Re: [Elecraft] Import duties on amateur radio items

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "TF3KX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Import duties on amateur radio items




The "import duty" is not the problem, but the VAT 
(somewhat similar to the US
sales tax), which is exceedingly high in many European 
countries.


I wonder if anyone tops the Icelandic VAT, 24.5%, which is 
added on the
total package value:  Content price + shipping + 
insurance.  Additionally, I
may be charged for the paperwork ($10-20), and to top it 
all they may
occasionally request a permit from the Post and Telegraph 
Authorities for
"radio components".  This is what I had to go through when 
ordering my K2 a

couple of months ago.



Kristinn,

Oh!  That's nasty!  And they charge VAT on your 
shipping and insurance too!  Very punitive I would say.  I 
guess the U.K. does that too.  I can sort of understand 
including shipping, as it is a cost of acquisiton. 
Insurance, though, seems like a bit of a stretch.  But both 
seem inequitable if you consider the (fortunate) person who 
can carry the product in, and avoid the VAT charge for 
shipping and insurance.  On the other hand, taxes are rarely 
equitable!


This raises a question in my mind for you VAT payers.  If 
you pay the VAT, and then discover that your item has been 
more or less destroyed in shipping, do you get any refund on 
the VAT?  What happens on the replacement item, assuming you 
get one?  Perhaps your comment about the replacement part 
suggests you wouldn't pay the VAT twice.


I know Iceland is expensive, and the economy is fragile to 
some extent, but I didn't realize it was so harsh on its 
citizens who are forced to import many things, or go 
without.  However, I know it's a beautiful place with a 
fascinating history.  We did try to go there a few years 
ago.  Unfortunately, our cruise ship ran into a hurricane. 
We apparently got within about 150 miles of Reykjavik, and 
the captain had to give up.  The props on the ship came out 
of the water twice!  So, missed the chance to make a small 
contribution to the economy there.  Very disappointing.



Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] Alternatives to PowerPoles?

[T. David Yarnes]

I'm struggling a bit to understand your preference to the 
Molex connectors.  I find them troublesome from the 
standpoint of making your own connectors as opposed to the 
APP's.  By the way, I think the "standard" Molex seems to be 
the 6 pin rather than the 4 pin--at least of late.  My Icom 
and Kenwood rigs use the 6 pin, and the same pinout pattern. 
The Molex connectors are nice in that they are gendered, and 
they lock.  I certainly like that.  But I question that they 
are more durable.  I just stepped on an APP (with my 200 
plus pounds), and nothing happened--it's still fine.


My biggest concern with APP's is that they don't lock 
together.  It hasn't been a problem, but it just seems it 
could be.  They do make some plastic accessory clamps to 
hold two connections together--guess I should try those.


But for me, it's all about how easy it is to put together a 
connection, and the APP's seem the easiest right now by far. 
However, I crimp, which you (and several others) don't like. 
But I concluded from the arguments back and forth about 
soldering vs. crimping that soldering was just fine for most 
uses since we aren't using them in high stress situations 
more often than not.  But I did not conclude that soldering 
was better!  It was just that most seemed to feel it was 
only important if you were dealing with issues like jet 
plane vibrations, etc.  I'll certainly buy that.  But I 
think you still have to draw the ultimate conclusion from 
that argument that crimping is better, but not necessary! 
Maybe most would agree with that, and I would too.


So, I would conclude that the popularity of APP's is 
substantially because they are fast and easy, yet effective. 
They are fastest if you crimp.  It would be nice, however, 
if they locked together, and maybe it would be better if 
they were gendered.  Also, many folks want to standardize 
their connections.  That too is more easily done using 
APP's.


APP's are not the ultimate answer--not by a long shot.  But 
they do serve a good purpose for many.  If that wasn't true, 
people wouldn't be using them so much.  If you don't like 
them, don't use them.  If you don't like the fact that the 
K3 has them, make a pigtail adapter, and then use what you 
want.  That's certainly easy enough to do.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Charles Harpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alternatives to PowerPoles?



The major 13vdc ham radio equipment input power connector is 
the 4 pin Molex.  This connector has proven in thousands of 
uses to be adequate to the voltage, the current, and the 
physical demands of this utilization.  It is the de facto 
standard on K, I, and Y radios (for the vast majority) and 
the single only connector (other than the PL259-SO etc) that 
all three mfgs. amazingly agree on, making at least this 
matter so much easier for hams with different equipment 
mfgs.The four pins are often all used to increase the power 
handling capacity of the two-wire application.  However, 
theMolex in all its pin configurations has a number of 
drawbacks -one time installation (unless the use of a 
special tool to retract the installed pins is used), i.e., 
not reusable,-lack of strain relief.-lack of positive 
attachment fixture (i.e., it could be accidentaly pulled out 
rather easily).Good points are resistance to crush (step 
on), can stand multiple plug in and out, is very well keyed 
and can take solder with care.  It is reasonably available, 
but not in India, for example.  It does not need glue. 
Formerly, some mfgs. used a two pin mic connector which 
likely had the power handling ok, took soldering well altho 
the pins are close together, and had both a great positive 
attachment (screw on) and a fairly good strain relief. 
Drawback was possible confusion of thisconnector with a 
mic.The Cinch Jones is a good alternative because it comes 
in many pin configurations, including two, is very well 
keyed, takes soldering very well, has a good strain relief, 
is vy reusable, is medium resistant to crush, can be pulled 
out too easily, is widely available (altho its uses are 
dropping, restricting its availability), The size of the 
two-pin version is nearly the same as the 4 pin Molex.  The 
A Power Poles are the weakest of this line up of connectors 
and a very strange choice for ham radio applications.Charles 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   > 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: 7.2 pound tuning knob

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "S Sacco" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: 7.2 pound tuning knob


Elecraft has already been well rewarded for their efforts: 
If we
assume they've shipped 650 K3's @ $2,200 (I thought I'd 
err on the
lower-end of the range), they're received $14,300,000 in 
revenue.

Revenue NOT = Profit, obviously.


Steve,

I might like your math!  At least if you were making change 
for a $100 bill.  I might get $950 back on a $50 
purchase  Your total should be $1,430,000---not 
$14,300,000!  Sorry to say you erred on the high end, rather 
than the low end!  But what's a few million here and there?


Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Expedition version

[T. David Yarnes]

I had a fairly long and enjoyable QSO the other evening with 
K7HI (Howard) on 40 meters.  He was using an NC40A and a 
whip antenna on a container ship returning from Hawaii to 
Seattle.  He was about 1200 miles SW of Seattle at the time. 
Anyway, his signal was outstanding for just 2 watts.  He was 
579 to 599 the entire QSO.  It's gotta be the water!


Dave W7AQK



- Original Message - 
From: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Expedition version



At 08:46 AM 05/04/08, you wrote:


It's amazing what 100W will do from a good 
location on salt
water...even on the low bands.  I  hope to experience this 
myself in the

coming years.

   73,  Bill 
W4ZV


Salt water is funny stuff. It seems to work better around 
rare DX islands than it does, like say, from a beach in 
Florida. Wonder why?


John
k7up
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Re: [Elecraft] Crimped connectors

[T. David Yarnes]

Jerry and All,

This seems to be pretty much the same rationale that I've 
heard over the last few years as APP's became more popular. 
A soldered connection can create something almost too stiff 
or rigid, and can break more easily over time.  A properly 
crimped connection leaves the wire strands naturally pliable 
near the joint, and apparently this is much less subject to 
failure.  I'm sure there is a right way and a wrong way to 
solder a connection properly, but it does seem to me that 
there are a lot of variables in making a good connection 
such as iron temperature, wire size, surface area, etc. etc. 
When I first got my good APP crimper, I tried a couple of 
test connections to see if I could pull them apart.  I 
couldn't!  I've also experienced more than once a soldered 
connection that ultimately just snapped off.  So, maybe I'm 
happy in my ignorance, but a properly crimped connections 
seems pretty effective.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 8:47 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Crimped connectors


Only to make a point, not an argument...I worked for 30 
years at Grumman and we built most of the Navy's aircraft, 
which are subject to a highly corrosive environment...All 
connections, thousands of them, were crimped using 
"Stakons", the trade name for those little red, blue, and 
yellow terminal lugs...AMP was the manufacturer of both the 
tools and the terminals...Soldering was grounds for a 
"crab", or rejection of the connection...Solder can wick up 
the wire under the insulation causing a rigid condition 
subject to vibration fatigue...Also, the heat from soldering 
distorts  the red, blue, or yellow insulation sleeve on the 
terminal lug compromising it's integrity...Of course there 
were a few connectors that had pins that had to be soldered, 
but not many...The pins in most of the connectors by Cannon, 
Amphenol, Deutch, etc. were crimped...


Rivet and skin corrosion on the outside of the aircraft is 
much more of a problem than corrosion of crimped wire 
connections...


Jerry, wa2dkg___
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[Elecraft] Noise Blanker

[T. David Yarnes]

I have a question, and probably I missed something already 
posted that would explain it.  I plead guilty to not reading 
all the posts as carefully as I probably should.


Anyway, this morning I found myself again dealing with the 
"Chinese radar" on 40 meter CW.  This thing comes and goes. 
It isn't there every day, but when it is there, it's loud! 
Previously I have been able to pretty much eliminate this 
interference just by engaging the noise blanker.  This 
morning, however, the noise blanker seemed to have very 
little effect on it.  I was able to eliminate some of the 
problem using the manual notch, but when you do that, you 
start creating problems with the CW signal you are trying to 
copy.  So, my question is, has there been a change in the 
firmware updates that would have possibly reduced the noise 
blanker's effect on this type of interference?  Currently I 
am using V. 1.75 firmware, as I decided not to update to 
1.78 after hearing about some of the issues it created.  I 
suppose it could just be that the radar signal itself 
varies, and that today it was such that the noise blanker 
couldn't deal with it.  I did try to go through all the 
various settings for the noise blanker, but nothing seemed 
to do any good.  Also, I may be imagining this, but it does 
seem that the noise blanker was better with the radar 
problem when I initially got my K3, but has progressively 
deteriorated somewhat.  But today it went from dealing with 
it very well (but not totally) on my last encounter, to 
having no real effect today.  Originally it seemed to wipe 
out the radar interference almost totally.


Dave W7AQK



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Re: [Elecraft] 6 Meter Questions - OT

[T. David Yarnes]

Keith,

I'm probably not the one to answer this, but I will tell you 
of my limited experience on 6.  Last year was my first real 
venture on 6 meters.  I was tinkering with my FT-897D last 
spring, and ran across several locals.  I was actually using 
my R7 vertical, which supposedly doesn't do 6 meters.  But 
it would load using the antenna tuner.  Anyway, talking to 
the locals was o.k., but since I was vertically polarized 
they couldn't hear me as well as I could hear them.  I was 
Q5, but not loud.  Subsequently, I did make several longer 
distance contacts using the R7, so once you get a bounce or 
two the polarization problem doesn't seem as bad.  But the 
antenna itself was pretty poor.  I did work into the 
midwest, southeast, and northwest.  All of these were 
presumably sporadic E contacts.  It was fun.


Now I have an R8 up, which does supposedly do 6 meters, but 
I haven't made any contacts with it.  So far I haven't heard 
much on 6, but my monitoring is intermittent.  But I am 
anxious to see if at least the locals hear me any better on 
an antenna that presumably does do 6 meters--they probably 
won't because of polarization, but I still want to see how 
it goes.


Now I have built the 6 meter Moxon I posted about earlier. 
That will be the antenna I use (hopefully) when things start 
to perk up.  It's basically a 2 element antenna--driven 
element and reflector.  Pretty easy to build.  I put it up 
on a pole yesterday, and I was pleased with the readings I 
got on my antenna analyzer.  The antenna seems resonant a 
bit high--around 50.6 mhz, but at 50.1 it's about 1:3 to 1, 
which should be just fine.  What I need now are some signals 
so I can check it for front to back, etc.  Unfortunately, in 
my neighborhood I can't just put it up and leave it up.  I'm 
skating on thin ice with the R8 already!  So I just attach 
it to a telescoping pole, and run it up 20 or 25 feet, which 
isn't too hard because the antenna is pretty lightweight.


There are probably lots of 6 meter antennas around that you 
could try.  Some folks say you can throw up most anything 
during sporadic E and get results.  Obviously though, 
something with real gain is preferable.


If anyone is interested in a 2 element beam capable of being 
set up for any band from 20 through 6 meters, you might 
check out Vern Wright's portable beam 
(www.superantennas.com).   I have one of those also, but 
right now it is at another location, and I can't use it for 
the time being.  But it is a heck of an antenna for portable 
and field use.  Vern is in the process of putting out a 3 
element version.  The 2 element version will probably get 
you 4 db or so of gain.  On 6 meters you don't have to go up 
all that high to get a nice low take-off angle.  If my math 
is right, a half-wave on 6 is only about 9 feet, so anything 
above that should show some nice results.  The 6 meter Moxon 
I built should give me maybe 3 db (I said maybe!), and that 
is even easier to put up on a pole since it is smaller.


As for frequency, I think the standard calling frequency for 
SSB is 50.125 mhz.  CW is 50.095 I think.  But when things 
are cooking, you can probably find stuff all around those 
frequencies.


So, use what you have, but some upgrading in the antenna 
would probably help a lot.  I'm sure others have some good 
suggestions for you.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Darwin, Keith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 5:45 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 6 Meter Questions - OT


I've never been on 6.  Never.  My K3 will cover it so I'm 
gonna give it

a try.

What do I need for an antenna?  Will a multi-band vertical 
like the
Hy-Gain AV-620 give good performance on 6 meters?  Should I 
put up a 2
or 3 element yagi?  I'm lazy and very busy so building 
something just
isn't really in the cards right now.  If I do the yagi 
thing, I'll have
no rotor so I'll just point the antenna one direction and 
leave it.
Living in VT, I can point it a bit south of west and cover a 
big chunk
of the US.  A 2 element yagi would give a wider pattern and 
might be

workable.

What modes?  I assume CW is just fine on that band or does 
everyone run

SSB or FM?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 maybe next week? -
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: UPS Rates - Editorial Comment

[T. David Yarnes]

I'm not all that familiar with UPS rates now and previously. 
But it doesn't make much sense that rates would have 
"skyrocketed" just because of the increased cost of fuel. 
If this has indeed happened, then I think UPS is using fuel 
costs as an excuse to inordinately raise prices.  Fuel costs 
are only part of the overall cost of shipping, and they 
shouldn't represent the majority of the overall cost.  Like 
most other services, salaries, equipment costs, facility 
costs, etc. should represent most of the cost.  Fuel costs 
may have doubled, or nearly so, in the past year, but that 
should only apply to a portion of the overall cost.  They 
can spread this increased cost over a lot of packages.  If 
this weren't true, you would see similar increases in food 
costs, etc.  These have gone up too, but not as dramatically 
as you make it sound for shipping of packages.  But you 
don't say how much the increase really is, so I can't make 
any kind of real comparison.


USPS priority mail has been a very cost effective way to 
ship smaller packages and envelopes for some time.  It has 
always been cheaper than UPS, and I find it to generally be 
faster!  The one thing that is lacking is the ability to 
track your package.  If I am given the option, I usually 
choose USPS priority mail.  I've never had a problem using 
that option, but I must admit the lack of tracking is 
something that would make me nervous if it were something 
truly valuable being shipped.  Priority mail can be 1 to 2 
days faster than UPS.  I'm not sure you could send something 
as big as a radio by Priority Mail, but perhaps a smaller 
radio would be allowed size wise.  But I don't think I would 
be shipping my K3 via USPS.  I want to know exactly where it 
is all the way to the destination.  The tracking systems 
used by FedEx and UPS pretty much guarantee your package 
won't get lost.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Lee Buller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 


Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: UPS Rates - Editorial Comment


You would be hard pressed to beat the USPS today.  The 
Priority Mail flat rate

service is the way to go.  Check here:

http://www.usps.com/shipping/flatrate.htm?from=priority&page=flatrate 



$4.60 for an envelope and $8.95 for a box.   Whatever you 
can fit in it, and they

furnish the box or envelope too. Free sizes here:

http://shop.usps.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductCategoryDisplay?catalogId=10152&storeId=10001&categoryId=13359&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=11820&top_category=11820 



I've abandoned a purchase when the vendor could or would 
not use this service.
Why pay 2 or more times the USPS rate for ground service 
across the country by
one of the Big 3 carriers taking 5 days, this is usually 3 
day service.


No, I'm not a Postal Employee just a satisfied user of the 
service. I'll concede
that the tracking of a package is not as good. All you get 
is pick up and delivery.


73,
Bob
K2TK

I have been using US Postal Service for all my shipping.
They are cheaper right now, and I sure an increase will be 
in the works, but they good service as well.  Also, they

do not up charge for shipping like other agents for UPS.
Right now the USPS is a great bargain for shipping.

Lee
K0WA






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Re: [Elecraft] Straight Keys, Paddles and Bugs

[T. David Yarnes]

I think there are at least two trains of thought on this. 
Straight keys are sort of "old hat" to many, and not used 
all that much.  Paddles are the choice for the masses it 
would seem.  Certainly it is easier using a paddle--at least 
I think so.  At a minimum it is less tiring.  But I think if 
you are really serious about learning CW you should know how 
to send with a straight key with some proficiency.  It's the 
simplest mechanism for sending CW, and can be fashioned from 
almost anything on a homebrew basis in a pinch.  A few nails 
or screws, a small piece of plywood, and a piece of pliable 
metal (i.e. a copper strip), and you have the makings for a 
hand key.  But don't start with that--get a decent hand key. 
They aren't that expensive.  You want one where you can 
adjust both the spacing and the tension.  If you learn to 
send well formed CW on a hand key, you will be well on your 
way to being a FB CW op.  And, you won't miss the fun on 
straight key night (New Year's Eve)!  It's not that hard 
either.  If you try it, and think it's hard, I'll bet it's 
because you are too tense.  Muscle tension restricts 
movement.  It's the same whether you are sending with a hand 
key or playing golf!


It's certainly not mandatory that you do it this way, but I 
think somewhere down the road you will be glad you did. 
It's kind of like only learning to drive a car with 
automatic transmission.  Sooner or later you will be in a 
position of needing to drive a stick shift!  If you want to 
do the paddle first, that's probably O.K., but I bet you 
will be less inclined to go back and learn with a hand key. 
You will probably quickly realize how much easier it is to 
send with a paddle, and you're apt to give up on the hand 
key.  That would be a shame.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Darwin, Keith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 6:25 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Straight Keys, Paddles and Bugs


- Original Message -

It seems that there is some disagreement as to whether
a beginner should start with a Straight Key or Paddles
and Keyer.  I favor the Straight Key, but I can see
some merit to the Paddle position.

--

I learned CW on a straight key so it would be easy for me to 
say "that's
the way it should be done".  Recently, I had the opportunity 
to observe
my kids as they began learning morse and began sending. 
Both of them
struggled more with the straight key than with the keyer. 
Both of them
preferred the keyer and felt more confident (and sent good 
code sooner)

with the keyer.  Both are coordinated kids

Because of this, I've changed my tune and I now recognize 
that a
straight key is not a beginner's tool, but is for the 
intermediate CW
operator.  Beginners should not be allowed to use a straight 
key until
they've earned the right by learning CW and becoming 
proficient at it

with the automatic keyer.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 -
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net for Sunday 20m needs a new frequency

[T. David Yarnes]

The frequency you were trying (14,235 khz) is right smack in 
the middle of slow scan TV.  That's probably what you were 
fighting.  Much lower would be better, but then you probably 
exclude many non-extras.  So, I would suggest you go to the 
very top of the band, maybe around 14,345 khz.  You could 
move down from there, subject to QRM, but watch out for 
14,336 khz, which is where the county-hunters hang out. 
Somewhere in that top 10 khz portion of the band I suspect 
you have a good chance of finding a clear spot.  Maybe 
someone else knows if there is anything else up there I'm 
not aware of.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "G3YMC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net for Sunday 20m 
needs a new frequency







Windy Dankoff KM5Q wrote:


Current schedule is SUNDAY 1800 UTC 14.235 MHz

Today was the third Sunday in a row that there was strong 
digital
activity on 14.235 and 14.240. I called for the net 
half-way in

between, but hear nobody (of course it is Easter).

Shall we start moving up from there? Any suggestions?

Windy KM5Q
K3 ordered Nov. 9



Well 14230-14235 is the international SSTV frequency. You 
will be VERY

unpopular there!

73 Dave G3YMC

--
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Re: [Elecraft] April QST: review and The Secret is Out

[T. David Yarnes]

Hmm!  Has Larson E. Rapp been reincarnated in the 
body of Steven G. Katz?


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Lyle Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 5:22 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] April QST: review and The Secret is Out


With trepidation I read the article in the latest QST - 
the same issue in which the K3 review is published - 
"Audio Frequency Enhancement."  As I feared, the secret is 
out.  Just look at the top cover of your K3 and read the 
article and you'll understand. (Not an ARRL member? 
Sorry, it is copyrighted material.)


Fortunately, the author didn't explain how the Higgins 
Model can be applied to DSP, so we can still claim that 
competitive edge.


73,

Lyle KK7P


PS - Now you know why you shouldn't operate the K3 while 
it is standing on its side. Those little rubber feet are 
for protection when traveling, or to correctly place the 
matching K3 right channel external speaker (if and when it 
becomes available). Or the panadaptor (not yet available) 
for those who are not left-eyed.


Back to my Kool-Aid...



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Re: [Elecraft] New Contest Transceiver

[T. David Yarnes]

I believe they were using Pro III's.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Contest Transceiver




I wonder if that is the rig that the Clipperton group is 
using right now?


I can just see the ads come Dayton time

73,
Henry - K4TMC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 For Sale or Trade

[T. David Yarnes]

That could be a very good thing Greg.  I agree with the
comments about the reverse button.  When I was chasing the
Ducie Island and Clipperton Island folks, I found it very
easy to hit the wrong button when trying to check the
reverse frequency.  It was mostly operator error, but things
get so frantic trying to work DX using split, it is hard not
to make a mistake now and then.  Of course, the 2nd RX will
help a bunch when it becomes available.

While we are on the subject of ergonomics and ease of
operator use, I might toss out another feature I wish we
could have--don't know if it's possible, but it would be
nice.  On my FT-1000MP Mark V, I have a wired remote pad
which allows me to do certain things.  For example, I can
trigger the memory buttons.  I find that to be a very handy
thing when I am having to repeatedly send from the memory.
On RTTY or CW I could send my call or whatever by just
pushing a button on a pad instead of reaching up so often to
hit the button on the TXCVR itself.  It can actually get a
little tiring doing that.  A pad like this might also be
able to trigger the reverse button.  Using the buttons on
the rig itself is fine usually, but when frequent repeated
uses are called for , an accessory pad like this might work
better.  I realize this may not be possible with the K3, and
if it is it would be an accessory option, but it would be
handy.

Dave W7AQK
- Original Message - 
From: "Greg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 9:51 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/10 For Sale or Trade



I'll bring this with Wayne.  If he approves I'll put it on
the update list.
The request will be for a menu option to swap the SUB and
REV functions.
But remember there won't be an icon to indicate the
status.  So once you set
it - it's up to the user to remember.

Greg


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Doug
Faunt N6TQS
+1-510-655-8604
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 9:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 For Sale or Trade


What a great idea!!! :-)

Our messages crossed.

73, doug

  Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:33:12 +
  From: Ian White GM3SEK <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

  Paul Christensen wrote:
  >>  I also find it is much easier to hold the REV button
and tune the
  >>VFO with one hand when working split on the Omni-VI
than the K3.
  >
  >That's one K3 limitation that I have not experienced
with most other
  >transceivers.   Of all the panel buttons, the placement
of the REV
  >button is probably the most critical.   Other controls
maybe touched up
  >periodically but when you're working split with a
paddle in one hand,
  >split mode requires a very ergonomic one-hand
operation.  I would have
  >preferred the K3's REV button placed either in place of
the red Freq.
  >Entry button so that the right index finger can be used
while using the
  >thumb and other fingers to find the Dx stations
listening frequency --
  >or in the alternative, placement of the REV button on
the lower left of
  >the main VFO so that the right thumb is used.  I am
right-handed so I
  >am naturally biased.
  >
  >The Ducie guys with their K3s never ran into this
dilemma as the DX
  >station. It manifests only for the mere mortals trying
to work the DX
  >station.  Of course, when the sub-receiver is offered,
this all becomes
  >moot point but not everyone will want the optional
sub-rx.
  >

  A useful feature for K3s that don't have the
sub-receiver would be to
  duplicate the REV function on the SUB button.
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Re: [Elecraft] Auto ATU for K3 + Amplifier

[T. David Yarnes]

The "ATU Tune" button is for the internal tuner, which you 
apparently don't have.  But if you push the "Xmit" button" 
to the left (hold it for a second or so), you should get 
what you need I think.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "AD6XY - Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Auto ATU for K3 + Amplifier





Thanks for the responses so far. I am currently using a 
Z11 auto tuner at

10W.

Can anyone help me with a configuration setting? What I 
would like to happen
is for something useful to happen when I press the ATU 
Tune button on the
K3. What it should do is provide a low power signal and 
toggle a tune line.
So far all I can get it to do it tell me the KAT3 is not 
installed, which I

know already.

Having lived with my K3 for almost 24 hours, I find one of 
the major design
flaws in the K3 is the lack of antenna outputs for those 
of us who don't
need an ATU built in. for HF only it is understandable, 
but it is crazy
considering the rig does 6m.  The ANT button appears 
redundant, I am sure we
could have a PCB with two or 3 RF connectors and a relay 
or two. I am not
sure I really like the way the SO239 is connected - but I 
suppose it is only
HF... Operating without the right side panel (don't ask) 
the wire loop
certainly picks up lots of local noise from my PC and 
monitor.


Mike
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mojo

[T. David Yarnes]

Jerry and All,

The K3 does indeed rock!  I had much the same results as you 
working the Clipperton group.  I ended up (assuming they are 
now packing up to leave) with 17 band slots.  I missed 160 
ssb, 10 CW (much to my dismay), and 40 SSB.  40 SSB was a 
real brick wall for some reason, but it may be due to the 
tech problem I had which I described in an earlier post.  I 
got all 20 of the band slots with the VP6DX group (they 
didn't do anything on 6 meters).  All of this was done just 
with the K3 barefoot (100 watts) and an R8 vertical.  The 
ability to work both groups on RTTY "sans" computer was the 
really neat trick.


I also agree the Ducie Island group was easier to work, but 
I think there are several good reasons for that (including 
the fact they were using K3's!).  I'm not trying to be 
overly critical of the Clipperton group, but I think just 
about all the ops on Ducie were outstanding.  They were 
really knocking off the QSO's at a rapid rate with great 
efficiency.   Often the Clipperton ops seemed to be 
struggling a bit to nail down a contact--more so at least 
than the Clipperton ops.  I also suspect the antennas on 
Ducie were better.  I heard them better, and they seemed to 
hear me better.  I was using the same antenna (the R8) on 
both.  But in fairness to the Clipperton folks, they 
apparently had their hands full due to weather.  Antennas 
blew over and were damaged by lightning storms which 
frequent and drove them off the air (plus making copy 
difficult), etc.  I didn't hear much complaining about the 
weather on Ducie.  I also think the fact that they were 
closer to both of us may have been to our detriment on 10 
and 12 meters.  I heard them working midwest and east coast 
stations when I couldn't even hear them in Arizona.


The one big thing I have concluded from chasing both of 
these groups is that I probably need to add the 2nd 
receiver.  I thought I might be able to "live" without it, 
but that's the one feature where my Orion II beats my K3 
right now.  Trying to chase the split frequency for DX is so 
much easier with a second receiver, instead of constantly 
pushing the reverse button.  The VP6 ops especially were 
running some very big splits, and they were roaming over a 
fairly wide range of listening frequencies.  You really need 
to zero in within reason to where they are actually 
listening.  So I guess I'll be stuffing another $1k or so 
into the K3 some day soon.


Anyway, it's been fun!  The K3 made it even more so.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Jerry T. Dowell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 9:22 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Mojo


I am happy to report that the K3 is not lacking in the 
traditional mojo. My
first QSO with the K3 was TX5C, followed by working them 
all bands 160M
through 15M CW and SSB, excepting 160M SSB and 40M SSB. 
This was barefoot
with one antenna, a dipole at 15 ft. For 160, I had to 
load just the center
conductor of the coax, disconnecting the shield. The mojo 
approaches that of
the K2/100, with which I worked VP6DX CW and SSB 160M-15M 
excepting 160 SSB.
It took much less time with the K2, but that may have been 
due to different

operating procedures between the two DXpeditions.

My first RTTY QSO with the K3, by the way, was with VK9NS 
on 17M. For that I
used MTTY with the AFSK A mode. It is interesting to note 
that the K3 itself
seemed to do a better job decoding than MTTY. Perhaps the 
difference would

disappear with optimum setup.

It's a keeper!

Jerry   AI6L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3--Strange Issue On 40 SSB

[T. David Yarnes]

Aha!  Thanks Greg.  I was feeling like perhaps I was 
screwing up something in my setup.  Glad to hear that it's 
probably just one of those quirky problems that crops up, 
but will be addressed.  You made my day!


Dave

- Original Message - 
From: "Greg - AB7R" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ; "'T . David Yarnes'" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3--Strange Issue On 40 SSB


Dave,

This is a bug that was just recently found.  We're in the 
process of testing

updated firmware to fix this.


-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
K3#0009 and 0319

On Fri Mar 14  6:51 , "T. David Yarnes"  sent:


Hi All,

I suspect when some read this they will think I am daft.
But I will mention it anyway.  Here's the problem.  And it
only seems to happen on 40 meter SSB.  Sometimes, but not
always, when I try to transmit on the SSB portion of 40, I
will not see any consistent power output on my meter.  It 
is

erratic, and for the most part seems to be nil, but with
short high peaks.  On other bands, when I modulate I see a
nice consistent meter reading that matches my voice
modulating the radio.  Just what you would expect.  On 40,
my antenna is actually set for the lower part of the band,
but my ATU seems to have no problem showing me a 1:1 match
in the SSB part of the band.  Now for the strange part,
which I just discovered.  If I switch to CW, but at that
higher band location, and key the transmitter briefly 
(which

then shows normal power output), I can then return to SSB
mode and my modulation per the meter looks normal!  I've
changed no other settings in the meantime.  I have not
retuned either.  It's as if giving a short CW burst first
unlocks the transmitter for SSB.

Anybody have any idea what is happening?

Dave W7AQK


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[Elecraft] K3--Strange Issue On 40 SSB

[T. David Yarnes]

Hi All,

I suspect when some read this they will think I am daft.
But I will mention it anyway.  Here's the problem.  And it
only seems to happen on 40 meter SSB.  Sometimes, but not
always, when I try to transmit on the SSB portion of 40, I
will not see any consistent power output on my meter.  It is
erratic, and for the most part seems to be nil, but with
short high peaks.  On other bands, when I modulate I see a
nice consistent meter reading that matches my voice
modulating the radio.  Just what you would expect.  On 40,
my antenna is actually set for the lower part of the band,
but my ATU seems to have no problem showing me a 1:1 match
in the SSB part of the band.  Now for the strange part,
which I just discovered.  If I switch to CW, but at that
higher band location, and key the transmitter briefly (which
then shows normal power output), I can then return to SSB
mode and my modulation per the meter looks normal!  I've
changed no other settings in the meantime.  I have not
retuned either.  It's as if giving a short CW burst first
unlocks the transmitter for SSB.

Anybody have any idea what is happening?

Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Information Please - Curious

[T. David Yarnes]

And I think if the boys at VP6DX had understood this, they 
wouldn't have had any complaint about the AGC on the K3.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Lyle Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 5:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] AGC Information Please - Curious


You can tap DISP when any of these are displayed and a 
short help message will scroll across the VFO B display.



AGC HLD (Hold?)


In slow AGC, this is the time that the AGC will hold its 
most recent peak value before starting to decay.



AGC PLS (Pulse?)


This defines the width of a signal that is considered a 
pulse (like ignition noise) instead of data (like a CW 
dit).  If a pulse is detected, the AGC rapidly decays back 
to its previous value after the pulse ends.  Otherwise, 
the AGC assumes it was a signal and responds accordingly.



AGC SLP (Slope?)


This allows you to change the "flatness" of the AGC.  Some 
people like ift flat (very strong signals and moderately 
weak signals all have the same loudness).  Others prefer 
that stronger signals drive the audio level alittle harder 
than weaker signals.



AGC THR (Threshold?}


Determines the level below which signals do not drive the 
AGC.



AGC-F (Fast)


Sets the decay rate of the AGC in Fast mode.


AGC-S (Slow)


Sets the decay rate of the AGC (after the Hold time) in 
Slow mode.



Please use non engineering terms


The best way to understand what these do is to play with 
them, adjusting one parameter and operating the radio 
until you are comfortable with what that parameter does, 
then changing another, etc., until you know what they all 
do.  Then adjust them to optimize the K3 for your personal 
preferences.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Split Mode Change

[T. David Yarnes]

Something's wrong!  The mode copies over when I do that.

Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:14 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Split Mode Change


I notice that when I hit A>B to copy VFO A to  VFO B, the 
mode does not copy
over.  Pain in the neck to have to go into  the menus to 
change the mode when
it is obvious cross-mode operation is the  exception not 
the rule.


Is this "on the list?"

k4ia
"Buck" K3  #101
Fredericksburg, VA




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[Elecraft] K3 Manual Updates

[T. David Yarnes]

I haven't followed all of this, so maybe it's already been
said.  But having the document as a PDF file rules out (I
think) being able to neatly "edit" your copy.  If it were in
something like Word, even as an alternative, it would be
easier for each person to update his or her file copy.

Alternatively, manual pages could be updated in much the
same fashion as various professional manuals are updated.
If a page need to be changed, then that page would be
changed accordingly.  Then just the changed page would be
sent out as a page replacement in the manual.  The manual
and the updates could be in PDF of course.  If the change
caused the page to go longer than it did originally, you
would carry over that page to a second page, and give the
added page a page number the same as the page being changed,
but adding a letter or number to differentiate it from the
original and succeeding page.  For example, if page 35 had
to be added to, to the point that more than one page were
necessary to fit in the changes, the overrun would go on
page 35A, or 35-1, or whatever similar system you want to
adopt for revisions.

I like to keep manuals in binders (3 ring type usually)
anyway.  That way I can pull pages out for reference or
copying with ease.  It also makes it a snap to update.

Now if you really want to follow through and do this first
rate, you would have a dated index for all updates.  That
way, someone who is maybe a bit lax about updating can
always check to make sure they have inserted all the
updates.  If not, they can do so and catch up.

I don't mind online manuals, but it would be nice to have
them issued in an organized format like this.  Using the
method described above makes this easily possible.  But if
you just issue errata info, then your manual can get pretty
messy with notes in the margin, etc.

There are lots of ways to do it, but this is one I know
works, and it isn't too difficult to manage.

Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "David Cutter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Jerry Keller (K3BZ)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;

Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Manual updates



Jerry

I agree.  I'm getting decidedly twitchy (that's a
technical word) about staying up to date.  I know it's not
beyond me, but I might just miss something crucial and
then throw my teddy out of the pram when I do it wrong.

If I print off the changes they can then be cut out and
stuck on top of the offending passage in the printed
manual, (you know: cut and paste) or a whole page replaced
if required.   You have to keep the revision numbers up to
date.

David
G3UNA




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Re: [Elecraft] Another source for "Anderson PowerPole" type connectors

[T. David Yarnes]

And I wonder if one, or the other, or both, would mate with 
an Anderson Power Pole.  I ask because it would be good to 
know that any already used wouldn't have to be replaced if 
you decided to try the different ones.


Dave W7AQK



- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Fairbank" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Another source for "Anderson 
PowerPole" type connectors




--- David Cutter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Eric

What name or series do they go under, do you have a
link?


 Well, now I see that Mouser sells two different
kinds of these AMP/Tyco connectors. The ones that I am
refering to are the AMP Power Lock Series I connectors
on page 1285 of the latest Mouser catalog. I think
this thread is refering to the other ones on page 1284
that are more similar to the Anderson ones. I have not
used those and cannot verify that they are inferior to
the Anderson's.

Eric N3EF


 

Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


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Re: [Elecraft] Shack PC?

[T. David Yarnes]

Simon and All,

Reminds me of the night my dad made his favorite declaration 
in response to a conversations about what a good eater he 
was and how he seemed to like everything.  He said, "There's 
only One  thing I don't like!  Coconut! 
.and raisins!  Now, he had partaken of a 
couple of vodka tonics at the time, but not sure you want to 
claim the same excuse!


Dave W7AQK




- Original Message - 
From: "Simon Brown (HB9DRV)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 1:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Shack PC?



Would anyone believe I have a 1st class degree in Maths ?

Simon Brown, HB9DRV

--
From: "Simon Brown (HB9DRV)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Two suggestions:

1) ...
2) ...
3) ...

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Re: [Elecraft] Price increases - I feel loved....

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "James Duffey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Cc: "James Duffey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:36 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Price increases - I feel loved


We must have had different economics courses. As I 
understand it, the  weaker dollar makes American goods 
more attractive to overseas buyers,  not less attractive. 
Elecraft and other companies that price their  rigs in 
dollars receive the same income in dollars when they sell 
a  rig overseas as when they sell it here. But as the rig 
is effectively  cheaper overseas, they sell more and their 
income in dollars goes up.



Hi All,

Duffey has it exactly right.  Elecraft isn't losing 
anything, and the foreign buyers are gaining!  As one recent 
post by one of our brit friends said, the K3 is a bargain at 
current conversion rates.  Elecraft could be losing a bit if 
much of their components were foreign made (meaning they 
might have to keep paying more in dollars to keep up with 
the conversion rate overseas), but I don't think that is the 
case.  Hypothetically Elecraft is losing, but only because 
they didn't set their price to foreign purchasers in foreign 
currency.  If they had done that, they would be enjoying the 
gain in conversion that has occurred.  They would be 
enjoying the fruits of "arbitrage'".  But they didn't do 
that.  So, the only thing they are really losing is buying 
power with respect to anything they might do with their 
money regarding overseas goods.  But we are all losing that 
here.  It's becoming more and more expensive for Americans 
to buy overseas products or travel overseas.  But we should 
be enjoying benefits of our products becoming more 
attractive to overseas buyers.  I'm confident that has had 
some positive effect on Elecraft's sales.


By the way, I think just about every college in the U.S. was 
using Paul Samuelson's text for economics--or at least it 
sure seemed like it.  He was a professor at Indiana 
University, I think, when I was in college.  And we used his 
text too.  I wouldn't be surprised if it is still in use in 
some form, but he's probably "SK" by now.  I just wish I'd 
had him for my professor instead of that nerd who kept 
staring at the ceiling every day for the whole hour while 
spewing out all those economic principals!


Dave W7AQK





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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Portable Antennae

[T. David Yarnes]

Hi All,

I would question the assertion that a resonant dipole is the 
absolute best choice.  First of all, I think the original 
query included the condition that the antenna needed to fit 
within "the footprint of the campsite".  Now, we don't know 
how big that footprint is, but I can certainly envision that 
such a footprint wouldn't be that big, particularly in a 
crowded campground.  Putting up a resonant dipole there 
could easily be a problem.


I would concede that a resonant dipole alleviates lots of 
"issues".  But conditions at hand don't always make it the 
best choice.  A dipole that can only be elevated a short 
distance is going to be pretty "NVIS" as a general rule. 
Perhaps that's sufficient, but generally it isn't.  If you 
can get it up in the air a fair amount, all the better. 
Furthermore, if you use balanced feeders and a tuner, you 
have the makings for a nice little multiband system.  But 
again, you may not be radiating in all directions very 
effectively, so maybe that's a problem too.  But clearly a 
dipole that you can elevate somewhat is a good choice.


I find vertical systems to be quite beneficial in many 
situations.  True, there may not be super efficient, but 
sometimes that is really your only option.  Verticals don't 
have to be elevated either, although if you can elevate one 
you might be better off.  And it doesn't have to be elevated 
nearly as much as a dipole--just enough to start chipping 
away at the ground loss issue.  I think the "rule of thumb" 
is to elevate it at least 1/10 wavelength to start getting 
some real benefit.


Vertical antennas tend to have lower take-off 
angles--particularly compared to a dipole at a relatively 
low height.  So, you might work stations closer to you 
better with the dipole, but stations farther away may hear 
you better on the vertical.  For certain you need some 
radials, but they don't necessarily have to be all that 
long.  As we have been told by those more knowledgeable, 
more shorter radials are often better than just a few longer 
ones.


Vertical systems like the MP-1 and PAC-12 are darn good 
little systems.  Admittedly, they could be better, but you 
can also make them better.  You can add more length below 
and above the coil for starters.  Also, you can spread more 
radials than are supplied.  But even as supplied, these 
systems do work, and work fairly well.  I've used both 
systems enough times to attest to that.  Furthermore, I can 
use these systems in lots of situations where a dipole just 
isn't possible.  It's not that I prefer using 
verticals--actually when I can I put up a multiband dipole 
system--but it all depends on circumstances as to which type 
of antenna works better.


I would conclude my comments by posing a hypothetical 
situation to you.  I'm not sure I know the answer, but I 
think I do.  Let's assume you want to work some "DX" on 40 
meters from your campsite.  You are in a situation where you 
could put up a dipole at 30 feet, maybe even 35 feet. 
Alternatively, you could use a limb, or something like that, 
to elevate an MP-1 (enhanced maybe with an extra rod or two 
under the coil, and maybe one or two more on top as well) 
about 20 feet with 4 tuned radials sloping downward.  Which 
antenna has the smaller "footprint" with regard to your 
campsite?  Which one is apt to perform better at working DX? 
Is one substantially harder than the other to put up?


Anybody want to play the game?  Sorry, no prizes for the 
"correct" answers since I can't say for certain what they 
are!


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 4:49 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Portable Antennae



Ken wrote:

...I would like to construct a good portable antennae to 
use while camping


Mike responded:

...I have played around with multi-band HF antennas for 
camping and backpacking
for more than 30 years.  I've tried resonant dipoles with 
and without traps,
untuned dipoles fed with balanced line, simple and complex 
verticals, fed-fed

wires, etc.

I have never found anything that works as well as the 
least-expensive of the
above...the resonant dipole.  I have never found anything 
that works as poorly

as verticals."
..

Ken, I would agree with Mike! I built this very antenna in a 
short time after Mike sent me a simple diagram/link. I built 
the antenna probably four or five years ago and still use 
it. I used it immediately after Hurricane Katrina with my K1 
and solar panel set up for nearly two weeks after the storm.
I just use a light weight painters pole and bugie cord it to 
a suitable, but stationary anchor. As Mike said, it's easily 
adjustable and it works great given it's simpicity.


Thanks Mike for sending those plans several years ago! And 
Ken, I'd try it. You'll be surprised!


73,
John-KD5EJA
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Re: [Elecraft] Mobile/portable antennas

[T. David Yarnes]

Keith and All,

Like you, I had pretty good success with my Outbacker.  I 
used it for years with a mag-mount on top of my vehicles, 
and it worked well.  It took a lot of abuse too.  Now, it's 
not equal to many of the bigger screwdriver types, or the 
Bug Catcher, etc., but given it's somewhat compromise design 
I thought it was a good antenna.  I never tried to use it as 
a portable antenna though, and I don't think that would be 
as good as something like the PAC-12 or MP-1 systems.  Those 
systems are more versatile, in that you can add sections, 
etc.  The MP-1 makes a good mobile antenna in a pinch. 
Actually, it performs pretty darn good as one.


My Outbacker model was the Perth, and that is longer than 
several other Outbacker models.  I've heard that the shorter 
models seem to not work as well.  Possibly that is what the 
other person was using.  I don't think Outbackers have 
faired particularly well in shoot-outs, etc., but it worked 
as good as my Hustlers did, and several other types.  But 
I've since changed to a Tarheel, and I like that better.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Keith Bainbridge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:22 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Mobile/portable antennas


Just a quick word to say  totally disagree with KK5F's 
comments about the Outbacker antennas.
I and many of my club mates use them on a daily basis and 
they certainly do work.
I am mobile at work and consistantly get excellent reports 
using my Outbacker on 40 and 20 mtrs over a 500-800 mile 
path from my Mitsi outlander with 100w and a TS 50.
I also have had many DX contacts on 20 and 15 mtrs while 
driving around Western Australia.
Just cos you have had no luck dont paint the antenna 
black. Many many people use them daily and get excellent 
results, including Police, Army, and Emergency Services.
It even may have saved a life once as it has the RFDS ( 
Royal flying doctor service) tap and I was able to call 
for help with a heart attack patient.

I also have a Tarheel 200HP and that works well too.
I'm surprised you made such a categoric statement about 
how bad the Outbacker was.
I will send your comments to Terry at Outbacker ( only 10 
miles from here ) for his consideration.

Maybe he will contact you.
probably not.
73
Keith

--
Keith VK6XH / VK6DXR
Secretary Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC
Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study

[T. David Yarnes]

Doug and All,

What do you get when you use the RIT control method?  Set 
the menu item "VFO OFS" to "On", and you can make some of 
those excursions much faster than your time, but not the 
really extended ones.  But you can't use that control if you 
are also using the RIT/XIT.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 1:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study



Here is what I just timed (10 measures each category)

Using the Keypad entry method previously described (VFO 
A/B - touch
the ENTER FREQ button, touch the keys for the discrete 
QRG - touch the
"enter" button - and touch VFO A/B button again to get 
back on the
right RX frequency).  Any amount of frequency excursion (1 
kc or

200kc) took me, on average 4.9 seconds.

Using the Coarse/Fine button and "dialing in" using VFO B 
knob - for
frequency excursions greater than 25kc, on average = 10.9 
seconds.
Methodology: Hit the coarse/fine button, use VFO B dial to 
dial in
"close" to the QRG, hit the coarse/fine fine button and 
finish tuning

in to the exact QRG.

Just using VFO B for frequency excursions less than 
10kc...and dialing
in to the exactly QRG (obviously somewhat proportional to 
the total
amount of excursion), on average = 6.3 seconds.  [no use 
of

coarse/fine button]

So for maximum speed, use the keypad method.

de Doug KR2Q
PS...with appreciation to my younger daughter (12th grade) 
who was
kind enough to use her stopwatch to time me and call out 
frequencies

to go to.
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Re: [Elecraft] Calling the K3 USERS GROUP on SSB

[T. David Yarnes]

Folks, I think you are being a bit unfair to Windy.  The guy 
wants to establish a K3 user's group.  What's wrong with 
that?  Perhaps his announcement was a bit "cavalier", but I 
took it to be an attempt at humor (i.e. saying brasspounders 
should get a life, etc.).  I have no idea who Windy is, or 
whether he can successfully organize a net that 
substantively holds my interest.  I'm not even sure I'll 
participate.  But I'm not going to assume on the front end 
that his motives are ulterior or inappropriate.  At least 
he's trying to show a little initiative!


Now, I am assuming Windy intended this to be a net where 
there was actually some substantitive discussion about the 
K3--it's pluses and minuses, operating issues, etc.  Maybe 
it would be a chance for others to put their K3 on the air 
and get on-the-air advice about your setup.  If that's the 
case, I can understand why he preferred not to confuse 
things with other Elecraft rigs.  They are different, and 
have many different issues.  But if it's just going to be a 
"check in and say howdy" type net, with no dedication to 
substantive discussion of the rig itself, then I agree that 
there isn't much justification to exclusions.


But I also got the impression that you didn't have to have a 
K3 to check in, he just wanted the topic to be about the K3. 
I would further assume it would be an excellent opportunity 
for non-K3 owners to ask questions about the K3, or even 
about comparisions with other rigs--there just needs to be 
some nexus to K3's.


There are all sorts of reflectors, etc. that deal with 
specific rigs.  There are also some groups that deal with 
brand names, not just specific models.  I think those all 
have their individual purposes.  If someone just wants to 
have a generic Elecraft net, go ahead and establish one! 
Kevin has a fine CW net like this, although there is not 
much discussion about the various rigs that goes on during 
that net.  So if you want to do this on SSB, I think that's 
fine.


I just don't understand why folks go off half-cocked because 
someone wants to do something with a specific purpose. 
Windy apparently wants to talk about K3's.  There is a lot 
to talk about, you will have to admit that.  If you have a 
K3, want a K3, or are just interested in K3's, you would 
presumably be welcome to participate.  I don't see a thing 
"elitist" about it, and I think he has clarified that in 
subsequent follow-up posts.  I suppose if you think making 
the topic that narrow would not fill up the time allowed, it 
would be appropriate to point that out as your opinion.  But 
since he is the one setting it up, I think it's his 
privilege to establish the agenda.  I can certainly see how 
making the "agenda" too broad could be a distraction.  He's 
simply inviting anyone else with a similar interest to 
participate.  If your interest is broader than that, it 
probably is appropriate to find, or establish, a different 
venue.  But for crying out loud, don't shoot the guy just 
because it doesn't meet your goals.  You can certainly offer 
your suggestions, but don't throw spears at him!  That's 
just plain negative thinking.  Personally, I choose to 
assume his intentions are innocent and honorable.  If his 
idea is a "bust", he will find out soon enough.  People 
won't show up for the party.


Dave W7AQK



- Original Message - 
From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Windy Dankoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Crafters" 
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 2:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Calling the K3 USERS GROUP on SSB


I have a K3, but unlikely I'll be able to reach you guys 
yet.


But I totally disagree with this K3 only stance, so I 
won't even bother.


This should be a net for all Elecrafters - ok, that's 
going to be just K2 &

K3 until the K1 gets SSB or the K4 comes out.



On 29/02/2008 05:12, "Windy Dankoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:


Gus,

I wrote on my announcement:  "If you have non-K3 Elecraft 
topics,
check in. If your discussion goes off-topic, move to a 
nearby

frequency."

So YES, K2'ers please check in. If our K3 net is active, 
simply move
off to a nearby frequency. Once you have established your 
frequency,

announce your own net!!

But, do stop in and visit some time  :-)

Windy
KM5Q


--
Accuracy Transcends Speed


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Re: [Elecraft] SMD video? (was: Mystery Mods)

[T. David Yarnes]

When I was about to start one of the more involved SMD kits 
(I had built some easier ones with bigger parts), I worried 
about the very, very small spacing on a couple of the IC's. 
Then I had a chance to discuss this with a couple or "pros" 
who both told me not to worry.  Just slop the solder on 
across all the contacts, and then wick it off with some good 
braid.  The operative word in that last sentence is "good". 
You don't want cheap braid.  Works like a charm!  No 
bridges!  The device remains neatly soldered to the pads at 
the contact points, but the anti-solder material on the 
board allows all the excess to be lifted right off.  I don't 
know that this is the textbook approach, but these guys do 
this stuff for a living, so I felt comfortable taking their 
advice.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Bill W4ZV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMD video? (was: Mystery Mods)






Barry N1EU wrote:



Should have checked youtube before posting.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY  seems quite good 
and there are

lots more.



The K3 mods are very simple...replacing single components 
with plenty of
room around them...no IC removal, fine-pitch ICs, etc.  I 
was somewhat
surprised how much solder they were loading on the tip in 
that video

sometimes.  Less is better than more for SMD.

One change I would make to that video.  Forget the loupe 
and get a headset
visor...you will definitely need both hands free (one for 
the soldering iron
and one for tweezers or whatever you use to hold the 
component in place).
$10 visors from eBay work just fine (doesn't need to be an 
Optivisor but
looks similar).  The flux, Quik Chip, etc are nice but not 
really necessary
for what you will need to do.  Tweezers, a magnifying 
visor, good light,

solder wick and a fine tip soldering iron are musts.

73,  Bill  W4ZV
--
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-hardware---The-Mystery-Mods--tp15725030p15727944.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX scraping the bottom

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "Brett Howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'G3YMC'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 


Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] VP6DX scraping the bottom


That's just bogus!  Its NOT the speed that you need to get 
competent at.
It's the speed that many people may be competent at but 
not all of us.  If
you guys are going to continue to tell people that they 
need to get
competent at 25-35 then you can simply kiss CW goodbye. 
If people
(especially DX an DXpedition type stations) are unwilling 
to slow down and
give new CW ops some of the fun contacts then why would we 
be willing to
want to continue to learn CW?  So we can become one of the 
rest of the

elitist snobs who won't slow down for someone?

I remember when I was at 5WPM and it was almost impossible 
to get someone to
talk to me!  Heck I knew it was slow even I was thinking 
it was painful when
it was as fast as I could go.  Now I'm up to 11 to 13WPM 
and its easier to
find people to talk to but if someone is calling CQ at 
5WPM that's the guy
I'm all over trying to talk to at HIS speed as that's a 
new guy to be
brought into the fold.  If we keep running people off from 
CW and telling
people to get proficient at 25-30 WPM that's the attitudes 
that gets CW

dropped from the test requirements!




Brett and All,

Well I wouldn't call it bogus, but it may not be as bad as 
you think.  I think what G3YMC was trying to tell you is 
that, at least for the most part, in contests or 
DXpeditions, the ops are going to go at about that speed as 
a general rule.  Some may slow down some, but most won't. 
But it's not all that bad really, particularly if you are in 
the 11 to 13 wpm range.  And it doesn't necessarily mean you 
have to send that fast, but you may have to copy that fast. 
However, all you really need to be able to recognize at that 
speed is your call, his call, and your report.  Now, 
recognizing "599" or "5NN" at 25 wpm, even though your 
regular level is only around 11 to 13 wpm, isn't really that 
hard.  Also, you might have to listen several times to 
finally figure out the other station's callsign before you 
call him, but you should be able to put it all together 
eventually.  On rare occasion it might be too difficult, but 
generally I think you can do it.  During the DX contest a 
couple of weeks ago I worked EE5E, in Spain, and that took 
me a couple of times I must admit.  It might have thrown you 
completely.  Most of the time though, it's much easier than 
a whole pocket full of dits like that.  As for your 
callsign, you should be able to copy it much faster than 
your normal level of competency.  If you aren't comfortable 
with that statement, and if you have a keyer with a memory, 
put your call into memory and listen to it at a higher speed 
until it sounds very familiar to you.  After all, you don't 
even have to be able to write that down--just recognize it.


You have to appreciate that contests and DXpeditions are all 
about making the most contacts possible.  It's all about 
"score" or "total".  They want to make 3, or even more, 
contacts per minute if possible.  That's called the "run 
rate" I think, and it is a big topic of conversation among 
rabid contesters.  If they have to slow down a whole bunch, 
and very often, they are losing points.  Not everyone plays 
the game that way, but a lot of them do.  Many of them will 
slow down for you.  And something else--if your signal isn't 
too great, some may just bail out on you for that as well. 
You just have to accept the fact that in those situations 
you might not be able to complete the QSO, and go on to the 
next one.  It's not like a regular QSO where courtesy would 
call for the other station to slow down for you.  Instead 
it's the "Indy 500", and you just have to get your engine 
cranked up if you want to win, but that doesn't mean you 
can't run slower and still be a part of the race.  By the 
way, I was very impressed with how often the VP6DX guys did 
slow down or stick with a hard-to-copy signal until the 
contact was confirmed both ways.


So try to understand the other side's objectives, and keep 
working on your skills.  Nobody is trying to run you off 
from CW, but if you really want to participate in a contest, 
or work a DXpedition, you have to give them a little slack 
about allowing them to achieve their goals.  Your goal needs 
to be to improve your skills to the extent possible so you 
don't slow them down to a point where they can't achieve 
theirs.  In the meantime, you can "game" the process 
somewhat by learning to recognize your call and sig reports 
at faster than your usual speed, and taking enough time on 
the contact beforehand to figure out their call.  I'd 
probably recommend you use some sort of memory keyer as well 
so you can send out your call, and your report to them, at 
something faster than 13 wpm.  You may not like that advice, 
but I think it's realistic.  The critical thing

Re: [Elecraft] OT-VP6DX Operation

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "S Sacco" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT-VP6DX Operation



>Over 181,000 QSO's were made,

which is a new DXpedition record.  I think it is safe to
assume that a K3 was involved in every one of those QSO's,
and many times there was a K3 at both ends.


Well, there are not even 500 K3's out in the wild.  Of 
those, not
every one is owned by someone who cared to work VP6DX. 
"Many times"

might be a "tad" of an overstatement, no?   ;-)



Ah!  But you perhaps forget that all the radios used by the 
DXpedition were K3's!  So, at least 1/2 of every contact 
involved a K3!  As for saying "many times", I thought that I 
was being appropriately conservative, and clearly with the 
knowledge as to how many K3's are out there.  But perhaps 
you would prefer it if I had said "a few" or "several". 
Both of those terms would seem to indicate only a "handful", 
and I think there were a lot more than that.  I wasn't 
trying to exxagerate it, however, and I certainly wasn't 
suggesting it was a "significant" percentage of the 181,000 
QSO's.  I really have no definite idea how many folks with 
K3's actually did work the VP6, but there have been enough 
comments right here on the reflector about doing so that I 
think it safe to assume that "many" isn't an unreasonable 
term.  I also know of some K3 owners who did work the VP6, 
but haven't even said "boo" here on the reflector, or at 
least about having worked the VP6.  So, I'll stick with 
saying "many", but obviously it has to be taken in context 
with the number of K3's actually out there.


Dave W7AQK



Dave W7AQK



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: "secret" hardware changes?

[T. David Yarnes]

Personally, I find this thread a bit silly.  Anyone who 
thinks ANY radio won't be subject to improvement along the 
way is smoking something!  The alternative is to wait until 
a model is near the end of it's life cycle, in which case 
there will be a "new and improved" model coming out shortly! 
At least with Elecraft you have a 90% chance of being able 
to upgrade yourself if it's really that critical.  All you 
have to do is look at the K2 to confirm that fact.  And I 
don't think Elecraft is hiding anything about changes 
either.  A lot of this stuff has been mentioned in postings 
here on the reflector, but that means you have to pay 
attention.  Besides, I think some of these at least may not 
have been highlighted on the Elecraft website because they 
are still tinkering with them.  I don't blame Elecraft at 
all for not waiving a red flag until they have an 
appropriate solution figured out.  I challenge anyone to 
show me a manufacturer who has been more open than Elecraft 
about issues/enhancements and how to solve them.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Thom LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ; "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: "secret" hardware changes?



On Wed, 27 Feb 2008, Vic K2VCO wrote:



There's an IMD mod to the Hardware AGC circuit. It is not 
complicated and can be done with leaded components (or 
SMT) in a few minutes. I do not know if it has been added 
to production radios yet or if the ARRL's unit has it.


For those of us that can not build, hardware updates and 
not a simple matter...and sending it back to Aptos is a 
financial burden.


And so, one of the costs of being an eary adopter who 
doesn't build is sending things back to Aptos.


The real question for me is how many other hardware 
changes that can be done in a few minutes will come up 
during the warranty period.


73 k3hrn
Blessed be those with a target on the back of their 
shirts, for they shall be

called pioneers.
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[Elecraft] OT-VP6DX Operation

[T. David Yarnes]

Hi All,

I just took a look at the QSO statistics for the VP6DX 
operation.  It is available on their website.  This may not 
be the final tally, but it is close.  According to their 
website, by now the east campsite has been dismantled. 
There still may be operations this evening until about 1430Z 
Thursday, after which the remaining equipment will be packed 
up.  So, you still "may" have a chance to get them on 160, 
80, 40, or 30 meters.  Apparently the 80 meter and 30 meter 
operating position is a shared one, so probably you won't 
hear them on those two bands simultaneously.


The statistics are interesting, and you can draw some 
interesting assumptions/conclusions from them.  They had 
planned 22 operating slots, but apparently there were no 6 
meter contacts.  So, 20 slots are all you could get.  Well, 
that's not exactly true for 1 person!  There was 1 RTTY QSO 
on 40 meters, so that person could have worked 21 slots, but 
hasn't done so as of now.  Over 181,000 QSO's were made, 
which is a new DXpedition record.  I think it is safe to 
assume that a K3 was involved in every one of those QSO's, 
and many times there was a K3 at both ends.  Elecraft's 
advertising department should be able to make some noise 
with that!


The total QSO's by band and mode are interesting as well. 
About 95% of all QSO's were on either SSB or CW--not a big 
surprise perhaps.  But I think it is important to note that 
just about exactly half of that 95% were CW QSO's.  CW 
"ain't" dead folks!  I should note, however, that because 
there is no SSB on 30 meters the CW total got a nice boost 
from the nearly 10,000 CW QSO's made there.  But on both 80 
and 160, CW QSO's exceeded SSB QSO's.  The ratio was over 
3:1 on 160, so you top band DX chasers best keep your CW 
skills honed.  And the total CW QSO's was very close to the 
total for SSB on both 40 and 10 meters.


20 meters was the top producing band with over 33,000 QSO's 
(about 38% CW and 51% SSB).  It was a little surprising to 
me that the next highest total was on 17 meters (over 31,000 
QSO's with CW about 38% and SSB about 53%).  I've long 
thought that 17 meters was a great band (that's why I have 
my K-1 set for 17 meters instead of 15 meters), but this 
suggests it is even better than I thought.  40 meters was 
next (nearly 29,000 QSO's, and about 50/50 CW and SSB), 
followed closely by 15 meters at nearly 28,000 QSO's  (4:3 
SSB).  160 meters was the low producer (not counting 6 
meters) at about 6,000 QSO's.  10,000 RTTY QSO's were nearly 
evenly divided between 17, 20, and 30 meters.


I don't have any statistics on QRP, but I am confident that 
the lion's share of those contacts were made on CW.  But I 
think anyone who made a QRP contact on SSB can crow a bit. 
I only tried it on 17 meters, because it was pretty easy to 
do from here.  On the other bands the "KW" competition just 
seemed too great.  I was tempted to try it later on during 
their operation on other bands, but I don't think they 
appreciated duplicate QSO's, and it might slow down the 
others trying to get their first QSO.  But the "ERP" for my 
160 meter QSO's had to be almost equivalent to QRP 
considering the antenna I was using.


Anyway, I think it's kind of fascinating how the QSO's were 
divided by band and mode.  It certainly galvanizes my 
convictions about the ongoing viability (and use) of CW.  At 
least when it comes to chasing DX, you are only playing with 
half a deck if you don't "do" CW.  A little K3 "mojo" 
doesn't hurt either!


If any of this trivia intrigues you at all, you might go to 
the VP6DX website and draw your own conclusions.  There are 
several other compilations available there as well.  It's 
really quite a website.  My apologies to anyone who thinks I 
have too much time on my hands, but I guess that comes from 
my career as a "beancounter".  H!  Not much going on 
today, so maybe I'll try and graph this stuff!


Dave W7AQK









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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in different colors?

[T. David Yarnes]

Personally, I think black is a very "classy" color.  I'd 
even like to have a black automobile, notwithstanding the 
fact that I live in the Arizona desert!  I prefer K3 black 
to K2 gray, but I suppose that's just me.  Black is a 
neutral color (as are colors like tan and gray), but I think 
it contrasts better with other colors better than other 
neutral colors do.  Black is actually "the absence of 
color", so I guess that's why it works that way for me. 
Anyway, I vote to keep rolling out the products in black.


But if you want colors, take a look at that new german 
transceiver (Hilberling? or whatever).  It costs a fortune, 
but I saw it at Dayton, and you can get it in all sorts of 
colors--some were pretty wild!  Personally I thought some of 
the offered colors would only look good in a bordelo, but 
everyone to his or her taste!


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Bruce Bowman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 in different colors?


This brings to mind a quote attributed to Henry Ford. When 
asked what colors the Model T was available in he replied: 
"You can have any color you want as long as it's black."


Hey, if it's good enought for Henry, Eric & Wayne, it's 
good enough for me! :)


Bruce, NM5B



Just black works fine for me!   It compliments my jeans 
and scruffy shirt quite nicely.


If it came in different colors, I might have to buy an 
all new wardrobe to match my new "accessory", and that 
would make the purchase of a K3 quite an overall 
expenditure.  I might have to have a different K3 to 
match my current mood too, so more expenses would result. 
:-)  Now, where did I put those credit card 
applications offering cheap credit?


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] Ducie ...

[T. David Yarnes]

Chris and All,

I don't know if it's too late or not, as they may be packing 
things up at VP6DX as we speak.  But give that antenna a try 
on 160.  The K3's ATU seems to be very wide ranged.  I 
worked VP6DX on all modes from 10 through 160--that's 20 out 
of 22 possible (didn't hear a peep on 6 meters), which is as 
much as anyone had I think.  All of that was done with an R8 
Vertical, which isn't supposed to work below 40 meters.  And 
no computer was used either--just the CW input to the K3 
converted to RTTY on the 3 bands on which they operated that 
mode.  Anyway, the point is that the K3 does a lot more than 
one might think.  It won't make a bad antenna good, but it 
certainly will deal with some strange arrangements!  This is 
another plus for the K3 over the Orion II.  The ATU in my 
Orion II absolutely won't handle anything on 80, let alone 
160, with my R8.  I was getting a 1 to 1 match on 80, and a 
2.5 to 1 on 160.  It would be nice to have an antenna for 
those bands, but I just can't do it here.  Of course, that 
doesn't mean I'm going to be able to work those bands 
regularly, but it is kind of fascinating to find that the K3 
will do so much more than just about any other radio out 
there.  Having said that, I don't think I will press my luck 
and stress out the K3 on 160 with something like RTTY!  But 
in a pinch I might be able to at least say "Hi" to someone.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Chris Kantarjiev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 7:56 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Ducie ...


All this talk of easy RTTY QSOs got me going: I rigged my 
K2 with
a couple of patch cords to the sound card and figured out 
MMTTY: I
just made my first ever RTTY QSO to VP6DX with 5W on 30M 
...


I've got them QRP/CW on 80-10 and RTTY on 30. I'll keep 
trying for 160 but my
best antenna for that is a 40m dipole, so I rarely hear 
them much less

try to transmit :-)

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] [EMAIL PROTECTED] ????

[T. David Yarnes]

Well, yesterday was Sunday!  I don't think Gary (or whoever 
else checks the support mail) has a secretary either.  I'm 
sure they are a bit bogged down going through emails that 
probably stacked up a bit over the weekend.  So, yes you are 
being a "fussbudget!  Hi.  Give them a little time to catch 
up, and I'm sure they will get back to you.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Lee Buller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:05 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 



I have sent two support questions/isssue to 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  I did one late last night and 
another this morning.  I have heard nothing.  Is this 
normal?  I got build problemsHI :>)  It seems strange 
they haven't responded yet.  Maybe I am just a 
fussbudget


Lee - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short 
supply.  If you don't have any Common Sense - get some 
Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any Common 
Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. 
Is Common Sense divine?

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Re: [Elecraft] More K3 mojo

[T. David Yarnes]

Hi All,

I will claim a little "K3 Mojo" here too.  I've worked Ducie 
Island now on all modes from 10 meters through 40 meters. 
Not a great accomplishment you might say, considering that 
they are stronger than horseradish on just about every band 
and mode.  But the real tricky part when I decided to 
venture down further.  I listened on 80 CW, and there they 
were--nice signal too.  But I only have an R8 Vertical, 
which doesn't cover anything beyond 40 meters--supposedly. 
Ah, but the K3 has a pretty good ATU in it.  Pushed the 
button to tune, and it said 1:1 at the low end of 80 meters. 
Called the VP6 on CW and bingo!  Pretty amazing I thought, 
but have to give credit to their end more than mine.


This morning I thought I would listen on 160 just for kicks. 
There they were again, and very Q5.  You don't suppose 
there's enough Mojo in this thing to tune on 160 do you? 
Pushed the button, and it said 2.5:1.  Well, with 100 watts 
into that R8 it might be akin to QRP at the other end.  So I 
called on 1821 khz.  Two calls was all it took to get them 
on 160 CW!  Amazing--at least to me!


I have now concluded that with K3's at both ends, you can 
work them on any band with anything slightly better than a 
wet piece of string!  I sure hope they write a good article 
for QST or whatever which describes their antenna setup in 
some detail.  Pretty impressive, not to mention that they 
are all superb ops.  I better start listening on 6 meters!


Dave W7AQK




- Original Message - 
From: "K1DWZ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 8:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] More K3 mojo




The K3 mojo is still working.  I worked Ducie Island 
again, this time on 20
meters SSB with my K3 and an Elecraft MH2 mic running 10 
watts to a G5RV

antenna.

Ken  K1DWZ
K3 #167
--
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/More-K3-mojo-tp15673244p15673244.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX and K3

[T. David Yarnes]

Mark and all,

I've worked them on all modes from 15 through 40 meters 
except RTTY on 17.  Guess I didn't know they were doing RTTY 
on that band.  I'll have to give that more attention as 
their signal of 17 has generally been outstanding.


Unfortunately I've not been able to hear them on 12 meters, 
and only heard them once (but very weak) on 10 meters.  No 
antennas here for 80 or 160 I'm sorry to say.  I don't think 
they will be on much longer, so may try to rig up something 
for 80 meters this weekend at least.  My R8 vertical will 
actually load up on 80 meters, thanks to the apparently wide 
range of the K3's ATU, but obviously the antenna sucks on 
that band nevertheless.  I've manged to work a few friends 
in nearby states doing that, but not much else.  Obviously 
you have a little more mojo in whatever antenna you are 
using!  Hi.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "mark roz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 8:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] VP6DX and K3


With my K3 I have worked VP6DX on all HF bands 160m to
10m SSB and CW. RTTY on 30m and 17m without computer.
Total 20 QSO's. FB expedition and outstanding K3.
I'm sure that there are more operators with K3 that
did the same thing.
Mark WQ7X



 

Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
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Re: [Elecraft] slight OT: Elecrafter wins ARRL homebrew award

[T. David Yarnes]

Well, the other winner is certainly no surprise either!  In 
the non-PC supported category the winner was non other than 
Steve Weber, KD1JV.  I suspect there are very few people on 
this reflector who are unfamiliar with Steve and his many, 
many terrific designs.  On the straight QRP reflectors I 
suspect his name recognition is nearly 100%.   Steve is a 
past Hall of Fame Honoree from ARCI, and regularly comes up 
with some of the niftiest gadgets and radios you will find 
anywhere.  Several of his latest designs (all of which are 
meant to be high performance/low cost) are available through 
NorCal and/or QRPKits, Inc.  Steve is so prolific at coming 
up with things it makes one wonder if he has a real job! 
But I think he does.  Hi.


Anyway, congratulations to both Jim and Steve.  Pretty 
impressive stuff.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:02 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] slight OT: Elecrafter wins ARRL homebrew 
award




Remember the guy who took his K2 to the South Pole?

http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/KC4_sign.jpg

Well, here he is, up to something, again:

http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2008/02/22/100

Way to go, Jim!

* * *

Steve KZ1X/4
Owner of the World's Most Experienced Elecraft









Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX on 160M... MAN, talk about EARS!

[T. David Yarnes]

Good grief Tom!  Can't you make it difficult?

Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 3:14 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] VP6DX on 160M... MAN, talk about EARS!



Wh!

Just worked VP6DX on 160M... feeding ONLY the CENTER 
conductor of my 80/40/30M
dipole with about 120' of coax laying on the ground (170' 
total coax length)
and an estimated 20:1 SWR into the K3s ATU... which the 
KAT3 matched to <2:1

without complaint!

NOT ONLY THAT... as I was checking the 'metering' of the 
above listed parameters,
I happened to check my POWER setting... 8.2W output... 
seems I'd set the POWER
down in an effort to get an external ATU to give me a 
better 'starting' match
for the KAT3, but finding that the external ATU couldn't 
hit 160M I took it out
of the line BUT forgot to return the POWER to 100W as 
intended...!!


So not only did I work 'em with a MUCH less than optimum 
antenna (probably only
a few PERCENT efficient), I further hobbled myself 9and 
them!) by running (nearly)

QRP.

AND they still heard me!

73,

Tom  N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL CW DX

[T. David Yarnes]

Congrats Lenny!  You did well.  You didn't say which bands 
you were on, but I suspect 20 meters was your main one. 
Actually, 40 meters was more productive for me, but that was 
probably more due to my choice of operating times.  I worked 
about 50+ there, but I was "fudging" the power a bit more 
than you.


When you worked PZ5WW, you were very possibly working one of 
our more famous QRPers--Hank, K8DD, who is one of our most 
recent ARCI Hall of Fame additions.  There were 3 other ops 
along--Jay, W5JAY; Stan, AC8W; and Jim, KB8TXZ.  They will 
be operating through tomorrow I think, but using 
individually assigned calls in addition to PZ5WW.  Listen 
for them if you have a chance.


Also, if you haven't worked VP6DX yet, check around for that 
operation on Dulcie Island.  They have great signals on just 
about every band.  As I write this email, they are booming 
in on 40 CW.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "w2bvh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:58 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] ARRL CW DX


70 Q's, 42 countries, 12 watts with K2 1520 and a 130 ft 
cf zepp. Not exactly QRP, but with sunspots the way they 
are I'm willing to stretch a point. One of the countries 
was new for me: PZ5WW.  Lots of band noise on all bands. 
Coudn't break *any* pileups at all. When the sunspots were 
up I could break 60-70% at 5-10 watts. Even so it was fun. 
Did about 5 hours total.


73,
Lenny W2BVH
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Re: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!


As a native of the USA married to a native of the 
Netherlands, my favorite

is this:

"What do you call someone who speaks two languages?" 
Answer: "Bilingual".


"What do you call someone who speaks one language?" 
Answer: "An American".


Ron AC7AC



And, unfortunately, not very well as a general rule!

Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[T. David Yarnes]

No!  Just follow the instructions, and you will do fine. 
The main thing to remember is that each time the wire passes 
through the center of the toroid it constitutes one turn! 
In other words, if you simply passed a wire straight through 
the center of the toroid, that would be one turn!  Bringing 
one end of the wire around and through the center again 
constitutes the 2nd turn, etc.  Take your time with the 
first few at least, and before you know it you will feel 
like a pro.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:48 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1


I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver.
I am worried about the torroids  should I be?

   Bud
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Re: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!

[T. David Yarnes]

David,

You are right.  There is some confusion about who said it 
first.  I thought George Bernard Shaw said it first, but my 
good friend G4WIF insists it was Churchill.  I fear he may 
be right!  But whoever said it was very astute!


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "David Cutter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!


This phrase has been attributed to Churchill, Shaw, Wilde, 
Russell and more I dare say in one way or another.


David
G3UNA



David Yarnes you are my hero of the day!  Good call!  Ian 
is so right "two

countries seperated by one language"


countries separated a common language"

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Re: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!

[T. David Yarnes]

Hey Ian,

You might start a riot!  Now I happen to know that you Brits 
put your day first then your month, so your 11/6 order date 
is actually Juen 11th, right?  Problem is over here that 
would be interpreted as November 6th, and a whole bunch of 
folks would start getting excited about you jumping over 
them.  Hi.  I know--we doing everything backwards here in 
the colonies!


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Ian J Maude" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 1:25 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!


Waiting for me in my inbox this morning, ordered 11/6 with 
deposit.


Woohoo!

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #?

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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX RTTY QSOs on the K3 -- without a computer

[T. David Yarnes]

Keith,

See the post by Tom Hammond about an hour before your post. 
Tom explains it pretty well I think.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Darwin, Keith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:17 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] VP6DX RTTY QSOs on the K3 -- without 
a computer



I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to RTTY (call me a 
RTTY-iot :-).
When doing RTTY the old fashioned way (with a teletype 
machine) how fast
are chars sent?  I'm assuming they are sent at the 
operator's typing
speed.  With a computer, are RTTY messages buffered and sent 
in a burst

when the OP hits send or are they sent 1 char at a time?

If a person generates RTTY from the K3's keyer at 20 wpm is 
the RTTY
going to look odd to the receiver because of excessive 
inter-char gaps
or are those gaps rather common since many of us type slower 
than 60

wpm?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 -

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hammond

The 'baud rate' is always that user for RTTY( 45.45 bauds), 
BUT the RATE
at which the characters are actually SENT depends upon how 
fast you can

send them to the K3 using the internal keyer...
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[Elecraft] Re: VP6DX RTTY QSOs on the K3 -- without a computer

[T. David Yarnes]

- Original Message - 
From: "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "T. David Yarnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: VP6DX RTTY QSOs on the K3 -- without a computer



Hi Dave,


We planned it this way  :)  I also recommend that you 
insert an "IM" prosign (..--) at the end of any message 
used in DATA modes to truncate the usual CW-to-DATA 
timeout from 4 seconds to about 1 second. The IM character 
is ignored in CW mode.


Perfect!  Guess I missed that little tidbit in the manual! 
Works great too.  I have now changed my message to include 
the "IM" prosign, and it cuts off instantly--doesn't even 
seem like 1 second--more like a few milliseconds. 
Previously I had been manually hitting the "XMIT" button to 
override the delay.  Too bad it doesn't work on CW, as I 
also have a "CQ" message.  Although I'm not typically a 
"CQer", but I've found that when the band is quiet 
(particularly 30 meters) calling  CQ can liven things up now 
and then!


Thanks for the tip Wayne.  Have you thought about having an 
"operating hints" class for K3 owners? ( :  Maybe at Dayton 
over wine and cheese!


Dave W7AQK 



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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX RTTY QSOs on the K3 -- without a computer

[T. David Yarnes]

Hopefully you won't think I "cheated", but I put a message 
in one of the memory cells  to use for calling.  Working a 
pile-up can get a bit tiresome sending by hand all the time. 
So I put "DE W7AQK W7AQK W7AQK K K K"  in memory to do my 
calling.  Then when VP6DX came back (after several tries) I 
retuned using the paddle.  I guess you could even put the 
sig report response in a memory, but I chose not to.


But I have a question!  At what baud rate does a message 
come out of memory on RTTY?  On CW its at the rate you have 
your keyer set.  So, should I turn the speed up on RTTY?


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] VP6DX RTTY QSOs on the K3 -- without a 
computer



Several of us have worked Dulcie Island (VP6DX -- seven 
K3s!) in RTTY mode using the K3's CW-to-RTTY feature. This 
would be an auspicious occasion to give it a try, if you 
haven't already. It's quiet easy to do, as explained in 
one of our Operating Tips. See:


   http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_operating_tips.htm

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] D-104 and Radio Shack electret element

[T. David Yarnes]

I have not tried it on the K3, but I have done this many 
times in the past with other rigs.  I know W5JAY has played 
around with that also on his Pro III, and got very favorable 
comparisons with his Heil microphones.  All you need to do 
is find some old microphone housing, put in the RS electret 
element, and wire it appropriately.  I think you will be 
pleasantly surprised!


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Ralph Tyrrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:02 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] D-104 and Radio Shack electret element



Lots of mike comments have caused me to remember that
I have a D-104. And am waithing for a K3.
Has anyone put a Radio Shack electret element into a
D-104 and used it on a K3?
I want to plug into the rear mike jack.
Tips anyone?
Thanks.
73, Ty, W1TF K1 #1423


 

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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX on RTTY

[T. David Yarnes]

Just worked them on 20 RTTY the same way!  They are really 
putting out great sigs on most bands now.


I've been trying to snag the guys in Suriname--K8DD, W5JAY, 
etc.  They are using PZ5DD, PZ5AY, and PZ5WW, the latter of 
which will be their call in the contest.  They are using 
K2's.  So far though, they haven't been able to dig me out, 
and they are a bit weak here too.


Dave W7AQK



- Original Message - 
From: "Greg - AB7R" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" ; "Lee 
Buller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX on RTTY


Yes!  They were solid 599 in WA.  Worked them RTTY yesterday 
using the CW paddles.

Too cool!

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
K3#0009

On Wed Feb 13 19:31 , Lee Buller  sent:




Got VP6DX on RTTY this evening.  Heard them on 20 CW, but 
the band died.  Tomorrow!

Nice RTTY Signal.  Good copy


Lee - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short 
supply.  If you don't have
any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you 
can't find any Common
Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. 
Is Common Sense divine?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sidetone Volume

[T. David Yarnes]

Greg,

Nope!  No problem.  Just wanted to make sure it was on the 
list.  I couldn't remember if there was any indication 
previously that it would be returned to the original level 
(more or less).  I have no clue how involved it is to make 
these changes either, but I wasn't trying to push it for any 
immediate action.  I know there are lots of higher 
priorities.


Thanks for the reply and info.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Greg - AB7R" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" ; "'T . 
David Yarnes'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sidetone Volume


It is on the list Dave.  But please don't expect every 
request to show up in the very next

firmware release.  It's just not possible.

The MON level was cut back some for a reason.  Once that 
issue is sorted out, I believe

Wayne will kick it back up again.


-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
K3#0009



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[Elecraft] K3 Sidetone Volume

[T. David Yarnes]

I now have firmware V. 1.66 loaded in my K3.  I notice that 
it still only provides a sidetone volume from 0 to 40, 
whereas it initially would go higher (up to 60), both 
numerically and in actuality.  I commented on this some time 
back, after the firmware was changed and the attainable 
volume was lowered.  I know many feel that it is sufficient 
as currently provided.  When I use headphones, the currently 
offered range is probably sufficient.  Using the internal 
speaker though, I have to run it up near the top.  However, 
I preferred the range as previously provided, particularly 
when you are driving a larger external speaker.  I've tried 
several larger external speakers, and on most of them the 
sidetone is pretty anemic as currently provided.  I know 
several others who feel as I do.  Is this ever going to be 
returned to the original range?   Why was it changed?   Was 
it creating some other problem as originally configured?  If 
not, I think it should be returned to the original 
attainable level.  If you don't need that much, you don't 
have to use it.  But some folks do prefer the higher level 
option.  I'd sure like to see it get "on the list" for 
updating.


Dave W7AQK


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[Elecraft] K3 SSB Audio Issue

[T. David Yarnes]

Hi All,

I have had something rather strange occur a couple of times. 
While I don't get on SSB very much, I have been chatting 
with my friend Jay, W5JAY, on 40 meter SSB on occasion. 
Typically he has indicated that my audio sounds excellent. 
However, a couple of times he noted that my modulation went 
"south", and sounded like I was transmitting through a 
narrower filter.  This occured most recently the other 
evening.  I had not changed any settings that I know of. 
However, the "fix" seemed to be to go to the TX Filter 
setting (which was set for the 2.7 khz filter), and simply 
rotate the dial to another filter and then back  to the 2.7 
khz setting.  That's it!  The problem was solved.  My audio 
returned to its former "excellent" state.  Anyone else had 
such an occurance?


Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: K3 Tuner

[T. David Yarnes]

Sure!  And lug that thing around too when you travel!  ATU's 
definitely have some advantages, but admittedly they aren't 
a total solution.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Dave Agsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 5:04 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] RE: K3 Tuner



I've never used the auto tuner in my Pro III or
TS-2000x. I didn't order one with my K3 as I hate auto
tuners. Go buy a good old Dentron MT-3000A. It will
tune anything...

Dave N8AG


 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuner

[T. David Yarnes]

Brett and All,

While I can't officially confirm the KAT3's tuning range 
ability, I can tell you that it is pretty darn good!  It 
certainly is much better than just about any other inboard 
ATU I have used.  Elecraft claims a 10:1 range, and I have 
no reason to doubt it.


Currently I am in a travel status, and have been using my K3 
(KAT3 included) from my car.  I'm not really using it 
mobile, but I have been making a few QSO's while parked in 
front of my brother's house here in Ventura, California. 
The antenna I threw in the car to play with is NOT one I 
would consider to be very efficient.  I picked this one up 
at Pacificon last year, and it is sort of a "poor man's 
Outbacker" (not that the Outbacker is all that efficient 
either).  I didn't pay very much for it, that's for sure! 
Anyway, on 40 meters I more or less tuned the antenna 
outright for about 7100 khz.  From there, the KAT3 will tune 
the antenna at either end of 40 to 1:1.  I've had QSO's at 
both extremes.  That's not a very scientific confirmation of 
the quality of my signal, but at least the K3 is happy with 
what it is seeing.  On 20 meters my reports have been 
surprisingly good.  Much of the time I was only running 30 
or 40 watts to keep the current draw down.


As a comparison, I can tell you that at home my FT-1000 Mark 
V internal ATU doesn't like what it sees on the upper part 
of 40 meters where I am using an R7 vertical.  However, the 
K3 has no problem with the same antenna setup.


I'm not sure what your expectations are, but if they are 
reasonable, you won't be unhappy with the KAT3.


Dave W7AQK



- Original Message - 
From: "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 3:45 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 tuner



Brett Howard wrote:

I'm hoping that the K3 is speced to be able to go to a 
much worse

match than 3:1 right?

The answer is the K3 FAQ (still a good document to check 
out)

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3FAQ.htm

and more specifically here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3FAQ.htm#KAT3



And here is the TEXT of the answer:

Will the KAT3 have similar specs as the KAT100? 
Specifically, will it

match 10:1 SWR loads?

The K3's KAT3 ATU will match a range of 10:1 through 100W.

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RTTY decode enabled??

[T. David Yarnes]

Joe,

RTTY transmit and receive are both enabled on the K3.  You 
need to turn it on however.  Go to "digital mode", and then 
you need to set your K3 to RTTY by using both the "8" and 
"9" buttons on the keypad.  Both are accessed by "holding" 
rather than just "tapping".  On the "8" button you set it to 
"On" using VFO B's dial.  You can set the threshold at any 
level, but zero is usually fine.  Exit that menu with 
another "hold".  On the "9" button you will select the 
method for decoding.  Select the FSK D option.  Exit that 
menu now with another "hold"  Now if you just "tap" the "8" 
button you can turn on the "CWT" tuning indicator.  You will 
see a small, inverted triangle on your display centered over 
the S meter line.  As you tune across an RTTY signal you 
want to get to a point where you see (hopefully) 3 bars on 
each side of the triangle.  At that point the K3 should 
display the RTTY being sent.  The display will probably 
already being displaying characters before you get to that 
point, but it will be hash.  Now you can also transmit RTTY 
if you wish, simply by sending CW using your paddle.


I've probably bastardized the explanation of this, but it's 
all in the manual.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Joseph Trombino Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 8:17 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 RTTY decode enabled??


Is the RTTY decode feature on the K3 enable in the current 
formware version???


   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore I 
am

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 + KAT100 + Cushcradt R8 Vertical

[T. David Yarnes]

Hi Phil and All,

I have used an R7 for many years, and it has performed very 
well.  I was always able to load it effectively on 40 meters 
across the band, even though I had it set for the CW 
portion.  Other bands are not a problem at all.  The K2 ATU 
does a very nice job.  I did have some problem on the higher 
end of 40 meters using the ATU in the FT-1000 MP Mark V.


Just recently I also added an R8 here, and I am currently 
using it with the K3.  If anything, the R8 seemed a little 
easier to load on 40, even with other rigs.  The K3's ATU 
has no problem loading the R8.  I assume the ATU in the K3 
is reasonably similar to the K2's ATU.  I haven't actually 
tried using the K2 on the R8 yet, but I doubt there would be 
a problem.  40 meters would be your only possible problem 
band, and if you want to be a little extra cautious you 
might consider setting it for the middle of the band--around 
7150 khz or so.  I think that would probably be something I 
should do as well, just to make life easier.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Phil Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 4:54 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 + KAT100 + Cushcradt R8 Vertical




 I am contemplating replacing my B&W Wideband Folded 
Dipole with

 a Cushcraft R8, the successor to the R7, as my "main" HF
 antenna.  The B&W is best described as a resistor with 
wires -
 about 10% efficient although it does cover all amateur 
bands
 from 160m to above 10m equally badly.  I will have to 
retain it

 for operation on 80m and 160m, though.

 What I am curious about is whether the KAT100 can 
compensate
 for the limited bandwidth of the R8 on the lower bands, 
and how

 well the R8 holds up in windstorms (we don't get much ice
 here).  I expect to be feeding the antenna through about 
50

 feet of good quality 50-ohm cable.

 Real world experience appreciated.

--
  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
  Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

  From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
  Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: CW-to-RTTY with message buffers: are spaces there?

[T. David Yarnes]

I missed some of this discussion, so I may be off track 
here.  But I think I know what Vic means.  Some message 
memories record in real time--you leave a long space, and it 
shows up in your memory the same way.  But the K3 seems to 
be tied to a rather precise gap between letters or words.


Actually, this kind of method will help point out flaws in 
the way a person sends.  Some time back I was trying to 
record a "CQ" message in a keyer memory, and I discovered I 
had developed a tendency to leave a bit too much space 
between my next-to-last call letter and the last letter.  I 
was sending "W7AQK" as "W7AQ K".  I probably did it for 
years!  It was also possibly one of the reasons so many 
people came back to me as "W7AQ", thinking I had sent the 
"K" as an "invitation to transmit".   In contests, etc., 
they weren't even waiting for the second "K" at the end. 
Now that I've been paying more intention (and it hasn't been 
easy getting out of that habit), I don't seem to get as many 
incorrect responses.


The message buffers in the K3 are pretty large, so they make 
a pretty good recording device for recording yourself and 
checking on your sending technique.  I know this method is 
kind of a pain in the butt for a lot of us, but I really 
like it if my messages come out like machine code.  I'm not 
sure other methods would do this as effectively.


Another thing I've been playing with a bit is sending CW and 
letting the K3 convert it to RTTY.  If you don't move right 
along, with proper spacing, you get a bunch of extra garbage 
between characters.  Being able to send RTTY without a 
computer is sort of a "gee whiz" feature, but it's been fun 
playing with it.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: CW-to-RTTY with message buffers: are 
spaces there?




Tom Hammond wrote:

One way to handle this would be to use "1/4 letter 
space" as the basic spacing element. Then recording, 
decoding, and playback would be closer to real-time.


Can you 'splain this a bit better Vic? Never heard of 
this method of timing... always worked on the baud 
method.


First I have to reverse-engineer Wayne's code!

The firmware now listens to the spaces between characters 
as you send. If the space is less than some fixed 
threshold it assumes that it is a letter space; if more, a 
word space.


When it records what you have sent, it puts in a token 
that indicates either a word space or a letter space is 
needed. During playback, when it comes to a letter-space 
token it waits for the appropriate time (whatever that 
is);  when it comes to a word-space token it waits longer.


This means that while you are recording, if you wait a 
little bit past the threshold that it uses to decide what 
size space it is, it will put in a word space token. So 
when I send my call K 2VCO, I get K   2VCO.


My suggestion is that instead of just two possibilities 
for spacing, there should be more. This could be 
implemented by creating tokens for smaller spaces, like 
1/4 of a letter space. That would sound almost like a 
real-time recording, in terms of preserving the spacing as 
sent. But even using units of half of a letter space would 
avoid the difficulty that those of us who do not send like 
tape machines have when recording messages!

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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