Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-22 Thread Martin Schmiedel
If you need to properly solder a UHF-Plug to a cable, you might consider 
a plug of this type:


http://www.steckerprofi-shop.com/themes/kategorie/index.php?id=55katId=64parentId=submenue=0action=detailwas=wo=vonEg=0wievielEintraege=12

Pretty much the same as a N-type connector.

Martin

DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-22 Thread David Wilburn
The telecommunications has been crimping, in some cases (such as power 
and ground connections) for a long time, and in others (such as BNC's 
for DS3's) for the last 5 years or so.  Incidentally, just about all the 
T1's/DS1's in this country (at one time) were all wire wrapped.


Now I think we should get a discussion going about stitching cabling vs. 
tie wrapping.  (Just joking, a little flame bait left lying around)


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Jack Smith wrote:

Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors.
http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/prf39012ss1.pdf 
for your reading pleasure.



Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on the 
International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of reference 
links to follow).


As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and 
connector and if you do it properly the result will be a high quality 
connection.


And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to  cold welding.


Jack



Mike S wrote:

You could let NASA argue with him.

GSFC-733-HARN-01, Rev C, July 2003, DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING STANDARD 
for ELECTRICAL HARNESSES (GFSC is Goddard Space Flight Center) says:


4.20 Conductor terminations- The preferred method of terminating 
conductors is with a crimp termination. However, where necessary, 
solder terminations are acceptable.



At 10:34 AM 4/21/2007, Sam Morgan wrote...

Sam Morgan wrote:
seems I have been corrected,
friction contact is better than soldered connections

guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience 
was a liar,

but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare,
I value my life more than that.
--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread David Cutter
Can anyone identify why some PL259s do not fit some SO239s ?  There is a 
distinct difference in thread.  I have never known Ns not to fit properly, 
but there appear to be 2 types of PL/SO out there.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Elecraft' Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:32 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors


While it's true that PL-259 connectors, often called UHF connectors, do
not show an impedance of exactly 50 ohms, it's important for those who might
be lurking here to know that the impedance bump they produce is not
important below 100 MHz or so. On equipment where they are commonly used,
such as the K2/100 or an ATU, the impedance of the wiring inside the rig to
the connector is likely farther from 50 ohms than the impedance of the
connector.

These connectors were designed by Amphenol in the 1930's for UHF use. Back
then UHF was anything above 10 meters: 30 MHz. The regulated radio
spectrum ended at 300 MHz back then. The PL259's continued to be used in
commercial applications up in the 200 and 300 MHz range well into the
1960's, and I've seen them used on commercial equipment up into the 100+ MHz
range in recent years.

So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the UHF
connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and even through 6
meters at least.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using
them on your K2.

Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance
50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2.  The PL-259 series is not
50 ohms.  Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type N''s, but they're not common..

There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must, such as VHF
and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread John GM4SLV
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 19:32:34 -0700
Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the
 UHF connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and
 even through 6 meters at least. 
 
 Ron AC7AC
 

hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat ferrule for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs
on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already

/hobby horse

Cheers,

John GM4SLV
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors 
is actually a lot easier than UHF types.


But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the 
BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to be 
changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.


Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors 
are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be 
true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have 
it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors 
usually won't work at all.  In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is 
easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N 
connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping 
length instructions.


I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp 
style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to 
assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting 
the coax correctly.


73,
Don W3FPR

John GM4SLV wrote:


hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat ferrule for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs
on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already

/hobby horse

Cheers,

John GM4SLV

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

On Saturday, April 21, 2007 at 10:13 AM, John GM4SLV wrote:


Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat ferrule for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


-

I agree with John and installed 'N' connectors in my KPA100 at the outset 
for the same reasons.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD 



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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Jack Smith
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.


It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax 
type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools 
have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die.


If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 
2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the 
same tool.


Jack K8ZOA



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.


But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the 
BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to be 
changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.


Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled 
BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the past, I 
subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only 
failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough 
attention to the coax stripping length instructions.


I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
about cutting the coax correctly.


73,
Don W3FPR

John GM4SLV wrote:


hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat ferrule for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs
on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already

/hobby horse

Cheers,

John GM4SLV

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Larry Phipps
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier 
is cheapest?


73,
Larry N8LP


Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.


It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp 
tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
non-removable die.


If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 
2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the 
same tool.


Jack K8ZOA



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.


But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the 
BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to be 
changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.


Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled 
BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the past, I 
subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my 
only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough 
attention to the coax stripping length instructions.


I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
about cutting the coax correctly.


73,
Don W3FPR

John GM4SLV wrote:


hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat ferrule 
for

under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs
on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already

/hobby horse

Cheers,

John GM4SLV

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Sam Morgan

Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. 


snip

uh pardon my ignorance...

since when is a compression styled contact point
*electrically*
superior to a soldered one?
at any frequency?
--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Larry,

Try Sharper Concepts www.sharperconcepts.net.  You may have to buy two 
crimpers to cover all common coax sizes, but I found their prices less 
than a single tool with interchangable dies.  I don't know if they are 
the cheapest, but I don't usually buy tools just because they are cheap, 
cheap tools are usually not up to the task that needs to be done, but 
some quality tools are moderately priced.  Cheap tools are rarely any 
bargain.


73,
Don W3FPR

Larry Phipps wrote:
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier 
is cheapest?


73,
Larry N8LP


Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.


It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp 
tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
non-removable die.


If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 
2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the 
same tool.


Jack K8ZOA

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Sam,

Crimped connections are superior to soldered whenever the crimp provides 
a gas-tight connection.


In a similar manner, wire connections made onto square posts with a 
proper wire-wrap tool provide a better connection than one which is 
soldered.


73,
Don W3FPR

Sam Morgan wrote:


uh pardon my ignorance...

since when is a compression styled contact point
*electrically*
superior to a soldered one?
at any frequency?

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread John GM4SLV
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 07:42:03 -0500
Sam Morgan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jack Smith wrote:
  I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
  ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors
  as well.
  
  I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
  superior to solder-type connectors. 
 
 snip
 
 uh pardon my ignorance...
 
 since when is a compression styled contact point
 *electrically*
 superior to a soldered one?
 at any frequency?


I'm pleasantly surprised that so many people are joining the N type is
better than UHF camp, but like Sam I still think crimp connections
aren't the way to go.

Apart from the cost of decent tools I find crimp connectors that are put
to any sort of regular handling tend to fail earlier. If the cable is
permanently installed and laced into a bay for example then they last
quite well, but I still prefer to solder my centre pins and rely on the
large surface area and clamping pressure of a traditional plug for
making the braid/shell connection. I've particularly never been happy
crimping N types onto larger cables (eg RG213), although there are a few
cables like that in our local UHF TV transmitters that I've installed.
The first sign of failure and they'll be replace with proper ones!

I've put hundreds of N/BNC/TNC/SMA/SMB/SMC connectors on at work and it
galls me to have to use PL259s at home, so as far as I can I avoid.
The pressure clamp variety is the only style of 259 I'll work with, and
if I can't get hold of one then I use a 295 to N or BNC adaptor and a
properly terminated cable. Any (tiny) loss in the adaptor is more than
offset by the satisfaction of knowing the connector/cable termination
is right.

Cheers,

John GM4SLV



 
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Jack Smith

1. Properly applied, the crimp provides a gas-tight metal-to-metal seal.

2. Also, the ferrule provides a strain relief at least as good as the 
braid-clamp in a conventional N or BNC connector.


3. For UHF connectors, double crimp = no heat and thus eliminates the 
chance of melting the dielectric when used with polyethylene dielectric 
cables.


4. I installed a batch of 50 SMA bulkheads connectors with 0.080 
diameter Teflon coax last year and it would have been a real challenge 
with other  than a crimp shield connector.


5. I've swept the  crimp connectors I install up to 3 GHz with my VNA 
and find them more than adequate in  terms of  return loss and through loss.


6. As far as longevity, I have some crimped UHF connectors that are 20 
years old installed outside (protected with Scotch 33 electrical tape, 
then self-amalgamating tape, topped off with Scotchcoat and they show no 
signs of degradation.


7. Your opinion may differ and your standards for adequate return loss 
may differ from mine.



Jack



Sam Morgan wrote:

Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors.

snip

uh pardon my ignorance...

since when is a compression styled contact point
*electrically*
superior to a soldered one?
at any frequency?

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Jack Smith

I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.

I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price 
searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it 
is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an 
interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I 
can't be sure it's the same.


It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in 
your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it 
breaks or does not do the job right.


I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size 
cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I 
don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as 
LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic 
crimper.


I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.

Jack


Larry Phipps wrote:
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which 
supplier is cheapest?


73,
Larry N8LP


Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.


It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some 
crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
non-removable die.


If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least 
a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be 
the same tool.


Jack K8ZOA



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.


But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to 
the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to 
be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.


Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly 
assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the 
past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered 
that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not 
pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.


I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
about cutting the coax correctly.


73,
Don W3FPR

John GM4SLV wrote:


hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat 
ferrule for

under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on 
pressure

and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use 
BNCs

on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already

/hobby horse

Cheers,

John GM4SLV

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RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Brian
Hello all, 

Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 

73
Brian
N1WNC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
To: Larry Phipps
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.

I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price 
searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it 
is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an 
interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I 
can't be sure it's the same.

It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in 
your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it 
breaks or does not do the job right.

I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size 
cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I 
don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as 
LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic 
crimper.

I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.

Jack


Larry Phipps wrote:
 Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which 
 supplier is cheapest?

 73,
 Larry N8LP


 Jack Smith wrote:
 I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
 ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
 well.

 I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
 superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
 double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
 others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.

 It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
 coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some 
 crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
 non-removable die.

 If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least 
 a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be 
 the same tool.

 Jack K8ZOA



 Don Wilhelm wrote:
 John,

 I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
 connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.

 But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to 
 the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to 
 be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.

 Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
 connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
 opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
 improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly 
 assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the 
 past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered 
 that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not 
 pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.

 I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
 crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
 easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
 about cutting the coax correctly.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 John GM4SLV wrote:

 hobby horse

 But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
 these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
 connector over a UHF one any day.

 Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat 
 ferrule for
 under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
 sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
 couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
 soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
 decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on 
 pressure
 and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
 shell of the plug).


 I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
 UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

 I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
 having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use 
 BNCs
 on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
 for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
 working with BNCs already

 /hobby horse

 Cheers,

 John GM4SLV
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Sam Morgan

Sam Morgan wrote:
seems I have been corrected,
friction contact is better than soldered connections

guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a liar,
but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare,
I value my life more than that.
--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Larry Phipps

I have several good tools... just had to respond to that opening ;-)

73,
Larry N8LP



Don Wilhelm wrote:

Larry,

Try Sharper Concepts www.sharperconcepts.net.  You may have to buy 
two crimpers to cover all common coax sizes, but I found their prices 
less than a single tool with interchangable dies.  I don't know if 
they are the cheapest, but I don't usually buy tools just because they 
are cheap, cheap tools are usually not up to the task that needs to be 
done, but some quality tools are moderately priced.  Cheap tools are 
rarely any bargain.


73,
Don W3FPR

Larry Phipps wrote:
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which 
supplier is cheapest?


73,
Larry N8LP


Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors 
as well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.


It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some 
crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
non-removable die.


If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least 
a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be 
the same tool.


Jack K8ZOA




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RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread KJ3D
Hi Sam,

I wouldn't call anyone a liar either, but I remember an instructor at
Destroyer School (also Navy) telling us how to handle a misfire on 5 inch
guns.  He said - and I'm not making this up - that if the barrel is hot, we
should NOT attempt to cool it off by hosing it down with cold water from the
fire hoses as that would drive the heat in and perhaps cook-off the misfired
round.

I'm sure this guy had not majored in physics, and probably had never studied
thermodynamics.  He was simply parroting what his gunnery instructor had
told him.

That's how misconceptions take on an air of authenticity over time.

73, Tom

I 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sam Morgan
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:34 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

Sam Morgan wrote:
seems I have been corrected,
friction contact is better than soldered connections

guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a
liar, but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare, I value my life
more than that.
--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread David Cutter
I'm surprised to hear that.  I understand it was the aircraft industry that 
developed crimping as a more reliable way to make joints than soldering, at 
least for regular wiring in aircraft.


Having seen a lot of bad soldering and assembly of PL259s done by my amateur 
friends, I have a mind to buy a crimper set for the club so the members can 
make quality connections to the plugs of their choice.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Brian  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors



Hello all,

Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything.

73
Brian
N1WNC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
To: Larry Phipps
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.

I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price
searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it
is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an
interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I
can't be sure it's the same.

It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in
your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it
breaks or does not do the job right.

I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size
cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I
don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as
LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic
crimper.

I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.

Jack


Larry Phipps wrote:

Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which
supplier is cheapest?

73,
Larry N8LP


Jack Smith wrote:

I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as
well.

I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.

It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some
crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a
non-removable die.

If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least
a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be
the same tool.

Jack K8ZOA



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.

But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to
the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to
be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.

Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the
opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly
assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the
past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered
that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not
pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.

I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful
about cutting the coax correctly.

73,
Don W3FPR

John GM4SLV wrote:


hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat
ferrule for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on
pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).


I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
UHF connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...

I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use
BNCs

Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Mike S

You could let NASA argue with him.

GSFC-733-HARN-01, Rev C, July 2003, DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING STANDARD 
for ELECTRICAL HARNESSES (GFSC is Goddard Space Flight Center) says:


4.20 Conductor terminations- The preferred method of terminating 
conductors is with a crimp termination. However, where necessary, 
solder terminations are acceptable.



At 10:34 AM 4/21/2007, Sam Morgan wrote...

Sam Morgan wrote:
seems I have been corrected,
friction contact is better than soldered connections

guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was 
a liar,

but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare,
I value my life more than that.
--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Jack Smith

Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors.
http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/prf39012ss1.pdf 
for your reading pleasure.



Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on the 
International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of reference 
links to follow).


As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and 
connector and if you do it properly the result will be a high quality 
connection.


And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to  cold welding.


Jack



Mike S wrote:

You could let NASA argue with him.

GSFC-733-HARN-01, Rev C, July 2003, DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING STANDARD 
for ELECTRICAL HARNESSES (GFSC is Goddard Space Flight Center) says:


4.20 Conductor terminations- The preferred method of terminating 
conductors is with a crimp termination. However, where necessary, 
solder terminations are acceptable.



At 10:34 AM 4/21/2007, Sam Morgan wrote...

Sam Morgan wrote:
seems I have been corrected,
friction contact is better than soldered connections

guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience 
was a liar,

but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare,
I value my life more than that.
--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

Then there must be a difference between original manufacture and repair 
for those connections.  The prior information I have from NASA and for 
avionics applications is that crimping is the preferred method of 
fastening.  The only reason I can think of to vary from that in the 
field is that the proper tools may not be universally available.


As has been pointed out, a proper crimped connection requires the proper 
tool and connectors designed to be used with those tools.  Vary either 
piece of the equation and you end up with an unreliable connection.  You 
can take some shortcuts with soldering, but if you crimp, make certain 
all the elements are correct.


For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - because 
I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the low-priced model, and 
I have experienced several connector failures and have gone back to 
soldering them.


73,
Don W3FPR

Brian wrote:
Hello all, 


Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 


73
Brian
N1WNC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
To: Larry Phipps
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.

I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price 
searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it 
is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an 
interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I 
can't be sure it's the same.


It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in 
your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it 
breaks or does not do the job right.


I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size 
cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I 
don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as 
LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic 
crimper.


I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.

Jack


Larry Phipps wrote:
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which 
supplier is cheapest?


73,
Larry N8LP


Jack Smith wrote:
I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
well.


I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.


It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some 
crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
non-removable die.


If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least 
a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be 
the same tool.


Jack K8ZOA



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.


But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to 
the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to 
be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.


Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly 
assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the 
past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered 
that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not 
pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.


I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
about cutting the coax correctly.


73,
Don W3FPR

John GM4SLV wrote:


hobby horse

But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a UHF one any day.

Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and top hat 
ferrule for

under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid

Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread John GM4SLV
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:06:08 -0400
Jack Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors.
 http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/prf39012ss1.pdf 
 for your reading pleasure.
 
 
 Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on
 the International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of
 reference links to follow).
 
 As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and 
 connector and if you do it properly the result will be a high quality 
 connection.
 
 And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to  cold welding.
 
 
 Jack
 
 

I've learned a lot today about crimping connectors! I might have to
re-think my opinion, but then that's what make this a good group to be
involved with. I have a tool and some dies at work, perhaps I will make
up some crimped leads and some soldered leads and compare them!

I still find it odd that the KPA100 has SO239s though...

Cheers,

John

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RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Don, et al:

What a great thread ! I have only experience with crimping BNC and SMA
connectors and, strangely enough, LMR-600. Yep, I borrowed the crimping tool
for LMR-600 which is outrageously expensive from a cell telephone outfit
here in town. The owner is a ham friend of mine and he gave me an
N-connector to go on my long run on LMR-600. It has worked flawlessly.

Don, I use the correct crimp tool (I got mine from West Mountain Radio) for
Power-Poles and it works great. Sometimes I will both crimp and solder them.

I've never crimped PL-259's or N connectors but, brother, would that have
saved some time around here !! HI  I'll check into this.

73, Jamie
WB4YDL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:22 AM
To: Brian
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

Brian,

Then there must be a difference between original manufacture and repair 
for those connections.  The prior information I have from NASA and for 
avionics applications is that crimping is the preferred method of 
fastening.  The only reason I can think of to vary from that in the 
field is that the proper tools may not be universally available.

As has been pointed out, a proper crimped connection requires the proper 
tool and connectors designed to be used with those tools.  Vary either 
piece of the equation and you end up with an unreliable connection.  You 
can take some shortcuts with soldering, but if you crimp, make certain 
all the elements are correct.

For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - because 
I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the low-priced model, and 
I have experienced several connector failures and have gone back to 
soldering them.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian wrote:
 Hello all, 
 
 Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
 work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
 Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 
 
 73
 Brian
 N1WNC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
 Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
 To: Larry Phipps
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors
 
 I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.
 
 I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price 
 searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it 
 is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an 
 interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I 
 can't be sure it's the same.
 
 It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in 
 your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it 
 breaks or does not do the job right.
 
 I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size 
 cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I 
 don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as 
 LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic 
 crimper.
 
 I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.
 
 Jack
 
 
 Larry Phipps wrote:
 Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which 
 supplier is cheapest?

 73,
 Larry N8LP


 Jack Smith wrote:
 I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
 ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
 well.

 I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
 superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
 double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
 others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.

 It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
 coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some 
 crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
 non-removable die.

 If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least 
 a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be 
 the same tool.

 Jack K8ZOA



 Don Wilhelm wrote:
 John,

 I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
 connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.

 But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to 
 the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment THAT would HAVE to 
 be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use.

 Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
 connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
 opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
 improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly 
 assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the 
 past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered 
 that my only

Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Phil Kane
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 10:13:40 +0100, John GM4SLV wrote:

No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).

  I've been spoiled over the years with making crimped BNC
  connectors (both pin and shield) but I no longer have access
  to that.

  About a year ago there appeared a New Product listing in QST
  for a right proper PL-259 crimper requiring only soldering the
  center conductor.  I haven't bought one (yet) but it did look
  interesting.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402




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RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Phil Kane
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 09:31:36 -0500, Brian   wrote:

Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally,
but I do work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF
connector used. Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only
option for everything.

  That's odd.  When I worked on the fire control systems of USN
  carrier-based aircraft at the Douglas Aircraft factory in the
  mid-1950s only MIL-spec crimped connections were allowed.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402



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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Phil Kane
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 15:55:19 +0100, David Cutter wrote:

Having seen a lot of bad soldering and assembly of PL259s done
by my amateur friends, I have a mind to buy a crimper set for the
club so the members can make quality connections to the plugs of
their choice.

  Excellent Idea!  Our ARES/RACES sponsor (Washington County
  Emergency Services) bought us a MFJ antenna analyzer and the
  availability of it has worked out very well.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

   From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
   Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon



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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Phil Kane
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:21:37 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections -
because I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the
low-priced model, and I have experienced several connector
failures and have gone back to soldering them.

  After using the non-ratcheted crimper I felt the same way.  I
  finally went to the ratchet crimper marketed by West Mountain
  and have never had a failure.  Miscrimps, yes, because with my
  limited close-up eyesight it's not that easy to make sure that
  the pin is in the slot properly (I work by feel).

  As we've all said - the proper tool.  May I add - the proper
  procedure as well.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402



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RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-21 Thread Brett gazdzinski
We use crimp only at work.
Loads of BNC connectors on 45 mb DS3 cables, they 
get abused and never seem to fail.

We have a very expensive amphenol tool that crimps
the shield and center pins.

We also crimp the 48 volt power wires, 200 amp and so on,
very special tools for that, and the wire has to be correct,
they pulled out all the old welding cable and put in stuff
that is really hard to work with, hard and inflexible, but I
suppose it holds the crimps well.

I like solder, and its usually much cheaper than a good tool
and all the dies, but crimping done right is very good.

When some think of crimping, they think of spade lugs
with a cheap hand tool crimp...you know, the ones the wires
pull right out of...

Brett
N2DTS


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John GM4SLV
 Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 1:58 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors
 
 On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:06:08 -0400
 Jack Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors.
  
 http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/p
 rf39012ss1.pdf 
  for your reading pleasure.
  
  
  Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on
  the International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of
  reference links to follow).
  
  As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and 
  connector and if you do it properly the result will be a 
 high quality 
  connection.
  
  And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to  
 cold welding.
  
  
  Jack
  
  
 
 I've learned a lot today about crimping connectors! I might have to
 re-think my opinion, but then that's what make this a good group to be
 involved with. I have a tool and some dies at work, perhaps I 
 will make
 up some crimped leads and some soldered leads and compare them!
 
 I still find it odd that the KPA100 has SO239s though...
 
 Cheers,
 
 John
 
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[Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-20 Thread Ken Kopp
They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using 
them on your K2.


Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance 
50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2.  The PL-259

series is not 50 ohms.  Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type N''s, but
they're not common..

There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must,
such as VHF and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-20 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
I don't see any reason an OM or YL shouldn't put in N connectors instead 
of SO-239's in a KAT100 if he or she wants to. The flanges are 
interchangeable, or at least identically-drilled ones are available.  If 
everything else in the shack is N series, there's no reason to have an 
adapter.  I say go for it if you want to.


I changed a UHF out for an N on the deiven element of my antenna and it 
fit perfectly.


73,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
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RE: [Elecraft] Type N connectors

2007-04-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
While it's true that PL-259 connectors, often called UHF connectors, do
not show an impedance of exactly 50 ohms, it's important for those who might
be lurking here to know that the impedance bump they produce is not
important below 100 MHz or so. On equipment where they are commonly used,
such as the K2/100 or an ATU, the impedance of the wiring inside the rig to
the connector is likely farther from 50 ohms than the impedance of the
connector. 

These connectors were designed by Amphenol in the 1930's for UHF use. Back
then UHF was anything above 10 meters: 30 MHz. The regulated radio
spectrum ended at 300 MHz back then. The PL259's continued to be used in
commercial applications up in the 200 and 300 MHz range well into the
1960's, and I've seen them used on commercial equipment up into the 100+ MHz
range in recent years. 

So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the UHF
connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and even through 6
meters at least. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using 
them on your K2.

Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance 
50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2.  The PL-259 series is not
50 ohms.  Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type N''s, but they're not common..

There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must, such as VHF
and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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