Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 18 March 2019 21:47:21 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:

> Try a pressure pot. Of course you’ll need a valve for the liquid line
> as well as the air line ... 2-1/2 Gallon Pressure Tank Paint10 ft Air
> and Fluid Hose with 3.0 mm Nozzle 6940015399833 | eBay
> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Gallon-Pressure-Tank-Paint10-ft-Air-an
>d-Fluid-Hose-with-3-0-mm-Nozzle/222805940003?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26a
>lgo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D6852bb2821004a75
>b4b33f0629d4a214%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D392148898537%
>26itm%3D222805940003&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109>

No room for such. My garage is worse that Cecil T's shop for crowded.

> > On Mar 18, 2019, at 12:50 PM, Gene Heskett 
> > wrote:
> >
> > On Monday 18 March 2019 09:10:04 Todd Zuercher wrote:
> >> Don't discount pump heating of the water.  Last week I was working
> >> on one of our machines that was down with several issues (much
> >> larger spindle 19hp).  One of the problems was the cooling fan for
> >> the water was dead.  It was a lower priority than some of the other
> >> problems, so I was working on it for a couple of hours with the
> >> power on, then went look at the cooler and I was shocked at how
> >> warm the water was. Without the spindle running at all, in the time
> >> I worked on the machine, the water temp had risen from room temp to
> >> about 3 times higher than it normally is with the spindle cutting
> >> and the cooling fan working.  The fan and radiators are very
> >> important on this 5 gallon cooling system.
> >>
> >> Todd Zuercher
> >> P. Graham Dunn Inc.
> >> 630 Henry Street
> >> Dalton, Ohio 44618
> >> Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031
> >
> > Yes, I was somewhat surprised myself when after 3 days, the 3
> > gallons in my tank was up to 38C.  Now my pump starts 1/2 second
> > after the spindle, and stops 120 seconds after its shut down.  And
> > just this morning got all the pyvcp tallies working. At least
> > showing pump power s/b on, no flow switch. :(
> >
> > Yesterday, on a Sunday even, saw the usps driver put a box on the
> > chair just outside the front door, with a gallon of Kool-mist in it,
> > so I discovered just how little suction the mister I bought had.
> > Takes more air at a higher pressure than my 2hp AC is comfortable
> > with to lift the coolant out of a dishwasher pod bucket sitting on
> > the table about 4" below the bed surface.  So I suspect I'll have to
> > make a shelf on the side of the gantry to set the src container on,
> > raising it about 4". The suction hose is also a bit short, so
> > moveing the coolant tank with the gantry will help there too.  So
> > will approaching the mister valve from below, sucking hard enough to
> > pull it over the top of the gantry crossbar takes way too much air.
> >
> > Then last night I plugged in the A table, but it stopped working as
> > I believe I'll have to fix the windings order.  Not the first time
> > as no two motor cables are wired the same so I've had to adjust
> > other motors already.  And I think I've a hal routine to calibrate
> > the rotation scale working by y measureing apos-fb for 100 clicks of
> > the home switch. I like to be able to set angles to arc-minutes
> > accuracy at least. :)
> >
> > Anybody interested in that hal code?
> >
> >> -Original Message-----
> >> From: Ken Strauss 
> >> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 3:03 PM
> >> To: 'Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)'
> >>  Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle
> >> motor coolant advice needed
> >>
> >>> -Original Message-
> >>> From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> >>> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> >>> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> >>> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
> >>>
> >>> When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put
> >>> automatic "anti freeze in the water.   It is make just for this
> >>> purpose and is non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
> >>>
> >>> Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put
> >>> a 12 volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative
> >>> cooler. Then you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If
> >>> the water is taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will
> >>> heat up quite a lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.
> >>
> >&

Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Thaddeus Waldner]

Try a pressure pot. Of course you’ll need a valve for the liquid line as well 
as the air line ...
2-1/2 Gallon Pressure Tank Paint10 ft Air and Fluid Hose with 3.0 mm Nozzle 
6940015399833 | eBay 
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Gallon-Pressure-Tank-Paint10-ft-Air-and-Fluid-Hose-with-3-0-mm-Nozzle/222805940003?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D6852bb2821004a75b4b33f0629d4a214%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D392148898537%26itm%3D222805940003&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109>

> On Mar 18, 2019, at 12:50 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
> On Monday 18 March 2019 09:10:04 Todd Zuercher wrote:
> 
>> Don't discount pump heating of the water.  Last week I was working on
>> one of our machines that was down with several issues (much larger
>> spindle 19hp).  One of the problems was the cooling fan for the water
>> was dead.  It was a lower priority than some of the other problems, so
>> I was working on it for a couple of hours with the power on, then went
>> look at the cooler and I was shocked at how warm the water was. 
>> Without the spindle running at all, in the time I worked on the
>> machine, the water temp had risen from room temp to about 3 times
>> higher than it normally is with the spindle cutting and the cooling
>> fan working.  The fan and radiators are very important on this 5
>> gallon cooling system.
>> 
>> Todd Zuercher
>> P. Graham Dunn Inc.
>> 630 Henry Street 
>> Dalton, Ohio 44618
>> Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031
> 
> Yes, I was somewhat surprised myself when after 3 days, the 3 gallons in 
> my tank was up to 38C.  Now my pump starts 1/2 second after the spindle, 
> and stops 120 seconds after its shut down.  And just this morning got 
> all the pyvcp tallies working. At least showing pump power s/b on, no 
> flow switch. :(
> 
> Yesterday, on a Sunday even, saw the usps driver put a box on the chair 
> just outside the front door, with a gallon of Kool-mist in it, so I 
> discovered just how little suction the mister I bought had. Takes more 
> air at a higher pressure than my 2hp AC is comfortable with to lift the 
> coolant out of a dishwasher pod bucket sitting on the table about 4" 
> below the bed surface.  So I suspect I'll have to make a shelf on the 
> side of the gantry to set the src container on, raising it about 4". The 
> suction hose is also a bit short, so moveing the coolant tank with the 
> gantry will help there too.  So will approaching the mister valve from 
> below, sucking hard enough to pull it over the top of the gantry 
> crossbar takes way too much air.
> 
> Then last night I plugged in the A table, but it stopped working as I 
> believe I'll have to fix the windings order.  Not the first time as no 
> two motor cables are wired the same so I've had to adjust other motors 
> already.  And I think I've a hal routine to calibrate the rotation scale 
> working by y measureing apos-fb for 100 clicks of the home switch. I 
> like to be able to set angles to arc-minutes accuracy at least. :)
> 
> Anybody interested in that hal code?
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Ken Strauss 
>> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 3:03 PM
>> To: 'Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)'
>>  Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle
>> motor coolant advice needed
>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
>>> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
>>> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
>>> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
>>> 
>>> When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic
>>> "anti freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
>>> non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
>>> 
>>> Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a
>>> 12 volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler. 
>>>  Then you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the
>>> water is taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat
>>> up quite a lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.
>> 
>> How about using a radiator like
>> https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079D
>> HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for
>> three 120mm muffin fans.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>> 
>> 
>> ___

Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed (was, now rambling)

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 18 March 2019 14:02:12 Gene Heskett wrote:

> > Then last night I plugged in the A table, but it stopped working as
> > I believe I'll have to fix the windings order.

That turned out to be a loose connection in the 5 volts to the driver.

And my code worked, giving me a scale of 20.something/degree. So for the 
first time in the 6 or 8 years I've had a rotary, its actually 
calibrated.

> > Not the first time 
> > as no two motor cables are wired the same so I've had to adjust
> > other motors already.  And I think I've a hal routine to calibrate
> > the rotation scale working by y measureing apos-fb for 100 clicks of
> > the home switch. I like to be able to set angles to arc-minutes
> > accuracy at least. :)
>
> Speaking to rotary's, is there a convention as to which way it turns?
> Are we looking face on, or down the axis from the rear for clockwise?

Ping?

And I'm disappointed in this mister.  Its best suction still needs around 
50 psi to prime the suction line with the src tank sitting on the bed, 
AND its blowing way more air out the side of the flex joints than is

Surely they aren't all this bad?  I was under the impression 15 psi was a 
great plenty, but not for this one/

Thanks guys.


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 18 March 2019 13:50:34 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Monday 18 March 2019 09:10:04 Todd Zuercher wrote:
> > Don't discount pump heating of the water.  Last week I was working
> > on one of our machines that was down with several issues (much
> > larger spindle 19hp).  One of the problems was the cooling fan for
> > the water was dead.  It was a lower priority than some of the other
> > problems, so I was working on it for a couple of hours with the
> > power on, then went look at the cooler and I was shocked at how warm
> > the water was. Without the spindle running at all, in the time I
> > worked on the machine, the water temp had risen from room temp to
> > about 3 times higher than it normally is with the spindle cutting
> > and the cooling fan working.  The fan and radiators are very
> > important on this 5 gallon cooling system.
> >
> > Todd Zuercher
> > P. Graham Dunn Inc.
> > 630 Henry Street 
> > Dalton, Ohio 44618
> > Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031
>
> Yes, I was somewhat surprised myself when after 3 days, the 3 gallons
> in my tank was up to 38C.  Now my pump starts 1/2 second after the
> spindle, and stops 120 seconds after its shut down.  And just this
> morning got all the pyvcp tallies working. At least showing pump power
> s/b on, no flow switch. :(
>
> Yesterday, on a Sunday even, saw the usps driver put a box on the
> chair just outside the front door, with a gallon of Kool-mist in it,
> so I discovered just how little suction the mister I bought had. Takes
> more air at a higher pressure than my 2hp AC is comfortable with to
> lift the coolant out of a dishwasher pod bucket sitting on the table
> about 4" below the bed surface.  So I suspect I'll have to make a
> shelf on the side of the gantry to set the src container on, raising
> it about 4". The suction hose is also a bit short, so moveing the
> coolant tank with the gantry will help there too.  So will approaching
> the mister valve from below, sucking hard enough to pull it over the
> top of the gantry crossbar takes way too much air.
>
> Then last night I plugged in the A table, but it stopped working as I
> believe I'll have to fix the windings order.  Not the first time as no
> two motor cables are wired the same so I've had to adjust other motors
> already.  And I think I've a hal routine to calibrate the rotation
> scale working by y measureing apos-fb for 100 clicks of the home
> switch. I like to be able to set angles to arc-minutes accuracy at
> least. :)
>
Speaking to rotary's, is there a convention as to which way it turns? Are 
we looking face on, or down the axis from the rear for clockwise?

Thanks.

> Anybody interested in that hal code?
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Ken Strauss 
> > Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 3:03 PM
> > To: 'Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)'
> >  Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle
> > motor coolant advice needed
> >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> > > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
> > >
> > > When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put
> > > automatic "anti freeze in the water.   It is make just for this
> > > purpose and is non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
> > >
> > > Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put
> > > a 12 volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative
> > > cooler. Then you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If
> > > the water is taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will
> > > heat up quite a lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.
> >
> > How about using a radiator like
> > https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B07
> >9D HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for
> > three 120mm muffin fans.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 18 March 2019 09:10:04 Todd Zuercher wrote:

> Don't discount pump heating of the water.  Last week I was working on
> one of our machines that was down with several issues (much larger
> spindle 19hp).  One of the problems was the cooling fan for the water
> was dead.  It was a lower priority than some of the other problems, so
> I was working on it for a couple of hours with the power on, then went
> look at the cooler and I was shocked at how warm the water was. 
> Without the spindle running at all, in the time I worked on the
> machine, the water temp had risen from room temp to about 3 times
> higher than it normally is with the spindle cutting and the cooling
> fan working.  The fan and radiators are very important on this 5
> gallon cooling system.
>
> Todd Zuercher
> P. Graham Dunn Inc.
> 630 Henry Street 
> Dalton, Ohio 44618
> Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031

Yes, I was somewhat surprised myself when after 3 days, the 3 gallons in 
my tank was up to 38C.  Now my pump starts 1/2 second after the spindle, 
and stops 120 seconds after its shut down.  And just this morning got 
all the pyvcp tallies working. At least showing pump power s/b on, no 
flow switch. :(

Yesterday, on a Sunday even, saw the usps driver put a box on the chair 
just outside the front door, with a gallon of Kool-mist in it, so I 
discovered just how little suction the mister I bought had. Takes more 
air at a higher pressure than my 2hp AC is comfortable with to lift the 
coolant out of a dishwasher pod bucket sitting on the table about 4" 
below the bed surface.  So I suspect I'll have to make a shelf on the 
side of the gantry to set the src container on, raising it about 4". The 
suction hose is also a bit short, so moveing the coolant tank with the 
gantry will help there too.  So will approaching the mister valve from 
below, sucking hard enough to pull it over the top of the gantry 
crossbar takes way too much air.

Then last night I plugged in the A table, but it stopped working as I 
believe I'll have to fix the windings order.  Not the first time as no 
two motor cables are wired the same so I've had to adjust other motors 
already.  And I think I've a hal routine to calibrate the rotation scale 
working by y measureing apos-fb for 100 clicks of the home switch. I 
like to be able to set angles to arc-minutes accuracy at least. :)

Anybody interested in that hal code?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ken Strauss 
> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 3:03 PM
> To: 'Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)'
>  Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle
> motor coolant advice needed
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> > Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
> >
> > When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic
> > "anti freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
> > non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
> >
> > Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a
> > 12 volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler. 
> >   Then you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the
> > water is taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat
> > up quite a lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.
>
> How about using a radiator like
> https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079D
>HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for
> three 120mm muffin fans.
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Todd Zuercher]

Don't discount pump heating of the water.  Last week I was working on one of 
our machines that was down with several issues (much larger spindle 19hp).  One 
of the problems was the cooling fan for the water was dead.  It was a lower 
priority than some of the other problems, so I was working on it for a couple 
of hours with the power on, then went look at the cooler and I was shocked at 
how warm the water was.  Without the spindle running at all, in the time I 
worked on the machine, the water temp had risen from room temp to about 3 times 
higher than it normally is with the spindle cutting and the cooling fan 
working.  The fan and radiators are very important on this 5 gallon cooling 
system.

Todd Zuercher
P. Graham Dunn Inc.
630 Henry Street 
Dalton, Ohio 44618
Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031

-Original Message-
From: Ken Strauss  
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 3:03 PM
To: 'Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)' 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

> -Original Message-
> From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
>
> When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic "anti
> freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
> non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
>
> Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a 12
> volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler.Then
> you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the water is 
> taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat up quite a 
> lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.
>

How about using a radiator like
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079DHJ91F/
which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for three 120mm muffin 
fans.




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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 23:01:34 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Friday 15 March 2019 17:46:43 Bruce Layne wrote:
> > > How about using a radiator like
> > > https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B
> > >07 9D HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with
> > > mountings for three 120mm muffin fans.
> >
> > I have a similar radiator for the laser, but the 80W laser produces
> > approximately 800W of waste heat and I wanted to be able to use it
> > all day.
> >
> > I think a radiator is needless expense and complexity for a small
> > spindle motor.  I have the 2.2 KW spindle on the larger CNC router
> > and the coolant starts to become slightly warm after running it
> > constantly for several hours.  Given that the heat transfer rate out
> > of the coolant tank increases as the coolant temperature increases,
> > I doubt I could overheat the coolant system running it nonstop, even
> > with a high temperature ambient environment.  The spindle motor is
> > probably too efficient for that to happen.  If I wanted to run it
> > full time and cooling did become an issue, I'd probably add a second
> > five gallon cat litter bucket cooling tank (free) and another 4
> > gallons of RV antifreeze (US$10).  If space was at a premium, I
> > still wouldn't be tempted to use even the smaller single 120mm fan
> > radiator to avoid adding more series plumbed coolant tanks.  I'd be
> > concerned about leaks and galvanic corrosion and a fan failure.  I'd
> > just get a 50 foot length of tubing and toss the coil on top of the
> > machine enclosure to make a passive radiator.  The thermal
> > conductivity of plastic tubing is lousy, but it's easy and cheap to
> > compensate with a lot of surface area, and I like the simplicity -
> > just a longer piece of the tubing I'd already be using with no
> > welded aluminum radiator, no fan, and nothing to leak or break.
> >
> > I wired my coolant pump into the machine power.  The low power pump
> > runs as long as the machine is powered.  That seemed inherently
> > safer and a lot easier than having the pump under software control.
>
> The only thing wrong with that, and its a personal choice, is that w/o
> power, the computer is dead also. I prefer to leave the computers on
> full time, and have them, if its feasible, control the rest of the
> machines power.  My Sheldon, when I walk away, has only the pi and
> mesa cards powered up. So if I have work for it, I can log in from
> this comfortable chair, at least write the outline of what I want to
> do the next day. The lathe known as TLM is similar but the machine
> power isn't switched by the computer, I have to go flip the strip
> switch to power it up.  One 40 amp ssr would fix that, I just have to
> find that missing round tuit. I even kill the monitor there, but I
> could let dpms handle that like I do on the pi.  But the pi's monitor
> is fairly new led model, draws 11 watts running, maybe 3 when you
> think its off. TLM's monitor is an old old del 15", a 4x3 with ccfl
> backlight and I don't think it knows about dpms.  At least a decade
> old, I picked it up at a yard sale out in the back country at least a
> decade back, $20 bill at the time. I put a sheet of lexan over the
> front, put it right behind TLM about 10" and the hot chips have about
> destroyed the lexan, but the screen under the lexan is as clear as
> ever.
>
Got the spindle pump coming on with the spindle. and off 2 minutes after 
the spindle stops.  One less thing to worry about. But it runs so quiet 
I ought to put a tally on it.  Now I'm waiting on parts, again.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 17:46:43 Bruce Layne wrote:

> > How about using a radiator like
> > https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B07
> >9D HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for
> > three 120mm muffin fans.
>
> I have a similar radiator for the laser, but the 80W laser produces
> approximately 800W of waste heat and I wanted to be able to use it all
> day.
>
> I think a radiator is needless expense and complexity for a small
> spindle motor.  I have the 2.2 KW spindle on the larger CNC router and
> the coolant starts to become slightly warm after running it constantly
> for several hours.  Given that the heat transfer rate out of the
> coolant tank increases as the coolant temperature increases, I doubt I
> could overheat the coolant system running it nonstop, even with a high
> temperature ambient environment.  The spindle motor is probably too
> efficient for that to happen.  If I wanted to run it full time and
> cooling did become an issue, I'd probably add a second five gallon cat
> litter bucket cooling tank (free) and another 4 gallons of RV
> antifreeze (US$10).  If space was at a premium, I still wouldn't be
> tempted to use even the smaller single 120mm fan radiator to avoid
> adding more series plumbed coolant tanks.  I'd be concerned about
> leaks and galvanic corrosion and a fan failure.  I'd just get a 50
> foot length of tubing and toss the coil on top of the machine
> enclosure to make a passive radiator.  The thermal conductivity of
> plastic tubing is lousy, but it's easy and cheap to compensate with a
> lot of surface area, and I like the simplicity - just a longer piece
> of the tubing I'd already be using with no welded aluminum radiator,
> no fan, and nothing to leak or break.
>
> I wired my coolant pump into the machine power.  The low power pump
> runs as long as the machine is powered.  That seemed inherently safer
> and a lot easier than having the pump under software control.

The only thing wrong with that, and its a personal choice, is that w/o 
power, the computer is dead also. I prefer to leave the computers on 
full time, and have them, if its feasible, control the rest of the 
machines power.  My Sheldon, when I walk away, has only the pi and mesa 
cards powered up. So if I have work for it, I can log in from this 
comfortable chair, at least write the outline of what I want to do the 
next day. The lathe known as TLM is similar but the machine power isn't 
switched by the computer, I have to go flip the strip switch to power it 
up.  One 40 amp ssr would fix that, I just have to find that missing 
round tuit. I even kill the monitor there, but I could let dpms handle 
that like I do on the pi.  But the pi's monitor is fairly new led model, 
draws 11 watts running, maybe 3 when you think its off. TLM's monitor is 
an old old del 15", a 4x3 with ccfl backlight and I don't think it knows 
about dpms.  At least a decade old, I picked it up at a yard sale out in 
the back country at least a decade back, $20 bill at the time. I put a 
sheet of lexan over the front, put it right behind TLM about 10" and the 
hot chips have about destroyed the lexan, but the screen under the lexan 
is as clear as ever.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Bruce Layne]

> How about using a radiator like
> https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079D
> HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for
> three 120mm muffin fans.
>

I have a similar radiator for the laser, but the 80W laser produces
approximately 800W of waste heat and I wanted to be able to use it all day.

I think a radiator is needless expense and complexity for a small
spindle motor.  I have the 2.2 KW spindle on the larger CNC router and
the coolant starts to become slightly warm after running it constantly
for several hours.  Given that the heat transfer rate out of the coolant
tank increases as the coolant temperature increases, I doubt I could
overheat the coolant system running it nonstop, even with a high
temperature ambient environment.  The spindle motor is probably too
efficient for that to happen.  If I wanted to run it full time and
cooling did become an issue, I'd probably add a second five gallon cat
litter bucket cooling tank (free) and another 4 gallons of RV antifreeze
(US$10).  If space was at a premium, I still wouldn't be tempted to use
even the smaller single 120mm fan radiator to avoid adding more series
plumbed coolant tanks.  I'd be concerned about leaks and galvanic
corrosion and a fan failure.  I'd just get a 50 foot length of tubing
and toss the coil on top of the machine enclosure to make a passive
radiator.  The thermal conductivity of plastic tubing is lousy, but it's
easy and cheap to compensate with a lot of surface area, and I like the
simplicity - just a longer piece of the tubing I'd already be using with
no welded aluminum radiator, no fan, and nothing to leak or break.

I wired my coolant pump into the machine power.  The low power pump runs
as long as the machine is powered.  That seemed inherently safer and a
lot easier than having the pump under software control.




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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 15:02:34 Ken Strauss wrote:

> > -Original Message-
> > From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> > Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
> >
> > When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic
> > "anti freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
> > non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
> >
> > Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a
> > 12 volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler. 
> >   Then you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the
> > water is taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat
> > up quite a lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.
>
> How about using a radiator like
> https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079D
>HJ91F/ which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for
> three 120mm muffin fans.
>
Thats cute, and the price isn't THAT bad. But its alu, a dissimilar metal 
if that will last about 5 years unless its A: on an insulated mount, and 
B: running a live deionizer to keep the coolant truly non-conductive. I 
have some experience in that dept that yells no at me. I used to monitor 
the resistance of the coolants in klystron transmitters, replacing the 
deionizer cartridge when it got down to 10 megohms, and when I became 
the CE at WDTV and was introduced to the 2x annually replacement of the 
hoses and hose barbs there, which was an all-night and sometimes part of 
the next day job, I said that was it.  And told culligan to fix me up a 
bypass system. Installed it and had the operators start logging the 
waters resistance daily.  Took about 2 weeks to get it up to 5 megs. But 
the last hose barbs were galvanized iron and they were poisoning the 
water, so we collected some brass hose barbs and some new hose and 
changed everything one more time about a year later. The hose barbs were 
eaten away to the point where one just broke away as we were pulling the 
hose. Got it down and refilled, but 30 seconds after we put it on the 
air I was smelling hot rubber hose.  Shut it down and burnt my hand on 
the hose, jerks at the supply house had sold me semiconductive mineing 
hose! They did have the correct insulating hose but we were early 
afternoon  getting it back on the air and had to do it with cistern 
water loaded with organics because it came from the roof runnoff and let 
the deionizer clean it up. That was in 85, and the same hose barbs were 
left installed in about '00 when it was time to fix a hardened with age 
and leaking hose with new hose. Other than some discoloration they were 
still brand new.  About 7 feet of hose to and another 7 from the tube 
socket, but the tube socket had 7150 volts on those hose barbs when it 
was on the air.  After we replaced the iron barbs, it only took about 
one recharge a year of the Culligan cartridge to keep it above 10 
megohms full time. The holding tank held around 150 gallons of water, 
copper tank, blackened with age, it had been sitting there, and still 
is, since around 1957. It work so well that we used that cistern water 
for makeup, probably averaging 2 gallons a day from evaporation. I 
rigged some valves so the makeup went in thru the deionizer cartridge. 
We kept 4 big garbage cans full of water in case we had a leak and had 
to refill it, water bled off the running system so it was in decent 
shape, comparable to distilled.

Yeah both of those transmitters were elderly GE's which if you took care 
of them, would care for your cash cow. And I learned a wee bit about 
water. Good water isn't conductive, its a very good insulator.

Sort of funny, that transmitter was rigged with a pipe nipple and 2 more 
barbs on the hose coming back from the tube socket, located about 6" 
above the grounded return pipe, and it had a 50 milliampere meter to 
ground as a water quality monitor. I replaced the meter with a 50 
microampere meter, and never saw it go above 1 microampere again. Then I 
had the operators log that meter and advise me if it ever went above 1.  
So they didn't have to open the tank to read it with a meter any more.

Something is contaminating this coolant water. No clue if its in the pump 
or the spindle motor. Everything else is plastic, s/b relatively benign.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 13:43:42 Chris Albertson wrote:

> When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic
> "anti freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
> non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
>
> Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a
> 12 volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler.   
> Then you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the water
> is taking even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat up quite
> a lot unless you rig some kind of cooling.

And I think this pump draws at least 45 watts. So ATM the running pump is 
the major heat src.  I have a good sized (6") rotron fan I'll find a 
cord for, and probably hook it up to the pump relay to let it blow at a 
corner of the plastic tank. Good excuse for a long timeout on the 
shutdown. ;-)

Then I need to find/make an ice cream or dishwasher pod tub holder to 
park the mister's src coolant suction hose in, just low enough on the 
side of the gantry to not be self siphoning. Lots less (in theory but 
see Yogi Berra's take on that :) tangled hose to worry about if it moves 
with the gantry. Besides that, the suction hose isn't long enough to put 
it in the drag chain beyond the X chain. I think its long enough for 
that...  If not, its spliceable.

And get me a gallon of mix base to mix into a pint of coolant a teaspoon 
at a time. There's no such thing locally, been looking already, so 
fleabay it is. Kool Mist, $45/gallon/w/free ship.  Ouch.  It seems there 
is also a kool fog, but its made for stage and theater fog generators. 
I'd imagine they don't sub for each other at all, but its only 
26$/gallon.

[...]
Thanks Chris.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Chris Albertson]

Radiators are good when you need to fit the cooling system into a small
space because they are made with many small fins that are closely spaced.
 But if you have the space you can get the same amount of cooling surface
area with just the surface of the water tank.   I used an old aquarium for
the coolant tank and I bet the top of the water had more surface area than
all the fins on a small radiator.

But no one with a PC would want a 20 gallon fish tank plumbed to the PC.
  The larger the tank the more square area that is exposed to ambient
temperature air and the better is the cooling.

But you are right.   a one liter tank and a radiator and fan would work and
take up much less space and you can buy the system mostly pre-built audit
would take very little space.

I was also very concerned about leaks and used a submersible pump (with
added to the heat load) and the tank was below the electronics so any leak
would drain water away and not flood the electronics.   It was a VERY
simple system.Just a pump inside the old tank ad two plastic hoses to
an aluminum block that had water channels machined into it.

My system use water evaporation for cooling and would loose water and
needed to be topped off every week or so but a closed loop radiator system
would not loose water.  So there is some advantage.   But the evaporated
water can cool the water below the air temperature, a radiator can never
get the water as cool as the air.

I just did the simplest thing

I have read about people using "open loop" cooling water the tap water is
used once then goes down the drain or into the flower bed.   Very wasteful
but also very simple.

On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 12:04 PM Ken Strauss  wrote:

> > -Original Message-
> > From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> > Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
> >
> > When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic "anti
> > freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
> > non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
> >
> > Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a 12
> > volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler.Then
> > you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the water is taking
> > even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat up quite a lot unless
> > you rig some kind of cooling.
> >
>
> How about using a radiator like
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079DHJ91F/
> which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for three 120mm
> muffin fans.
>
>
>
>
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Ken Strauss]

> -Original Message-
> From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 1:44 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed
>
> When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic "anti
> freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
> non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.
>
> Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a 12
> volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler.Then
> you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the water is taking
> even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat up quite a lot unless
> you rig some kind of cooling.
>

How about using a radiator like
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler/dp/B079DHJ91F/
which is intended to cool CPUs? It comes with mountings for three 120mm
muffin fans.




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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Chris Albertson]

When I had a coolant tank, for a different purpose, I put automatic "anti
freeze in the water.   It is make just for this purpose and is
non-corrosive with materials used in car engines.

Also, if the water recirculates it will eventually warm up.  I put a 12
volt fan on the tank lid and made it into an evaporative cooler.Then
you top off the tank with new water now and then.  If the water is taking
even 25 watts of heat from the system it will heat up quite a lot unless
you rig some kind of cooling.

On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 12:36 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> Greetings all;
>
> I've had the coolant tank filled with distilled water for about a month
> now, and its turning the hoses faintly reddish, like copper. I don't
> want to put a deionizer on it to keep it up in perfect insulation since
> a bypass cartridge is a $100+ throwaway.  So what sort of anti corrosion
> contaminant do you folks run in you spindle motor coolants? Something I
> can get at NAPA or similar places?  Or do you just change it monthly? I
> though about that last night when I was at Wallies and spotted what was
> said to be distilled water "but with added minerals for taste" In other
> words, tap water at $1/gallon.  False advertising if there ever was such
> a thing. Lesson, read the labels folks.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>
>
>
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-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 12:09:37 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 03/15/2019 02:34 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Greetings all;
> >
> > I've had the coolant tank filled with distilled water for about a
> > month now, and its turning the hoses faintly reddish, like copper. I
> > don't want to put a deionizer on it to keep it up in perfect
> > insulation since a bypass cartridge is a $100+ throwaway.  So what
> > sort of anti corrosion contaminant do you folks run in you spindle
> > motor coolants?
>
> In my TIG torch, I got some stuff from the welding supply,
> that is supposed to be a pump lube and antifreeze.  I
> suspect it might be a propylene glycol formula, but don't
> know.  Maybe plain auto coolant would also be fine.
>
> Jon
>
>From the feedback, propylene glycol seems to be usable, aka rv 
antifreeze, can even be used in potable water systems from the bs that 
abounds. 3 gallons would get me started.
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 at 16:11, Jon Elson  wrote:

> Maybe plain auto coolant would also be fine.

Maybe the waterless stuff:
https://www.evanscoolant.com/

Though there is probably no advantage in a system that really
shouldn't get anywhere near to boiling and that is not pressurised.


-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916


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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Jon Elson]

On 03/15/2019 02:34 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:

Greetings all;

I've had the coolant tank filled with distilled water for about a month
now, and its turning the hoses faintly reddish, like copper. I don't
want to put a deionizer on it to keep it up in perfect insulation since
a bypass cartridge is a $100+ throwaway.  So what sort of anti corrosion
contaminant do you folks run in you spindle motor coolants?
In my TIG torch, I got some stuff from the welding supply, 
that is supposed to be a pump lube and antifreeze.  I 
suspect it might be a propylene glycol formula, but don't 
know.  Maybe plain auto coolant would also be fine.


Jon


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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 09:09:41 andy pugh wrote:

> On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 at 13:06, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > That will probably
> > need an ABC rebuild on the spindle as its in thumbhole style.  Or
> > there will be handwork drilling the thumbhole.
>
> Total work to hand-work a thumb-hole or three will be _far_ less than
> setting up and debugging a 5-axis setup.

My thinking is similar Andy. Particularly with the limited power of my A 
axis now. I'll need to write a slicer I expect so it will be able to 
start with a 2.5 by 7. And I'll need to get a better probe than the $68 
one I have now. Looking at the wild horse as the next step up. Just 
digitizing this one may make me wish I had a ups big enough to run it 
for the 5 or 10 seconds it takes the Generac to get started as I don't 
think that will be a one day job at the resolution I have in mind.

I also have faint visions of bed extensions to mount the dead center and 
A drive on. It will use all of the 600mm run room, potentially maybe 
even doing it in two setups as I don't recall actually measuring it for 
length. BP usually has a forestock that reaches pretty well to the  
muzzle just to have a place for the ramrod, so this one has a cherry tip 
that extends it about 3".  Ditto the pistol grip, has a 1/2" cherry 
bottom on it. Almost too much artisticly.

But that may also be a personal preference.  I tend to make this stuff 
fit my hands which are best described as square, fingers aren't near 
long enough to play a piano well, but when I go to buy gloves, I only 
look at the XXL pile, otherwise the wrist is too small to let my hand 
in.  And then I have 2" of empty fingers once I have them on. 
Frustrating. 

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 at 13:06, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> That will probably
> need an ABC rebuild on the spindle as its in thumbhole style.  Or there
> will be handwork drilling the thumbhole.

Total work to hand-work a thumb-hole or three will be _far_ less than
setting up and debugging a 5-axis setup.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916


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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 15 March 2019 04:21:23 Bruce Layne wrote:

> I run pet safe RV antifreeze as a spindle coolant.  It's sometimes
> also used to freeze proof a toilet at a vacation home.  It's the pink
> stuff at Walmart.  It's cheap, even by our standards, Gene.  Don't
> dilute it. Run it full strength.  Nothing grows in it and unlike
> distilled water, it won't dissolve metals to reionize itself.
>
> Put 3-4 gallons in a five gallon bucket with a lid to keep crud from
> falling into the coolant and you probably won't need a chiller or
> radiator.  By the time the coolant becomes warm, your machining is
> finished.
>
Thats the general idea here too.

> Locate the coolant tank above the spindle if possible (negative head
> pressure) so you can run a small low power submersible pump.  You
> don't need much flow, and a high power pump will heat the coolant more
> than a small spindle.  The only disadvantage of elevating the tank is
> that a leak will probably drain the tank and make a mess.

My tank sits on the table with the machine, so its maybe 8" below the 
spindle and with both hoses under water, there is no siphon back, I'm 
running the pump that came with it, and as you say, leaving it on for 72 
hours will bring the tank up to 34C, so yesterday I added the hal stuffs 
to put the pump under lcnc control, runs from 1 second after the spindle 
starts, and for an arbitrary time after its shut down, 5 minutes or so 
for a cooldown cycle. Whatever I setp the timedelay.  Now I just have to 
wire up the relay. I'll eventually have 3 relays, one for the mister 
air, one to turn off all motor power when motion is disabled, and one to 
do the spindle coolant.

> I use a strip thermometer on the side of the spindle motor.  It
> changes colors to indicate the temperature so I can see at a glance if
> the spindle motor is running over 120 degrees F (that's 49 Centipedes
> for those who have a Royale With Cheese instead of a Big Mac because
> of the metric system).

Chuckle, we measure in Big Macs on this side of the #2 pond, but I'd 
guess we're both using the same lcd strip with a 40C top reading. Made 
for aquariums, I've not got it that hot yet.  Might when carving a 
gunstock.  Thats on my mind as a future project, I have a decent looking 
piece of maple I did by hand on a 50 cal BP and I've had an enquiry or 
two when I've taken it to the range for exercise. That will probably 
need an ABC rebuild on the spindle as its in thumbhole style.  Or there 
will be handwork drilling the thumbhole.

[...]

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Bruce Layne]

I run pet safe RV antifreeze as a spindle coolant.  It's sometimes also
used to freeze proof a toilet at a vacation home.  It's the pink stuff
at Walmart.  It's cheap, even by our standards, Gene.  Don't dilute it. 
Run it full strength.  Nothing grows in it and unlike distilled water,
it won't dissolve metals to reionize itself.

Put 3-4 gallons in a five gallon bucket with a lid to keep crud from
falling into the coolant and you probably won't need a chiller or
radiator.  By the time the coolant becomes warm, your machining is finished.

Locate the coolant tank above the spindle if possible (negative head
pressure) so you can run a small low power submersible pump.  You don't
need much flow, and a high power pump will heat the coolant more than a
small spindle.  The only disadvantage of elevating the tank is that a
leak will probably drain the tank and make a mess.

I use a strip thermometer on the side of the spindle motor.  It changes
colors to indicate the temperature so I can see at a glance if the
spindle motor is running over 120 degrees F (that's 49 Centipedes for
those who have a Royale With Cheese instead of a Big Mac because of the
metric system).



On 3/15/19 3:34 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
>
> I've had the coolant tank filled with distilled water for about a month 
> now, and its turning the hoses faintly reddish, like copper. I don't 
> want to put a deionizer on it to keep it up in perfect insulation since 
> a bypass cartridge is a $100+ throwaway.  So what sort of anti corrosion 
> contaminant do you folks run in you spindle motor coolants? Something I 
> can get at NAPA or similar places?  Or do you just change it monthly? I 
> though about that last night when I was at Wallies and spotted what was 
> said to be distilled water "but with added minerals for taste" In other 
> words, tap water at $1/gallon.  False advertising if there ever was such 
> a thing. Lesson, read the labels folks.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett




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[Emc-users] Spindle motor coolant advice needed

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

I've had the coolant tank filled with distilled water for about a month 
now, and its turning the hoses faintly reddish, like copper. I don't 
want to put a deionizer on it to keep it up in perfect insulation since 
a bypass cartridge is a $100+ throwaway.  So what sort of anti corrosion 
contaminant do you folks run in you spindle motor coolants? Something I 
can get at NAPA or similar places?  Or do you just change it monthly? I 
though about that last night when I was at Wallies and spotted what was 
said to be distilled water "but with added minerals for taste" In other 
words, tap water at $1/gallon.  False advertising if there ever was such 
a thing. Lesson, read the labels folks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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