Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I guess since the thread is still alive, and because I use my Elecraft rigs with said tower :) I'll wade in here, because I spent a fair amount of time researching this two years ago before reinstalling my Wilson TT-45, which is very similar. Everyone is right, one way or the other. The tower wind curve I have shows 3 square feet of wind load for a total tower height of 43 feet in a 78 mph wind. Another 50 mph curve supplied with the rotating base is done at 50 mph, and says 12 square feet at a total height of 45 feet. But both curves, as well as the more recent US Tower data, rely on the use of a house bracket in the analysis. A much more recent US Tower doc shows 4.8 square feet of wind load, for 85 MPH 3 second gusts, but with the tower at a height of 21 feet. This was from a California PE analysis, and it also referenced the house bracket. So the answer, "it depends" depends on at least wind speed (or gust) used, what base, the use of a house bracket, height of the mast in the top section, and what the current sq ft numbers for your antenna happen to be, which seem to be changing in some cases :). After crunching some numbers, I decided to limit my use to 34 feet self-supporting with a hex and a rotating base . It's definitely worth doing the math. I'm happy to share PDF's of the reference stuff with anyone that needs it. Scott ka9p (sorry Eric) In a message dated 7/13/2016 5:08:53 P.M. Central Daylight Time, w6vy...@gmail.com writes: Hi Mike, I don't know where the 3 SQ-FT comes from. US Tower does not publish ratings for the MA series any longer. I have had an MA-40 since 1982 and at that time the rating was 10 SQ-FT @ 50 MPH winds fully extended. I have confirmed this with US Tower in the past. I was also told at that time that they do not rate the tower retracted. There have been some new regulations concerning tower ratings in the past couple which is probably why they do not list it now. I have had a 3 Element SteppIR on this tower since 2006. The HRO website still lists the rating at 10 SQ-FT. That being said, I do retract the tower if winds of 50 MPH are predicted or if I am leaving for any length of time. My base is 3 X 3 X 5 which was recommended at that time and I have the drawings for that. I think the 3 SQ is indicating the size of the extended portion which is 3 inches square. Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47 -0700 (MST) From: Mike K2MK To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Terry, I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at 3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2 element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30 mph were forecasted. Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation. The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful I didn't have to any of the work. This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit. With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one. I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you want the link. k2mk at comcast dot net 73, Mike K2MK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I would be interested in the website / picture from anyone on this thread. I was given an older Wilson version of the MA40, and am working on the install now. Any advice or input would be appreciated. Niel WA7SSA Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 13, 2016, at 05:01, Mike K2MK wrote: > > Hi Terry, > > I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator > base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at > 3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2 > element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30 > mph were forecasted. > > Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but > requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up > requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I > would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation. > > The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling > my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could > replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did > for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful > I didn't have to any of the work. > > This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate > equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a > Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery > truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit. > With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and > given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one. > > I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you > want the link. > k2mk at comcast dot net > > 73, > Mike K2MK > > > Terry Brown wrote >> Hello all, >> >> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since >> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am >> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I >> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On >> the >> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam >> and tower date from the time I became a ham. >> >> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, >> Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. >> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is >> amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight >> rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. >> My >> home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my >> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be >> about >> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S >> with >> the tower on the west side of the house. >> >> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a >> smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the >> US >> Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over >> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. >> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being >> visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. >> which >> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting >> to >> the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to >> physically >> crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two >> questions: >> >> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above >> the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna >> on >> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be >> the >> direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna >> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. >> >> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is >> just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any >> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular >> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of >> installation. >> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. >> >> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be >> neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 >> watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also >> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have >> been spoiled with that setup over the years. >> >> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in >> length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. >> suspende
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Hi Mike, I don't know where the 3 SQ-FT comes from. US Tower does not publish ratings for the MA series any longer. I have had an MA-40 since 1982 and at that time the rating was 10 SQ-FT @ 50 MPH winds fully extended. I have confirmed this with US Tower in the past. I was also told at that time that they do not rate the tower retracted. There have been some new regulations concerning tower ratings in the past couple which is probably why they do not list it now. I have had a 3 Element SteppIR on this tower since 2006. The HRO website still lists the rating at 10 SQ-FT. That being said, I do retract the tower if winds of 50 MPH are predicted or if I am leaving for any length of time. My base is 3 X 3 X 5 which was recommended at that time and I have the drawings for that. I think the 3 SQ is indicating the size of the extended portion which is 3 inches square. Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47 -0700 (MST) From: Mike K2MK To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Terry, I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at 3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2 element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30 mph were forecasted. Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation. The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful I didn't have to any of the work. This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit. With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one. I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you want the link. k2mk at comcast dot net 73, Mike K2MK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Hi Terry, I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at 3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2 element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30 mph were forecasted. Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation. The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful I didn't have to any of the work. This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit. With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one. I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you want the link. k2mk at comcast dot net 73, Mike K2MK Terry Brown wrote > Hello all, > > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On > the > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam > and tower date from the time I became a ham. > > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, > Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is > amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight > rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. > My > home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be > about > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S > with > the tower on the west side of the house. > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the > US > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. > which > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting > to > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to > physically > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > questions: > > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna > on > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be > the > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is > just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular > constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of > installation. > A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have > been spoiled with that setup over the years. > > Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in > length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. > suspended > from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a > 4:1 > balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with > 20 > or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a > vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and > S > side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners > for > my horizontal loop. I
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Terry, If you check out my QRZ page, you'll note that I have a USTower TMM-541SS with a Yaesu G1000DXA rotator and a Force12 XR6 topping it off. https://www.qrz.com/db/K4QE The antenna is at 47 feet AGL and it covers 20 thru 6 with one coax. The TMM-541SS nests down to 12 feet, and I also have the tilt-over kit. I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about it. 73, Tony K4QE On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > > > There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the > > venerable TA-33. > > Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and > 10 meters. Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on) > option. Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they > they have boom lengths equal or less than the TA-33/TA-33jr and the > full size elements mean they are much more efficient than the Mosley > antennas. > > The Force 12 or Navassa provide full performance on up to six bands > in a package the size and weight of the TA-33 (or TA33JR-WARC). > > 73, > >... Joe, W4TV > > > > On 7/12/2016 9:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote: > >> Hello Terry, >> >> In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower >> is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along >> the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the >> antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you >> any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some >> distance from the house. >> >> Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of >> the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, >> though. >> >> I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will >> have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may >> find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, >> but has a wider bandwidth. >> >> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the >> venerable TA-33. >> >> Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. >> In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. >> >> 73, >> Vic, 4X6GP >> Rehovot, Israel >> Formerly K2VCO >> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ >> >> On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: >> >>> Hello all, >>> >>> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since >>> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am >>> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I >>> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. >>> On the >>> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam >>> and tower date from the time I became a ham. >>> >>> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, >>> Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower >>> setup. >>> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is >>> amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight >>> rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower >>> again. My >>> home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my >>> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be >>> about >>> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S >>> with >>> the tower on the west side of the house. \ >>> >>> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a >>> smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen >>> the US >>> Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over >>> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. >>> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not >>> being >>> visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. >>> which >>> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when >>> transmitting to >>> the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to >>> physically >>> crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two >>> questions: >>> >>> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above >>> the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive >>> antenna on >>> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will >>> be the >>> direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna >>> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. >>> >>> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US >>> Tower is >>> just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any >>> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular >>> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of >>> installation. >>> A triangular designed crankup may be o
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Many years ago I replaced a TA 33 with a Force 12 C3, I saw one db improvement in signals testing 15 meters and 20 meters ( before then after) with a station 30 miles away, it was even on 10 meters, in all ways of comparison it was better, I later put the 40 meter element on it which had its own feed line simply a great antenna is my report, which proved out chasing dx before then after how many tries how much power. On a tower I would also check out the aluminum crank up getting the pro and con input from others a friend had one many years ago was happy with it. If the antenna at low rest height is right you work on the antenna from the roof a benefit of putting it by the house. Regards Art ka9zap On 7/12/2016 8:44 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote: The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be able to work a lot of stations with this setup. Before buying the antenna I would suggest that you read the tribander test report. http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2 John KK9A from: Terry Brown n7tb Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016 Hello all, I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to ka9...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Terry, with the assistance and skill of the legendary Skip, KJ6Y, I have just had installed the US Tower MA-40, and cannot recommend it more highly especially for a tight urban lot. The tubular tower easily supports a 63-pound SteppIR DB-11 plus a smaller 40M rotatable MFJ dipole. It rests when I’m not operating at the roof level, and rises to well above roof line (2 story house) fully extended. This is a mighty little tower. Happy to round up some still shots for you off-list if you wish. David Ahrendts, KK6DA, Los Angeles > Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016 > > Hello all, > > > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > questions: > > > > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have > been spoiled with that setup over the years. > > > Thanks in advance to you all. > > > > 73's, > > > > Terry Brown, N7TB > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to davidahren...@me.com David Ahrendts davidahren...@me.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the > venerable TA-33. Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and 10 meters. Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on) option. Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they they have boom lengths equal or less than the TA-33/TA-33jr and the full size elements mean they are much more efficient than the Mosley antennas. The Force 12 or Navassa provide full performance on up to six bands in a package the size and weight of the TA-33 (or TA33JR-WARC). 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 7/12/2016 9:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote: Hello Terry, In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some distance from the house. Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, though. I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, but has a wider bandwidth. There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the venerable TA-33. Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. 73, Vic, 4X6GP Rehovot, Israel Formerly K2VCO http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: Hello all, I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam and tower date from the time I became a ham. I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with the tower on the west side of the house. \ I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the
[Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be able to work a lot of stations with this setup. Before buying the antenna I would suggest that you read the tribander test report. http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2 John KK9A from: Terry Brown n7tb Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016 Hello all, I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I don't have the tilt base. I bought my MA40 and beam used, so not sure of its age. Quality seems fine. I made an adapter for a cordless drill to allow me to crank it up and down without cranking. Vic is correct that the TA33Jr is a little more narrow banded than some leather beams. However, I use it successfully on both CW and SSB without a tuner. It has a lot less wind load than a full sized triband beam, which is important with a tower of that type if the rotor is placed at the top as I have it. Might not be as big an issue if you rotate the whole tower. On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 8:28 AM Mel Farrer via Elecraft < elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote: > Don't discount the Hex Beam concept. > Mel, K6KBE > > > From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown > Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower > > Hello Terry, > > In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower > is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along > the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the > antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you > any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some > distance from the house. > > Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of > the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, > though. > > I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will > have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may > find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, > but has a wider bandwidth. > > There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the > venerable TA-33. > > Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. > In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. > > 73, > Vic, 4X6GP > Rehovot, Israel > Formerly K2VCO > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > > On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: > > Hello all, > > > > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since > > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am > > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I > > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On > the > > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam > > and tower date from the time I became a ham. > > > > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, > > Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower > setup. > > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is > > amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight > > rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. > My > > home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my > > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be > about > > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S > with > > the tower on the west side of the house. \ > > > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the > US > > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not > being > > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. > which > > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting > to > > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to > physically > > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > > questions: > > > > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive > antenna on > > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be > the > > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > > > 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower > is > > just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any > > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubula
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Don't discount the Hex Beam concept. Mel, K6KBE From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower Hello Terry, In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some distance from the house. Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, though. I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, but has a wider bandwidth. There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the venerable TA-33. Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. 73, Vic, 4X6GP Rehovot, Israel Formerly K2VCO http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: > Hello all, > > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam > and tower date from the time I became a ham. > > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, > Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is > amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight > rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My > home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with > the tower on the west side of the house. \ > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > questions: > > 1. Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > 2. I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is > just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular > constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. > A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have > been spoiled with that setup over the years. > > Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in > length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended > from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 > balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 > or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a > vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S > side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for > my horizontal loop. I wi
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Hello Terry, In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some distance from the house. Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, though. I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, but has a wider bandwidth. There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the venerable TA-33. Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. 73, Vic, 4X6GP Rehovot, Israel Formerly K2VCO http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: Hello all, I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam and tower date from the time I became a ham. I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with the tower on the west side of the house. \ I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for my horizontal loop. I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE corner. I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being horizontally polarized. My current one works great so I want the same thing for my new QTH. I look forward to getting some great input from this group. I have been amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailm
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I also moved and down sized my antenna/tower. I put up 40' of my 70' Rohn 25. I added a hazer and can bring the antenna down to the ground, no climbing. I added a worm gear to the hazer and am able to run the hazer with a battery operated drill. I thought about having the tower attached to the side of the house but that would mean climbing on the roof (high pitch) to get to the antenna. My 3el steppir is below the trees and works just fine. 73 Tex ka5y -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Need-advice-on-Small-Tower-tp7619982p7619986.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Terry - My tower is a MA-40, bracketed to the end of my garage, with a rotor and TA-33Jr on top. I've worked 200 DXCC entities with it at 100 watts from here in the RF black hole of Minnesota, so it seems like an effective setup for me. It's not a 'super station' but I have plenty of fun with it (and my K3/P3!). 73 de W0ZF On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 8:22 PM Terry Brown wrote: > Hello all, > > > > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On > the > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam > and tower date from the time I became a ham. > > > > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, > Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is > amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight > rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My > home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with > the tower on the west side of the house. > > > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > questions: > > > > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna > on > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be > the > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > > > 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is > just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular > constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of > installation. > A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. > > > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have > been spoiled with that setup over the years. > > > > Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in > length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended > from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 > balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 > or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a > vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S > side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for > my horizontal loop. I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the > NE > corner. I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being > horizontally polarized. My current one works great so I want the same > thing > for my new QTH. > > > > I look forward to getting some great input from this group. I have been > amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group. > > > > Thanks in advance to you all. > > > > 73's, > > > > Terry Brown, N7TB > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to dave.w...@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: htt
[Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Hello all, I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam and tower date from the time I became a ham. I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with the tower on the west side of the house. I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for my horizontal loop. I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE corner. I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being horizontally polarized. My current one works great so I want the same thing for my new QTH. I look forward to getting some great input from this group. I have been amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
Ed, I did the Synth upgrade (= improvement) and the 2nd preamp for the higher bands (= a very necessary feature) That's it for me. 73 Arie PA3A Op 2-5-2016 om 20:49 schreef Ed via Elecraft: I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? Thanks, Ed NI6S __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Need Advice - K3+
Hello Ed, I have the feeling that K3S is transition model before any evolution product from Elecraft. Or it is a way to extend the current K3 product life cycle - a classic business school case. Hence, I tend to not heavily invest for a new K3S. I did the KSYN3A upgrade which is crucial to the enhancement of performance. The installation is easy. 73 Johnny VR2XMC 寄件人︰ Phil Wheeler 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 傳送日期︰ 2016年05月3日 (週二) 5:03 AM 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice That's working well for me, Ed. 73, Phil W7OX On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote: > I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It > seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am > about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. > > In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? > > Thanks, > Ed NI6S __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to vr2...@yahoo.com.hk __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
There is an alternative approach. I have an early K3 and found a version of the SW that does everything I like and I stopped updating. My feelings go this way. At some time I will send it in for some reason and have them bring it up to current. Until then I am a very happy camper. It is not broke so I won't attempt fixing it... NUF said. Mel, K6KBE From: Fred Jensen To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 3:33 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice U think you'll have more than 90%. I installed the new synth myself. Second hardest part was disconnecting all the wires behind my "wireless," and the hardest part was reconnecting them. You have to do that if you send it in as well. The actual install was very straightforward and easy. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016 - www.cqp.org On 5/2/2016 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote: > I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. > It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a > K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP > board swap, etc. > > In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? > > Thanks, Ed NI6S __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to farrerfo...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
U think you'll have more than 90%. I installed the new synth myself. Second hardest part was disconnecting all the wires behind my "wireless," and the hardest part was reconnecting them. You have to do that if you send it in as well. The actual install was very straightforward and easy. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016 - www.cqp.org On 5/2/2016 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote: I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? Thanks, Ed NI6S __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
had my k3 about three years now. I have always kept up with upgrades. hardware and sw. seems like the best way to protect my investment and keep it current. I do the hardware upgrades myself. saves shipping cost and time. it is not hard to do ur self. ron On Mon, May 2, 2016, 16:06 Phil Wheeler wrote: > That's working well for me, Ed. > > 73, Phil W7OX > > > On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote: > > I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It > seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I > am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, > etc. > > > > In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? > > > > Thanks, > > Ed NI6S > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to k5hm@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
That's working well for me, Ed. 73, Phil W7OX On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote: I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? Thanks, Ed NI6S __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
You’ll have more than 90% of a K3S if you have kept up with the mods and offered upgrades over time. The main differences would be (1) an improved 4-layer RF board with a reduced noise profile, (2) improved (lower) IMD in the audio section of the new DSP board for speaker outputs (this was supposed to be made available for the K3, but nothing has been heard about it’s status), (3) “hard” switching to bypass the new tuner module, and (4) a fancier escutcheon. Everyone’s mileage varies on this, of course. I have elected to keep my fully-loaded and fully-upgraded K3 and not go through the exercise of "unbundling” the installed options, selling the barebones K3, buying and rebuilding a K3S. and ending up in the hole financially. I think the differences would be completely unnoticeable by most, even if it makes them feel better about their place in the world :-) I’m saving the $$ involved and putting them in the whatever-the-next-major-Elecraft-radio-is piggy bank :-) Grant NQ5T K3 #2091, KX3 #8342 > On May 2, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Ed via Elecraft wrote: > > I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It > seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am > about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. > > In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
Hi Ed! I took the same route with K3 #0056 and am very pleased. Would do the same again. 73 Ken - K0PP On May 2, 2016 12:51, "Ed via Elecraft" wrote: > I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It > seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I > am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, > etc. > > In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? > > Thanks, > Ed NI6S > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to kengk...@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Need Advice
I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go? Thanks, Ed NI6S __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice for K3 and RX BC AM
Jo, Without adding the 6 kHz or 13 kHz filter, AM reception may be done using the 2.7 (or 2.8) kHz filter for Synchronous AM reception. That gives you a full 2.7 kHz audio width instead of constraining it to half that width when using regular AM demodulation. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/12/2012 5:17 AM, Jo, YC0LOW wrote: > My Elecraft K3 has no AM filters installed. I tried to RX AM broadcast > stations on MW band but had no success. > I'd be grateful if you could advice me to add it on, or, is there a way to > do it as is, now pse? > I need it as features to check the 160m RX antenna directions in the coming > YB8Y DXpedition (OC-221, GL PI64mh) starts in March 20th. 2012 . > > Tnx es 73 de Jo, YC0LOW > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Need advice for K3 and RX BC AM
My Elecraft K3 has no AM filters installed. I tried to RX AM broadcast stations on MW band but had no success. I'd be grateful if you could advice me to add it on, or, is there a way to do it as is, now pse? I need it as features to check the 160m RX antenna directions in the coming YB8Y DXpedition (OC-221, GL PI64mh) starts in March 20th. 2012 . Tnx es 73 de Jo, YC0LOW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig
Hi Susan I would also suggest playing with the RX eq I have serial # 3142 before the DSP change and found that for my taste I liked the RX better if I pulled down the top two bands (#7) 2.4 kHz and (#8) 3.2 kHz to -5 this takes some of the high end shisssh hiss off receiver. With a couple of (one time) menu changes you might find things better suited for you listening pleasure. If you rig is a later one the DSP board could be the latest one that will be better on your ears but if its the earlier one then I think pulling down top two bands on the RX eq just might help you find the feel / sound your looking for. If you have K3ez utility loaded on your computer its easy to set the RX eq, if not use the [MENU] tap to get to the main menu settings Page 52 on my manual revision D4. Rotate the sub VFO B until you see RX EQ then press number the # key you want to change with the VFO A knob setting the new value. I have both 3.2 & 2.4 pulled down to -5 ... Hope this makes sense and is something you can try Susan Here is my subjective opinion I have had for the past 3 years plus a FT2000 DMU U-tuning kit 40/80 station, along came the K3 the born on date June 13 09 since having the K3 on the air and doing a lot of A/B testing on RX the only thing I found to complain about with the K3 was the (thin) receive audio doing mostly cw this did not make that much difference to me. I did the RX eq adjustment and have only transmitted on the FT2k 4 times all total now since the (Born On Date) of the K3 there simply is no comparison in performance when push comes to shove between these two radios. Size was going to be an issue before I got my K3 running was my (preconceived opinion) but when I started to play with the K3 size became a (no issue) right off. After the first 6 months of A/B receive testing I hardly ever turn on my twice broke Yaesu on it's a back up I don't think I will need anytime soon. The only thing I miss is not having a triple band stacking register like the other radios in this class, size and wait are a trade off and not a bad one at that. This radio keeps evolving which is a very big plus no need to sell at half price to get the next offering like the big 2 seem to have there customers doing every 2 1/2 years or so. Try setting you RX eq and see if this will help you find the sound your looking for. 88 Regards Art ka9zap > -Original Message- > rig > > Aloha: >I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair > trail. It is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to > get it to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb. > > I think I want to get rid of it. > > Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase? > > Susan > > If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're > headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM > USSV DHARMA > > > se help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig
The noise will normally be different, Susan. The bandwidth is typically narrower for CW, which means the noise will sound different and be lower in amplitude for CW. You aren't the first to complain that the rig is "too complicated", but it need not be. The issue is usually there are too many things you can adjust to suit your preferences but, once that's done, it's set-and-forget. So if you can offer some specifics, perhaps the assembled gang can come up with a setup you like. People question about whether I still should be felling trees or climbing masts, on ships at the tender young age of 72. As I wrote you separately I'll refer them to your web site sailing alone across the Pacific at... well... older than I am now. 73 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- rig Aloha: I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair trail. It is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to get it to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb. I think I want to get rid of it. Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase? Susan If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA se help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig
Susan, I think that the days of having background noise from SSB to CW sound exactly the same are over. They went out the door with DSP, how it processes a signal, and what it ends up doing with it to improve the quality of reception. I can only assume what you are trying to say is that you can't get the filters to filter the same, and the noise floor has a different ambiance to it from one mode to the next. Not that one is louder than the other, because if that's the case, then what you really need is someone to show you how to properly use the Width, Shift ( Hi, Lo) and Notch tools along with the NR and NB all in conjunction to do what you're looking to do. The rig really isn't all the hard to use. 99% of what you're going to do is on the front of the rig. Yes, you have to set the menus up ONE time, after that it's pretty much set it and forget it. Changing to another rig is just going to yield you the same thing, but with a whole new set of menus and controls to learn. Sounds to me like you may be better going back to an older rig like the FT1000MP. That would pretty much achieve what you're after, and cost you half of what you paid for the K3. > Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:04:05 -0700 > From: ussvdha...@yahoo.com > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; li...@subich.com > Subject: [Elecraft] need advice on rig > > Aloha: > I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair trail. It > is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to get it to > give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb. > > I think I want to get rid of it. > > Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase? > > Susan > > If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! > Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig
Hi Susan, I love my K3 and it may be worth you trying a little longer to get used too. And if I were going to step down in quality to me the next best rig is the Elecraft K2...not as complicated but a great CW rig. Joe KK5NA On Fri, 2010-08-20 at 12:04 -0700, ussv dharma wrote: > Aloha: > I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair trail. > It is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to get it > to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb. > > I think I want to get rid of it. > > Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase? > > Susan > > If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! > Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA > > > --- On Fri, 8/20/10, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > > > From: Joe Subich, W4TV > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation > > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 8:49 AM > > > > > Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or > > other audio rack > > > gear? > > > > Why bother? The K3 already provides all of the > > capability of the > > W2IHY 8 band EQ/noise gate, adds downward expansion in the > > noise > > gate and there is no issue with external hum loops, RF > > pick-up, etc. > > > > > I'm still waiting for my K3 to get back from the > > factory, but I plan > > > on running the full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil > > GM-5 Mic. > > > > I've used wide range (broadcast style) mics and the Heil > > HC-5 element > > with the K3's internal EQ and find that configuring the K3 > > for a 6 dB > > per octave roll off below 400 Hz (50 Hz: -16dB, 100 Hz: > > -12dB, 200 Hz: > > -6 dB), a -6dB "notch" at 800 Hz and 6 dB per octave rise > > above 1000 Hz > > (1600 Hz: +6dB, 2400 Hz: +10dB, 3200 Hz: +12dB) yields > > extremely good > > audio reports with the "broadcast" mic and a lot of > > "presence" without > > the "restricted" sound on the HC-5. > > > > Coupled with "CMP" at 25, this provides plenty of "punch" > > without > > sounding over processed and "all highs" like the HC-4. > > > > 73, > > > > ... Joe, W4TV > > > > > > On 8/20/2010 11:54 AM, Tim Tucker wrote: > > > Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or > > other audio rack gear? If > > > so, I'm curious as to the settings you ended up with > > on the rig. I'm still > > > waiting for my K3 to get back from the factory, but I > > plan on running the > > > full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil GM-5 Mic. I > > imagine I will probably > > > end up with the comp and EQ on the rig turned off, but > > I'd like to hear what > > > others do. > > > > > > Tim > > > AE6LX > > > > > > On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Philippe > > Trottet > > wrote: > > > > > >> Hi James, > > >> I'm using MH2 also for Field day opertions and > > almost same as you, set > > >> MIC=2& COMP=20 TX equalizer has > > been adjust to my loud voice given > > >> preferential to medium high > > audio. Great > > >> 73's > > >> Philippe A65BI > > >> K3#3616 > > >> > > > > > 20-08-2010 18:54>>> > > >> Who uses the Elecraft hand mic? I do and mic gain > > has to be set low; i.e. > > >> around 8 or 9 to prevent clipping and flat > > topping as viewed on a monitor > > >> scope. This is with mic sensitivity set to > > low in the menu. I was once > > >> told that the hand mics are a tad hot, but mine > > seems to be excessively so. > > >> > > >> Regardless, my comp is set to 15 or 20 and I get > > excellent audio reports. > > >> > > >> James K2QI > > >> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile > > >> > > >> -Original Message- > > >> From: Stephen Prior > > >> Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net > > >> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:21:00 > > >> To: elecraft > > >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation > > >> > > >> I use the Heil MD2 microphone which has an > > electret element. I have both > > >> compression and mic gain set to 25, and mic set to > > front panel low with > > >> bias. > > >> > > >> I have far more 'talk power' than I have enjoyed > > with any previous radio. > > >> > > >> 73 Stephen G4SJP > > >> > > >> > > >> On 20/08/2010 04:24, "Joseph Trombino, Jr" > > wrote: > > >> > > >> > > Hi > > > > We are the proud owners of 6 K3/100 used > > at the FY5KE contest station. > > These radios has been delivered around > > mid-2008 and their serial numbers > > are in the 012xx range. > > > > After using mostly these rigs for SSB > > contesting in FY5KE or in other > > places, we are still facing a lack of > > "dynamics", "punch", > > "penetration", "power", whatever you call > > it. In other words, when > > comparing this rig to our radios we > > previously used (TS-850), with the > > same microphone (Heil HC-4 element) and > > the same output RF power, the K3 > > is clearly way behind in term of "average > > power" we can read on
[Elecraft] need advice on rig
Aloha: I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair trail. It is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to get it to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb. I think I want to get rid of it. Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase? Susan If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA --- On Fri, 8/20/10, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > From: Joe Subich, W4TV > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 8:49 AM > > > Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or > other audio rack > > gear? > > Why bother? The K3 already provides all of the > capability of the > W2IHY 8 band EQ/noise gate, adds downward expansion in the > noise > gate and there is no issue with external hum loops, RF > pick-up, etc. > > > I'm still waiting for my K3 to get back from the > factory, but I plan > > on running the full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil > GM-5 Mic. > > I've used wide range (broadcast style) mics and the Heil > HC-5 element > with the K3's internal EQ and find that configuring the K3 > for a 6 dB > per octave roll off below 400 Hz (50 Hz: -16dB, 100 Hz: > -12dB, 200 Hz: > -6 dB), a -6dB "notch" at 800 Hz and 6 dB per octave rise > above 1000 Hz > (1600 Hz: +6dB, 2400 Hz: +10dB, 3200 Hz: +12dB) yields > extremely good > audio reports with the "broadcast" mic and a lot of > "presence" without > the "restricted" sound on the HC-5. > > Coupled with "CMP" at 25, this provides plenty of "punch" > without > sounding over processed and "all highs" like the HC-4. > > 73, > > ... Joe, W4TV > > > On 8/20/2010 11:54 AM, Tim Tucker wrote: > > Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or > other audio rack gear? If > > so, I'm curious as to the settings you ended up with > on the rig. I'm still > > waiting for my K3 to get back from the factory, but I > plan on running the > > full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil GM-5 Mic. I > imagine I will probably > > end up with the comp and EQ on the rig turned off, but > I'd like to hear what > > others do. > > > > Tim > > AE6LX > > > > On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Philippe > Trottet > wrote: > > > >> Hi James, > >> I'm using MH2 also for Field day opertions and > almost same as you, set > >> MIC=2& COMP=20 TX equalizer has > been adjust to my loud voice given > >> preferential to medium high > audio. Great > >> 73's > >> Philippe A65BI > >> K3#3616 > >> > > > 20-08-2010 18:54>>> > >> Who uses the Elecraft hand mic? I do and mic gain > has to be set low; i.e. > >> around 8 or 9 to prevent clipping and flat > topping as viewed on a monitor > >> scope. This is with mic sensitivity set to > low in the menu. I was once > >> told that the hand mics are a tad hot, but mine > seems to be excessively so. > >> > >> Regardless, my comp is set to 15 or 20 and I get > excellent audio reports. > >> > >> James K2QI > >> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile > >> > >> -Original Message- > >> From: Stephen Prior > >> Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net > >> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:21:00 > >> To: elecraft > >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation > >> > >> I use the Heil MD2 microphone which has an > electret element. I have both > >> compression and mic gain set to 25, and mic set to > front panel low with > >> bias. > >> > >> I have far more 'talk power' than I have enjoyed > with any previous radio. > >> > >> 73 Stephen G4SJP > >> > >> > >> On 20/08/2010 04:24, "Joseph Trombino, Jr" > wrote: > >> > >> > Hi > > We are the proud owners of 6 K3/100 used > at the FY5KE contest station. > These radios has been delivered around > mid-2008 and their serial numbers > are in the 012xx range. > > After using mostly these rigs for SSB > contesting in FY5KE or in other > places, we are still facing a lack of > "dynamics", "punch", > "penetration", "power", whatever you call > it. In other words, when > comparing this rig to our radios we > previously used (TS-850), with the > same microphone (Heil HC-4 element) and > the same output RF power, the K3 > is clearly way behind in term of "average > power" we can read on the Bird > wattmeter wired on its RF output. Even if > observing the wattmeter needle > is not a very scientific measurement (we > admit it), various comparative > reports on the air do confirm our > feeling. > > We spent time on various available > settings (mic gain, compressor level, > etc), with no luck, excepted a very > distorted and awful audio to roughly > reach the same level, which is not > acceptable. > > After a little Googling, it appears that > other contesters suffers the > same issue (e.g. > www.bavarian-contest-club.de/projects/K3_english.pdf >
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice
Lynn, Any chance that the speaker cable became unplugged inside? - you need to remove the top cover to check. 73, Don W3FPR Lynn Lamb, W4NL wrote: > Maybe a problem maybe not! > > The K3 works fine except the speaker audio has gone away. No external > speaker and when unplugged there is no K3 speaker audio either. The > headphones work fine as every other part of the K3 does. I've not removed > the top or in any way upset anything. I've checked every control and menu > settings although I've not messed with them. One minute it had audio from > the speaker and the next none. Any ideas before I call Elecraft? > > Thanks Lynn W4NL > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice
Maybe a problem maybe not! The K3 works fine except the speaker audio has gone away. No external speaker and when unplugged there is no K3 speaker audio either. The headphones work fine as every other part of the K3 does. I've not removed the top or in any way upset anything. I've checked every control and menu settings although I've not messed with them. One minute it had audio from the speaker and the next none. Any ideas before I call Elecraft? Thanks Lynn W4NL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
Thanks, Vic I'll probably start my K3 with no PA, as I'm a full-time QRPer. That would help keep the drain down to some- thing manageable. Also no 2nd RX to start anyway. What would be your impression of the difficulty of removing the 100w PA to keep drain down for FD? Thanks and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Robert Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft Reflector" Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 12:23 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia? > Robert Tellefsen wrote: > > Hi Vic > > Just out of curiousity, have you metered the > > K3's current draw in receive mode? I > > expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and > > want to start planning for the battery/solar > > bank to run it. > > Yes, actually, it's about 1 amp. It might be less if you don't have the > 100w amp installed; it doesn't seem to matter if you turn the power down > to 5 watts with the amp in place. The second RX would also increase the > current drawn. > -- > 73, > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
Robert Tellefsen wrote: Hi Vic Just out of curiousity, have you metered the K3's current draw in receive mode? I expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and want to start planning for the battery/solar bank to run it. Yes, actually, it's about 1 amp. It might be less if you don't have the 100w amp installed; it doesn't seem to matter if you turn the power down to 5 watts with the amp in place. The second RX would also increase the current drawn. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
Hi Vic Just out of curiousity, have you metered the K3's current draw in receive mode? I expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and want to start planning for the battery/solar bank to run it. Thanks and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chris Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:56 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia? > Chris Wagner wrote: > > > Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are machines or > > people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and K3 > > side by side? Thank you! > > The K3's filters are much better than the K2's, in terms of IMD > performance and ultimate rejection. > > The K3 has both an analog noise blanker and a DSP noise blanker; the > combination is effective against the Chinese radar (at least as heard in > California!). > > Note the DSP noise blanker is different from the DSP noise *reduction*, > which is an entirely different function. NR reduces background noise > which makes listening more comfortable, but does not remove pulse noise. > > The K2 has an optional analog noise blanker and an optional DSP which > provides an NR function. The K3 comes with the analog noise blanker, the > DSP noise blanker, and the DSP NR function. > > All of the above are much more easily adjustable on the fly in the K3. > > I have listened to the K2 and K3 side by side and the K3 is much better > in many ways. Of course, it is also bigger, more expensive, and more > power-hungry (which might matter if you will run it from batteries). > -- > 73, > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
Chris Wagner wrote: Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are machines or people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and K3 side by side? Thank you! The K3's filters are much better than the K2's, in terms of IMD performance and ultimate rejection. The K3 has both an analog noise blanker and a DSP noise blanker; the combination is effective against the Chinese radar (at least as heard in California!). Note the DSP noise blanker is different from the DSP noise *reduction*, which is an entirely different function. NR reduces background noise which makes listening more comfortable, but does not remove pulse noise. The K2 has an optional analog noise blanker and an optional DSP which provides an NR function. The K3 comes with the analog noise blanker, the DSP noise blanker, and the DSP NR function. All of the above are much more easily adjustable on the fly in the K3. I have listened to the K2 and K3 side by side and the K3 is much better in many ways. Of course, it is also bigger, more expensive, and more power-hungry (which might matter if you will run it from batteries). -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
It's time to get a new rig. I'll be using it in Thailand - with bad conditions (Chinese radar, pirates and not many hams in neighboring countries). >From experience, I know and love the K1 and K2. But right now I'm confused about which one to buy. The KX1 is very portable and with bad conditions, a few bands should suffice. But I also love the K3 hi. Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are machines or people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and K3 side by side? Thank you! Chris Hs0zfe ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
G'day, Well my set up here is: Mode B PdLr I'm mainly left handed and send dashes with my thumb Have a Bencher BY-2 or whatever the two paddled horror is called and I don't like it Will probably get a single paddle soon, probably Kent kit. My first keyer was a Samson (sp) ETM-2B which I used for two years sending weather obs in the Antarctic thirty years ago. My second keyer is a K2! I guess I don't make much use of iambic except when sending CQ. There is only a small advantage in key strokes between iambic and single paddle. Using a single paddle I just roll the tip of my finger and ball of my thumb on the paddle and it works just fine, for me. How did the dots with the thumb happen. Right at my beginning with the ETM-2B I rather thought that sending the fastest element with the slowest responding digit seemed odd and have sent dits with my finger ever since. There again as I said above, I'm a mainly left handed hybrid. In single paddle mode, mode A or B seem to work the same for me. And remember, only left handed people are in their right mind. Think brain hemispheres. Regards, Mike VP8NO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
That's my technique too. Doug W6JD -- Original message -- From: "Brian Murrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm just a slap keyer I guess. Never could figure out that Iambic > stuff...when to squeeze, when not to squeeze...so I just flop my digits back > and forth. > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Mike Morrow" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 5:34 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key > > > > Tom wrote: > > > > >>1. Iambic A or Iambic B? > > > > > >Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'. > > > > Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here. > > > > The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, > since holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an > iambic string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though > the paddle for that dit or dah was not closed. In mode A, one gets a dit or > dah ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed. > > > > There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations > required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles > to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would. > > > > I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an > early electronic keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a > "feature." > But, which ever mode one learns, the other will be hated. > > > > I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig > manufacturers (such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in > some of their rigs that function only in mode B. It's also obvious that, in > some ham Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a > sign > of superiority. > > > > 73, > > Mike / KK5F > > ___ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
I'm just a slap keyer I guess. Never could figure out that Iambic stuff...when to squeeze, when not to squeeze...so I just flop my digits back and forth. - Original Message - From: "Mike Morrow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 5:34 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key > Tom wrote: > > >>1. Iambic A or Iambic B? > > > >Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'. > > Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here. > > The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, since holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an iambic string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though the paddle for that dit or dah was not closed. In mode A, one gets a dit or dah ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed. > > There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would. > > I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an early electronic keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a "feature." But, which ever mode one learns, the other will be hated. > > I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig manufacturers (such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in some of their rigs that function only in mode B. It's also obvious that, in some ham Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a sign of superiority. > > 73, > Mike / KK5F > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
One man's nemesis is another man's requirement By pure chance, I learned to use a keyer with a Mode B machine many,,,many years ago. I now find that I have trouble leaving off trailing dots if I use a Mode A machine. So the remark that Mode B allows leaving off a tiny bit earlier is right on. I need that little extra time. I'm sure I could retrain to use a mode A machine, but at age 64 and 49 years experience on the air perhaps doesn't allow for that. 73, Dave, K4TO Mike Morrow wrote: Tom wrote: 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'. Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here. The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, since holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an iambic string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though the paddle for that dit or dah was not closed. In mode A, one gets a dit or dah ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed. There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would. I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an early electronic keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a "feature." But, which ever mode one learns, the other will be hated. I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig manufacturers (such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in some of their rigs that function only in mode B. It's also obvious that, in some ham Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a sign of superiority. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
Tom wrote: >>1. Iambic A or Iambic B? > >Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'. Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here. The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, since holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an iambic string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though the paddle for that dit or dah was not closed. In mode A, one gets a dit or dah ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed. There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would. I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an early electronic keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a "feature." But, which ever mode one learns, the other will be hated. I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig manufacturers (such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in some of their rigs that function only in mode B. It's also obvious that, in some ham Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a sign of superiority. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
I agree with Tom. "NO...! TAKE IT OUT OF TEST MODE NOW!!! NOW is the time to be OPERATING! GET ON THE AIR and USE your abilities... use the J-38 as a starting point... you can probably get up to 18-20 WPM with it yet, all the while improving your abilities to copy. " There is simply NO better method to improve both your sending and receiving skill than to operate on the air, plus it's fun. Any CW op worth their salt will always slow down to your sending speed (assuming most can copy what they can send, so don't send faster than you can copy). If you run across a CW op that will not slow down, say no thank you and move on. We all had horrible fists at one time and were slow. I will never forget one of my first CW QSOs. as a new Technician with Morse code, that laster over an hour. Later I discovered the ham that listened to my shakey and poor fist was an Extra class operator. That made an impression on me and to this day I do my best to "pay it forward" when I hear the slow unsteady fist of a new CW op. Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
Tom, of course the spring tension is the same on both paddles, the spring just wraps around the rear post. However, the distance from the pivots to the spring attachment point is individually adjustable. So, although the spring tension is identical, left to right, that tension's torque (toward opening the contact) is dependant on the lever arm from the pivot to the spring grove on the screw (or is it a bolt). Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 2a. You forgot to ask about spring tension. The BY-1 is (supposedly) independently adjustable for tension, however given that the spring can (eventually) 'roll' around the cylindrical post, you usually wind up with both paddles adjusted to nearly the same tension... which is not all that bad an idea anyway. btw, I have mine adjusted so the opening torque is the same on both paddles. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
Hi Bill: So, before I condescend to selling my Bencher BY-2, retiring the J-38 for life and start building the K2 SSB board, the 100 watt amp and permanently retiring up-band, can someone give me some advice on possibly mastering the Iambic key. NEVER GIVE UP...! Questions include: 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'. 2. Proper contact spacing on the paddles? Personal preference dominates here, but for starters, try using a QSL card as a feeler gauge. This is generally a pretty good starting point. NOTE: You'll probably get a LOT of 'opinions' here, so read ALL of them and then try to choose what feels best to you. Some folks who consider themselves 'speed merchants' like to set their contacts to the point that I'd swear you could BLOW on the paddles and have them close. This drives me NUTZ!!! And it is certainly NOT RECOMMENDED for a newbie... you can do that later, once you are an expert! 2a. You forgot to ask about spring tension. The BY-1 is (supposedly) independently adjustable for tension, however given that the spring can (eventually) 'roll' around the cylindrical post, you usually wind up with both paddles adjusted to nearly the same tension... which is not all that bad an idea anyway. Again, 'personal' taste dominated here, but I like to set my paddles (and I am a 25-40 WPM CW op, so these settings work well for me from 5 WPM to 40 WPM), such that I must exert a small amount of pressure on the paddles to close them solidly, but NOT nearly so much pressure that there's any chance of my moving the paddle base. I want to be able to 1) HEAR a slight 'click' as the contact closes, to 2) FEEL a bit of movement when that closure occurs, and finally 3) to feel a small amount of resistance as I close the contacts. 3. Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed. Paddle (N)ormal E.g. DAH on the right, DIT on the left 4. How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start at 20 wpm and work down or 10 wpm and work up? Did you ever put in any time on a bug? We'er of the same vintage (licensed in '57-'58) it sound like, so you may have had some familiarity with a bug. IF you HAVE used a bug, you may find that you do not need (or want) to use iambic keying... the keyer's still completely useful if you never use any of the iambic features! NOT using iambic just means that you don't try to learn 'squeeze keying'... how to keep one paddle closed while flicking your other finger to 'insert' a DIT or DAH in between the other element being generated. You'd basically use the paddle as if it were a BUG, hitting one side for DITs and the other side for DAHs, and merely alternating between the two paddles to form characters. Generally easier than learning iambic. Regardless of which mode you choose, start sending at a speed at or just slightly above that at which you can copy. If you learn to send at 20 WPM while only copying 10 WPM, you'll find yourself CQing at a speed much above what you can copy and having responses at that same speed... and having to ask for many QRS'. One can always (almost) always send faster than he can copy, so there's little problem in cranking up the speed once you have the 'feel' for the paddles and the keyer. 5. Slap or caress the paddles? NEVER SLAP!!! Caress is probably not a bad description. When one is sending CW with a paddle, there is a finite amount of time required to make the DIT-to-DAH (or vice versa) transition. If you 'slap' at the paddles, you fingers will be MUCH too widely spaced (from the paddles) and you'll find that you'll have difficulty getting your fingers TO the alternate paddle in time to properly complete some characters. So, reduce the finger-to-paddle space as much as possible. You don't have to touch both paddles all the time, but your fingers should be very close to them so only a small amount of movement is required to make alternating closures of the paddles in order to make timely contact closures of the contacts. If you don't make timely closures, your individual characters will be 'broken' into two separate characters, rather than being one complete character. Also, many ops prefer to use the sides of their fingers to press against the paddles. I've always found that the tips of my fingers have more verve endings and that I have a finer paddle control if I use the tips of my fingers (thumb and index finger) to key. 6. Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? Kind of like soldering Even more demanding than soldering! But equally more fun as well. Even after 48 years of hamming I still find myself (esp. when the bands are dead) sitting in front of the K2 (in CW TEST mode), sending text out of QST into the air of the shack, just purely for fun and practice. 7. A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this skill. But, at one time, I did have a pre
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
Don Wilhelm wrote: [...] > change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for > this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes). I'm guessing you could order 2 * E560002 if you really wanted. For what it's worth, most recent E560002 "1N4148" diodes seem to be actually "PH4148", which I assume is close enough. -- "Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] Who can I blame for my own problems? I'll find someone. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. K2
> -Original Message- > KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000 > KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000 > KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199 > but are there any upgrades to the un built modules? KSB2: I am aware of the ALC upgrade mod for the KSB2 dated Sept 2001, see http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html and go to "3. Modifications that took place for various serial numbers prior to 3000." Then there is also the change of default filter bandwidth from 1.9 kHz to 2.2 (go to "1. General modifications applicable to any K2", press KSB2 and go to item 2: Crystal filter bandwidth modification). This requires a new set of filter capacitors which I believe are available from Elecraft. There is a large number of user modifications to the KSB2 that have been proposed and which are documented on this page. It may be a bit confusing, but the two above should be the only ones that are in the newest version of the KSB2 as far as I know. In my view, the KSB2 is probably the option board for the K2 which could need an official update as some of these modifications are really worthwhile doing. KNB2: The KNB2 was changed also at one point in time, but I believe that was almost immediately after its release and most likely prior to your KNB2. You should be able to tell when you look at your kit. If the manual tells you to put R's where there are C's marked on the PCB or vice versa, then you have the updated version which still uses the original PCB. KAT2: No changes 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. K2
I have built K2 4670 working great, soon to add the 100W/tuner. To learn more about this wonderful hobby, I also just bought an original K2 # 389 with the internal battery kit. This will be my QRP radio. This is also obviously a Rev A model. It came with the following un built modules. KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000 KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000 KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199 >From the Elecraft web site, there are obvious upgrades (A-B kit and all the others) that I will incorporate, but are there any upgrades to the un built modules? Or after doing all the basic K2 mods, should I buy the latest modules to this K2? All suggestions/plan of action as to a course of action would be appreciated. 73, Allan Bacon KI4HRN -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 6:06 PM To: Craig Black; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2 Craig, If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2 no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too - including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensation change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes). You will end up with a K2 that performs just like a new one - it will only have a few more components mounted on the bottom of the board, and you will not have an AGC Threshold pot (unless you squeeze a tiny trimmer in there). Do change the Filter crystals too. No-one will know it has been upgraded unless they know what to look for. I can supply photos of my fully upgraded SN 0020 should there be any doubt. As far as a new K2 - well, if you want 2 of them, then the upgrade plus the new build is the only way to go for economy. I don't know what financial constraints you may have, but the outlay for an upgraded K2 plus a new K2 will certainly be less than buying 2 new ones! 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want > to do" bucket, but make it factual. > > I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It > has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have > a KX1 and a T1) > > Should I; > 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are > about $140 total)...or > 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ? > > The end results are of course different as in #2 I > would have 2 K2's. > > Are there any comments on installing the full boat of > upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ? > > Thanks > Craig > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
Craig, If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2 no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too - including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensation change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes). You will end up with a K2 that performs just like a new one - it will only have a few more components mounted on the bottom of the board, and you will not have an AGC Threshold pot (unless you squeeze a tiny trimmer in there). Do change the Filter crystals too. No-one will know it has been upgraded unless they know what to look for. I can supply photos of my fully upgraded SN 0020 should there be any doubt. As far as a new K2 - well, if you want 2 of them, then the upgrade plus the new build is the only way to go for economy. I don't know what financial constraints you may have, but the outlay for an upgraded K2 plus a new K2 will certainly be less than buying 2 new ones! 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want > to do" bucket, but make it factual. > > I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It > has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have > a KX1 and a T1) > > Should I; > 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are > about $140 total)...or > 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ? > > The end results are of course different as in #2 I > would have 2 K2's. > > Are there any comments on installing the full boat of > upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ? > > Thanks > Craig > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
At 12:18 PM 1/6/2006, Craig Black wrote: >1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are >about $140 total)...or >2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ? If you buy the new one you'll eventually end up doing the upgrade on the old one. The upgrade process was fun - I think you end up learning even more in the upgrade process about the rig, because there is a 'why' for each mod. Building a new one is fun, too. So do both. GL! - jeff wk6i -- Jeff Stai [EMAIL PROTECTED] Twisted Oak Winery http://www.twistedoak.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
One thing Wayne/Eric have been scrupulous about is to offer mods/updates to current K2 owners so their rigs work every bit as well as the latest one shipped. So you can't make your choice based on any possible performance improvement of a newer K2 over your older one if you have done the updates and mods. That said, what's not to like about having two K2s??? And if you like to build, what's not to enjoy in assembling another one to get that second K2. Good rigs are like pretty girls or beautiful sunsets. They don't need to be justified. They are reason enough just being there... Ron AC7AC -Original Message- This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want to do" bucket, but make it factual. I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have a KX1 and a T1) Should I; 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are about $140 total)...or 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ? The end results are of course different as in #2 I would have 2 K2's. Are there any comments on installing the full boat of upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ? Thanks ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
Did you build #1014? I did not build my #1117 but I did to some serious repair work on it. I then added the noise blanker, KPA-100, SSB and KAF-2. I did the A to B upgrade and all the other mods. If I was facing your decision and I could afford it I would build a NEW K2 so I can have the satisfaction of a 100% self built Elecraft rig. It is much easier and more fun to build from scratch than you go back in and modify a rig that was already built (IMHO). Also if I bought a new K2 and it didn't include it already I would add the magnetic shield mod. You can always sell your #1014. Also..the new K2's come with the chassis for the 60M accessory where your 1014 and my 1117 would need to have the bottom cover replaced. Go for the new Craig! Elecraft can use the extra money to invest in inventory for the new auto-tune high power amp kits! LOL. 73 de Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: "Craig Black" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 3:18 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2 > This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want > to do" bucket, but make it factual. > > I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It > has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have > a KX1 and a T1) > > Should I; > 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are > about $140 total)...or > 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ? > > The end results are of course different as in #2 I > would have 2 K2's. > > Are there any comments on installing the full boat of > upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ? > > Thanks > Craig > > > > __ > Yahoo! DSL - Something to write home about. > Just $16.99/mo. or less. > dsl.yahoo.com > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want to do" bucket, but make it factual. I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have a KX1 and a T1) Should I; 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are about $140 total)...or 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ? The end results are of course different as in #2 I would have 2 K2's. Are there any comments on installing the full boat of upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ? Thanks Craig __ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic
Jim and all, If you ordered the Heil ProSet-K2 that Elecraft is selling (or any other Heil manufactured product that Elecraft sells), you have no need for concern. All those microphones are made with elements designed specifically for the K2. It is only folks with the Heil products using the HC-4 or HC-5 mic elements who need be concerned about the output level - but Elecraft does not sell those. In the specific case of the ProSet-K2, notice the following words on the Elecraft Product page "Flexible Boom comes equipped with Heil Optimized Condenser Element for the K2". Also note that the Elecraft adapter is included, so it will connect to the mic jack if you have the configuration header wired for the Elecraft mics (header jumpered straight across and the 5.6k resistor wired between pin 6 and pin 1 of the mic jack). Most of the posts on this subject are to help those few folks who have the non-K2 Heil products by offering alternatives that may work for them (short of purchasing a new mic). 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now seeing posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being specifically designed for the K2. I was informed by Elecraft that the headset by Heil is on back order. Maybe I am premature in worrying. Can someone summarize the problem with the headset mic by Heil and what the issues appear to be ? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic
Jim, >From what I have read on the Elecraft reflector, people are saying that they cannot "talk up" the K2 to full output with Heil mics. I have been using the Heil Proset Plus headset / boom mic with the HC-4 and HC-5 elements with my K2/100, and have no problem at all in getting full 100W out - even though I am supposed to have a "quiet" voice. Although the Heil mics have lower output than many, there seems to be - at least in my K2 - ample gain in the transmitter chain to make up. So I am not yet at all convinced that the Heil mic is the whole problem. 73, GeoffGM4ESD K2/100 3255 - Original Message - From: "jim danehy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:39 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic I thought I posted a similar message yesterday but it did not show up. Probably an error on my part. But if it shows . . . oh well . . I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now seeing posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being specifically designed for the K2. I was informed by Elecraft that the headset by Heil is on back order. Maybe I am premature in worrying. Can someone summarize the problem with the headset mic by Heil and what the issues appear to be ? I have been told that I have a booming voice (pun intended) and that is why I bought the mic specifically designed by Heil for the K2. I really do not like desk mics or hand held mics. I built my K2 4 years ago. I can do without SSB but now I want to do some PSK. Probably will try some SSB after a 14 year layoff. So I went with the PRO K2. Maybe I will bootleg someone's call rather than use my own on SSB. W9VNE Jim Danehy Cincinnati, Ohio ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic
I thought I posted a similar message yesterday but it did not show up. Probably an error on my part. But if it shows . . . oh well . . I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now seeing posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being specifically designed for the K2. I was informed by Elecraft that the headset by Heil is on back order. Maybe I am premature in worrying. Can someone summarize the problem with the headset mic by Heil and what the issues appear to be ? I have been told that I have a booming voice (pun intended) and that is why I bought the mic specifically designed by Heil for the K2. I really do not like desk mics or hand held mics. I built my K2 4 years ago. I can do without SSB but now I want to do some PSK. Probably will try some SSB after a 14 year layoff. So I went with the PRO K2. Maybe I will bootleg someone's call rather than use my own on SSB. W9VNE Jim Danehy Cincinnati, Ohio ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com