Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Scott via Elecraft]

I guess since the thread is still alive, and because I use my Elecraft rigs 
 with said tower :) I'll wade in here, because I spent a fair amount of 
time  researching this two years ago before reinstalling my Wilson TT-45, which 
is  very similar.
 
Everyone is right, one way or the other.  The tower wind curve I have  
shows 3 square feet of wind load for a total tower height of 43 feet in a  78 
mph wind.
 
Another 50 mph curve supplied with the rotating base is done at 50 mph, and 
 says 12 square feet at a total height of 45 feet.
 
But both curves, as well as the more recent US Tower data, rely on the use  
of a house bracket in the analysis.
 
A much more recent US Tower doc shows 4.8 square feet of wind load, for 85  
MPH 3 second gusts, but with the tower at a height of 21 feet.  This was  
from a California PE analysis, and it also referenced the house bracket.
 
So the answer, "it depends" depends on at least wind speed (or gust) used,  
what base, the use of a house bracket, height of the mast in the top 
section,  and what the current sq ft numbers for your antenna happen to be, 
which 
seem to  be changing in some cases :).
 
After crunching some numbers, I decided to limit my use to 34 feet  
self-supporting with a hex and a rotating base .  It's definitely worth  doing 
the 
math.
 
I'm happy to share PDF's of the reference stuff with anyone that needs  it.
 
Scott ka9p (sorry Eric)
 
 
In a message dated 7/13/2016 5:08:53 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
w6vy...@gmail.com writes:

Hi  Mike,
I don't know where the 3 SQ-FT comes from.  US Tower does not  publish 
ratings for the MA series any longer.  I have had an MA-40 since  1982 and at 
that time the rating was 10 SQ-FT @ 50 MPH winds fully  extended.  I have 
confirmed this with US Tower in the past. I was also  told at that time that 
they do not rate the tower retracted.  There have  been some new regulations 
concerning tower ratings in the past couple which is  probably why they do not 
list it now.  I have had a 3 Element SteppIR on  this tower since 2006. The 
HRO website still lists the rating at 10  SQ-FT.


That being said, I do retract the tower if winds of  50 MPH are predicted 
or if I am leaving for any length of time.  My base  is 3 X 3 X 5 which was 
recommended at that time and I have the drawings for  that.

I think the 3 SQ is indicating the size of the extended portion  which is 3 
inches square.




Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47  -0700 (MST)
From: Mike  K2MK<k...@comcast.net>
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re:  [Elecraft] Need advice on Small  Tower
Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi Terry,

I'm moving and I've just  sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator
base. It's a fine tower for  small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at
3sqft load when the tower is  cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2
element SteppIR yagi on it and  I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30
mph were  forecasted.

Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks  easily but
requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and  back up
requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree  angle. I
would have liked to have a power driven winch for that  operation.

The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of  rebar. I'm selling
my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so  that I could
replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12"  then it did
for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place.  I'm 
thankful
I didn't have to any of the work.

This mast can  actually be handled by one person if you have moderate
equipment to help. I  had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a
Harbor Freight 1 ton  shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery
truck and helping to  engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit.
With two people it's a  very simple job. All of my experiences were good and
given the opportunity  I would not hesitate to purchase another one.

I have a personal website  with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you
want the link.
k2mk at  comcast dot net

73,
Mike  K2MK

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Niel Skousen]

I would be interested in the website / picture from anyone on this thread. 

I was given an older Wilson version of the MA40, and am working on the install 
now.  Any advice or input would be appreciated. 

Niel
WA7SSA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 13, 2016, at 05:01, Mike K2MK  wrote:
> 
> Hi Terry,
> 
> I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator
> base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at
> 3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2
> element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30
> mph were forecasted.
> 
> Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but
> requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up
> requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I
> would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation.
> 
> The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling
> my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could
> replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did
> for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful
> I didn't have to any of the work.
> 
> This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate
> equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a
> Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery
> truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit.
> With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and
> given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one.
> 
> I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you
> want the link.
> k2mk at comcast dot net
> 
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
> 
> 
> Terry Brown wrote
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
>> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
>> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
>> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On
>> the
>> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
>> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
>> 
>> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
>> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
>> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
>> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
>> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again. 
>> My
>> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
>> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be
>> about
>> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S
>> with
>> the tower on the west side of the house.  
>> 
>> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
>> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the
>> US
>> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
>> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
>> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
>> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft.
>> which
>> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting
>> to
>> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to
>> physically
>> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
>> questions:
>> 
>> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
>> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna
>> on
>> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be
>> the
>> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
>> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 
>> 
>> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
>> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
>> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
>> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of
>> installation.
>> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.
>> 
>> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
>> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
>> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
>> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
>> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
>> 
>> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
>> length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 

Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Robert Dorchuck]

Hi Mike,
I don't know where the 3 SQ-FT comes from.  US Tower does not publish ratings 
for the MA series any longer.  I have had an MA-40 since 1982 and at that time 
the rating was 10 SQ-FT @ 50 MPH winds fully extended.  I have confirmed this 
with US Tower in the past. I was also told at that time that they do not rate 
the tower retracted.  There have been some new regulations concerning tower 
ratings in the past couple which is probably why they do not list it now.  I 
have had a 3 Element SteppIR on this tower since 2006. The HRO website still 
lists the rating at 10 SQ-FT.
 


That being said, I do retract the tower if winds of 50 MPH are predicted or if 
I am leaving for any length of time.  My base is 3 X 3 X 5 which was 
recommended at that time and I have the drawings for that.

I think the 3 SQ is indicating the size of the extended portion which is 3 
inches square.




Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47 -0700 (MST)
From: Mike K2MK<k...@comcast.net>
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi Terry,

I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator
base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at
3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2
element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30
mph were forecasted.

Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but
requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up
requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I
would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation.

The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling
my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could
replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did
for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful
I didn't have to any of the work.

This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate
equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a
Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery
truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit.
With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and
given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one.

I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you
want the link.
k2mk at comcast dot net

73,
Mike K2MK

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Terry,

I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator
base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at
3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2
element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30
mph were forecasted.

Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but
requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up
requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I
would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation.

The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling
my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could
replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did
for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful
I didn't have to any of the work.

This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate
equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a
Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery
truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit.
With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and
given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one.

I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you
want the link.
k2mk at comcast dot net

73,
Mike K2MK


Terry Brown wrote
> Hello all,
> 
> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On
> the
> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
> 
> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again. 
> My
> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be
> about
> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S
> with
> the tower on the west side of the house.  
> 
> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the
> US
> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft.
> which
> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting
> to
> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to
> physically
> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> questions:
> 
> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna
> on
> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be
> the
> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 
> 
> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of
> installation.
> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.
> 
> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
> 
> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
> length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft.
> suspended
> from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a
> 4:1
> balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with
> 20
> or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
> vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and
> S
> side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners
> for
> my horizontal loop.  

Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Anthony Scandurra]

Terry,

If you check out my QRZ page, you'll note that I have a USTower TMM-541SS
with a Yaesu G1000DXA rotator and a Force12 XR6 topping it off.

https://www.qrz.com/db/K4QE

The antenna is at 47 feet AGL and it covers 20 thru 6 with one coax.

The TMM-541SS nests down to 12 feet, and I also have the tilt-over kit.

I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about it.

73, Tony K4QE

On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

>
> > There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the
> > venerable TA-33.
>
> Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and
> 10 meters.  Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on)
> option.  Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they
> they have boom lengths equal or less than the TA-33/TA-33jr and the
> full size elements mean they are much more efficient than the Mosley
> antennas.
>
> The Force 12 or Navassa provide full performance on up to six bands
> in a package the size and weight of the TA-33 (or TA33JR-WARC).
>
> 73,
>
>... Joe, W4TV
>
>
>
> On 7/12/2016 9:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
>
>> Hello Terry,
>>
>> In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower
>> is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along
>> the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the
>> antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you
>> any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some
>> distance from the house.
>>
>> Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of
>> the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive,
>> though.
>>
>> I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will
>> have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may
>> find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger,
>> but has a wider bandwidth.
>>
>> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the
>> venerable TA-33.
>>
>> Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus.
>> In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time.
>>
>> 73,
>> Vic, 4X6GP
>> Rehovot, Israel
>> Formerly K2VCO
>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>>
>> On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
>>> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
>>> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
>>> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.
>>> On the
>>> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
>>> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
>>>
>>> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
>>> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower
>>> setup.
>>> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
>>> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
>>> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower
>>> again.  My
>>> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
>>> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be
>>> about
>>> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S
>>> with
>>> the tower on the west side of the house.  \
>>>
>>> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
>>> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen
>>> the US
>>> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
>>> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
>>> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not
>>> being
>>> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft.
>>> which
>>> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when
>>> transmitting to
>>> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to
>>> physically
>>> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
>>> questions:
>>>
>>> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
>>> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive
>>> antenna on
>>> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will
>>> be the
>>> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
>>> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
>>>
>>> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US
>>> Tower is
>>> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
>>> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
>>> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of
>>> installation.
>>> A triangular 

Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Arthur Nienhouse]

Many years ago I replaced a TA 33 with a Force 12 C3,  I saw one db 
improvement in signals testing 15 meters and 20 meters ( before then 
after) with a station 30 miles away, it was even on 10 meters, in all 
ways of comparison it was better, I later put the 40 meter element on it 
which had its own feed line simply a great antenna is my report, which 
proved out chasing dx before then after how many tries how much power.


On a tower I would also check out the aluminum crank up getting the pro 
and con input from others a friend had one many years ago was happy with it.
If the antenna at low rest height is right you work on the antenna from 
the roof a benefit of putting it by the house.





Regards
Art
ka9zap



On 7/12/2016 8:44 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be
able to work a lot of stations with this setup.  Before buying the antenna
I would suggest that you read the tribander test report.
http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2

John KK9A

from: Terry Brown n7tb
Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016

Hello all,



I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
questions:



1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.


I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
been spoiled with that setup over the years.


Thanks in advance to you all.



73's,



Terry Brown, N7TB

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[David Ahrendts]

Terry, with the assistance and skill of the legendary Skip, KJ6Y, I have just 
had installed the US Tower MA-40, and cannot recommend it more highly 
especially for a tight urban lot. The tubular tower easily supports a 63-pound 
SteppIR DB-11 plus a smaller 40M rotatable MFJ dipole.  It rests when I’m not 
operating at the roof level, and rises to well above roof line (2 story house) 
fully extended. This is a mighty little tower. Happy to round up some still 
shots for you off-list if you wish.

David Ahrendts, KK6DA, Los Angeles 



> Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> 
> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> questions:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
> 
> 
> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance to you all.
> 
> 
> 
> 73's,
> 
> 
> 
> Terry Brown, N7TB
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   




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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the
> venerable TA-33.

Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and
10 meters.  Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on)
option.  Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they
they have boom lengths equal or less than the TA-33/TA-33jr and the
full size elements mean they are much more efficient than the Mosley
antennas.

The Force 12 or Navassa provide full performance on up to six bands
in a package the size and weight of the TA-33 (or TA33JR-WARC).

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 7/12/2016 9:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:

Hello Terry,

In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower
is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along
the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the
antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you
any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some
distance from the house.

Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of
the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive,
though.

I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will
have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may
find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger,
but has a wider bandwidth.

There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the
venerable TA-33.

Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus.
In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote:

Hello all,

I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.
On the
tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
and tower  date from the time I became a ham.

I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower
setup.
My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower
again.  My
home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be
about
32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S
with
the tower on the west side of the house.  \

I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen
the US
Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not
being
visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft.
which
would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when
transmitting to
the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to
physically
crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
questions:

1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive
antenna on
20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will
be the
direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.

2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US
Tower is
just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of
installation.
A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.

I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
been spoiled with that setup over the years.

Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft.
suspended
from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into
a 4:1
balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters
with 20
or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can
put a
vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on 

[Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[j...@kk9a.com]

The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be
able to work a lot of stations with this setup.  Before buying the antenna
I would suggest that you read the tribander test report.
http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2

John KK9A

from: Terry Brown n7tb
Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016

Hello all,



I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
questions:



1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.


I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
been spoiled with that setup over the years.


Thanks in advance to you all.



73's,



Terry Brown, N7TB

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Dave Fugleberg]

I don't have the tilt base. I bought my MA40 and beam used, so not sure of
its age. Quality seems fine.
I made an adapter for a cordless drill to allow me to crank it up and down
without cranking.
Vic is correct that the TA33Jr is a little more narrow banded than some
leather beams. However, I use it successfully on both CW and SSB without a
tuner. It has a lot less wind load than a full sized triband beam, which is
important with a tower of that type if the rotor is placed at the top as I
have it.
Might not be as big an issue if you rotate the whole tower.
On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 8:28 AM Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Don't discount the Hex Beam concept.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>   From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP <k2vco@gmail.com>
>  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown <n...@comcast.net>
>  Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
>
> Hello Terry,
>
> In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower
> is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along
> the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the
> antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you
> any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some
> distance from the house.
>
> Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of
> the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive,
> though.
>
> I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will
> have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may
> find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger,
> but has a wider bandwidth.
>
> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the
> venerable TA-33.
>
> Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus.
> In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time.
>
> 73,
> Vic, 4X6GP
> Rehovot, Israel
> Formerly K2VCO
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>
> On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote:
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
> > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
> > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
> > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On
> the
> > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
> > and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
> >
> > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
> > Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower
> setup.
> > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.  The view to the east is
> > amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
> > rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.  I don't want to have to climb a tower again.
> My
> > home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
> > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be
> about
> > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S
> with
> > the tower on the west side of the house.  \
> >
> > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> > smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the
> US
> > Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not
> being
> > visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft.
> which
> > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting
> to
> > the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to
> physically
> > crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> > questions:
> >
> > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> > the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive
> antenna on
> > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be
> the
> > direction of most of my mainland US contacts.  To the N-W-S, the antenna
> > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
> >
> > 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower
> is
> > just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
> > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.

Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Don't discount the Hex Beam concept.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP <k2vco@gmail.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown <n...@comcast.net> 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
   
Hello Terry,

In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower 
is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along 
the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the 
antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you 
any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some 
distance from the house.

Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of 
the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, 
though.

I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will 
have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may 
find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, 
but has a wider bandwidth.

There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the 
venerable TA-33.

Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. 
In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On the
> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
>
> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.  The view to the east is
> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.  I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
> the tower on the west side of the house.  \
>
> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> questions:
>
> 1.    Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.  To the N-W-S, the antenna
> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
>
> 2.    I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.  I think a tubular
> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation.
> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.
>
> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
>
> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
> length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
> from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
> balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
> or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
> vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
> side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
> my hori

Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Hello Terry,

In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower 
is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along 
the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the 
antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you 
any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some 
distance from the house.


Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of 
the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, 
though.


I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will 
have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may 
find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, 
but has a wider bandwidth.


There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the 
venerable TA-33.


Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. 
In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote:

Hello all,

I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On the
tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
and tower  date from the time I became a ham.

I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
the tower on the west side of the house.  \

I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
questions:

1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.

2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation.
A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.

I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
been spoiled with that setup over the years.

Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
my horizontal loop.  I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE
corner.   I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being
horizontally polarized.  My current one works great so I want the same thing
for my new QTH.

I look forward to getting some great input from this group.  I have been
amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group.

Thanks in advance to you all.
73's,
Terry Brown, N7TB

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[pkhjr via Elecraft]

I also moved and down sized my antenna/tower.  I put up 40' of my 70' Rohn
25.  I added a hazer and can bring the antenna down to the ground, no
climbing.  I added a worm gear to the hazer and am able to run the hazer
with a battery operated drill. I thought about having the tower attached to
the side of the house but that would mean climbing on the roof (high pitch)
to get to the antenna.  My 3el steppir is below the trees and works just
fine.

73 Tex
ka5y



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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Dave Fugleberg]

Terry - My tower is a MA-40, bracketed to the end of my garage, with a
rotor and TA-33Jr on top.
I've worked 200 DXCC entities with it at 100 watts from here in the RF
black hole of Minnesota, so it seems like an effective setup for me.
It's not a 'super station' but I have plenty of fun with it (and my K3/P3!).
73 de W0ZF
On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 8:22 PM Terry Brown  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
>
>
> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On
> the
> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
>
>
>
> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
> the tower on the west side of the house.
>
>
>
> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> questions:
>
>
>
> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna
> on
> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be
> the
> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
>
>
>
> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of
> installation.
> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.
>
>
>
> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
>
>
>
> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
> length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
> from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
> balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
> or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
> vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
> side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
> my horizontal loop.  I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the
> NE
> corner.   I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being
> horizontally polarized.  My current one works great so I want the same
> thing
> for my new QTH.
>
>
>
> I look forward to getting some great input from this group.  I have been
> amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance to you all.
>
>
>
> 73's,
>
>
>
> Terry Brown, N7TB
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Terry Brown]

Hello all,

 

I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On the
tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
and tower  date from the time I became a ham.

 

I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
the tower on the west side of the house.  

 

I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
questions:

 

1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 

 

2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation.
A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.

 

I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
been spoiled with that setup over the years.

 

Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
my horizontal loop.  I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE
corner.   I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being
horizontally polarized.  My current one works great so I want the same thing
for my new QTH.  

 

I look forward to getting some great input from this group.  I have been
amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group.

 

Thanks in advance to you all.

 

73's,

 

Terry Brown, N7TB

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Ed,

I did the Synth upgrade (= improvement) and the 2nd preamp for the 
higher bands (= a very necessary feature)


That's it for me.

73

Arie PA3A




Op 2-5-2016 om 20:49 schreef Ed via Elecraft:

I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It seems 
cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to 
send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc.

In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?

Thanks,
Ed NI6S



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[Elecraft] Need Advice - K3+

[Johnny Siu via Elecraft]

Hello Ed,
I have the feeling that K3S is transition model before any evolution product 
from Elecraft.  Or it is a way to extend the current K3 product life cycle - a 
classic business school case.
Hence, I tend to not heavily invest for a new K3S.  I did the KSYN3A upgrade 
which is crucial to the enhancement of performance.  The installation is easy.
73
Johnny VR2XMC

  寄件人︰ Phil Wheeler <w...@socal.rr.com>
 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 傳送日期︰ 2016年05月3日 (週二) 5:03 AM
 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
   
That's working well for me, Ed.

73, Phil W7OX


On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:
> I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It 
> seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am 
> about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc.
>
> In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed NI6S

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

There is an alternative approach.  I have an early K3 and found a version of 
the SW that does everything I like and I stopped updating.  My feelings go this 
way.  At some time I will send it in for some reason and have them bring it up 
to current.  Until then I am a very happy camper.  It is not broke so I won't 
attempt fixing it... NUF said.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 3:33 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
   
U think you'll have more than 90%.  I installed the new synth myself. 
Second hardest part was disconnecting all the wires behind my 
"wireless," and the hardest part was reconnecting them.  You have to do 
that if you send it in as well.  The actual install was very 
straightforward and easy.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 5/2/2016 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:
> I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.
> It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a
> K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP
> board swap, etc.
>
> In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?
>
> Thanks, Ed NI6S
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[Fred Jensen]

U think you'll have more than 90%.  I installed the new synth myself. 
Second hardest part was disconnecting all the wires behind my 
"wireless," and the hardest part was reconnecting them.  You have to do 
that if you send it in as well.  The actual install was very 
straightforward and easy.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 5/2/2016 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:

I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.
It seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a
K3S. I am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP
board swap, etc.

In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?

Thanks, Ed NI6S

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[Ron Litt]

had my k3 about three years now. I have always kept up with upgrades.
hardware and sw.

seems like the best way to protect my investment and keep it current.

I do the hardware upgrades myself.  saves shipping cost and time.  it is
not hard to do ur self.

ron

On Mon, May 2, 2016, 16:06 Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> That's working well for me, Ed.
>
> 73, Phil W7OX
>
>
> On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:
> > I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It
> seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I
> am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap,
> etc.
> >
> > In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ed NI6S
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[Phil Wheeler]

That's working well for me, Ed.

73, Phil W7OX


On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:

I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It seems 
cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to 
send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc.

In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?

Thanks,
Ed NI6S


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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

You’ll have more than 90% of a K3S if you have kept up with the mods and 
offered upgrades over time.

The main differences would be (1) an improved 4-layer RF board with a reduced 
noise profile, (2) improved (lower) IMD in the audio section of the new DSP 
board for speaker outputs (this was supposed to be made available for the K3, 
but nothing has been heard about it’s status), (3) “hard” switching to bypass 
the new tuner module, and (4) a fancier escutcheon.

Everyone’s mileage varies on this, of course.  I have elected to keep my 
fully-loaded and fully-upgraded K3 and not go through the exercise of 
"unbundling”  the installed options, selling the barebones K3, buying and 
rebuilding a K3S. and ending up in the hole financially.  I think the 
differences would be completely unnoticeable by most, even if it makes them 
feel better about their place in the world :-)

I’m saving the $$ involved and putting them in the 
whatever-the-next-major-Elecraft-radio-is piggy bank :-)

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342




> On May 2, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Ed via Elecraft  wrote:
> 
> I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It 
> seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am 
> about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. 
> 
> In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice

[Ken G Kopp]

Hi Ed!

I took the same route with K3 #0056 and am very pleased.  Would do the same
again.

73

Ken - K0PP
On May 2, 2016 12:51, "Ed via Elecraft"  wrote:

> I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It
> seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I
> am about to send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap,
> etc.
>
> In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed NI6S
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[Elecraft] Need Advice

[Ed via Elecraft]

I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date.  It seems 
cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to 
send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc. 

In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?

Thanks,
Ed NI6S
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[Elecraft] Need advice for K3 and RX BC AM

[Jo, YC0LOW]

My Elecraft K3 has no AM filters installed. I tried to RX AM broadcast
stations on MW band but had no success.
I'd be grateful if you could advice me to add it on, or, is there a way to
do it as is, now pse?
I need it as features to check the 160m RX antenna directions in the coming
YB8Y DXpedition (OC-221, GL PI64mh) starts in March 20th. 2012 .

Tnx es 73 de Jo, YC0LOW
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice for K3 and RX BC AM

[Don Wilhelm]

Jo,

Without adding the 6 kHz or 13 kHz filter, AM reception may be done 
using the 2.7 (or 2.8) kHz filter for Synchronous AM reception.  That 
gives you a full 2.7 kHz audio width instead of constraining it to half 
that width when using regular AM demodulation.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/12/2012 5:17 AM, Jo, YC0LOW wrote:
 My Elecraft K3 has no AM filters installed. I tried to RX AM broadcast
 stations on MW band but had no success.
 I'd be grateful if you could advice me to add it on, or, is there a way to
 do it as is, now pse?
 I need it as features to check the 160m RX antenna directions in the coming
 YB8Y DXpedition (OC-221, GL PI64mh) starts in March 20th. 2012 .

 Tnx es 73 de Jo, YC0LOW

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Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig

[ka9zap]

Hi Susan

I would also suggest playing with the RX eq I have serial # 3142 before 
the DSP change and found
that for my taste I liked the RX better if I pulled down the top two 
bands (#7) 2.4 kHz and
(#8) 3.2 kHz to  -5  this takes some of the high end shisssh hiss off 
receiver.
With a couple of (one time)  menu changes  you might find things better 
suited for you listening
pleasure.

If you rig is a later one the DSP board could be the latest one that 
will be better on your ears but if
its the earlier one then I think pulling down top two bands on the RX eq 
just might help you find the
feel / sound your looking for.

If you have K3ez utility loaded on your computer its easy to set the RX 
eq, if not use the [MENU]
tap to get to the main menu settings Page 52 on my manual revision D4.
Rotate the sub VFO B until you see RX EQ then press number the # key you 
want to change with the
VFO A knob setting the new value.
I have both 3.2  2.4 pulled down to -5 ...

Hope this makes sense and is something you can try Susan

Here is my subjective opinion I have had for the past 3 years plus a 
FT2000 DMU U-tuning kit
40/80 station, along came the K3  the born on date June 13 09 since 
having the K3 on
the air and doing a lot of A/B testing on RX the only thing I found to 
complain about with the K3
was the (thin) receive audio doing mostly cw this did not make that much 
difference to me. I did
the RX eq adjustment and have only transmitted on the FT2k 4 times all 
total now since the (Born
On Date) of the K3 there simply is no comparison in performance when 
push comes to shove
between these two radios.
Size was going to be an issue before I got my K3 running was my 
(preconceived opinion) but when
I started to play with the K3 size became a (no issue) right off.
After the first 6 months of A/B receive testing I hardly ever turn on my 
twice broke Yaesu on it's
a back up I don't think I will need anytime soon.

The only thing I miss is not having a triple band stacking register like 
the other radios in this class,
size and wait are a trade off and not a bad one at that.
This radio keeps evolving which is a very big plus no need to sell at 
half price to get the next
offering like the big 2 seem to have there customers doing every 2 1/2 
years or so.

Try setting you RX eq and see if this will help you find the sound your 
looking for.

88
Regards
Art
ka9zap

 -Original Message-
 rig

 Aloha:
I have had my K3 since last October.  I think I have given it a fair
 trail.  It is just too darned complicated for me.  I have never been able to
 get it to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.

 I think I want to get rid of it.

 Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase?

 Susan

 If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're
 headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM
 USSV DHARMA 


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[Elecraft] need advice on rig

[ussv dharma]

Aloha:
  I have had my K3 since last October.  I think I have given it a fair trail.  
It is just too darned complicated for me.  I have never been able to get it to 
give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.

I think I want to get rid of it.

Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase?

Susan

If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're 
headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV 
DHARMA 


--- On Fri, 8/20/10, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 8:49 AM
 
   Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or
 other audio rack
   gear?
 
 Why bother?  The K3 already provides all of the
 capability of the
 W2IHY 8 band EQ/noise gate, adds downward expansion in the
 noise
 gate and there is no issue with external hum loops, RF
 pick-up, etc.
 
   I'm still waiting for my K3 to get back from the
 factory, but I plan
   on running the full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil
 GM-5 Mic.
 
 I've used wide range (broadcast style) mics and the Heil
 HC-5 element
 with the K3's internal EQ and find that configuring the K3
 for a 6 dB
 per octave roll off below 400 Hz (50 Hz: -16dB, 100 Hz:
 -12dB, 200 Hz:
 -6 dB), a -6dB notch at 800 Hz and 6 dB per octave rise
 above 1000 Hz
 (1600 Hz: +6dB, 2400 Hz: +10dB, 3200 Hz: +12dB) yields
 extremely good
 audio reports with the broadcast mic and a lot of
 presence without
 the restricted sound on the HC-5.
 
 Coupled with CMP at 25, this provides plenty of punch
 without
 sounding over processed and all highs like the HC-4.
 
 73,
 
     ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 8/20/2010 11:54 AM, Tim Tucker wrote:
  Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or
 other audio rack gear?  If
  so, I'm curious as to the settings you ended up with
 on the rig.  I'm still
  waiting for my K3 to get back from the factory, but I
 plan on running the
  full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil GM-5 Mic.  I
 imagine I will probably
  end up with the comp and EQ on the rig turned off, but
 I'd like to hear what
  others do.
 
  Tim
  AE6LX
 
  On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Philippe
 Trottettrot...@unhcr.org 
 wrote:
 
  Hi James,
  I'm using MH2 also for Field day opertions and
 almost same as you, set
  MIC=2  COMP=20  TX equalizer has
 been adjust to my loud voice given
    preferential to medium high
 audio. Great
  73's
  Philippe A65BI
  K3#3616
 
  k2qi@gmail.com 
 20-08-2010 18:54
  Who uses the Elecraft hand mic? I do and mic gain
 has to be set low; i.e.
  around 8 or 9 to prevent clipping and flat
 topping  as viewed on a monitor
  scope.  This is with mic sensitivity set to
 low in the menu.  I was once
  told that the hand mics are a tad hot, but mine
 seems to be excessively so.
 
  Regardless, my comp is set to 15 or 20 and I get
 excellent audio reports.
 
  James K2QI
  Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Stephen  Priors...@sjprior.fsnet.co.uk
  Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:21:00
  To: elecraftelecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation
 
  I use the Heil MD2 microphone which has an
 electret element.  I have both
  compression and mic gain set to 25, and mic set to
 front panel low with
  bias.
 
  I have far more 'talk power' than I have enjoyed
 with any previous radio.
 
  73 Stephen G4SJP
 
 
  On 20/08/2010 04:24, Joseph Trombino, Jrw...@bellsouth.net 
 wrote:
 
 
  Hi
 
  We are the proud owners of 6 K3/100 used
 at the FY5KE contest station.
  These radios has been delivered around
 mid-2008 and their serial numbers
  are in the 012xx range.
 
  After using mostly these rigs for SSB
 contesting in FY5KE or in other
  places, we are still facing a lack of
 dynamics, punch,
  penetration, power, whatever you call
 it. In other words, when
  comparing this rig to our radios we
 previously used (TS-850), with the
  same microphone (Heil HC-4 element) and
 the same output RF power, the K3
  is clearly way behind in term of average
 power we can read on the Bird
  wattmeter wired on its RF output. Even if
 observing the wattmeter needle
  is not a very scientific measurement (we
 admit it), various comparative
  reports on the air do confirm our
 feeling.
 
  We spent time on various available
 settings (mic gain, compressor level,
  etc), with no luck, excepted a very
 distorted and awful audio to roughly
  reach the same level, which is not
 acceptable.
 
  After a little Googling, it appears that
 other contesters suffers the
  same issue (e.g.
 www.bavarian-contest-club.de/projects/K3_english.pdf
  pages 6 and 10).
 
  Some questions :
 
  - Do other contesters (or not) here have
 noted the same problem ?
  - What settings did you modified (or not)
 to achieve a good result ?
  - Is there any possible HW or SW upgrade
 we 

Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig

[kk5na]

Hi Susan,

I love my K3 and it may be worth you trying a little longer to get used
too.  

And if I were going to step down in quality to me the next best rig
is the Elecraft K2...not as complicated but a great CW rig.

Joe KK5NA


On Fri, 2010-08-20 at 12:04 -0700, ussv dharma wrote:
 Aloha:
   I have had my K3 since last October.  I think I have given it a fair trail. 
  It is just too darned complicated for me.  I have never been able to get it 
 to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.
 
 I think I want to get rid of it.
 
 Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase?
 
 Susan
 
 If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! 
 Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV DHARMA 
 
 
 --- On Fri, 8/20/10, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
 
  From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 8:49 AM
  
Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or
  other audio rack
gear?
  
  Why bother?  The K3 already provides all of the
  capability of the
  W2IHY 8 band EQ/noise gate, adds downward expansion in the
  noise
  gate and there is no issue with external hum loops, RF
  pick-up, etc.
  
I'm still waiting for my K3 to get back from the
  factory, but I plan
on running the full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil
  GM-5 Mic.
  
  I've used wide range (broadcast style) mics and the Heil
  HC-5 element
  with the K3's internal EQ and find that configuring the K3
  for a 6 dB
  per octave roll off below 400 Hz (50 Hz: -16dB, 100 Hz:
  -12dB, 200 Hz:
  -6 dB), a -6dB notch at 800 Hz and 6 dB per octave rise
  above 1000 Hz
  (1600 Hz: +6dB, 2400 Hz: +10dB, 3200 Hz: +12dB) yields
  extremely good
  audio reports with the broadcast mic and a lot of
  presence without
  the restricted sound on the HC-5.
  
  Coupled with CMP at 25, this provides plenty of punch
  without
  sounding over processed and all highs like the HC-4.
  
  73,
  
  ... Joe, W4TV
  
  
  On 8/20/2010 11:54 AM, Tim Tucker wrote:
   Are any of you guys driving your K3 with W2IHY or
  other audio rack gear?  If
   so, I'm curious as to the settings you ended up with
  on the rig.  I'm still
   waiting for my K3 to get back from the factory, but I
  plan on running the
   full stack of W2IHY gear with a Heil GM-5 Mic.  I
  imagine I will probably
   end up with the comp and EQ on the rig turned off, but
  I'd like to hear what
   others do.
  
   Tim
   AE6LX
  
   On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Philippe
  Trottettrot...@unhcr.org 
  wrote:
  
   Hi James,
   I'm using MH2 also for Field day opertions and
  almost same as you, set
   MIC=2  COMP=20  TX equalizer has
  been adjust to my loud voice given
 preferential to medium high
  audio. Great
   73's
   Philippe A65BI
   K3#3616
  
   k2qi@gmail.com 
  20-08-2010 18:54
   Who uses the Elecraft hand mic? I do and mic gain
  has to be set low; i.e.
   around 8 or 9 to prevent clipping and flat
  topping  as viewed on a monitor
   scope.  This is with mic sensitivity set to
  low in the menu.  I was once
   told that the hand mics are a tad hot, but mine
  seems to be excessively so.
  
   Regardless, my comp is set to 15 or 20 and I get
  excellent audio reports.
  
   James K2QI
   Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Stephen  Priors...@sjprior.fsnet.co.uk
   Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
   Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:21:00
   To: elecraftelecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation
  
   I use the Heil MD2 microphone which has an
  electret element.  I have both
   compression and mic gain set to 25, and mic set to
  front panel low with
   bias.
  
   I have far more 'talk power' than I have enjoyed
  with any previous radio.
  
   73 Stephen G4SJP
  
  
   On 20/08/2010 04:24, Joseph Trombino, Jrw...@bellsouth.net 
  wrote:
  
  
   Hi
  
   We are the proud owners of 6 K3/100 used
  at the FY5KE contest station.
   These radios has been delivered around
  mid-2008 and their serial numbers
   are in the 012xx range.
  
   After using mostly these rigs for SSB
  contesting in FY5KE or in other
   places, we are still facing a lack of
  dynamics, punch,
   penetration, power, whatever you call
  it. In other words, when
   comparing this rig to our radios we
  previously used (TS-850), with the
   same microphone (Heil HC-4 element) and
  the same output RF power, the K3
   is clearly way behind in term of average
  power we can read on the Bird
   wattmeter wired on its RF output. Even if
  observing the wattmeter needle
   is not a very scientific measurement (we
  admit it), various comparative
   reports on the air do confirm our
  feeling.
  
   We spent time on various available
  settings (mic gain, compressor level,
   etc), with no luck, excepted a 

Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig

[The Smiths]

Susan,
 
I think that the days of having background noise from SSB to CW sound exactly 
the same are over.  They went out the door with DSP, how it processes a signal, 
and what it ends up doing with it to improve the quality of reception.
 
I can only assume what you are trying to say is that you can't get the filters 
to filter the same, and the noise floor has a different ambiance to it from one 
mode to the next.  Not that one is louder than the other, because if that's the 
case, then what you really need is someone to show you how to properly use the 
Width, Shift ( Hi, Lo) and Notch tools along with the NR and NB all in 
conjunction to do what you're looking to do.
 
The rig really isn't all the hard to use.  99% of what you're going to do is on 
the front of the rig.  Yes, you have to set the menus up ONE time, after that 
it's pretty much set it and forget it.
Changing to another rig is just going to yield you the same thing, but with a 
whole new set of menus and controls to learn.  Sounds to me like you may be 
better going back to an older rig like the FT1000MP.  That would pretty much 
achieve what you're after, and cost you half of what you paid for the K3.
 
 
 Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:04:05 -0700
 From: ussvdha...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; li...@subich.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] need advice on rig
 
 Aloha:
 I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair trail. It 
 is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to get it to 
 give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.
 
 I think I want to get rid of it.
 
 Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase?
 
 Susan
 
 If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! 
 Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV DHARMA 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The noise will normally be different, Susan. The bandwidth is typically
narrower for CW, which means the noise will sound different and be lower in
amplitude for CW.  

You aren't the first to complain that the rig is too complicated, but it
need not be. The issue is usually there are too many things you can adjust
to suit your preferences but, once that's done, it's set-and-forget. 

So if you can offer some specifics, perhaps the assembled gang can come up
with a setup you like. 

People question about whether I still should be felling trees or climbing
masts, on ships at the tender young age of 72. As I wrote you separately
I'll refer them to your web site sailing alone across the Pacific at...
well... older than I am now. 

73 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
rig

Aloha:
  I have had my K3 since last October.  I think I have given it a fair
trail.  It is just too darned complicated for me.  I have never been able to
get it to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.

I think I want to get rid of it.

Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase?

Susan

If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're
headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM
USSV DHARMA 


se help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice

[Don Wilhelm]

Lynn,

Any chance that the speaker cable became unplugged inside? - you need to 
remove the top cover to check.

73,
Don W3FPR

Lynn Lamb, W4NL wrote:
 Maybe a problem maybe not!

 The K3 works fine except the speaker audio has gone away.  No external 
 speaker and when unplugged there is no K3 speaker audio either.  The 
 headphones work fine as every other part of the K3 does.  I've not removed 
 the top or in any way upset anything.  I've checked every control and menu 
 settings although I've not messed with them.  One minute it had audio from 
 the speaker and the next none.  Any ideas before I call Elecraft?

 Thanks  Lynn W4NL 
   

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[Elecraft] Need advice

[Lynn Lamb, W4NL]

Maybe a problem maybe not!

The K3 works fine except the speaker audio has gone away.  No external 
speaker and when unplugged there is no K3 speaker audio either.  The 
headphones work fine as every other part of the K3 does.  I've not removed 
the top or in any way upset anything.  I've checked every control and menu 
settings although I've not messed with them.  One minute it had audio from 
the speaker and the next none.  Any ideas before I call Elecraft?

Thanks  Lynn W4NL 

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

[Robert Tellefsen]

Hi Vic
Just out of curiousity, have you metered the
K3's current draw in receive mode?  I
expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and
want to start planning for the battery/solar
bank to run it.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chris Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?


 Chris Wagner wrote:

  Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are
machines or
  people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and
K3
  side by side? Thank you!

 The K3's filters are much better than the K2's, in terms of IMD
 performance and ultimate rejection.

 The K3 has both an analog noise blanker and a DSP noise blanker; the
 combination is effective against the Chinese radar (at least as heard in
 California!).

 Note the DSP noise blanker is different from the DSP noise *reduction*,
 which is an entirely different function. NR reduces background noise
 which makes listening more comfortable, but does not remove pulse noise.

 The K2 has an optional analog noise blanker and an optional DSP which
 provides an NR function. The K3 comes with the analog noise blanker, the
 DSP noise blanker, and the DSP NR function.

 All of the above are much more easily adjustable on the fly in the K3.

 I have listened to the K2 and K3 side by side and the K3 is much better
 in many ways. Of course, it is also bigger, more expensive, and more
 power-hungry (which might matter if you will run it from batteries).
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

[Vic K2VCO]

Robert Tellefsen wrote:

Hi Vic
Just out of curiousity, have you metered the
K3's current draw in receive mode?  I
expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and
want to start planning for the battery/solar
bank to run it.


Yes, actually, it's about 1 amp.  It might be less if you don't have the 
100w amp installed; it doesn't seem to matter if you turn the power down 
to 5 watts with the amp in place. The second RX would also increase the 
current drawn.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

[Robert Tellefsen]

Thanks, Vic
I'll probably start my K3 with no PA, as I'm a full-time
QRPer.  That would help keep the drain down to some-
thing manageable.  Also no 2nd RX to start anyway.

What would be your impression of the difficulty of removing
the 100w PA to keep drain down for FD?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?


 Robert Tellefsen wrote:
  Hi Vic
  Just out of curiousity, have you metered the
  K3's current draw in receive mode?  I
  expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and
  want to start planning for the battery/solar
  bank to run it.

 Yes, actually, it's about 1 amp.  It might be less if you don't have the
 100w amp installed; it doesn't seem to matter if you turn the power down
 to 5 watts with the amp in place. The second RX would also increase the
 current drawn.
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

[Chris Wagner]

It's time to get a new rig. I'll be using it in Thailand - with bad
conditions (Chinese radar, pirates and not many hams in neighboring
countries).

From experience, I know and love the K1 and K2. But right now I'm confused
about which one to buy. The KX1 is very portable and with bad conditions, a
few bands should suffice. But I also love the K3 hi.

Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are machines or
people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and K3
side by side? Thank you!

Chris Hs0zfe
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

[Vic K2VCO]

Chris Wagner wrote:


Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are machines or
people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and K3
side by side? Thank you!


The K3's filters are much better than the K2's, in terms of IMD 
performance and ultimate rejection.


The K3 has both an analog noise blanker and a DSP noise blanker; the 
combination is effective against the Chinese radar (at least as heard in 
California!).


Note the DSP noise blanker is different from the DSP noise *reduction*, 
which is an entirely different function. NR reduces background noise 
which makes listening more comfortable, but does not remove pulse noise.


The K2 has an optional analog noise blanker and an optional DSP which 
provides an NR function. The K3 comes with the analog noise blanker, the 
DSP noise blanker, and the DSP NR function.


All of the above are much more easily adjustable on the fly in the K3.

I have listened to the K2 and K3 side by side and the K3 is much better 
in many ways. Of course, it is also bigger, more expensive, and more 
power-hungry (which might matter if you will run it from batteries).

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key

[Tom Hammond]

Hi Bill:


So, before I condescend to selling my Bencher BY-2, retiring the J-38 for
life and start building the K2 SSB board, the 100 watt amp and permanently
retiring up-band, can someone give me some advice on possibly mastering the
Iambic key.


NEVER GIVE UP...!


 Questions include:

1.  Iambic A or Iambic B?


Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'.


2.  Proper contact spacing on the paddles?


Personal preference dominates here, but for starters, try using a QSL 
card as a feeler gauge. This is generally a pretty good starting point.


NOTE: You'll probably get a LOT of 'opinions' here, so read ALL of 
them and then try to choose what feels best to you.


Some folks who consider themselves 'speed merchants' like to set 
their contacts to the point that I'd swear you could BLOW on the 
paddles and have them close. This drives me NUTZ!!! And it is 
certainly NOT RECOMMENDED for a newbie... you can do that later, once 
you are an expert!


2a. You forgot to ask about spring tension. The BY-1 is (supposedly) 
independently adjustable for tension, however given that the spring 
can (eventually) 'roll' around the cylindrical post, you usually wind 
up with both paddles adjusted to nearly the same tension... which is 
not all that bad an idea anyway.


Again, 'personal' taste dominated here, but I like to set my paddles 
(and I am a 25-40 WPM CW op, so these settings work well for me from 
5 WPM to 40 WPM), such that I must exert a small amount of pressure 
on the paddles to close them solidly, but NOT nearly so much pressure 
that there's any chance of my moving the paddle base. I want to be 
able to 1) HEAR a slight 'click' as the contact closes, to 2) FEEL a 
bit of movement when that closure occurs, and finally 3) to feel a 
small amount of resistance as I close the contacts.



3.  Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed.


Paddle (N)ormal  E.g. DAH on the right, DIT on the left


4.  How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start at 20 wpm
and work down or 10 wpm and work up?


Did you ever put in any time on a bug? We'er of the same vintage 
(licensed in '57-'58) it sound like, so you may have had some 
familiarity with a bug.


IF you HAVE used a bug, you may find that you do not need (or want) 
to use iambic keying... the keyer's still completely useful if you 
never use any of the iambic features! NOT using iambic just means 
that you don't try to learn 'squeeze keying'... how to keep one 
paddle closed while flicking your other finger to 'insert' a DIT or 
DAH in between the other element being generated. You'd basically use 
the paddle as if it were a BUG, hitting one side for DITs and the 
other side for DAHs, and merely alternating between the two paddles 
to form characters. Generally easier than learning iambic.


Regardless of which mode you choose, start sending at a speed at or 
just slightly above that at which you can copy. If you learn to send 
at 20 WPM while only copying 10 WPM, you'll find yourself CQing at a 
speed much above what you can copy and having responses at that same 
speed... and having to ask for many QRS'.  One can always (almost) 
always send faster than he can copy, so there's little problem in 
cranking up the speed once you have the 'feel' for the paddles and the keyer.



5.  Slap or caress the paddles?


NEVER SLAP!!!

Caress is probably not a bad description.

When one is sending CW with a paddle, there is a finite amount of 
time required to make the DIT-to-DAH (or vice versa) transition. If 
you 'slap' at the paddles, you fingers will be MUCH too widely spaced 
(from the paddles) and you'll find that you'll have difficulty 
getting your fingers TO the alternate paddle in time to properly 
complete some characters. So, reduce the finger-to-paddle space as 
much as possible.


You don't have to touch both paddles all the time, but your fingers 
should be very close to them so only a small amount of movement is 
required to make alternating closures of the paddles in order to make 
timely contact closures of the contacts. If you don't make timely 
closures, your individual characters will be 'broken' into two 
separate characters, rather than being one complete character.


Also, many ops prefer to use the sides of their fingers to press 
against the paddles. I've always found that the tips of my fingers 
have more verve endings and that I have a finer paddle control if I 
use the tips of my fingers (thumb and index finger) to key.



6.  Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? Kind of
like soldering


Even more demanding than soldering! But equally more fun as well. 
Even after 48 years of hamming I still find myself (esp. when the 
bands are dead) sitting in front of the K2 (in CW TEST mode), sending 
text out of QST into the air of the shack, just purely for fun and practice.



7.  A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this skill. But,
at one time,  I did have a 

Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key

[Mark Saunders, KJ7BS]

I agree with Tom.

NO...!  TAKE IT OUT OF TEST MODE NOW!!!

NOW is the time to be OPERATING! GET ON THE AIR and USE your 
abilities... use the J-38 as a starting point... you can probably get 
up to 18-20 WPM with it yet, all the while improving your abilities 
to copy. 

 There is simply NO better method to improve both your sending and receiving 
skill than to operate on the air, plus it's fun.  Any CW op worth their salt 
will always slow down to your sending speed (assuming most can copy what they 
can send, so don't send faster than you can copy).  If you run across a CW op 
that will not slow down, say no thank you and move on.

We all had horrible fists at one time and were slow.  I will never forget one 
of my first CW QSOs. as a new Technician with Morse code,  that laster over an 
hour.  Later I discovered the ham that listened to my shakey and poor fist was 
an Extra class operator.  That made an impression on me and to this day I do my 
best to pay it forward when I hear the slow unsteady fist of a new CW op.

Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key

[Dave Sublette]

One man's nemesis is another man's requirement By pure chance, I 
learned to use a keyer with a Mode B machine many,,,many years ago. I 
now find that I have trouble leaving off trailing dots if I use a Mode A 
machine. So the remark that Mode B allows leaving off a tiny bit earlier 
is right on. I need that little extra time. I'm sure I could retrain to 
use a mode A machine, but at age 64 and 49 years experience on the air 
perhaps doesn't allow for that.


73,

Dave, K4TO


Mike Morrow wrote:

Tom wrote:


1.  Iambic A or Iambic B?

Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'.


Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here.  


The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, since 
holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an iambic 
string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though the 
paddle for that dit or dah was not closed.  In mode A, one gets a dit or dah 
ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed.

There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations 
required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles 
to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would.

I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an early electronic 
keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a feature.  But, which ever 
mode one learns, the other will be hated.

I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig manufacturers 
(such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in some of their 
rigs that function only in mode B.  It's also obvious that, in some ham 
Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a sign of 
superiority.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key

[Brian Murrey]

I'm just a slap keyer I guess.  Never could figure out that Iambic
stuff...when to squeeze, when not to squeeze...so I just flop my digits back
and forth.



- Original Message - 
From: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key


 Tom wrote:

 1.  Iambic A or Iambic B?
 
 Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'.

 Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here.

 The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A,
since holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an
iambic string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though
the paddle for that dit or dah was not closed.  In mode A, one gets a dit or
dah ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed.

 There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations
required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles
to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would.

 I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an
early electronic keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a feature.
But, which ever mode one learns, the other will be hated.

 I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig
manufacturers (such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in
some of their rigs that function only in mode B.  It's also obvious that, in
some ham Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a sign
of superiority.

 73,
 Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key

[w6jd]

That's my technique too.

Doug
W6JD

-- Original message -- 
From: Brian Murrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 I'm just a slap keyer I guess. Never could figure out that Iambic 
 stuff...when to squeeze, when not to squeeze...so I just flop my digits back 
 and forth. 
 
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Mike Morrow 
 To: 
 Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 5:34 PM 
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key 
 
 
  Tom wrote: 
  
  1. Iambic A or Iambic B? 
   
  Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'. 
  
  Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here. 
  
  The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, 
 since holding the paddles closed just a *tiny* bit too long at the end of an 
 iambic string will cause an unwanted dit or dah to be generated, even though 
 the paddle for that dit or dah was not closed. In mode A, one gets a dit or 
 dah ONLY if the paddle for the dit or dah has been closed. 
  
  There's no advantage to mode B over mode A in terms of paddle manipulations 
 required to generate a particular character, but mode B may allow the paddles 
 to be released a tiny bit earlier than mode A would. 
  
  I personally hate mode B, the mode that resulted from a logic flaw in an 
 early electronic keyer that became advertised, a la Microsoft, as a 
 feature. 
 But, which ever mode one learns, the other will be hated. 
  
  I'd recommend learning mode B over mode A, because some ham rig 
 manufacturers (such as Yaesu) have been arrogant enough to include keyers in 
 some of their rigs that function only in mode B. It's also obvious that, in 
 some ham Morse-guru circles, some seem to consider the use of mode B as a 
 sign 
 of superiority. 
  
  73, 
  Mike / KK5F 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key

[Mike Harris]

G'day,

Well my set up here is:

Mode B
PdLr
I'm mainly left handed and send dashes with my thumb
Have a Bencher BY-2 or whatever the two paddled horror is called and I 
don't like it

Will probably get a single paddle soon, probably Kent kit.  My first keyer
was a Samson (sp) ETM-2B which I used for two years sending weather obs in
the Antarctic thirty years ago.  My second keyer is a K2!  I guess I don't
make much use of iambic except when sending CQ.  There is only a small
advantage in key strokes between iambic and single paddle.  Using a single
paddle I just roll the tip of my finger and ball of my thumb on the paddle
and it works just fine, for me.

How did the dots with the thumb happen.  Right at my beginning with the
ETM-2B I rather thought that sending the fastest element with the slowest
responding digit seemed odd and have sent dits with my finger ever since.
There again as I said above, I'm a mainly left handed hybrid.

In single paddle mode, mode A or B seem to work the same for me.

And remember, only left handed people are in their right mind.  Think
brain hemispheres.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

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RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. K2

[Sverre Holm]

 -Original Message-
 KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000
 KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000
 KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199
 but are there any upgrades to the un built modules? 

KSB2:
I am aware of the ALC upgrade mod for the KSB2 dated Sept 2001, see
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html and go to 3. Modifications
that took place for various serial numbers prior to 3000.

Then  there is also the change of default filter bandwidth from 1.9 kHz to
2.2 (go to 1. General modifications applicable to any K2, press KSB2 and
go to item 2: Crystal filter bandwidth modification). This requires a new
set of filter capacitors which I believe are available from Elecraft. 

There is a large number of user modifications to the KSB2 that have been
proposed and which are documented on this page. It may be a bit confusing,
but the two above should be the only ones that are in the newest version of
the KSB2 as far as I know. 

In my view, the KSB2 is probably the option board for the K2 which could
need an official update as some of these modifications are really worthwhile
doing.

KNB2:
The KNB2 was changed also at one point in time, but I believe that was
almost immediately after its release and most likely prior to your KNB2. You
should be able to tell when you look at your kit. If the manual tells you to
put R's where there are C's marked on the PCB or vice versa, then you have
the updated version which still uses the original PCB.

KAT2: No changes


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

[Craig Black]

This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
to do bucket, but make it factual.

I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
a KX1 and a T1)

Should I;
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

The end results are of course different as in #2 I
would have 2 K2's.

Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

Thanks
Craig



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Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
dsl.yahoo.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

[Tom Althoff]

Did you build #1014?

I did not build my #1117 but I did to some serious repair work on it.  I
then added the noise blanker, KPA-100, SSB and KAF-2.  I did the A to B
upgrade and all the other mods.

If I was facing your decision and I could afford it I would build a NEW K2
so I can have the satisfaction of a 100% self built Elecraft rig.  It is
much easier and more fun to build from scratch than you go back in and
modify a rig that was already built (IMHO).

Also if I bought a new K2 and it didn't include it already I would add the
magnetic shield mod.

You can always sell your #1014.   Also..the new K2's come with the chassis
for the 60M accessory where your 1014 and my 1117 would need to have the
bottom cover replaced.

Go for the new Craig!  Elecraft can use the extra money to invest in
inventory for the new auto-tune high power amp kits!  LOL.

73 de Tom K2TA

- Original Message - 
From: Craig Black [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2


 This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
 to do bucket, but make it factual.

 I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
 has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
 a KX1 and a T1)

 Should I;
 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
 about $140 total)...or
 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

 The end results are of course different as in #2 I
 would have 2 K2's.

 Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
 upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

 Thanks
 Craig



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 Just $16.99/mo. or less.
 dsl.yahoo.com

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RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

One thing Wayne/Eric have been scrupulous about is to offer mods/updates to
current K2 owners so their rigs work every bit as well as the latest one
shipped.

So you can't make your choice based on any possible performance improvement
of a newer K2 over your older one if you have done the updates and mods. 

That said, what's not to like about having two K2s???  And if you like to
build, what's not to enjoy in assembling another one to get that second K2. 

Good rigs are like pretty girls or beautiful sunsets. They don't need to be
justified. They are reason enough just being there...

Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
to do bucket, but make it factual.

I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
a KX1 and a T1)

Should I;
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

The end results are of course different as in #2 I
would have 2 K2's.

Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

Thanks

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

[Jeff Stai]

At 12:18 PM 1/6/2006, Craig Black wrote:
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

If you buy the new one you'll eventually end up doing the upgrade on the old 
one. 

The upgrade process was fun - I think you end up learning even more in 
the upgrade process about the rig, because there is a 'why' for each mod. 

Building a new one is fun, too.

So do both.

GL! - jeff wk6i


--
Jeff Stai   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Twisted Oak Winery  http://www.twistedoak.com/


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[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. K2

[Allan Bacon]

I have built K2 4670 working great, soon to add the 100W/tuner.

To learn more about this wonderful hobby, I also just bought an original K2
# 389 with the internal battery kit. This will be my QRP radio. This is also
obviously a Rev A model. It came with the following un built modules.

KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000

KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000

KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199

From the Elecraft web site, there are obvious upgrades (A-B kit and all the
others) that I will incorporate, but are there any upgrades to the un built
modules? Or after doing all the basic K2 mods, should I buy the latest
modules to this K2?

All suggestions/plan of action as to a course of action would be
appreciated.

73,
Allan Bacon
KI4HRN


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 6:06 PM
To: Craig Black; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

Craig,

If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2
no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too -
including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensation
change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for
this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes).  You will end up with a
K2 that performs just like a new one - it will only have a few more
components mounted on the bottom of the board, and you will not have an AGC
Threshold pot (unless you squeeze a tiny trimmer in there). Do change the
Filter crystals too.  No-one will know it has been upgraded unless they know
what to look for.  I can supply photos of my fully upgraded SN 0020 should
there be any doubt.

As far as a new K2 - well, if you want 2 of them, then the upgrade plus the
new build is the only way to go for economy.  I don't know what financial
constraints you may have, but the outlay for an upgraded K2 plus a new K2
will certainly be less than buying 2 new ones!

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
 to do bucket, but make it factual.

 I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
 has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
 a KX1 and a T1)

 Should I;
 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
 about $140 total)...or
 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

 The end results are of course different as in #2 I
 would have 2 K2's.

 Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
 upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

 Thanks
 Craig



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[Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic

[jim danehy]

I thought I posted a similar message yesterday but it did not show up. Probably 
an error on my part. But if it shows   . . . oh well . . 

I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now seeing 
posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being 
specifically designed for the K2.

I was informed by Elecraft that the headset by Heil is on back order.

Maybe I am premature in worrying. Can someone summarize the problem with the 
headset mic by Heil and what the issues appear to be ? 

I have been told that I have a booming voice (pun intended) and that is why I 
bought the  mic specifically designed by Heil for the K2. I really do not like 
desk mics or hand held mics. I built my K2 4 years ago. I can do without SSB 
but now I want to do some PSK. Probably will try some SSB after a 14 year 
layoff.  So I went with the PRO K2.

Maybe I will bootleg someone's call rather than use my own on SSB.

W9VNE
Jim Danehy
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Jim,

From what I have read on the Elecraft reflector, people are saying that they
cannot talk up the K2 to full output with Heil mics. I have been using the
Heil Proset Plus headset / boom mic with the HC-4 and HC-5 elements with my
K2/100, and have no problem at all in getting full 100W out - even though I
am supposed to have a quiet voice.

Although the Heil mics have lower output than many, there seems to be - at
least in my K2 - ample gain in the transmitter chain to make up. So I am not
yet at all convinced that the Heil mic is the whole problem.

73,

GeoffGM4ESD K2/100  3255


- Original Message - 
From: jim danehy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic


I thought I posted a similar message yesterday but it did not show up.
Probably an error on my part. But if it shows   . . . oh well . .

I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now
seeing posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being
specifically designed for the K2.

I was informed by Elecraft that the headset by Heil is on back order.

Maybe I am premature in worrying. Can someone summarize the problem with the
headset mic by Heil and what the issues appear to be ?

I have been told that I have a booming voice (pun intended) and that is why
I bought the  mic specifically designed by Heil for the K2. I really do not
like desk mics or hand held mics. I built my K2 4 years ago. I can do
without SSB but now I want to do some PSK. Probably will try some SSB after
a 14 year layoff.  So I went with the PRO K2.

Maybe I will bootleg someone's call rather than use my own on SSB.

W9VNE
Jim Danehy
Cincinnati, Ohio

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Jim and all,

If you ordered the Heil ProSet-K2 that Elecraft is selling (or any other 
Heil manufactured product that Elecraft sells), you have no need for 
concern.   All those microphones are made with elements designed 
specifically for the K2.


It is only folks with the Heil products using the HC-4 or HC-5 mic elements 
who need be concerned about the output level - but Elecraft does not sell 
those.


In the specific case of the ProSet-K2, notice the following words on the 
Elecraft Product page Flexible Boom comes equipped with Heil Optimized 
Condenser Element for the K2.  Also note that the Elecraft adapter is 
included, so it will connect to the mic jack if you have the configuration 
header wired for the Elecraft mics (header jumpered straight across and the 
5.6k resistor wired between pin 6 and pin 1 of the mic jack).


Most of the posts on this subject are to help those few folks who have the 
non-K2 Heil products by offering alternatives that may work for them (short 
of purchasing a new mic).


73,
Don W3FPR


- Original Message - 

I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now 
seeing posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being 
specifically designed for the K2.


I was informed by Elecraft that the headset by Heil is on back order.

Maybe I am premature in worrying. Can someone summarize the problem with the 
headset mic by Heil and what the issues appear to be ?




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