Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem with SWR bridge - High SWR

2013-10-22 Thread Stan AE7UT
Thanks for all the help.
Got it working FB and made my first contact tonight.

73
Stan AE7UT



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[Elecraft] KPA100 problem with SWR bridge - High SWR

2013-10-20 Thread Stan AE7UT
I'm building a KPA100 and am having trouble with the SWR bridge adjustment.
I'm getting high swr on the lower bands and can't get 1:1 on even the upper
bands.
160  9.9:1
809.9:1
409.9:1
309.5:1
206.7:1
175.0:1
154.5:1
124.0:2
103.7:1
(I know 9.9 is the highest it will show and it's probably higher on some)

I've checked T4 and it seems to be working properly.  The toroid was build
by the
toroid guy.  The diodes all seem to be in the proper orientation and
working.

Can anyone point me in the next step in figuring this one out?

Thanks
Stan AE7UT



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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Mark Flavin




Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was getting 
some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it while I had 
it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it in high power, 
even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked all the parts 
values twice and did the calibration again including the C6 adjust, the r26 and 
27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they weren't shorted or 
anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The voltages seem to be 
fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd is as soon as I hit the 
key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the keying.  A dot gives a short 
fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan activation.  Eventually it comes on 
and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean 
it comes on almost instantly.  I have checked the archives and am starting to 
suspect the finals.  I put on new pads on the transisto
 rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works fine at 
10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able to find it.  
Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go through that work 
again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mark,

Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the 
same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 
30 minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room 
temperature in degC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:



 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was getting 
 some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it while I 
 had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it in high 
 power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked all the 
 parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6 adjust, the 
 r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they weren't 
 shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The voltages 
 seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd is as soon 
 as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the keying.  A dot 
 gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan activation.  
 Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even responds to 
 my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have checked the 
 archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new pads on the 
 transis
 to
   rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works fine 
 at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able to find 
 it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go through 
 that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Mark Flavin
Yeah. I did that too.  Im dreading changing the finals lol

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

-Original message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Flavin markf1...@hotmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 17:45:04 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the  
same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 30  
minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room  
temperature in degC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:



 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was  
getting some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it  
while I had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it  
in high power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked  
all the parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6  
adjust, the r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they  
weren't shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The  
voltages seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd  
is as soon as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the  
keying.  A dot gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan  
activation.  Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even  
responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have  
checked the archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new  
pads on the transisto
   rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works  
fine at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able  
to find it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go  
through that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF  



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mark,

I don't think the finals are the problem.  I would check Q3 for good 
soldering and the value and soldering of R5 - make certain you used the 
1k trimmer at R6 rather than the 100k trimmers for R26 and R27.
The soldering at U1 pin 5 should also be checked, and be certain U1 pin 
5 is not bent under the socket or sticking out the side.  Make certain 
there is 5 volts on one end of R5 - if not, find out why.

The temperature of the heatsink is sensed by the conduction through Q3 
from the base to the emitter (and collector),  that resulting voltage is 
sent to U1 pin 5 for calculation by the firmware  - it has nothing to do 
with the actual PA transistors, just the temperature of the heatsink at 
the Q3 location.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 1:04 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Yeah. I did that too.  Im dreading changing the finals lol

 T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

 -Original message-
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Mark Flavinmarkf1...@hotmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 17:45:04 GMT+00:00
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

 Mark,

 Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the
 same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

 Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 30
 minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room
 temperature in degC.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:


 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was
 getting some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it
 while I had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it
 in high power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked
 all the parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6
 adjust, the r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they
 weren't shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The
 voltages seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd
 is as soon as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the
 keying.  A dot gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan
 activation.  Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even
 responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have
 checked the archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new
 pads on the transisto
rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works
 fine at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able
 to find it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go
 through that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF
 


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Mark Flavin
Thanks Don.  This thing worked before I did the upg kit.  I will check that  
again but I didn't really touch those.  Perhaps I will remove the   Q3 and  
check that area.  Best I can tell the upgrade didn't really address any of  
that but I don't know.  The finals don't get hot at all.  I even took the  
heatsink off to make sure there were no shorts or anything and its the same.  
  The weird thing is how the fan starts and stops as I key even at low (11  
to 15 watts) power.  I just hope its not the finals.  I don't think so  
either but I want to try everything else first.  Could Q3 just be too  
sensitive due to something.  I could try changing it I suppose.

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

-Original message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Flavin markf1...@hotmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 19:00:07 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

I don't think the finals are the problem.  I would check Q3 for good  
soldering and the value and soldering of R5 - make certain you used the 1k  
trimmer at R6 rather than the 100k trimmers for R26 and R27.
The soldering at U1 pin 5 should also be checked, and be certain U1 pin 5 is  
not bent under the socket or sticking out the side.  Make certain there is 5  
volts on one end of R5 - if not, find out why.

The temperature of the heatsink is sensed by the conduction through Q3 from  
the base to the emitter (and collector),  that resulting voltage is sent to  
U1 pin 5 for calculation by the firmware  - it has nothing to do with the  
actual PA transistors, just the temperature of the heatsink at the Q3  
location.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 1:04 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Yeah. I did that too.  Im dreading changing the finals lol

 T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

 -Original message-
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Mark Flavinmarkf1...@hotmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 17:45:04 GMT+00:00
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

 Mark,

 Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the
 same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

 Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 30
 minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room
 temperature in degC.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:


 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was
 getting some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it
 while I had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it
 in high power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have  
checked
 all the parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6
 adjust, the r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure  
they
 weren't shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.   
The
 voltages seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats  
wierd
 is as soon as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the
 keying.  A dot gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan
 activation.  Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan  
even
 responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have
 checked the archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new
 pads on the transisto
rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works
 fine at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able
 to find it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go
 through that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF
 


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mark,

If there was a marginal solder connection, it may have worked but with 
the movement involved with the upgrade, it may have finally failed.

Yes, investigate those components that I mentioned.  If the temperature 
is not being sensed, the fan will be turned on and off by the firmware 
because the firmware is not getting correct information about the actual 
temperature.

Are the thermal pads under Q3 and Q4 in good shape?  It may be worth 
replacing them if there is any question.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 2:24 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Thanks Don.  This thing worked before I did the upg kit.  I will check that
 again but I didn't really touch those.  Perhaps I will remove the   Q3 and
 check that area.  Best I can tell the upgrade didn't really address any of
 that but I don't know.  The finals don't get hot at all.  I even took the
 heatsink off to make sure there were no shorts or anything and its the same.
The weird thing is how the fan starts and stops as I key even at low (11
 to 15 watts) power.  I just hope its not the finals.  I don't think so
 either but I want to try everything else first.  Could Q3 just be too
 sensitive due to something.  I could try changing it I suppose.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2011-11-26 Thread Mark Flavin
Ok. I will do that.  Anything is worth a try

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

-Original message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Flavin markf1...@hotmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 20:05:50 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

If there was a marginal solder connection, it may have worked but with the  
movement involved with the upgrade, it may have finally failed.

Yes, investigate those components that I mentioned.  If the temperature is  
not being sensed, the fan will be turned on and off by the firmware because  
the firmware is not getting correct information about the actual  
temperature.

Are the thermal pads under Q3 and Q4 in good shape?  It may be worth  
replacing them if there is any question.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 2:24 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Thanks Don.  This thing worked before I did the upg kit.  I will check  
that
 again but I didn't really touch those.  Perhaps I will remove the   Q3 and
 check that area.  Best I can tell the upgrade didn't really address any of
 that but I don't know.  The finals don't get hot at all.  I even took the
 heatsink off to make sure there were no shorts or anything and its the  
same.
The weird thing is how the fan starts and stops as I key even at low  
(11
 to 15 watts) power.  I just hope its not the finals.  I don't think so
 either but I want to try everything else first.  Could Q3 just be too
 sensitive due to something.  I could try changing it I suppose.


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[Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2010-05-27 Thread Luca Valer
Hello from north Italy.
I have a K2 sn 6822.
With my 1nd KPA100 it's ok (Rev F Oct 2009)
With my 2nd KPA100 (Rev B June 2003) , I have a little problem.

If  11 WATT work fine.

If  11 WATT, I have HI CUR on display, for a bit moment, 5 watt on 
display is reality abt 15 watt

Need I upgrade my KPA100 ?
Let me konw
Tnx vy 73
in3acv, Luva


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2010-05-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Luca,

I believe you also have a problem at 11 watts.  If you check the actual 
power I believe you will find it is always high (100 watts) at any 
setting of the power control above 11 watts.

The problem is that the power output from the KPA100 is not being 
reported to the base K2 microprocessor.  Yes, this also happens at low 
power.  The result is that the microprocessor detects no power output 
and ramps up the drive to full in an attempt to obtain more power.

The most likely problem source is that the diodes D16 and D17 have been 
damaged - probable cause is a lightning (or rain or wind or snow) 
static.  The normal recommendation is to remove the antenna when not in 
use.  Other possible failure points are U5 and U6 in the KPA100.

If you do find the diodes damaged, it may be a wise step to put a 100 
uHy inductor in your antenna system, located near the K2.  Inside an 
antenna switch or relay box is one possibility, but lacking that, put 
the inductor inside the barrel of a PL-259 connector (one inductor lead 
to the center conductor, the other to the shell), then connect that 
assembly to the feedline using a coax TEE adapter.  I will not guarantee 
that the added inductor will prevent all future diode failures, but it 
will reduce the probability of failure.

73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

Luca Valer wrote:
 Hello from north Italy.
 I have a K2 sn 6822.
 With my 1nd KPA100 it's ok (Rev F Oct 2009)
 With my 2nd KPA100 (Rev B June 2003) , I have a little problem.

 If  11 WATT work fine.

 If  11 WATT, I have HI CUR on display, for a bit moment, 5 watt on 
 display is reality abt 15 watt

 Need I upgrade my KPA100 ?
 Let me konw
 Tnx vy 73
 in3acv, Luva


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem / Update

2009-12-17 Thread n0jrn
OK,my new MAX1406's came in today.

I really made a point to check out every possible cause for the previous 
chip issues.

Installed the new MAX1406 and now have 122.1 V's at the junction of C77 and 
R11.   Also have a -22.4 V's at pin 8 of U4.

So,   the new chip fixed this issue

Now to move on to the next challenge.

Thanks to everybody for your suggestions and support.

73JerryN0JRN
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
To: n0jrn n0...@mchsi.com
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem


 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to produce 
 a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and 
 vice-versa.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread n0jrn
Good Morning Don / Andrew:

I very much appreciate both your suggestions.

DON:I do have the KPA100UPKT installed and R4 is 100K.   So,  I 
will lift D8 and see what results I get.

BUT  first,   I'll check the caps in the rectifier section as Andrew 
suggests to make sure all is well there.

Now to call Mouser and get another MAX1406 on the way

Thanks guys and I'll keep you up on how things work out.

72JerryN0JRN
On 12/14/2009 6:22:37 AM, Don Wilhelm (d...@w3fpr.com) wrote:
 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to
 produce a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and
 vice-versa.

 Actually -28 volts is a bit much and does exceed the maximum speced
 voltage for the chip.  -12 volts is more than sufficient and even -5
 volts is OK, so lowering the voltage a bit will help with the life of
 the chip.
 Do you have the KPA100UPKT installed (look for blue toroid cores at L16
 and RFC1)?  If installed, change R4 to 100k if it is not already.
 If R4 is already 100k or you have red toroid cores at L15 and L16,
 remove D8 to drop the negative voltage to about half its present value.

 The KPA100 amplifier will function fine without U4 installed, but you
 will not be able to use the RS-232 portion of the AUX I//O connector.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread n0jrn
Don:

Just to clarify !

The -28V's I'm seeing at pin 8 of U4 is measured without the IC installed.

Lets say for the sake of conversation that I install a good MAX1406 and it 
draws on the rectifier circuit a minimal amount.

Would / could that bring the -28V's back into specs for this chip???.   ( I 
have to figure Wayne designed the circuit taking this draw into 
consideration )

OR  is my -28V's so abnormal that I need to be looking at other issues 
in my rectifier pack to bring this negative voltage back into spec ???

Could the negative voltage I'm getting be responsible for damaging this chip 
???

I have 2 new chips coming from Mouser.   I'm not installing them until I'm 
satisfied that I've checked and double checked   EVERYTHING   involved.

Thanks again and happy holidays to the group:

72 Jerry N0JRN
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
To: n0jrn n0...@mchsi.com
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem


 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to produce 
 a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and 
 vice-versa.

 Actually -28 volts is a bit much and does exceed the maximum speced 
 voltage for the chip.  -12 volts is more than sufficient and even -5

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

That answer depends on which set of specifications you want to believe.

I am saying that the Absolute Maximum Specification for the Maxim 
MAX1406 for Vss (pin 8) is -14 volts - you can check the data sheet for 
yourself.  Yes, many KPA100s exceed that value - note that the KPA100 DC 
voltage chart lists the nominal voltage at U4 pin 8 at -22 volts.
Whether that is a cause for failure of the chip is reason for 
speculation, there is not enough data to say yeah or nay. .
What I have offered is a way to reduce the Vss voltage to the MAX1406 
without also reducing the bias voltage to the KPA100 T/R switch.  That 
involves removing D8, and D8 alone.  The data sheet Electrical 
Characteristics current for pin 8 (Iss) is typical 185 uA with a maximum 
of 500 uA. for a Vss of -13.2 volts Minimum to -10.8 Maximum - that is 
not a lot of current draw on that pin.

I am stating that a Vss (U4 pin 8) voltage less than -14 volts exceeds 
the Absolute Maximum Voltage rating per the MAX1406 datasheet - nothing 
more and nothing less.

73,
Don W3FPR

n0jrn wrote:
 Don:

 Just to clarify !

 The -28V's I'm seeing at pin 8 of U4 is measured without the IC installed.

 Lets say for the sake of conversation that I install a good MAX1406 and it 
 draws on the rectifier circuit a minimal amount.

 Would / could that bring the -28V's back into specs for this chip???.   ( I 
 have to figure Wayne designed the circuit taking this draw into 
 consideration )

 OR  is my -28V's so abnormal that I need to be looking at other issues 
 in my rectifier pack to bring this negative voltage back into spec ???

 Could the negative voltage I'm getting be responsible for damaging this chip 
 ???

 I have 2 new chips coming from Mouser.   I'm not installing them until I'm 
 satisfied that I've checked and double checked   EVERYTHING   involved.

 Thanks again and happy holidays to the group:

 72 Jerry N0JRN
 - Original Message - 
 From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
 To: n0jrn n0...@mchsi.com
 Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 6:22 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem


   
 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to produce 
 a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and 
 vice-versa.

 Actually -28 volts is a bit much and does exceed the maximum speced 
 voltage for the chip.  -12 volts is more than sufficient and even -5
 

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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 9.0.716 / Virus Database: 270.14.107/2564 - Release Date: 12/14/09 
 02:37:00

   
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[Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-13 Thread n0jrn
Gang: I need some advise please.

I'm trying to finish my KPA100 but I can't seem to get beyond voltage tests 
on page 46 of the manual.

I should be getting 90 to 150 V's at the junction of C77  R11 but only 
getting 47 volts.

I should be getting -5 to -25 V's at pin 8 of U4 BUT   I'm only 
seeing -4.1.

I did some research in the archives and came up with a few ideas.Checked 
D1 - D8 and T3 pads.  All diodes pass continuity test and T3 seems fine and 
shows zero resistance between pads.

Checking the schematics prompted me to lift the anode of D7 to remove U4. 
In doing this,  the voltage at the junction of R11 came up into spec and 
shows 150 V's.

This means that U4 is drawing the circuit down.  SO,   I sent Elecraft an 
e-mail and Gary sent me a new MAX1406.  Figured I would install it 
and all would be good.NOT !

After installing the new U4,I rechecked voltage at R11 and found it is 
still just 47 V's.

I've double checked orientation of U4,  and it's fine.  I was very careful 
to observe anti static procedures when installing the new chip.   SO,   I'm 
confused and not sure where to go from here.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks  72:   Jerry   N0JRN 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

That means U4 is not the problem, the problem is somewhere in the 
rectifier stack and goes away when you lift the anode of D7.

Check both D7 and D8 for proper orientation (use the parts placement 
diagram since the board silkscreen is covered).  Check for a solder 
bridge across the leads of C38.  Be certain C35 is soldered properly.
If you lift the anode of D7 and place a 0.1 uF capacitor from the 
flying lead of D7 to ground, what is the voltage at the D7 anode?

I know that did not fully identify the failure point, but hopefully it 
gives you some clues.

73,
Don W3FPR

n0jrn wrote:
 Gang: I need some advise please.

 I'm trying to finish my KPA100 but I can't seem to get beyond voltage tests 
 on page 46 of the manual.

 I should be getting 90 to 150 V's at the junction of C77  R11 but only 
 getting 47 volts.

 I should be getting -5 to -25 V's at pin 8 of U4 BUT   I'm only 
 seeing -4.1.

 I did some research in the archives and came up with a few ideas.Checked 
 D1 - D8 and T3 pads.  All diodes pass continuity test and T3 seems fine and 
 shows zero resistance between pads.

 Checking the schematics prompted me to lift the anode of D7 to remove U4. 
 In doing this,  the voltage at the junction of R11 came up into spec and 
 shows 150 V's.

 This means that U4 is drawing the circuit down.  SO,   I sent Elecraft an 
 e-mail and Gary sent me a new MAX1406.  Figured I would install it 
 and all would be good.NOT !

 After installing the new U4,I rechecked voltage at R11 and found it is 
 still just 47 V's.

 I've double checked orientation of U4,  and it's fine.  I was very careful 
 to observe anti static procedures when installing the new chip.   SO,   I'm 
 confused and not sure where to go from here.

 Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 Thanks  72:   Jerry   N0JRN 

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2007-10-26 Thread Jim Stoneback

Dealing with the last unresolved problem with my K2/100:

When using the K2/KPA100 on CW, regardless of power setting (above 11 watts, 
that is), the power output fluctuates above the set power level by about 
10%.  With the power setting at 90 watts, the output will alternate between 
about 98 and 88 watts, at about one cycle per 2 seconds.  At 30 watts, its 
+/- about 4 watts, etc. Using a dummy load.  It will do this indefinitely.


All other aspects of the KPA100 operation are normal.  With PA turned OFF in 
the menu, the barefoot K2 does not exhibit this power fluctuation.  Any 
suggestions on what to look at?


73

Jim Stoneback
K4AXF
Drake SW8
K2.ssb.100.at sn 6194
K2.at sn 6263 (under construction)

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem; scratched thermal pads OK

2006-06-13 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Minor scratches are OK. This material melts and fills the gaps between 
the PA transistors and the heatsink as the devices heat up the first 
couple of times. (That is one of the reasons we require tightening of 
the transistor mounting screws after a initial short period of use.)


73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Elecraft
---

Harvey Howell wrote:
While working on the amp I noticed that the black coatings on the 
thermal pads seem to scratch easily. Mine have a couple of minor 
scratches that go thru the black. Does this reduce their ability to 
conduct heat away? Should I replace them? Thanks.



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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2006-06-11 Thread Harvey Howell
Hello everyone. I almost made it to the finish line with my K2. I'm 
encountering a problem with the KPA100 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment (C1). I have 
everything hooked up correctly as far as I can determine. I set the power knob 
for 5.0 W. Enter tune mode and adjust C1 to get  1.0-1 SWR on the K2 display. 
The best I can achieve is 3.6w and  3.4-1 SWR. When the display reads this 
value my SX-200 power meter indicates about 18 watts out!! Also some of the 
voltages read a little high:

D13 cathode should be 90 to 150v : reads 158v.
U4 (MAX 1406) pin 8 should be -5 to -25v : reads -28v

Test Equipment Used: DL-1 and MFJ dummy loads.
  SX-200 power meter.

I have given the board a close visual inspection and nothing looks bad. The red 
and green leads on T4 go to the correct pads. Any ideas? Thanks very much.

Harvey KN6VPNo virus found in this outgoing message.
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2006-06-11 Thread Don Wilhelm
Harvey,

At first glance it would seem like there is something awry with your
wattmeter section of the KPA100.  Check the T4 windings again and check
carefully to be certain everything is well soldered with no solder bridges.
Check the diodes for proper orientation, then try again to balance the
wattmeter bridge.  If you do not get the trimmer capacitor correct, the
power and SWR indications will be 'funny', so be certain that you have a
good null (use the DVM on the test point).  The capacitor setting is quite
'touchy' so adjust it very slowly waiting for your DVM to settle down with
each small change.

The increased voltages at D13 and U4 pin 8 are to be expected since the
change of R4 to 39k - the voltages in the KPA100 unfortunately have not been
updated to reflect this change.  They are NOT related to your wattmeter
problem.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Hello everyone. I almost made it to the finish line with my K2.
 I'm encountering a problem with the KPA100 SWR Bridge Null
 Adjustment (C1). I have everything hooked up correctly as far as
 I can determine. I set the power knob for 5.0 W. Enter tune mode
 and adjust C1 to get  1.0-1 SWR on the K2 display. The best I can
 achieve is 3.6w and  3.4-1 SWR. When the display reads this value
 my SX-200 power meter indicates about 18 watts out!! Also some of
 the voltages read a little high:

 D13 cathode should be 90 to 150v : reads 158v.
 U4 (MAX 1406) pin 8 should be -5 to -25v : reads -28v

 Test Equipment Used: DL-1 and MFJ dummy loads.
   SX-200 power meter.

 I have given the board a close visual inspection and nothing
 looks bad. The red and green leads on T4 go to the correct pads.
 Any ideas? Thanks very much.

 Harvey KN6VP

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem again

2006-05-23 Thread Chris Hurlbut
Some of you may remember my problem with the KPA100 not being recognized
by the K2 after a little mishap I had.

On the sound advice of a few on this list, I purchased a new 78L05 (U3),
EL5146 (U6) and a MAX1406 (U4).  I just swapped all of these out, and am
getting 5V in places I should now.  Probably U6 was bad.  The K2 is
still giving me a NO PA PS message with a PS plugged into the KPA100.
In fact, it's the ONLY PS plugged in.  The menu gives me an E12 and an
F1.10 whatever that is.  I did some measurements, and U1 is ok *except*
for these:

Pin 7:  .8v (Book says 4V with note 2, depends on PS voltage)
Pin 10: 2.25v (book says 2.4v, seems a *little* fishy?)
Pins 12, 13, 14: all 0.0v, book says 0.5V
Pin 26: 5v.  Book says 0v??  I checked it 3 times to see if I counted
wrong, but nope, that's the pin.  

So my question... is U1 bad, or is something that's feeding U1 bad??
Could it be something on the K2 control board?

Any ideas appreciated!
-Chris KL9A


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[Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2005-07-19 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi all,
In my previous email I had described that I had my kpa100 working in the K2
enclosure but that it had died when I tried to install it in the EC2 case.
I was getting info 080 and Lyle Johnson had suggested a problem with the
aux bus line.
I have refined search down to the 5 V line that supplies the max 1406.  When
I remove U1 on the kpa100 board I get a dead short at pin 1 of U1.  This
could mean that the 5 V regulator is bad but there are other components
connected to this line and any one of these components could be defective
(U3, U4, C23, C89, U6, etc).

I am now faced with developing a procedure to isolate the bad part.  I have
already inspected the board for shorts and do not see any.  The fact that
the kpa100 worked before leads me to believe that a component may have
shorted itself out.

I could destructively remove each component until the short disappeared but
then I would need to replace possibly a lot of parts.  The other option
would be to isolate each part one at a time by cutting traces.  Once the
part was deemed OK, I would have to patch the trace and go on to the next
part.  I would end up with a lot of patched traces.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve, W2MY

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2005-07-19 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Steve,

First remove the regulator which you suspect anyway.  If that does not
remove the short, then start removing one component at a time until you find
it.  A good de-soldering tool makes the task a lot easier, and if the price
of the potential parts replacement is high, perhaps it is time to invest in
a de-soldering tool - you won't be sorry, and you can remove parts
non-destructively in most cases.

If you do not have a de-soldering tool, the easiest is to cut traces - start
by cutting a trace so it divides the suspect  components into 2 equal
groups, find out which half the short remains in and divide that section
into 2 groups again - you don't have to make as many cuts, and you will find
it more quickly.

I don't know of an easier method unless you happen to spot a solder bridge
along the way.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
.  When
 I remove U1 on the kpa100 board I get a dead short at pin 1 of U1.  This
 could mean that the 5 V regulator is bad but there are other components
 connected to this line and any one of these components could be defective
 (U3, U4, C23, C89, U6, etc).

 I am now faced with developing a procedure to isolate the bad
 part.  I have
 already inspected the board for shorts and do not see any.  The fact that
 the kpa100 worked before leads me to believe that a component may have
 shorted itself out.

 I could destructively remove each component until the short
 disappeared but
 then I would need to replace possibly a lot of parts.  The other option
 would be to isolate each part one at a time by cutting traces.  Once the
 part was deemed OK, I would have to patch the trace and go on to the next
 part.  I would end up with a lot of patched traces.

 Any suggestions?

 Thanks,
 Steve, W2MY

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem?

2005-04-21 Thread Larry Dodson
I am not an experienced builder, but having purchased a ready built K2, I 
decided that the experience of building a KPA100 would be good for me.  And 
everything has gone pretty well until I got to page 41 of the manual and 
conducted the tests.  Most (J3 lead, Q1 and Q2, and J2) are fine and the 
readings are as expected.  However, Q9 and D13  readings should be over 10K and 
I am getting 15Megs on my DMM, which is an older digital type.  Granted, 15M is 
greater than 10K.  Q9 (MOSFET) and D13 (Diode) appear OK and I have worked 
through the schematic, taking resistance checks along the way,  and everything 
appears OK.  I am thinking that it could be my DMM and any thoughts from the 
group would be appreciated.  Larry (G0IKE)
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FW: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem?

2005-04-21 Thread Dan Barker
You are absolutely right. 15M is  10K. Reverse the meter leads, and maybe
you'll see the 8M  10K too!

Carry on!

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
Granted, 15M is greater than 10K.
/snip

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[Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2005-03-15 Thread David Honey
I've been testing the KPA100 that I've just finished building and have 
found a problem.

The symptoms are a little weird, so bear with me.

On 40m and 80m SSB, once the K2 PWR control is set to 11W or over, the
RF output corresponds to peak full power. This seems to be frequency 
dependent
and the audio frequency at which peak power is delivered changes between 
USB and
LSB. When I whistle into the mike, I see full output on a scope and the 
power
indication on the K2 also shows full scale, and the K2/KPA is drawing 
around 20A.
If I turn the power to 10W, I see the expected power level on these two 
bands.
If I turn the PA menu option to OFF, then power delivery throughout the 
power range

0.1 to 15W is as expected.

On these two bands, CW power control is fine with the PA turned on, and 
varies

as expected from 0-10, and then with tha PA on from 11W to 100W+.
On 160m, 30m, 20m, SSB (USB and LSB) power delivery is correct.
I didn't try any bands higher than 20m for this.

So the problem seems to be PA ON only, affecting SSB only (USB and LSB)
and only on  two bands. The base K2 seems fine on these two bands within its
normal  15W range. It appears as if there is a PA ALC/power control problem
on these two bands in SSB mode.

All the resistance checks and voltage checks during construction were fine.
The only ones that were slightly off were the PA transistor base 
resistance check.

I measured 11.6 ohms instead of the 12-18 ohms indicated on my DMM.
All the others were within spec.I figured that 11.6 was within 5% of 12 and
that might be DMM inaccuracy.

Any ideas where to start looking for the problem?


Thanks,
David, M0DHO.

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

I'm still on page 43 in the process and I have now narrowed the problem area. 
You remember, I measured a negative voltage of 0.15V on J3+.

Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the collectors of Qs 1 and 
2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't know where it could come from. Shorting 
the collectors to ground via 1k resistor it takes 3 seconds to eliminate the 
voltage. I measure 0V. Removing the resistor it takes abt. 20 seconds for the 
voltage to go to -0.4V again.

T2-4,5 are ok. The base of the transistors are ok, 0V. The emitters also, 0V. 
The body of T2 also has -0.4V.

Any idea and testing procedures appreciated!

Kind regards


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Gerhard,

That small negative voltage may be coming from the AC ripple on the '90-150
V' supply to the TR switch that is being coupled through the RF chokes and
capacitors into the Q1 and Q2 collector circuit and then being rectified by
the transistors themselves.  If that is the case, it may not be a problem at
all once you connect a +12 volt supply.

Put an RF probe on the cathode of D13 and see how much RF voltage is present
there (it would be at the approximate frequency of X1).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Hi there,

 I'm still on page 43 in the process and I have now narrowed the
 problem area. You remember, I measured a negative voltage of 0.15V on J3+.

 Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the
 collectors of Qs 1 and 2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't
 know where it could come from. Shorting the collectors to ground
 via 1k resistor it takes 3 seconds to eliminate the voltage. I
 measure 0V. Removing the resistor it takes abt. 20 seconds for
 the voltage to go to -0.4V again.

 T2-4,5 are ok. The base of the transistors are ok, 0V. The
 emitters also, 0V. The body of T2 also has -0.4V.

 Any idea and testing procedures appreciated!



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

Did you have a light shining on the PA transistors?  J3+ on my KPA100 
had -0.18V.  Apparently something to do with illumination of the PA's. 
Well noted by others.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: Gerhard Schwanz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 10:42 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements


Hi there,

I'm still on page 43 in the process and I have now narrowed the problem 
area. You remember, I measured a negative voltage of 0.15V on J3+.

Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the collectors of Qs 1 
and 2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't know where it could come from. 
Shorting the collectors to ground via 1k resistor it takes 3 seconds to 
eliminate the voltage. I measure 0V. Removing the resistor it takes abt. 
20 seconds for the voltage to go to -0.4V again.

T2-4,5 are ok. The base of the transistors are ok, 0V. The emitters also, 
0V. The body of T2 also has -0.4V.

Any idea and testing procedures appreciated!

Kind regards


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Well, um, yes.

And I noticed another thing which led me think everything is fine. The
voltage was there, even without power connected to the K2 at all.

All is well now, I neglected the voltage. I will go on air tomorrow for on
air tests. RS232 test is next now, then shield and final assembly.

And thanks to all who helped!!!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


- Original Message -
From: Mike Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Gerhard Schwanz [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new
measurements


 G'day,

 Did you have a light shining on the PA transistors?  J3+ on my KPA100
 had -0.18V.  Apparently something to do with illumination of the PA's.
 Well noted by others.

 Regards,

 Mike VP8NO

 - Original Message -
 From: Gerhard Schwanz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 10:42 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements


 Hi there,

 I'm still on page 43 in the process and I have now narrowed the problem
 area. You remember, I measured a negative voltage of 0.15V on J3+.

 Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the collectors of Qs 1
 and 2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't know where it could come from.
 Shorting the collectors to ground via 1k resistor it takes 3 seconds to
 eliminate the voltage. I measure 0V. Removing the resistor it takes abt.
 20 seconds for the voltage to go to -0.4V again.

 T2-4,5 are ok. The base of the transistors are ok, 0V. The emitters also,
 0V. The body of T2 also has -0.4V.

 Any idea and testing procedures appreciated!

 Kind regards


 Gerhard Schwanz
 DH3FAW
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://www.gs-personal.de


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread Ward Willats
Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the collectors 
of Qs 1 and 2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't know where it 
could come from.



Hi Gerhard:

Dunno if this is related, but I got a small voltage J3 by shining a 
bright light on the final transistors. There is some sort of 
photoelectric effect.


Your numbers are close to what I measured then:

http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-11/msg00574.html


-- Ward


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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2005-01-03 Thread walter renner
Whats a KAP100? Sorry about the typo.
I just put up an 1/2 wave antenna for 160 meters that is 260 feet long and 
center fed with 450 ladder line. When RXing on all bands and moving the PWR 
contorl to 11 watts or more so the relay in the PA switches over to high, I get 
erratic noise in the receiver. If I back the PWR down to QRP, then RX  is OK 
again. I am almost sure that this noise is rectified AM signals within the TR 
switch. Not sure if this can be expected with this switching method or if I 
have a component that's bad.  Most of my antennas are Loops  or match and fed 
with coax, and don't display this condition. Several years ago I had a Ten Tec 
transceiver the experinced the sam problem, I resolved by building a high pass 
fillter and installing it in the receive line and the problem went away. Not 
sure there is room for this in the K2.   Any ideas?
Kurt K0ARO
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