
digital multimeter for making resistance/voltage checks, but started
construction nonetheless.  I have a cheap analog meter, however, and
thought that when I get to the resistance check parts I would use it,
but not proceed until the DMM gets here.

I completed the 4 band filter bard and the front panel (minus the 10
turn potentiometer) up to the point where the resistance checks are to
be made (page 22), and, here is where my analog meter says that I am way
off.  The backlight kit was installed, by the way, as per its (somewhat
confusing instructions) which then returned me to the page where the
resistance checks are made.  I get the following big discrepancies:

Test pts (+)   ResistanceMeasured
DS1 (LCD pins 1-24)   >100K  around 2K each to ground
J1 pin 6 >100K 10K
J1 pin 7 >100K  5.8 to 7K (moves up))
J1 pin 8 >100K  5.8 to 7K (moves up)
J1 pin 10   90-200K  2.3K
J1 pin 12   >100K  5.1 to 7K (moves up)
J1 pin 15   <50K28K  (yippie!)
J1 pin 16   15-18K9K
J1 pin 19   >100K  5.8 to 7K (moves up)

Something is definitely awry here.  I don't see any bridges, cold
joints, nor missed components/joints, incorrectly placed parts.
However, with the LCD installed along with the backlit display, there is
no way to recheck the pins of the 40 pin MCU from the top of the board,
only to look under the socket from the sides.  I have rechecked all the
component placement and the solder connections 3 times.  I cannot find
any errors or solder issues.  So then, can the analog meter be throwing
me that far off?  I doubt it.  Your expertise is requested in offering
advice.

73, Jozef WB2MIC



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[Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Resistance Issue

2007-02-22 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Hello to the list. 

This is my first posting on my K1 kit building issues via the Elecraft 
reflector.  Thanks to all in advance.  I am awaiting the delivery of a 
digital multimeter for making resistance/voltage checks, but started 
construction nonetheless.  I have a cheap analog meter, however, and 
thought that when I get to the resistance check parts I would use it, 
but not proceed until the DMM gets here. 

I completed the 4 band filter bard and the front panel (minus the 10 
turn potentiometer) up to the point where the resistance checks are to 
be made (page 22), and, here is where my analog meter says that I am way 
off.  The backlight kit was installed, by the way, as per its (somewhat 
confusing instructions) which then returned me to the page where the 
resistance checks are made.  I get the following big discrepancies:


Test pts (+)   ResistanceMeasured
DS1 (LCD pins 1-24)   >100K  around 2K each to ground
J1 pin 6 >100K 10K
J1 pin 7 >100K  5.8 to 7K (moves up))
J1 pin 8 >100K  5.8 to 7K (moves up)
J1 pin 10   90-200K  2.3K
J1 pin 12   >100K  5.1 to 7K (moves up)
J1 pin 15   <50K28K  (yippie!)
J1 pin 16   15-18K9K
J1 pin 19   >100K  5.8 to 7K (moves up)

Something is definitely awry here.  I don't see any bridges, cold 
joints, nor missed components/joints, incorrectly placed parts.  
However, with the LCD installed along with the backlit display, there is 
no way to recheck the pins of the 40 pin MCU from the top of the board, 
only to look under the socket from the sides.  I have rechecked all the 
component placement and the solder connections 3 times.  I cannot find 
any errors or solder issues.  So then, can the analog meter be throwing 
me that far off?  I doubt it.  Your expertise is requested in offering 
advice.


73, Jozef WB2MIC
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