Re: Sad day...

[Justin The Cynical]

On 10/5/11 6:44 PM, Len Gerstel wrote:
> 
> On Oct 5, 2011, at 8:01 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:
> 
>> 
> 
> Reading the slashdot thread showed me a little easter egg I had never seen. 
> The text of which applied to Steve Jobs as much as anyone in the ads.
> 
> Zoom the Text Edit icon to as large as you can, and you will see the 
> following.
> 
> Dear Katie,
> 
> Here's to the crazy ones. The misfits.The rebels. The troublemakers. The 
> round pegs in the square holes. The ones who see things differently. They're 
> not fond of rules.  And they have no respect for the status quo. You can 
> praise them, disagree with them, quote them, disbelieve them, glorify them or 
> vilify them. About the only thing you can't do is ignore them. Because they 
> change things.
> 
> Take Care,
> John Appleseed
> 
> You will be missed, Steve.
> 
For those who haven't been able to see this, try this method:

Get Info on the textedit app
In the upper left corner, click on the icon.  Command-c to copy
Open a image editor, paste it in (I used paintbrush).
See the text in all it's glory.

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Re: hd tv tuner for G4 ?

[Justin The Cynical]

wren wrote:

Hi all,

Is there still a tv tuner made which works with the PPC G4s (Tiger
10.4.11)?

The new ones I've seen all require a newer Mac and OS.

Would just like something to pick up the free HD tv stations.



While I can't say how well the G4 will be able to play back an HD 
stream, if you want a good tuner, pick up a HDHomeRun.  100% platform 
agnostic, just drop it on a network with a DHCP server, and with 
software that supports it, bob's yer skutter.


SiliconDust makes them, has very good support and offers single and dual 
tuner models for multiple areas (USA, EU, etc).


http://www.silicondust.com/

(I don't work for them, I'm just a very satisfied customer)

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Re: The strange world of graphics card ID and ROM matching

[Justin The Cynical]

On 3/9/11 3:06 PM, Paxton wrote:
>>> I have been buying 9800 Pros (PC versions) from $15 to $20 at the Free
>>> Geeks thrift store in Portland Oregon.
>>
>> That's because you live in Geek Paradise, Northwest. Those of us not so 
>> blessed envy you. May your feet mold and your hair drip with moss and small 
>> rodents. ;-P
>>
> 
> Love the image...and it is true, at least here in Astoria. I was
> pulling moss out of my hair this morning after hauling firewood. And
> it reminds me I need to put a webcam in the Mountain Beaver burrow.
> 
> Here the problem is finding dry long term storage for classic
> computers and parts, it is really difficult.

Oregonians, we don't tan, we rust!  :-)

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Re: The strange world of graphics card ID and ROM matching

[Justin The Cynical]

On 3/9/11 12:07 PM, Paxton wrote:

> I have been buying 9800 Pros (PC versions) from $15 to $20 at the Free
> Geeks thrift store in Portland Oregon. I also found one at the Next
> Step thrift Store in Eugene Oregon. Goodwill just established a
> computer store in Eugene also but I didn't see any thereor I would
> have probably bought it.

I keep meaning to make the trip to Free Geeks (I live next to Hillsboro,
so it's not the shortest trip for me), but I never seem to make it.

The Goodwills around me rarely have any computer equipment, much less
anything that is 'good' or useful to me.

*shudder*

> I also pay attention to the goodwill liquidation stores in Salem and
> Portland Oregon.

Ug, the vulture stores?  Seriously, the ones I've been in (Hillsboro
primarily) are where the Goodwill locations send the stuff they can't
sell otherwise.  Those places are scary.  :-)

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Re: The strange world of graphics card ID and ROM matching

[Justin The Cynical]

On 3/7/11 4:38 AM, pdimage wrote:

> I have a cheap agp FX5200 with 256MB of memory which I flashed for fun a
> couple of years ago - works in a mac but only on safe boot or it rustles up
> a KP - and there's no signal from the dvi port so it's twin vga only -
> always meant to edit the rom but it's fairly slow with TSOP ram and
> practically obsolete so it ended up in the spares stash - for agp a Radeon
> 9800 Pro or XT with 256MB is so much easier to flash and so superior in
> terms of performance - and cheap too

Define cheap and where to get one.

I look on the usual place, fleabay, and I see 9800 pros going for around
100 US...  Mac versions are double that.  Not quite what I would
consider cheap. :-)

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Re: Clean My Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 3/6/11 6:50 AM, Dan wrote:

> Easy enough to verify: Run Activity Monitor.  Set it to update less
> often.  Display the system memory pane.  Watch the size of the Inactive
> list and the page in/out rates.  If the inactive list is tiny, then
> you're low on RAM.  If the paging rates are going nutz (changing
> rapidly), then the system is slowed because it's busy paging instead of
> running the game.

> How much lag and latency is tolerable in this game?  If Anne's 'net
> service is only 1 Mbps downstream, her upstream is apt to be horribly
> low.  Is there a specific server she could run some traces to?

Not really.  There isn't one particular server that is considered 'the
best', and the multiplayer code is even buggier than the single player.
 Plus, many servers are running 3rd party plugins for various added
functions, they might be hosted on a shared server, and so on.

I tried running the single player on my machine just now, and here is
what I have (this is after running for a while, I really could use more
memory for everything I do on my machine):

Free: 962.5 MB
Wired: 645 MB
Active: 1.12 GB
Inactive: 506.8 MB
Used: 2.25 GB

Page ins: 43.75 GB
Page outs: 2.90 GB
Swap used: 1.29GB

Right after launching the game:

Free: 629.1 MB
Wired: 647.1 MB
Active: 1.43 GB
Inactive: 590.1 MB
Used: 2.63 GB

Page ins: 43.77 GB
Page outs: 2.90 GB
Swap used: 1.29 GB

Right after connecting to my internal multiplayer server and playing a bit:

Free: 19.2 MB
Wired: 632.3 MB
Active: 1.76 GB
Inactive: 877.5 MB
Used: 3.24 GB

Page ins: 43.77 GB
Page outs: 3.04 GB
Swap used: 1.39 GB

It's a bit of a pig.  I think the problems the OP is having is a mix of
low memory on the machine side and general lag from the connection and
the server.

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Re: The strange world of graphics card ID and ROM matching

[Justin The Cynical]

On 3/5/11 8:43 PM, Sean Carroll wrote:
> Like puzzles? Good ("good") mysteries?
> 
> Look at these:
> 
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22707686/DSCN1042.JPG
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22707686/DSCN1043.JPG
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22707686/DSCN1051.JPG
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22707686/DSCN1063.JPG
> 
> Then:

Your google-fu is weak grasshopper...  :-)

> a) Identify the card precisely. Extra points for providing a link that
> shows a matching image and specs.

ZOGIS ZO52-CAGP GeForce FX 5200 128MB 64-bit DDR AGP 4X/8X Video Card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814136007

Look at the comments.  Someone ordered this card and received a
'passive' version (AKA no fan, just a big heatsink like the one you have).

> b) Identify the correct Mac ROM - if there is such a thing - for the
> card. Extra points for revealing how you know and where to get it.

This one, that's a bit trickier, if not impossible.

I did find this link, which /might/ work for this card:
http://www.cubeowner.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8807

But anything else, it's going to be a lot of searching and following
links on your part.  There just isn't much info out there any more.  As
much as I wish there was, as I have an older NVidia 6200 AGP card I'd
love to replace the FX5000 series I have in my DA now (modified G5 card).

Good luck and let the list know what you find as this subject is still
of interest to many.

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Re: Clean My Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 3/5/11 3:24 PM, Anne Keller-Smith wrote:

> He also wants admin privileges for his Mac. I say no cuz
> I want to vet any software he gets it into his head to install.

Good idea.  :-)  The few bits of malware for the Mac OS that exist still
need admin permissions to install, and they are getting better at
looking like a legitimate request for admin level privileges.


> I looked at his HD and About My Mac to do the fatiguing
> exercise of ascertaining why the computer has lags from time
> to time while he plays Minecraft online.

I play minecraft as well, let me see what I can offer...


> Anybody a gamer and can give some insight into what types
> of things slow down a computer? He says it's a Java game.
> 
> Intel iMac 2.4gHz Core 2 Duo
> 1GB RAM, 250GB Hard Drive, OS 10.5.5

Ok.  Minecraft is written in java, true.  You only have a gig of RAM,
that's a potential problem.

Java is infamous for wanting RAM, and lots of it, and Minecraft, due to
the size of the worlds than it generates (the engine can generate a
world that is about eight times the size of the earth), wants a /LOT/ of
memory.  Also, Minecraft is still beta (not finished and potentially has
bugs), so lag, especially when playing online, is often unavoidable and
often due to the server more than the client.  The minecraft forums are
full of people having issues with lag.

If you spend money on anything, upgrade your RAM and perhaps look at
upgrading to 10.6, but even then, he's probably going to still have the
occasional bout of lag.

I've got the equivalent of a Winter 2009 24" iMac (2.93GHz Intel Core 2
Duo) with three gigs of RAM with a 16/2 'business class' cable
connection, and I get lag at times.

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Re: Thanks, G-list!

[Justin The Cynical]

On 1/10/11 11:38 AM, Greg Kennedy wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who has helped me with my various questions and issues 
> over the past few weeks.  This is the result of all my tinkering:
> http://nwserver.ath.cx/nwserver/?p=16
> 
> -Greg

Nice post there.

Regarding the wireless, I went and dug through the list archives, and I
found the model of pci card I used to have: Buffalo WLI2-PCI-G54

If you can find one (I've seen one on ebay for about 12 bucks shipped),
I can tell you that the one I had worked /perfectly/ in my old B&W and
DA.  No extra software needed, it was picked up and treated like an
Apple Airport Extreme G card.  Never had a problem with it under Tiger.

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Re: New G4 user - many questions

[Justin The Cynical]

On 1/4/11 12:30 PM, Greg Kennedy wrote:

> I had a question about the graphics card.  This is a Geforce 2 MX with
> 32MB of RAM.  I have in the garage a Geforce 3 of some sort, which I
> think would benefit Tiger thanks to the higher speeds and more RAM.
> Can I drop this card in the AGP slot, or is it unlikely to work?  I
> know there is something or other about changing firmware on a video
> card to make it Mac-compatible but I don't know anything about that.

Sadly, no, this probably won't work.  PowerPC based Mac's (like your DA)
didn't use a BIOS like IBM compatible machines do, they use what is
called OpenFirmware.  For a video card to work on a PPC Mac, it has to
have a ROM that OF can 'talk with'.

Flashing a "PC" card with a modified "Mac ROM" is an option at times,
but the very limited number of cards that this approach will work with,
not to mention that most of the sites that dealt with this are either
gone or more or less abandoned, makes it tricky at best.
http://themacelite.wikidot.com/ seems to be one of the few left that has
information that is of use in this subject.

Personally, I think your best bet would to be to either find someone who
still sells pre-flashed video cards or pick up one of the older AGP
cards from a G5 and do any modifications needed to the card so it will work.

Fortunately, the DA AGP slot is a 4x universal slot, which does make it
a bit easier to get a G5 video card working.  Depending on the card,
like an ATI 9600 from a G5, taping a few pins on the connector is enough
(See http://themacelite.wikidot.com/pins-3-and-11).  Others, such as the
GeForce FX 5200, require the tape AND removing the ADC connector at the
front of the card (I did this one with my DA and the card still works a
treat.  See http://www.sunsetmac.com/images/6613230.gif for a picture of
the card).

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Re: New G4 user - many questions

[Justin The Cynical]

On 1/1/11 1:17 PM, Dan wrote:
> At 2:05 PM -0600 1/1/2011, Greg Kennedy wrote:

>> * My firmware is outdated (4.1.8f, latest from what I know is 4.2.8)
>> but now that I have installed OS X I can't use the firmware updater.
>> Okay, so I can put 9.2.2 back on here, does Disk Utility support
>> nondestructive repartitioning so I don't lose my installation?
> 
> No, it does not.  But as long as you put the OS 9 drivers on the drive
> in the first place, you can just add OS 9 to the boot volume. No need to
> worry about OS X -- the two OSes know about each other. If you didn't
> check that box to add the drivers, then you'll need to do OS 9
> elsewhere.  Or, you can clone your OS X volume easily enough; no need to
> reinstall things.

Ooo, good point Dan, I forgot about that option.

>> * Wireless - this has no Airport card in the little Airport card
>> slot.  I have no idea how to go about finding a solution for this and,
>> probably, won't bother.  I would imagine the expense would be pretty
>> high for a compatible card.
> 
> LEM Swap sometimes has them.  There are 3rd party USB Wi-Fi dongle type
> things, but their software sux.  Easier to just go wired, IMO.

Not to mention the USB ports on the machine do not have the bandwidth to
support anything but 802.11B.  It's not worth the effort, unless one had
no other choice IMO.


> There are ways to hack Leopard (10.5)'s installer to make it talk to a
> 533-MHz G4, which would open the field for apps greatly, but I cannot
> vouch for its overall performance.  I know that others on this list have
> put Leopard on older Macs.  Perhaps they'll chime in wrt its performance.

I did this on my DA 733 (single CPU) with the modified NVidia 5000
series FX card (stock video card from a G5) and 768 (I think) megs of
RAM.  Don't.  10.5 compared to 10.4 is a huge pig.  I think the minimum
CPU and memory specs that Apple listed for 10.5 were too generous.

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Re: New G4 user - many questions

[Justin The Cynical]

On 1/1/11 12:05 PM, Greg Kennedy wrote:

Greetings

> It's one of the Digital Audio dual-533 models, with a 40gb hard drive, 
> GeForce2 MX, and 640mb RAM.

*snip*

> * The PC100 128MB RAM stick I put in the spare slot is not recognized.  Some 
> research shows that 
> certain Power Macs are picky and require PC133 as a minimum.
> Is this one of those models?

Yes, but not because it's picky really, but the FSB is 133.  Find some
low density JEDEC compliant memory and it should work.

> * The DVD burner drive I installed, an IBM-branded Hitachi HL_DT_ST G10N, is 
> recognized 
> only as a CD reader.  It won't burn DVDs and blank DVDs are simply
> ejected.  I don't know anything about locating Mac drivers or if that
> is even necessary.  I want to burn some DMGs or audio CDs from here.
> I've found that Roxio Toast 7 Titanium is supported on 10.3,
> can this tool burn DVDs even where OS X can't recognize the drive?

I am not sure if toast can burn a disc if the OS doesn't recognize the
optical drive as capable, but to fix that, you will want to get and
install a copy of patchburn.


> * My firmware is outdated (4.1.8f, latest from what I know is 4.2.8) 
> but now that I have installed OS X I can't use the
> firmware updater.  Okay, so I can put 9.2.2 back on here,
> does Disk Utility support nondestructive repartitioning
> so I don't lose my installation?

Sadly, no.  It's a rather basic partitioner.  As far as I know, the
easiest way to update the firmware without loosing the current install
is to boot to an OS 9 install on another disk (either internal or an
external firewire drive) and run it from there.


> * This was advertised as a Digital Audio PC... but I can't find an 
> input port on this machine anywhere for a Line In or a
> Microphone?!  How am I supposed to connect some audio source
> for recording?  I have a Sound Blaster Live card in the garage
> but, much to my dismay, I see Creative has been unable to
> produce OS X drivers for this. The kX project requires
> at least 10.4 for their drivers.  There's some kind of plug
> on the back of this for a special Apple Pro Speakers that doesn't
> fit my microphone jacks.  I'm thinking I would need to
> start looking for a USB solution, but even those
> seem to require 10.4 a lot of the time.

Yep, you are correct.  Appple called it a "Digital Audio" due to the
"digital audio sound system with a highly-efficient Tripath "Class T"
amplifier"
(http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/powermac_g4/stats/powermac_g4_733.html),
to which, the only product that was made that uses this subsystem (that
I am aware of) is the Apple Pro Speakers.

If you install 10.4 (AKA Tiger), as you seem to have already found out,
there are more than a few options available to you.


> * Wireless - this has no Airport card in the little Airport card slot.  
> I have no idea how to go about finding a solution for this and, probably, 
> won't bother.  I would imagine the expense would be pretty
> high for a compatible card.

Only because of their semi-rarity. :-)  The original airport cards,
which that DA has a slot for, are essentially an Orinoco silver/gold
PCMCIA card with the on-card antenna section removed.  If you really
want wireless, I'd look for a PCI card that has a broadcom chipset in
it.  If you can find the correct one, it will show up as an airport
extreme card and will work with the native drivers.


> That's a lot of issues and I haven't even gotten to installing the 
> software I want to use.  In fact I've been thinking about this
> project on a "grander scale" and I am wondering if even my
> Step 1 was a bad choice, and I should have gone with either
> 9.2 (and really outdated hardware) or 10.4 (though the
> system requirements seem steep).
> 
> I would be willing to go 10.4 if I knew that this hardware would 
> run it faster than 10.3.  Otherwise I don't want to bother.
> This is one of those "set it up and let it sit" installations, I
> want everything perfected the first time so I don't have to get
> in and mess around with things later.

Well, the system will run OS 9, but you will probably run into even more
driver issues using that due to it's age.  In your case, I would install
10.4 and bump up the RAM (it can handle a gig and a half with three 512
sticks).

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Re: Optical jumpers?

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/11/10 7:42 PM, Jeffrey Engle wrote:
> When using an optical in an external enclosure, what should the jumpers be 
> set to? Master, slave or cable select?

I usually set it to master as it's the only device that is on the IDE
chain in said enclosure.

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Re: Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/5/10 12:03 PM, Clark Martin wrote:

> The type of RAM probably only indicates the version of the card.  The usual 
> problem with flashing a card with Mac firmware is that the flash ROM isn't 
> big enough to take the Mac firmware.  

To which I have seen reduced ROM's as the 'solution' to this, which
sometimes works, sometimes not.   Right now, the best idea seems to be
looking at what is left of the wiki's and info from the various sites
and see if I can get lucky and find one of the confirmed working cards
on ebay or some place similar.

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Re: Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/4/10 6:43 PM, dc wrote:
>> I recently brought my old 733 Digital Audio back to life.  Currently
>> it's sporting a modified 5200 from a G5, but after digging in my parts
>> pile, I've found a 9600XT from Sapphire.
> 
> If the VRAM chips (there should be 4 of them on the fan side of the
> card) are square it can probably be flashed, if they are rectangular
> it cannot be flashed for a Mac. If it looks like it may be compatible
> the info on themacelite website is still good.

Looking at the card I have handy, it's not BGA RAM, so by the wiki, it's
not compatible.

I don't know if the incompatibility is because the ROM can't deal with
the different RAM type or it's just speed, in which case there are tools
to slow down the speed the ROM tells the card to use.

That's one of the questions that I can't seem to find an answer for.
Any insight?

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Re: Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/3/10 9:23 PM, Bill Connelly wrote:
> 
> On Dec 4, 2010, at 12:04 AM, Justin The Cynical wrote:
> 
>> It's been a while since I looked into this, and I'm not finding much now.
>>
>>  .
>>
>> So, does anyone know of an active site, IRC channel, or even still have
>> the info for doing this?

*snip*

> Hope this isn't too much at once ... I'm still trying to read through it
> once in awhile.

Not at all, some of those I have seen, others are new to me.  Good info.

Another forum that deals with this subject is
http://www.cubeowner.com/forums/index.php?showforum=28.  Of course, as
it's a cube owner's forum, it doesn't cover the larger range of cards
out there, just the ones that will fit in a cube.

I used to read the strangedogs site back when it wasn't actually a site
of pictures of strange dogs, but sadly, it seems to have gone away and I
can't find any archives for it.

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Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

It's been a while since I looked into this, and I'm not finding much now.

I recently brought my old 733 Digital Audio back to life.  Currently
it's sporting a modified 5200 from a G5, but after digging in my parts
pile, I've found a 9600XT from Sapphire.

Looking around on google, I'm only finding old and apparently abandoned
web sites, if they even exist any longer and not much in the way of
archives on archive.org

So, does anyone know of an active site, IRC channel, or even still have
the info for doing this?

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Re: Monitor Question

[Justin The Cynical]

On 8/2/10 4:42 PM, glen wrote:
> Need I new monitor. My old 20" LCD Dell is on life support. No complaints got 
> used as a gift many years ago.
> 
> My budget is in the $150 range and the primary use is for graphic arts 
> (commercial but not too color sensitive) and secondarily for general web 
> browsing/email.

If colour reproduction isn't too critical, then sure, the panel will
work.  But for accurate colour reproduction, last I heard, only the most
expensive LCD panels will almost match the accuracy of a good CRT.


> First question, which would be the better 780p or 1080p. I think this 
> has to do with visual lines per inch. I assume the higher "p" the better 
> but really don't know.

As others have said, the p refers to the display scan method used.  i =
interlaced, p = progressive.  The numbers to the left of that refer to
the vertical resolution.  As these are standardized, 720 refers to a
resolution of 1280×720 and 1080 is 1920x1080.  I have not seen a
display, or video card for that matter, that has an interlaced option in
years.  Just about any thing you might look at currently is progressive.

My suggestion, when looking at reviews, treat them as you would any
other monitor you are researching.  Look at the colour accuracy, refresh
rate, connectivity and resolution.  Ignore the whole 1080/720 p/i thing,
it's being used more for marketing than anything else, especially
considering that with some displays (and televisions), the bold print
may say 720p, but when you look at the fine print, it says that it can
accept and display a 720p signal, but the actual resolution is less.
And as 720/1080 is a television standard, it's pretty safe to disregard
it when looking at a monitor. (IMO, of course)

Consider that the display I'm looking at now, an old dell 2005
ultrasharp widescreen has a native resolution of 1680x1050, which is
more than enough for 720p.

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Re: plain text please

[Justin The Cynical]

On 7/17/10 10:18 PM, Dan wrote:
> [HTML stripped, as necessary]

*snip*

> Remember that the purpose of these LEM mailing lists is TECHNICAL
> SUPPORT, not pretty animated icon cutsie email chatty please pass the
> nail polish.

That's a good one Dan, I'll have to remember that one.

> I don't speak for the other techies on these lists... but wading thru
> HTML-based emails, just like TOP POSTED and UNTRIMMED messages, is a
> WASTE of my time.  My time is very limited.  I can view a couple of
> pretty emails, and get lost in all the formatting added by each replier,
> and botched along the way...  Or I can quickly go thru whole threads of
> well-formatted plain text - and provide technical answers. Remember the
> part about the purpose of these lists

As well as headache inducing, foaming at the mouth inducing, and so on.

> Frankly, if you're dying to send pretty messages then go find a service
> that's Forum based.  Myself, I'll continue to hit cmd-D as soon as I
> open a gaudy POS HTML email on these groups.

*nods*

And I might add the space needed to store this 'stuff'.  Dan touched on
the subject with "As for your mootness... when I'm on a metered
connection, I'm paying per kilobyte.  How 'bout if I bill you each time
you send 1 KB of text in a 4 KB message?".  Somewhere out there, the
list is being archived and the mail servers are tossing the packets
around to everyone else while storing it locally, at least temporary.
That drive space could probably be used for more important stuff than
HTML in email that bloats up the size of said email.

Somewhere I had a printout of an email generated by one of the worst
offenders out there, microsoft outlook.  For about a line of actual
text, the formatting code that send it out bloated it up to almost two
pages of hard copy.  Did you note that I said /about/ a line?  It wasn't
even a full 80 characters.

And before anyone pulls out the 'drives are cheap' counterpoint, yes,
they are...  for /consumer grade/ drives.  Ever priced a /real/
enterprise grade drive for a typical server?

Lets take a quick look at the current price leader for servers...  Dell.

Searching the Dell website for poweredge hard drive, one of the first
hits is a "300 GB 15,000 RPM SAS Hard Drive for Dell PowerEdge Servers".
 The low-low price for this (smallish drive by todays consumer level
drive standards) has a "Starting Price" of $567.99 US Dollars, and the
description for said drive does not show if it comes with the drive
caddy needed to use it in a typical rack mount server (that's usually
another 30 to 50 dollars more, on the low end).  And 300 gig is a good
sized drive for enterprise grade drives.  Most of, oh, say Seagate's
line of drives, max out at 600 gig, with 2 TB being the new top end.
Hitachi and Western Digital appear to offer the larger sizes in one or
two more lines than Seagate, but the overall capacity of the drives is
about the same.

Seagate's 2 TB enterprise hard drive (7200 RPM, 16 meg buffer, SAS
interface) has a price, per google shopper, starting at $326, which
appears to be the average price for a drive of that size (don't forget,
I'm not including the price of the drive caddies that are needed to even
use the things in a server).

So no, storage is not exactly cheap for enterprise systems.  It's
cheaper than it used to be, but the cost to capacity ratio is no where
near what it is for consumer level kit.  Do the HTML proponents want to
shell out the several hundred dollars for a new drive everytime mail
storage space is expanded because 'most people' are using HTML based
email clients and sending it out that way (and it happens more often
than most people think, especially with the way 'net usage is increasing)?

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Re: IBM HDD clicking

[Justin The Cynical]

On 7/9/10 12:00 PM, john CARMONNE wrote:

*snip*

>  For fear of sounding dumb. Just what does a person do with the magnets?
> Where are they in the drive.

You don't sound dumb, not at all.  A lot of people don't realize that a
hard drive has magnets in them (kind of ironic, considering that a
magnet is sudden death to magnetic media, such as hard drives).

The magnet assembly sits at the end of the actuator arm, with part of
the arm assembly 'sandwiched' in between the two magnets (some drives
use a single magnet).

If you look at the wikipedia article on hard disk drives, under the
Architecture heading, it has a picture of the actuator arm and magnet
assembly (the magnets are in the upper left area of the drive base in
the picture).

Hard drives used to have another motor that would position the drive arm
and head assembly (the actuator), but that was replaced with the magnets
and a voice coil assembly that uses the magnetic field from the main
magnets and voice coil to position the arm.  The voice coil is, as I
understand it, quieter, more accurate, and a heck of a lot less likely
to get out of calibration.  I believe it takes less power and generates
less heat as well.  Any more detail than that, I can not provide as it
can go deep into magnetic field and engineering theory and construction,
both of which I have only a vague grasp of as well as lacking the brain
cycles to fully understand at this point.  :-)

As for what does one do with them?  Whatever one does with any magnet,
just recall the magnets in a typical hard drive are /very/ strong (and
I'm very serious about how strong they are).  I've given myself blood
blisters from the force these things have when being attracted to the
appropriate metal.  Right now, I've got a few of them holding various
things on my refrigerator, like notes, an advert to the local take away
pizza place, and a bottle opener for beer.  :-)

They are also great for fishing out metal parts that drop down a drain
that one wouldn't be able to retrieve otherwise, as well as finding the
^%$&^ tiny screws from a laptop that just fell on the floor.

I also have one attached to my tool belt use it as a nail holder when
I'm pulling out (or using) nails around the house and don't want to have
to stick my hands in a pocket full of sharp pointy objects.

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Re: IBM HDD clicking

[Justin The Cynical]

On 7/9/10 6:43 AM, Eric Herbert wrote:

*snip*

> A lot of people swear by Hitachi drives and I've never understood it.  The 
> "Deathstar" IBM drives were made by Hitachi during their entire run.  The 
> stigma hurt IBM so badly that they sold off the whole division to Hitachi 
> over it.

*snip*

Cite?

I happen to have a deathstar drive sitting here on my desk (I've not
gotten around to taking it apart for the magnets), and no where on it
does it say Hitachi (says that it was made in Thailand by IBM Storage
Products).

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Re: How to flash a Pioneer DVR-117D to DVR-108?

[Justin The Cynical]

On 7/2/10 2:09 PM, Jeffrey Engle wrote:
> anybody ever did this?
> 
> I was told that the "apple branded" DVR-117D is actually a DVR-108 and
> apple sold the 117D without the dual burning features of the 108? Can I
> flash this drive and fix this problem? I found the below link but am not
> sure where to find "Flash kit 2.0" that they are talking about Jeff
> 
> 
> http://forums.xlr8yourmac.com/action.lasso?-database=faq.fp3&-layout=FaqList&-response=answer.faq.lasso&-recordID=34209&-search

Quick google for "DVR-117D to DVR-108" turns up
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/tips/FlashingDVR-117guide.html, which has a
link to http://lasvegas.rpc1.org/DVRFlash_v2.1.zip, which appears to be
a newer version of the archive you are looking for.

Enjoy and don't brick your burner.  :-)

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Re: IDK how to flash a video card

[Justin The Cynical]

On 6/24/2010 13:10, dc wrote:

On Jun 16, 12:56 am, Mark Sokolovsky  wrote:

I have an Nvidia GeForce 6200 AGP
with 256Mb DDR2 RAM AGP 8X, and it's a PC card. Can somebody show me step by
step instructions to get it working on my PM G4 Sawtooth?


After yo flash the ROM you will need to tape over pins 3&  11 (or cut
the traces) to make an 8x card run in a Sawtooth.


Actually, it appears to depend on the card and the vintage of the sawtooth.

All the AGP 8x 6200's that I can find on a quick google image search 
appear to be universal AGP 3 cards, so can card should be able to run at 
2x speeds.


As for the vintage comment, it appears that the tape trick is only 
needed for ADC capable G4's due to Apple using the previously unused AGP 
pins.  See http://themacelite.wikidot.com/pins-3-and-11 for the full story.


But if someone wanted to tape them regardless, it doesn't appear to mess 
with anything if they are taped in a pre-ADC Mac, so I guess it depends 
on how 'lazy' a person is.  :-)


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Re: OMG I NEED HELP!

[Justin The Cynical]

On 6/17/10 1:48 AM, James Therrault wrote:
> 
> On Jun 17, 2010, at 12:10 AM, Mark Sokolovsky wrote:

*snip*

>> failure until yesterday. I took it apart, and the entire disk was
>> charred/scratched inside. How wonderful? Next time i'll think twice
>> before buying Hard drives from Maxtor.

Pics!  Pics!  (I collect pictures of dead and fried kit.  It amuses me
for some reason)

> 
> Didn't Maxtor go belly up a few years back?

No, they were bought by Seagate for their 'value line' or some such
usage, not that I see any reference to the brand on the Seagate web site.

Personal theory is that Seagate bought the company and buried the brand
when they found out that their rep was roughly equivalent to e Machines
or the old Packard Bell.

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Re: Will PowerPC be forever obsolete?

[Justin The Cynical]

On 6/13/10 6:42 PM, Albert Carter wrote:
> Mark,
> 
> Since you are going to re-do the video to prove this I have one further 
> suggestion. Do this as one complete video, do not segment it and do not turn 
> off or pause the video camera. This will lead to further validate your proof.
> 
> Albert

Oooo, good point, didn't think of that one.

This could be interesting to watch.

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Re: Will PowerPC be forever obsolete?

[Justin The Cynical]

On 6/13/10 9:08 AM, Mark Sokolovsky wrote:
> Like I said, you don't have to believe me if you don't want to. If You don't
> believe, than good for you. Everyone's different. If you look at my evidence
> in the face and say that it's fake or a scam, well then, oh well. I really
> don't care. For those of you who know this is real, thank you for realizing
> what people like us can do.

The problem is that your evidence is something that is easily faked, and
you claiming to have done something that shouldn't be possible.

If you really want to prove this is legit, remake the video.

Start with a powered down machine and monitor, show the monitor cables
running to the sawtooth.

Power on the monitor first, then the Sawtooth.  Let the system boot into
10.2, show what system profiler shows for the memory and video subsystem.

Start up the emulator and 10.6 and again show what system profiler shows
for the memory and video subsystem.

If you did all this, it would be much harder to poke holes in your
alleged proof, if at all.

Be more detailed.  What are these open firmware commands you used?
Where did you get the firmware file from?  Is it an official apple or a
modified one?  What hardware is in the system?  Extra SATA cards?  What
about the video card?  And where did this 'virtual geforce card driver'
come from?

I'm not saying you are faking it, but what you have presented, as I
mentioned earlier, is easily faked by just about anyone, and your
replies so far sound like someone who got caught and can't explain their
way out of the corner they are in.

Oh yes, have better lighting as well.  Your originals were pretty dark. :-)

Frankly, I'm having a hard time believing this as well due to my own
experiences with emulation, but if you can provide proof that isn't
something that could be easily faked, you may have hit upon something
wild and amazing.  As I see it, until you do this, virtually no one is
going to believe you.

Or if someone can get me a sawtooth, I'd be glad to try and reproduce
this, I think it would be fun to try. ;-)

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Re: Anyone know how to disassemble USB Pro mouse?

[Justin The Cynical]

On 6/5/10 12:42 PM, ah...clem wrote:
> have a few mice with broken wires where cord exits the mouse.  can't
> see how to open mouse to cut and reconnect the wires.  anyone know how
> to pry open this chinese puzzle box?  thx.

http://lmgtfy.org/?q=usb+pro+mouse+repair

Seriously, searching for "usb pro mouse repair" turned up a good amount
of pages that covers taking one of those apart.  I wish you luck, it
looks like those were made to German tank standards.

(Epoxy?  Come on Apple, what's with that??)

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Re: I want to get a LCD monitor for my G4

[Justin The Cynical]

icanswing wrote:

Hi,
What brand of LCD monitors will work on my Mac g4?  It has 2 hookups one is VGA 
and the other is ADC.

They never specify the hookups on the description on the monitors.  But I'm 
thinking that viewsonic may be the ones that are compatible with macs.

Any suggestions?


(coming in a bit late)

As others have said, VGA is VGA.  Mac, Windows, Linux, etc, it's pretty 
much all the same.


You mentioned that you have an ADC port on the back of your current 
video card.  An ADC port is basically a DVI connector with the extra 
Apple-only lines for analog and digital video signals, USB, and power. 
You can find ADC to DVI/VGA adapters so you can use that port with a 
standard panel as well, you will just loose the ability to power the 
panel/use any built on usb ports with a single cable.


I noticed that you said you tried a VGA cable before and it looked bad. 
 This could be caused by a low end VGA cable (analog VGA is suspect to 
cheap cables) or the resolution being sent to the panel was less than 
what the panel can produce (AKA the native resolution).  LCD panels look 
best when running them at their native resolution, otherwise they will 
generally stretch, fold, spindle and mutilate the image to fit.


I've got an older Dell panel that has a native resolution of 1680x1050 
that has been used on my old B&W G3 and G4 DA with out a single issue.



Now if you were talking about an Old World Mac, then things might be 
different as they had some 'odd' resolution settings, but would work 
with a standard VGA monitor with some fiddling (I've still got my old 15 
Way D Male to 15 Way HD Female adapter cable for my pizza box performa).


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Re: EDIT: A good and cheap video card

[Justin The Cynical]

PM7500 wrote:
> The FX5200 for the G5 Xserve is PCI. The G5 Xserve doesn't have a AGP
> slot.

Who is talking about a xserve?  I was referring to the original G5
'cheese grater' tower, which had an AGP Pro slot.

I had one of of the NVidia FX cards from a G5 tower and, after
modification, used it quite successfully in the dig audio G4 I had.

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Re: OT - "to UPS or not to UPS"

[Justin The Cynical]

Dan wrote:

> At 8:12 PM -0700 3/27/2010, Justin The Cynical wrote:
>> Dan wrote:
>>  > What you NEED is good surge protection.  The battery backup
>> "feature" of
>>  > a UPS is gravy.
>>
>> I would have to partially disagree Dan.
>>
>> The battery backup is gravy, yes.
>>
>> What one needs is good surge protection /and/ power conditioning (true
>> sine wave output is vastly preferred).
> 
> Power conditioning is done by capacitors in the surge protector etc, not
> from the battery.

You are correct on this.  My point, however, was that power conditioning
is often overlooked or forgotten, and it is an important item to look at
IMO.  But for the price that a good, or even decent one, costs, it's not
much more to step up to a UPS with this functionality.


>> A while ago, I started graphing the readings from my APC SmartUPS, and
>> the results are interesting to say the least.  Going with a 5 minute
>> granularity, it seems that from about 10:30PM to 7AM every day, the
>> power around here drops from it's normal 118 VAC to around 113 VAC.  Not
>> much of a drop, sure, but with how sensitive electronics can be, why
>> take chances IMO.
> 
> Sounds like you need to have a conversation with your power company.
> Whatever is causing the daily sags needs to be identified and repaired.

Agreed.  However, my kit would have been exposed to this if it hadn't
been for the UPS.  I'm glad that I started graphing it all.

To make this on topic, considering the age of your typical G4 and the
older designs of the power supplies (which may be getting up there in
age), having good surge suppression and power conditioning is becoming
more important as time goes on to help shield the hardware from stuff
like this.  IMO, there will be a day where replacement parts are hard to
come by and doing what one can to extend the life is always a Good Idea
(tm).

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Re: OT - "to UPS or not to UPS"

[Justin The Cynical]

Dan wrote:
> At 8:07 AM -0700 3/27/2010, Jeffrey Engle wrote:
>>
>> what exactly do I "need" plugged into [a UPS]?
> 
> Nothing.
> 
> What you NEED is good surge protection.  The battery backup "feature" of
> a UPS is gravy.
> 
> - Dan.

I would have to partially disagree Dan.

The battery backup is gravy, yes.

What one needs is good surge protection /and/ power conditioning (true
sine wave output is vastly preferred).

Yes, most modern power supplies, computer or otherwise, can deal with
dirty lines, but why make them put up with it if it can be avoided?

A while ago, I started graphing the readings from my APC SmartUPS, and
the results are interesting to say the least.  Going with a 5 minute
granularity, it seems that from about 10:30PM to 7AM every day, the
power around here drops from it's normal 118 VAC to around 113 VAC.  Not
much of a drop, sure, but with how sensitive electronics can be, why
take chances IMO.

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Re: EDIT: A good and cheap video card

[Justin The Cynical]

The M wrote:

I'll look into that. I googled   NVidia FX5200 and I saw a really cheap 256MB 
card but it was PCI. Do pci graphics cards work with the MDD's?

You can't compare Apples and oranges. And Microsoft is the orange here. 


Hmm?  I'm not aware of NVidia/Apple ever making a PCI FX5200 card, the 
only ones I've seen are AGP.


I think you misunderstood.  My suggestion, and the one from Samuel, are 
Mac native cards, no flashing needed.  In the case of the NVidia card, 
it's removing some of the edge connectors that are not strictly needed 
and taping some pins.  With the Radeon that Samuel suggested, it's just 
taping pins (don't believe that physically modding the card is needed, 
unless you want the ADC connector to power a display).


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Re: EDIT: A good and cheap video card

[Justin The Cynical]

The M wrote:

Thanks. That's a great site. Maybe I'll pick a cheap card up when I have the cash and 
flash it. Why do they make mac compatible cards more expensive? Is it because "macs 
cost more and that means that mac owners have more money"?

On Mar 22, 2010, at 8:28 PM, Rory  wrote:

On Mar 22, 8:23 pm, The M  wrote:
How would I go about installing a new rom? Could I just flash the firmware? 
Sounds like a great card to me.

Pretty much.  This link will have everything you need to know:
http://themacelite.wikidot.com/start


Another idea would be to pick up a used G5 NVidia FX5200 card, do a bit 
of modification to the card itself (really easy to do), and just drop it 
in.  No flashing required with full core and quartz support.


These cards only have 64 meg onboard, but unless you absolutely have to 
have 128 megs, this may be the easiest and potentially cheapest way to 
get most of your list met.


I used one in my old DA and worked perfectly.

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Re: iMac G5 Capacitor Replacement?

[Justin The Cynical]

Ben Dinger wrote:
> On Sun, Mar 07, 2010 at 01:38:26PM -0800, Jonas Ulrich wrote:

*snip*

>> 3. Could it harm the machine to use it before replacing the capacitors?
> 
> Maybe.  I had a machine (PC) that had bad caps from about the second
> week of ownership due to a cheap motherboard, and it lasted for years -
> in fact the mb is still sitting in my garage.  Never a problem with it. 

*snip*

I would avoid using it until the supply is fixed or replaced.

Go here:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=154

And in particular, look at page four.  IMO, bad caps are not something
to mess with if you really value your machines.

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Re: MDD CPU in GigE... Not possible?

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/15/2009 4:48 AM, Ross wrote:

*snip*

> Yeah, I misread the OP, so I deleted the post! I wonder why it showed
> up after I confirmed to REMOVE IT? This is the second or third this
> same error has occured. Something is WRONG with the REMOVE option!
> Pisses me off to appear the fool, when it is NOT my fault. Somebody
> fix the problem with the REMOVE option, please.

Wait, there is a web interface to a mailing list?

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Re: CPU swap questions

[Justin The Cynical]

Silverhammer wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I have a G4 Gigabit Ethernet dual 500 I'm looking to speed up for
> cheap.
> I found a PowerMac G4 800 MHz CPU from a working Quicksilver 2002.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> - Will this cpu work in the GigEthernet?
> 
> and
> 
> - Will it be faster, or would the GigE be faster because it has 2
> processors?
> 
> also
> 
> - if it will work & is faster, any special tools/supplies/skills
> needed for the swap?


Question 1:  Will it work?
Yes it will, but it would require some modifications for the extra 12 
volt line that powers a QS CPU card, and one for the motherboard/case 
(the location of the CPU card on machines previous to the digital audio 
are in a location that makes using a newer CPU card an interesting 
proposition)

Question 2: Will it be faster?
It will, kind of.  You are looking at two different types of 
performance.  If you do multiple things at once or runs programs that 
can deal with multiple CPU's/threads, the dual /might/ be faster.  If 
you primarly use programs that do not make use of multiple 
CPU's/threads, the QS CPU /might/ be marginally faster.

I say /might/ for two reasons:

One, early QS CPU's did not have any L3 cache.  This is a huge 
performance hit.

Two, the QS runs the CPU with a memory bus speed of 133 MHz, same with a 
DA.  Your machine predates the DA, which means that it runs the memory 
bus at 100 MHz.  This affects the CPU because that bus is one of two 
things that directly affect the speed of the CPU (memory bus AKA the 
front side bus and the CPU multiplier).  Your current machine runs 100 
MHz memory and a 500 MHz CPU.  Figure that is a multiplier of five.  The 
QS CPU you are mentioning runs at 800 MHz.  Divide that by 133 and you 
get just over 6 (6.01503 yadda).  So assume a multiplier of 6 and that 
CPU, assuming that you are able to modify the case, potentially board, 
and power lines, would run at about 600 MHz.

Yes, the CPU multiplier can be changed, but it requires some steady 
hands and the ability to work with surface mount electronics.  Not for 
the faint of heart.

Question 3:  Any special skills?
Well, I would think that if you understand the above, you already know 
the answer to this.  :-)

Search around using words like quicksilver and cpu, there are a lot of 
sites that have posts and pictures on this subject.

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Re: Return to PowerPC?

[Justin The Cynical]

Mullin9 wrote:

>> I don't believe you could readily adapt Apple's firmware to a PS3. I
>> don't see much point - OS X on PPC is dead, anyway.
>>
>> And finally, Cell isn't /that/ quick - SP-to-RAM access is dismal, in
>> particular - & OS X couldn't use the SPs anyway.
>>
> 
> Some one did it, it is on youtube
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cEkebFzlgQ


Incorrect.  That video shows someone running OS 10 in some kind of 
emulator under Linux on the PS3.

Big difference between the two.  :-)

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Re: lba48 Support in a Yikes!?

[Justin The Cynical]

insightinmind wrote:

*snip*

> Am I missing something? Is "_"_"_lba-48"_property to be typed with  
> all the quotes?

That's how I read it...

nvedit
dev_hd
dev_..
" " " lba-48" property
device-end

Will this work on a Yikes?  That I don't know.  Try it and let us know.  :)

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Re: This too is most helpful, thanks for helping me evaluate which UPS for my office

[Justin The Cynical]

Clark Martin wrote:
> Bruce Johnson wrote:
>> On Apr 29, 2009, at 6:58 PM, Paul wrote:
>>
>>> .I had been reading about how UPS's in general don't provide
>>> very good quality power in a blackout,
>> That's a very odd statement to make, since when running off of battery  
>> UPS'es are providing as clean a power as you can get.
> 
> If you are talking about a true UPS which outputs a sine wave that is 
> true.  Most UPSes produce what is called a modified sine wave and it is 
> about as ugly  as power gets.

Splitting hairs a bit, but the term 'true UPS' (aka online UPS) refers 
to how the power circuit is set up 
(http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/ext/ups/typesOnLine-c.html), not the 
power output.  I have a pair of APC SmartUPS units (1400 and a 1000) 
that are not 'true UPS' units (they are line interactive) that output a 
true sine wave, not the modified variety.  A 'true UPS' /could/ output a 
modified wave, but IMO, it's unlikely that the manufacture of the unit 
would skimp on this due to the overall higher cost of this design.

Visual aid!

http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/power/Belkin_F6C1500TWRK_UPS_6.html

I ran into this one when I was looking up info on the Belkin 1500VA I 
had just bought (was an emergency purchase, couldn't afford an APC at 
the time).

Covering another post in the thread regarding APC units...

Per APC 
(http://www.apc.com/solutions/display.cfm?id=0D72DB57-8963-47DA-9ADC4EB3FD07511D):

"APC's Back-UPS®, Back-UPS Office®, Back-UPS Pro®, and PowerCell® all 
output a "stepped-approximated" sine wave when the unit is On Battery. 
While this kind of waveform is ideal for computers and computer-related 
equipment, it may not be compatible for other types of loads like motor 
loads. If you are using non-computer loads with one of the 
above-mentioned UPSs, consult the manufacturer's specifications to 
determine if the equipment can run off of a "stepped wave". If it can't, 
then it will require a UPS that outputs a pure sine wave when On 
Battery. APC UPS models that do output a Pure Sine Wave include: 
Smart-UPS®, Matrix-UPS®, and the Symmetra® Power Array®."

This is why I sprung for some used SmartUPS units, I wanted real sine 
wave output.

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Re: G4 DA wireless woes

[Justin The Cynical]

Dana Collins wrote:

*snip*

> On first boot of the DA's newly installed OS, Airport immediately
> recognized the ESSID of the router, and let me easily plug in the WEP
> password, set up a keychain, and launched connection with no problem -
> signal is clear as a bell. The Airport app shows that the unit is
> online for the network, and TCP/IP (set to Airport connection)
> generates an apparently good IP address (using DHCP-its a 169. series

*snip*

> Any thoughts? Should I do a manual IP configuration?
> Thanks for any input, sorry for the long-ish read.

No apologies needed, the amount of info you provided was very good.

As Dan stated, the 169.x IP range is bad.  From your description, this 
sounds a lot like an encryption key problem.  In my experience, even if 
the wifi client has associated with the access point, it doesn't mean 
that the two are talking to each other.

Easiest thing to try first is to statically assign an IP to the DA. 
This should help rule out a DHCP issue (which I have run into with OS 9).

If the static IP assignment doesn't help, next thing I would try is to 
disable the encryption on the Actiontec and see if the DA and the 
Actiontec can talk to each other.  Or check any logs that may be 
viewable in the Actiontec itself, there might be some clues in there as 
well.

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Re: Powermac G4 dual 500MHZ v. G4 single 533MHZ

[Justin The Cynical]

Mullin9 wrote:

> the Second CPU will double the speed of your Mac,

Incorrect.

A second CPU does not 'double the speed' of any machine.

Per http://www.devx.com/go-parallel/Article/27399:

"With current dual processor arrangements single threaded apps are 
expected to see a 10% increase in performance whereas multi threaded 
apps are expected to perform better by at least 40-80% over a 
uni-processor configuration for a majority of applications."

This assumes that the apps that send a thread over to a CPU are able to 
access the needed data without wait (think disk I/O).


> but the slower Frontside Bus (100 MHz vs 133MHz) is the slower
> bottleneck, your data will have to squeeze through.

Yes, the FSB is a bottleneck, but the difference between 133 and 100 is 
not that great, nor would be the performance increase.  Sure, the RAM 
bus is 33% faster, but the PCI bus isn't any faster.


> another help would be a APG video card with 128 / 256 MB VRAM. more
> VRAM is faster.

Not always, and generally only when playing 3D games.  The card slot is 
still stuck at the same speed as the original card when upgrading.  Any 
acceleration functions on the video card chipset, or the chipset being 
faster all together, go more toward speeding up the graphics subsystem 
than adding more RAM to the video card.

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Re: DA 533 reporting as 466?

[Justin The Cynical]

Larry Stotler wrote:
> On Dec 9, 11:19 am, Dan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> You just put this in?
> 
> No, I got it that way.  I took the heatsink off and it says it is a
> 533, but when I run it it shows as a 466.
> 
>> Did you reboot the power manager?  (aka, press the CUDA button ONCE).
> 
> Tried that with no luck.  I don't know much about the machine.  I
> picked it and a g4/400 sawtooth up for $40 with no drives or ram a
> couple of months ago, and haven't had time to really mess with them.
> 
> I guess I could remove the pram battery and unhook it and see what
> happens

Won't do any good if it's in a sawtooth.

The DA's have a memory bus speed of 133, the sawtooth is 100.

The 533 CPU's have a multiplier of 4, which means a slower clock speed 
when placed in a machine with a speed of 100 (sawtooth, mystic, gige).

If you are very handy with a soldering iron, you might be able to speed 
it up by adjusting the resistors on the CPU card and changing the 
multiplier (See http://powermac-g4.com/g4digitalaudioclockup.html for info).

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Re: Need new external HDD's - should i buy RAID units???

[Justin The Cynical]

Dan wrote:

*snip*

>> Should I buy RAID1 units?
> 
> Personally, I'm not fond of using RAID boxes for backup.  As I 
> mentioned in another post, RAID is Fragile.  Too many things can go 
> wrong with it.  IMO, it's better to get normal sturdy drive/boxes 
> that won't mind being lugged about.

Agreed, in a way.

RAID is NOT a backup solution.  It never was designed to be that, and 
shouldn't be used as such.  RAID is a hedge against loosing your data 
when a drive fails.  It will not work against accidentally deleting 
files or having a piece of software go rouge and start writing the 
binary equivalent of off colour jokes in Polish on the drive.


>> "hardware" based RAID; this is preferred over software RAID?
> 
> Hardware-based is better, either in the controller in your Mac or in 
> the controller in the box.
> 
> Software-based RAID is... a waste of your Mac's CPU time and i/o bandwidth.

I would disagree a bit.  Most hardware has enough spare CPU cycles to 
deal with a software RAID setup (many CPU's on a RAID card are 200 Mhz 
or so in speed).

Besides, what is one going to do when that RAID card fails?  Don't 
forget that most, if not all, hardware RAID cards use a format for 
storing the data (one can not just drop in a drive from the array in 
another machine had have it be readable) that is specific to the 
manufacturer, if not the card and/or firmware revision.

Replace it with the same model:  Might be possible as the card might be 
discontinued by then.

If replacement is possible, hope that the firmware on the replacement 
card is compatible with the old card and it's format.

If replacement with the same card is not an option, one can try a card 
from the same manufacturer that is as close as possible to the original 
card, and hope that it can read the format of the drives.

Yes, the chances of this are not high, but they are there.  And remember 
that hardware will always choose the worst time to break down (I think 
they are in league with Mr. Murphy and his damned laws).

Personally, I would rather use software RAID.  If Something Bad(tm) 
happens, all one generally needs to do is reinstall the OS and the RAID 
is back up.


>> I never seem to hear of any home users using RAID1 for their back 
>> up; what's the reason for this; doesn't a RAID1 unit constantly 
>> update your backup over two drives as you are using the computer?
> 
> Yes.  It immediately copies your errors from your main drive to the 
> hot backup.  Makes the backup useless for normal file recovery.

*nods in agreement*

RAID is not a backup solution, it is a data redundancy solution in case 
of drive failure.  If something starts writing random data/garbage to 
the primary drive through the normal API's, the RAID system is going to 
do what it's supposed to do:  Copy that data to the secondary drive(s) 
in the array.  It can't tell what is Good Data vs Bad Data, it just sees 
a change and duplicates it on the rest of the drives in the array.

*snip*

> Note that there is no such fast update for RAID1.  Because it is 
> block-level, it will have to re-write the whole drive every time you 
> reconnect it.  Some RAID hardware is a smart enough to read both 
> drives and compare the data and only write what's needed... but 
> still, it requires reading EVERY block on both the drives...
*snip*

I can add confirmation from personal experience on this.

At work, we have a Dell PERC/6 RAID card (not my choice) running a RAID 
1 using 78 gig 15K SAS drives.

If I was to pull one of the drives in the array and reinsert it (same 
drive mind you, not a new one), it will take a few hours for it to run 
it's consistency checks and rebuild (even for a small change).  I could 
adjust the amount of CU time used for this process, but it would 
severely slowdown the disk I/O of the system while this was happening.

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Re: GeForce FX5200 In Sawtooth

[Justin The Cynical]

Kris Tilford wrote:
> On Oct 19, 2008, at 6:03 PM, Ross wrote:
> 
>> learn how to take a proper picture with your camera...
> 
> Look for the "Macro" button when you're taking close-ups.
> 
> I think the odds are greater that the AGP slot is bad, rather than the  
> card is bad. Try to borrow a known good card, or try your "correctly  
> modified" card in another Mac with a known good slot.

Actually, I don't think this is the case.

The NVidia card is keyed for a 1.5V slot.

The sawtooth is a 3.3v slot.

Also, even though I can't seem to find it now, I believe that the NVidia 
card will only go down to 4x.

I don't think it's going to work in a sawtooth.  I have one of these 
cards, and I have done the mod for my old DA, but everything I can find 
now, and recall finding, says that these cards will work in a minimum of 
a DA (4x slot) and up.

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