[Elecraft] Mobile Elecraft

[Dr. David M Getzy]

Thanks to all that sent me tremendous information regarding mobile operation 
using Elecraft radios, on and offline.

73s

Dave, WS0D

Dr. Dave Getzy
Fort Collins, CO

Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] Mobile Elecraft

[Dr. David M Getzy]

Morning Folks,

I have always had some type of amateur radio in my car.  First licensed in 
junior high and now at 62, I have gone through a lot of radios and variations 
in my shack.  For several reasons, I have decided to "simplify" my station, and 
have a Elecraft only approach to my on the air time. 

As I have followed this forum, I haven't seem much discussion about how people 
have used an Elecraft radio in their cars, rvs, etc. Specifically, I'm 
wondering what radios have been found to work well in the car, how the radio 
has been mounted/connected, what other accessories may be helpful- 
i.e.-speakers/etc., and what type of emf radiator has been most effective for 
HF and VHF work.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated. I will shortly be trying to pull any 
info from the archives (sorry for doing this backwards). 

Thanks in advance.  As I pretty much maxed out my Elecraft station this week 
(someone please stop me from replacing my K3 with the K3s), I've got a bunch of 
radios and accessories collected over 45 years for sale- any one interested 😉.

Vy 73,

Dave, WS0D



Dr. Dave Getzy
Fort Collins, CO

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 in Attic Looking for Six Meters

[david m]

On Sun, 2011-03-20 at 12:00 -0400, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
wrote:
> Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 in Attic Looking for Six Meters

I have a similar setup.  I have a ~120 ft dipole made out of ribbon
cable strung under my eaves, and wrapped around the sides of the house.
Not ideal,  but it is nearly invisible,  and I have worked 44 of 50
states on 75m SSB, many contacts on 40m and 20m (mainly PSK31, but some
SSB), several in Europe, all with K2/100 #7006 with an external
autotuner.  I'm in the planning stages for a better wire antenna in the
backyard.

David  AJ4TF

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2, KPA100, N-GEN, W1 Construction Blog

[david m]

Roger that... I also just completed a KPA100 for K2 # 7006.  

Pictures located here:

http://sled351a.dyndns.org/radio.html

73,

de AJ4TF  David



> 
> --
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 15:57:51 -0800 (PST)
> From: K1FFX 
> Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] K2, KPA100, N-GEN, W1 Construction Blog
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <1295395071978-5937734.p...@n2.nabble.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> 
> Builders may find some of the text and a lot of the pictures posted at
> http://build-k2.blogspot.com http://build-k2.blogspot.com 
> to be helpful.  I tracked my kit-building activity
> from late July, 2010, through today. As of today, my K2/100 is up and
> running ... a very satisfying feeling!
> 
> 73 -
> 
> Bruce
> K1FFX
> 
> 
> -
> Bruce Rosen
> K1FFX
> 
> -- 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/KPA100 build for K2-7006

[david m]

Thanks Richard (AD7FZ) for the replacement parts.  Elecraft rocks!

73,
David AJ4TF


On Mon, 2011-01-10 at 00:22 -0500, david wrote:
> So far so good.  The KPA100 passed the first functional test without
> issue.  The only thing I have run into is that I was missing one small
> capacitor, and one of the toroid cores was cracked... I didn't notice it
> until I started winding it and it fell apart.  The Elecraft parts
> department has an email in their in-box (two, actually).  
> 
> I am now up to the steps just after installing and winding the large
> output transformer.
> 
> Kudos (again) for the excellent instructions!
> 
> 73,
> 
> David Macchiarolo  AJ4TF
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

[david m]

No, it is not false.  The problem is that when you get up, and move
around, your potential will change from that of the equipment.   Touch
it again, and you can have an ESD event.  Ground the equipment and
yourself (through a high value resistor) and it will ensure that
everything will remain at the same potential no matter 

There are different ways that ESD events can occur: the human body model
is where a charged person discharged into a device at a lower potential,
which is the most common,  The charged device model, which is not as
common but still equally valid, is where a device is charged through
either contact with another charged object, or through tribocharging of
itself.  When this device contacts a surface of lower or ground
potential, a discharge can occur and damage it.

I've been working with ESD protection for more than 25 years, so, I'll
keep doing what has been proven to work, has been scientifically
accepted by the EOS/ESD Association, the electronics industry and the
military.  You're free to do what you want, of course.

AJ4TF



On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 14:04 -0700, David Gilbert wrote:
> 
> Wrong.
> 
> First off, the guy never said anything about connecting the item to
> ground ... he stated that as long as you were connected to ground you
> were OK.  That's false.
> 
> It is also false that both of you need to be connected to ground for
> ESD, although that may be good practice for other reasons.  All that
> is necessary is that you and the stuff you're working on be connected
> to the same potential.  It's basic Ohm's Law 101.
> 
> Dave   AB7E
> 
>   
> 
> On 12/18/2010 12:49 PM, david m wrote: 
> > 
> > YES YES YES.  Ground both yourself and the item you're working on.  It's
> > basic ESD prevention 101.
> > 
> > 
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700
> > > From: David Gilbert 
> > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
> > > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > > Message-ID: <4d0b9ad7.9070...@cis-broadband.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground.  You want to 
> > > connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on 
> > > (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on).  Connecting 
> > > yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a 
> > > potential between you and the rig.
> > > 
> > 
> > __
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> > 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

[david m]

Yes. If you are using a commercially available wrist strap, the 1M
resistor is built in.  An anti-static mat will also have a surface
resistivity of at least 1Mohm/sq.  Ground both and you'll be safe, and
your equipment will be safe as well. 

On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 15:08 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> NOT a direct ground - through a high value (1 megohm) resistor, YES.
> That is basic SAFETY.
> 
> Connecting your body directly to ground can cause bodily harm or even 
> death if you accidentally come in contact with a source of voltage.  
> Even low voltages can be dangerous if the source is capable of high 
> current (such as a battery).
> 
> For the same reasons, do not work on a fully conducting work surface - 
> that may be fine for auto mechanic work, but should never be used to 
> work on any electrical or electronic circuits.  It is a matter of 
> personal safety.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 12/18/2010 2:49 PM, david m wrote:
> > YES YES YES.  Ground both yourself and the item you're working on.  It's
> > basic ESD prevention 101.
> >
> >> NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground.  You want to
> >> connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on
> >> (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on).  Connecting
> >> yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a
> >> potential between you and the rig.
> >>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

[david m]

 
YES YES YES.  Ground both yourself and the item you're working on.  It's
basic ESD prevention 101.


> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700
> From: David Gilbert 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <4d0b9ad7.9070...@cis-broadband.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> 
> 
> NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground.  You want to 
> connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on 
> (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on).  Connecting 
> yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a 
> potential between you and the rig.
> 


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[Elecraft] K2 7006

[david m]

Just wanted to say how pleased I am with K2 #7006.  It works very well,
and I have made several QRP contacts on different bands even with my
currently terrible antenna setup. It currently has the SSB & Audio
Filter options.  Kudos to Elecraft, and all of the helpful members of
this list.

73,

AJ4TF

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Re: [Elecraft] Cords and connectors are evil

[david m]

In my work, we have a saying.. all system faults are caused by defective
LABLES and CABLES.  ;-)

AJ4TF

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[Elecraft] K2 s/n 7006 is working

[david m]

Receiving on 40m and 80m with just a ~20 ft piece of wire into the
antenna jack.  RF output into a dummy load.  

Now working on the SSB module.  




73,  
David 
AJ4TF 

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[Elecraft] K2 S/N 7006 assembly is moving along

[david m]

Receiver is alive and kicking on 40m.  Awesome kit!

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[Elecraft] K2 trimmer cap orientation - Never mind

[david m]

Never mind, I found an excellent post by Don that explains it well -
rotor is the grounded end.  Thanks for this great resource!

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[Elecraft] K2 7006 is alive

[david m]

S/N 7006 has passed through the first checkout and alignment tests with
no issues.  Great kit!  Great instructions!

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] S/N 7006 assembly started

[david m]

Great, 
Thanks for the info!


On Fri, 2010-09-03 at 22:12 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> David,
> 
> Enjoy the build.  Yes, the manual is quite good - my 14 year old 
> grandson was able to complete a K2 build using only the instructions and 
> a (very) few helps from "grandpa".
> 
> Enjoy the build, and you can be rightfully proud of the results.
> 
> I can offer one assist - the varactor characteristics have changed from 
> the time the manual was written, so the variable filter settings for the 
> SSB filters indicated in the manual are no longer valid - the more 
> narrow CW settings are OK.  For instance, a filter width as indicated by 
> the K2 display of 2.00 kHz may actually be 3 kHz or more.  The best 
> solution to this "problem" is to use Spectrogram (or similar) to measure 
> the actual passband width.  Refer to my website (www.w3fpr.com) article 
> dealing with K2 Dial  Calibration for information about how the set up 
> and use Spectrogram to set the K2 filters.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/3/2010 9:45 PM, david m wrote:
> > Control board finished, started on front panel. I am very impressed with
> > the quality of the kit, and the documentation.
> >
> > David
> > AJ4TF
> >
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] [K2] S/N 7006 assembly started

[david m]

Control board finished, started on front panel. I am very impressed with
the quality of the kit, and the documentation.

David
AJ4TF



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Re: [Elecraft] Power Control

[David M. Elliott]

For what it is worth, mine (1740) does the same thing on 6 meters.  For 
example, I can't set the power to 10 watts on 6.  The same does not happen on 
80 meters.
I also notice that the receive gain is lower in the dead band between 8 and 13 
watts.

73 de W6BK

On Aug 14, 2010, at 8:05 AM, k4pi wrote:

> Just finished installing the DSP board after the return from Aptos and then 
> loading the latest program updates.  I know when turning the power control 
> there is a known dead spot between 8 and 13 watts which I hope them can 
> correct soon, but I noticed that there is an increase in the receive gain at 
> this point.  When I turn the Power knob from 8 to 13 in receive mode the 
> receive gain jumps up 1 S unit almost like the preamp was turned on.  I 
> tried different setting of the preamp and the ATT but the gain wll always 
> increase 1 S unit over whatever the S meter is reading when the power level 
> indication moves from 8 to 13 watts..  I am looking at it on 6 M and have 
> not tried it on other bands but wondered if anyone else notices this? 
> Nothing I can't live with..
> 
> Regarding the dead spot 8-13 watts, I use a solid state amp and I can run 
> either down around 400 watts or I can run up near 1 Kw but not in between 
> due to the dead spot.
> 
> 73 Mike K4PI 
> 
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[Elecraft] Outstanding Service Again

[David M. Elliott]

Even though this is a very busy time with the early shipping of the P3s and one 
of the Elecraft service techs on vacation, I still had a major problem 
diagnosed and a new board sent to me overnight.  my K3 was back in operation in 
less than 24 hours.

Great job guys.

73 de W6BK
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Re: [Elecraft] My First steps on CW

[David M. Elliott]

Ed,

Google: "K7QO code course"

If you faithfully follow it for about 15 minutes a day, your code speed will be 
at least 18 wpm in about a month.  Then you will really start to have fun with 
your KX1.

Remember that your KX1 has only 3 or 4 watts output so use good QRP practices.  
Use the best antenna you can and send a lot of CQs.  7.060 and 14.060 are good 
QRP frequencies to try.  (Google : "QRP")  We will be listening for you.

73 de W6BK


On Aug 6, 2010, at 5:28 AM, EMD wrote:

> 
> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
> 
> I was able to finish building my KX1 with your your help!  After spending
> much more time off the air than I planned I think I'm ready to give CW a
> try.  For more months than I would care to admit I have been learning CW
> using lcwo, and my MFJ morse tutor.  It took me a while to get through all
> 40 lessons and I'm still not that great, copying about 80% with a character
> rate of 13 wpm and an actual wpm of 5.  I still have trouble with 'F' for
> what ever reason, maybe my 54yr old tin ears or rapidly advancing age or
> both.
> 
> I understand on 40m a good frequency to get a patient ear is 7114.  Is there
> a similar frequency on 20m?
> 
> So if you hear me out there I look forward to making my first CW contact.
> 
> Thanx in advance for your patience.
> 
> 73, Ed
> KE7HGA
> 
> Forgot to mention I live close to Baltimore MD 
> -- 
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/My-First-steps-on-CW-tp5380378p5380378.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

[David M. Elliott]

You can download a pretty good spl meter for the iphone through the App Store.  
It is free and works well.  Search for sound meter at the App Store.

I downloaded it at a rock concert with a friend's kids -- went immediately to 
the drug store and bought ear plugs.


73 de W6BK

On May 29, 2010, at 3:31 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:

>> It seems pretty clear that the early fans were indeed 
>> silent, certainly the
>> same cannot be said of the UTEC ones in my #980.  Gary 
>> kindly even sent me
>> some more but the difference was negligible.  I have spent 
>> a lot of time on
>> this, even mounting the fan panel on rubber bushes - all 
>> to no avail.
> 
> That isn't surprising. Fan mounts, although people really 
> like to mess with them, almost never have a noticeable 
> effect on noise.
> 
> Other than the design of the fan itself, the number one 
> thing that affects noise is having an object near the blades 
> (especially out near the tips). Restricting the airflow also 
> doesn't help. The worse thing to do for a given amount of 
> restriction is place it on the fan inlet.
> 
> I haven't played with a K3,  but cutting some thick spacers 
> to move the fans outward from the PA might be worth a try. 
> Cheap sound meters are readily available, and a good way to 
> test.
> 
> 73 Tom 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[David M. Elliott]

Here is what I use.  I don't know of any smaller.

http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

73 de W6BK
On May 22, 2010, at 9:47 AM, Phil LaMarche wrote:

> I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
> is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?
> 
> Phil
> 
> Philip LaMarche
> 
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
> p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
> www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com   
> 
> 727-944-3226
> 727-937-8834 Fax
> 727-510-5038 Cell 
> 
> www.w9dvm.com  
> 
> K3 #1605
> 
> CCA 98-00827
> CRA 1701
> W9DVM
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SPE Expert 1K-FA and ALC

[David M. Elliott]

Hi Guy,

Apparently the reflector does not pass emails with large attachments.  I think 
it is pretty graphic and I would like others to see it if I can figure out how. 
 I'll call SteppIR tomorrow and discuss it with them.  I support your 
recommendation
 that they take that recommended method of operation out of their manual.  I 
will forward that email to Gianfranco at SPE (Expert).

Thanks for all your help.

73 de W6BK


On May 16, 2010, at 1:20 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

> Hi Dave,
> 
> I'm not sure that the embedded picture I received from you would be passed by 
> the reflector, so I'm just quoting your text below.
> 
> The graphics show that peak distortion in the adjacent channel was only down 
> 25 db from in-channel max power. This even though your trebled up voice is 
> still fairly bass controlled.  
> 
> Which means that if you were up or down from this signal at 20 over on 
> channel, you would be hearing S8 or S9 splatter from it.  Sounds familiar, 
> doesn't it.  
> 
> The 1500 watt power spike is particularly frightening, especially if it comes 
> out of my wallet.  Might want to pass your results on to the manufacturer as 
> a customer and request they pull that recommendation from their publications 
> and web page. Make sure they understand it's getting them a lot of bad press 
> and is NOT panning out.  
> 
> About as graphic an underscore to Wayne's warning as one can get.   (Sorry, 
> couldn't resist) 
> 
> 73, Guy
> 
> >>
> 
> Hello Guy,
> 
> Well, you sure called it.  This screen shot is taken under the same 
> conditions as the previous ones except that the tx equalizer was set to try 
> and simulate a Heil HC4.  The tx equalizer settings were: 1 - 0db, 2 - 0db, 3 
> - 0db, 4 - 0db, 5 - +2db, 6 - + 4db, 7 - + 10db, and 8 - +10db.  Two things I 
> noticed right away:  First, the peak power is nearly 1500 watts!  I sure am 
> glad I still have finals in the Expert.  Second, there is definite splatter 
> as evidenced by the light and dark blue on the Modulation quickview window.
> 
> One can say a lot of things about these tests but one thing comes through 
> loud and clear to me:
> 
> ALC should not be used to control the K3 set to 100 watts with the Expert 1K 
> FA.  Rather the power should be set on each band to just what the Expert 
> needs to reach full power.  
> 
> To do otherwise may cause splatter and might result in final failure.  How 
> long can the Expert finals take this kind of abuse?
> 
> 73 de W6BK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SPE Expert 1K-FA and ALC

[David M. Elliott]

> or otherwise detect the bad clicks on a MEASURED dirty rig, for
> whatever reason I really don't know.  So I'm skeptical since I don't
> see much difference in hearing splatter and hearing key clicks.
> 
> The problem I have, even if the SBE does manage to do amplification
> relatively cleanly, is if someone else reads this thread later on
> without any blowback on the claim, the readers extrapolate to other
> amps and there it goes...  So the SBE method is not going without
> blowback.  SBE may think they have created a marketing
> differentiation, but for the time being they've crossed themselves off
> my list on account of recommending smashmouth drive and ALC.  What
> else that I don't know about, yet?
> 
> 73, Guy.
> 
> On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 6:32 PM, David M. Elliott
>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> These two screen shots were taken using a WaveNode WN2.  The exciter was a 
>> K3 and the amplifier was the Expert 1K FA.  Both were SSB at 3.952 MHz.  The 
>> conditions for both of these screen shots were the same except that the 
>> first one was using an exciter power of 25 watts and the second was using an 
>> exciter power of 100 watts.  The amp was using ALC control in both cases.
>> 
>> I don't see any signs of splatter in either case, do you?
>> 
>> This test seems to support what the Expert folks are saying.
>> 
>> 73 de W6BK
>> 
>> 
>> On May 15, 2010, at 1:48 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>> 
>>> Because if you are using something you can measure, like two tone, the
>>> gains are already set and steady.  To measure leading edge distortions
>>> before an AGC loop or loops bite and settle takes some pretty
>>> expensive lab equipment, both before and after the transmitter/amp.
>>> What you got?
>>> 
>>> It IS terrible advice.
>>> 
>>> 73, Guy.
>>> 
>>> On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 4:25 PM, David M. Elliott
>>>  wrote:
>>>> If increased distortion is guaranteed, why doesn't it show on the spectrum 
>>>> scope?
>>>> 
>>>> We are obviously missing something here.
>>>> 
>>>> 73 de W6BK
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On May 15, 2010, at 11:03 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Sorry, with all due respect this is HORRIBLE advice.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I won't argue with those that say that the ALC should be connected for 
>>>>> its protective
>>>>> value. But it should not be depended on to control output level -- the 
>>>>> exciter should be
>>>>> adjusted to produce approximately the drive required for full output.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The SPE Expert may have an exclusive design, but it is not exclusive 
>>>>> enough to include a
>>>>> time machine so that it can know how loud the operator is planning to 
>>>>> talk, and it doesn't
>>>>> control the delay inherent in the exciter's ALC circuitry.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The result is guaranteed to be increased distortion.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 5/15/2010 4:25 AM, Björn Mohr wrote:
>>>>>> 2010/4/22, LA8AW:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Here is the statement from the developer of the SPE Expert 1K-FA - 
>>>>>> regarding
>>>>>>> ALC, quoted from an early Expert Reflector:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I hope this will clarify the SPE Expert vs K3 - and ALC !!
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> We really suggest to always leave the transceiver's output power manual 
>>>>>>> control to
>>>>>>> its maximum level because the EXPERT, thanks to its exclusive design, 
>>>>>>> will provide to
>>>>>>> control that level as long as the required optimal value will be 
>>>>>>> reached.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> --
>>>>> Vic, K2VCO
>>>>> Fresno CA
>>>>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>>>>> __
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>>>> 
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>> 
>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SPE Expert 1K-FA and ALC

[David M. Elliott]

In general, I would agree with You and Guy and Vic.

However, Gianfranco of SPE (Expert) suggests running the exciter at full power. 
 He says there is no splatter and the proof of the pudding is in the eating.  
That seems to be true.  I can't see any splatter on the WaveNode and several on 
the air tests report fine audio with no splatter.

I repeat:  There is something here we don't understand.

Any comment, Gianfranco?

73 de W6BK



73 de W6BK
On May 15, 2010, at 2:13 PM, Rob wrote:

> I agree with Guy and Vic. It is not good to load up an amp and use AGC to 
> tamp it down. Lord knows there are enough bad sounding stations already on 
> the air, especially on sideband.
> 
> Rob K6RB
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Vic K2VCO" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 11:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SPE Expert 1K-FA and ALC
> 
> 
> Sorry, with all due respect this is HORRIBLE advice.
> 
> I won't argue with those that say that the ALC should be connected for its 
> protective
> value. But it should not be depended on to control output level -- the 
> exciter should be
> adjusted to produce approximately the drive required for full output.
> 
> The SPE Expert may have an exclusive design, but it is not exclusive enough 
> to include a
> time machine so that it can know how loud the operator is planning to talk, 
> and it doesn't
> control the delay inherent in the exciter's ALC circuitry.
> 
> The result is guaranteed to be increased distortion.
> 
> On 5/15/2010 4:25 AM, Björn Mohr wrote:
>> 2010/4/22, LA8AW:
>> 
>> 
>> Here is the statement from the developer of the SPE Expert 1K-FA - 
>> regarding
>>> ALC, quoted from an early Expert Reflector:
>>> 
>>> I hope this will clarify the SPE Expert vs K3 - and ALC !!
>>> 
>>> We really suggest to always leave the transceiver's output power manual 
>>> control to
>>> its maximum level because the EXPERT, thanks to its exclusive design, 
>>> will provide to
>>> control that level as long as the required optimal value will be reached.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SPE Expert 1K-FA and ALC

[David M. Elliott]

If increased distortion is guaranteed, why doesn't it show on the spectrum 
scope?

We are obviously missing something here.

73 de W6BK


On May 15, 2010, at 11:03 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

> Sorry, with all due respect this is HORRIBLE advice.
> 
> I won't argue with those that say that the ALC should be connected for its 
> protective 
> value. But it should not be depended on to control output level -- the 
> exciter should be 
> adjusted to produce approximately the drive required for full output.
> 
> The SPE Expert may have an exclusive design, but it is not exclusive enough 
> to include a 
> time machine so that it can know how loud the operator is planning to talk, 
> and it doesn't 
> control the delay inherent in the exciter's ALC circuitry.
> 
> The result is guaranteed to be increased distortion.
> 
> On 5/15/2010 4:25 AM, Björn Mohr wrote:
>> 2010/4/22, LA8AW:
>> 
>> 
>> Here is the statement from the developer of the SPE Expert 1K-FA - regarding
>>> ALC, quoted from an early Expert Reflector:
>>> 
>>> I hope this will clarify the SPE Expert vs K3 - and ALC !!
>>> 
>>> We really suggest to always leave the transceiver's output power manual 
>>> control to
>>> its maximum level because the EXPERT, thanks to its exclusive design, will 
>>> provide to
>>> control that level as long as the required optimal value will be reached.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Modes Software for Mac

[David M. Elliott]

Dave,  

One of the beauties of the K3 is that it does these mode all by itself.  All 
you need is K3 utility for Mac and use the terminal.

73 de W6BK


On Apr 27, 2010, at 2:01 PM, David Guernsey wrote:

> Thinking about trying data modes (RTTY and PSK31) with my new K3.  Does 
> anyone have any recommendations for software for Mac OS X for data modes?  
> Using a Mac Mini with my K3 Utility program.
> 
> 73s de Dave KJ6CBS
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil HC-4, HC-5

[David M. Elliott]

Depends on what you want to sound like.  HC4 is very narrow.  In my opinion, it 
is lousy under any circumstances.  HC5 is less so but still very narrow.  The 
new HC6 gives very good almost HI FI results with the K3.  I have tried them 
all with the K3 and that is my opinion.  If you use the wide band HC6, you can 
use the equalizer on the K3 to match either the HC4 or HC5.

73 de W6BK

On Mar 31, 2010, at 7:22 PM, Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:

> I'm about to purchase a Heil Proset to use with my K3.
> Which "AD-1" will I need..???
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Amps

[David M. Elliott]

Check out the Italian Expert 1K FA solid state amp.  

Here is a video:

http://www.radio-ham.eu/video.htm

SteppIR represents them in the USA.

73de W6BK


On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:52 PM, Andreas Junge wrote:

> Let me add another data point why a KPA800 makes sense:
> 
> I only have 120V in the shack, so I would like to see a solid state amp that 
> can do 800W with a built in power supply. That's probably  the max you can 
> get out of that circuit 15A * 80% *120V = 1440W  max continuos. At 50% 
> efficiency you can do about 800W with that. Adding 220V (208V) is not an 
> option for me and maybe a lot of others.
> 
> I already have a TT Hercules II 500W solid state amp, but it runs of 12V with 
> 90A off a battery that is trickle charged. 
> 
> Andreas, N6NU
> 
> 
> On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:22 PM, rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:
> 
>> Hmmm, why is it necessary to run 1500 watts?
>> 
>> Seems like a huge investment in amplifiers, antennas, accessories and cables 
>> along with the associated maintenance.
>> 
>> We here you guys but you often don't her us. Perhaps power does not replace 
>> an efficient antenna system?
>> 
>> Although we are restricted to 400w in VK, most operators seem to do well 
>> running around that power anyway.
>> 
>> Is the US different in as much as you have high QRM/QRN ? And 1500 watts is 
>> what you need to be heard by other stations?
>> 
>> Just curious, no criticism meant(:-))
>> 
>> I would still like to see a KPA-500 released regardless of the older pair 
>> once mooted.
>> 
>> 73's
>> Gary
>> Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] NEW: K3 Front Panel Switch Customization

[David M. Elliott]

Wayne,

That would do it for me.  Any idea of the time frame for TX*EQ?

73 de W6BK

On Oct 25, 2009, at 9:33 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> This would be very difficult to do with switch emulation commands.  
> We plan to make TX EQ per-mode, so hopefully you won't need to  
> change it on the fly.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Oct 25, 2009, at 9:00 PM, David M. Elliott wrote:
>
>> Has anybody figured out how to program the TX EQ with a macro?
>>
>> 73 de W6BK
>>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] NEW: K3 Front Panel Switch Customization

[David M. Elliott]

Has anybody figured out how to program the TX EQ with a macro?

73 de W6BK


On Oct 25, 2009, at 3:13 PM, Chuck Guenther wrote:

> Like W6NEK, I like a wider bandwidth to listen to CW pileups;
> however I don't yet have a subreceiver.
>
> So, here's my UP1 macro:
>
> SWT13;SWT13;FT1;UPB4;RT0;XT0;SWT11;BW0050;SWT11;
>
> Provides split with VFO B set up 1 KHz, and a bandwidth of 500 Hz,  
> while
> preserving the operator's bandwidth setting for VFO A.
>
> BTW, watch those semicolons versus colons!  I thought my K3 wasn't
> responding
> correctly-- turned out I typed a colon instead of a semicolon in a  
> saved
> macro.
>
> I figured out (maybe it is in the programming manual somewhere) that
> SWT13 in
> Wayne's SPLIT+2 macro refers to a tap on switch row 1, column 3;  
> therefore
> SWT11 refers to a tap on switch row 1, column 1 (A/B).
>
> 73,
> Chuck Guenther  NI0C
> K3 s/n 1061
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[Elecraft] re VFO A lockup on NR

[David M. Elliott]

Sorry guys.  This is apparently normal.  Only locks while NR setting  
is being displayed  (same with NTCH).

73 de W6BK
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[Elecraft] VFO Alocks up when engage NR

[David M. Elliott]

Interesting effect.  While working 20 meter cw qrp contest, I noticed  
that when I turn on NR (any setting),  VFO A locks up.  The lock  
symbol does not come on.  1740, 3.41.

Anyone else notice this?

73 de W6BK
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Re: [Elecraft] SPLIT mode reset on band change

[David M. Elliott]

H,  not on my K3 (1740, 3.41).

It depends on how you do it.  If I go to the next band up with the  
band up button, split goes off.  When I go back down using the band  
down button, the split is still there.  If I go to the next band up  
using the memory button, split is gone as before but it does not come  
back when I go back down using the memory button.

73 de W6BK


On Oct 15, 2009, at 9:14 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> Hi Barry,
>
> Set CONFIG:SPLT SV to YES. This preserves the on/off states of SPLT,
> RIT, and XIT on band change.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Oct 15, 2009, at 9:08 AM, Barry Pfeil wrote:
>
>> In the year I have had my K3 I have used it mainly for contesting
>> and hardly ever operated in split mode.  Lately I have been chasing
>> some DX and had more than my usual share of mistakes calling on the
>> transmit frequency of the DX.  I was just shaking my head at my own
>> incompetence until it finally dawned on me that the K3 switches off
>> the "SPLIT" mode every time I change bands.  Can that function be
>> turned off?
>>
>> 73, Barry K6RM
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Re: [Elecraft] Spotting DX

[David M. Elliott]

Yes.  Isn't it wonderful.  They also read this reflector and respond,  
sometimes within minutes, to important issues.  Wouldn't it be nice if  
some of our elected representatives did this?

73 de W6BK

On Oct 15, 2009, at 9:04 AM, wb6r...@mac.com wrote:

> With diversity RX on the K3 - IE VFOs synched, you can also operate  
> split. HOLD SPLIT to enable TX on VFO B. Then HOLD REV and use VFO A  
> to listen and tune to the split TX frequency. Release REV and  
> diversity RX is restored.
>
> A very elegant implementation by designers who must also be actual  
> operators!
>
> 73 - Steve WB6RSE

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Re: [Elecraft] Spotting DX

[David M. Elliott]

Paul,

Others have suggested unlinking the VFOs and this is necessary but not  
really sufficient.  It all depends on the dx operators.  Those at K4M  
seem to listen on the same frequency long enough for you to find them  
and tailgate the previous station.  On the other hand, the Glorioso  
operators mostly moved randomly over a large frequency range after  
every QSO.  Impossible to tailgate.  Pick a frequency near the middle  
of their listening range and just park there.  It takes a  
frustratingly long time but it will work eventually assuming that your  
signal is strong enough for them to hear it over the noise.

If you don't have the sub receiver, it makes this a lot easier.  I  
consider it a necessity.

73 de W6BK


On Oct 15, 2009, at 6:19 AM, Paul wrote:

> I've only had my K3 on the air for a couple days...trying to figure  
> out all the bells and whistles.
>
> Here's my problem:
>
> K4M (Midway DXpedition) is transmitting on let's say, 7.004  
> listening up 25.
>
> So I go SPLIT, tune VFO B up to about 7.020. Now I want to spot the  
> guy he's working and transmit there right afterward.
> I'm looking for the guy, I hit REV and listen. I don't hear him, so  
> I want to tune up or down and find him. But when I turn VFO A's knob  
> (which is showing my Xmit frequency, the VFO B display (K4M's run  
> freq) also changes, so when I drop REV I'm no longer on his 7.004  
> frequency.
>
> How are you supposed to do this? Is there an option that ties them  
> together somewhere? LOCK is off.
>
> I used the SUB receiver, and then I can listen to my xmit freq in  
> one ear, but that doesn't seem necessary.
>
> Paul
> WY7I
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP red light coming on at max load

[David M. Elliott]

Interesting.

What exactly is a DSP red LED?
3.41

73 de W6BK


under these conditions, I get no red LED and no apparent problems.


On Oct 14, 2009, at 6:16 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> It's official: we're running out of DSP cycles not just during NR on/
> off but also under worst-case load.
>
> I get a continuous DSP red LED and distorted audio (with a buzz) under
> the following conditions:
>
>   CW
>   CWT on
>   NR on, set to F1-x
>   DSP NB on, any setting
>   FIR IF filter (WIDTH > 500 Hz)
>
> Turning off any of these kills the red LED.
>
> I also get a red LED when turning NR on/off even if the DSP is not
> turned on.
>
> So I need a workaround until you get back. One thing I could do is
> defeat the CW decoder (and CWT) if WIDTH is set > 500 Hz. Other ideas?
>
> tnx
> W
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - computer communications

[David M. Elliott]

While admittedly draconian, my solution to this problem was to dump  
Logic 8 and its PC platform and use MacLoggerDX on a Mac.  No further  
problems.

73 de W6BK


On Oct 14, 2009, at 5:16 PM, Phil and Christina wrote:

> I use Logic 8 as a logging program, and it has communicated fine  
> over a
> serial port with my K3 (s/n 1826).  Today a windstorm dropped a tree  
> across
> a power line, and the power surged on and off several times before  
> going off
> completely.  The computer is a Dell laptop in a docking station.  The
> computer is powered through a UPS.  My K3 is powered by a stout Astron
> RS-35M linear supply (that is not on the UPS).
>
> I don't know if there is a causal agent at work, but now I have
> communications issues.  If I turn the radio on and launch Logic 8, the
> computer and radio seem to communicate OK at first.  Then after  
> maybe 5 to
> 10 minutes, the computer puts up a message that the link has been  
> lost and
> the communications stops (no frequency updating, etc.).  If I close  
> and
> reopen Logic 8, they communicate for a bit before the message comes  
> back.
>
> Any suggestions?  Thank you.
>
> 73,
>
> Phil, NS7P
>
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Re: [Elecraft] MCU 3.30 DSP 2.26 and Loud Noises

[David M. Elliott]

Lyle,

Most of us understand that we are beta testers and what our  
responsibilities in that role are.

We appreciate what you are doing and I will repeat again that the new  
NR function is awesome -- better than anything else out there by a lot.

We are all anxious to help solve the noise problem.

In my case, the noise blast was preceded by a period of time (several  
minutes) when the volume control did not work.  I had it turned to  
minimum and could still hear the signals at normal volume.  When I  
tried to fix that by twiddling the volume control and/or adjusting the  
NR settings, the noise blast happened.

Thanks again for working on the holiday weekend.

73 de W6BK


On Sep 7, 2009, at 8:41 AM, Lyle Johnson wrote:

> If anyone experiences a "loud noise blast" from your K3 when running  
> the
> latest Beta code, it would help us immensely if you could supply the
> following information:
>
>
> 1) Was NR in use?
>
> 2) If so, what was the NR setting (NR ADJ value)
>
> 3) Does the noise go away if NR is turned off?
>
> 4) What were your AGC Threshold and Slope settings? (CONFIG:AGC THR  
> and
> CONFIG AGC SLP)
>
> 5) Band, mode, roofing filter?
>
>
> Please accept my apologies for this.  Believe me, I *want* to find the
> gremlin! Why else would I be asking about this on a holiday weekend?
>
> Thank you for your patience with helping test this K3 Beta code,
>
> Lyle KK7P
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 huge noise

[DAVID M. Elliott]

Lyle hasn't got it yet!!

Firmware 3.30 -- using NR (3-4) on SSB (14.178), first the volume  
control did not work then after a little while the K3 goes to full  
volume and only turning it off gets rid of the problem.

THIS IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM!!!  Hearing loss could result.  Please got  
on this ASAP.

73 de W6BK


On Aug 30, 2009, at 10:08 PM, Eric Swartz -WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

> Lyle just figured this out and corrected a typo in the dsp code. We
> should have a new beta shortly - Hopefully before end of Monday.
>
> (This is why we release beta test versions.  ;-)
>
> 73, Eric
>
>
> mark roz wrote:
>> Almost lost my hearing.
>> Loaded 3.27A. NR engaged. F1-1. VFO A CW on 40m. VFO B SSB 40m. AGC  
>> ON. Width 250Hz cw. 2.7 ssb.
>> Now switched from CW to SSB portion of 40m by pushing A/B -  
>> horrible noise of very high
>> amplitude  on speaker or headphones. Turned down the volume to min.  
>> and in few few seconds
>> it stopped. Than again the same thing happened 70% of the time.
>> This only happens if NR is engaged on A and B VFO and while  
>> switching from A to B.
>> Just did it again-now on the internal speaker. Wow!! it is loud.  
>> Will not use NR for now.
>> Anybody else can duplicate this??
>>
>> Beside that I like my new K3 a lot. This is my second K3.
>> Mark wq7x
>>
>>
>>
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>
> -- 
>
> _..._
>
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[Elecraft] no asterisk on TX EQ when using ESSB

[DAVID M. Elliott]

For the K3 (sn 1740, firmware 3.25), the manual says that there is a  
separate set of transmit EQ settings for ESSB indicated by TX EQ  
changing to TX*EQ.  This does not happen.  It appears that there is no  
separate TX EQ setting for ESSB.  Am I doing something wrong? 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for Linux experts

[David M. Katinsky]

My *guess* is to change the printcap entry so that sh=true. I haven;t
"played" with this kind of thing in a long time, but here's a relevant piece
of man page (from FreeBSD) showing the default value.

 sh bool  false  suppress printing of burst
 page header


remote:\
:cm=lpdfilter method=raw color=yes:\
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:\
:sd=/var/spool/lpd/remote:\
:lf=/var/spool/lpd/remote/log:\
:af=/var/spool/lpd/remote/acct:\
:ar:force_localhost@:\
:tr=:cl:sh=true:sf:

-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
N2RDT



> From: Martin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: Martin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 19:10:52 +0100
> To: 
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for Linux experts
> 
> Hello elecrafters,
> sorry for off topic bandwidth:
> 
> Have a problem when printing via Windows-Client -> Samba/Linux ->
> Printserver.
> 
> After printing, an additional page with the owner of the printjob and
> some other details on it is printed out.
> 
> How can i switch this off?
> 
> Suse Linux 8.0  (the culprit)
> Printserver SMC ABR 7004  (not of any importance, but...)
> 
> /etc/printcap :
> 
> remote:\
> :cm=lpdfilter method=raw color=yes:\
> :[EMAIL PROTECTED]:\
> :sd=/var/spool/lpd/remote:\
> :lf=/var/spool/lpd/remote/log:\
> :af=/var/spool/lpd/remote/acct:\
> :ar:force_localhost@:\
> :tr=:cl:sh:sf:
> 
> 
>   
> 
> -- 
> Best regards,
>  Martin
> K2 #2706  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP NR on SSB

[David M. Katinsky]

Thanks, I'll have to go back and re-check the AGC. The radio is just great,
save for SSB w/NR. I don't have a lot of experience with other rigs, so I
appreciate the feedback that I can probably make it better.

73
N2RDT

-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2005 15:47:55 -0500
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Re: [Elecraft] DSP NR on SSB
> 
> Dave - 
> I recently installed the DSP and do not find that it sounds as if it is
> through a pillow. This particular K2 has the best amplification and audio of
> the 3 I have had - by FAR due to I believe some really judicious adjusting of
> the AGC etc per all the discussions on the archive. I wonder if double
> checking to make sure all audio potential etc etc is totally tweaked BEFORE
> installing the DSP will improve the muffled effect you are getting. I find the
> least degradation of the sound I've heard based on in shack comps with
> 7565ProII DSP and SCG's DSP and consequently very usable. Just my thoughts...
> 73/Tim NZ7C 
> 
> From: "David M. Katinsky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2005/02/07 Mon PM 03:29:37 EST
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,  
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Audio Filter Kit?
> 
> I have yet to find settings where I can use the DSP NR on SSB; it sounds
> like I'm listening through a pillow. Works great, otherwise!
> 
> 73,
> 
> David
> N2RDT
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Which Audio Filter Kit?

[David M. Katinsky]

I have yet to find settings where I can use the DSP NR on SSB; it sounds
like I'm listening through a pillow. Works great, otherwise!

73,

David
N2RDT

-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2005 15:24:28 -0500
> To: 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Audio Filter Kit?
> 
> The following is only my opinion...
> 
> I had the KAF2 and then built the KDSP2. The denoiser is ok, but I found that
> the DSP filters made the rig hard to listen to. This is more pronounced on
> SSB. The auto-notch was helpful, but it didn't make up for the irritating
> quality of the DSP filters. I tried all sorts of settings and just never
> thought it sounded right. I re-installed the KAF2 and I'm happier now. It's
> not perfect, but it doesn't distract from the QSO.
> 
> If it makes any difference, I have had (and still have one) rigs with DSP from
> other manufacturers. I haven't been thrilled by any of them. My favorite
> filter is still an old Datong FL-3!
> 
> So that's my take on it. I know lots of folks are happy with DSP. I just think
> it makes everything sound like a cheap cell phone.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Lonnie
> NY2LJ
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] calibrating 4 Mhz oscillator...

[David M. Katinsky]

I am admittedly a novice at calibration, and the closest I was able to get
was about 20Hz (.02) using the "new" procedure. This is better than I
managed with the older procedure, though, and much easier.

-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


> From: JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:51:05 -0400
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] calibrating 4 Mhz oscillator...
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I follow carefully the new document regarding the calibration of the 4
> Mhz oscillator, and I can find that after each completed tasks, I have
> always a few cycle different...
> 
> Example: before doing the tuning procedure, 14.150.12 was correct
> instead of 14.150.00, so 120 Hz offset...
> 
> I did the application note entirely, and after I should tune to
> 14.150.03 to have the correct frequency... I always have a 0.03 or 0.02
> difference
> 
> Is it a normal behavior ? Maybe I'm a little bit to clumsy about
> calibrating my K2 ;-)
> 
> 73
> 
> ===
> Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ
> Elecraft K2 #4130
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Club d'Astronomie Amateur de Sherbrooke
> Club Radio Amateur de l'Estrie
> 
> Mon site web personnel : http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard
> ===
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency Calibration

[David M. Katinsky]

I was wondering if it should be possible to tone match using the SPOT
feature on CW against a transmission from my KX1 which my frequency counter
claims is accurate...

-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


> From: Hisashi T Fujinaka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2004 14:21:40 -0700 (PDT)
> To: Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net, "Linden,  Mike (BRC-Hes)"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency Calibration
> 
> Speaking of zero beating, why not get an AM receiver tuned to WWV and
> zero beat the tone from the AM receiver to the SSB receiver? That way
> you can get within fractions of 1 Hz and it's a lot easier than watching
> a computer screen.
> 
> I found that I couldn't get the K2 spot on because of the calibration
> procedure. I got it darn close, though.
> 
> On Wed, 7 Jul 2004, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> 
>> Michael and all,
>> 
>> Yes, because the K2 has independent BFO adjustments for USB and LSB you must
>> know that both BFOs have been properly set before you can do 'tone matching'
>> to determine the correct dial setting.  It IS a good method to verify that
>> one has achieved correct calibration, but if the dial calibration is
>> suspect, attempting to get it correct by matching the LSB/USB tones may
>> prove to be an exercise in frustration.
>> 
>> If you need to set WWV right on (as when using it to set the reference
>> oscillator with the N6KR method), I recommend using Spectrogram to view the
>> frequency of the transmitted tones - they will alternate between 500 and 600
>> Hz in alternate minutes.  See the dial calibration article on my webpage
>> www.qsl.net/w3fpr for more detailed information.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> 
>>>   I've found that using the frequency calibration method in which you
>> switch
>>> between LSB/USB when monitoring the tone (tuning for the point at which
>>> there is the least difference in the WWV tone between LSB and USB) on WWV
>> at
>>> 15 or 20 MHz works very well on my Kenwood TS-930S. Given the fact that
>> the
>>> K2 has independent BFO settings for LSB/USB, can this method be accurately
>>> used to check the K2's display frequency against WWV?
>>> 
>>>   Thanks, Michael N9BDF
> 
> -- 
> Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

[David M. Katinsky]

This was the step where I thought to myself that surely they must be joking
:-). My recollection is that I used your last method with a generous ball of
solder on the tip of the iron.


-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
N2RDT


> From: Eric Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 11:52:05 -0400
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question
> 
> I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the lugs
> of the stereo plug.  Does anyone have advice about how to best carry that
> out?  
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the ways I can imagine doing it:
> 
> Thread them through the holes in the lugs (with tweezers), solder, and then
> cut off the excess?
> 
> Cut them off first so they can be inserted (just) into the holes in the lugs
> (using tweezers), and then solder?
> 
> Bend them so they are in contact with the lugs (but not actually going
> through the holes) solder them, and then cut off the excess?
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to benefit from everyone's experience before doing the try try
> again.
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Eric
> 
> N0HHS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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